Keep in mind I'm only showing you the basics here because of time. But the purpose of the video was to show you how you can do all of the material testing with only one small piece of wood! You might want to do a raster engrave in light, medium and dark for instance, as well as the same with photos in all the modes. You can wind up with a lot of categories on one small piece of wood!
Thanks again, Rich. As always i always get a golden nugget of information from your videos. This time I finally understood why I keep getting the 'out of bounds' warning - overscanning distance required.
This does save material but could potentially take a lot of time, especially for someone new. I guess one would have to make the choice of which is more important. Thanks for an additional way to do things.
I use the standard material test, but I also make the squares smaller and do less rows and columns. I do them side to side using very high numbers and then go down to smaller numbers to get the fine tuned powers and such. I tend to use the base numbers either you or Dimitri has setup as a starting point sometimes. I have a roly lasermatic MK2 20w coming hopefully this week too.
I got a Sculpfun s6 pro for a birthday gift. I'm having fun. Was wondering if you have a library for this model? Thanks so very much.😀 I love your videos they have helped me so much. I looked at it and thought, "Oh my God", where so I start...lol I watched several videos before I even set it up. Which has help so much. Your videos have made it so much easier, than some of the others. Thank you again for making these. I would recommend these for any new user.
This makes a lot of sense and saves material as you pointed out. Great instruction Rich ! I have had my Lasermatic 10 for just about 2 months and have to say I'm glad I started with this laser. Leo has been great to work with. I'm upgrading my cabling this weekend and will probably add the 20 watt module to my machine when Leo has some available again. I don't know if the rotary chuck is going to be an option for the legacy machines at some point, but that would be nice, I would defiantly add that as well, although I have had great success with the existing rotary with glass ware.... Thanks for the video Rich, take care and cheers from Mark in Moab Utah ! ;-)
I'm so glad I stumbled across your videos, as they've been a huge help in my journey to learn to use Lightburn and my Elegoo Phecda 20w laser. I was wondering if there's an update on the release of the LaserMATIC 20w material library into the wild?
I love your videos thats why I am a patreon. I have a Genmitsu L8 20 watt Laser. I am having trouble with material test in lightburn. It does nothing when running material test. Can you help?
Hi Rich Very informative as usual, One Query though, you mentioned Vinyl towards the end, I thought it was unsafe to cut vinyl with a laser, because of the chlorine gas fumes, and smoke that will kill electronics, even if you are safely away from the fumes? TIA for any clarification.
Thanks Rich. How do I create a proof for customers for engraved tumblers without wasting tumbler/material. I am using lightburn and want to create a sample picture of engraved tumbler with their custom text/design in it, I do not want to waste material but would want to create something in lightburn and share with customers for approval.
Question? say you’re got something that works well at 5000/60. Why would you not try faster like 7500/100? I notice in the library you don’t always go for 100% power. Also with the square box to replace the eye image could you just disable that layer and use a different layer for next test? I’m always interested in reasons why someone chooses one thing over another. There is always a reason TIA
Yes Dave, different speeds get different results, I chose the best speed and power from a power grid. If I disabled the photo, I wouldn't be able to run it again in a different spot.
Rich Could you help me please, how I can find or make a library for fiber lasers, I have the Laserpecker 4 and the Laserpecker lx1 and I don't know how to make the library in lightburn, I am wasting a lot of material, as always I await your response and I thank you greatly.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well, I guess I’ll start using Air too. I was under the understanding that you shouldn’t. Never did really experiment to see any different outcome. Yes I’m brand new with this. Lol.
Awesome! Like I said, take a brush to it when it's done. It's important that you *don't touch* the soot or debris! If you do, the oil from your skin will cause it to stain! So hands off until you brush it! Go with the grain, and brush it well!
I see you always taking about multiple passes. Does this really help with reducing the amount of char? On a 30w say I do 2 passes at 500mm/min at 40% vice 200mm/min at 70%? I’m selling some products but can’t find the happy medium.
Hi Rich. With the LM 20, can you hit pause during a 10W engraving, move the switch to 20W and then continue, or is it necessary to home the laser before switching power? Thanks
I watched the video again and the focus was raised. (17:30 time stamp). My bad for not picking up on that at first view. I want to also say thank you for all you contribute @@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
Libraries are stored on your computer, independent of Lightburn, so they don't just go away. All you have to do is hit the Load button on either the Art Library, or Library Tab, and browse to where ever you saved them originally on your computer Kathy.
Keep in mind I'm only showing you the basics here because of time. But the purpose of the video was to show you how you can do all of the material testing with only one small piece of wood! You might want to do a raster engrave in light, medium and dark for instance, as well as the same with photos in all the modes. You can wind up with a lot of categories on one small piece of wood!
thanks Rich! I hate wasting material. This is great
You're welcome! 👍
Thanks again, Rich. As always i always get a golden nugget of information from your videos. This time I finally understood why I keep getting the 'out of bounds' warning - overscanning distance required.
Excellent! Glad to hear it!
Wow Thank You Rich! Always learn something new when I watch your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
This does save material but could potentially take a lot of time, especially for someone new. I guess one would have to make the choice of which is more important. Thanks for an additional way to do things.
It saves a lot of time in the long run.
You are my lightburn guru....very informative.Thankyou
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching Darren!
Hi Rich. As always, you read my mind and do a video of something that concern me a lot, thank you.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks Rich
Thanks so much Terry!
I use the standard material test, but I also make the squares smaller and do less rows and columns. I do them side to side using very high numbers and then go down to smaller numbers to get the fine tuned powers and such. I tend to use the base numbers either you or Dimitri has setup as a starting point sometimes.
I have a roly lasermatic MK2 20w coming hopefully this week too.
Congrats on the Mark2! This method is much faster and wastes less material.
As usual, very informing. like changing previous work to t1 or t2
Thanks Jim!
Thanks. Very helpful video. I will have to create a library myself.
Go for it!
Great video. My 20/10 module upgrade is suppose to arrive today.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Outstanding information. I was a week short on this method but will us it now. 👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent!
I got a Sculpfun s6 pro for a birthday gift. I'm having fun. Was wondering if you have a library for this model? Thanks so very much.😀
I love your videos they have helped me so much. I looked at it and thought, "Oh my God", where so I start...lol I watched several videos before I even set it up. Which has help so much. Your videos have made it so much
easier, than some of the others.
Thank you again for making these. I would recommend these for any new user.
Yes on my free forums in the members only downloads. lahobbyguy.com/bb
This makes a lot of sense and saves material as you pointed out. Great instruction Rich ! I have had my Lasermatic 10 for just about 2 months and have to say I'm glad I started with this laser. Leo has been great to work with. I'm upgrading my cabling this weekend and will probably add the 20 watt module to my machine when Leo has some available again. I don't know if the rotary chuck is going to be an option for the legacy machines at some point, but that would be nice, I would defiantly add that as well, although I have had great success with the existing rotary with glass ware.... Thanks for the video Rich, take care and cheers from Mark in Moab Utah ! ;-)
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching! I believe the chuck roller is compatible with the 10W Mk1. Check with Leo...
I'm so glad I stumbled across your videos, as they've been a huge help in my journey to learn to use Lightburn and my Elegoo Phecda 20w laser. I was wondering if there's an update on the release of the LaserMATIC 20w material library into the wild?
Not yet, but there will be a 10/20/30W combo library in my store by the end of Dec.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for letting me know and all of the superb information you put out into the world!
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! ESSENTIAL INFO!
Glad it was helpful!
Can you please make a library for a 33w diode laser? I can't find one anywhere and would love to purchase from you.
I don't have one, so I cant. There's a 24-48 combo library on my forum.
Thanks!
You bet Steve! Thanks so much for the support! 👍
Thanks🙏
You’re welcome 😊
I love your videos thats why I am a patreon. I have a Genmitsu L8 20 watt Laser. I am having trouble with material test in lightburn. It does nothing when running material test. Can you help?
Message me on Patreon Anthony.
Hi Rich Very informative as usual, One Query though, you mentioned Vinyl towards the end, I thought it was unsafe to cut vinyl with a laser, because of the chlorine gas fumes, and smoke that will kill electronics, even if you are safely away from the fumes? TIA for any clarification.
There is laser safe vinyl.
Thanks Rich. How do I create a proof for customers for engraved tumblers without wasting tumbler/material. I am using lightburn and want to create a sample picture of engraved tumbler with their custom text/design in it, I do not want to waste material but would want to create something in lightburn and share with customers for approval.
Click Preview, and then click on, Save Image.
Thank you Rich
Question? say you’re got something that works well at 5000/60. Why would you not try faster like 7500/100?
I notice in the library you don’t always go for 100% power.
Also with the square box to replace the eye image could you just disable that layer and use a different layer for next test? I’m always interested in reasons why someone chooses one thing over another. There is always a reason
TIA
Yes Dave, different speeds get different results, I chose the best speed and power from a power grid. If I disabled the photo, I wouldn't be able to run it again in a different spot.
Rich Could you help me please, how I can find or make a library for fiber lasers, I have the Laserpecker 4 and the Laserpecker lx1 and I don't know how to make the library in lightburn, I am wasting a lot of material, as always I await your response and I thank you greatly.
Well neither are actual fiber lasers, they are 1064nm, but I don't know where to get a library for a 2W 1064.
Thanks for all your effort and guidance for all! I was wondering, do you do all cuts at 100%? Is it a myth that doing that will wear out the laser?
Yes 100% Dawn mostly, depending on the material. Lightweight materials and leather have to be dialed way back.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks...Might be a dumb question, I assume the tab for Russian Birch is the same as Baltic Birch plywood, am I correct?
Yes, Russian is Baltic.
Question: Why did you move the focus when you engraved? Also, would you need to do that with a co2 laser? Thanks.
Cutting and engraving have different focuses on any laser.
I was under the understanding that you do not use Air assist on engraving. Am I wrong?
I use air on every job. It keeps the lens clean. Use a paintbrush to get the debris off after the job.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well, I guess I’ll start using Air too. I was under the understanding that you shouldn’t. Never did really experiment to see any different outcome. Yes I’m brand new with this. Lol.
Awesome! Like I said, take a brush to it when it's done. It's important that you *don't touch* the soot or debris! If you do, the oil from your skin will cause it to stain! So hands off until you brush it! Go with the grain, and brush it well!
Thanks!
Welcome! Thanks so much for the support!
I see you always taking about multiple passes. Does this really help with reducing the amount of char? On a 30w say I do 2 passes at 500mm/min at 40% vice 200mm/min at 70%? I’m selling some products but can’t find the happy medium.
Yes it does Nate.
Hi Rich. With the LM 20, can you hit pause during a 10W engraving, move the switch to 20W and then continue, or is it necessary to home the laser before switching power? Thanks
I don't know Steve; I'll have to give it a try!
Well down lesson.
Thank you Rob!
Rich, when you changed your focus, did you go in or out? By what amount?
I'm not sure what part of the video you're referring to Larry.
I watched the video again and the focus was raised. (17:30 time stamp). My bad for not picking up on that at first view. I want to also say thank you for all you contribute @@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
I raised the focus to engrave and used the focal tool that came with the laser. After an initial ramp test, this tool is spot on.
I had set up my library not long after getting my laser. Art library too. Then after a Lightburn update- POOF! They were all gone. 😞
Libraries are stored on your computer, independent of Lightburn, so they don't just go away. All you have to do is hit the Load button on either the Art Library, or Library Tab, and browse to where ever you saved them originally on your computer Kathy.
Why don’t you use the built in camera to show you where you’ve already cut?
Because I rarely use the camera, and this way is just as fast if I'm not doing a video. The video was meant to teach folks without a camera.