Bro I’m so glad I watch your videos and pay great attention you are great with explaining and to anyone new to this stuff it takes time to notice every detail at first because there’s so much going on but thank for this video
Nicely done! Even this green green newbie understood the why’s and how’s of the grid creation. Actually decided to hold off attempting my first test until I have a fire extinguisher sitting next to me! Hadn’t thought about that possibility.
Thanks for a great video on material testing and the other ones that I have watched The one problem that I have with "all" videos directed to laser newbies is a assumption by the presenter that the newbies know what all the settings mean. In this case, I'm talking about the "edit material settings". What are we really talking about when we talk about line interval and lines per inch. Sometimes we really need to get down to kindergarten level.
The LPI is the number of lines per inch of burn. The higher the number, the more overlap you will have. If it’s too wide, the laser will miss material between the lines.
Good info, however I was waiting on you to mention that these speeds are way above what alot of Hobby machines are capable of. Several Hundred IPM. I'm about to go do some tests with the Longmill that will only run about 200 IPM (85 mm/s) I'm using a 20 watt but I will be installing a 44w Jtech soon, I realize those speeds will be OK for cutting but probably pretty bad for engraving. "Keep on Keeping on" Fun stuff to play with here in the weekend Hobby shop. Larry R.
Most of the task built lasers today can far exceed these speeds, I currently have tested 40 diode hobby lasers. CNC machines are built for torque and generally cant. Kind of like if you put a spindle on a laser, it would fail miserably because although fast, it cant handle the torque. I have both CNC and lasers. CNC machines just can't move as fast as even the cheapest lasers on the market.
Great Video! would be nice to know what the power of your equipment is? I just started to use this with my 150w and thank you for the explanation of some of the not-obvious functions of this tool.
Merry Christmas all, i love watching your videos and regarding these test grids , i have done several on different materials and even after i have done then i end up not even use the setting according to the tests , i have followed all guilds but still never right , i have just got the Xtool D1 pro 10w any advice would be helpful please .
This was/is extremely helpful. Thank you for sharing. One question unrelated to lasering, what did you use for a camera to record this video? I noticed it was very well done, high quality. Thanx
How do you set up the size of your test material? I have a 4 inch by 4 inch tile. How do I tell lightburn to cut the grid on that size of tile? I can’t find that anywhere. Thanks.
Is there a built in setting within Lightburn to automatically create one of these power/speed test charts, or where would you suggest I start looking for such a file
Another very helpful video! I do have one question (for now). On the main screen, if you set your power from 50-100, what should you set the power to in the Material Setting tab? If you have a range of 50-100 and a Material Setting Max Power of 40, is it really burning at 20-40% power (half of the 40% max)? I hope that question makes sense.
The Monport manual says : “Laser Power Display: This displays the current power of the laser as a percent of its maximum intensity. Adjust this setting accordingly to process various material s . For most material s, an intensity between 20% and 60% i s optimal . when aligning the laser beam, you should use a setting lower than 30% for safety reasons . Remember: Running your laser tube above 70% power can significantly shorten the laser tube's lifetime (We recommend staying below 70% power to prolong the life of your laser tube)” So I can only assume there are 2 ways to run the power on this machine. (1) If you run the power knob like the manual says, you then must use 100% for all operations IN THE SOFTWARE, and thus control the % of power with the knob (and make sure it never goes above 60% or you damage your laser tube). - OR - (2) Turn the knob to 100%, and control actual % of power via the software settings. Since my Monport K40 power display shows mA, and NOT % of power, so I’m not sure how you can set “20% to 60%” power (as per the manual) by using the display gauge. Any folks out there have the actual answer as to which method is correct? Thanks
I couldn't get lightburn to work with this. Maybe its me but there would be a double image of the chart 2mm to the side. I went crazy trying to fix it che king belt tension and tightening screws on my xtool d1 pro and still got the same result of the double image on x axis. I finally gave up and tried it on xtool creator and worked perfectly so it wasn't my machine at all, just something funny in light burn. Any clue why?
Good lesson. I enjoy how you teach things, I tried to use box py and the tabs are so tight that the 3mm ply chips the top layer of the plywood off. What setting do I change to open things up? I am useing Lightburn on a Xtool D1 Pro 20w. Thanks and keep making Videos. Tim Oh I now have the kurf at .0025. When I changed it to .1 the taba all went screwy. Thanks again.
The less kerf when creating the file, the looser the fit. Also, be sure to measure your material with a caliber to be sure the material thickness is correct. Just because it says 3mm or whatever, that likely isn't going to be exact when measured.
Is the grid size (your example was limited to 40x40) based on the size of your engraved squares and the size of your laser’s work area? If you made the squares smaller could you get a larger grid, say 50x50?
At 04:00 I can tell that you engraved on the painted side but you stated that you want to see what the results look like from the front. However, when you hold up the painted glass tile to the camera it appears that you've engraved the front and are now actually showing the backside of the tile. Maybe I'm not familiar with this tile though. Which brings up my question. Is there a means to flip the material test vertically in order to more easily see the number for specific cases like this? I would think it would be useful for getting numbers for mirrors also.
So do you use a speed with variable power or a power with variable speed set of blocks that cover the range of gray scale you want to achieve? I hope that makes sense.
Unrelated but I got a new 10w and it seems to be under powered. Like NWT is only getting black at 600 SPD..where my 5w was getting black 2000*+ .. anyway I noticed S in device settings is 255..isn't it supposed to be 1000?
I have done many cut test now on different plywood and the test shows I can cut in 3 passes. When I go and try to cut my object it don't work in 3 passes and have to go to like 5 passes. Am I doing something wrong?
I upgraded my xtool d1 10w (no pro) to the 20w laser module. I've had my 10w for 11 months and all is good it's just taking too long to cut the material. Are there any changes to lightburn that I need to make for this upgrade? Also the power grids that I find seem mostly for 10w is there one for 20w or is there a schedule/formula to modify the grids from the 10w? T4IN
Great video, thank you! I do have 1 question, under "edit material settings" what are the power and speed for? What do they effect? These are about the only settings you skipped over? I've asked around and never get an answer. Thanks again
When the variable settings are speed and power, they have no affect. If you are testing lpi or passes, then the settings would take effect. The test is made to be versatile. They should probably “grey” out when not used.
@The Clack Shack Yeah it is harder than Luan. I can grab a piece of Luan and flex it at the corner this stuff does not flex. I don't feel the fibrous texture you do on with luan. It has been compressed with a alot of force with some kind of agent I am guessing on the good side. All they had in stock. Thanks for the info!.
looks like it lost my first part I engraving on multi painted layer tile. trying to created a test grid off you Video. How to i set my material area it only 4.13.
This was helpful but it had a lot of repeated descriptions also when you changed machines you explained it again. To a novice it just made it all a bit confusing. Also after such a long video it would have been nice to see the result of the 8x8 example. This is by no means a criticism but merely my observations as a user who is on You Tube constantly trying to learn the workings of the software and the machines .. Thanks though
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Bro I’m so glad I watch your videos and pay great attention you are great with explaining and to anyone new to this stuff it takes time to notice every detail at first because there’s so much going on but thank for this video
Glad it helps..
Nicely done! Even this green green newbie understood the why’s and how’s of the grid creation. Actually decided to hold off attempting my first test until I have a fire extinguisher sitting next to me! Hadn’t thought about that possibility.
A windex bottle of water should be a good first line of defense
Thank goodness for your instruction for the test. I had no ideas how to set up and the pine caught fire. Not fun, excellent instruction.
Glad to help
Very helpful. Thank you! Didn’t realize this was part of lightburn
Glad it helped
Thanks for this tutorial, really helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Extremely helpful to a newbie like me. Thank you for demystifying this..
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a great video on material testing and the other ones that I have watched The one problem that I have with "all" videos directed to laser newbies is a assumption by the presenter that the newbies know what all the settings mean. In this case, I'm talking about the "edit material settings". What are we really talking about when we talk about line interval and lines per inch. Sometimes we really need to get down to kindergarten level.
The LPI is the number of lines per inch of burn. The higher the number, the more overlap you will have. If it’s too wide, the laser will miss material between the lines.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Can’t wait to try it out! You’re awesome!
Thanks, I hope it helps..
Great video, answered a multitude of questions I had. Very well presented, have been using a diode laser have now added a C02 laser
Thanks. Good combination of tools
also thanks for your videos have helped me a lot only doing this for a couple months. And using lightburn D1 10w laser.
I hop it helps
Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it helps
Thank you so much! I am about to make my first burn, which will be some test grids! Just have to figure out where to start...lol
What wattage machine?
@@TheClackShack 20 watt diode
Being a newbie you really help me
Glad it helps
This is awesome. thanks so much for your time and effort in these videos.
Thanks..
Excellent explanation thanks so much !
Thanks for watching
Good info, however I was waiting on you to mention that these speeds are way above what alot of Hobby machines are capable of. Several Hundred IPM. I'm about to go do some tests with the Longmill that will only run about 200 IPM (85 mm/s) I'm using a 20 watt but I will be installing a 44w Jtech soon, I realize those speeds will be OK for cutting but probably pretty bad for engraving. "Keep on Keeping on" Fun stuff to play with here in the weekend Hobby shop. Larry R.
Most of the task built lasers today can far exceed these speeds, I currently have tested 40 diode hobby lasers. CNC machines are built for torque and generally cant. Kind of like if you put a spindle on a laser, it would fail miserably because although fast, it cant handle the torque. I have both CNC and lasers. CNC machines just can't move as fast as even the cheapest lasers on the market.
Great explanation! Thanks!
Thanks…
Superb video, would love you to do a video on how to read a material test .
Look at the results, the speed and power and on the sides. Pick the result you want
Another good video. Thanks
Thanks...
great video! thank you so much!!
Thanks…
Great Video! would be nice to know what the power of your equipment is? I just started to use this with my 150w and thank you for the explanation of some of the not-obvious functions of this tool.
Glad it helps
THANK YOU FOR THIS !!!!
You are very welcome
Hey I am new to lasers. Trying to dial in the settings my MK2 20/10 to cut 5mm plywood. thanks
Hot and slow… Probably around 6mm/s
Merry Christmas all, i love watching your videos and regarding these test grids , i have done several on different materials and even after i have done then i end up not even use the setting according to the tests , i have followed all guilds but still never right , i have just got the Xtool D1 pro 10w any advice would be helpful please .
Trust the testing. Tests make it best
does the monport 60w have air compressor built in or do I need to connect to air supply for air blow?
Not sure about a 60 watt. I only have a 40
Hi, I I'm new to laser engraving and find your videos really helpful, is there a list or index to them?
There is a search box if you go to all videos
This was/is extremely helpful. Thank you for sharing. One question unrelated to lasering, what did you use for a camera to record this video? I noticed it was very well done, high quality. Thanx
My Sony ZV1 I believe
Thanks a lot
Thanks
Have you ever done a video that just shows a beginner how to run the Light Burn material test?
This is pretty much that..
How do you set up the size of your test material? I have a 4 inch by 4 inch tile. How do I tell lightburn to cut the grid on that size of tile? I can’t find that anywhere. Thanks.
The size of the squares dictates the size of the test. Best to turn on the outline and set it as a cut
Hey Brother a how to on creating items in the library, would be most helpful to me atm and if you have already done the link would be awesome
I haven’t done it yet
LA Hobby Guy on TH-cam has a video on creating libraries in Lightburn - have a look
This is an older video. I have been doing it for a while now. @@daverowe5351
Is there any way you can share your material test settings for the Comgrow Z1 10watt?
I have a few documented but most are in my head. I have several 10 watt machines and the settings are close across the group.
Outstanding video, curious as to why test burns do not have Air Assist turned on?
You turn it on or off in the material settings section. You can set them either way
What about the intervals? I feel like the intervals play a lot in the testings.
It can make a difference but is not something that I would worry about on a regular engrave, Only in high resolution images.
Is there a built in setting within Lightburn to automatically create one of these power/speed test charts, or where would you suggest I start looking for such a file
Yes, the tools used in the video
Another very helpful video! I do have one question (for now). On the main screen, if you set your power from 50-100, what should you set the power to in the Material Setting tab? If you have a range of 50-100 and a Material Setting Max Power of 40, is it really burning at 20-40% power (half of the 40% max)? I hope that question makes sense.
The speed and power don't matter if those are the variables in the test. Set all the other because they will be used.
The Monport manual says :
“Laser Power Display: This displays the current power of the laser as a percent of its maximum intensity. Adjust this setting accordingly to process various material s . For most material s, an intensity between 20% and 60% i s optimal . when aligning the laser beam, you should use a setting lower than 30% for safety reasons .
Remember: Running your laser tube above 70% power can significantly shorten the laser tube's lifetime (We recommend staying below 70% power to prolong the life of your laser tube)”
So I can only assume there are 2 ways to run the power on this machine. (1) If you run the power knob like the manual says, you then must use 100% for all operations IN THE SOFTWARE, and thus control the % of power with the knob (and make sure it never goes above 60% or you damage your laser tube).
- OR -
(2) Turn the knob to 100%, and control actual % of power via the software settings.
Since my Monport K40 power display shows mA, and NOT % of power, so I’m not sure how you can set “20% to 60%” power (as per the manual) by using the display gauge.
Any folks out there have the actual answer as to which method is correct? Thanks
It is confusing. I am not sure why it wouldn’t just be limited internally.
I couldn't get lightburn to work with this. Maybe its me but there would be a double image of the chart 2mm to the side. I went crazy trying to fix it che king belt tension and tightening screws on my xtool d1 pro and still got the same result of the double image on x axis. I finally gave up and tried it on xtool creator and worked perfectly so it wasn't my machine at all, just something funny in light burn. Any clue why?
Most likely the driver and setup. Run the lightburn configuration again.
Will you share your material tests for 60W Monport?
I do not have a 60 watt monport
Good lesson. I enjoy how you teach things, I tried to use box py and the tabs are so tight that the 3mm ply chips the top layer of the plywood off. What setting do I change to open things up? I am useing Lightburn on a Xtool D1 Pro 20w. Thanks and keep making Videos. Tim Oh I now have the kurf at .0025. When I changed it to .1 the taba all went screwy. Thanks again.
The less kerf when creating the file, the looser the fit. Also, be sure to measure your material with a caliber to be sure the material thickness is correct. Just because it says 3mm or whatever, that likely isn't going to be exact when measured.
Is the grid size (your example was limited to 40x40) based on the size of your engraved squares and the size of your laser’s work area? If you made the squares smaller could you get a larger grid, say 50x50?
maybe, the 20x20s that I do take long enough
At 04:00 I can tell that you engraved on the painted side but you stated that you want to see what the results look like from the front. However, when you hold up the painted glass tile to the camera it appears that you've engraved the front and are now actually showing the backside of the tile.
Maybe I'm not familiar with this tile though.
Which brings up my question. Is there a means to flip the material test vertically in order to more easily see the number for specific cases like this? I would think it would be useful for getting numbers for mirrors also.
I do transparent materials from the back. You could save the Gcode and flip it but its not worth the hassle to me. I just work with it.
I have a new 40w diode laser and want to do a grid but have no idea where to start with the settings.
Start out high and work down if needed. About 250mm/s on engraving
This is awesome!! But how do you make it bigger?
Change the settings, you can make it have more boxes and change the size of those boxes
@@TheClackShack Thank you.. Sorry I'm a newbie. Now I wish I knew what % to start at.
So do you use a speed with variable power or a power with variable speed set of blocks that cover the range of gray scale you want to achieve? I hope that makes sense.
Both speed and power vary
Unrelated but I got a new 10w and it seems to be under powered. Like NWT is only getting black at 600 SPD..where my 5w was getting black 2000*+ .. anyway I noticed S in device settings is 255..isn't it supposed to be 1000?
Yes, change that value. Your machine is running at 1/4 power.
@@TheClackShack thank you so much..I was so frustrated..wasn't even cutting 3mm ply
I have done many cut test now on different plywood and the test shows I can cut in 3 passes. When I go and try to cut my object it don't work in 3 passes and have to go to like 5 passes. Am I doing something wrong?
Check focus and lens cleanliness. Those two factors can cause degradation in cutting ability.
% power to 40 power speed 1200 to 1300....If you can think of anytime I would loce your advice.
thanks in advance.
Not sure I understand the question. From my experience, that would be way too slow for multi layer paint.
My one question is, how do I lower my est time to complete the material test, everything I do has my test over an hour, is that normal?
Depending on the number of boxes and speeds, it could be. Some take a while
I have LightBurn1.3.01 and am limited to 11 rows and 11 columns. Any idea why that might be since I see you going well above those limits.
Thanks
I haven’t updated in a while. It may be that my version is older.
I'm doing a material test. I've input the fill feature but i can't get it to stop cutting. Why?
The MATERIAL SETTINGS needs to be set to fill.
A bit confused using mm/s or mm/m. Is there a best recommendation for one or the other? Thank you
I choose mm/s, just smaller numbers
generally, the mm/s is for CO2 lasers, where mm/m is for Diode lasers
I upgraded my xtool d1 10w (no pro) to the 20w laser module. I've had my 10w for 11 months and all is good it's just taking too long to cut the material. Are there any changes to lightburn that I need to make for this upgrade? Also the power grids that I find seem mostly for 10w is there one for 20w or is there a schedule/formula to modify the grids from the 10w? T4IN
You can check the S-value setting under device settings. Also, you may wanna check your outer lens.
Outer lens?
@@TheClackShack when you say outer lens, is something wrong or I should know something about the lens?
@@mikeledee8786 it gets dirty
Great video, thank you!
I do have 1 question, under "edit material settings" what are the power and speed for? What do they effect? These are about the only settings you skipped over? I've asked around and never get an answer.
Thanks again
When the variable settings are speed and power, they have no affect. If you are testing lpi or passes, then the settings would take effect. The test is made to be versatile. They should probably “grey” out when not used.
@@TheClackShack thank you. Clears this up for me!!!
I have the s30 pro will these settings be ok with my lightburn?
I recommend a speed test, all machines vary. It might be a good place to start
I am having to cut 5mm underlayment at 150mm/min 100% on Atezr p20 Is that close to what yours is running?
That is slower than I run. The wood could be harder but I would check the S-value setting. I run 7mm/s or 420 mm/m
@The Clack Shack Yeah it is harder than Luan. I can grab a piece of Luan and flex it at the corner this stuff does not flex. I don't feel the fibrous texture you do on with luan. It has been compressed with a alot of force with some kind of agent I am guessing on the good side. All they had in stock. Thanks for the info!.
Can you send a link to the pattern please sir,
thank you in advance!!
`
The power grid is in lightburn
looks like it lost my first part I engraving on multi painted layer tile. trying to created a test grid off you Video. How to i set my material area it only 4.13.
set the software to current position then do the grid. center the laser on the tile and use frame to get it to fit.
sorry thats the xtool 102 Laser D1
ok
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
Thanks
This was helpful but it had a lot of repeated descriptions also when you changed machines you explained it again. To a novice it just made it all a bit confusing. Also after such a long video it would have been nice to see the result of the 8x8 example. This is by no means a criticism but merely my observations as a user who is on You Tube constantly trying to learn the workings of the software and the machines .. Thanks though
From a novice TH-camr, I am working on that... Good luck.. The newer videos are better..
sorry my computer has a mind of it own its the xtool d1
I understand