Thank you for sharing an impressive video of Octopus with us. More Voron users can have our Octopus install in their next build. Regarding HV CAPS, we love hearing your ideas! We'll definitely pass your desire to our teams. We will keep delivering quality products to you! :)
Hello BTT folks, some clarification on the probe issues would be most helpful. This is confusing, as the new port was meant to be better suited to this kind of probes.
it's a good idea to at least bore holes through board on caps connectors so enthusiasts can replace caps themselves placing them on back side of board: actually it's impossible to fit SMD caps with bigger voltage on face side of board while holes can be bored in newer revision w/o any issues(ofc if there's no traces under them)
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov I think having through hole ones sideways like some Arduino CNC shields do could make that possible, but that would of course make them stick out further to either way and thus the jumpers go somewhere else, either jumps or caps have to move.
This video came out at the right time. I have the Formbot kit shipping to my house and it is coming with this board. I'm glad it got your stamp of approval. Thanks for all of your videos. I'm building the Voron 2.4 because of you. Keep up the amazing content.
did you manage to configure everything? Where should I search for the config manual? Is there any step-by-step guide? I just received my formbot kit :)
The winner for me is the cable loom from linneo and the octopus especially where fans are concerned wow that board is a beast and with the tmc2209s from teamgloomy at mellow, I can't complain these particular 2209s have a small switch hence we don't need cut anypins why should I buy something to have it cut unless it wires...
@@Hopeinformer Could it be, that Nero didn’t set the jumper? Number 5 in this wiring document. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Octopus%20works%20on%20Voron%20v2.4/Firmware/BTT_OctoPus_Voron2.4_Wiring_English.pdf
nice review. I'm really tempted to replace my two SKR with one of these. It's just so clean and has so many controlled fan outputs for all kinds of shenanigans
One small observation. The header that you called out above the fan ports is an SPI header. For the Raspberry Pi connection, both serial and power come from the "UART" header directly to the right of "MOTOR7". There are 2x5v, 4xGND, and TX/RX in a non-pi standard orientation (unlike the spider header layout that matches the Pi's). If you are going to use this header, be mindful of the pin layout in your jumper as to not damage your Pi or your Octopus. If you plan on using UART instead of USB, you will need to setup the firmware to use "Communication interface (Serial (on USART2 PD6/PD5))".
The spider actually supports 6 Fans, only 3 are "dedicated" fan headers, the other 3 are multiuse headers that can be fans or LEDS for example. And of course any unused hotend heater pins can be used for fans too.
I just got an Octopus v1.1 after the extruder driver on my SKR e3 mini blew up randomly. It’s gonna be my first board that’s not a plug and play swap. It’s gonna be an interesting learning experience.
About probe port: I'm using octopus pro board which is basically the same. It's fully working using OMRON and similar probes. It requires special tune in configuration.h! You have to disable pull-up for Z_MIN_PIN and then enable pull-down for it.
I'm anticipating the comparison with the spider. Have you ever seen anyone using multiple independent bed heaters and multiple temp sensors to try to even out the temperature differences across the bed and in particularly at the edge of the bed due to more radiative area?
Should PID tune after replacing the board as the thermistors may read slightly differently(especially after changing wiring looms, as may the MOSFETs that power the heaters.
On the soldering: It's almost impossible to get a clean finish on matte black PCBs with thru-hole parts, I've seen dev kits from TI that looked like crap because they went with matte black, looks like a phenomenal board (also first, I guess)
Would actually want larger than 50V caps for 48V motor power. Those bulk caps tend to loose a significant amount of capacitance (up to 50% in some cases) due to DC bias. I would argue that the 35V caps used are correctly sized for 24V.
Yeah, I was thinking MLCCs. I rarely (if ever) use axial/radial caps in my designs. Still a good idea to have a cap rating higher than 5% of the input voltage since most power supplies' ratings will be about that. Better safe than sorry.
Really enjoyed the video and this will help me with getting my 2.4 unit operational. I would like to share a caution. When handling circuit boards with ESD (electrostatic discharge) sensitive components, please consider using an ESD wrist strap and mat that is connected to an earth ground. Watching you touch pins and connectors made me cringe as low voltage discharges, which you can't see or feel, can weaken the internal structures of IC's and other devices. This can shorten the lifetimes of those parts and cause failure a few months down the road. Anyway, just passing along a tip to help keep printers up and running.
Hi!, total new to this build of Voron but... just starting to collect it all, atm a couple of week further... can you tell what's your experience is with the Octopus v.s. the Spider ?
Can you test the Fly f407zg? The spider and the octopus is almost the same... The f407zg uses an stm32f407 which has 1mb flash and able to run rrf either. Thanks
Hi. Can klipper run on this board with no rpi? I have 7 machines in my hotrod shop lab. 3 have this board now. To klipp all, the rpi cost adds up to a decent Mercedes. I'm swimming in i7 iMacs and galaxy s7 androids. A non rpi solution is needed right now and would make use of wildly available ewaste. Thanks for the channel. You're a brilliant guy.
Could you please provide a diagram or photo on how to connect the wires? Or at least a tutorial... I want to switch from 2x SKR 1.4 Turbo to the Octopus 1.1 . Thank you!
Great review, thanks! For a Voron 2.4, would you prefer it over a Spiderboard? Ah, sorry didn't what the end before writing this... ;) Ok, looking forward to your comparisions! Is it possible to power the raspi with this board? the spider is able to, isn't it?
this is nice!! makes those OTC 3dp's look very poor!! 6 motion control slots! I wander if this board can read ABC axis???most need EEprom flashed!! I would love 2 incorporate this!! super slick! tell me U have more vids on this?? good 1 !!
Interesting to see CANBUS mentioned in a printer, I thought that was just in cars. Or is this just a happenstance crossover of terms and its a totally different thing.
Impressive video, I’m stuck with my Voron build, well maybe not stuck, this board has 2 sets of outputs for the bed, one is marked bed power and the other is just marked bed, I’ve never had a SSR before and think I should connect to the bed output and not the bed power. Is that right?
For someone building a Rat Rig core 3, planning to use klipper for things like input shaping with an accelerometer, hesitating between for example a BTT Octopus 1.1, or a variant of the BTT SKR Pro, what would you recommend ? Do either bench the same in terms of step frequency for klipper ? thanks!
Great video! I'm kind of new to all this but tinker with everything form time to time. One question I couldn't find answered anywhere is: If this is suitable for the Creality CR10 Max? I've read that other boards from BTT are not suitable because the CR10 Max has 2 separate PSU's that couldn't be wired correctly. I'd buy the Octopus in a heartbeat if it can be confirmed compatible with the CR10 Max setup. Thanks in advance!
A 36v PSU should be fine if its got a potentiometer for adjustment. It should be able to go +-3v from that number on the lable. All ways check with a multimeter of course 👍
Hello Nero! Thank you for the review of this board! You shortly ran over the fan outputs, and i would like to know what the octopus can deliver of wattage on 12 volt on one output . I'm asking because I have a waterpump, and it pulls 15 watts, is the octopus capable of that? Because that would be a "add to basket reason" for me, then I don't need a separate converter for it anymore. Cheers, thanks for all you content
Is there a way to add ethernet to octopus board instead of wi-fi? Probably a ethernet breakout board with UART or SPI interface. Looking to connect my RPi remote server to 3d printer.
Both work just fine when they work. And really theres zero performance difference. BUT The spider has had qc issues and lots of smokey boards. Thus id say go with the octopus
Hey Nero, love your tutorials, they're a HUGE help in putting together my Voron 2.4.... just on the probe, can you clarify, you remove the black signal wire but where does it go then as XYZ endstops already wired in.... please help!! :)
Refer to the wiring diagram in the manual. But basically i pulled ground and vin from the sensor plug. Then the sense pin went to the numbered pin on a free endstop
Nope, the einsy rambo only has 4 stepper drivers. So the Z motors are tied together A common trick people do is ram the gantry into the top of the frame to tram it out....
@@CanuckCreator Do you think the powersuplly from the board is strong enough to power a raspi pi 4b with a TFT Screen connected directly to the rasppi?
I am fairly new to 3D printing. That said I am a fast learner and am looking at putting together a custom printer that will fit what I need. 1000×1000×1000 for rapid mold prototyping. Is there a good source for programming and configuration of a bord like that?
@@thiagokeizo I dunno about you, but I'd be super sketched out running much more than 24V through one of those tiny TMC board modules using questionably flimsy 0.1 header pins. You'll start to find yourself in territory where things like creep and clearance and just general rules of thumb for insulating and separating things will become relevant. They pack them in so tight that they're bumping edges by default. IMO, if you're getting into a higher power range, you should be using more conventional motor driver units that are monolithic blocks like a gecko drive (just an example, not endorsing) which is in its own housing with a higher degree of ruggedness.
Nero 3dp Ive never tried Klipper yet, but looking to. Not really for racing and super speed, but wanting reliable, accurate production. But most of what I see of Klipper on YT is high speed trials.
@@soundmindtv2911 i built a voron after using a creality cr-6 and a prusa mini for several months, Klipper once you learn the ropes and get comfortable with it is on a different level. It's vastly superior in all fields, which is why people use it for speedy prints.
Is it any kind of problem that my PSU (Ender 5 plus, all orig. atm) doesn`t have enough outputs? It`s mostly chinese symbols on there, but 500 is prob. the wattage., 24V. 21A from what I can decifer. How would a professional deal with that issue? I doubt shoving in 2 fork cable lugs in the first 2 slots (1st + and 1st -) is a recommended solution, is it? (It`s what I came up with) The printer is all DC, no fruity AC stuff in my bed.(No judgement either, js) Only the cables from the Mosfet to the board look a bit, underwhelming. Actually most cables on the cheapo chinese production that is the mighty "Ender 5 plus" are
I wouldn’t because the 5V regulator feeds the 3.3V regulator, and pulling too much from the 5V can shut down the 3.3V. Also, powering the Raspberry Pi through the PIO would bypass the power protection circuit on the Pi.
You really want them to spend money on packaging? I hate fancy packaging. I always wonder how much less I could have paid if they just used a brown cardboard box. I also hate throwing out the nice packaging. What a waste of resources. Now that I've vented, I'll want the rest of the video.
I agree the world could do without fancy ass packaging, after all all your going to do with it is throw it in the recycling bin, this new trend should not be encouraged.
@@mocotonio I could actually get the this cheaper than a skr mini, hence my question. But I decided to just go for the skr mini as I know very little about this stuff.
Im a fan of what some board manufacturers are doing now where they are moving to naming the motors just M0-M7 (or however many steppers are on the board) Board labeling doesnt matter, its all firmware configuration dependent for motor assignment
Why are you glad for expensive printed boxes that get thrown in the trash. I don't want to pay for that. Put some cool art on your website. I don't want to pay for the box. I want the board to designed well.
Are you keeping the packaging for yourself as a display item or just throwing it in the bin? It seems like a massive waste to be Producing packaging that is using excessive resources
Yes they are pricey. But if you factor in the material cost of the high quality wire used and the man hours it takes to build the loom yourself...it isnt that bad really
These boards are so damn cheap the only thing holding me back is my printer (cr-10 v2) and the headache of switching. I think I may be a coreXY in the future with that MCU.
Thank you for sharing an impressive video of Octopus with us. More Voron users can have our Octopus install in their next build. Regarding HV CAPS, we love hearing your ideas! We'll definitely pass your desire to our teams. We will keep delivering quality products to you! :)
awesome to hear
Hello BTT folks, some clarification on the probe issues would be most helpful. This is confusing, as the new port was meant to be better suited to this kind of probes.
it's a good idea to at least bore holes through board on caps connectors so enthusiasts can replace caps themselves placing them on back side of board: actually it's impossible to fit SMD caps with bigger voltage on face side of board while holes can be bored in newer revision w/o any issues(ofc if there's no traces under them)
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov I think having through hole ones sideways like some Arduino CNC shields do could make that possible, but that would of course make them stick out further to either way and thus the jumpers go somewhere else, either jumps or caps have to move.
@@Kalvinjj well, it's a major design change, yet i'd like to see it with 90v caps it's not impossible after all
This video came out at the right time. I have the Formbot kit shipping to my house and it is coming with this board. I'm glad it got your stamp of approval.
Thanks for all of your videos. I'm building the Voron 2.4 because of you. Keep up the amazing content.
did you manage to configure everything? Where should I search for the config manual? Is there any step-by-step guide? I just received my formbot kit :)
Comparing the Spider and Octopus boards... Looking forward to that video. Thank you for great content. Your channel is well worth the membership
this is what im looking forward too
The winner for me is the cable loom from linneo and the octopus especially where fans are concerned wow that board is a beast and with the tmc2209s from teamgloomy at mellow, I can't complain these particular 2209s have a small switch hence we don't need cut anypins why should I buy something to have it cut unless it wires...
@@Naz013 very true. I think I'll wait on the octopus though until they get those probe pins set sorted out
@@Hopeinformer Could it be, that Nero didn’t set the jumper? Number 5 in this wiring document. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Octopus%20works%20on%20Voron%20v2.4/Firmware/BTT_OctoPus_Voron2.4_Wiring_English.pdf
@@StangspringDK I didn't see your reply. Sorry man. Thank you for your help.
nice review. I'm really tempted to replace my two SKR with one of these. It's just so clean and has so many controlled fan outputs for all kinds of shenanigans
Impressed with the wiring harnesses.
One small observation. The header that you called out above the fan ports is an SPI header. For the Raspberry Pi connection, both serial and power come from the "UART" header directly to the right of "MOTOR7". There are 2x5v, 4xGND, and TX/RX in a non-pi standard orientation (unlike the spider header layout that matches the Pi's). If you are going to use this header, be mindful of the pin layout in your jumper as to not damage your Pi or your Octopus. If you plan on using UART instead of USB, you will need to setup the firmware to use "Communication interface (Serial (on USART2 PD6/PD5))".
I love that it has so many fan ports. 3 fan ports on the spider seems kind of silly. I'm very happy with my octopus so far (QC issues aside)
The spider actually supports 6 Fans, only 3 are "dedicated" fan headers, the other 3 are multiuse headers that can be fans or LEDS for example. And of course any unused hotend heater pins can be used for fans too.
this board really checks the boxes.... all BTT products i have had, have worked great. So this will be my next board
Great review and information; one thing the wrong connector pointed to for Raspberry Pi, the correct connector is next to the I2C connector.
The Omron probe need pullup resistor as declared in its data sheet. Put a 10k~47k resistor between VCC and signal wire and it will work.
That's super helpful!
I wonder if there is a pull up in the I/O port that just needs to be enabled in the firmware?
@@ColinWatters as i remember it does not connect directly to the io pin so software pullup might not work
I just got an Octopus v1.1 after the extruder driver on my SKR e3 mini blew up randomly. It’s gonna be my first board that’s not a plug and play swap. It’s gonna be an interesting learning experience.
Mine should be arriving today. It'll be going into my layerfused X501.
a great, in depth and honest review. Thanks so much! Your knowledge makes it easy to understand everything.
Thanks for the heads up about the probe! nice intro/review of the board
As usual thanks for the quick review and tour of the board.
Omg I didn’t know about the controllable fan voltage! And a raspberry PI connector!? Omg I haven’t opened my board yet and im so happy I got it.
About probe port: I'm using octopus pro board which is basically the same. It's fully working using OMRON and similar probes. It requires special tune in configuration.h! You have to disable pull-up for Z_MIN_PIN and then enable pull-down for it.
Looks like they took your suggestion to heart, the PRO version is has 60V
Eager to listen to the spider comparison. (that I'm using now) really tempted to switch to an octopus with a premade wireloom.
Honestly if you already have a spider and its meeting all your needs. You wont get much if anything switching to an octopus
Thanks! This looks like a great option.
I'm anticipating the comparison with the spider. Have you ever seen anyone using multiple independent bed heaters and multiple temp sensors to try to even out the temperature differences across the bed and in particularly at the edge of the bed due to more radiative area?
You can insulate the edge
Fans for days 🤘
I've been waiting for this video for a while now :)
Should PID tune after replacing the board as the thermistors may read slightly differently(especially after changing wiring looms, as may the MOSFETs that power the heaters.
On the soldering: It's almost impossible to get a clean finish on matte black PCBs with thru-hole parts, I've seen dev kits from TI that looked like crap because they went with matte black, looks like a phenomenal board (also first, I guess)
So do we need to change to bright black ink PCB?
@@bigtreetech5117 yess
Would actually want larger than 50V caps for 48V motor power. Those bulk caps tend to loose a significant amount of capacitance (up to 50% in some cases) due to DC bias. I would argue that the 35V caps used are correctly sized for 24V.
You are thinking of MLCCs. Aluminium electrolytic caps are almost not affected by dc bias.
Yeah, I was thinking MLCCs. I rarely (if ever) use axial/radial caps in my designs. Still a good idea to have a cap rating higher than 5% of the input voltage since most power supplies' ratings will be about that. Better safe than sorry.
I would not use those 35V capacitors to anything over 24V. With 48V, I would use 60V capacitors.
Really enjoyed the video and this will help me with getting my 2.4 unit operational. I would like to share a caution. When handling circuit boards with ESD (electrostatic discharge) sensitive components, please consider using an ESD wrist strap and mat that is connected to an earth ground. Watching you touch pins and connectors made me cringe as low voltage discharges, which you can't see or feel, can weaken the internal structures of IC's and other devices. This can shorten the lifetimes of those parts and cause failure a few months down the road. Anyway, just passing along a tip to help keep printers up and running.
Really cool thank you.
Hi!, total new to this build of Voron but... just starting to collect it all, atm a couple of week further... can you tell what's your experience is with the Octopus v.s. the Spider ?
On paper both are fine. However the spider has had many qc issues crop up. So id recommend the octopus
@@CanuckCreator Thanks for the quick respons!
@@CanuckCreator Could you suggest a specific firmware/setup for a Voron 2.4 ?
For your sensor probe you can use a pull up or pull down resitor to make it functional
Could you point me in the right direction for more info about this?
damn your voron 2.1 is GIANT! here i was thinking my doot changer is too big!
What screen? Any large touch screens?
What powersupply am i going to need?
Idk how they do the octopus for the same price as the SKR Mini v2 but man I could not be happier.
Can you attach a 3-axis analog joystick and move axis smoothly simultanously?
Can you test the Fly f407zg? The spider and the octopus is almost the same... The f407zg uses an stm32f407 which has 1mb flash and able to run rrf either. Thanks
Hi. Can klipper run on this board with no rpi? I have 7 machines in my hotrod shop lab. 3 have this board now. To klipp all, the rpi cost adds up to a decent Mercedes. I'm swimming in i7 iMacs and galaxy s7 androids. A non rpi solution is needed right now and would make use of wildly available ewaste. Thanks for the channel. You're a brilliant guy.
As long as you can run linux on it, Klipper should be able to run on it.
Could you please provide a diagram or photo on how to connect the wires? Or at least a tutorial... I want to switch from 2x SKR 1.4 Turbo to the Octopus 1.1 . Thank you!
the Octopus manual has some diagrams
Did you ever make the comparison video with this and the spider?
Well. Put it this way the video is a bit old now. And while I have several printers with octopus boards in em. None have spiders anymore
Massive cost savings too! One $65 USD board vs 2 $55 USD boards.
Is it necessary to break the stepper stick leg for tmc2209 sensorless homing? Like the SKR1.4?
No
Not at all, jumpers for connecting to diag pins for each socket to their corresponding endstop.
Where can I find printable picture or stl-s of onlybenchies label?
Great review, thanks! For a Voron 2.4, would you prefer it over a Spiderboard? Ah, sorry didn't what the end before writing this... ;) Ok, looking forward to your comparisions! Is it possible to power the raspi with this board? the spider is able to, isn't it?
this is nice!! makes those OTC 3dp's look very poor!! 6 motion control slots! I wander if this board can read ABC axis???most need EEprom flashed!!
I would love 2 incorporate this!! super slick! tell me U have more vids on this?? good 1 !!
Interesting to see CANBUS mentioned in a printer, I thought that was just in cars. Or is this just a happenstance crossover of terms and its a totally different thing.
It's a general local networking protocol, and is used on all kinds of things besides cars.
which do you think is better, octopus or spider?
Do you know what the max amount of neopixels is for this board ?
I can’t find anything about it in the official documentation 😖
Have a robo 3d r1 plus and thimkimg of upgrading to this board but unsure really on wiring. Is there a guide to such?
Impressive video, I’m stuck with my Voron build, well maybe not stuck, this board has 2 sets of outputs for the bed, one is marked bed power and the other is just marked bed, I’ve never had a SSR before and think I should connect to the bed output and not the bed power. Is that right?
For someone building a Rat Rig core 3, planning to use klipper for things like input shaping with an accelerometer, hesitating between for example a BTT Octopus 1.1, or a variant of the BTT SKR Pro, what would you recommend ? Do either bench the same in terms of step frequency for klipper ? thanks!
Great video! I'm kind of new to all this but tinker with everything form time to time. One question I couldn't find answered anywhere is: If this is suitable for the Creality CR10 Max? I've read that other boards from BTT are not suitable because the CR10 Max has 2 separate PSU's that couldn't be wired correctly. I'd buy the Octopus in a heartbeat if it can be confirmed compatible with the CR10 Max setup. Thanks in advance!
I’m curious if you already own some of those ESP8266 boards if you can add WiFi without buying the board specific one.
looks nice!!
A 36v PSU should be fine if its got a potentiometer for adjustment. It should be able to go +-3v from that number on the lable. All ways check with a multimeter of course 👍
Hello Nero! Thank you for the review of this board!
You shortly ran over the fan outputs, and i would like to know what the octopus can deliver of wattage on 12 volt on one output .
I'm asking because I have a waterpump, and it pulls 15 watts, is the octopus capable of that?
Because that would be a "add to basket reason" for me, then I don't need a separate converter for it anymore.
Cheers, thanks for all you content
I may diggest to use in this specific case an external mosfet driver driven by the fan out slot, more safe and convenient
@@CallistoPili been running for a month, all good thanks
I wonder if the mosfet FAN ports are more "durable" than on the SKR 1.4 boards?
Is there a way to add ethernet to octopus board instead of wi-fi? Probably a ethernet breakout board with UART or SPI interface. Looking to connect my RPi remote server to 3d printer.
Nice video. Are the caps through-hole?
Did you ever do that comparison?
Both work just fine when they work. And really theres zero performance difference.
BUT
The spider has had qc issues and lots of smokey boards. Thus id say go with the octopus
Nice, waterrot has 5160's hv back in stock
Hey Nero, love your tutorials, they're a HUGE help in putting together my Voron 2.4.... just on the probe, can you clarify, you remove the black signal wire but where does it go then as XYZ endstops already wired in.... please help!! :)
Refer to the wiring diagram in the manual. But basically i pulled ground and vin from the sensor plug. Then the sense pin went to the numbered pin on a free endstop
Doesn't the Prusa Mark 3 use independent drivers on Z?
Nope, the einsy rambo only has 4 stepper drivers. So the Z motors are tied together
A common trick people do is ram the gantry into the top of the frame to tram it out....
I suddenly have a desire to make a Hydra-themed 3D printer, with a giant Hydra logo on the build surface.
All Hail Hydra!
Hi…. Can I use my old stepper driver from skr 1.4 turbo 2209 cut pin on this? Thanks in advance
7:40 this is SPI3 not RaspberryPi (Pi can be powered from the UART connection you refered to 4:51)
did you have to remove and add jumper pins?
Yes, had to set jumpers for uart on the 2209`s, and for setting voltages for fans and sensor
@@CanuckCreator It will be reat if you can share a photo of your wiring over at the discord server. Thanks for replying!
Hi! What about Klipper? It is necessary to connect an Raspi to it in order to run it? Thanks
Yes. Klipper needs an rpi
Hi, I have to connect Octopus motherboard to 7 servo motors with Delta Asda B2 and B3 drive. Can you help me that, please.
Thanks
Why you dont power the rasp pi in your voron directly from the BTT Octopus?
The RPI was already hooked up to a 5v powersupply, just easier to leave it as is. lol
I did test it running off the octopus though, no issues.
@@CanuckCreator Do you think the powersuplly from the board is strong enough to power a raspi pi 4b with a TFT Screen connected directly to the rasppi?
@@danielw1337 Should be fine
I am fairly new to 3D printing. That said I am a fast learner and am looking at putting together a custom printer that will fit what I need. 1000×1000×1000 for rapid mold prototyping.
Is there a good source for programming and configuration of a bord like that?
New outro music? Pretty nice
So now we're back to needing a better power supply, as all the voltage lines are used up?
a new octopus pro version about to be released, specs not yet confirmed
can u use this board to run a cnc machine a plasma cutting cnc table ?
Going to wait for a 1.1 version, hopefully they add 50v caps
nope, brand new V1.1 has 35V caps still...
@@paulsomero ah ffs, maybe a competitor steps in
@@thiagokeizo I dunno about you, but I'd be super sketched out running much more than 24V through one of those tiny TMC board modules using questionably flimsy 0.1 header pins. You'll start to find yourself in territory where things like creep and clearance and just general rules of thumb for insulating and separating things will become relevant. They pack them in so tight that they're bumping edges by default. IMO, if you're getting into a higher power range, you should be using more conventional motor driver units that are monolithic blocks like a gecko drive (just an example, not endorsing) which is in its own housing with a higher degree of ruggedness.
Have you done a Klipper vs Marlin video?
Havent had a machine with marlin in years....
Nero 3dp Ive never tried Klipper yet, but looking to. Not really for racing and super speed, but wanting reliable, accurate production. But most of what I see of Klipper on YT is high speed trials.
@@soundmindtv2911 i built a voron after using a creality cr-6 and a prusa mini for several months, Klipper once you learn the ropes and get comfortable with it is on a different level. It's vastly superior in all fields, which is why people use it for speedy prints.
lap87 thanks for that response!! I’ll definitely be going that direction. Already stockpiling parts for my future voron ☺️
Hello and thanks for the great videos 👍 If you are currently ordering a 2.4, which board should you go with?
BTT Octopus (///ω///)
@@bigtreetech5117 give me a rabatt cupon and i will 😁
@@minga85 is that "rebate"?
Is it any kind of problem that my PSU (Ender 5 plus, all orig. atm) doesn`t have enough outputs? It`s mostly chinese symbols on there, but 500 is prob. the wattage., 24V. 21A from what I can decifer. How would a professional deal with that issue? I doubt shoving in 2 fork cable lugs in the first 2 slots (1st + and 1st -) is a recommended solution, is it? (It`s what I came up with) The printer is all DC, no fruity AC stuff in my bed.(No judgement either, js) Only the cables from the Mosfet to the board look a bit, underwhelming. Actually most cables on the cheapo chinese production that is the mighty "Ender 5 plus" are
we have the board a cable and a big tree rubber ducky (squeak squeak) lol my wife laughed and said men never grow up
I don't want to grow up. I'm a Toys 'R Us kid.
On my board, I can't start the extruder motors, they just don't work. I don't even know what settings to watch yet.
Can this board power a Raspberry Pi or do I still need the 5v power supply?
I wouldn’t because the 5V regulator feeds the 3.3V regulator, and pulling too much from the 5V can shut down the 3.3V. Also, powering the Raspberry Pi through the PIO would bypass the power protection circuit on the Pi.
can someone tell me why wont the extruder work or is just my board
ever heard of ESD?
You really want them to spend money on packaging?
I hate fancy packaging. I always wonder how much less I could have paid if they just used a brown cardboard box.
I also hate throwing out the nice packaging. What a waste of resources.
Now that I've vented, I'll want the rest of the video.
I agree the world could do without fancy ass packaging, after all all your going to do with it is throw it in the recycling bin, this new trend should not be encouraged.
Why is the outro music 2x louder than the rest of the video?
Just checked. Accidently dropped the audio for it in the same timeline as the voiceover. Which got bumped up a bit.
My bad
Can i use this in a voron v0 ?
You....could.....
@@CanuckCreator haven't built a v0 myself, is it too large for the v0?
Oh probably. This board..while it will work on a zero is massivly overkill for it
you could technically run 2 v0's with one of these boards, just get something cheaper and better suited to the application.
@@mocotonio I could actually get the this cheaper than a skr mini, hence my question. But I decided to just go for the skr mini as I know very little about this stuff.
couldnt you recap the board?
I got the Octopussy for a couple of months now and really love it!
Even the RAMPS 1.4 had more servo ports
Lost so much time on the E motor being the fifth pololu socket and not the fourth ! grrrrr
Im a fan of what some board manufacturers are doing now where they are moving to naming the motors just M0-M7 (or however many steppers are on the board)
Board labeling doesnt matter, its all firmware configuration dependent for motor assignment
Good price for just the board.
I had a top comment. Telling people where to find the configuration. Why is it gone?
Why are you glad for expensive printed boxes that get thrown in the trash. I don't want to pay for that. Put some cool art on your website. I don't want to pay for the box. I want the board to designed well.
Agree a fancy box is not something that should be praised
Are you keeping the packaging for yourself as a display item or just throwing it in the bin? It seems like a massive waste to be Producing packaging that is using excessive resources
If one board is saved from shipping damage it pays for the manufacturing of 100 proper boxes.
@@mrfrenzy. definitely need proper packaging and foam internally but a plain cardboard box offers just as protection.
usb C! sold
No regular FSMC, sad.
hand hands HANDS hands hands hanhands hands hands. Dunno what he said but ffs HANDS
wires that costs more than half ender 3 v2
Yes they are pricey. But if you factor in the material cost of the high quality wire used and the man hours it takes to build the loom yourself...it isnt that bad really
@@CanuckCreator have to agree I'm going to buy a good quality wiring loom, I'll keep the wire that came with my kit for something else.
These boards are so damn cheap the only thing holding me back is my printer (cr-10 v2) and the headache of switching. I think I may be a coreXY in the future with that MCU.