Can an old Ender 3 be upgraded to be as good as a new printer? I test it out with the new SKR3 EZ.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2022
- Seriously, the basic upgrade probably takes about 3 hours, which isn't bad going from scratch. If you have marlin experience already then you might even get it down to an hour and half. Well worth doing.
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- The calibration model shown in the video has been given to patrons free of charge -
Links:
Manual and setup files for this board: bigtree-tech.com/pages/download
Teaching tech's case: www.printables.com/model/1801...
Klipper: www.klipper3d.org/Installatio...
Really useful article I forgot to mention: 3dprintbeginner.com/hotend-an...
I promised a link to the crimping tool but I can't find a reliable source, the ones I use are the "engineer PA-09" but also if you can find "iwiss" branded ones then bigclive swears by those and they are cheaper (amazon sku code B08BCFQCW3).
Forgot anything? Let me know. Need help? Join discord (see above)
Klipper is a pain in the butt when starting out but configuration is so much easier once you get the hang of it.
That's the impression I got
I agree. The big problem for me was converting from Marlin. Because I had a reference and wanted all the options available. But once you spend some time, it's a breeze. You don't even have to walk to your printer anymore. It's just "Save & restart".. BOOOM! Done..
Yeah haha, I spent all night walking between my computer and my printer. Starting to become more familiar now a few weeks in!
Imo it's way easier than compiling marlin even when just getting started out.
For me, it's not that configuration is necessarily easier with Klipper, it's just the fact that you don't need to recompile the firmware every time you need to change something. That gets annoying quickly with Marlin. Lol
This conversions, of values and measures, they just continue to amaze me.
Love the way that u make things sound easier to understand
I'd like to commend you, your videos are always helpful, approachable and just A+ overall. Thanks 🙏
I like your pragmatic style of video production. You clearly prepare what you're going to say, but then your narration is casual and conversational. And your visuals are simple but illustrative. I think that's a good recipe for conveying a lot of useful information and ideas efficiently, without the process becoming exhausting for you. I predict this channel has a bright future.
Very much appreciated, and I hope you are right! 👍 Plenty more to come
@@LostInTech3D i think he is right. thanks a lot for the work you're doing. (edit) I also really appreciate that you're doing video's focusing on the more far out, less common aspects of 3DP'ing such as co-extrusion or "tpu cheat codes". I haven't seen those yet but I'm near certain other creators aren't putting them out. cheers.
Another great video, TYVM for your time to produce. I'm about to do the mobo swap to a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 w/ TMC2209 drivers under the schmick long heat-sink, and matching TFT35 E3 V3.0 Touchscreen, which apparently has room for a wifi board as well. I got the Mini about three moths ago due to a windfall, and the display a few weeks ago, and of course I forgot the wifi module, which'll take until after Christmas now with the increase in parcel volume...
I'll try and take pics during the upgrade and maybe a few frames of video. I'm not much for production values (==nil post, nil edit...) but will PM.
The ender screen works natively on klipper if you add the appropriate screen information to printer.cfg
...I'm gonna need that... 👍
@@LostInTech3D this is for the ender3 pro screen and the BTT SKR 3.
[displayl
lcd_type: st7920
Cs_pin: EXP1_7
sclk_pin: EXP1_6
sid_pin: EXP1_8
encoder_pins: ^EXP1_5, ^EXP1_3 click pin: ^!EXP12
(output_pin beeper]
pin: EXP1_1
[board_pins]
aliases:
EXP1_1=PC5, EXP1_3=PB1, EXP1_5-PE10, EXP1_7=PE12, EXP1_9=,
EXP1_2=PBO, EXP1_4-PE9, EXP1_6-PE11, EXP1_8=PE13, EXP1_10=,
EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_3=PE7, EXP2_5-PB2, EXP2_7=PC4, EXP2_9=,
EXP2_2=PA5, EXP2_4-PA4, EXP2_6=PAZ, EXP2_8=, EXP2_10=
@@LostInTech3D screen bed mesh follows.
Step 1 Edit printer.cfg and add these sections: [include mesh Bed.cfgl
[include levelCorner.cfg]
And I've sent the files you your diacord
Excellent, I'll do it after I've....sigh
...reassembled the printer later tonight 😂 that's showbiz for ya.
I knew I could make my Ender 3 v2 screen work and thought it would be an immediate must, but I've actually gotten used to not using it & I don't even care anymore.
I'm glad you emphasized the danger, I have had an SKR Mini e3 v1.2 installed in my Ender 3 for a few years now.
About a month ago I noticed a weird burning plastic smell coming from my printer so I shut it down and inspected it, didn't see anything funky so I took the motherboard cover off and saw that the power connector on the motherboard had melted.
It was my fault, I didn't crimp on a ferule for the power wires so over time the clamp weakened and caused resistance to spike driving the heat generation.
Thankfully I caught it before anything worse happened
7:41 Some of us even enjoy hunting for the text that is only on screen for a split second. I'm not sure if I belong to that group but yes, io jokes are fun,
Currently working through this with my OG CR-10, already did it once with a MKS GenL (the 8bit one just before the 32bit boards starting coming out) and 2208's , now for the SKR 3 EZ and 2209's plus adding in smart filament run out and a cr-touch. Going to be some fun times and many many many choice words :P
Thank you for completing the script for my BTT SKR 3 video. Your contributions are greatly appreciated
You are very welcome. I hope you can at least get some more views with it :D
I upgraded my ender 3 V2 to klipper a couple weeks ago, I have to confess I was scared, had no idea what I was doing, and it took several days to get all the configurations done. But now I can't imagine my life without it lol. The real advantage over the stock setup is wifi printing, and input shaper, pressure advance too but you can get that on marlin and an upgraded main board. Anyways it prints faster and better than ever now, and no matter where I am in the house I have the printer's display in my pocket, and a camera to monitor the print.
with the board in this viideo? if so other thee the z probe di you have to redo any of the other wire plugs? like the pinoutss?
I did a similar thing on my Ender 3 using an old Duet2Wifi + Klipper an the results where amazing! It's incredible what a Klipper did to such simple and inexpensive machine.
I'm getting ready to install this board into a Taz 6 with bltouch. Finding a config may be tricky, I'm very very new to this lol. Ty for the video tho, it did help me piece some....pieces together ☺️
Actually the SKR boards were the reason I like the original Ender 3 for tinkering. Marlin 2.x and all the I/O on an SKR allows for a lot of cheap upgrades. F.e. I use Unified Bed Leveling (UBL) with a
To see the real power of Klipper you have to do the resonance testing with an ADXL and the Pressure Advance tuning. Night and day difference in results of prints even with the stock 4.2.2 board. I just converted an Ender with the 4.2.2 and Klipper a few weeks ago and I am seriously impressed.
Ah, I'll get around to all that stuff, its been why it took me so long to even get to klipper tbh. You have a lot of legwork once you start. It's literally a can of worms.
@@LostInTech3D also, marlin now also supports input shaping so, that's cool I think
@@Lucas_sGarage S Curve on Marlin is pretty awesome too, as is the new Linear Advance that now supports the standalone drivers on the 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards.
That said, Klipper has the advantage of totally offloading the processing to the external processor, leaving the MCU to just control your steppers and not have to process the G Code really does help accuracy. Also, Marlin can't (as of today) use an accelerometer to detect all your resonances, and this is a big advantage with Klipper.
skr is such a game changer for the ender .that its realy worth the time and investment in a new board .also the noise diffrence .is realy noticible
Great video, you're tempting me to try it. Also, it sounds like a Neptune S2 in the background, lol.
Hehe, nope, good guess though 👍
Amazing video. Especially the extra extruder stepper is nice to have for a future extra modification (multi color? 😁). One thing I was hoping to see also was the sensorless homing with 2209s you get. If it works nice then we don’t need to used stop switches at all 😁 and can skip that part of the video.
I can do a video specifically on sensorless homing, I'll write it down
This channel is really great
I agree 👍
I upgraded the board to my Ender 2. It runs quiet now. Still works great after all these years.
I bought a SKR mini e3 as an upgrade to my Ender3 just around two years ago, and I can concur that upgrading your printer sounds a lot more daunting than it really is; my only real tip I'd give folks is to take a few pictures with your phone during the disassembly, that way you can always backtrack if you lose track of which wire goes where. But yeah, the instructions were perfectly clear and repeatable, I'd personally recommend BTT any day of the week.
It's a shame I tend to use my hardware until it physically breaks so I don't exactly have a need for an upgrade, but it's still fascinating seeing where the developments are heading; those drivers in particular seem very interesting, I wouldn't be surprised if that form factor took root on boards that need a bunch of them (like, just as an example, but something like the Octopus Pro with its eight drivers)
Definitely agree on taking photos as you go. I can't say enough how many times that saved me in the possibly 100;s of times I have rebuild old bed slingers. I'm kinda addicted to buying factory return enders on eBay for 60-90 $. Most of them ( it seems) are fine. The scenario I imagine is someone buying a printer. opens box, gets 1/3 into assembly then they get stuck on something. Bad assembly instructions or whatever, say screw it and stuffs everything back inbox. I got a ender 3 for 65 that was missing 1 5mm screw. Anyway either photos on your phone or video the tear downs and you have a record of what's what.
My SKR mini E3 burned X driver. For a rescue I put back MKS Gen L with 8 bit Atmel and TMC2208 , yet I was already running Klipper and Klipper made whole thing still running nice with no more than 60% of Atmel load. Klipper might be one of the best upgraded .
Be very careful with LEDs. Use the power for the RGBs directly from your power supply and a buck converter. I installed 10 WS2812b LEDs on my SKR Pico and it blew the fuse of the board. Luckily, I had ordered a few fuses on ALI and replaced it.
I'm still using a Ramps 8 bit board with Marlin 2.1.2. My printer has independent dual Z levelling, klicky probe bed mesh levelling, input shaper, a HGX lite diy direct drive extruder, diy encoder optical filament detection and can print at 150m/s with okay results.... I'm happy.
I quite enjoyed your video. I just wish I had a backup printer to print a new case. Unfortunately, I just killed my SKR Mini E3 V2.0. I was cleaning the nozzle on my Ender 3 Pro with a metal brush. A very bad thing to do by the way. The metal brissels got down on the heater cartridge and then there were a few sparks and no display. The power supply still works as the leds in my enclosure still works, but nothing else does. I checked out the display with my older 8- bit board and that worked. The big 20Amp fuse is still good. So, it looks like I fried my board which apparently does not have any protection circuitry so don't do what I did. I could just use another SKR Mini, but I kind of like a board with replaceable drivers.
You should be able to get the ESP12 and 32 to work with ESP3D. I have it working on the SKR 2.0 with Marlin.
I made the genius decision to take apart my Ender 5 and build a corexy with a Voron's xy printed parts. The real issue wasn't the hodgepodge of extrusions and ABS, it was thinking, "I'm sure I can figure out how to get klipper going in an evening".
I have to say though, after I had a solid grasp on klippers way of doing things, I can never go back. AND I still have so much room to improve. Print quality is great, but firmware retraction (adjusting retraction live) and the vast world of klippers macros have my interest.
Haha, I fell into that trap too. You can _install_ klipper in an evening...
upgraded both of my ender 3 and ender 3 v2 to klipper/fluidd with skr btt mini e3 v2 and rpi 4 (and other upgrades). lots of advantages over using marlin such as wifi printing, responsive and intuitive UI and controls, input shaping and pressure advance for faster printing. modifying your configs has never been easier. however, the price of raspberry pis are stupid expensive now due to the shortage and demand.
TBH Marlin and Klipper are offering the same now. With these stupid fast 32 bit controllers and Marlin2 the speed limitations are gone. Both offers wifi printing, linear advance, input shaping. and responsive UI. The only difference is where the math is done (on a PI or on an STM32 contorller). Maybe the small nuances as Klipper has a fancy accelerometer based calibration for input shaping while Marlin has broader hardware compatibility.
A modern SKR mini and Klipper with the corresponding sensors can certainly breathe new life into even a base Ender 3.
lol and here i am about to upgrade my ender 3 fleet to the creality board you took out :D :D
ofc, with sonic pad
🤣 don't do it
I just got an SKR E3 Turbo for my Ender-5 at the beginning of this year, so I ain't in the market for an upgrade, but these new stepper drivers do look really neat for potential future projects.
I got a BTT Octopus Max EZ to upgrade my Ender 6 with plenty of room to trick it out later and a Pi 5 for klipper.
Your print improvements are mainly from the better stepper drivers and faster CPU. The CPU never bottlenecks. This means no matter how big your file is, or no matter how fast you run your printer, you never see blobs on your print (printer will not stutter). If you really wanna see improvements then tune pressure advance and input shaper on klipper.... Its super easy and quick to do. U can get an ender3 printing like a profesional grade printer.
Agreed on pressure advance and input shaper! They are both a lot easier to tune than I first imagined
That is what I thought. He replaced 32 bit board with faster 32 bit board. It`s nice that it is quiet and have some additional outputs for future upgrade but the rest ? ARM Ender 3 board can also get newer Marlin or even Klipper. Even step sticks replace if you are persistent to do so. I don`t see a reason to change board until I will need some feature.
I’m nervous and anxious as I order a new board to try this and look forward to klipper 😅
Awesome video though keep it up
What’s the name of those connectors for
the endstop?
Thanks in advance
they come in the box, I am not sure what they are but you get plenty enough supplied.
You used teaching tech's enclosure labelled for the skr3 mini?
6:10 I didn't want to get a crimping set and tool for so long, but honestly it's just like getting an assortment of M2-M5 screws and such. it's SO worth it, having the stuff you need (and organised :p)
I got the IWISS IWS-2820 from aliexpress with a jst-xh kit, for around 30€. It's not super easy to use at times, and I know there are those ones with swappable "teeth" for different plugs, as with both dupont and jst-xh connectors, I have to crimp them twice. But they're very universal so far at least, I even use them to crimp end caps on my bike gear/brake cables haha. Can definitely recommend
I've yet to find a tool that does a proper clean crimp first time, it's more an art than a science for sure!
@@LostInTech3D I suppose that's the benefit of the tool I bought. as you have a very thin surface that crimps and bends the connector, you get a lot of control. which leaves it a lot more down to your accuracy and tolerances, instead of a tool automagically doing it (and failing to do so a lot, if it's a crap tool)
I've been loving Klipper too, as I've ranted about already on discord :) That board is sweet! Didn't know the new drivers looked that way. Can it do sensorless homing?
It can, and I have agreed to do an episode on that 👍😉
@@LostInTech3D aw yis
Would you be able to post a link to the Marlin firmware file you used? I have been able to successfully compile, I start the printer up, then nothing happens, just a blank screen. The firmware file is renamed to .cur but the printer doesn't work
I don't have an Ender 3 but I do have a Tevo Tarantula Pro and I could easily apply this video to it. Also, there are easy ways to install Klipper on other alternatives to the ridiculously expensive Raspberry PI. I have a Pi so that's no big deal. KIAUH makes things easy. Intel Mini PC or an Orange PI come to mind.
2:37 the reason is because the skr 1.4 (non turbo) tops at 330mm/s on marlin while printing a round part, with this Marlin can spread his legs a lot more
I have just bought an Ender 3 Neo Max, and find it funny that Creality put a silent board in yet still add the most noisy fans in existence.
I decided to update my ender 3 v2 Neo with this exact board so I could have duel Z control plus a ton of other features that don't work well if at all with the stock Creality 4.2.2 board. Well apparently there are different revisions of this board now and I got one that has a even faster 550Mhz CPU STM32H723VG and a few other small QOL changes. But and this is a HUGE BUTT!!! BTT nor any other Marlin builds support this CPU yet... I've tried building it with the old SMT32H743Vx as my listed CPU and although the pins and all other hardware related parts are the same it just wont work no matter what I do... So I have a really nice 3D printer board with 5x SMT2209 drivers that is basically a paper weight...
can you share your marlin configs. Im doign this exact control board upgrade and im having problems with the LCD screen, I'd like to see what options to enable.
Printer guy from left field here ,,,,,, my question is can this be used on an flashforge creator max. I have one sitting with a bad board ant the cost of flashforge boards is nuts ,,,, anyway want to say I always enjoy your videos 💯💥👍
Thanks!
Not super familiar with flashforge, but I can't think why not. I'd have a quick look in the marlin example configs and see if there is already anything there!
Did you need any special adapter to use the original Ender 3 display (1 ribbon cable, I guess)? I thought only SKR E3 boards have correct pinout on the EXT ports.
No it works fine as is
Do you have comparison print between old and new board? Running Klipper on v1.1.4 (8bit) currently. Need to get a board anyway later this year and could put it in my ender 3 until then
At this point I'd probably recommend an all in one board like the manta I have waiting for installation.
With this board all "older" printers gets a super upgrade....
I am a total Klipper fan. Have an i3 Mega S on Klipper and it works total nice, my Sidewinder X1 has also Klipper and it works much much better with it. Sure my Voron V0.1 works only with Klipper 🙂
And yes Klipper is not for beginners - the process of learning is high - but u can change in a minute the configuration ... and the finetuning is awesome. After a Year of Klipper i am still learning and find out more and more.... Marlin? whats this? a fish?? 🙂
Let’s open the “Mainsail” on our boat - ride the “Fluid”, catch something, “Klipper” into small bits and make a nice “Octo-pi” in the “CNC Kitchen”. Don’t Prusa me overboard, we need to work together - as a “Duet”.
I’m out….
I got ine question. As my old creality board stopped working tday(running on klipper) and i was used to set the vref directly in the drivers how is this done here?
Directly in klipper via the current in the printer. Cfg file?
Kr and thx very much!!
Yeah you set stepper current in the config file on these boards if I remember correctly
@@LostInTech3D oh thts great news thx very much!!
No more annoying potti turning while looking at the multimeter!!!
Yeah I don't miss those days!!
Links to your recommended crimping tools?
Still waiting for decent instructions for my other SKR boards.
Oh, is this kind of manual a new thing?
Nope. Manuals for every board out there. The trick is to read them ;)
Also I think you've promised a link to a crimping tool. Or you haven't promised it but it's still needed ;)
Oh yes - I knew there was something I forgot!
I'm curious as well!
hoping they'll make an actual "e3" model later
I would highly recommend NOT doing your dual boot thing on the printer. Flash can only be written a certain number of times and you will kill it quickly if you keep swapping.
I think two things really can make an old printer perform close to a new printer. Hotend upgrade and MCU / Mainboard update. The old creality hotends were pretty dodgy really, built to a price and not really a lot of experience. The old Melzi boards were good, but 8bit, limited memory really struggle with any new features.
The powerful MCU on the BigTreeTech board is great if you are running Marlin as Marlin does all the processing on the MCU. Not really much of an advantage for Klipper, that processes everythign externally. I'd likely go for the SKR E3 Mini board in preference on an Ender 3. That is designed to be the same size as the old Creality boards and has the drivers already soldered onboard, and it literally is plug and play as far as hardware goes. Big Tree Tech also have a MANTA board, which has the CB1 or SM4 provision on the board and the MANTA E3 is designed to be a direct drop in replacement for the Creality board, as in it is the same size. This gives you the Raspberry Pi equivalent and printer control board all on the one board that just drops in.
Raspberry Pi is not actually the best way to run Klipper these days, The cost of a Raspberry Pi is ridiculous. Use an alternative, like the one from Big Tree Tech if you want to stay in one place.
I've had 2 SKR boards. Both garbage. 1 Lasted about a month and the second one I never bothered with because one of the steppers slots didn't work at all and I had to remap the firmware to use the last stepper slot as Y axis. The stepper litterally had no power at the pin on the board. I went duet clones on both printers and never looked back. Way easier programming and much more reliable and included Wifi.
youtube full o vendors and not more helper! klipper and a old computer(or virtual machine in you computer) and your old 3d printer motherboard work like marlin and skr3 ez and EZ5160 pro!
"Let me know what you think in the comments"
I think some of the new trends in 3D printing are certainly much needed improvements, while at the same time, I also think that some consumerism trends have crept into what was and should remain a DIY-centric hobby.
I really wanted to convert one of my printers to klipper. But I just can't wrap my head around it for some reason. I tend to over think things, and finally threw in the towel. I have it on my Pi, but haven't finished the process because I don't want to ruin my printer that is printing just fine.
I'm going to be doing a LOT more klipper content, so hang in there.
Yep the stock ender lcd gives me mild epilepsy/brain damage 😜 probably the low frame/refresh rate+ wierd backlight pwm. All my machines now have btt tfts/ wifi only
have you done the ESP3D thing? I'm curious about it but its almost unheard of in the community
@@LostInTech3D nope-
right now my (skr board) printers are hooked up via octopi on a old£30 buck netbook(thanks thebay)
And I've installed 2 fystec e4s on the other 2 ..it's a good value board- for only 30 brit bux you get 4 tmc2209s and wifi( via its esp32 'cpu') it runs marlin and esp3d web ui- not keen on the tiny(physically) 50A mosfets tho
I recently tried to set it up esp3d again for a friend's ender3 and had tons of problems (needed to rewrite firmware- editing flash size[newer esp01 have smaller flash] ) also couldnt get write to sd working fast enough/reliably(serial write speeds to the sd of 8 bit boards is waaay too slow and prone to corruption.also I think I got 3 fake esp01(/killed them) modules before I finally got it to work
One thing I want to try is run reprap firmware on one of my skr1.4s so I can modify the firmware on the run without vscode. It is possible- btt has actually made a breakout board which allows you to turn a skr1.4 into a "duet2"
Hm, I wonder how hard it would be to use that for Dual Z, since it seems most other boards (SKR mini) simply split the output, or use a splitter board (Creality's own solution)
I've not tried, but I should try really, I will look into getting a 2nd z rod and see what happens!
With Klipper I just used the original creality board for my dual z axis (axeeeese?) and an SKR Mini for everything else
You can use the spare driver socket to command a second z axis motor and achieve auto z levelling too!
Dual z isn't that hard. I have mine setup on the 2nd E1 driver and it automatically sets it up as long as you get your firmware setup correctly. It's nice and easy. I'm having problems with the part cooling fans not being turned on during my prints. G34 works, G29, everything else
I mean, if one isn't using the 5th stepper driver, you'd get all those benefits from an SKR mini E3 for less than half the price.
Hard to pick a winner, I think maybe Marlin had a bit less ringing in the test articles?
yeah I think klipper could be tuned better, its not a particularly fair test given I have 2+ years experience with marlin and 0 with klipper haha, but more klipper content is on the way to balance it out!
Ugh don’t show me this after I just spent hours upgrading my V1.1 with Klipper, not using an Arduino Uno like a normal person but an Arduino Mega because I only had Megas and Nanos 😭 I know I can upgrade to a 32-bit board.
I haven’t printed yet, it’s been a while since I’ve printed, hopefully the prints look good!
Edit: I’m confused, maybe it’s because I’m posted in 2023 but klipper has bed mesh leveling too, not sure why it wasn’t mentioned
3d printing is a funny industry. most of the hardware existed for decades now, the only thing that actually changes is the software.
like, you could totally build a 3d printer 30 years ago, nothing on the hardware side really changed since then, but building a software for it was impractical because you needed a full expensive dedicated desktop just to run it, which made it such an inaccessible market no company would bother developing it.
3:10 RGB gaming 3D printer
Doesn't look like a big improvement for me since I have a 2021 ender 3 v2 with custom firmware (jyers ubl)
The ender 3 v2 board has the drivers in legacy mode, although for most people I guess it wouldn't be something they would find out routinely.
@@LostInTech3D what does that mean? Legacy mode?
haven't watched it, but my gauss is yes
Ender 3 v2 profiles no longer avalible on ur website? :(
I never realized how much people use them 😂 I will fix it asap
@@LostInTech3D 💕️
Didn't really hear, but I'll go with "Titan" :D
you are correct!
I have 2 ender 3's that have been reflashed to support the 'then' latest marlin firmware. Absolutely no need to upgrade them. They work. A faster MCU will make no difference because the machine is usually waiting to extrude.
I use a Rpi with Repetier that gives me wifi and remote access. Works wonderully. 2 printers run off 1 Rpi and I could get up to 4 printers running off 1 Rpi. The Rpi is where the horsepower needs to be if anywhere.
I don't think it's comparable ...that wouldn't even be silent drivers?
@@LostInTech3D I have dampers on the motors. So I don't get a lot of noise.
Please explain what benefit a faster MCU/CPU will give ? The steppers are driven at the same rates. Maybe using Trinamic drivers give a better microstep noise response but other than that I can't see any other benefit.
Someone already answered it extensively in another comment, better than I can.
I thought Marlin was a firmware to run the printer or you could use the Klipper to run it instead? So why you putting two firmware's that do the same thing onto 1 printer!
I hearing some printer modder's saying use kipper not marlin and other the other way. S I don't understand why both put on 1 printer when others do either but never both.
Plus £70 for a new printer main board stuff that, that's way too pricey. You could buy a new budget printer for a little more than that.
1. Klipper firmware is equivalent to Marlin, so yes essentially you choose one or the other.
2. A £70 printer is going to make you wish you had upgraded your ender 3 instead 👍 the entry price for a printer equivalent to this upgrade would be maybe a Neptune 3 at $2xx
@@LostInTech3D Indeed. I have a setup like you mentioned. Not same hardware, but "CAN" run my E3 with Klipper ór Marlin if I need to use it Offline.
@@TuncayAyhan you don't need an internet connection for klipper/mainsail/fluidd to work, it's all local
@@alecumihnea LOL, I know that. I'm a long time user. But if you don't have network connection and still want to use Klipper, you'll need a hotspot. So that's when Marlin comes in handy.
@@TuncayAyhan klipperscreen then. No reason to use marlin
Anyone have creality3d v1.1.4 motherboard.... I want to buy
Its much more interesting upgrading old printers with new parts not a ender 3 or i3 that all modern printers are based on
is it cheating to just turn it into a swithwire
Just Klipper with the original board would have made it an all new printer. Seriously.
so instead on pins, its pci. nice
Basically!
How much difference does a 32 bit board really make? Seems overkill to me.
It's faster, but it's also my understanding that certain calculations need 32 bit. I've not spent a lot of time looking into it. Speed is likely to be the main benefit with old atmega chips running at a lazy 16mhz.
From personal experience, high volume gcode (such as with very high detail models) can overwhelm slower processors (not just in the throughput based on the clock speed, but also because some operations - floating point calculations spring to mind - run in fewer cycles on 32bit µCs), in particular with systems like the E3 which have that "power loss recovery" feature that constantly writes the print progress to the SD card. It's nothing you couldn't work around, of course, but yeah, you'll run into less "bottlenecks", in addition to creature comforts like wifi/lighting control etc., all of which would have to be weighed more carefully on the "older" 8bit systems. If you've ever compiled Marlin and run out of PROM because you wanted ABL _and also_ menu text scrolling, you know what I mean xD Again, it's not that things didn't work with 8bit chips, the 32bit ones are just more capable; whether you take advantage of that is of course a matter of your specific use case.
Before disassemble.. print a case. Else you are screwed 😂
hahaha true
can you give me the printer.cfg ?
Oh man this was a looooooong time ago. The printer cfg was provided by btt, if you can't find it I think they can probably point you to it.
i found it but it didn't work :(
@@LostInTech3D
@@LostInTech3D but can you please help me i am already at the end with ideas on how it can work
Hop onto our discord and we might be able to diagnose whatever problem you have
@@LostInTech3D hi sorry for the late responde but i found the problem.
Klipper > marlin
My last experience with bigtree was so bad i just dont care to waste my money on them... Looks interesting tho..
Boost of speed new hot end, new bed surface, new fans, etc all add cash which could go a long way to getting a new 3D printer
The question is it worth it?
really what a waste of printerboard the standard bord in the ender 3 is already more then good enough and gives just as good prints with new marlin and octoprint or klipper installed
1. No it doesn't
2. The old board had ALLEGRO drivers on it. You knew that right?
@@LostInTech3D the only thing you changed was some noice that wasnt worth the boardprice and drivers
What not 64 bits 😅
klipper/python sks ballz, Marlin rules!
ALWAYS use solder in place of a crimp especially over 12v...
I own 5 ender 3’s. Put a cl touch on one and it hasn’t worked since. Creality had made The firmware upgrade process to complicated. And the others all have their issues . I’m tempted to rebuild these instead of buying all new printers but I failed at the cr touch. Not sure if I can handle all that. Lol
Thats all good and easy when you do it. I tried to install a skr v1.3 with tmc2208 steppers and it wont detect the endstops no matter what I do. Im this close to going back to my original mother board out of desperation. Is it worth the risk to try this board, with these steppers?