Great video, definitely was the switch that had the issue on ours as well. I dismantled an old plug and used the brass lead, soldered it to the worn out side, screwed it on with a self tapping screw, and re-attached. Of course the plastic housing had to have some modifications, nothing a zip tie won't put back to normal. TH-cam for the win again!
Helpful video to get at what the problem was with our powerhead. Same issue with one worn down copper contact point. I had a small, uninsulated terminal ring that I trimmed down to fit over the piece of copper plating that had worn down. Loop fit right over plastic rivet and angle of the portion that connects to a wire was the right angle to make contact with the bell on the switch when it is activated. Soldered the ring right over the copper plate. Will have to see how long it lasts.
Excellent guide, I found a similar solution following the idea you show here. In my case, I just uncoupled the copper connector, removed the solder, reversed the connector, re-soldered the wire on the worn portion of the copper connector, and reattached the connector by bending the long tip of the end of the copper connector where the wire was before to simulate the contact that connects to the bell of the switch.. and work it!... thanks a lot for you guide!
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to post your fix here! The more options we have here the better it is for the people having this issue. Thank you and I'm glad you fixed it
Add another voice to the "always on" chorus. The motor starts as soon as I plug it in. I've opened it up and discovered that the copper tangs of the switch have nearly disappeared. I'm going to try your fix, I think there's enough of one tang to make contact. Thanks for the video and confidence ! :)
Hello Dave Phillips, you said that the contacts were worn. Wouldn't worn contacts cause it to NOT turn on? If your problem is the motor always staying on, I think that would point to a mechanical problem of the rod that pushes on the switch being stuck, keeping the switch on. Remember that the paddle that you push on to turn the motor on is a separate piece from the rod. That paddle can return back to the off position independently from the rod. If the rod gets jammed with debris or whatever, then it is possible that the rid would not return to the off position and it'd keep the switch contacts engaged, right? Is that a possibility?
@@planesimple8514 Hey, thanks for the reply ! Alas, no, debris isn't the problem. The biggest issue I have now is that little copper cap on the end of the internal switch post. Yours seems to have been no problem to re-attach but mine just falls off the switch stem. I did figure out that there's a correct way to fit it but it's not fitting firmly and tends to fall out anyway. That cap was simply laying on the remaining contact surfaces, with enough contact to complete the circuit, thus bringing the unit into its On state all the time. I've got as far as you got, but that little cap is frustrating my attempts to repair the unit. I'll keep hacking it, I'll let you know how I fare. :)
Hello Jossiani. Of course that is not safe. Replace that mode switch or replace the oven. As a temporary patch, you could add an external timer switch to the outlet where you plug in the oven, that way you can just turn a knob to select a number of minutes and it will only run for that time and then shut the oven off. The downside is that you are relying of that external switch for safety, it'll provably cost more than the actual oven switch, but at least it is a plug and play solution that does not involve tearing into the oven. Good luck and be safe, don't burn down your kitchen.
@@planesimple8514 Thank you for responding. I appreciate. However, I am even more confused as it is not an oven I am talking about but a Ninja blender that I used to plug in and then push on the upper switch on on top of the motor. Should I just thraw/recycle it away. on trash day?.. seriously thinking about doing just that as repair seems more expensive than buying a new one.
Oh my Lord...!!! LOL... 😂 Earlier I was replying to another comment from another one of my videos which IS about a switch in an oven. When I replied to your message I got it confused and replied to you as if you were talking about the oven video. My apologies. I didn't mean to confuse you.
I wouldn't throw it away yet. I would at least open it up and see if there is anything obvious and simple that could be fixed without too much trouble. If it's already broken what's the worst that could happen? If it can't be easily fixed, then you buy another one. I didn't have any luck finding a new replacement switch for mine, that's why I repaired the existing switch, but maybe you'll have better luck and won't need a switch. Maybe a small piece of something got in and jammed the rod that pushes on the switch and by just taking it apart it will dislodge and strat working again. Only one way to find out... Open it up. Good luck.
Great video, definitely was the switch that had the issue on ours as well. I dismantled an old plug and used the brass lead, soldered it to the worn out side, screwed it on with a self tapping screw, and re-attached. Of course the plastic housing had to have some modifications, nothing a zip tie won't put back to normal. TH-cam for the win again!
thank you. I followed your instructions and was able to fix my mom's ninja processor.
Helpful video to get at what the problem was with our powerhead. Same issue with one worn down copper contact point. I had a small, uninsulated terminal ring that I trimmed down to fit over the piece of copper plating that had worn down. Loop fit right over plastic rivet and angle of the portion that connects to a wire was the right angle to make contact with the bell on the switch when it is activated. Soldered the ring right over the copper plate. Will have to see how long it lasts.
Cool. I'm glad you got it to work and we're able to extend it's useful life.
Excellent video, you have just saved me $50 from buying a new one! Thank you!
I'm glad to hear that.
Thank you for taking the time to write in and letting me know.
Excellent guide, I found a similar solution following the idea you show here. In my case, I just uncoupled the copper connector, removed the solder, reversed the connector, re-soldered the wire on the worn portion of the copper connector, and reattached the connector by bending the long tip of the end of the copper connector where the wire was before to simulate the contact that connects to the bell of the switch.. and work it!... thanks a lot for you guide!
Awesome!
Thank you for taking the time to post your fix here!
The more options we have here the better it is for the people having this issue.
Thank you and I'm glad you fixed it
Excellent. Helpful video. Thank you!
Thank you very much storm brooks.
I appreciate the positive feedback.
Saved me some money, thanks for this video
I'm glad to hear that. Thank you for taking the time to write in.
Could have cut a new lug using flat copper sheet and put self taping screw to hold lug after soldering. Great video.
Also another good suggestion.
Thank you.
Add another voice to the "always on" chorus. The motor starts as soon as I plug it in. I've opened it up and discovered that the copper tangs of the switch have nearly disappeared. I'm going to try your fix, I think there's enough of one tang to make contact. Thanks for the video and confidence ! :)
Hello Dave Phillips, you said that the contacts were worn. Wouldn't worn contacts cause it to NOT turn on? If your problem is the motor always staying on, I think that would point to a mechanical problem of the rod that pushes on the switch being stuck, keeping the switch on.
Remember that the paddle that you push on to turn the motor on is a separate piece from the rod. That paddle can return back to the off position independently from the rod. If the rod gets jammed with debris or whatever, then it is possible that the rid would not return to the off position and it'd keep the switch contacts engaged, right?
Is that a possibility?
@@planesimple8514 Hey, thanks for the reply ! Alas, no, debris isn't the problem. The biggest issue I have now is that little copper cap on the end of the internal switch post. Yours seems to have been no problem to re-attach but mine just falls off the switch stem. I did figure out that there's a correct way to fit it but it's not fitting firmly and tends to fall out anyway. That cap was simply laying on the remaining contact surfaces, with enough contact to complete the circuit, thus bringing the unit into its On state all the time. I've got as far as you got, but that little cap is frustrating my attempts to repair the unit. I'll keep hacking it, I'll let you know how I fare. :)
Oh, wow, that's a completely different failure.
Thank you for sharing your findings.
Yes, share your final fix.
Thank you.
I cannot get the lid back on for the life of me. Any time I do, the button lever thing is jammed on Something, but I can't tell what it's stuck on
We get it.... the switch activates the machine !! Holy crap can you say it more times ???????
Sure! As you wish...
Follow along:
The switch... activates....the machine...
Happy now? 🤪
I committed suicide 80 times listening to him explain how switches work
Wow...!! You'd make a cat envious with that many lives!
Mine runs very slow! then gets hot then shuts off!!!
mine just started to have constant stuck ON issue, seems switch is getting stuck, going to try lubricant to start
Good luck, I hope you get it fixed.
Mine turns on as soon as I plug it in, and stays on. I do not think it is safe... what do you think?
Hello Jossiani. Of course that is not safe. Replace that mode switch or replace the oven. As a temporary patch, you could add an external timer switch to the outlet where you plug in the oven, that way you can just turn a knob to select a number of minutes and it will only run for that time and then shut the oven off. The downside is that you are relying of that external switch for safety, it'll provably cost more than the actual oven switch, but at least it is a plug and play solution that does not involve tearing into the oven.
Good luck and be safe, don't burn down your kitchen.
@@planesimple8514 Thank you for responding. I appreciate.
However, I am even more confused as it is not an oven I am talking about but a Ninja blender that I used to plug in and then push on the upper switch on on top of the motor.
Should I just thraw/recycle it away. on trash day?.. seriously thinking about doing just that as repair seems more expensive than buying a new one.
Oh my Lord...!!! LOL... 😂
Earlier I was replying to another comment from another one of my videos which IS about a switch in an oven. When I replied to your message I got it confused and replied to you as if you were talking about the oven video.
My apologies. I didn't mean to confuse you.
@@planesimple8514 no problem I understand... so should I just trash/recycle the whole ninja because of my problem?
I wouldn't throw it away yet. I would at least open it up and see if there is anything obvious and simple that could be fixed without too much trouble. If it's already broken what's the worst that could happen? If it can't be easily fixed, then you buy another one.
I didn't have any luck finding a new replacement switch for mine, that's why I repaired the existing switch, but maybe you'll have better luck and won't need a switch. Maybe a small piece of something got in and jammed the rod that pushes on the switch and by just taking it apart it will dislodge and strat working again. Only one way to find out... Open it up.
Good luck.
Takes way to long to get to the issue
Hello roygallop, thank you for the feedback.