It is not so obvious which side is out on the oil seal. If there is any writing on the seal that should be out. Ive inverted it before and was not able to get the C clip in place as a result. Also, a little heat around the fork sleeve will aid the lower bushing to seat easier.
Awesome videos man you have made my life so easy when it comes to rebuilding my 2005 ktm 125sx I love your content and tips and tricks!!!! I've watched all your build videos. One question my bike has "white power upside down 48 ma forks" are they the same as the ones you rebuild on your bike?
Hi Daniel, your video is the closest type of KTM forks I can find on TH-cam. I'm busy with fork seal replacement on a Superduke 990 (WP4860). The springs inside these are much shorter and stiffer so I'll have to find a way to compress them to turn off the nuts underneath. Please could you tell me what those bleeders are for that you installed at the end? Any help will be appreciatted, thank you! Jason
Hey Jason, those bleeders are for the air build up as the fork gets warm from riding. It keeps us from having the loosen the flathead screw with a tool. They are motion pro!
@@DanMX2112Ok the forks are back together with new seals and oil. The manual recommends compression and rebound adjusters at 15 clicks each for basic settings...is that clicking in or out?
Hello I'm your follower from Indonesia, I'd like to ask how much oil measure lowring 5 cm wp and how much oil does not use lowring. I hope you can help me. thank you very much.
Are there forks that do not have that spacer bushing? I have a 2011 Xcw 300 and when I opened the forks this weekend, to my surprise there was no spacer bushing (the long 6in tube spacer). ??
Not sure about that, but check the fork breakdown on Rocky Mountains be site and see if it exists. I know the forks changed over the years, but I’m not sure specifically on that. Thanks for watching also, and appreciate the comments!
I have 48mm open chamber that also don't have that tube from a 2005 250 exc. They are similar. The inner cartridge tube is a bit different too, as is the cap design
@@johnharding2912 I don't have the 2011 anymore. Jumped onto a 2022. Just had it fixed with race tech gold valving and nitrogen bladder. 👍 Regardless, Thanks for the answer .
@@crazybalony no worries, might be handy for someone. Im in the middle of rebuilding mine atm and going full depth into the cartridges innards. Quite a bit more difficult but doable with patients. Mine were not looked after but some spit, polish and new o-rings gets you a long way. I bet that 22 is nice, fair play
Hey man I hope you still answer to these comments but I dont have that seal driver thing 16:01 and I wondered if there’s any other tool that can be used to do the same thing that the driver does?
You can go to the hardware store and get pvc pipe that is near that size and I’m use it, I’ve done that before, but otherwise you should be using a seal driver. I’ve used the old seal in the past also but wouldn’t recommend it. Sometimes the right tool for the job is really the only tool you can use.
@@DanMX2112 yeah it'll get you out of a jam. I'm selling my bike so didn't want to pay €90 for a driver I'd only use once 😅 keep up the good work I'll subscribe 🤙
I've used PVC on my Ninja 650R but purchased the actual driver for my KTM recently. The PVC works but it's janky and I can see how it could damage the seal while seating it.
Can I loosen or remove the lower nut valve while in the triple clamp? Trying to accomplish 2things partial drain and it’s tough to loosen that nut valve one my bench with no vise or help
The triple clamps won’t keep the forks from spinning on the inner tubes. You can use the axle through the fork lug and use the ground to leverage and break it loose with you ratchet.
Thanks. I accidentally broke my air adjustment screw and wondering if it can be replaced opening that cap and trying to remove half of the screw from the center of the thread.. Already tried from upside without results😢
I wish I could help but I’m not sure how, haven’t dealt with that issue before. You will have to remove the cap and disassemble that whole thing to fix it, just not sure what it takes.
je vais faire les miens cette semaine , tu met d'une grande aide!!
Simple and straight forward, nice video.
Thank you, and glad you enjoyed it!
Nice one. Thanks
Thank you!
It is not so obvious which side is out on the oil seal. If there is any writing on the seal that should be out. Ive inverted it before and was not able to get the C clip in place as a result. Also, a little heat around the fork sleeve will aid the lower bushing to seat easier.
The flat edge of the seal is out, toward the bottom of fork lugs. The spring should be sitting up inside the oil.
Awesome videos man you have made my life so easy when it comes to rebuilding my 2005 ktm 125sx I love your content and tips and tricks!!!! I've watched all your build videos. One question my bike has "white power upside down 48 ma forks" are they the same as the ones you rebuild on your bike?
Hi Daniel, your video is the closest type of KTM forks I can find on TH-cam. I'm busy with fork seal replacement on a Superduke 990 (WP4860). The springs inside these are much shorter and stiffer so I'll have to find a way to compress them to turn off the nuts underneath. Please could you tell me what those bleeders are for that you installed at the end? Any help will be appreciatted, thank you!
Jason
Hey Jason, those bleeders are for the air build up as the fork gets warm from riding. It keeps us from having the loosen the flathead screw with a tool. They are motion pro!
@@DanMX2112 Thanks Dan. So if I dont have them should I release the pressure after the first ride?
@jasonludlow8057 yes, with no pressure on the forks.
@@DanMX2112Ok the forks are back together with new seals and oil. The manual recommends compression and rebound adjusters at 15 clicks each for basic settings...is that clicking in or out?
@jasonludlow8057 run the clickers all the way in, and back out 15.
🔝
Hello I'm your follower from Indonesia, I'd like to ask how much oil measure lowring 5 cm wp and how much oil does not use lowring. I hope you can help me. thank you very much.
I don’t have an oil measurement, the manual calls for a height in the chamber, so not sure. Sorry about that.
Are there forks that do not have that spacer bushing? I have a 2011 Xcw 300 and when I opened the forks this weekend, to my surprise there was no spacer bushing (the long 6in tube spacer). ??
Not sure about that, but check the fork breakdown on Rocky Mountains be site and see if it exists. I know the forks changed over the years, but I’m not sure specifically on that. Thanks for watching also, and appreciate the comments!
I have 48mm open chamber that also don't have that tube from a 2005 250 exc. They are similar. The inner cartridge tube is a bit different too, as is the cap design
@@johnharding2912 I don't have the 2011 anymore. Jumped onto a 2022. Just had it fixed with race tech gold valving and nitrogen bladder. 👍 Regardless, Thanks for the answer .
@@crazybalony no worries, might be handy for someone. Im in the middle of rebuilding mine atm and going full depth into the cartridges innards. Quite a bit more difficult but doable with patients. Mine were not looked after but some spit, polish and new o-rings gets you a long way. I bet that 22 is nice, fair play
Hey man I hope you still answer to these comments but I dont have that seal driver thing 16:01 and I wondered if there’s any other tool that can be used to do the same thing that the driver does?
You can go to the hardware store and get pvc pipe that is near that size and I’m use it, I’ve done that before, but otherwise you should be using a seal driver. I’ve used the old seal in the past also but wouldn’t recommend it. Sometimes the right tool for the job is really the only tool you can use.
I know it's months to late but you can use electrical tape. Wrap it around the fork until it because thick it worked a charm for me
@A.D953 I have done this and had good luck. Valid option if a seal bullet is not attainable, also a ziploc works great too! Thanks for watching!
@@DanMX2112 yeah it'll get you out of a jam. I'm selling my bike so didn't want to pay €90 for a driver I'd only use once 😅 keep up the good work I'll subscribe 🤙
I've used PVC on my Ninja 650R but purchased the actual driver for my KTM recently. The PVC works but it's janky and I can see how it could damage the seal while seating it.
hallo bos is fork wp 48mm from 950ktm supermoto 2006 ???
No, from a 2004 KTM 125sx
@@DanMX2112 have you part number bos?
Can I loosen or remove the lower nut valve while in the triple clamp? Trying to accomplish 2things partial drain and it’s tough to loosen that nut valve one my bench with no vise or help
The triple clamps won’t keep the forks from spinning on the inner tubes. You can use the axle through the fork lug and use the ground to leverage and break it loose with you ratchet.
What is specific name for this tool (6:00)?
Fork Cap tool. It’s listed down in the description.
Thanks. I accidentally broke my air adjustment screw and wondering if it can be replaced opening that cap and trying to remove half of the screw from the center of the thread.. Already tried from upside without results😢
@@topikettunen7518 the bleeder screw is tiny, not sure how I would get it out, drill and extract, but inside the forks won’t help unfortunately.
@@DanMX2112 There is some ”pin” inside the bleeder. Do you know is that part of the bleeder or is it separate part?
I wish I could help but I’m not sure how, haven’t dealt with that issue before. You will have to remove the cap and disassemble that whole thing to fix it, just not sure what it takes.