It's a beautiful moment when Joony shows up, which is a name reference from my favorite backyard chipmunk channel. There exists a relationship clearly, but it's great fun, isn't it?
For the side panels you mentioned not having clamps long enough. I’ve used ratchet straps before for a similar situation with no problem. Just a handy tip for someone who might have some laying around. BTW if you’re worried about finish I used some cheap moving blankets to protect the piece. Happy making everyone!
Also, instead of marine plywood you could always just fiberglass regular wood, and that should be waterproof as well. I kind of stumbled upon your channel so I don’t know if you’ve fiberglassed before but might be a great way to learn/teach a new skill.
I just want to say how much I appreciate that the native advertisement for the video sponsor was relevant to the main video and instead of distracting from the content actually added to it. Bravo.
Finished mytub. Actually a Japanese soaking tub. 6 2x6’s high like theirs, 36” square and i used regular hot tub pump and heater. I had a nice piece of black walnut to used it to make a nice “caprail” to finish off the top.
I once built a hot tub from pallets and a washing machine pump, with a copper coil going into a barrel with a fire in it. Took all day to heat up, but it was awesome.
I was going to make a silly comment regarding the present cost of cedar, but when I added up an approximate cost, it actually seems fairly reasonable considering the cost of real hot tubs and the annual service costs needed to keep them functioning year after year. You could possibly repurpose this where a hot tub is pretty much garbage in the end. Great video!
I made several hot tubs using 1" marine grade plywood. I glued (from the inside using stainless steel screws) and glued 4 levels of 2 X 6's horizontally around the plywood to keep the plywood from bowing. I also screwed and glued triangular vertical wood pieces in the inside of each corner for extra strength. I then painted the inside of the tub with epoxy paint. Worked great.
@@wiktorszymczak4760 Well, some Americans may love it because it can have an attractive-to-them natural color, which is a reason any people group might choose to use one wood over another. As for the 6x6 being cedar as well, well, perhaps they already had it around from another project, or had a use for it afterwards. Also -- cedar is a good bit more sustainable than some other woods used for building. So...reasons?
For some reason this screams to me steampunk jacuzzi!!!! Love to see all the natural copper fittings and all that in a steampunk style really make that thing unique and special.
@@the_original_skytiger there's a difference between using them in your garden and soaking it in water and then soaking yourself in that same water. they probably haven't tested what happens if you use it for a hot tub.
On @ijessup on insta she befriends every creature at makers ranch except the roadrunner 😍 Not quite sure which disney princess she is, which one renovated a poop house? Snow White maybe?
Put a double layer of fiberglass over the entire surface, inside and out. You can bond it with epoxy, urethane or a variety of other products. That's how they waterproof cedar strip kayaks and canoes. No leaks, and it significantly increases the strength of the joints.
@@rubenandrethorseth6265 No. Fiberglass is what most commercial hot tubs are made out of. Usually the resin gives off a lot of fumes during the fabrication process, but once it's cured, it's physically stable against heat and mechanical stress, and chemically inert unless you expose it to things like acetone or MEK or other strong solvents.
Yeah, it would be much cheaper to do this with 1X6 cedar and flex seal, otherwise with the same overlap process. Much lighter weight. I would have made it shorter but wider too, as I doubt you will be lying out full length very much and less surface area means better heat retention. Japanese homes have something like this but without the double layers and much wider boards. They seem to have sorted out preventing leaks and handling all that water pressure.
yes but hard to do with a limited tool set and lumber with knots. getting all clear cedar would have more than doubled the price. also there are videos out there on the hard way and even kits to make them. I wanted to show an easier way that is more forgiving.
I’d be interested is seeing a follow up video a year later and how it’s doing after the wood sits through a winter or two. Cool project with very few tools, I like it!
Post Pandemic, maybe lumber gets cheaper. But Cedar is almost never cheap. Between that and the flex seal, you are probably better off just buying a hot tub if you add in the man hours and tools necessary to do this.
Yeah, but you don't have the satisfaction of sitting in your own one-off, hand-made, cedar hottub that you made yourself. It's about the journey man...
Cedar boats are built this way.. a tongue and groove joint tightly fitted would self seal when wet. personally I don't like this cedar hot tub build. The way it's all sealed up it could be made out of any lumber (although the pine or whatever wouldn't hold up as well being constantly wet).
@@seeburgm100a Also, the grain is horizontal and will trap water longer... I agree the build is lacking is technical knowledge. Lots of product placement.
You can build this out of plywood, but you would need to frame it with dimensional lumber in order for it to withstand the outward push of the water. Polyamide Epoxy will seal it perfectly. It comes in a variety of colors (including clear) and it is widely used in plywood aquariums. It would certainly be cheaper to build with plywood.
All you need is one layer of cedar. Then, line the interior with a thin layer of fiberglass and clear epoxy to permanently seal the wood. Sand it to a perfectly smooth surface. This is how you make cedar canoes that will actually last for decades. Any other way, and the wood will eventually rot.. Especially if you keep water in the tub, and use Chlorine or Bromine for treatment, as those chemicals break down wood fibers over time.
@@mikethelma ...UV adds to the disinfecting, but isn't be used alone. Some kind of disinfecting chemical needs to be used, like Bromine or Chlorine. There is a Silver system you can use too.
7:35 The banding that they recommended is needed. You filled it with water and tested it for a few days but the outward pushing force is constant and steady. Each time someone gets in or moves around the pressure is increased. The deterioration will take months maybe years but the good news is that it will happen slowly. You may be able to add the bands after the fact to cinch it up.
Banding makes sense on a round tube, just the way you say, but banding isn't going to help with square tube because it can only press on the 4 corners and that is where the screws are anyway.
Yes, you can use any wood that will hold the weight of the water. No flex seal needed. Wood glue (TB3) and screws to hold it together. Then, coat the entire inside with commercial grade epoxy. Stone Coat sells it retail and theirs is good up to 600° with a uv inhibitor included.
Did something similar years back, disguised it as a very large storage box on my patio, HOA still hasn't figured it out muhah (no hot tubs in the bylaws)..
@@thomasr1051 Of course, properties with an active HOA tend to hold or increase their value significantly more than ones in unregulated areas. No one wants to buy a house next to a chop shop or someone raising pigs in their front yard. You only hear about the 1% horror stories on here cause it's what gets the views, the other 99% of HOAs are great. You have just as much say in how it's run as your neighbors do, just participate. ps. the hot tub rule makes sense for my area, long story.
@@deaftone311 I'm glad I asked. I definitely want to stay more open to it but at the same time I want to own a property and be free to do as I see fit. While still looking out for neighbors and what they want to be around
Nice build. You should do a small test version without the flex seal. There are boats that don't use any sealant at all. I believe the water swells the wood and seals all of the boards. And I'm surprised you didn't offset the boards to have a lap/box joint on the corners, this would give your corners much more strength and allow you to get a fixing in 2 directions. It's a simple design but looks and seems to work great 👍
I would probably frame the tub with something much cheaper like Douglas fir, insulate with insulating board, and then sheath the entire box with cheaper 6 ft cedar fence board. It would look just the same or even better at less than half the cost.
Great project. Back in my boat building days we used a process called corking between the planks. Basically hammering twine between the boards and when the timber expands it makes it water tight. Could work for this too who knows 👍
We mill full dimension Eastern Red Cedar that would work awesome for a project like this. Kinta Sawmill at Kinta Oklahoma. 2"x6"x8' are standard size boards we mill every day.
Costs are secondary , IF your JOY of buildng your own , and its LOT OF FUN with your best mates , NO money can equal that . U have done a wonderful job , Mate . Love you brother , hope you were some where around the corner . Cheers Buddy.
Pro tip, When using a caulking gun pop the release lever slightly after each use and it will stop the continuous flow of fluid out of the nozzle. Nice project!
The old school ones with the notches on the rod and lever on the back are around $2, while the dripless ones are like $9. The inconvenience of the older ones isn't worth the $7 savings. Treat yourself to an upgrade. You won't look back 😁
@@pagliaccisghost269 When I think "hot tub" I think "solar". It should not be tough to build a solar furnace to heat up a flow of water to a nice toasty temperature.
Im building one right now on this same design. With the rise in lumber prices have over $600.00 in cedar alone and could not get the finished wood in my area. Had to use rough sawn from H.D. Having to cut the rough off with a table saw and sand smooth at sealing surfaces. Leaving the rough side out for a rustic look. EVEN MORE! Im building a sunroom addition. I framed the floor to allow the tub to recess 12” below the finished floor on a concrete slab i made. Im using a 220v hot tub heater and pump and building it into a step. Its really intended as a soaking tub.
I would highly suggest to coat the entire tub inside out and bottom in 4-6 coats of a marine grade polyurethane. This would probably dramatically increase the lifespan from rot and the constant expansion and contraction of the wood that's being directly exposed to the elements and water. Like Minwax Helmsman spar urethane
I don't know how long you intend this tub to last, or what your weather exposure is where you live, but since you spent a ton on cedar, you might drain it and let it dry completely, then coat the insides with thinned epoxy. This will accomplish two things: 1) Epoxy is waterPROOF, not merely water resistant. Thinned epoxy will saturate into the fibers and not just seal the surface. It will make the wood sort of like a plastic laminate. 2) Raw cedar will soon begin to split and you may get long, sharp "bayonets" that can be very annoying. The boards you used are "plane sawn" not "vertical grain", so they will cup and produce the sharpies. The epoxy will greatly reduce that occurrence. You can leave the outside bare and it will naturally weather to a nice gray, but you could also seal it with a marine/spar urethane for a deep golden finish. Make sure it is UV rated. Nice job.
@@johnymst I think it will. The wood will "take up" water and swell the fibers shut, just like the Vikings boats and ships - which would leak horribly until they swelled. To me, it looks like he has enough fasteners, driven deep enough to hold the corners together. Soon, though, all that silicone will be a problem as the wood sheds it into the water and it clogs the drain. That stuff is horrible for staying put. Should have used a polymer caulk.
@@alexandreguillaume6066 Thinned epoxy does not have a plastic coated feeling. It soaks into the wood and seals it below the surface. It's appearance is like a clear varnish. Multiple coats will provide an attractive waterproof seal that builds up to a smooth touch.
Wow, that was amazing. I guess it goes to show how well the Flex Seal product works. It's going to be interesting to see how long term this construction is!
@@porsche911c if someone is giving them to you, that's great. You can get long pipe clamps from Harbor Frieght for not a lot of money. You just supply the 3/4" NPT pipe in whatever length you need.
I dint see anything on the material safety data sheet that was alarming but I am not an expert. if I built another one I would use just silicone though.
So how does the tub cope with wood movement? The bottom panel will surely expand across its width, possibly > 1% overall, while the end panels will stay more or less the same length across - likely to result in leakage through corners of the construction. I'd be interested to know what did in fact happen over time ..
Das pfuschen ist aber typisch für Amerikaner , es hätte alles erst mal durch die Dickte und Abrichte. Ich will gar nicht wissen wieviel das Holz gekostet hatte und wird nach 2-3 Jahren auf dem Müll landen...
@@dragonerregimentnr.5788 Source text Das pfuschen ist aber typisch für Amerikaner , es hätte alles erst mal durch die Dickte und Abrichte. Ich will gar nicht wissen wieviel das Holz gekostet hatte und wird nach 2-3 Jahren auf dem Müll landen... Translation results FROM GERMAN: The messing around is typical for Americans, everything would have to be done through fatigue and training. I don't even want to know how much the wood cost and will end up in the garbage after 2-3 years ...
@@HomeMadeModern in a hotel????? that's just wrong on so many levels. You can not adequately sanitize a wood hot tub to meet public standards. No wood hot tub should ever be used outside of a home/family situation.
Love it. I did a similar one out of marine ply for my container home, did 3 layers and it still leaked in the corners ended up putting lots of clear silicone in the corners to fix it, kinda similar to yours. Respect from NZ
@Missagan Does marine ply really have that? I know pier lumber uses CZA(Copper Zinc Arsenate) but marine ply? You thinking of PWF?(Permanent Wood Foundation/pressure treated ply) Most vendors in the USA won't sell cza treated stuff to non-contractors afaik. I don't think I'd want to soak in a plywood tub regardless though.
It won't. First he didn't turn the boards correctly and secondly he didn't seal any of the wood, so it will warp over time breaking all connections and also rot over time. He spent a lot of money on a long term fail.
@@tigersunruss So how do cedar/redwood hot tubs survive for many many years? Thats me sayin you don't know what you're talking about. Just looking out the back door I can see cedar/redwood decks and fences for miles. Those are lasting a long time.
@@McClimber234 ya, probably won’t rot because cedar is great that way. Most wood hot tubs are made with clear straight grain material because the knots will pass water directly through. Certainly won’t rot but the difference in moisture between the inside, middle, and outside of the tub is going to cause some wild warpage over not so much time, and that could easily cause total failure of the joints. This is one of those things where you can build whatever you want at your own skill level and equipment, but you can’t expect the same results the pros get.
Was that wood pre-treated for waterproofing? Also I'm a beginner woodworker and I was advised that pre-drilling pilot holes is a good thing to do so you don't split the wood on the other side. It looked like you weren't. Does it only apply to larger pieces like you were using?
Thanks for the tutorial! I made one this past weekend thanks to this video :D I didn't have this type of wood but I found some wooden palettes that did the job just fine. I also didn't have all that sealant you used so I went with a craft glue (Elmer's) and it seems to be holding pretty well. I also ran out of screws halfway through (I used drywall screws since the wood was dry and acted as a "wall" for the tub, hence the name "drywall") so started using an assortment of nails I had acquired over the years. We also don't have running water up here (we are up here in the Canadian wilderness in a cabin) so I just built it next to a well so we can fill it with a bucket. All in all, really fun project. THanks again!
I see this was built about 3 years ago... how is it holding up? Does it leak? Thinking about building one as a tub inside an open shower. Building a Barndo.
The steel bands keep it from swelling up and apart. It's not to keep dry wood tight. The cedar should get saturated and swell enough against the bands to perform seal job. Get it?
There should be a small benches or seats inside at the ends so you don't end up sliding under the water and not seeing over the sides. This allows you to sit easily without having your arms over the sides to hold yourself in place. There needs to be a small steps or platform on the outside so you can climb in and out of the tub without a slip.
I think its possible on the panels but the corners between them would have needed some. sawdust mixed with water can be used and getting rid of the flex seal and only using silicone would be an improvement.
i saw a DIY using 4x4's and 1 inch rods threaded at the ends with large metal wing nuts. it used no sealant, just tightening to hold it all together. a saluspa heater unit plumbed into it for heat and circulation, seems to be working just fine for my neighbors. i'll do the same once my soft tub starts to leak.
I have a hot tub. It takes that long to heat up because you don't have a cover. You're letting the heat escape and wasting energy. A tarp would suffice while it heats up. While you build a simple cover.
"to my surprise, no leaks!". Bro you literally just layered wood on top of flex seal on top of wood on top of flex seal with extra silicone and a final dose of flex seal... Tub looks sweet, just not really surprised it didn't leak lol
Cool idea, but it raises some questions. Doesn't the inside of the wood need sealed too? Cause I have the feeling the wood is going to become saturated with cycles of hot/cold moisture and begin warping. Then threes the matter of the wood growing mold. More flex seal.
Pretty neat idea. So how is it holding up? Have you considered a small 5 gallon electric water heater and pump as a heating source? You could dial in the temperature and forget having to monitor it - use a thermostat to control the pump.
A better material to seal between the layers would be a product like red guard that is used in showers and bathrooms and is a waterproofing membrane and crack isolation barrier typically used under tile but you can also get the product in a clear version instead of the red but it’s the same stuff. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for around $150 and it would do more tubs than you want with 2-3 coats between the layers. It’s applied with a paint roller and dries in about 15 min depending upon weather. That would be a much better and more cost effective product to use instead of Flexseal. This is a fantastic design but I also think I would use a shiplap or half lap joint on the edges of the boards and if you did that you do not need any sealer at all. The cedar swell with humidity and moisture and will seal itself within minutes, especially if each board had a half lap joint. I think I’ll go ahead and build one like that to test out but think it would be a nice improvement to your already fantastic design!! Thanks for the video, good job!
I wonder could you possibly do a thick pool liner for a small pool on the inside and lap it over the sides. I wonder if that would help give it any security and glue the liner down on the inside and outside do all the steps you've done but do that too that way if you do have any boards at wape. for anything you have extra protection. How many years does a low-end cost hot tub last. From what I'm seeing if you were to add this extra step of liner you could probably least get four or five years out of it .I would think. But it does look very beautiful
DAMN! that's got to be the first DIY project I've ever seen that cost more than a professionally made hot tub.
A professionally made wooden tub is pretty expensive
Are we going to ignore the Snow White moment, where a chipmunk just came up to her hand and said hi?
I though the same!!!!!!! 6:39 for those who missed it.
It's a beautiful moment when Joony shows up, which is a name reference from my favorite backyard chipmunk channel.
There exists a relationship clearly, but it's great fun, isn't it?
Exactly!
Thank you I was just saying the same thing.
That's Gary--or one of his ilk. (I follow Jesse on Insta.)
For the side panels you mentioned not having clamps long enough. I’ve used ratchet straps before for a similar situation with no problem. Just a handy tip for someone who might have some laying around. BTW if you’re worried about finish I used some cheap moving blankets to protect the piece. Happy making everyone!
Also, instead of marine plywood you could always just fiberglass regular wood, and that should be waterproof as well. I kind of stumbled upon your channel so I don’t know if you’ve fiberglassed before but might be a great way to learn/teach a new skill.
Pipe Clamps too could be used
I just want to say how much I appreciate that the native advertisement for the video sponsor was relevant to the main video and instead of distracting from the content actually added to it. Bravo.
how is this holding up 2 years later?
Curious about this myself
No answer means not good.
How about three years?
You could just put in a rubber liner
Rotten
Finished mytub. Actually a Japanese soaking tub. 6 2x6’s high like theirs, 36” square and i used regular hot tub pump and heater. I had a nice piece of black walnut to used it to make a nice “caprail” to finish off the top.
Can you do an update on this? would you change anything? Love the size!
I once built a hot tub from pallets and a washing machine pump, with a copper coil going into a barrel with a fire in it. Took all day to heat up, but it was awesome.
make a video :D ??
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 it was way back in college 😭
thats awesome
How's this tub holding up after 3 years and how often do you use it? Thanks for the content!
I was going to make a silly comment regarding the present cost of cedar, but when I added up an approximate cost, it actually seems fairly reasonable considering the cost of real hot tubs and the annual service costs needed to keep them functioning year after year. You could possibly repurpose this where a hot tub is pretty much garbage in the end. Great video!
I made several hot tubs using 1" marine grade plywood. I glued (from the inside using stainless steel screws) and glued 4 levels of 2 X 6's horizontally around the plywood to keep the plywood from bowing. I also screwed and glued triangular vertical wood pieces in the inside of each corner for extra strength. I then painted the inside of the tub with epoxy paint. Worked great.
Would love to see pics of it. It sounds great!
That sounds great! Do you have any plans or specifics you could share? I'd like to try that.
Plan Please!
Need something like this for disabled vet
Yeah, the inside with epoxy is probably what's making it durable. The tub from the video isn't going to last
Bro if building stuff doesn’t workout you can start a channel on how to get shredded?
Seriously ... homie is ripped !!
He's so chiseled!
Has the tannin leaked I know it can be an issue with cedar hot tubs
🤣 if the building stuff doesn’t work out. This man is brilliant, and back handed compliments aren’t too nice. But he does have a KILLER BODY BRO 🤙🏽
HonedMaleMan or HomeMadeMan ... Come on Ben or were off to Modern Builds!!!!!
This would require a second mortgage to buy that wood in Canada.
Not if you have a buddy with a saw mill
Why do america love cider so much? Even those 6 by 6 are cider. Why
@@wiktorszymczak4760 Well, some Americans may love it because it can have an attractive-to-them natural color, which is a reason any people group might choose to use one wood over another. As for the 6x6 being cedar as well, well, perhaps they already had it around from another project, or had a use for it afterwards. Also -- cedar is a good bit more sustainable than some other woods used for building. So...reasons?
@@Zzrdemon6633 How many tree hungers did this guy piss off..
@@wiktorszymczak4760 cedar is very moisture resistant. very good to use in wet places.
For some reason this screams to me steampunk jacuzzi!!!! Love to see all the natural copper fittings and all that in a steampunk style really make that thing unique and special.
Regarding big box non-cedar, thats pressure treated pine and ir has chemicals
None of which are toxic, for at least the past twenty years.
@@the_original_skytiger there's a difference between using them in your garden and soaking it in water and then soaking yourself in that same water. they probably haven't tested what happens if you use it for a hot tub.
@@sandrafrancisco These chemical were rated non-toxic to humans a long time ago. Wet or dry.
Some of those warnings were for longevity, not the first fill up
loving how many guys are drooling over Ben's muscles!
dreaming of 5:24
😂😂😂😂
Caught that too...He was humble bragging on us there
lol
🤣🤣🤣
LMFAO
What in the Disney princess? Did your sister just feed a chipmunk?
On @ijessup on insta she befriends every creature at makers ranch except the roadrunner 😍 Not quite sure which disney princess she is, which one renovated a poop house? Snow White maybe?
😁😁😁😁 best comment of the day 👌.
Looks like a peanut to me still in the shell.
Yeah it’s Gary.
Gary no. 11 I think🤔
Basically, you made a tub from clear FlexSeal adhesive with wood as the support structure?
thats a very astute way of putting it xD
Put a double layer of fiberglass over the entire surface, inside and out. You can bond it with epoxy, urethane or a variety of other products. That's how they waterproof cedar strip kayaks and canoes. No leaks, and it significantly increases the strength of the joints.
Is it toxic to have heated water ?
@@rubenandrethorseth6265 No. Fiberglass is what most commercial hot tubs are made out of. Usually the resin gives off a lot of fumes during the fabrication process, but once it's cured, it's physically stable against heat and mechanical stress, and chemically inert unless you expose it to things like acetone or MEK or other strong solvents.
I thought the point of cedar tubs was the wood swells to make it waterproof so you don’t need 2 gallons of flex seal?
Exactly. Should have looked up shiplap joint.
Yeah, it would be much cheaper to do this with 1X6 cedar and flex seal, otherwise with the same overlap process. Much lighter weight. I would have made it shorter but wider too, as I doubt you will be lying out full length very much and less surface area means better heat retention. Japanese homes have something like this but without the double layers and much wider boards. They seem to have sorted out preventing leaks and handling all that water pressure.
yes but hard to do with a limited tool set and lumber with knots. getting all clear cedar would have more than doubled the price. also there are videos out there on the hard way and even kits to make them. I wanted to show an easier way that is more forgiving.
@@HomeMadeModern totally understand- those cedar tubs are $$$!
We are loving this DIY Hot Tub Flex Machine! And those speakers are BUMPIN'! When's the party?! 😎💪
Sponsor them
Love that tannin! Its antibacterial.
Phil?
Sponsor!! Sponsor!!
All's good until you turn into the toxic avenger
I’d be interested is seeing a follow up video a year later and how it’s doing after the wood sits through a winter or two.
Cool project with very few tools, I like it!
Probably sitting in the dump after the YT video dropped.
That silicone isn't going to hold.
@@TheyForcedMyHandLE that's what I think too
@@LitoGeorge also wouldnt the tub mold and crack from the humidity
@@user-tr2dh4xx6u Not when it's dried out after use. That's why he used cedar.
My wife would absolutely love to have one of these to soak in. I'm going to bookmark this to refer to when I build one.
Western red cedar is outrageously expensive these days.
Can you do a long term update on this build? I want to build one.
Cost of lumber probably made this same price as a new hot tub. :)
Don't mention it :-)
Plus the cost of Flex Seal, that stuff ain't cheap.
This is probably more than a actual hot tub.
Post Pandemic, maybe lumber gets cheaper. But Cedar is almost never cheap. Between that and the flex seal, you are probably better off just buying a hot tub if you add in the man hours and tools necessary to do this.
Yeah, but you don't have the satisfaction of sitting in your own one-off, hand-made, cedar hottub that you made yourself. It's about the journey man...
wouldnt the wood expand itself when it gets wet, thus creating a seal?
Cedar boats are built this way.. a tongue and groove joint tightly fitted would self seal when wet. personally I don't like this cedar hot tub build. The way it's all sealed up it could be made out of any lumber (although the pine or whatever wouldn't hold up as well being constantly wet).
@@seeburgm100a feel like the seal will break when thevtree expands anyway. Unneccessary Cost
@@seeburgm100a Also, the grain is horizontal and will trap water longer... I agree the build is lacking is technical knowledge. Lots of product placement.
6:41 Best part of the entire video. Did anyone else notice that awesome moment?
definitely
You could use rigid insulation between the two walls to help keep it warmer.
How has this hot tub held up over the past 2 years? Any chance of doing a quick follow up video?
I would wonder if flex seal or epoxy release chemicals into the water when heated. 🤔
I keep thinking the same thing 🤔
You can build this out of plywood, but you would need to frame it with dimensional lumber in order for it to withstand the outward push of the water. Polyamide Epoxy will seal it perfectly. It comes in a variety of colors (including clear) and it is widely used in plywood aquariums. It would certainly be cheaper to build with plywood.
All you need is one layer of cedar. Then, line the interior with a thin layer of fiberglass and clear epoxy to permanently seal the wood. Sand it to a perfectly smooth surface. This is how you make cedar canoes that will actually last for decades. Any other way, and the wood will eventually rot.. Especially if you keep water in the tub, and use Chlorine or Bromine for treatment, as those chemicals break down wood fibers over time.
Ultraviolet treatment in-line of the recirculating pump to get around chlorine?
@@mikethelma ...UV adds to the disinfecting, but isn't be used alone. Some kind of disinfecting chemical needs to be used, like Bromine or Chlorine. There is a Silver system you can use too.
Sounds fishy. The planks in a canoe are under compression, whereas the planks of the tub are in tension. Totally different design Dude.
geezus christ. These you tube craftsmen have some incredible skill and ingenuity.
just found this channel. was very interested throughout, then the moment hit WHOA THIS MANS IS RIPPED. inspiring video all around!
6:40
"Hey did you remember my lunch?"
"I sure did, here you go"
"YES! I knew I keeps you around for a reason!"
In today's market, this cost $30,000....for the two bottom beams.
Same in Germany.
If you get the wood
Are you all being serious? those 2 beams cost around 20€ each in France
@@bernardthongvanh5613 Those are easily $150usd for an 8 foot, you sure?
@@gahbah274 yeah, apparently it's cheaper in my country (France)
7:35 The banding that they recommended is needed. You filled it with water and tested it for a few days but the outward pushing force is constant and steady. Each time someone gets in or moves around the pressure is increased. The deterioration will take months maybe years but the good news is that it will happen slowly. You may be able to add the bands after the fact to cinch it up.
Banding makes sense on a round tube, just the way you say, but banding isn't going to help with square tube because it can only press on the 4 corners and that is where the screws are anyway.
If one leaves it full of water all the time
Cool, but is flexseal safe to bathe in? What about the coat the boards have on them from the mill you're supposed to sand off before staining?
Dude is freaking JACKED!
Yes, you can use any wood that will hold the weight of the water. No flex seal needed. Wood glue (TB3) and screws to hold it together. Then, coat the entire inside with commercial grade epoxy. Stone Coat sells it retail and theirs is good up to 600° with a uv inhibitor included.
And the material cost is about the same as 3 brand new KIA's
Did something similar years back, disguised it as a very large storage box on my patio, HOA still hasn't figured it out muhah (no hot tubs in the bylaws)..
Glad you figured out a way around. Would you move into a house with an HOA again?
@@thomasr1051 Of course, properties with an active HOA tend to hold or increase their value significantly more than ones in unregulated areas. No one wants to buy a house next to a chop shop or someone raising pigs in their front yard. You only hear about the 1% horror stories on here cause it's what gets the views, the other 99% of HOAs are great. You have just as much say in how it's run as your neighbors do, just participate.
ps. the hot tub rule makes sense for my area, long story.
@@deaftone311 I'm glad I asked. I definitely want to stay more open to it but at the same time I want to own a property and be free to do as I see fit. While still looking out for neighbors and what they want to be around
@@thomasr1051 If I had to do it all over again, id have gone with one of those conversion vans or airstreams instead of buying a house.
@@deaftone311 yeah or even the tiny homes. I think home prices are making people rethink what we need to live a comfortable life
How has this lasted over the year since posting? I was curious about the expansion due to the water being absorbed.
I second this! How’s it holding up?
I like Jessie... a woman that knows power tools, willing to put in some elbow grease, and not afraid to break a nail!!!!
Nice build. You should do a small test version without the flex seal. There are boats that don't use any sealant at all. I believe the water swells the wood and seals all of the boards. And I'm surprised you didn't offset the boards to have a lap/box joint on the corners, this would give your corners much more strength and allow you to get a fixing in 2 directions. It's a simple design but looks and seems to work great 👍
I would probably frame the tub with something much cheaper like Douglas fir, insulate with insulating board, and then sheath the entire box with cheaper 6 ft cedar fence board. It would look just the same or even better at less than half the cost.
Plus you would have a removable skin and space in between in case you decided to add jets later.
Working on this project now. This was my approach so I could reuse an electric hot tub box with jets and insulation.
Great project. Back in my boat building days we used a process called corking between the planks. Basically hammering twine between the boards and when the timber expands it makes it water tight. Could work for this too who knows 👍
Great tip!
I like that idea sounds very eco and better for you and environment.
We mill full dimension Eastern Red Cedar that would work awesome for a project like this. Kinta Sawmill at Kinta Oklahoma. 2"x6"x8' are standard size boards we mill every day.
Costs are secondary , IF your JOY of buildng your own , and its LOT OF FUN with your best mates , NO money can equal that .
U have done a wonderful job , Mate . Love you brother , hope you were some where around the corner .
Cheers Buddy.
Pro tip, When using a caulking gun pop the release lever slightly after each use and it will stop the continuous flow of fluid out of the nozzle. Nice project!
I thought popping the release trigger was standard procedure.!!
ProTip: Pros use dripless caulkguns. They don't have a tab on the back to pop.
The old school ones with the notches on the rod and lever on the back are around $2, while the dripless ones are like $9.
The inconvenience of the older ones isn't worth the $7 savings. Treat yourself to an upgrade. You won't look back 😁
Cant stop the flow of fluid out of my caulk sorry
@@722Moo might wanna see a doctor about that, Sir. 😳
Wood, Flexseal, Silicone.. This combo tells me it's gonna rott quickly.
Hope you don't mind giving us an update on it after six month-one year of use.
Right?! I would have lined the inside with black rubber. It also heats the water during the day.
@@pagliaccisghost269 When I think "hot tub" I think "solar". It should not be tough to build a solar furnace to heat up a flow of water to a nice toasty temperature.
its like , "hey, I'm a boat dock with really really really old posts and piers..."
Does feel seal cause rottin
Can we get a tutorial on how you build those abs?!
good love abs
diet and exercise! :P
Im building one right now on this same design. With the rise in lumber prices have over $600.00 in cedar alone and could not get the finished wood in my area. Had to use rough sawn from H.D. Having to cut the rough off with a table saw and sand smooth at sealing surfaces. Leaving the rough side out for a rustic look. EVEN MORE! Im building a sunroom addition. I framed the floor to allow the tub to recess 12” below the finished floor on a concrete slab i made. Im using a 220v hot tub heater and pump and building it into a step. Its really intended as a soaking tub.
How is the bath tub holding now after a few years? Have leaks emerged or have you had to fix something?
I would highly suggest to coat the entire tub inside out and bottom in 4-6 coats of a marine grade polyurethane. This would probably dramatically increase the lifespan from rot and the constant expansion and contraction of the wood that's being directly exposed to the elements and water.
Like Minwax Helmsman spar urethane
It's Cedar. It's fine for a long time. Sealing it all in will make it rot faster.
@@jakegray9850 Rot requires moisture, if the wood is sealed, no moisture can get in, so no, it won't rot.
Is that safe to bathe in though?
But you wouldnt get that amazing smell of hot, wet cedar!
I don't know how long you intend this tub to last, or what your weather exposure is where you live, but since you spent a ton on cedar, you might drain it and let it dry completely, then coat the insides with thinned epoxy. This will accomplish two things: 1) Epoxy is waterPROOF, not merely water resistant. Thinned epoxy will saturate into the fibers and not just seal the surface. It will make the wood sort of like a plastic laminate. 2) Raw cedar will soon begin to split and you may get long, sharp "bayonets" that can be very annoying. The boards you used are "plane sawn" not "vertical grain", so they will cup and produce the sharpies. The epoxy will greatly reduce that occurrence.
You can leave the outside bare and it will naturally weather to a nice gray, but you could also seal it with a marine/spar urethane for a deep golden finish. Make sure it is UV rated.
Nice job.
This won't last a year as it is now
@@johnymst I think it will. The wood will "take up" water and swell the fibers shut, just like the Vikings boats and ships - which would leak horribly until they swelled. To me, it looks like he has enough fasteners, driven deep enough to hold the corners together. Soon, though, all that silicone will be a problem as the wood sheds it into the water and it clogs the drain. That stuff is horrible for staying put. Should have used a polymer caulk.
the touch of epoxy feel plastic, i am prefering wood feeling
@@alexandreguillaume6066 Thinned epoxy does not have a plastic coated feeling. It soaks into the wood and seals it below the surface. It's appearance is like a clear varnish. Multiple coats will provide an attractive waterproof seal that builds up to a smooth touch.
"Not coming out quite as hot as I wanted" Thirst Trap Ben over here will heat up the water with his body instead. 😂
lol
I would attache a pump to the hose bib drain to cycle the water through the heater and heat up the water faster. Saves money too.
@@heru-deshet359 that's what I was thinking.
@@frogsoda Great minds, lol.
The Chipmunk Inspector at 6:41 gave this job
a seal of approval. So I'm all in.
Subscribed. 👍🏾🔨
That hot tub : phenomenal... BUT THAT PEANUT THAT WAS GIVEN TO THAT CHIPMUNK!
Wow, that was amazing. I guess it goes to show how well the Flex Seal product works. It's going to be interesting to see how long term this construction is!
yes! but cedar does hold up well and we can only just caulk the cracks if seams do open up.
Good thing he had those Maker Brand clamps, too! Couldn't have done it without those.
@@porsche911c if someone is giving them to you, that's great. You can get long pipe clamps from Harbor Frieght for not a lot of money. You just supply the 3/4" NPT pipe in whatever length you need.
Good job man
But is it safe to heat the flex seal ?
I dint see anything on the material safety data sheet that was alarming but I am not an expert. if I built another one I would use just silicone though.
I'd have flared the short ends out by 15 or 20 degrees for comfy relaxation.
So how does the tub cope with wood movement? The bottom panel will surely expand across its width, possibly > 1% overall, while the end panels will stay more or less the same length across - likely to result in leakage through corners of the construction. I'd be interested to know what did in fact happen over time ..
More Sister Jesse! She’s the star! Great build as always
Next time try tongue and groove, the water makes the wood expand and become watertight. No glue or chemicals leeching into water
Exactly my thoughts, so much kess weight and silicone... cheaper too
Das pfuschen ist aber typisch für Amerikaner , es hätte alles erst mal durch die Dickte und Abrichte.
Ich will gar nicht wissen wieviel das Holz gekostet hatte und wird nach 2-3 Jahren auf dem Müll landen...
@@dragonerregimentnr.5788 ?
@@dragonerregimentnr.5788
Source text
Das pfuschen ist aber typisch für Amerikaner , es hätte alles erst mal durch die Dickte und Abrichte.
Ich will gar nicht wissen wieviel das Holz gekostet hatte und wird nach 2-3 Jahren auf dem Müll landen...
Translation results FROM GERMAN:
The messing around is typical for Americans, everything would have to be done through fatigue and training.
I don't even want to know how much the wood cost and will end up in the garbage after 2-3 years ...
@@junkmail4613 ,
Das ist Korrekt, danke für die Übersetzung 👍
Way to pimp those clamps. How long has the tub been in service? -how’s it holding up?
Those clamps are outstanding! we gave the tub to the owner of Kitchen in the Desert and he is putting it at his hotel! it has held up great
@@HomeMadeModern in a hotel????? that's just wrong on so many levels. You can not adequately sanitize a wood hot tub to meet public standards. No wood hot tub should ever be used outside of a home/family situation.
Love it. I did a similar one out of marine ply for my container home, did 3 layers and it still leaked in the corners ended up putting lots of clear silicone in the corners to fix it, kinda similar to yours. Respect from NZ
@Missagan Does marine ply really have that? I know pier lumber uses CZA(Copper Zinc Arsenate) but marine ply? You thinking of PWF?(Permanent Wood Foundation/pressure treated ply) Most vendors in the USA won't sell cza treated stuff to non-contractors afaik. I don't think I'd want to soak in a plywood tub regardless though.
I wonder if you could sandwich a 1/2" foam board between the 2x6s, It would help with strength, insulation, and probably waterproofing too.
They're called sips panels and yeah it would work well to insulate... If the top wasnt commpletely open to the air
What about just a layer of fiberglass over the wood ?
I’ve seen wood canoes built they cover them inside and out with fiberglass .. that work ??
Wouldn't it be nicer if you applied a finishing coat on the wood to clean it easier later? Like varnish, poly or epoxy?
Did you have to take out a 10 year loan, with today's lumber prices, to be able to purchase the cedar 2x6's?
Yeah my rough estimate was like $1000 of cedar at current prices.
wood prices have been crazy!!!
My thoughts exactly. I been getting pallets from a nearby tractor dealership and repurposing those.
No flex seal paid for the cedar 🤣
Smiles and then opens a new stereo system!
I'll be looking forward to a six-month or one year update on how this holds up!
It won't. First he didn't turn the boards correctly and secondly he didn't seal any of the wood, so it will warp over time breaking all connections and also rot over time. He spent a lot of money on a long term fail.
Well aren't you just a Ray of light in the world. Have you built a lot of hottubs yourself?!
@@tigersunruss So how do cedar/redwood hot tubs survive for many many years?
Thats me sayin you don't know what you're talking about.
Just looking out the back door I can see cedar/redwood decks and fences for miles. Those are lasting a long time.
@@McClimber234 ya, probably won’t rot because cedar is great that way. Most wood hot tubs are made with clear straight grain material because the knots will pass water directly through. Certainly won’t rot but the difference in moisture between the inside, middle, and outside of the tub is going to cause some wild warpage over not so much time, and that could easily cause total failure of the joints. This is one of those things where you can build whatever you want at your own skill level and equipment, but you can’t expect the same results the pros get.
Was that wood pre-treated for waterproofing?
Also I'm a beginner woodworker and I was advised that pre-drilling pilot holes is a good thing to do so you don't split the wood on the other side. It looked like you weren't. Does it only apply to larger pieces like you were using?
Did you end up using any spray foam insulation to help keep it cooler? seems like it would have been a very easy and obvious step
isn't the internal wood going to discolor and deteriorate over time?
Use yacht varnish on it.
Thanks for the tutorial! I made one this past weekend thanks to this video :D I didn't have this type of wood but I found some wooden palettes that did the job just fine. I also didn't have all that sealant you used so I went with a craft glue (Elmer's) and it seems to be holding pretty well. I also ran out of screws halfway through (I used drywall screws since the wood was dry and acted as a "wall" for the tub, hence the name "drywall") so started using an assortment of nails I had acquired over the years. We also don't have running water up here (we are up here in the Canadian wilderness in a cabin) so I just built it next to a well so we can fill it with a bucket.
All in all, really fun project. THanks again!
Dude... you’re shredded! Oh and nice hot tub.
thank you
I see this was built about 3 years ago... how is it holding up? Does it leak? Thinking about building one as a tub inside an open shower. Building a Barndo.
Any problems with wood expanding/swelling and contracting due to weather (i.e., moisture/humidity)?
Liquid clear Flex Seal? Can you use that on your hair? Asking for a friend :)
There is a Flex Seal version for larger primates...
Yes please.
pink concrete tub collab next!
Would be interesting to build one like a wooden boat i.e. marine ply and epoxy.
yes! I am looking into it!
The steel bands keep it from swelling up and apart. It's not to keep dry wood tight. The cedar should get saturated and swell enough against the bands to perform seal job. Get it?
I wanted to do this with floor plywood and marine varnish. Now you tell me how to power it i might give it a try. Thx!
There should be a small benches or seats inside at the ends so you don't end up sliding under the water and not seeing over the sides. This allows you to sit easily without having your arms over the sides to hold yourself in place. There needs to be a small steps or platform on the outside so you can climb in and out of the tub without a slip.
Make it and put it in, rather than fixing permanently which makes it harder to clean
Your right, doesn't look much comfortable as it is.
Damn ben and jessica are sibs goal. Working together for a project and getting shredded and ripped at the same time
i think this would have worked without any of the sealant. the wood would swell and hold the water
I think its possible on the panels but the corners between them would have needed some. sawdust mixed with water can be used and getting rid of the flex seal and only using silicone would be an improvement.
How did the chemical treatments with long standing water effect the wood?
i saw a DIY using 4x4's and 1 inch rods threaded at the ends with large metal wing nuts. it used no sealant, just tightening to hold it all together. a saluspa heater unit plumbed into it for heat and circulation, seems to be working just fine for my neighbors. i'll do the same once my soft tub starts to leak.
Should be renamed, "How to make a waterproof wooden crate."
or maybe hot tubs should be renamed to 'waterproof fiberglass crate'?
pools should be renamed "concrete lined pond"
“DIY coffin”
I have a hot tub. It takes that long to heat up because you don't have a cover. You're letting the heat escape and wasting energy. A tarp would suffice while it heats up. While you build a simple cover.
great point! you are right!
@@HomeMadeModern float some closed cell foam on surface
Excellent point, and a great idea.
"to my surprise, no leaks!". Bro you literally just layered wood on top of flex seal on top of wood on top of flex seal with extra silicone and a final dose of flex seal... Tub looks sweet, just not really surprised it didn't leak lol
Cool idea, but it raises some questions.
Doesn't the inside of the wood need sealed too?
Cause I have the feeling the wood is going to become saturated with cycles of hot/cold moisture and begin warping.
Then threes the matter of the wood growing mold.
More flex seal.
Pretty neat idea. So how is it holding up? Have you considered a small 5 gallon electric water heater and pump as a heating source? You could dial in the temperature and forget having to monitor it - use a thermostat to control the pump.
do you have a brand you would recommend?
Who needs flex seal when he can do all the Flexing 😳😂
A better material to seal between the layers would be a product like red guard that is used in showers and bathrooms and is a waterproofing membrane and crack isolation barrier typically used under tile but you can also get the product in a clear version instead of the red but it’s the same stuff. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for around $150 and it would do more tubs than you want with 2-3 coats between the layers. It’s applied with a paint roller and dries in about 15 min depending upon weather.
That would be a much better and more cost effective product to use instead of Flexseal.
This is a fantastic design but I also think I would use a shiplap or half lap joint on the edges of the boards and if you did that you do not need any sealer at all. The cedar swell with humidity and moisture and will seal itself within minutes, especially if each board had a half lap joint. I think I’ll go ahead and build one like that to test out but think it would be a nice improvement to your already fantastic design!!
Thanks for the video, good job!
do you mean typical but transparent liquid foil? e.g. like: mastabuild.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76
Where can a guy get a 5 gallon bucket of the clear Red guard?
Lumber prices have almost double in less than a year, might want to hold off on this project in hopes that lumber prices come back to reality!
I wonder could you possibly do a thick pool liner for a small pool on the inside and lap it over the sides. I wonder if that would help give it any security and glue the liner down on the inside and outside do all the steps you've done but do that too that way if you do have any boards at wape. for anything you have extra protection. How many years does a low-end cost hot tub last. From what I'm seeing if you were to add this extra step of liner you could probably least get four or five years out of it .I would think. But it does look very beautiful
Did you have to take out a second mortgage for that lumber.