Two free tips on the DEUTZ engine. Hot pressure wash completely the interior of the engine, cylinder liner fins, oil cooler and cooling fan. This is a MUST to keep the operating temperature of the engine under control and not to size a piston. All should be completely clean 100% without any grease, dust or paint.. Second tip: when you operate a DEUTZ engine you should keep the engine speed ALWAYS above 80% of full throttle rpm. If you operate it to slower peeds, the engine cooling fan will not provide enough air to cool it and you will overheat the engine and seize a piston. Bonus: always keep all air cooling compartment covers and seals correctly positioned for not to escape any cooling air and all the air goes through the liners and cylinder head fins. Enjoy your Liebherr.
@@WaldosWorld I would go ahead and change the fan belt just for cheap preventive maintenance. The inner air filter is a super fine element and if it starts clogging it will act low on power like a clogged fuel filter. We always use a paint pen on the filters to write the date and hours when changed. Keep up the cool videos !!!
Make sure whenyou pressure wash those engines they are cool as you could warp the piston ,if it,s the air type cooling engine ,been there when driver washed engines off after hard day working it .it always the one from the fan that blow
There is a “no spill” adapter that threads onto those fittings, that has a hose on it, so you can eliminate the mess, as you thread it on, it opens the valve up, they are crucial with nasty diesel oil. Not gonna lie, watching you take an oil bath had me laughing! Great video!
@@WaldosWorld any heavdyduty supplier should have them, I got one from my local “traction” for my 6.7 Cummins dodge, they are a tractor-trailer parts supplier. They work great!
I am an old Diesel guy, heavy duty lubricants guy. Story: In 1990's on Long Island, an air cooled Diesel same as yours in a rock crusher was turning motor oil to tar. They first blamed our motor oil (of course) we went out to have a look. We found that the plasic blade cooling fan had passed so much grit-filled air that it widdled down to nothing it no longer passed much air and the engine was toasting it's oil. (Before hydro cracked base stocks I guess) So, have a look at your cooling fan and make sure it is good as new. Maybe depends upon the region. The ducting/sheet metal shroud is also very important to force air to coolers. Don't let anyone run the motor without it. Seal any gaps to force all the air through the coolers. Also, feel the exhaust manifold near each cylinder during a cold start to see if all reach temperature similarly and you can tell allot by that. New hydraulic fluids are better and so are greases. A good moly or graphite grease matters, high tack helps too. Seal conditioners in some hydraulic fluids can help restore valve seals and piston seals. Tranny fluid works pretty darn good too. Some folks even use motor oil in the entire machine. Manufacturer has recomendations but those are long outdated. Synthetics are a great way to go whenever possible especially in a machine that sits. Keep a 55 gallon drum of hydraulic handy. Also order hoses ahead of time, maybe learn to make your own. Check any rubbing points. Make sure you reinstall clips and isolators and and ad if you have to do any wiring. Anything touching the motor or frame can be short lived. Diesels will vibrate through wire insulation, hoses and fuel lines quick. Thats why so many clips on those fuel lines, there for a reason!
HEY - if you're not making money off of it anymore - I may can get a straight answer - how long does Hydraulic fluid really last in a closed system -- Im being told 10 years or more if not contaminated by something - does that have any value in it - is there anything that can be added to make it last longer - I use kubota stuff - is there better hydra oils - and - any grease that works much better - Im having to grease up a lot more than I think I should - even with high tack - lucas -
As mentioned about keeping the engine clean, there is an access cover on the side of the engine to clean the cylinder liners . Secondly Always keep a spare fan belt as they take a lot of abuse . Also, ALWAYS ALLOW THE TURBO TO COOL DOWN AFTER A HEAVY USE ! you should idle the engine at least 5 mins .Always change the inner air filter with the outer .
@apacheone3643 Not the cleaning, that you cannot skimp on. I meant the inner filter, it is not going to overheat from a clean air filter. It wouldn't overheat from a dirty one either.
as a German and a mechanic, daily working on excavators and sometimes old Deutz motors this video has me smiling. keep up the good work you have a very reliable machine there
in this condition around 10,000 to 13,000 euros approximately but its depending on the seller an/or if the machine has leaks. in Germany its quite difficult to haul equipment over 40 tons even for trucking companies.
@@user-pe8ir4iy1e If you go for machines over 40 tons they could be very cheap about 5000 to 7000 euros but you have to transport it and that costs a lot. and machines in that 40 ton category the sellers know exactly that they are "wanted". you have to watch out so you don't get ripped off.
@@user-bj2br6id4e thank you for the tips. I appreciate it immensely. Looking to potentially source these for export to north west africa. We have some past experiences in exporting excavators like these from The Netherlands. These low numbers work very well for export.
Hey so I’m a apprentice in the heavy duty mechanics field in Canada and whilst I mainly work on semi-trucks one thing we learned in class whilst learning about tracks and undercarriage for equipment such as yours is that it’s a common misconception to dig on the side as you were. The machine is actually meant to dig from right on top of the front idlers. Whilst you can’t do that in every situation and I’m not bashing any operators who do dig that way it’s been proven to accelerate wear on the undercarriage components such as the bottom rollers and sprocket. Just good for thought. Cheers
Whenever you can, you should dig with your tracks in line with where your digging with the track idler's in the front. Wont wear out your tracks and sprocket as quick. Happy digging from the 603 aswell!
I vote to name it Klink after Wilhelm Klink, character in Hogan’s Hero’s. Werner Klemperer was an American actor. He was known for playing Colonel Wilhelm Klink on the CBS television sitcom Hogan's Heroes, for which he twice won the award for Outstanding Supporting Actor in a Comedy Series at the Primetime Emmy Awards in 1968 and 1969.
Because of fluid mechanics (of dirt lol) that boulder will rise back out of the ground over time. I would recommend moving them rather than just reburying them. or put them a little deeper into the ground.
My neighbor did this exact thing and after only 6 years the first boulder was starting to poke up bulging the lawn. We live above the arctic circle so we have really cold winters and pretty hot summers so that probably speed things up.
I know jack shit about fluid dynamics, but I'm glad that there's a rational explanation as to why my property (arizona, yeah..) "makes" rocks every time it rains. and I'm not just crazy.
Yay Deutz! My late father was the second Deutz dealer in the US! They can use 10-15 seconds of glow plug pre-heat and will start instantly regardless of temperature. Use a pressure washer (or steam washer) to blast off that buildup. The 913 deutz engine line is ultra reliable and can give you 40,000 hours of use if you keep it clean (cool) and feed it clean diesel fuel (good filters). I had one irrigation pump that I overhauled at age 18, and many years later, the owner brought it back with over 50,000 hours more runtime... The big air pre-filter can be cleaned by tapping it on the sides on a flat surface. Rotate it around, gently tapping the filter on the surface.
I’m a huge fan of deutz. Air cooled engines are one of the best things Germans ever came up with. As long as you keep everything clean like it should be they’re probably one of the MOST reliable motors ever built.
Hey Stub. That would have been the 60s? My uncle was a dealer for Deutz gen sets. I remember him boating them to camps and providing service by boat or floatplane regardless of weather. Tough old bird from Lake of the Woods.
@@garysimon7765 I agree, In States to the South of him like NJ those people pay big bucks for those rocks, although getting them there would cost a bunch..
Word of advice, when prying on big rocks always try to keep the bucket on the ground and pry by curling, prevents unnecessary strain on pins and is easier on the machine, absolutely loved the video 👍
Hey Jonathan that was an awesome tip. I'm 60 years old and I've been operating equipment since I was young and included an equipment operator in the CB. I've never thought of that or heard that. Idea thank you for that.
Same goes for any equipment really. Your bucket curl is the strongest breakout force because of how much leverage there is, especially when you add a second point of contact by using the ground as a fulcrum. Good advice.
@@jamesb2291 it also transfers the stress to the steel "box frame" that is the bucket, instead of much more expensive hydraulic/mechanical parts being stressed.
Great video. First time watcher here. I’m a heavy equipment mechanic in MD. If I could give you one piece of advice whenever digging especially something hard like a rock position the tracks so you are digging over the idlers and not the side. You don’t want to dig over the final drives (planetary gear boxes with the sprockets) because that shock can hurt the bearings and gears and they are not cheap. Keep up the good work
Even doing 10 10k repairs makes this thing a deal and of course it doesn't need that much work especially if you own a welder and have a propensity for fixing things on your own. My guess is your the type of person that doesn't like to spend time fixing things and that's fine.
They are usually so cheap because the companies filed bankruptcy and the bank auctions them off for almost nothing if they look in rough shape. If you're a good welder/ mechanic you can buy these things and then start your own rental company. Out in the east of my state there's surface mining equipment everywhere because so many companies went out of business when they cut down on coal mining.
Always worth running drop of oil around the seal on a new filter, and don't use the filter wrench to tighten the filter - you can see where you damaged the new oil filter in the video!
I just came across this video and it is the first video of yours that I have seen. I own my own excavation company and can tell you that a hot bath is not necessarily the best thing to remove grease. If you get a pump up pressure sprayer and put diesel in it and spray the entire tractor off with diesel, it will remove the grease instead of spreading it. If you repeat the process twice, you’ll be pretty clean. Hope this helps.
Wash the machine with diesel fuel? I'm guessing this isn't %100 fuel. I know when we would prep our equipment for winter storage, we would mix 2/3 diesel fuel with 1/3 waste oil and used a little misting can to spray.
@@zxcvbnmasdfghjkl51 no sir. Don’t wash it with diesel. Your just putting a light mist (getting it wet) with diesel, so that the grease doesn’t stick to the tractor when you pressure wash it with water.
@@danieledrich6602 not washing with diesel. Pressure wash with water after lightly misting with diesel. You’re washing the grease off. The diesel helps the grease not stick to the tractor.
Nice work, good machine. You’re gonna want to make sure the top of the bolder is at least four feet below the surface below the frost line. We have a saying in CT, rocks grow best. The water gets below them and freezes, then pushes them back to the surface. I cut over 100 trees in my yard, about 36 of them were between 100-125 feet tall. Stumped it all out to make a field, and all the boulders I left in the soft soil I disturbed have poked up to the top. Also learn Fromm your mistake and try to keep your top soil and fill in separate piles when you dig the holes so when you fill them back in the top soil remains for grass to grow
I am 74 now. As teenager i was equipment operator an did some repair. When in my mid twenties to mid thirties, I was a heavy equipment mechanic. I bought several pieces of heavy equipment and repaired them. Wonderful hobby, repairing my own equipment. In mid thirties I realized it would be very hard when I got older it might be too hard to continue. I went back to school and learned computer programming. I retired with twenty plus years in computer automation. Since my retirement I learned to buld apps. I freelance now.
Blogblocks, like you, I switched careers but we never forget Diesel work. Don't know if you ever had the pleasure of starting an old Cat with a pony motor!
Hey men I am learning computer programming to get by in a 3erd world country. I live remote in a farm and I have no programmer friends , it would be nice to have a friend to talk to about my crazy computer questions , do you think we can connect ?
I'm a 25 year old man and had plans on going in to welding I've been welding all my life and was going to make a career out of it. However I lost all my toes due to frostbite, so I'm going to find myself following a path like you did. I'm still very strong and can walk just fine and do heavy lifting all day, I just know im not going to be able to it for long.
That engine is a gem. Had an old worn out one back in '95 used in a scrap yard....got that 6 pot air cooled diesel running a treat......tighten heads...they work loose and reset tappets.....easy! loved it
A bit of advice, when excavating something as large as a bolder have your track facing it straight, and not sideways with it, you can tip over an excavator that way, it jumps a lot and, also, the idlers to the back to keep the weight behind the machine. PS: Just noticed that the excavator is also leaning towards the bolder as well on a slope which makes it even more prone to tip over or bounce a lot Happy excavations to you, these are fun to run...
Lot of helpful tips in this comment section. Refreshing to see the togetherness of this community. Some other channels are just atrocious with everyone attacking each other. In my next life (and if I am born a boy next time) I'm going into construction!
Here's a tip for oil filter change with less of a mess. Once you get it turning put a plastic bag over the filter then unscrew the rest of the way with your hands and work area protected from any spills.
@@vvvvgggg the filters housing isn't very thick. I would hold a nail with vise grips against the bottom of the filter and a couple of light taps with whatever was handy did the trick. I used vise grips to hold the nail to keep oil off my hand when the nail went thru the filter casing, it was a little less awkward position where I was working too
I'm not exactly sure why TH-cam recommended this video to me, but I LOVED it and can't wait to watch more videos on your channel. I think the last thing I needed was another channel to be obsessed with, but here we are!
@Blake because this video was already shown to other users with a very similar view history as your's and a lot of these people watched most or all of this video or interacted (like, comment, sub) and so TH-cam assumes it might fit the interests of people like you quite well and keeps recommending it to people with similar view history = interests.
Congrats on the machine! Liebherr makes great equipment. Just note that those should be ran at high throttle to get the fan to move enough air to keep it cool. 👍
Was going to say this exact thing. Most air cooled tractors and excavators are this way. Need the extra forced air running over the radiator to keep cool.
@@FlyinRaptorJesus the term RADIATOR isn't limited to water to air type. The fins on an air cooled engine IS THE RADIATOR. Its the component that "radiates' the heat.
Ahhh you beat me to it! I was cringing watching it operate at low throttle. He meant well but it's certainly not helping the machine or his operating skills, as they are designed to operate under power and higher rpm. Good job pointing this out. Those engines need the RPM's in order to run cooler, even though it seems backwards. They will eventually get hot if your lugging them down,especially on a machine like this where you can see that its taking a bunch of power just using one boom function at a time. Once they turn the power on, it should be easier for him to lurn how to operate it correctly. I remember trying to learn how to run log loader at quarter throttle, until the owner came over and pushed the lever into bunny and told me to leave it there whenever I had my hands on the joysticks haha. And that was WITH a radiator. He would have popped my head off if he would have seen me idling an air cooled.
I worked at this type of equipment for my fathers farm and wold make one comment when dealing with older stuff like this. We bought a steam/ hot water power washer and it changed my life. The accumulated oily grime that infests every inch of machines like this can be cleaned off with relative ease making working at them a much more pleasant experience, it also reduces the risk of grit and grime getting into important parts during maintenance and helps stop you getting a thick coating of greasy grit on arms and face. Nice machine looks like it will respond well to a little care. One other point check all the major hoses and replace any sketchy ones before they let go on site, it can save aeges of wasted site time.
@@jasondavis2810 Most of my washers have been home builds for specific tasks but I like Simpson because of the CAT pumps, My current hot water washer is a Comet and it will make steam at good pressure which is ideal for greasy machinery. The one I have for use around home currently is a gas engine Wolf from Amazon with a little wobble pump and it didn't cost much, is light to move around goes like a Trojan, just not sure for how long it will keep going. What about you?
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ I am blessed to be able to say I am saved by grace and heaven bound, not by my own good but by the blood of Jesus Christ which was shed for me.
$7500 for a running machine, no matter the size, is amazing. I'd have expected bad engine, failing hydraulic pump, cracked boom, and a half dozen other issues for that price.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb for the first owner, absolutely. As a business, you can depreciate new to you equipment as well. It’s not uncommon for equipment to ride the depreciation waterfall through several businesses. I don’t know the history of that machine, so take my pure speculation with a health gain of salt.
I use to be from NH built in MASS, Excavating contractors use to give estimates off of the site plan for septic, material needed, stumping, cella hole and back fill, utility lines, driveway, basement prep et-cetera. The only additional would be the unknown boulders over a certain size and if ledge needed to be blasted out. Then someone somewhere somehow started the idea of " Hourly rate per machine plus trucking." Tried another contractor and realized it was the "New norm". I once showed up on a job to meet the operator, 7 am as we drank our coffee (pre-cell phone days) we went over what needed to be done. I left after about 1/2 hr (hr meter running while machine warmed up) and an hr and a half later forgot to mention something so I drove back he was still in the same place talking with another contractor that was working next door still drinking coffee. That was it for me besides. They also charged per yard for material and for kicks I calculated a dropped load and low and behold short of what I ordered. You never got what they charged. I once mentioned, pissed off to one site contractor that I was going to buy my own machines. His reply HA I would not. Do you know how much the parts cost? So I did what you did I found an old Hitachi ex-120 Had no clue how to operate it and figured I made a mistake but I stayed with it and in 40 hrs I was efficient and confident enough to have at it. Your machine can pay for itself in a week. Great job great vid.
Yup and that's why I purchased a 307 Cat. Between ponds and trenching and logging and loading the sawmill... I don't know how I ever got along without it. I have a total of about $15k invested after rehabing all the neglected pieces parts. I too had never run one before and once the muscle memory finally takes over and you don't have to think about every move it is truly magical. I spent a week going over every part and replacing every zerk fitting etc. Worth every minute and every penny. 👍😎👌
I had an ex-120. Great machine. Same as the John Deere except the engine was different. FWIW the system that everyone explained to me for dropped loads is number of bucket size scoops into the truck. Bank c. yards, truck c. yards and dumped c. yards don't match each other because of variations in compaction. So if you go to the landscaping yard with a 3 yard dump and buy 3yds of topsoil it won't measure 3yds in the bed, but they will give you 3 1yd bucket scoops.
Maybe he can't find any more boulders? I had thought this boulder was much bigger. And why bury these boulders? But I don't understand this kind of thing. And why bury these boulders? But I don't understand this kind of thing. In the flat Holland you will only find large boulders in Drenthe [Havelte]. They call them Dolmens. Number D53 was built between 3400 and 3100 BC. [wikipedia]
Hey Waldo, I like your show and admire your skills and guts to tackle big jobs. One tip, tie shop rags around your wrist's to stop liquid from going to your armpits during overhead service. LOL. I really like the projects you share. Keep up the great work.
Those Deutz air cooled units are great engines, easy to work on, But replacement parts are vary expensive so take good care of it. I worked for Atlas Copco Wagner Mining Equipment Co as a diesel mechanic for 18 years and we put a lot of Deutz engines in our machines. Those batteries you used should more then ample in that machine, no need to upgrade to the larger battery if everything works fine. Also the next time you change your oil you can install a remote oil drain on the engine, simple to do, we did it all the time on our machines for that simple fact. Also you can steam clean or low pressure power wash the inside of the engine to keep clean the oil coolers that’s important. The oil is the life blood of the machine. While I’m talking about oil have you heard of IXL Oil Conditioner products???, I’ve been using this brand for over 30 years in my personal gasoline car engines, axles, transmissions. You’ll have to go online to the IXL store or maybe a diesel truck shop. They have a great line of products. You might want to install a oil temperature gauge and maybe a pyrometer gauge in the future. Also if and when servicing the hydraulic filter and system when refilling and I’m not sure of the hydraulic system design but pre-fill the hydraulic filter so you don’t run the hydraulic pumps in a dry state on restart after service. Then when the machine is not in use have the boom n bucket in a down position that all the hydraulic cylinder rams are retracted into the hydraulic cylinders to protect them from external damage, you don’t want to have to replace one, Probably over 1,000.00 dollars. The big thing to remember is if you break something on that machine you could be easily over the original price you paid for the machine, just don’t do anything stupid. Happy digging👍👍
Hi, I remember those Wagner scoop trams we used in an underground mine here in Mexico. Great machines back at the time +/- 1998-2003. They were replaced eventually with Sandviks.
South western PA equipment tech here. Those are the best damn engines you could ever ask for. They are almost bullet proof. Soooo easy to work on. The only thing to watch for is the timing belt. They are interference engines. If the belt breaks or slips it will bend every push tube in it. However, still super easy to change because it’s oil cooled! No mess taking the head off. P.S. that Stauffer diesel that rebuilt it is the authority on these engines on the east coast. If they don’t have the part, it doesn’t exist. Good luck man. Enjoy
Yep, nothing better than creating a lawn mower obstacle course out of your lawn with giant boulders. The previous owner of my house created the same kind of course man do I ever appreciate it everytime I mow 🤬
Been away from the excavating for many years, but after 30 yrs owning I suggest 1) grease every fitting regularly and replace/repair any that don't accept grease (sometimes just raising to remove weight from pin hydraulically will allow fitting to accept grease 🤞, other times untreated impacted grease/dirt requires pin removal) one reason it's inexpensive, but you did a good buy it seems. Many experienced responders on here. 2) I don't think new teeth are a priority (won't help) for your application as long as they aren't worn through to the shank inside tooth. Your smaller backhoe loader will level up and grade for you once you get the touch.
Usually the grease fittings that won’t take aren’t the fittings but instead the grease port is blocked with metal/dirt/ or old grease that has hardened.
Tip on that oil drain plug: Install a short hydraulic hose with a valve or a hydraulic coupling at the end. This will provide better control when draining, and the latter option gives you very low spillage and also provides a way of draining into a sealable container.
I like Hans as a name! And if you ever get a small excavator of dozer, you can name it Franz. As for the way it operates, it sounds like it's really laboring when you use more than one function at a time. That is usually from clogged fuel filters, so hopefully when you get the primary filter replaced, Hans will operate smoother.
Tip: you crushed the filter while tightening it with those pliers. In fact oil pressure is not as high as you may think(cat c15 manual says dependent on rpm between 40-80 psi). This means if you have properly cleaned and lubed the surface of the filter and the filter housing, hand tight is usually enough (depending on grip strength). If not a filter socket or the metal band style filter wrench are best. Pliers are for taking off not putting on.
Great video. I’m wondering how much it cost you to get home? You could do some serious terraforming with that! I watched a video the other day called something like “10 newbie excavator mistakes”. I have never driven one either but tracks sideways then reaching out a long way to remove the unloveable object is a great way to land on your face. But I bet you have figured that out by now.
@@DavoShed Have to factor in wait times at the auction yard as well. The big yards are BUSY, even with an appointment. Check in after getting paperwork, then check out which burns up tons of time. You're paying for time and milage, plus any ancillary services. Meter starts at the dispatching depot and stops when the truck returns to the depot. Best to get flat rate price with a company familiar with the particular auction yard. Source: Eye watering checks I've cut for lowboy trucks.
Been running excavators for 20 years and you did very well for your first time .. you'll be a good operator because you're pitcular and pay attention to fine detail 👌 keep it up!
Your enthusiastic appreciation for this machine and what it can do is so refreshing, especially when compared with some certain other popular TH-cam channels. I hope you do a lot of great things with it.
the tool you used to remove the old oil filter is only for removal. Using them to tighten a oil filter can damage the oil filter and cause it to fail. there are other tools specifically made for the thin walled oil and fuel filters. that evenly grabs all the way around the filter helping to prevent damage from occurring. other than that even those are not required due to oil filters being perfectly fine hand tightened. (Not a weak hand tight, tighten it like you would a 2 week old carton of spoiled milk that you can still smell when you close the lid so then you go a little more.)
Yeah, I have NO idea about any kind of mechanical stuff, just find it fascinating to watch... but when he installed that new filter and these tongs were squeezing and deforming it, I thought "That can't be right..."
All Liebherr machines have this type of "valved plug" on all their oil drain locations. You need a special Liebherr tool fitting that comes with a piece of hose, and when you tread it to the drin valve it opens the poppet inside and allows to drain the oil through the hose. Is a must tool if you own any Liebherr equipment. Ask your local Liebherr dealer for it, the oil drain adapter and hose.
At least here in Germany,this is on basically every piece of heavy equpiment, even for draining fuel and hydraulic tanks. Caterpillar, Liebherr, Hitachi, Volvo, the same drain evrywhere
1. How much per mile did it cost to transport to your property? 2. What was your “pre-anticipated” budget for maintenance and servicing it for the first time? 3. What was your total on replacement parts? 4. What preinspection have you done before bidding? 5. What happened to part 2?
Nice machine! Lots of iron for the price. When you’re digging something like that out, try to do it with the idlers facing the rock. It’ll be a lot more stable and you’ll be able to put more power into what you’re doing!
Yes always keep the drive sprockets to the back of you, so it doesn't put all that weight on them while you are digging or lifting something heavy, that also acts as counter weights
I run a recycling company and I'm watching videos about heavy equipment just to know what I may need or may not need. This video truly made me happy. In a whimsical sense, i wish you luck in your pursuits sir
Waldo, please install some plexiglass or wire meshing between you and the material you're handling. That thing has a lot of power and if some of the stone breaks off, the chips could hurt you. At least use some glasses. A friend of mine has lost an eye using digging equipment. A small metalic chip broke of somewhere and screwed up his left eye for good while working with the windshield open and no eye protection. Don't take it the wrong way, just a heads up, can happen to the best! Good buy, have fun with it and be safe
Definitely check out your hydraulic system, check level and strainer/filters Tighten the tracks, not overly tight but those are pretty loose. And the exhaust dumping in the engine compartment will cover everything in soot, any work you do and you’ll look like you just clocked out of a coal mine. You seem competent enough to just make repairs there so that will save you on parts. At the end of the day it’s just a machine if you keep up maintenance on one they tend to keep lasting, try not and side load your boom where you can help it, excavators are the most powerful in a dig to you motion around a 90° boom angle but as an operator myself you’re not bad at it, Smooth is fast, even it it doesn’t seem like it. Reduces wear and operator fatigue over bouncing around. Just remember the farther you are out the less control and power you have. Grease it regularly and keep the fuel tank full to lessen tank rust and moisture buildup in the fuel and the experience will come with hours put in. It’s always fun to see what Waldo is working on. ✌️
Oil filter installation tips, wipe the o-ring with fresh oil and install by hand, only use your hand to tighten the filter. Never use a wrench to tighten oil filters. You can bind the o-ring and ruin it causing leaks. Also if you get lucky and don't ruin the o-reig they will be over tight and much harder to get off the next time.
Man, I thoroughly LOVED this video you made! You were humble enough to show your oil change goof and to admit you were an inexperienced operator. But you showed all the common sense steps from initial transport prep to actual transportation which was really interesting. Although I am curious how much these oversize and overweight permits ran you plus delivery costs per mile. I think one other problem you'll run into sooner than later will be finding industrial replacement parts for this 1986 LIebherr 926 excavator. I sure hope you post more videos of GUNTHER. Yes, in Deutsche, “hard, strong man" is befitting this 40-ton beast.
This engine would be no problem on parts here in the US due to numerous engines being in the industrial sector. The problem with parts may be in the machine other components
Check the grease fittings, you will need a grease gun and probably around 5-10 tubes of grease to make sure there is no metal on metal grinding on the machine.
Go ahead and get a cordless one and definitely get the locking head. If any zerks are frozen or broken replace asap. I have a Takeuchi TB228 and it takes a tube every 8hrs. This thing will need a case on hand.
Since the cab doesn't have any glass on it, unless you've added it since this came out, it would probably be a good idea to wear eye protection along with your hearing protection just incase a shard of rock gets launched at the cab when you're digging.
@@Drewdayz2419 dang that was rude...joking lol. But if a tooth chips or breaks it could send shards into you, as well as rocks. Now what's the probability of that happening? Low. But a sheet of lexan is cheaper than a hospital bill.
@@Drewdayz2419 I bet the only time I have my window closed is when I'm using a breaker. Growing up on a pipe crew back in the 90s, if you had your window closed when working somebody was likely to throw a rock through it. Haha. I was taught old school for sure.
Hello Waldo, I've scanned a few comments below and I'm just going to dump on a few more. 1) that's a hydraulic machine and needs more throttle. 2) bury the rocks deeper or you'll be seeing them again. 3) suggest buying a few hours of an experienced operator's time to give you some training. That thing is large enough to hurt you and break things. 4) keep an eye out at auction for another bucket. Might be cheaper than any repairs. 5) another reason it was cheap is it has no "thumb". 7) buy a big pressure washer. Spend a day washing that thing down. The next day, do it again. My experience is that the third time you will still find major dirt. A clean machine will much more pleasant to work on when you have to change hydraulic hoses. I have a BE 13 hp., 3500 psi, 4 1/2 gallon that works great on big iron. A clean machine also makes it easier to spot cracks, loose bolts, and other broken stuff. 8) put money aside. Hydraulic hoses aren't cheap.
Great advise! I also vote for Hanz... Waldo, Keep the throttle up to max, You are lacking in power and cooling. As for Hydraulic Hoses, I replaced every single hose on my Yanmar VIO50 with Tough Guard custom made hoses from Discount Hydraulic Hose.
If you really want to know why it is so cheap. Look up parts for it. Then add in labor. Also you should save those rocks instead of burying them. Great for landscaping or retaining walls. Also you can sell them.
Honestly, parts aren't all that expensive, at least for some manufacturers. (I'd expect CAT and Case being an exception) For example, I have a 32 ton Daewoo (company goes by Doosan now) that I replaced a leaky hydraulic center swivel on. It's a part that's too heavy for me to pick up, probably a little over 200 pounds. An OEM replacement was only $800. And Chinese knockoffs were about half, had I chosen to go that route.
That rock would probably fetch around $500 if it looks good(I know, a good looking rock😂, but people definitely pay for them) 15 rocks that size at $500 each would PAY FOR YOUR EXCAVATOR!
@@ryanthosome there is a garden nursery near me that sells large rocks and they have pricetags on them between like $200 and $600 depending on size and shape. Maybe could supply them to a nursery near him?
One big issue with those Liebherr classics before the Litronic came out is the hydraulic oil cooler mounted on the top and filling with dust and dirt along with leaking oil. The hydraulic system runs so hot that they leak like crazy and the hoses don't hold up. Very problematic if run steady. Parts are very expensive if available, especially from Liebherr. There is a guy in Erie Pennsylvania that sells reman pumps etc for many of them.
Going round in circles is known as slewing, curling the bucket in is crowding and the short piece is the dipper, the next piece is the boom connected to machine at the boom foot, hope you have many years of hard work and pleasure from your purchase. When moving a boulder of unknown size best practice is the tracks pointing at it not digging over the side like you were, happy digging 👍🏻🏴
@@piperdoug428 a stick here in Scotland is something that you throw for your dog, and if I was big enough to through that one I’d be bigger than Tom Stoltman 🏴or Brian Shaw 🇺🇸 😂👍🏻🏴
When you change out the teeth. You aught to consider hard facing the side of the bucket. This will help give longevity to the bucket, and it’ll give you another skill in welding. Plus with all the rocks you’re going to have to move it’ll certainly keep the bucket more usable longer. There is actual hard facing welding filler, but I’ve also seen folks just use a standard 70 series rod/wire. Hope this helps! Love the video
Who do you use for your oil analysis? and what are you looking for on first one. I drive semi. I see getting analysis over many. I started doing on my truck when I bought it. I use Blackstone.
Günther "the rock hunter" Just like my German mini Schnauzer. How much did the trailer transport cost (per KM/hour)? And how much did you spend so far on maintenance and consumables?
I have watched this video twice now and I have really enjoyed it! I have a lot of experience with those machines. Approximately 35 years, give or take, operating and fixing them, or transporting them... of many sizes. Very nice video Waldo
5:50 Geez, that really puts it into perspective the size of this unit. So far, it looks like you scored on this one, no blown hydraulic lines or other obvious major issues. I'm used to seeing the stuff Matt (channel: DieselCreek) buys. I really like the metric units you add to the video. So I was right; it is turbo charged. I kept hearing what sounded like a turbo every time you stopped moving the excavator.
You need to replace the O rings in the arm. when you got out to insect your hole that you dug the bucket kept moving down which means that the seals are bad. However, its cheap so maybe not.
Two Tips: 1) get an electric grease gun if you don't have one already. I know Milwaukee has two different ones. I assume most other companies like DeWalt and Riobi probably have them too. 2) You should look into selling the rocks. Where you live everyone has them in their yards, but in other places that is not the case. I live in South Jersey and it's flat and rockless, so if we want rocks of any size we have to buy them. Just something to think about.
If you live in an area with underground frost during winters and bury boulders back into the ground you should ensure that the entire boulder is well below the depth where the soil still freezes if you really never want to see it again. I even a tip of the boulder is in the soil region which freezes during winters the frost could proceed through the boulder and start a pumping action below the boulder, rising it by a very small amount every winter. It may take many many years but eventually a hump starts to appear on the lawn and then finally the boulder is revealed.
x2. As I was watching this as soon as he started to re-bury that boulder my mind said "rookie mistake". Contrary to popular belief rocks are a crop and they grow out of the soil every year.
I'm loving the mental image of an operator getting frustrated with the seized throttle lever, putting more and more force into it until it just snaps off with them holding the broken piece up with an 'ohh shi-' look on their face lol.
Always make sure the replacement air filter is the EXACT same length. We had a postal vehicle come in once for a bad engine with low miles on it and they used a filter that was just 3/4" shorter so none of the air going into the engine was being filtered so the cylinders and rings were shot!
Take good care of that engine, and keep it revved, and it will outlast the rest of the unit. That Deutz might as well be a aircraft engine, reliable (if maintained) as it is. Great video, Great guy, keep up the good work man.
I love this video! Thank you for sharing. It’s good to see old equipment have second life. A lot of machinery out there that is begging for another shot but unfortunately gets scrapped…. Btw, for someone who has never used a large excavator before, that wasn’t too shabby at all!
Those boulders are fantastic for landscaping! They are 10 cents a pound here in Los Angeles. My heart sank when that BEAUTIFUL NATURAL SCULPTURE WAS BURRIED! I'll give you 5 cents a pound for it! Love your channel. : )
I'm glad that air box is oriented downwards. When I was overseas I was in charge of taking care of the ground equipment in my unit because I was an automotive and diesel mechanic back home. We had a small crane with an air filter like that but it was sideways. I got called out to look at it because it wouldn't start. Something in me said to check the airbox and lo and behold the box was literally half full of dusty sand packed so dense that when I popped the cover barely any fell out. According to the paint marker on the filter it hadn't been changed since March of 2004 and it was November of 2011. I had to dig the sand out by hand just so I could remove and knock out the filter as we didn't have a replacement at the time. Started right up afterwards. Absolutely ridiculous how long people can let these machines go without maintenance.
Despite the large rocks, your backyard is amazingly green and beautiful. I also must say how excellent your editing skills are. This was one high quality video. Thanks!
I learned a long time ago, anything made in Germany is quality! I drive a Mercedes Benz 300 SD turbo diesel car with over 400,000 miles. 1983. Most of my parts I find at LKQ junkyards. I buy after market parts online. German engineered is none other! Good job on maintenance sir! Oil and oil filters are the life of that engine. That large air filter too! What a deal on that excavator!
Depending on how much you plan on using that machine and how much you'll be digging rocks it might be worth looking into weld on shanks rather than just welding on new teeth. It will make future dentistry jobs much easier as you wear out the teeth. I'd also consider building a thumb. Compared to the some of the other projects you've taken on it'd be easy and it's so much nicer when dealing with rocks and trees. We've built a couple for our older machines and almost all of our newer machines have commercially available add-ons so if you need any pictures and/or measurements let me know.
Just a suggestion, in order to make your machine steadier, have the tracks in line with the bucket, meaning that the tracks will be facing in the same direction as the bucket.
Hey Waldo, I can't help think that a separate channel dedicated to detailed tutorials would be a symbiotic relationship. Monetarily for you, great "how to's" for us. Your skills and camera presence, combined with being well versed and clear enunciation. 👌
YES!, his articulation, his clarity, lack of the ''jitters'' , mechanical ability , he only needs to work on his bucket placement for oil draining, do not know about you, but I saw an ''oil bath'' before it happened. LOL
Make sure to get those rocks deep enough. If they aren't 12"+ (ideally 18"+) below the surface, grass can have a tough time growing, compared to grass around it.
I remember learning about frost wedging in high school. How the frost gets under rocks during winter and heaves them upwards to the surface. As a kid I always had to pick rocks out of plowed fields every spring and wondered where they kept coming from so that learned high school lesson really hit home with me. Watching you bury that large bolder my mind was churning thinking, Don't do it! Get rid of it. It'll be back to haunt you sometime when your lawn is looking great again then you can dig it up,,,,,again! Food for thought, dig them once and get rid of them for good!
A couple of questions: how much was the cost to transporting your excavator from the sales yard to your property? That is part of the cost of acquisition. My second question is why wouldn't you want to power wash the machine before working on it.? Tanks!
Waldo I don’t know if you will read this but man you sure know a lot about everything !!! You don’t find many that knows how to fabricate and mechanic, weld and rebuild just about anything!!!
Approach with he tracks facing what youre digging in, not sideways. An excavators power is in the bucket when trying to move something big and heavy like rocks curl the bucket instead of pulling the arms up. Once warmed up keep the throttle at or near 100%. Give it a litle while to cool down at idle speed when youre done. Its nice to see someone admitting they dont know how to something. You learn by making mistakes too. I had no idea these things could be so cheap but theres an auction near me im going to have to check out.
Next time, take the grass off first. Use a normal old shovel and just get under the grass and take it off in sheets. Set it aside, then dig away. Once done, you fill the hole back in with dirt, then take your INTACT sheets of grass and lay it back over the area. This will save you A LOT of re-growing time.
Two free tips on the DEUTZ engine. Hot pressure wash completely the interior of the engine, cylinder liner fins, oil cooler and cooling fan. This is a MUST to keep the operating temperature of the engine under control and not to size a piston. All should be completely clean 100% without any grease, dust or paint.. Second tip: when you operate a DEUTZ engine you should keep the engine speed ALWAYS above 80% of full throttle rpm. If you operate it to slower peeds, the engine cooling fan will not provide enough air to cool it and you will overheat the engine and seize a piston. Bonus: always keep all air cooling compartment covers and seals correctly positioned for not to escape any cooling air and all the air goes through the liners and cylinder head fins. Enjoy your Liebherr.
I appreciate the tips! 👍
Yes, keep it clean and RPM for cooling. Never, NEVER use either on these. They don't like it. And, they are not easy or cheap to rebuild properly.
@@WaldosWorld I would go ahead and change the fan belt just for cheap preventive maintenance.
The inner air filter is a super fine element and if it starts clogging it will act low on power like a clogged fuel filter.
We always use a paint pen on the filters to write the date and hours when changed.
Keep up the cool videos !!!
Very good advice.
Make sure whenyou pressure wash those engines they are cool as you could warp the piston ,if it,s the air type cooling engine ,been there when driver washed engines off after hard day working it .it always the one from the fan that blow
There is a “no spill” adapter that threads onto those fittings, that has a hose on it, so you can eliminate the mess, as you thread it on, it opens the valve up, they are crucial with nasty diesel oil. Not gonna lie, watching you take an oil bath had me laughing! Great video!
That’s what I was thinking. I’ve seen it used on tekauchi excavators
They are called Femco drainer hose and come in straight, 90 or 45-degree hose styles.
Thank you! I'll have to pick one up 👍
@@WaldosWorld any heavdyduty supplier should have them, I got one from my local “traction” for my 6.7 Cummins dodge, they are a tractor-trailer parts supplier. They work great!
Valvomax is what you want
I am an old Diesel guy, heavy duty lubricants guy. Story: In 1990's on Long Island,
an air cooled Diesel same as yours in a rock crusher was turning motor oil to tar. They first blamed our motor oil (of course) we went out to have a look. We found that the plasic blade cooling fan had passed so much grit-filled air that it widdled down to nothing it no longer passed much air and the engine was toasting it's oil. (Before hydro cracked base stocks I guess)
So, have a look at your cooling fan and make sure it is good as new. Maybe depends upon the region.
The ducting/sheet metal shroud is also very important to force air to coolers. Don't let anyone run the motor without it. Seal any gaps to force all the air through the coolers. Also, feel the exhaust manifold near each cylinder during a cold start to see if all reach temperature similarly and you can tell allot by that.
New hydraulic fluids are better and so are greases. A good moly or graphite grease matters, high tack helps too.
Seal conditioners in some hydraulic fluids can help restore valve seals and piston seals. Tranny fluid works pretty darn good too.
Some folks even use motor oil in the entire machine.
Manufacturer has recomendations but those are long outdated.
Synthetics are a great way to go whenever possible especially in a machine that sits.
Keep a 55 gallon drum of hydraulic handy. Also order hoses ahead of time, maybe learn to make your own. Check any rubbing points. Make sure you reinstall clips and isolators and and ad if you have to do any wiring. Anything touching the motor or frame can be short lived. Diesels will vibrate through wire insulation, hoses and fuel lines quick. Thats why so many clips on those fuel lines, there for a reason!
Thanks for the valuable info!
Yep fine dust settles in to the air cooling plates and such I worked on small deutz diesels in ditch witch trenchers. They suck.
Great tips!
Thanks
HEY - if you're not making money off of it anymore - I may can get a straight answer - how long does Hydraulic fluid really last in a closed system -- Im being told 10 years or more if not contaminated by something - does that have any value in it - is there anything that can be added to make it last longer - I use kubota stuff - is there better hydra oils - and - any grease that works much better - Im having to grease up a lot more than I think I should - even with high tack - lucas -
As mentioned about keeping the engine clean, there is an access cover on the side of the engine to clean the cylinder liners . Secondly Always keep a spare fan belt as they take a lot of abuse . Also, ALWAYS ALLOW THE TURBO TO COOL DOWN AFTER A HEAVY USE ! you should idle the engine at least 5 mins .Always change the inner air filter with the outer .
Consider using a Dry Ice Cleaning machine for the cylinder fins. None Better!!
Ok on
That is wasteful, if the inner is clean, let it ride.
@-_-DJ-_--- Why so the engine can overheat to self destruction ? I have rebuilt and replaced hundreds of these engines for this reason .
@apacheone3643 Not the cleaning, that you cannot skimp on. I meant the inner filter, it is not going to overheat from a clean air filter. It wouldn't overheat from a dirty one either.
as a German and a mechanic, daily working on excavators and sometimes old Deutz motors this video has me smiling. keep up the good work you have a very reliable machine there
How much do excavators like these cost in Germany used?
in this condition around 10,000 to 13,000 euros approximately but its depending on the seller an/or if the machine has leaks. in Germany its quite difficult to haul equipment over 40 tons even for trucking companies.
@@user-pe8ir4iy1e If you go for machines over 40 tons they could be very cheap about 5000 to 7000 euros but you have to transport it and that costs a lot. and machines in that 40 ton category the sellers know exactly that they are "wanted". you have to watch out so you don't get ripped off.
@@user-bj2br6id4e thank you for the tips. I appreciate it immensely. Looking to potentially source these for export to north west africa. We have some past experiences in exporting excavators like these from The Netherlands. These low numbers work very well for export.
@@user-pe8ir4iy1e No problem happy to help you. Feel free to ask questions and you‘ll get answers 😊
Hey so I’m a apprentice in the heavy duty mechanics field in Canada and whilst I mainly work on semi-trucks one thing we learned in class whilst learning about tracks and undercarriage for equipment such as yours is that it’s a common misconception to dig on the side as you were. The machine is actually meant to dig from right on top of the front idlers. Whilst you can’t do that in every situation and I’m not bashing any operators who do dig that way it’s been proven to accelerate wear on the undercarriage components such as the bottom rollers and sprocket. Just good for thought. Cheers
this : face the hole you want to dig with the tracks. You will be able to push and pull harder, faster, deeper !
@@Barthoization Stronger!
@@pascha4527 I see what you did there... I miss Daft Punk
Thanks for the tip! 👍
oh, interesting to know
Whenever you can, you should dig with your tracks in line with where your digging with the track idler's in the front. Wont wear out your tracks and sprocket as quick. Happy digging from the 603 aswell!
drives always to the rear and square up to your dig. I agree
As well as bring the boom in closer when trying to get more strength
I vote to name it Klink after Wilhelm Klink, character in Hogan’s Hero’s. Werner Klemperer was an American actor. He was known for playing Colonel Wilhelm Klink on the CBS television sitcom Hogan's Heroes, for which he twice won the award for Outstanding Supporting Actor in a Comedy Series at the Primetime Emmy Awards in 1968 and 1969.
I was gonna say Hans but Klink (from the TV show, BUT ALSO the sound the excavator makes when it moves) fits SO much better! Haha that's amazing 👏🏻
Yes because WW2 is hysterical.
Name the excavator Hans, because Liebherr was founded by Hans Liebherr in 1949. Greetings from Germany. Btw love your channel.
Thank you!
Aye. I vote on 'Hans' 👍
How about Max as it is the largest machine you have?
Hans sounds great
How about yohan
Because of fluid mechanics (of dirt lol) that boulder will rise back out of the ground over time. I would recommend moving them rather than just reburying them. or put them a little deeper into the ground.
Nice touch, great info! thx
My neighbor did this exact thing and after only 6 years the first boulder was starting to poke up bulging the lawn. We live above the arctic circle so we have really cold winters and pretty hot summers so that probably speed things up.
It's like rock magic. They will always come back to the top. Best to just dig it out.
I know jack shit about fluid dynamics, but I'm glad that there's a rational explanation as to why my property (arizona, yeah..) "makes" rocks every time it rains. and I'm not just crazy.
Tighten those tracks before they fall off
Yay Deutz! My late father was the second Deutz dealer in the US! They can use 10-15 seconds of glow plug pre-heat and will start instantly regardless of temperature. Use a pressure washer (or steam washer) to blast off that buildup. The 913 deutz engine line is ultra reliable and can give you 40,000 hours of use if you keep it clean (cool) and feed it clean diesel fuel (good filters). I had one irrigation pump that I overhauled at age 18, and many years later, the owner brought it back with over 50,000 hours more runtime... The big air pre-filter can be cleaned by tapping it on the sides on a flat surface. Rotate it around, gently tapping the filter on the surface.
That's awesome! thanks for the tips! 👍
I’m a huge fan of deutz. Air cooled engines are one of the best things Germans ever came up with. As long as you keep everything clean like it should be they’re probably one of the MOST reliable motors ever built.
A leaf blower is a fun way to clean big filters. B)
Hey Stub. That would have been the 60s? My uncle was a dealer for Deutz gen sets. I remember him boating them to camps and providing service by boat or floatplane regardless of weather. Tough old bird from Lake of the Woods.
Luv the video... Cant wait to watch part 2! “Big Bertha” or "Fritz Vator" are 2 names that come to mind.
Gertha
As someone who’s been around large equipment all my life I can say you are doing exceptionally well for your first time👍🏽
I was with you until you re- buried the rock you could of sold for thousands.
@@garysimon7765 I agree, In States to the South of him like NJ those people pay big bucks for those rocks, although getting them there would cost a bunch..
Just what I was thinking
I thought I was pretty good until I kept getting cussed out for messing the grade up
@@garysimon7765 ditto on the boulder...I was thinking using it as ornamental/hardscaping in the front
Word of advice, when prying on big rocks always try to keep the bucket on the ground and pry by curling, prevents unnecessary strain on pins and is easier on the machine, absolutely loved the video 👍
Hey Jonathan that was an awesome tip. I'm 60 years old and I've been operating equipment since I was young and included an equipment operator in the CB. I've never thought of that or heard that. Idea thank you for that.
Same goes for any equipment really. Your bucket curl is the strongest breakout force because of how much leverage there is, especially when you add a second point of contact by using the ground as a fulcrum. Good advice.
James b science
@@jamesb2291 it also transfers the stress to the steel "box frame" that is the bucket, instead of much more expensive hydraulic/mechanical parts being stressed.
much better leverage as well.
Great video. First time watcher here. I’m a heavy equipment mechanic in MD. If I could give you one piece of advice whenever digging especially something hard like a rock position the tracks so you are digging over the idlers and not the side. You don’t want to dig over the final drives (planetary gear boxes with the sprockets) because that shock can hurt the bearings and gears and they are not cheap. Keep up the good work
Yes! Was thinking same thing
Agreed, don't dig over the side, it's also not as stable.
Aligning tracks parallel to the load should be common sense...
@@moonshine7374 I'm sure you meant perpendicular.
@@moonshine7374 Did you do it when you first operated an excavator?
Because they're completely worn out and every single repair is tens of thousands
And if you can still get parts.
Even doing 10 10k repairs makes this thing a deal and of course it doesn't need that much work especially if you own a welder and have a propensity for fixing things on your own. My guess is your the type of person that doesn't like to spend time fixing things and that's fine.
Same here. Go find case parts for an 86!!!😂😂😂😂
I agree, but if you had a ton of land, and this thing ran reliably for you for 3 months, it would pay for itself 10x over.
They are usually so cheap because the companies filed bankruptcy and the bank auctions them off for almost nothing if they look in rough shape. If you're a good welder/ mechanic you can buy these things and then start your own rental company. Out in the east of my state there's surface mining equipment everywhere because so many companies went out of business when they cut down on coal mining.
There’s nothing quite so satisfying as taking something that is old and needing work, and fixing it up to workable condition again. Great video!
A lot of old tools can sometimes be better than the newer version.
Seems you have no idea about what satisfaction stands for 🤣
I couldn't agree more! Best way to make it your own.
Shut up you IDIOT.
@@madloop3217 apparently you do so why don't you tell us about it
Always worth running drop of oil around the seal on a new filter, and don't use the filter wrench to tighten the filter - you can see where you damaged the new oil filter in the video!
I just came across this video and it is the first video of yours that I have seen. I own my own excavation company and can tell you that a hot bath is not necessarily the best thing to remove grease. If you get a pump up pressure sprayer and put diesel in it and spray the entire tractor off with diesel, it will remove the grease instead of spreading it. If you repeat the process twice, you’ll be pretty clean. Hope this helps.
Wash the machine with diesel fuel? I'm guessing this isn't %100 fuel. I know when we would prep our equipment for winter storage, we would mix 2/3 diesel fuel with 1/3 waste oil and used a little misting can to spray.
Wash with diesel? Do we call the Hazmat team before hand?
@@zxcvbnmasdfghjkl51 no sir. Don’t wash it with diesel. Your just putting a light mist (getting it wet) with diesel, so that the grease doesn’t stick to the tractor when you pressure wash it with water.
@@danieledrich6602 not washing with diesel. Pressure wash with water after lightly misting with diesel. You’re washing the grease off. The diesel helps the grease not stick to the tractor.
@@guidesoutdoors Cool, thanks for following up. Makes sense.
Good that the parts are still available, and the machine is of a vintage that doesn't get obsoleted for lack of electronics and software :-)
Nice work, good machine. You’re gonna want to make sure the top of the bolder is at least four feet below the surface below the frost line. We have a saying in CT, rocks grow best. The water gets below them and freezes, then pushes them back to the surface. I cut over 100 trees in my yard, about 36 of them were between 100-125 feet tall. Stumped it all out to make a field, and all the boulders I left in the soft soil I disturbed have poked up to the top. Also learn Fromm your mistake and try to keep your top soil and fill in separate piles when you dig the holes so when you fill them back in the top soil remains for grass to grow
I was thinking as a fun game, mark the calendar and see how ling it takes to frost heave. Maybe make a pool with a prize for the winner!
Hmmm - I did think the bolder was not buried deep enough
Montana is the same way
Same thoughts. He will absolutely be digging that Boulder up again.
It’s not like you don’t have an excavator. Put that boulder down about 6 feet.
I am 74 now. As teenager i was equipment operator an did some repair. When in my mid twenties to mid thirties, I was a heavy equipment mechanic. I bought several pieces of heavy equipment and repaired them. Wonderful hobby, repairing my own equipment. In mid thirties I realized it would be very hard when I got older it might be too hard to continue. I went back to school and learned computer programming. I retired with twenty plus years in computer automation. Since my retirement I learned to buld apps. I freelance now.
Blogblocks, like you, I switched careers but we never forget Diesel work. Don't know if you ever had the pleasure of starting an old Cat with a pony motor!
Who the fck cares boomer?
@@nyplantings2420 Nobody cares grandpa!!
Hey men I am learning computer programming to get by in a 3erd world country. I live remote in a farm and I have no programmer friends , it would be nice to have a friend to talk to about my crazy computer questions , do you think we can connect ?
I'm a 25 year old man and had plans on going in to welding I've been welding all my life and was going to make a career out of it. However I lost all my toes due to frostbite, so I'm going to find myself following a path like you did. I'm still very strong and can walk just fine and do heavy lifting all day, I just know im not going to be able to it for long.
That engine is a gem. Had an old worn out one back in '95 used in a scrap yard....got that 6 pot air cooled diesel running a treat......tighten heads...they work loose and reset tappets.....easy! loved it
Where’s part 2?
It's been a year I don't think we're ever getting p2
@@NeaonBHB2 years
A bit of advice, when excavating something as large as a bolder have your track facing it straight, and not sideways with it, you can tip over an excavator that way, it jumps a lot and, also, the idlers to the back to keep the weight behind the machine.
PS: Just noticed that the excavator is also leaning towards the bolder as well on a slope which makes it even more prone to tip over or bounce a lot
Happy excavations to you, these are fun to run...
Came here to say don't work downslope and don't pull to the side.
Obviously you don't own a Machine the size. It cannot easily tip over.
@@luism.5999 on a slope lifting an extremely heavy boulder it is definitely prone to tipping, especially with how extended that arm was.
@@bobswaget118 Stop mate, you clearly dont know about heavy machinery.
Its a 30 tonne machine there wasn't a hope in hell she was going to tip over
Lot of helpful tips in this comment section. Refreshing to see the togetherness of this community. Some other channels are just atrocious with everyone attacking each other.
In my next life (and if I am born a boy next time) I'm going into construction!
Here's a tip for oil filter change with less of a mess. Once you get it turning put a plastic bag over the filter then unscrew the rest of the way with your hands and work area protected from any spills.
Punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and drain it into a bucket before removing. Their lighte/ easier to work with
@@garygodwin9263 How hard is it to get through it? WIll a screw driver do it?
Never heard of that one before. I may have to keep that one in mind
@@vvvvgggg the filters housing isn't very thick. I would hold a nail with vise grips against the bottom of the filter and a couple of light taps with whatever was handy did the trick. I used vise grips to hold the nail to keep oil off my hand when the nail went thru the filter casing, it was a little less awkward position where I was working too
I'm not exactly sure why TH-cam recommended this video to me, but I LOVED it and can't wait to watch more videos on your channel. I think the last thing I needed was another channel to be obsessed with, but here we are!
YT algo is good at finding the autists.
@Blake because this video was already shown to other users with a very similar view history as your's and a lot of these people watched most or all of this video or interacted (like, comment, sub) and so TH-cam assumes it might fit the interests of people like you quite well and keeps recommending it to people with similar view history = interests.
Same here. Great to see new life brought back rusty equipment.
Do you watch Andrew Camarata? If you watched this and liked it, I highly recommend his channel.
Haha 7:23 I guess we can call it “Oil change gone wrong!” 😂
Congrats on the machine! Liebherr makes great equipment. Just note that those should be ran at high throttle to get the fan to move enough air to keep it cool. 👍
sounds ripe for a mod
Was going to say this exact thing. Most air cooled tractors and excavators are this way. Need the extra forced air running over the radiator to keep cool.
@@bschmitty77 if its air cooled it wouldn't have a radiator.
@@FlyinRaptorJesus the term RADIATOR isn't limited to water to air type. The fins on an air cooled engine IS THE RADIATOR. Its the component that "radiates' the heat.
Ahhh you beat me to it! I was cringing watching it operate at low throttle. He meant well but it's certainly not helping the machine or his operating skills, as they are designed to operate under power and higher rpm. Good job pointing this out. Those engines need the RPM's in order to run cooler, even though it seems backwards. They will eventually get hot if your lugging them down,especially on a machine like this where you can see that its taking a bunch of power just using one boom function at a time. Once they turn the power on, it should be easier for him to lurn how to operate it correctly. I remember trying to learn how to run log loader at quarter throttle, until the owner came over and pushed the lever into bunny and told me to leave it there whenever I had my hands on the joysticks haha. And that was WITH a radiator. He would have popped my head off if he would have seen me idling an air cooled.
I worked at this type of equipment for my fathers farm and wold make one comment when dealing with older stuff like this. We bought a steam/ hot water power washer and it changed my life. The accumulated oily grime that infests every inch of machines like this can be cleaned off with relative ease making working at them a much more pleasant experience, it also reduces the risk of grit and grime getting into important parts during maintenance and helps stop you getting a thick coating of greasy grit on arms and face. Nice machine looks like it will respond well to a little care. One other point check all the major hoses and replace any sketchy ones before they let go on site, it can save aeges of wasted site time.
That power washer would do wonders on the air and oil cooler, getting them to operate at peak efficiency
@@michaeldwyer4994 True, low power and high heat, little soap injection come up like new for sure.
Mercedes Van-Doors what brand pressure washer do you like
@@jasondavis2810 Most of my washers have been home builds for specific tasks but I like Simpson because of the CAT pumps, My current hot water washer is a Comet and it will make steam at good pressure which is ideal for greasy machinery. The one I have for use around home currently is a gas engine Wolf from Amazon with a little wobble pump and it didn't cost much, is light to move around goes like a Trojan, just not sure for how long it will keep going. What about you?
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ I am blessed to be able to say I am saved by grace and heaven bound, not by my own good but by the blood of Jesus Christ which was shed for me.
$7500 for a running machine, no matter the size, is amazing. I'd have expected bad engine, failing hydraulic pump, cracked boom, and a half dozen other issues for that price.
The jury is still out...
@@lucymuttdmire1008 Ehhhhhh. he get his money back in scrap alone. I'd say this is a very good buy
Sometimes things get deprecated out, sold at auction, and replaced with a new one to start the depreciation cycle again.
@@QuietRiverBear Depreciation allowance long-since over for that machine.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb for the first owner, absolutely. As a business, you can depreciate new to you equipment as well. It’s not uncommon for equipment to ride the depreciation waterfall through several businesses. I don’t know the history of that machine, so take my pure speculation with a health gain of salt.
0:34 Some of the Glass is missing? 😶😶😶
I use to be from NH built in MASS, Excavating contractors use to give estimates off of the site plan for septic, material needed, stumping, cella hole and back fill, utility lines, driveway, basement prep et-cetera. The only additional would be the unknown boulders over a certain size and if ledge needed to be blasted out. Then someone somewhere somehow started the idea of " Hourly rate per machine plus trucking." Tried another contractor and realized it was the "New norm". I once showed up on a job to meet the operator, 7 am as we drank our coffee (pre-cell phone days) we went over what needed to be done. I left after about 1/2 hr (hr meter running while machine warmed up) and an hr and a half later forgot to mention something so I drove back he was still in the same place talking with another contractor that was working next door still drinking coffee. That was it for me besides. They also charged per yard for material and for kicks I calculated a dropped load and low and behold short of what I ordered. You never got what they charged. I once mentioned, pissed off to one site contractor that I was going to buy my own machines. His reply HA I would not. Do you know how much the parts cost? So I did what you did I found an old Hitachi ex-120 Had no clue how to operate it and figured I made a mistake but I stayed with it and in 40 hrs I was efficient and confident enough to have at it. Your machine can pay for itself in a week. Great job great vid.
Yup and that's why I purchased a 307 Cat. Between ponds and trenching and logging and loading the sawmill... I don't know how I ever got along without it. I have a total of about $15k invested after rehabing all the neglected pieces parts. I too had never run one before and once the muscle memory finally takes over and you don't have to think about every move it is truly magical. I spent a week going over every part and replacing every zerk fitting etc. Worth every minute and every penny. 👍😎👌
I had an ex-120. Great machine. Same as the John Deere except the engine was different. FWIW the system that everyone explained to me for dropped loads is number of bucket size scoops into the truck. Bank c. yards, truck c. yards and dumped c. yards don't match each other because of variations in compaction. So if you go to the landscaping yard with a 3 yard dump and buy 3yds of topsoil it won't measure 3yds in the bed, but they will give you 3 1yd bucket scoops.
I wish somebody would make a book filled with anecdotes like this!!
What about part 2? When will that be released?
Really curious how it performs after some time... and the lab results of course!
WE NEED PART 2!
10 months with no part 2 suggests either something fell apart, small update hidden in one of the later videos or something big is ongoing
Probably lost interest, just like my kids after 2 days with new toy
@@vitaliypro8441 🤣
Maybe he can't find any more boulders? I had thought this boulder was much bigger. And why bury these boulders? But I don't understand this kind of thing. And why bury these boulders? But I don't understand this kind of thing. In the flat Holland you will only find large boulders in Drenthe [Havelte]. They call them Dolmens. Number D53 was built between 3400 and 3100 BC. [wikipedia]
Hey Waldo, I like your show and admire your skills and guts to tackle big jobs. One tip, tie shop rags around your wrist's to stop liquid from going to your armpits during overhead service. LOL. I really like the projects you share. Keep up the great work.
yuppers!! me too!!
Was it so cheap because you can only move one bolder with it? I cant find part 2
where is part 2 and 10?
Those Deutz air cooled units are great engines, easy to work on, But replacement parts are vary expensive so take good care of it. I worked for Atlas Copco Wagner Mining Equipment Co as a diesel mechanic for 18 years and we put a lot of Deutz engines in our machines. Those batteries you used should more then ample in that machine, no need to upgrade to the larger battery if everything works fine. Also the next time you change your oil you can install a remote oil drain on the engine, simple to do, we did it all the time on our machines for that simple fact. Also you can steam clean or low pressure power wash the inside of the engine to keep clean the oil coolers that’s important. The oil is the life blood of the machine. While I’m talking about oil have you heard of IXL Oil Conditioner products???, I’ve been using this brand for over 30 years in my personal gasoline car engines, axles, transmissions. You’ll have to go online to the IXL store or maybe a diesel truck shop. They have a great line of products. You might want to install a oil temperature gauge and maybe a pyrometer gauge in the future. Also if and when servicing the hydraulic filter and system when refilling and I’m not sure of the hydraulic system design but pre-fill the hydraulic filter so you don’t run the hydraulic pumps in a dry state on restart after service. Then when the machine is not in use have the boom n bucket in a down position that all the hydraulic cylinder rams are retracted into the hydraulic cylinders to protect them from external damage, you don’t want to have to replace one, Probably over 1,000.00 dollars. The big thing to remember is if you break something on that machine you could be easily over the original price you paid for the machine, just don’t do anything stupid. Happy digging👍👍
Hi, I remember those Wagner scoop trams we used in an underground mine here in Mexico. Great machines back at the time +/- 1998-2003. They were replaced eventually with Sandviks.
Any idea where I can get such a machinery for that price?
Don't do anything stupid, words to live by.
@@jpkatz1435 I try to but like everyone else I fail from time to time, can’t bat 500 everyday
No way dis matafuka typed all dis shit out.
South western PA equipment tech here. Those are the best damn engines you could ever ask for. They are almost bullet proof. Soooo easy to work on. The only thing to watch for is the timing belt. They are interference engines. If the belt breaks or slips it will bend every push tube in it. However, still super easy to change because it’s oil cooled! No mess taking the head off. P.S. that Stauffer diesel that rebuilt it is the authority on these engines on the east coast. If they don’t have the part, it doesn’t exist. Good luck man. Enjoy
Interesting, thanks for the info!
That air f I'll lter fir my 6 cyl chevy
No timing belt - push rod engine - gear driven camshaft - directly off the crankshaft
a timing belt on a deutz ......
A 913 does not have a timing Belt. The 2011/ 1011's have
the only issue i see with burring the rock is the frost pushing them back up.
Just gotta put them below the frost line
He puts a blanket over them at the start of winter. Easy.
just bury them a bit deeper
that's exactly what I wanted to say, because it looks very shallow
The Colonel - Klink! 😊
You should keep the boulders for landscaping instead of burying them. Always enjoy your videos. Hopefully we get a part 2 follow up.
Yup. I would have dragged it over to start a traditional European stone wall!
Spot on ... value adding
Yep, nothing better than creating a lawn mower obstacle course out of your lawn with giant boulders. The previous owner of my house created the same kind of course man do I ever appreciate it everytime I mow 🤬
Been away from the excavating for many years, but after 30 yrs owning I suggest 1) grease every fitting regularly and replace/repair any that don't accept grease (sometimes just raising to remove weight from pin hydraulically will allow fitting to accept grease 🤞, other times untreated impacted grease/dirt requires pin removal) one reason it's inexpensive, but you did a good buy it seems. Many experienced responders on here.
2) I don't think new teeth are a priority (won't help) for your application as long as they aren't worn through to the shank inside tooth.
Your smaller backhoe loader will level up and grade for you once you get the touch.
Usually the grease fittings that won’t take aren’t the fittings but instead the grease port is blocked with metal/dirt/ or old grease that has hardened.
Tip on that oil drain plug: Install a short hydraulic hose with a valve or a hydraulic coupling at the end. This will provide better control when draining, and the latter option gives you very low spillage and also provides a way of draining into a sealable container.
That’s usin the ole noggin, as my dad use to say.
Use tin foil as a funnel. Place it so it catches the oil and flows to the bucket
Even better than my suggestion to use a funnel or a simple chute/spillway.
There is a drain adapter to use in the first oil plug hole removed. Opens as it's screwed in!
I like Hans as a name! And if you ever get a small excavator of dozer, you can name it Franz.
As for the way it operates, it sounds like it's really laboring when you use more than one function at a time. That is usually from clogged fuel filters, so hopefully when you get the primary filter replaced, Hans will operate smoother.
I don't think he's old enough to get that reference lol
Some other old fashion German names are for example Siegfried, Wolfgang or Herbert.
Also Hans Liebherr was the Founder of the Liebherr Company.
@@darylzero3139 Maybe you'll have to "Pump him up"!
Thank you! I'm also hoping that it's caused by the fuel filter that I haven't replaced yet 😬
Love how this solution to your problem seems so overkill but also so cheap and measured
You got one heck of a deal there Waldo, Beast mode love it. Otto is going to look great with a new paint job.
yes i vote for otto
Tip: you crushed the filter while tightening it with those pliers. In fact oil pressure is not as high as you may think(cat c15 manual says dependent on rpm between 40-80 psi). This means if you have properly cleaned and lubed the surface of the filter and the filter housing, hand tight is usually enough (depending on grip strength). If not a filter socket or the metal band style filter wrench are best. Pliers are for taking off not putting on.
Many brands even have instructions right on the side, like "oil gasket, spin on until gasket contact then 2/3 to 3/4 turn more"
he barely put a dent in, smh.
@@jamesedinger1167 if it’s done wrong, that’s all there is to it. It’s not “smh” to learn from mistakes and improve. L+cringe+hillbilly mechanic
I've come to prefer the filter sockets. (A giant sheet metal socket wrench) It is why most modern filters have flats around the bottom.
"Crushed".... ROFL....
Great video. As a general rule, always dig over your track idlers. It is the best for the track frame and final drives.
What does that mean
@@mudsuckingpig6246 He means have the tracks of the machine pointing towards the direction he is digging and have the drives (sprockets) behind him.
Great video. I’m wondering how much it cost you to get home?
You could do some serious terraforming with that!
I watched a video the other day called something like “10 newbie excavator mistakes”.
I have never driven one either but tracks sideways then reaching out a long way to remove the unloveable object is a great way to land on your face. But I bet you have figured that out by now.
If you have to ask how much transport was, you can't afford it. REALLY!
@@blaydCA
Now that would depend on where you live and how far away. If it is half the cost of the excavator then that’s significant.
@@DavoShed Have to factor in wait times at the auction yard as well.
The big yards are BUSY, even with an appointment.
Check in after getting paperwork, then check out which burns up tons of time.
You're paying for time and milage, plus any ancillary services. Meter starts at the dispatching depot and stops when the truck returns to the depot.
Best to get flat rate price with a company familiar with the particular auction yard.
Source: Eye watering checks I've cut for lowboy trucks.
Been running excavators for 20 years and you did very well for your first time .. you'll be a good operator because you're pitcular and pay attention to fine detail 👌 keep it up!
Your enthusiastic appreciation for this machine and what it can do is so refreshing, especially when compared with some certain other popular TH-cam channels. I hope you do a lot of great things with it.
the tool you used to remove the old oil filter is only for removal. Using them to tighten a oil filter can damage the oil filter and cause it to fail. there are other tools specifically made for the thin walled oil and fuel filters. that evenly grabs all the way around the filter helping to prevent damage from occurring. other than that even those are not required due to oil filters being perfectly fine hand tightened. (Not a weak hand tight, tighten it like you would a 2 week old carton of spoiled milk that you can still smell when you close the lid so then you go a little more.)
Yeah, I have NO idea about any kind of mechanical stuff, just find it fascinating to watch... but when he installed that new filter and these tongs were squeezing and deforming it, I thought "That can't be right..."
You are right, I learned that the hard way
LOOKS LIKE A GUNTHER TO ME WALDO ,THATS MY FATHER-IN-LAWS NAME AND IT KIND OF REMINDS ME OF HIM..GREAT VIDEO WALDO
All Liebherr machines have this type of "valved plug" on all their oil drain locations. You need a special Liebherr tool fitting that comes with a piece of hose, and when you tread it to the drin valve it opens the poppet inside and allows to drain the oil through the hose. Is a must tool if you own any Liebherr equipment. Ask your local Liebherr dealer for it, the oil drain adapter and hose.
At least here in Germany,this is on basically every piece of heavy equpiment, even for draining fuel and hydraulic tanks. Caterpillar, Liebherr, Hitachi, Volvo, the same drain evrywhere
1. How much per mile did it cost to transport to your property?
2. What was your “pre-anticipated” budget for maintenance and servicing it for the first time?
3. What was your total on replacement parts?
4. What preinspection have you done before bidding?
5. What happened to part 2?
need part 2 as well
Part 2 Pleasseeee
HE NEVER DID PART 2.
Hi MM. Great questions. I'm waiting for hime to answer. Im guessing he paid 5,000.00 to move it.
Depends on how far he moved it. A few $/mile plus hourly for loading and unloading, or a flat rate.
Nice machine! Lots of iron for the price. When you’re digging something like that out, try to do it with the idlers facing the rock. It’ll be a lot more stable and you’ll be able to put more power into what you’re doing!
Yep I told em the same thing👍
Yes always keep the drive sprockets to the back of you, so it doesn't put all that weight on them while you are digging or lifting something heavy, that also acts as counter weights
I run a recycling company and I'm watching videos about heavy equipment just to know what I may need or may not need. This video truly made me happy.
In a whimsical sense, i wish you luck in your pursuits sir
Waldo, please install some plexiglass or wire meshing between you and the material you're handling. That thing has a lot of power and if some of the stone breaks off, the chips could hurt you. At least use some glasses. A friend of mine has lost an eye using digging equipment. A small metalic chip broke of somewhere and screwed up his left eye for good while working with the windshield open and no eye protection. Don't take it the wrong way, just a heads up, can happen to the best! Good buy, have fun with it and be safe
I appreciate the advice! 👍
Definitely check out your hydraulic system, check level and strainer/filters
Tighten the tracks, not overly tight but those are pretty loose. And the exhaust dumping in the engine compartment will cover everything in soot, any work you do and you’ll look like you just clocked out of a coal mine. You seem competent enough to just make repairs there so that will save you on parts. At the end of the day it’s just a machine if you keep up maintenance on one they tend to keep lasting, try not and side load your boom where you can help it, excavators are the most powerful in a dig to you motion around a 90° boom angle but as an operator myself you’re not bad at it, Smooth is fast, even it it doesn’t seem like it. Reduces wear and operator fatigue over bouncing around. Just remember the farther you are out the less control and power you have. Grease it regularly and keep the fuel tank full to lessen tank rust and moisture buildup in the fuel and the experience will come with hours put in. It’s always fun to see what Waldo is working on. ✌️
Thank you for the tips! 🤠
Oil filter installation tips, wipe the o-ring with fresh oil and install by hand, only use your hand to tighten the filter.
Never use a wrench to tighten oil filters. You can bind the o-ring and ruin it causing leaks. Also if you get lucky and don't ruin the o-reig they will be over tight and much harder to get off the next time.
Man, I thoroughly LOVED this video you made! You were humble enough to show your oil change goof and to admit you were an inexperienced operator. But you showed all the common sense steps from initial transport prep to actual transportation which was really interesting. Although I am curious how much these oversize and overweight permits ran you plus delivery costs per mile. I think one other problem you'll run into sooner than later will be finding industrial replacement parts for this 1986 LIebherr 926 excavator. I sure hope you post more videos of GUNTHER. Yes, in Deutsche, “hard, strong man" is befitting this 40-ton beast.
it probably is not that hard to order those arts new from europe tbh - they tend to be supported indifienietly.
Allow me to assist. Indefinitely.
@@Tracked350Z thank you Stinky ;)
@@psychollek mom
This engine would be no problem on parts here in the US due to numerous engines being in the industrial sector. The problem with parts may be in the machine other components
Check the grease fittings, you will need a grease gun and probably around 5-10 tubes of grease to make sure there is no metal on metal grinding on the machine.
It drove me crazy any time he moved anything it squeaked like a mf
Go ahead and get a cordless one and definitely get the locking head. If any zerks are frozen or broken replace asap. I have a Takeuchi TB228 and it takes a tube every 8hrs. This thing will need a case on hand.
Since the cab doesn't have any glass on it, unless you've added it since this came out, it would probably be a good idea to wear eye protection along with your hearing protection just incase a shard of rock gets launched at the cab when you're digging.
making some lexan panels to replace the glass would be a good idea
Got a name for your excavator
Alf Feeter Zane.
Not trying to be mean but u don’t need that to run it unless u r using a hammer attachment, promise I run one every day
@@Drewdayz2419 dang that was rude...joking lol. But if a tooth chips or breaks it could send shards into you, as well as rocks. Now what's the probability of that happening? Low. But a sheet of lexan is cheaper than a hospital bill.
@@Drewdayz2419 I bet the only time I have my window closed is when I'm using a breaker. Growing up on a pipe crew back in the 90s, if you had your window closed when working somebody was likely to throw a rock through it. Haha. I was taught old school for sure.
What an awesome video. My eyes were glued the whole time. Instant sub.
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels. Well done
Thank you!
Hello Waldo, I've scanned a few comments below and I'm just going to dump on a few more. 1) that's a hydraulic machine and needs more throttle. 2) bury the rocks deeper or you'll be seeing them again. 3) suggest buying a few hours of an experienced operator's time to give you some training. That thing is large enough to hurt you and break things. 4) keep an eye out at auction for another bucket. Might be cheaper than any repairs. 5) another reason it was cheap is it has no "thumb". 7) buy a big pressure washer. Spend a day washing that thing down. The next day, do it again. My experience is that the third time you will still find major dirt. A clean machine will much more pleasant to work on when you have to change hydraulic hoses. I have a BE 13 hp., 3500 psi, 4 1/2 gallon that works great on big iron. A clean machine also makes it easier to spot cracks, loose bolts, and other broken stuff. 8) put money aside. Hydraulic hoses aren't cheap.
Great advise!
I also vote for Hanz...
Waldo, Keep the throttle up to max, You are lacking in power and cooling.
As for Hydraulic Hoses, I replaced every single hose on my Yanmar VIO50 with Tough Guard custom made hoses from Discount Hydraulic Hose.
Hydraulic hoses aren’t cheap but you don’t need money to the side they’re not gonna make you go bankrupt and if they do you shouldn’t own the machine
If you really want to know why it is so cheap. Look up parts for it. Then add in labor. Also you should save those rocks instead of burying them. Great for landscaping or retaining walls. Also you can sell them.
Gay response.
Honestly, parts aren't all that expensive, at least for some manufacturers. (I'd expect CAT and Case being an exception) For example, I have a 32 ton Daewoo (company goes by Doosan now) that I replaced a leaky hydraulic center swivel on. It's a part that's too heavy for me to pick up, probably a little over 200 pounds. An OEM replacement was only $800. And Chinese knockoffs were about half, had I chosen to go that route.
That rock would probably fetch around $500 if it looks good(I know, a good looking rock😂, but people definitely pay for them) 15 rocks that size at $500 each would PAY FOR YOUR EXCAVATOR!
@@m4anow i can actually confirm this is correct, however finding a buyer/supplier to move the 'product' is extremely hit and miss in success rates.
@@ryanthosome there is a garden nursery near me that sells large rocks and they have pricetags on them between like $200 and $600 depending on size and shape. Maybe could supply them to a nursery near him?
One big issue with those Liebherr classics before the Litronic came out is the hydraulic oil cooler mounted on the top and filling with dust and dirt along with leaking oil. The hydraulic system runs so hot that they leak like crazy and the hoses don't hold up.
Very problematic if run steady.
Parts are very expensive if available, especially from Liebherr. There is a guy in Erie Pennsylvania that sells reman pumps etc for many of them.
Going round in circles is known as slewing, curling the bucket in is crowding and the short piece is the dipper, the next piece is the boom connected to machine at the boom foot, hope you have many years of hard work and pleasure from your purchase. When moving a boulder of unknown size best practice is the tracks pointing at it not digging over the side like you were, happy digging 👍🏻🏴
we call the dipper a stick
@@piperdoug428 a stick here in Scotland is something that you throw for your dog, and if I was big enough to through that one I’d be bigger than Tom Stoltman 🏴or Brian Shaw 🇺🇸 😂👍🏻🏴
to avoid unwanted ware on the final drive keep your tracks pointed twords the rocks when you go to pull them. make sure sprockets are in the rear.
Sounds like something a crane operator would say.
@@patricksouthgaaccountabili5829 or a track hoe operator
When you change out the teeth. You aught to consider hard facing the side of the bucket. This will help give longevity to the bucket, and it’ll give you another skill in welding. Plus with all the rocks you’re going to have to move it’ll certainly keep the bucket more usable longer. There is actual hard facing welding filler, but I’ve also seen folks just use a standard 70 series rod/wire.
Hope this helps! Love the video
Who do you use for your oil analysis? and what are you looking for on first one. I drive semi. I see getting analysis over many. I started doing on my truck when I bought it. I use Blackstone.
Amazing work! I was proud of myself for getting a $25 garage sale lawn mower working this summer. This excavator is next level!
next level to a lawn mower? This beast is some serious gourmet stuff 🤣
Why? It was already running
Don't let this video steal your thunder , your mower repair was legendary brother. Scream it from rooftops.
I can die a happy man now.
@@DJIInLondon Proof?
No necessary maybe it needEd gas, oil and cussing to get it started
Günther "the rock hunter"
Just like my German mini Schnauzer.
How much did the trailer transport cost (per KM/hour)? And how much did you spend so far on maintenance and consumables?
KM per hour that is hilarious
@@boutrosboutrosboutrosboutros he is asking per km OR per hour
i was going to go with Vilham…but gunther the rock hunter takes the cake
I have watched this video twice now and I have really enjoyed it! I have a lot of experience with those machines. Approximately 35 years, give or take, operating and fixing them, or transporting them... of many sizes. Very nice video Waldo
Damn how boring and mundane.
Stop bothering people please.
5:50 Geez, that really puts it into perspective the size of this unit.
So far, it looks like you scored on this one, no blown hydraulic lines or other obvious major issues.
I'm used to seeing the stuff Matt (channel: DieselCreek) buys.
I really like the metric units you add to the video.
So I was right; it is turbo charged. I kept hearing what sounded like a turbo every time you stopped moving the excavator.
You need to replace the O rings in the arm. when you got out to insect your hole that you dug the bucket kept moving down which means that the seals are bad. However, its cheap so maybe not.
Two Tips: 1) get an electric grease gun if you don't have one already. I know Milwaukee has two different ones. I assume most other companies like DeWalt and Riobi probably have them too. 2) You should look into selling the rocks. Where you live everyone has them in their yards, but in other places that is not the case. I live in South Jersey and it's flat and rockless, so if we want rocks of any size we have to buy them. Just something to think about.
If you live in an area with underground frost during winters and bury boulders back into the ground you should ensure that the entire boulder is well below the depth where the soil still freezes if you really never want to see it again.
I even a tip of the boulder is in the soil region which freezes during winters the frost could proceed through the boulder and start a pumping action below the boulder, rising it by a very small amount every winter. It may take many many years but eventually a hump starts to appear on the lawn and then finally the boulder is revealed.
x2. As I was watching this as soon as he started to re-bury that boulder my mind said "rookie mistake". Contrary to popular belief rocks are a crop and they grow out of the soil every year.
Agreed - I was surprised to see him just re-bury it.
I was thinking not to bury them but clean them up and try to sell them. Some people look for big boulders for landscaping.
I'm loving the mental image of an operator getting frustrated with the seized throttle lever, putting more and more force into it until it just snaps off with them holding the broken piece up with an 'ohh shi-' look on their face lol.
Always make sure the replacement air filter is the EXACT same length.
We had a postal vehicle come in once for a bad engine with low miles on it and they used a filter that was just 3/4" shorter so none of the air going into the engine was being filtered so the cylinders and rings were shot!
Take good care of that engine, and keep it revved, and it will outlast the rest of the unit. That Deutz might as well be a aircraft engine, reliable (if maintained) as it is. Great video, Great guy, keep up the good work man.
I love this video! Thank you for sharing. It’s good to see old equipment have second life. A lot of machinery out there that is begging for another shot but unfortunately gets scrapped…. Btw, for someone who has never used a large excavator before, that wasn’t too shabby at all!
Those boulders are fantastic for landscaping! They are 10 cents a pound here in Los Angeles. My heart sank when that BEAUTIFUL NATURAL SCULPTURE WAS BURRIED! I'll give you 5 cents a pound for it! Love your channel. : )
Change the hydraulic fluid. It could make a difference on how well the machine works. I had a old crane and changing the fluid helped.
I'm glad that air box is oriented downwards. When I was overseas I was in charge of taking care of the ground equipment in my unit because I was an automotive and diesel mechanic back home. We had a small crane with an air filter like that but it was sideways. I got called out to look at it because it wouldn't start. Something in me said to check the airbox and lo and behold the box was literally half full of dusty sand packed so dense that when I popped the cover barely any fell out. According to the paint marker on the filter it hadn't been changed since March of 2004 and it was November of 2011. I had to dig the sand out by hand just so I could remove and knock out the filter as we didn't have a replacement at the time. Started right up afterwards. Absolutely ridiculous how long people can let these machines go without maintenance.
M936A2? 🤔
Despite the large rocks, your backyard is amazingly green and beautiful. I also must say how excellent your editing skills are. This was one high quality video. Thanks!
I learned a long time ago, anything made in Germany is quality! I drive a Mercedes Benz 300 SD turbo diesel car with over 400,000 miles. 1983. Most of my parts I find at LKQ junkyards. I buy after market parts online. German engineered is none other! Good job on maintenance sir! Oil and oil filters are the life of that engine. That large air filter too! What a deal on that excavator!
Depending on how much you plan on using that machine and how much you'll be digging rocks it might be worth looking into weld on shanks rather than just welding on new teeth. It will make future dentistry jobs much easier as you wear out the teeth. I'd also consider building a thumb. Compared to the some of the other projects you've taken on it'd be easy and it's so much nicer when dealing with rocks and trees. We've built a couple for our older machines and almost all of our newer machines have commercially available add-ons so if you need any pictures and/or measurements let me know.
even better : get a hydraulic jackhammer. Those rocks don't stand a chance.
I was thinking about replacing the whole bucket lip. I'm waiting on a quote 😬
If there is an available hydraulic circuit to use.
You don't need an additional circuit for a thumb. They are used in a fixed position most of the time.
@@WaldosWorld why aren't you selling the rocks you dig up? The market for boulders is astonishing and you can make a ton of money!
Never a dull moment at Waldos. Another great vid!
Thanks, Bill!
Just a suggestion, in order to make your machine steadier, have the tracks in line with the bucket, meaning that the tracks will be facing in the same direction as the bucket.
That's one of the most wanted and awesome versions of this engine. Well done.
Hey Waldo, I can't help think that a separate channel dedicated to detailed tutorials would be a symbiotic relationship. Monetarily for you, great "how to's" for us.
Your skills and camera presence, combined with being well versed and clear enunciation. 👌
YES!, his articulation, his clarity, lack of the ''jitters'' , mechanical ability , he only needs to work on his bucket placement for oil draining, do not know about you, but I saw an ''oil bath'' before it happened. LOL
Make sure to get those rocks deep enough. If they aren't 12"+ (ideally 18"+) below the surface, grass can have a tough time growing, compared to grass around it.
I remember learning about frost wedging in high school. How the frost gets under rocks during winter and heaves them upwards to the surface. As a kid I always had to pick rocks out of plowed fields every spring and wondered where they kept coming from so that learned high school lesson really hit home with me. Watching you bury that large bolder my mind was churning thinking, Don't do it! Get rid of it. It'll be back to haunt you sometime when your lawn is looking great again then you can dig it up,,,,,again!
Food for thought, dig them once and get rid of them for good!
A couple of questions: how much was the cost to transporting your excavator from the sales yard to your property? That is part of the cost of acquisition. My second question is why wouldn't you want to power wash the machine before working on it.? Tanks!
Waldo I don’t know if you will read this but man you sure know a lot about everything !!! You don’t find many that knows how to fabricate and mechanic, weld and rebuild just about anything!!!
What a steal! You gave her all the correct TLC right away too. A good runner.
Rebuilt in the town I used to live in, Ephrata pa!
I don’t watch tractor videos like ever but this was entertaining to see; can’t wait for part 2 mate. Good job 👍🏻
Otto is it's name ! Otto loves ROCKS ! How ever Otto needs Teeth !
@@randywatkins3306 Oh, I was championing ' Heinrich ' ! But I think 'Otto' is just fine ! Shorter too!
Bruh, its not a tractor
Approach with he tracks facing what youre digging in, not sideways. An excavators power is in the bucket when trying to move something big and heavy like rocks curl the bucket instead of pulling the arms up. Once warmed up keep the throttle at or near 100%. Give it a litle while to cool down at idle speed when youre done. Its nice to see someone admitting they dont know how to something. You learn by making mistakes too. I had no idea these things could be so cheap but theres an auction near me im going to have to check out.
Next time, take the grass off first. Use a normal old shovel and just get under the grass and take it off in sheets. Set it aside, then dig away. Once done, you fill the hole back in with dirt, then take your INTACT sheets of grass and lay it back over the area. This will save you A LOT of re-growing time.