ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- This video shows how I replaced the transmission drive belt on my Cub Cadet LT42 XT1 Enduro series mower. I cover:
1. Taking off the drive pulley (0:00)
2. Cleaning the drive shaft bolt (5:05)
3. Taking the belt off and placing the new one on (13:10)
Parts diagram PDF: images.homedepot-static.com/c...
Detailed instructions:
Preparation
- Pull out the transmission bypass rod
- Remove the deck (you can find help on this in other videos)
- Push the mower up on ramps if desired
- Engage the parking brake
- Disconnect the battery
- Remove the hood: Open it, disconnect the wiring harness to the headlights, and pull straight up on the hood.
- Remove the filter cover
- Remove the filter. It pulls straight off.
- Remove the plastic engine cover (four bolts and one torx screw).
- Remove the starter (two nuts holding it up).
- Wedge a piece of wood into the starter hole that can block the flywheel.
- Get a breaker bar or socket wrench with a pipe and a 5/8" socket. Use at least 1/2" drive. Get a 4-pound hammer or similar if needed.
- Begin loosening the bolt holding the drive pulley. Move the wood as necessary. Remove the bolt.
- If you can't get it moving, a torch might be necessary. Do it at your own risk.
- At this point I removed the wood block from the starter hole, but it's not necessary.
- Take off the drive pulley. Keep up with the spacer above it should it slide off.
- If you want to get the red threadlocker off, follow the steps from the video. Or get a new bolt (part #710-06266). A bench vise can be helpful here.
Remove the belt
- Disengage the brake.
- Remove the spring that connects the black bar to the deck spring rod in the back. In the diagram PDF, this is the "spring extension" from the "drive system" page, part #732-05108. The black bar is on the "idler bracket assembly". Make sure you know how your deck spring rod goes in in case it falls out.
- With the spring off, unwind the belt from around the thinner idler pulley. It has a small piece of metal on the outside that you can slide the belt by.
- Take a 9/16" combination wrench and 9/16" socket wrench and remove the thicker idler pulley as shown in the video. In the video I said I used the ring end of the combination wrench but really you’ll want the open end.
- If you do this carefully enough, you don't even have to take the idler pulley and all its parts out. You can take the nut off, keep the bolt in place, lean the pulley over away from the bar, slide the belt out, and put the nut back on finger-tightened.
- Take the belt off the transmission, which requires sliding it off around the fan.
Place the new belt
- Get the new belt ready. Part #954-05027A, which has been replaced with 954-05027B. I ordered an OEM belt that covered belt models 754-05027, 754-05027A, 954-05027, and 954-05027A. It is 1/2"x91".
- Place the belt over the transmission, sliding it over the fan and then pulling to make sure it's fully around the transmission pulley. Ensure the "v" side of the belt goes into the pulley.
- Route the belt around the outside of the thinner idler pulley. The "v" side of the belt goes into this pulley.
- Feed the rest of the belt over the idler bracket towards the front of the mower.
- Take the nut back off the thicker idler pulley and feed the belt between the pulley and the black bar. Make sure the flat part of the belt is against the pulley.
- Make sure the other part of the belt is correctly aligned with the low spot on the black bar. Check the parts diagram PDF.
- Tighten the idler pulley all the way.
- Reconnect the spring to the idler bracket. If you are right-handed, slide your head in from the opposite side of the mower from the spring so you can use your right hand to pull on the spring with the pliers. If you are left-handed, come in from the same side as the spring.
- It's probably easier now to put the mower back up on a ramp.
- Engage the brake.
- Put the belt onto the drive pulley and slide the drive pulley on the drive shaft, taking note of the key and slot. Push it up into place.
- Put the bolt back in place, applying blue Loctite before if you stripped it clean of the old red threadlocker.
- Tighten the bolt with an impact wrench or breaker bar.
- Disengage the brake and test that when you spin the drive pulley, the belt and all other pulleys move.
Put it back together
- Now reverse all the steps from the first section.
- Put the starter back in.
- Put the plastic engine cover back on.
- Put the filter back on.
- Put the filter cover back on.
- Reconnect the battery.
- Push in the transmission bypass rod.
- Test that it drives before putting the hood and deck back on.
- If it drives okay, move ahead.
- Put the hood back on (Slide it straight down from the "open" position). Reconnect the headlight harness.
- Reconnect the mowing deck.
- Make sure it drives and mows. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I found this video extremely helpful in getting me oriented and understanding the belt setup, but my experience was far less painful and time-consuming. I did not have to remove or loosen any part of the engine, and the whole job took less than an hour. The two key things that made the job easier were: 1. I happened to have an air compressor ratchet gun - so loosening the Pulley wheel bolt took less the 5 seconds (didn't need to wedge the engine at all), and 2. The black plate that the two middle pulleys are on can be detached (not removed) by removing 6 small bolts. If you do that, then you can easily see the pulleys and the belt path. By loosening the bolt on the main center pulley (again - not removing it) it is possible to squeeze the belt in. Having that black plate detached also gives enough slack so that the belt can be fed around the rear transmission pulley first, and then over the front drive pulley (you do have to remove the front pulley first and re-attach it loosely after looping the belt over it). After the belt is properly in place then align and re-attach the black plate - not hard at all. As I say, less than an hour total time, and half of that was removing and re-installing the deck (and sharpening the blades).
Seriously, thank you for this tip. I’ve been throwing wrenches and cussing up a storm trying to get these stupid spacers and washers to line up.
worked like charm-thanks for the tip
I used a pipe wrench in the middle of the drive shaft to keep it in place while working out the bolt with a breaker bar. Like a few others in the comments said, I ended up taking the plate off in the middle that holds the pullies. Seemed like a better solution than working blind trying to get the belt through. I was wrong. I had a few choice words when two rods, a spring and, a pin fell out. I had to take a break at this point because I was ready to burn the world down. After this long pause, I looked up the schematics on Cub Cadet's site I was able to figure out where it all went back in. Not a simple job for a part that is so crucial. If I would have known it was this difficult I would have bought a different brand of mower. But it's all back together. Hopefully another stick doesn't make it's way back up into the pully and break another belt.
Thanks for all this. I had a broken drive belt also on the 46 inch version of the Cub Cadet . As we know it looks pretty nasty getting the job done. As it turned out I had an easier time than some. The engine end double pulley removed without problems using a Harbour Freight electric impact wrench. Threading it through the double pulley arrangement under the center of the machine looked daunting. I was about to try removing the spring on the moving pulley, the one that runs on the back of the belt, when I decided to try something else. I backed out the nut holding the retaining bolt for that pulley as far as it would go without removing it. The second easily removed pulley was already taken off. I was able to put a small bit of pressure to create enough of a space for the new belt to slide in between the moving pulley and everything else. Then I reinstalled the second pulley and voila the worst was over. The rear pulley on the trans itself was no big deal. Be sure to pull the battery and you can reach down from above and thread it around the pulley. The front double pulley, in my case, went back on the machine with no problems. I used a little anti seize on it for next time. Whether that's smart or not we'll see. Anyway, I got out of the mess with a lot less aggravation than I thought I was going to have. If you are able to do what I did great. It avoids tangling with springs while standing on your head or whatever under the mower.
I didn’t have a terrible time with the engine pulley. Instead of wedging something into the top all I did was hold the shaft with a pipe wrench. I was then able to get the bolt with a 3/8” socket wrench and not even a breaker bar. Thanks for the rest of the video. It helped immensely with that center pulley. What a pain.
Great job on video. I did the same job, but used a pipe wrench on shaft and let the cross over bar lock it in place while I unscrewed the bolt and leaving the bolt partially on enough to slip belt on. Both belts are available at Home Depot in stock at stores.
My drive belt also came off after going down a somewhat steep incline. Thank you so much for sharing! Would have never figured this out on my own. Originally I tried to prevent the engine from turning by putting a socket on the flywheel bolt, but it just started to back itself out. I ended up taking off the starter and jamming a piece a scrap wood in the opening too. I also attempted to use an electric impact wrench, however that didn’t work either, in fact, it started to round off the corners of the bolt. What worked for me was a 1/2 inch socket wrench with the handle of my floor jack on the end. Lastly, I cleaned up the bolt using a utility knife and a wire brush, it looks like there might have been some metal shavings in the threads too.
Great--Thanks I looked at many videos with no success. With your video I finally got the job done .
Stop! Don’t mess with all that. Take out 4 engine mount bolts on the bottom of the frame. Tilted engine left and right belt slips right on . You’re welcome.
Working on same mower such a pain
From one noob to another, thanks a bunch. I cannot imagine continuing to make a video after all the frustration. I have a X2 LX46 KH and ur model is similar enough that your video worked as a guide. Unlike your model my drive pulley and deck pulley up front are 2 separate pieces and my starter + flywheel are different than yours. With my flywheel shape I was able to clamp a vice grip on the flywheel to the left of the starter instead of having to remove the starter and use a wedge. First though, and because I had read through the comments, I tried the "remove the 4 engine bolts" suggestions and that did not work on my model, there was hardly any wiggle room at all. The next difference from your video is to remove the main bolt I used a 3 foot section of black pipe that I slipped over a socket wrench and pulled until the loctite broke loose instead of using an impact driver. I have an impact driver but did not have any adapters that fit sockets and it was late (I have them now, lol). As a heads up to anyone who might have my model, the key on the drive pulley is on the bottom when u put it back on. Regarding the 2 middles pulleys, I took off the spring and then merely loosened the nut that you took off. It created enough wiggle room to get the belt on, and you don't have to deal with the mess after you take it all the way off. That's it for me, I appreciated your video tremendously, I watched it a few times before I started and then again when I got to the middle pulleys.
Great video and it helped tremendously! Had an unfortunate occurrence happen today when a stick thrust Itself into the drive belt causing the belt to wedge itself above pulley #23,stopping me in my tracks. You’re video made it clear to what’s needed and just in the nick of time as I see it was just posted. Thank you!!
Thanks! And that's great to hear. This turned into a 4-evening job for me! First was just taking the deck off and getting prepped. But then it took 3 evenings after work to figure out how to do this and get it done. I'm very glad to hear the video saved someone else some time.
Many thanks to you sir. I agree, soon as I took off the belt tensioner pulley, I thought the same thing. Damn, shouldn't I have taken it off.. lol. Your help and diagram I couldn't find off the Depot site helped. Appreciate it.
Dude... Thank you so much. I tried various different ways of trying to get that bolt off and could NOT do it until I tried a massive pipe I had in the shop. That was rough.
Thank you Simon for the extra tips - this video was the most helpful I found on TH-cam for this belt change and I appreciate you doing this I think cub cadet is nuts for this drive belt placement and pia time and effort it takes to replace this belt also mine broke only with a couple years use I think the engineers who designed this should be fired it should not take this long to replace a belt and I consider myself mechanically adept and this is one of the hardest jobs I’ve had to do figuring out how to remove and the pulleys belt routing and all and hard to work on and get at parts how is a regular guy going to change this belt it’s insane what are you gonna haul the mower somewhere to get it done and I don’t know of any place that makes house calls the whole thing stinks but I appreciate you gentlemen taking the time to help us all out thank you thank you
Regarding Loctite thread locker and anti-seize. Anti-seize is used when you are working with chrome-plated bolts, etc. The anti-seize prevent the chrome plating from galling off and jamming the threads. It's also used when installing spark plugs into aluminum heads such as those found on automotive engines and small engines. Without anti-seize, the heat from the engine will make the removal of spark plugs extremely difficult. Loctite comes in Blue and Red. Blue is used on anything that does not spin. It holds the grip of the bolt or screw but allows for simple removal. Red is used on bolts and nuts that spin. It provides some insurance that once the fastener is properly torqued in place with Red Loctite on the threads, it won't ever jiggle loose by the spinning and by vibrations. To remove fasteners that employed Red Loctite, the heat from a heat gun will help immensely to soften the Loctite, allowing removal. Without the application of heat, it's much, much more difficult. The replacement of the transmission drive belt is not meant to be a consumer/user-friendly operation.
!!!! TIP!!!!!, thanks for the video. I thought I should share this. There is a easier way to put the belt on the engine pulley. Unscrew the 4 bolts that are holding the engine to the frame(the 4 bolts right next to the pulley). Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the muffler to the engine and reposition muffler tube. Now get a second person to put a jack under the engine pulley and jack the engine pulley with the engine up in the air about 3 inches above the frame. This will give you enough clearance to take off the old belt and put on the new belt. Then bring the engine back down to the frame and put all the bolts back in.
Thanks. To you and Michael who also mentioned that. That's not something I would ever have dreamed of as a possible solution. "Take the engine out" sounds pretty risky on the surface to a noob like me. But your description sounds pretty straightforward actually. I'd only give a couple of thoughts in favor of the method in this video. One, I don't have a jack. :-) Not a real one outside the kind in a trunk alongside the spare. And don't do enough automotive work to justify storing one. But of course, I could have borrowed one. I also didn't readily have a friend as I was working at night when I had time. But, that too could be remedied. Both of those would have required calls and scheduling. The only real bonus of the above method is now I can remove that bolt much more easily in the future since I used blue Loctite. And I fear this is going to happen again. My transmission is already getting wonky again, going slower in reverse than it did after I put the belt on. And that's what it was doing before the belt had its issue, going slow in reverse and making some noise going forward. From now on I can fix this is in short time by myself by popping off the starter and one bolt. No need to call someone up every time I have to do it. I hope I'm wrong though and this belt will last longer.
In any case, yours sounds like a very reasonable solution.
Thanks so much for posting this! This method worked perfect for me after giving up on trying to get the bottom bolt holding on pulley tree off. I really think this is the intended method. I have the 2019 lt46 model with the twin cylinder engine. I didn't even bother to disconnect the exhaust tubes from the engine. I took out the 4 bolts, disconnected any clips holding down cables and jacked the engine straight up till the exhaust tubes came straight out of the muffler. I got my belt back on then slowly lowered the engine back in to place making sure the exhaust tubes slid back in to the muffler and while pinching the belt around the drive pulley so it wouldn't bind while slipping back around the frame guards. A second person would have been helpful to help guide the engine back down in to place but I managed to do it by myself without any issues. I used a floor jack with a flat piece of wood between the jack and the lower pulley which seemed to keep the engine relatively stable while lifting.
I just did my belt, I did remove the 4 engine bolts and the 2 muffler bolts. I had the belt off the front pully in about ten minutes. I found my tensioner pulley shredded after I pulled the housing down, so its not back together just yet, I need to order it. but the rest of the video was helpful.
Did mine last year I just used a small pipe wrench to hold the pully shaft, I let it wedge against the frame then I took the bolt out with a cheater bar, I would also recommend antiseeze on the pully bolt if you ever want to get it out again, I have had no problems with the pully bolt coming loose by it self.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
You saved me SO much time.
with the starter out, I tried the wood way you showed, but couldn't get it to hold. I was a able to use the a small right angle bracket I had to wedge into the flywheel teeth and on the other end of the bracket, use the starter mounting hole to install a nut and bolt to hold it tight. Toke a little trial ad error to find the right bracket but I had a few and it ended up working. Should've read all the comments first, the pipe wrench method sounds like a winner. Any way ,good video. I nice to see other people have the same issues as me.
thx for info. i used a pipe wrench on main drive pulley instead of removing starter. and removed spring holder from frame in rear. was easier for me. thx again
Adding my thanks for this very helpful video. My transmission drive belt came off the pulley when I drove over a small twig with my Xt2. The twig got between the belt and the pulley and somehow the belt got past the substantial belt guards. The bolt would not move and you answered two questions.. what hand was the bolt thread and how was it locked in place. I used a propane torch on the head of the bolt for a few mins to soften the locktite red and then backed the bolt out with an impact wrench. I re-assembled with some locktite blue and with great relief the tractor once again moves under its own power. Took less than an hour to complete.
Loctite recommends heating the bolt with a torch(not a cutting torch, but a torch used for sweating pipes) to around 500 degrees, to "plasticize" the red, making it come off
I just replaced mine , my battery power impact worked with no problem getting the bolt loosened, the hardest thing I found was the carrier bearings pullies back together, but I got it all put together and back up and running in a few hours . Mine is a 2016 46 inch . I did not use lock tight on my bolt it did not have any on it when I pulled it off .
I changed the ground drive belt on a 2019 Cub Cadet XT2 last summer, but the main difference was that mine was electric PTO. It was interesting to watch you think your way through it, as I faced many of the same challenges trying to figure it out. My local Cub Cadet dealer refused to sell me a service manual, as apparently they wish to try to get you to bring the mower into their service department for this procedure. However, my model is equipped with a Kohler engine, and I found that they had recommendations in their service manual on how to keep the engine from turning when you remove the crankshaft bolt. The service manual is available for free download on the internet. Their first option was a strap wrench. I did not try that out, so I can't speak to the merits of it. I used their second option, which was to make a homemade flywheel holding tool from cutting a chunk out of an old flywheel ring gear. The basic idea is to put it opposed to the flywheel and jam it against an ignition boss. It works regardless if you are tightening or loosening the bolt. You just have to reverse it to the other side of the ignition boss depending on which direction you are trying to turn the bolt. I'm surprised that you had so much trouble removing the crankshaft bolt. My recollection from viewing online diagrams of manual PTO models is that they are set to 60 ft. lbs. of torque. Because I do not have a service manual, I estimated the torque on mine to be about 70 ft. lbs. I could have used pneumatic tools to get it off, but I removed mine with just a ratchet. I struggled the most with the middle pulleys, which are similar but a somewhat different setup than yours. I also had to eventually refer to parts diagrams online to figure out how to get it all back together again. Your video did not show anything regarding the transmission. On mine, it was necessary to use an OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder to remove the pulley to get the belt off. In order to get it back on, I needed to hold the pulley steady using this tool while reinstalling the nut.
Ha, what a shock they wouldn't sell you the manual! Regarding the transmission on this manual PTO, I didn't mention it because that was the easiest part of the entire job. Thankfully one part was easy. With the belt loose from the front end, it's really easy to just lift the belt over the fan, and to put the new one back over the fan. Thanks for posting here what it takes for the electric one! I'm sure that will help someone out.
I was able to stabilize the pulley with a pipe wrench rather than pulling the starter. I got the bolt out without an impact wrench but it did take a 24" pipe on the ratchet to persuade removal.
I’ve worked on just about everything under the sun from lawnmowers to aircraft. THIS design on the cub cadet is some of the most Mickey Mouse engineering I’ve seen in 40 years. Only thing that comes close to the pita that this is, is changing a starter on a 2008 Honda civic (Honda techs know). How many beers did this engineer have on his lunch break when he came up with this?
One thing to consider is that red thread lock is high temperature. Using blue thread lock might not hold considering engine temperatures and heat conduction down the shaft.
Just had this issue this weekend, brother and i undid the four bolts holding the engine to frame… wedged it up and back slipped on the belt then SLOWLY slid and lowered it back into place
leaving the deck belt attached and engaged to break loose the bolt is the best course of action.
You saved me! Thanks.
I had the same issue with the pulley bolt..........I bought a pneumatic impact driver from Harbor freight, and it took it off like butter.
I just finished replacing mine and to be fair you don’t have to fully remove the engine pulley. Just loosen it enough for the belts to clear the guards. As for the smaller pulley that one does have to be removed. This job took around 45 minutes from start to finish thanks to this video. Edit: I didn’t remove the starter all I used was a pipe wrench to grip the long shaft on the main pulley nothing up top was removed or disconnected.
That's good to know about the engine pulley. In my case, the belt was above the pulley, so it had to come all the way off. I kept trying to sneak it around and not lower the pulley all the way but it couldn't fit. I did wonder if a belt in the proper position could come out and go back in with the pulley just lowered a little. Thanks. And yeah, I did try a pipe wrench, but I have a smaller sized one and couldn't really get it to bite and stop the shaft from spinning. I was also concerned if you did get it to bite, could it actually misshape the pulley shaft by squeezing it? Glad the video helped.
NineOSilverado Your comment edit saved me so touch time and trouble. Thanks man.
Put a pipe wrench on the shaft of the pulley in between the drive pulley and the deck pulley and keep it from turning with the pipe wrench and loosen it with your impact gun. I have a craftsman mower that's set up the same way and I got mine off by hand with a rachet. I busted my knuckles a couple of times doing it but I did get it off.
I am dealing with the same problem and am wondering if it might be easier to detatch the engine mounts from the frame rather than trying to get this bolt out of the drive shaft
High-torque variable speed impact drill makes that job a lot easier
Using a Makita battery powered impact wrench, the front pulley bolt came right off. (I just had to remove the mower belt guard so that the drive belt pulley could drop enough to get past the guards.) The second time I did it - it was literally a two minute job.) Well made video - but the job could be done much more easily (with the right impact drill.)
The factory out loctite on the bolt. My air impact got it off but it did struggle a little.
Man! This is Great!
Much easier removing the motor mounts and tilting the motor enough to get the belt on
i just loosed pulley not remove bolt having trouble with snap ring on fan on rear pulley
Bro, I fought that damn bolt for a week. Put vice grips on the pully shaft and a breaker bar on the bolt and FINALLY got it off
OHH MAN. I just did this myself. Had a hell of a time getting the engine not to turn. Take of the plastic shroud on the top. There's a nut hidden under it that attaches to the crank. Hope it helps in the future. Great Vid.
The use of a vise mounted to a bench when chasing the threads makes the job much easier than holding it in your hands.
🤦♂️ Yep. That makes so much sense. I wish I'd thought of that. I have a bench vise! Thanks. I'm going to update the steps in the description with that tip.
Keep hitting it with that impact don't stop do it for an hour if you have to go help break everything loosen their impact it go forward and reverse forward and reverse on your impact that'll driving in from the threads and then loosen them out board backward
My Ryobi impact driver spun the bolt off without any trouble. It can produce around 200ft/lbs. I bought it for removing blades on a Bush Hog.
You are lucky, as I managed to snap the bolt, while trying to remove it from the driveshaft.
Put a pipe wrench on the shaft and hold the wrench up against part of the mower and loosen the bolt.
They use red locktite on them at the factory.
0:16 Freeze frame. you left the plastic security piece on the belt? That needs to come off or it will slip off every time.
Could you not have placed a second ratchet/wrench on the bolt on top of fly by taking that black plastic cover off?
I did mine last year. The whole time wondering if the engineers will enjoy their stay in hell. Mine has the electric clutch so "rocking the motor" like others said just didn't work. I bent the 3 tabs that go around the pulley to get the belt off.
there are 3 ,1/4 inch bolts on each side of the frame that hold the bottom plate on remove all 6 the whole plate drops off takes two min to loosen the bolt for the idler pulley and feed the belt through the holder.
Does that apply to this exact model? At 13:49 you'll see the plate that's below the idler pulley. I don't see any bolts in that shot. On page 26 of the PDF in the description, it appears to show that bottom plate as part of the frame, non-removable, for this model.
Couple questions cause i have same deal right now . Those middle pulleys , do u definitely have to remove that bolt or just take off that spring ? Also do u have to remove the fan above the transmission to get the belt around that pulley ? Im not liking this design at all . I had the model before the xt 1 an it wasnt this much of a problem . smh . thanks for any info .
Hi, Timmy. That middle pulley as to come out. It does not have a spring on it and there is no room between that bar next to it and the pulley. You don't have to take it out for long. You just have to get the bolt pulled out enough to move the pulley over and get the belt out from around that bar. Then you can put the bolt back up into the pulley. But when putting the new belt on, you'll have to loosen it again.
Regarding the fan, no, you don't have to take that off at all. Start by putting the belt around the transmission and you'll have plenty of slack to go around it. Plus if I recall correctly the blades had some give in them. I don't believe they are rigid metal blades so getting off and on around them was easy.
@@jonagard Thanks , yeh i dug into it an got it done . I was like u , saying damn i hope i dont regret this lol ! but so far so good , thanks again man :)
Hi I just did this and for those middle pulleys with the black bar in the way all I did was take the spring off the black bar put a vice grips on the top nut and used a crescent wrench on the bolt and then I "loosened" the pully bolt just maybe three or four turns and that was enough leeway to slip the belt in between the black bar and the pully without having to fully remove it. I also second the comments that say just put a vice grips on the engine pully shaft and it hits the frame and lets you loosen that front engine pully bolt. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and it was smooth as butter. Thanks for this video. As you say, all the other youtube vids I saw did not have this exact setup. I appreciate your time in making this!
I broke the bolt. not sure what to do now. Cub Cadet really screwed me on this one using that hard core loctite.
Our belt broke on our XT2. Same issues but the idler pulleys are completely obscured. This mower has only 28 hrs on it. I already hate it. Will never again get a mower that is so hard to service.
Me too, total Garbage mower.
@@player6970 I replaced the crappy factory belt with a top end Kevlar belt and it has been good since. There are several good features to the mower so I just hope it’s a long time before a replacement is needed.
@@b3gr33n Hope so too. I probably just junk mine.
Had the the broe transs belt! Crank puget came off wit air impact,then. I couldn't see anything! I. Stood it straight up on Ackermann 2 wheels and it was alot easier. I think they could have done a better engineering job o these!
Butt thanks for video
Instead of a piece of wood jammed in the starter hole, take a pair of vice grips and clamp them onto the shaft against the frame and it will hold it while you take the bolt off
Sounds like your fighting a death match with that thing. Lol
Remove the motor mount bolts leave the pully on
I've done a million of these if you put that impact with an impact socket on that boat on the bottom there is never a need to hold on to that pulley on top or the flywheel the impact that thing in the correct direction tell that boat comes off and it's standard threads righty tighty lefty loosey
When you took the spring off, you don't show that nor do you say what the other end is attached to--"Just another piece of metal." My spring fell off, but I have no idea what to connect a new one to, and cant find detailed drawings for it
Hey. Getting the spring off took an unpredictable amount of time so I couldn't record it and get a good result. If you follow the link in the description above to the parts diagram PDF, go to page 26. You'll see a spring that is part #11. That shows you how one end (the closed loop) of the spring is attached. Then look for part #14, the Deck Spring Rod. If I recall correctly, the open side of the spring connects to part #14. When you disconnect the spring that part #14 is just loosely hanging there through a hole in the frame.
Alternatively, you can remove the 4 bolts holding the engine in place, lift it slightly, careful not to bend the exhaust, and slip the belt back on. Took me 5 minutes.
It's much easier to just hold the shaft between the two front pulleys with a pipe wrench and use an impact gun to remove the bolt. Removed the bolt in under a minute.
Even with everything held tight, an impact wrench would not loosen my bolt, not with the red loctite on it. It wouldn't budge. I was using an electric one. An air one might have done it.
I just did it with a socket wrench and pipe wrench. And man power took way less time
wire wheel on a grinder run through the bolt grooves with gloves on please should easily remove red locktite. I do this to clean up rusty bollts daily.
Had you used the tool the corret way it would have made it much easier
By going through the die from wide to narrow would have allow the clear spittle at a time
Cub Cadets are such trash mowers. I have an XT1 like yours and the mower deck is junk. My drive belt broke tonight. I am wondering if you can loosen the engine mounting bolts and slide the engine back just far enough to get the belt over the pulley?
pipe wrench between pulleys
Oh boy
This is so much easier with a impact
You did it wrong! In between the two pulleys you apply mole grips large, it will turn untill the mole grips touch the frame and hold, then use a wrench extension or socket with breaker bar " it works"
damn you did it just abut killed you and me . good job buddy now come help me , but I am going to tilt my on its side .
next time just wedge a pipe wrench on the pulley shaft instead of messing with the piece of wood. It will end up against the tire and ezpz
This is significantly easier to do with a pipe wrench on the shaft. I didn’t even have to drop the mower deck. Took like 20 mins.
I got to wondering if you even had to take the front pulley off. Seems pretty tough just to change a drive belt.
You changed the drive belt in 20 min? That makes me feel better about this if I can do it with deck in
Get a new Bolt
its not that big of a deal but you should grease the shaft leading into the block pulley.
Oh no
Don't remove the shaft with the pulleys! There's a reason that there is red thread lock on it. It's not supposed to be removed. Removing the 4 engine mounting bolts was easy. I found the engine to be light in weight and I could lift one side slip the belt over one side and then lift the other side and get it around the other side of the pulley. . Your may have to remove the exhaust pipe to the muffler maneuver the engine from side to side. If the engine is too heavy you can use a floor jack to lift it. Took me 20 minutes but someone with more mechanical ability could do it in less time.
?? The shaft wasn't being removed. The engine shaft (crank shaft) pulley was being removed. MHO is that the factory installer (probably) messed up applying red Loctite
So did this job take you only 20 minutes to complete? Is it straightforward once you take engine mounting bolts off to take out old belt and put new one in through?
I think all you have to do is loosen the engine and you just slip the belt right off
There is a much, much easier way to change the drive belt.
PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THE ADVICE IN THIS VIDEO. I am a small engine mechanic and there are too many of you doing horrible things to your equipment and then you bring them to me and expect me to fix it. Just take your equipment to a mechanic and spend the money. You will spend way less money and time that way.
The only thing is how we gonna get the mower to you guys pia and I’m sure this job would be expensive cub cadet should not have made this job so complicated on a maintenance item
LOL
Garbage mower!
It’s a nightmarish job for sure.
These mowers are just junk