Wow a new Super Thanks record...that'll make a big difference to my earnings for today from this channel! I really appreciate the ST for the money but also the motivation!
This video is an excellent tutorial. In order to reduce the amount of work and time this takes I’ve just installed two receiver hitches and my winch can be moved easily front or back.
I solved this by putting receivers front and back and battery connections front and back - just need to get myself a big anderson connector set to make it quick to plug in. I can now which in or lower out in both directions and pull other items from either end of my rig. :-) All home built, too, 40x40x4mm winch cradle insert and 50x50x5 receivers. A bit smaller than the industry standard, but very close fitting and once bolted up tight, they work as one with no slop, play, rattles, movement, wear, noise, etc. Very sweet to see it come together - zinc plated 12.9 cap screws and button head cap screws and gloss black set it off a treat :-D Interesting video, though, for those that don't have that option. :)
@@NulodPBall I can't imagine that ever happening in my use, but off road, I suppose it could. Pretty unlikely even then though. It sticks out a lot so you wouldn't ho offroading with it installed. It'd be stored in the vehicle and deployed for use as needed. Sub ideal for offroad use. If I was building a rig for serious off road use I'd have two winches permanently installed.
@@fredio54 I'm glad it works for you. And you're right, most situations - having a second option mount point is hard to beat. I just have found that you really don't find the downside to anything until you try it. Like I watched someone learn the hard way: Never let anyone hook up to your front bumper or frame, to give you an assist when trying to unstick someone...the middle person's frame would squat under pressure until something obviously broke. The stuck persons bumper was at, or below ground level in a mud field...so if he was winchable, he just would have had to use a shovel first... but I think he should have used a shovel anyway before getting a pull.
Love the lego demonstration! A great idea! Another way to think of that is that the winch is making the line shorter. The only way to shorten it is by moving the car back.
We practiced the reverse winch on our refresher recovery weekend last week. We practiced your set up on a 15 to 20 degree smooth slope, but were a little unsure when the lines seemed to be very tight but no movement. So we tried it on a flat slope and saw the results. It appears like you say the winch has to generate a lot of force to overcome a little force to move the vehicle. We then decided to see the effect of adding an extra 2 snatch blocks in the rear set up to lessen the load. This made a significant difference and the vehicle moved a lot easier. Would be interesting to see your load examples for a set up with 2 extra snatch blocks at the rear. Reason being in real life you are more likely to be on a 20 degree uneven slope which would most probably be to much for the a winch with 2 rear snatch blocks. We also did the triple line and Spanish Burton and added extra snatch blocks to reduce winch load to pull a simulated dead load vehicle. Made a huge difference. Roughly Calculated we had a winch to load of 1 to 8 with the Spanish Burton with a couple extra snatch blocks.
Thank you very much for this informative video. I literally, completely at random, had an idea 3 days ago whether something like this would be possible and youtube gods dropped this into recommended so I did not even have to search for it. I know folks can use rear winches but that requires a ton of additional money to accomplish so using what you already have to get yourself out of a situation is awesome means of geometry and physics.
Great video! But not practical in the real world. I learnt this the hard way when I really needed to winch myself backwards up a near vertical hill, realised I didn't have enough pully blocks so I ended up running my winch rope under the vehicle, it worked and got us out of a serious situation but I bent the lip of my steel bar where the rope passes out from the fairlead to under the vehicle, not surprising due the sharp change of direction. I since repaired and reinforced it with some steel tubing to make for a nice smooth angle for the rope to slide along, it works an absolute treat and makes for easy and safe reverse winch. Also saves having to carry all those extra heavy snatch blocks and gear.
Great video. I travel solo most of the time and need to do self recovery. I have a Suzuki Grand Vitara and have been able to recover myself with a simple come a long so far. I have been thinking about an electric winch but mounting it as a portable and attaching to a 2 inch receiver front and rear on the rig. Thank you for the video.
Fantastic, My father (Ex-military) showed me this set up years ago (I've never had to use this setup but I was always equipped just in case) I guess it was a matter of be sure you can go forward and not be forced to reverse ! Great to have numbers applied to really grasp what is actually happening ! Always great videos (This is the second in a row tonight) Thanks and be safe !
I've found it easier with a 3:1 at the back. The key is shortening the distance at the back faster than the distance at the front. Fiddle block at the back would be even better!
Nice video. with all the accessories, extra line, shackles, and snatch blocks; probably could have purchased a rear winch and mounted it cheaper. It truly is a good video and a lot of time, money , energy, and thought process went into this video. I had to do a similar pull like your video in Honduras. Definitely was not as pretty. Made me come home to the United States and design a rear winch bumper for my Super Duty and Ford Raptor. Working on one for the Jeep Wrangler and Gladiator. IMPRESSED WITH THE VIDEO. GOOD JOB
Good video. Thanks. At 17:10 I can't tell where the dead end of rope is hooked. Looks like it goes between the 2 ends of tree strap and to soft shackle. Wouldn't that pinch the shackle?
Amazing video, covers everything really well. Excellent explanation, really clear. I wonder if you can do a 3:1, 4:1, etc at the rear to increase the recovery force? You'd need more hardware like snatch blocks/rings etc though.
FINALLY 😱 iv been trying to explain this for years with a diagram and nobody believes it’s possible 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Ps Excellent video well presented great models 👍🏻
To reduce winch tensions you can ad another pulley at back (3:1 or 4:1 in place to 2:1) that will reduce a lot of tension and make the overall system a 2:1 pull👍 great video!!!
Great video. It's a topic that comes up regularly, especially when questioning the practicality of a front mounted winch. It's good to see that it is possible, but it certainly takes a lot of kit, knowledge and preperation. I think it is perhaps best to consider all other options first!
@@Mudder1310 no it doesn’t…. I’ve been stuck for two days in a 4wd that had front/rear winch, anchors, the whole list, sometimes it just does matter how much gear you have. And yes, was my own fault. Got complacent, didn’t have have coffee, etc - plain simple, very avoidable
This is amazing. If I was caught (with enough rope!), I wouldn't have thought to do the double line at the back, and just ripped things off my car - Whilst making zero progress at the same time.
Hi Robert - I love your pictorial display of forces - we learn the same stuff in orthopaedic surgery for an old fashioned treatment known as traction, which involves string, pulleys, and a weight
Great video. I'm putting together my kit for my travels. Thank you for your thorough explanation. I also wondered where you got the Lego car, that looks like a fun build.
If you can document how you build the car I’d love to mimic the build? If you start with a kit and what additional pieces you use. I would be eternally grateful. Ciao
most people that put a winch on the front of a vehicle (for use and not looks) intend to go forward. most people that use their winch do not intend on turning around as soon a the get stuck, the really want to concur the obstacle and keep moving...
Fantastic Vid Robert. Well done. As usual, the detail is the best out there. Thanks for plumbing the depth of reverse winching and educating us all. I've always felt that it was a procedure that was great to know but would never really be used in anger that often. The only time I've used it was for my winching sideways video and at the time I set it up it didn't occur to me that I was actually setting up a reverse winch. Ah well we live and we learn. I want to know what tractive force can be generated by a 4wd in 4 situations. 40PSI tyre pressure on road and good gravel twin locked. Then same at 15PSI.
Robert - I’d be keen to see the force difference that tire pressure generate. That is, how much more force can you generate with lower pressures. Love to see that graphed. Also, the forces involved in snatch recovery. Will the load cells handle that?
Great job. The reality problem is the length of cable needed to preform the actual set up and the angles involved laterally and and incline decline. Still a great vid.
Step 6: Make sure you space out any solid objects that are attached to the line like x blocks, bow shackles, knots, other pulleys... anything attached to the line that could accidentally travel with the line and be forced through your pulleys when the rope moves or even just stretches. This is sometimes referred to as 2 blocking.
Once again thanks very much. I'd like some advice on recovery bags inflated with the exhaust. I'm sure you've already one so a referal would be great. 👍
Wow! That is what I call confidence in your abilities. To be all alone, and purposely stick yourself on your axles, and have the knowhow to extract your vehicle from a very tough spot. I want to pull some trees down using a multiple pulley setup (Lets say using 2- 4 sheave pulley blocks, and maybe 6-8 more snatch blocks) and pulling them with a Bobcat skid steer. I have lots of trees to use as anchors, so that is not a problem. Could you give me some examples with the what the MA ratio would be, using say, the 2-4 ways and 2, or 4, or 6 snatch blocks. Just for this example, let's assume the Bobcat will exert 1000 lbs of force on the rope attached to it. Thanks sincerely, Barry
What if you flip flop the pulley arrangement? Double pulley on the winch end and single on the other? Slow down the in speed but speed up the pull on the other end. I would think that would remove some resistance
Not sure about how to share( I'm a dinosaur 4wd Tutor that technology has left in its dust) but would love some tuition on how to spread your message.its a great example of figures supporting(or dispelling) theory.would like to talk sometime.Keep up the great tutorials
and if you have a older jeep without all the junk under it, just need a couple places to "slide" the cable down and under the body of the jeep (if you can one can build up a roller to fit to help guide the cable as needed). and keep on going to the rear. no snatch blocks needed.
This is why, after much research and agonising, I decided not to add around 150kg worth of electric winch and compatible steel bull bar and then worry over and pay for upgraded suspension. Instead decided on a 3 tonne pull Wyeth Scott hand winch, alloy snatch ring and X-lock. Yep, all recoveries will be as 'slow as molasses' in winter but the countering benefits are: Using the hooked snatch block supplied with the WS winch and the snatch ring I can pull in any direction in excess of 10 tonnes. Total weight added to vehicle when winch and associated tackle on board is less than one fifth of electric winch and bull bar. Can use the hand winch in numerous none 4wd applications. Finally, part of what I saved by not buying an electric winch, bull bar and suspension upgrade, I spent on two pairs of M@xtr@x which I figure, when used with a shovel, will be my way out in 90% of situations anyway.
I used to just have my front mounted winch and usually needing to be winched backwards, drape the cable underneath and hook it to the rear hitch, letting it slide under the axles.
I'd be interested in your videos on the x-lock. I have one but would like to see what you think. I did a search but couldn't find anything. Have you done any videos on it yet?
Works the other way around too :) I have a rear winch and no front winch The reason why it works has nothing to do with power, it’s as simple as where can be slack taken out of the line
At 06:18 the diagram shows forces. C=700 OK D=600 Should be 700 B=400 Should be 700 E=200 Should be 350 Where did all the losses come from? Is that all friction?
You are correct. The reason he shows lower values is because the vehicle moved. If the vehicle is fixed or stuck solid then the values would be as you show. He did not show the max pull, only the pull required to move the vehicle.
great videos. I'm just getting things gathered for the "just in case", ordered a winch as well. Maybe it'll never get used. better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
@@L2SFBC where can I get extra rope, maybe winch rope instead of snatch rope or straps? Just in case I need to fairlead a longer distance than my winch, straps and snatch rope will get me? thank you
I really like these in-depth data-driven videos. Keep up the good work. I have an idea for another load cell video. I'm not sure how good of data you can get because I think you might need a fairly high logging rate for this. One thing I've always wondered about is the forces involved in using snatch straps and snatch ropes. Like the forces created at different speeds, ie. 0 kph (static pull) vs 5 kph vs 10 kph vs 15 kph. Also the force profile of different strengths and lengths of ropes and strap. As well as the difference in the force profile of the same length and similar MBS of a strap vs a rope.
Thank you Robert - another excellent video. I’m certainly keen on putting the measurement and science into recovery! I particularly appreciated that you showed us the force required to pull your car directly with the other car as a baseline for comparing the force involved in the reverse winching. Significantly more force required for reverse winching! But still a good option to have in the recovery toolbox!
We always ran the cable under the vehicle before going off roading. If you do this, then you don't need the snatch block out to the side of the car. The cable simply runs under the car.
I can see that you are using a metal shakel to connect the two ropes. Can you please elaborate on that? What is the pros and cons on connecting two ropes via soft shakel or without a shakel at all like we do with straps?
i have a question about the total length of line. When you start the recovery you will have certain amount of line out. This would be determined by how much line it takes to reach the different anchor points and return to the vehicle. At some point you will have reduced the length of the overall line by the winch retrieving, to cause a lot of pressure. How does the amount of line going into the winch compare to how far the vehicle moves?
Fantasic detail as usual but I'm curious as to why your rear locker didn't seem to be working properly. At the 15min 14 sec mark in the vid it clearly shows the LHR wheel spinning above the ground and the caption says the rear locker makes no difference but if the rear locker was working properly wouldn't the RHR wheel have also been spinning which it wasn't.....or am I missing something??
Very interesting to see a scientific approach to the issues with figures obtained in a manner that are easily absorbed, which is very much helped by the excellent graphics and your model 4WD. This has given me a lot to think about with our truck running 5.76 Tonne as weighed a few days ago. Still learning and now having seen this clip, I have a far greater understanding of what is needed. Is it possible to contact you?
You have a wonderful presentation style. Technical, in depth, and no bulls. Most informative 4x4 channel out here.
Thanks please share 👍
Your videos on winching and recovery are outstanding. I have shared them with many of my Jeeping friends.
Thank You, Thank You, Thank you
Wow a new Super Thanks record...that'll make a big difference to my earnings for today from this channel! I really appreciate the ST for the money but also the motivation!
This video is an excellent tutorial. In order to reduce the amount of work and time this takes I’ve just installed two receiver hitches and my winch can be moved easily front or back.
I just wrote the same thing! :-D
I’m enjoying this. Thank you kid just got a Jeep and I’ve been trying to teach him so he doesn’t get hurt. 19 yr old know it all!
Glad to help, please share!
I solved this by putting receivers front and back and battery connections front and back - just need to get myself a big anderson connector set to make it quick to plug in. I can now which in or lower out in both directions and pull other items from either end of my rig. :-) All home built, too, 40x40x4mm winch cradle insert and 50x50x5 receivers. A bit smaller than the industry standard, but very close fitting and once bolted up tight, they work as one with no slop, play, rattles, movement, wear, noise, etc. Very sweet to see it come together - zinc plated 12.9 cap screws and button head cap screws and gloss black set it off a treat :-D Interesting video, though, for those that don't have that option. :)
Nice, but what happens if you can't remove the winch when you need it on the other bumper?
@@NulodPBall I can't imagine that ever happening in my use, but off road, I suppose it could. Pretty unlikely even then though. It sticks out a lot so you wouldn't ho offroading with it installed. It'd be stored in the vehicle and deployed for use as needed. Sub ideal for offroad use. If I was building a rig for serious off road use I'd have two winches permanently installed.
@@fredio54 I'm glad it works for you.
And you're right, most situations - having a second option mount point is hard to beat.
I just have found that you really don't find the downside to anything until you try it.
Like I watched someone learn the hard way: Never let anyone hook up to your front bumper or frame, to give you an assist when trying to unstick someone...the middle person's frame would squat under pressure until something obviously broke. The stuck persons bumper was at, or below ground level in a mud field...so if he was winchable, he just would have had to use a shovel first... but I think he should have used a shovel anyway before getting a pull.
Love the lego demonstration! A great idea!
Another way to think of that is that the winch is making the line shorter. The only way to shorten it is by moving the car back.
Now I have a limo. Win win!
Really enjoyed watching this. The way you explained it, made perfect sense. Another great video Robert!
I just chose to fit a rear winch one of the best mods I've done.
Brilliant! Thanks for your time and making these videos for the rest of us.
Glad you like them! Please share :-)
You are the nerdiest 4wd guy I have subscribed to. Please take that as a compliment. Looking forward to more videos.
👍👍👍
Conpliment accepted 😄
We practiced the reverse winch on our refresher recovery weekend last week. We practiced your set up on a 15 to 20 degree smooth slope, but were a little unsure when the lines seemed to be very tight but no movement. So we tried it on a flat slope and saw the results. It appears like you say the winch has to generate a lot of force to overcome a little force to move the vehicle. We then decided to see the effect of adding an extra 2 snatch blocks in the rear set up to lessen the load. This made a significant difference and the vehicle moved a lot easier. Would be interesting to see your load examples for a set up with 2 extra snatch blocks at the rear. Reason being in real life you are more likely to be on a 20 degree uneven slope which would most probably be to much for the a winch with 2 rear snatch blocks.
We also did the triple line and Spanish Burton and added extra snatch blocks to reduce winch load to pull a simulated dead load vehicle. Made a huge difference. Roughly Calculated we had a winch to load of 1 to 8 with the Spanish Burton with a couple extra snatch blocks.
Great to hear! 15-20 degrees is a steep slope. Stand by for some friction analysis....
Thank you very much for this informative video. I literally, completely at random, had an idea 3 days ago whether something like this would be possible and youtube gods dropped this into recommended so I did not even have to search for it. I know folks can use rear winches but that requires a ton of additional money to accomplish so using what you already have to get yourself out of a situation is awesome means of geometry and physics.
Thank you for the scientifical analysis. Very interesting and practical! Looking forward for more material (books and videos).
Thanks Sassan please share 🙏
Great video! But not practical in the real world.
I learnt this the hard way when I really needed to winch myself backwards up a near vertical hill, realised I didn't have enough pully blocks so I ended up running my winch rope under the vehicle, it worked and got us out of a serious situation but I bent the lip of my steel bar where the rope passes out from the fairlead to under the vehicle, not surprising due the sharp change of direction.
I since repaired and reinforced it with some steel tubing to make for a nice smooth angle for the rope to slide along, it works an absolute treat and makes for easy and safe reverse winch. Also saves having to carry all those extra heavy snatch blocks and gear.
Great video. I travel solo most of the time and need to do self recovery. I have a Suzuki Grand Vitara and have been able to recover myself with a simple come a long so far. I have been thinking about an electric winch but mounting it as a portable and attaching to a 2 inch receiver front and rear on the rig. Thank you for the video.
Thanks please share!
A winch will save you a lot of time and energy.
Great job, Robert! 4x the force to go backwards! That's going to work the winch. Hopefully, I'm not seriously stuck in the bush!
Very good practical demonstration backed with hard figures.well done
Thank you Chris, would appreciate a share!
3:35 I was really worried that the scales hook link would let go!!!
Nice demo Robert, and precise explanation as always.
Thanks please share 👍
Well done Robert and thank you for parting with your knowledge. Cheers
Thank you, please share!
Fantastic, My father (Ex-military) showed me this set up years ago (I've never had to use this setup but I was always equipped just in case) I guess it was a matter of be sure you can go forward and not be forced to reverse ! Great to have numbers applied to really grasp what is actually happening ! Always great videos (This is the second in a row tonight) Thanks and be safe !
Thanks, appreciate the support, please share!
@@L2SFBC Not a problem, will do.
I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm glad you put a guide together on this topic. Thank you!
Danke!
Really appreciate the Super Thanks, Sassan!
I've found it easier with a 3:1 at the back. The key is shortening the distance at the back faster than the distance at the front. Fiddle block at the back would be even better!
Robert, Thank you so very much in taking the time and money to teach people all over the world to be self- sufficient. Cheers
Thanks, please share :-)
Nice video. with all the accessories, extra line, shackles, and snatch blocks; probably could have purchased a rear winch and mounted it cheaper. It truly is a good video and a lot of time, money , energy, and thought process went into this video. I had to do a similar pull like your video in Honduras. Definitely was not as pretty. Made me come home to the United States and design a rear winch bumper for my Super Duty and Ford Raptor. Working on one for the Jeep Wrangler and Gladiator.
IMPRESSED WITH THE VIDEO. GOOD JOB
Thanks I agree it isn't something you do every time...but that one time you need it, handy to have in the bag of tricks 👍
Ive been yo Honduras. I can imagine, pretty remote down there.
Thank you appreciate that please share 👌
Good video. Thanks.
At 17:10 I can't tell where the dead end of rope is hooked. Looks like it goes between the 2 ends of tree strap and to soft shackle. Wouldn't that pinch the shackle?
Amazing video, covers everything really well. Excellent explanation, really clear.
I wonder if you can do a 3:1, 4:1, etc at the rear to increase the recovery force? You'd need more hardware like snatch blocks/rings etc though.
Yes you would
FINALLY 😱 iv been trying to explain this for years with a diagram and nobody believes it’s possible 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Ps Excellent video well presented great models 👍🏻
Thanks please share :-)
To reduce winch tensions you can ad another pulley at back (3:1 or 4:1 in place to 2:1) that will reduce a lot of tension and make the overall system a 2:1 pull👍 great video!!!
Yes I can't stop thinking how much better it would be adding the 'Spanish Burton' rig to the rear combination to it as well.
@@maxgood42 yes, it would be great for other video...
A good scientific approach to winching
Thanks please share!
Great video. It's a topic that comes up regularly, especially when questioning the practicality of a front mounted winch. It's good to see that it is possible, but it certainly takes a lot of kit, knowledge and preperation. I think it is perhaps best to consider all other options first!
Agreed!
Reverse winching, such a hot topic!
this is awesome. also synthetic haters , recovery tow vehicles for semi recovery have synthetic ropes now and the drivers love them .
4 belts, 4 pulleys, 4 trees.. That's a lot of stuff required. The only good advice to prevent this is: don't go off-roading alone.
A winch front and rear would cover it.
Well yeah but some folks travel in the bush for reasons other than 4X4 fun, hunting, camping, working, exploring, impressing ladies, etc
@@Mudder1310 no it doesn’t…. I’ve been stuck for two days in a 4wd that had front/rear winch, anchors, the whole list, sometimes it just does matter how much gear you have. And yes, was my own fault. Got complacent, didn’t have have coffee, etc - plain simple, very avoidable
When you do be Prepared.
Blew my mind. Great video and explanation
Thanks please share!
This is amazing. If I was caught (with enough rope!), I wouldn't have thought to do the double line at the back, and just ripped things off my car - Whilst making zero progress at the same time.
Try it, you’ll love it. Start a fire too.
Excellent video Robert. I always wondered how that works. Have been in that situation before and had to get pulled out. Thanks again.
Thanks please share 👍
Hi Robert - I love your pictorial display of forces - we learn the same stuff in orthopaedic surgery for an old fashioned treatment known as traction, which involves string, pulleys, and a weight
Wow so cool to learn from different industries!!
New Sub here. I wanted to say thank you for making these informational masterpieces. Very interesting stuff and very useful.
thank you!
First-rate presentation and tutorial. Thank you - it’s very helpful to this winching newbie for sure. Subscribed!
Great video. I'm putting together my kit for my travels. Thank you for your thorough explanation. I also wondered where you got the Lego car, that looks like a fun build.
The LEGO is a custom build. About to work on a video featuring Version 2 of that car and some others.
If you can document how you build the car I’d love to mimic the build? If you start with a kit and what additional pieces you use. I would be eternally grateful. Ciao
Stay tuned...
ive always wondered how this was done. everyone puts a winch on the front but whenever ive been stuck ive always needed to be pulled out backwards
most people that put a winch on the front of a vehicle (for use and not looks) intend to go forward.
most people that use their winch do not intend on turning around as soon a the get stuck, the really want to concur the obstacle and keep moving...
That's just amazing ,thank you for making these videos.
You're welcome please share 😊
Quite a brilliant explanation of how the forces work... Thanks for the video! Another good one!
Thank you, very glad it was useful!
Fantastic. I have been thinking about this for years and glad you showed it was possible! Cheers.
Great video. Interesting to know the winch´s backward capability in terms of force.
Fantastic Vid Robert. Well done. As usual, the detail is the best out there. Thanks for plumbing the depth of reverse winching and educating us all. I've always felt that it was a procedure that was great to know but would never really be used in anger that often. The only time I've used it was for my winching sideways video and at the time I set it up it didn't occur to me that I was actually setting up a reverse winch. Ah well we live and we learn. I want to know what tractive force can be generated by a 4wd in 4 situations. 40PSI tyre pressure on road and good gravel twin locked. Then same at 15PSI.
We shall find out! And for those who haven't seen it, here's Matt's reverse winch:
th-cam.com/video/SAtYKf8zcQw/w-d-xo.html
@@L2SFBC Thanks mate
Robert - I’d be keen to see the force difference that tire pressure generate. That is, how much more force can you generate with lower pressures. Love to see that graphed.
Also, the forces involved in snatch recovery. Will the load cells handle that?
Another great video, thanks Robert
Great job. The reality problem is the length of cable needed to preform the actual set up and the angles involved laterally and and incline decline. Still a great vid.
Thanks please share 👍
Step 6: Make sure you space out any solid objects that are attached to the line like x blocks, bow shackles, knots, other pulleys... anything attached to the line that could accidentally travel with the line and be forced through your pulleys when the rope moves or even just stretches. This is sometimes referred to as 2 blocking.
You should check the load at the side re direct point. The line load will be great.
Great info and love your presentation!
Thanks so much! Please share :-)
Have you thought of putting together a cheat sheet or a quick reference booklet with different diagrams and winching techniques?
l2sfbc.com/about-the-4wd-handbook/
l2sfbc.com/the-4wd-glovebox-guide/
@@L2SFBC Nice!!
Once again thanks very much. I'd like some advice on recovery bags inflated with the exhaust. I'm sure you've already one so a referal would be great. 👍
I haven't made a video on that topic but I have written about it. I own one but never use it, there's better tools to carry in my view, even in sand.
Wow! That is what I call confidence in your abilities. To be all alone, and purposely stick yourself on your axles, and have the knowhow to extract your vehicle from a very tough spot.
I want to pull some trees down using a multiple pulley setup (Lets say using 2- 4 sheave pulley blocks, and maybe 6-8 more snatch blocks) and pulling them with a Bobcat skid steer. I have lots of trees to use as anchors, so that is not a problem. Could you give me some examples with the what the MA ratio would be, using say, the 2-4 ways and 2, or 4, or 6 snatch blocks. Just for this example, let's assume the Bobcat will exert 1000 lbs of force on the rope attached to it.
Thanks sincerely, Barry
Mind blown! 🤯
great vid! much effort put into.👍
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure! Please share :-)
This was very well presented and valuable to see!!!!
Thanks, please share etc!
Really well done vid. Thanks for posting.
Thanks please share etc!
What if you flip flop the pulley arrangement? Double pulley on the winch end and single on the other? Slow down the in speed but speed up the pull on the other end. I would think that would remove some resistance
thank you for detail video
what is 6ton truck pull out backward
Depends on the force required to pull it. In the video I give a rough % to work with.
Fantastic video Robert, I learned a lot from this one.
Not sure about how to share( I'm a dinosaur 4wd Tutor that technology has left in its dust) but would love some tuition on how to spread your message.its a great example of figures supporting(or dispelling) theory.would like to talk sometime.Keep up the great tutorials
Ah ok ...copy this and paste it into Facebook and other places!
th-cam.com/video/nVnbPNyLu_c/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. I have wondered how to do this but couldn't visualize it.
Glad I could help! Please share :-)
and if you have a older jeep without all the junk under it, just need a couple places to "slide" the cable down and under the body of the jeep (if you can one can build up a roller to fit to help guide the cable as needed). and keep on going to the rear. no snatch blocks needed.
Ha nice!
Well done, great video, I'm selling all my 4wd stuff and getting some Lego.
This is why, after much research and agonising, I decided not to add around 150kg worth of electric winch and compatible steel bull bar and then worry over and pay for upgraded suspension. Instead decided on a 3 tonne pull Wyeth Scott hand winch, alloy snatch ring and X-lock. Yep, all recoveries will be as 'slow as molasses' in winter but the countering benefits are: Using the hooked snatch block supplied with the WS winch and the snatch ring I can pull in any direction in excess of 10 tonnes. Total weight added to vehicle when winch and associated tackle on board is less than one fifth of electric winch and bull bar. Can use the hand winch in numerous none 4wd applications. Finally, part of what I saved by not buying an electric winch, bull bar and suspension upgrade, I spent on two pairs of M@xtr@x which I figure, when used with a shovel, will be my way out in 90% of situations anyway.
I used to just have my front mounted winch and usually needing to be winched backwards, drape the cable underneath and hook it to the rear hitch, letting it slide under the axles.
Excellent video! Learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work!
Good video. A hand winch is also helpful
Sure is!
My brain can’t comprehend this black magic!
I'd be interested in your videos on the x-lock. I have one but would like to see what you think. I did a search but couldn't find anything. Have you done any videos on it yet?
It's great I LOVE IT, one of those things you never knew you needed till you owned it!
@@L2SFBC Yep, I think it's a great bit of kit. I need to get out and try it soon.
I never hear any mention of the car in park or neutral with the brakes on? how hard would it to be to snap the parking gear?
Why would you do that?
@@L2SFBC what ya mean?
Works the other way around too :) I have a rear winch and no front winch
The reason why it works has nothing to do with power, it’s as simple as where can be slack taken out of the line
At 06:18 the diagram shows forces.
C=700 OK
D=600 Should be 700
B=400 Should be 700
E=200 Should be 350
Where did all the losses come from? Is that all friction?
You are correct. The reason he shows lower values is because the vehicle moved. If the vehicle is fixed or stuck solid then the values would be as you show. He did not show the max pull, only the pull required to move the vehicle.
@@jimthode OK
Brilliant! thanks for the detailed video!
Well done
great videos. I'm just getting things gathered for the "just in case", ordered a winch as well. Maybe it'll never get used. better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
Definitely!!!
@@L2SFBC I’ve watched 5 or more videos of yours today. Learning a lot and getting great ideas and “tools for my toolbox”
I'm so pleased to hear you find my work useful!
@@L2SFBC where can I get extra rope, maybe winch rope instead of snatch rope or straps? Just in case I need to fairlead a longer distance than my winch, straps and snatch rope will get me? thank you
Any rope supplier should be able to supply spliced lengths to order
I really like these in-depth data-driven videos. Keep up the good work.
I have an idea for another load cell video. I'm not sure how good of data you can get because I think you might need a fairly high logging rate for this.
One thing I've always wondered about is the forces involved in using snatch straps and snatch ropes. Like the forces created at different speeds, ie. 0 kph (static pull) vs 5 kph vs 10 kph vs 15 kph. Also the force profile of different strengths and lengths of ropes and strap. As well as the difference in the force profile of the same length and similar MBS of a strap vs a rope.
Yes log rate is a concern there. But I have plans...
Thanks for the detailed vide, may help one day
Glad it helped!
The more people pulling together the better the strength. Trees are us.
Excellent video.
Thanks please share!
Thank you Robert - another excellent video. I’m certainly keen on putting the measurement and science into recovery!
I particularly appreciated that you showed us the force required to pull your car directly with the other car as a baseline for comparing the force involved in the reverse winching. Significantly more force required for reverse winching!
But still a good option to have in the recovery toolbox!
Brilliant video - thank you
Thanks please share 👍
We always ran the cable under the vehicle before going off roading. If you do this, then you don't need the snatch block out to the side of the car. The cable simply runs under the car.
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it helped, please share!
Future video, the effect on rope stretch. Rope vs cable. Stretch vs effect on forces.
Nice presentation. Prefer to drive 4x4 as opposed to 4x2. Add in the differential lockers and you can almost forget about the winch. Almost 😊
Is there any further benefit to using a triple line in the rear?
not really
What about running the winch rope under the car to an anchor point behind a car?
Can work but will damage the rope and stress the winch mount points in ways they were not designed for.
I can see that you are using a metal shakel to connect the two ropes.
Can you please elaborate on that?
What is the pros and cons on connecting two ropes via soft shakel or without a shakel at all like we do with straps?
EXCELLENT. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
You are 'GOOD'.
THANK You.
You're welcome!
Awesome video thanks for sharing.
Thank you...and can you please share!
@@L2SFBC will do.
Is that whole system relying on the stretch and recoil of the dyneema line? Would it still work with wire cable ?
It will work with wire too.
Excellent video!
Thanks, please share!
Brilliant ! But does the winch survive ?
It does!
i have a question about the total length of line. When you start the recovery you will have certain amount of line out. This would be determined by how much line it takes to reach the different anchor points and return to the vehicle. At some point you will have reduced the length of the overall line by the winch retrieving, to cause a lot of pressure. How does the amount of line going into the winch compare to how far the vehicle moves?
That's covered in the video somewhere; I did measure it. Basically it's a lot!
@@L2SFBC Thanks so much!!! Thank you for all the great information you put out on your videos!!! You really do a fantastic job sir!!!
Fantasic detail as usual but I'm curious as to why your rear locker didn't seem to be working properly. At the 15min 14 sec mark in the vid it clearly shows the LHR wheel spinning above the ground and the caption says the rear locker makes no difference but if the rear locker was working properly wouldn't the RHR wheel have also been spinning which it wasn't.....or am I missing something??
Very interesting to see a scientific approach to the issues with figures obtained in a manner that are easily absorbed, which is very much helped by the excellent graphics and your model 4WD.
This has given me a lot to think about with our truck running 5.76 Tonne as weighed a few days ago. Still learning and now having seen this clip, I have a far greater understanding of what is needed.
Is it possible to contact you?
Thanks! Yes -> l2sfbc.com/contact/