Thank you Dustin for doing and sharing this video. Really well detailed explained. This is exactly the infomation i needed for answering my question: Should i go to an professional or maybe i should/can do it by myself.
Good vid as it answered all my questions regarding setting oil height and whether or not I needed to remove the 19mm bolt at the bottom of the fork (which I already had done prior to watching this) So now I will remove spring and cap then reinstall damper rod so I can bleed it out correctly. Thanks!!
I know this is old, but I have just rebuilt a set of 2004 forks and they have 3 bushings and a large spacer. I have heard to remove stiction, you have to remove a bushing and the spacer. But which bushing ? The middle one ?
Is there an o-ring that goes between the adjustment rod and the cap? My manual says there is one, but I can't tell where the little o-ring goes. Thanks.
a factory-set oil quantity should be specified. How much do You initially poor in? ("some oil" is not specific enough). I understand it is around 600-640 milliliters (21,13 ounces mentioned somewhere else). thank You for the excellent and detailed video.
On Rocky Mountain atv website linked in description, there is only one seal that fits 2003 ktm 625 sxc.?. the video shows replacing two, dust and oil seal. Do you all have the other seal available and I just missed it ?
You failed to mention the to look out for the damper needle that is on the end of the compression rod. Sometimes it will stay stuck in and other times it will be loose (easy and small enough to lose in oil or under the work bench).
I have a 2001 ktm 200 exc and i just order all the parts for you guys to rebuild my forks but i dont know how much oil i need i just order one bottle of the same thing you guys used in the video i will that much work
With electronic forks is the process different???? My 1290 SA is about due for some seals but not sure what’s inside those semi active electronic forks
3 bushings?? Now that I have your attention, every other fork I've worked on only has 2 bushings and no long spacer like this. The video glossed over pressing in the bushings. the larger inner bushing is self explanatory, however the outer bushings that lay on either side of the spacer don't seem quite right. Do I really need just drive the first one in, drive in the space and then drive in the final spacer to flat just underneath the oil seal? The Service manual glosses over this part as well, if anyone could spell this out for me it would be much appreciated!
The lower part of the fork rotates freely so you shouldn't have to worry about that. We have a video that talks about installing the front wheel and aligning it with the forks that shows this better. You can check out that video here: th-cam.com/video/6LtDZrSsu2U/w-d-xo.html
A metal screwdriver is the last tool that should be used on a fork. It can nick or scratch. These bushings are in such low tension that they can easily be removed with fingers only. If a tool is ever needed it should be a nylon pry tool, E.G. an automotive trim tool.
as always in mechanics, depends on your skillset and pysical and mental control over what youre doing and how you do it ... also you present this as an personal way of doing it e.g an "opinion" and nobody cares how you do it as long as you do it right and dont damage anything + if you manage to poke through those seals you should be repairing traintracks or something and not forks ....
Here's a link to the sales page that shows the parts we used in this video: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2217/How-To-Rebuild-Fork-Seals-On-WP-Open-Chamber-Forks Hope that helps!
@2:54 My inner fork doesn't have this lock nut. How am I supposed to release the top cap the rest of the way? My forks are from the KTM 2000 EXC fork number 0518u787
Thanks guys great video.. Even though, I still have a question. Recently I did a whole revision on the forks of my KTM sm990. But after everything was assembled the right way, the fork seems to have a flat/dead spot at the very top. I followed every step very carefully and I do not see where I did something wrong. It looks like there is still some air in the system after all. The only reason what I can think off is the point of releasing the spring back in, that with this motion some air got sucked in. Or can it be something else? So before I will dismount everything again, what will be your advice? I hope to hear from you. Cheers
Just to clarify, by flat or dead spot do you mean it feels like there is no dampening at the top of the stroke? I'm assuming it didn't have this issue before the fork rebuild? Installing the spring shouldn't create any issues with air in the system. Are you 100% sure that all the air was bled out and the damper rod had smooth consistent resistance all the way to the top? It might be worth double checking the clicker settings to make sure they are at the same settings as before. -Charles
@@rmatvmc Hi Charles, thanks for the reply! Yes exactly, when I take the bike of the side stand the bike will fall approximately 2 cm until you can feel the resistance of the spring/fork. This wasn't the case before the rebuild. I do believe the clicks are all right, since I adjusted them to stock settings. The only thing I didn't do is putting the damper rod adjuster in place before messuring the exact amount of oil. I did 10cm (so without the adjuster) but this still leaves me with a margin right? The only thing I can think of is that I made a mistake with bleeding the system since the example of the video, where you can see the "dead" spot when the damping rod is being pulled out, looks very familiar to the my bike falling down into the spring. If this makes sense.. So what is the best option to do, should I disassamble the forks, open them, take the spring out and start bleeding again? Greetings, Ilja
I had to on my 03 exc 200 even after applying heat it wouldn’t bust loose. What i want to know is can I remove or at least loosen the lower nut/valve while still attached to the triple clamp?
@@bloodyholly11 it’s helpful to have spring pressure on the assembly when you are removing the bottom bolt, otherwise the damper assembly will spin. Using an impact and a quality well fitting (6 point) socket will get things loosen and tighten things up more easily so they can be torqued. Remove components by hand and get ready to catch the oil! Removing the damper assembly is t here only way to get the rest of the old oil and any debris from spring and bushing wear
Bang Cock The wp 4860 mxma is very similar but doesn’t have the spacer tube/extra bushings. It just has 2 bushings, the one bushing that seats in the outer tube (behind the seal/ring) and the one at the top of the inner tube. Everything else in the video applies and explains things very well, I just did a set of 4860 mxma’s off my 07 KTM 200 xc-w this afternoon.
This video looks exactly like what I found inside my wp 4860 mxma forks from my 2013 ktm 690 enduro r except for the big spacer below the guide bushings and the whitish plastic spacers between the cap and spring.
Excellent walk through. Job done.
Ktm 125 exc 2011.
Took 2 hours and 600ml fork oil in each leg.
Thanks guys
Thanks *Rory Mccarthy!* Hey, you made quick work of those forks, nice work!
@@rmatvmc Any chance you guys have a video on setup of these forks? Regarding compression and rebound settings.
Thank you Dustin for doing and sharing this video. Really well detailed explained. This is exactly the infomation i needed for answering my question: Should i go to an professional or maybe i should/can do it by myself.
Love this video. I am about to do the seals and guides in my 07 525xc-w so this was great
Great video amazingly explained. Do you have any video about seal replacement for a crf450x 2008 fork model?
Good vid as it answered all my questions regarding setting oil height and whether or not I needed to remove the 19mm bolt at the bottom of the fork (which I already had done prior to watching this) So now I will remove spring and cap then reinstall damper rod so I can bleed it out correctly. Thanks!!
Wil this be the same on my 2003 640 adventure
Excellent explanation thank you.
I know this is old, but I have just rebuilt a set of 2004 forks and they have 3 bushings and a large spacer. I have heard to remove stiction, you have to remove a bushing and the spacer. But which bushing ? The middle one ?
Is there an o-ring that goes between the adjustment rod and the cap? My manual says there is one, but I can't tell where the little o-ring goes. Thanks.
Are these the same forks on a 2006 ktm 525? Really nice video! 🔥
Thanks, really helps!
Can I open the bottom while attached to the triple clamp? Easy way to drain partially maybe
well explained thanks
thnx a lot. if i found this vid earlier i wouldnt make so many mistakes. )))
a factory-set oil quantity should be specified. How much do You initially poor in? ("some oil" is not specific enough). I understand it is around 600-640 milliliters (21,13 ounces mentioned somewhere else).
thank You for the excellent and detailed video.
Robert Varga I’ve read online that it’s usually just shy of 500ml per fork, so 600ml would make sense.
You are measuring oil height from top so there is no need to know ho much he initially pour in.
Great video guys
On Rocky Mountain atv website linked in description, there is only one seal that fits 2003 ktm 625 sxc.?.
the video shows replacing two, dust and oil seal.
Do you all have the other seal available and I just missed it ?
You failed to mention the to look out for the damper needle that is on the end of the compression rod. Sometimes it will stay stuck in and other times it will be loose (easy and small enough to lose in oil or under the work bench).
how different is the 2015 1290 Super Adventure active suspension system from this one? since I need to replace those seals and bushings. Thanks
Hi how much oil i need ? For my ktm exc 525 2004 48mm fork ?
I have a 2001 ktm 200 exc and i just order all the parts for you guys to rebuild my forks but i dont know how much oil i need i just order one bottle of the same thing you guys used in the video i will that much work
2 you can always use the leftover for your oil can thingamob
With electronic forks is the process different???? My 1290 SA is about due for some seals but not sure what’s inside those semi active electronic forks
thanks..this is what i needed
Great to hear! If you run into any questions down the road let us know, happy to help. Thanks for watching!
3 bushings??
Now that I have your attention, every other fork I've worked on only has 2 bushings and no long spacer like this. The video glossed over pressing in the bushings. the larger inner bushing is self explanatory, however the outer bushings that lay on either side of the spacer don't seem quite right. Do I really need just drive the first one in, drive in the space and then drive in the final spacer to flat just underneath the oil seal? The Service manual glosses over this part as well, if anyone could spell this out for me it would be much appreciated!
No driving necessary just open the tight one slightly with a flathead like how you remove it
When you mount the forks back in the triple clamps, how do you make sure they point straight ahead and not at an angle?
The lower part of the fork rotates freely so you shouldn't have to worry about that. We have a video that talks about installing the front wheel and aligning it with the forks that shows this better. You can check out that video here: th-cam.com/video/6LtDZrSsu2U/w-d-xo.html
@@rmatvmc of course! How silly of me…
hallo bos same fronts suspession ktm950sm?
My 07 didnt have the big chunky upper piece 🤔
Is 1L off oil enough for both forks ?
Doubtful I think you need @600 ml per fork
Parabéns excelente trabalho sou do Brasil parabéns
Muito obrigado! Ficamos feliz saber que vc gosta dos videos e que te ajuda. - Chase
A metal screwdriver is the last tool that should be used on a fork. It can nick or scratch. These bushings are in such low tension that they can easily be removed with fingers only. If a tool is ever needed it should be a nylon pry tool, E.G. an automotive trim tool.
as always in mechanics, depends on your skillset and pysical and mental control over what youre doing and how you do it ... also you present this as an personal way of doing it e.g an "opinion" and nobody cares how you do it as long as you do it right and dont damage anything
+ if you manage to poke through those seals you should be repairing traintracks or something and not forks ....
I have the exact same forks, if you could tell me where you brought the seals and bushings would be a huge help thanks
Here's a link to the sales page that shows the parts we used in this video:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2217/How-To-Rebuild-Fork-Seals-On-WP-Open-Chamber-Forks
Hope that helps!
How meny oil did you use to fill the tube to the proper level. I dont know how meny oil I am suposed to by
600 mililiters for one , 1200 for both
I'm needing to get my dust seal pulled down but I'm not removing the shock how do I get it lose to pull down?
*Michael Mcmillan-* Check out the video at min 4:12. This is how we slide down the dust seal. Thanks.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC
Thanks I'll try again tomorrow I don't think I was hard enough with it I was scared I damaged anything
@2:54 My inner fork doesn't have this lock nut. How am I supposed to release the top cap the rest of the way? My forks are from the KTM 2000 EXC fork number 0518u787
Fantastc video!
Thanks guys great video..
Even though, I still have a question. Recently I did a whole revision on the forks of my KTM sm990. But after everything was assembled the right way, the fork seems to have a flat/dead spot at the very top. I followed every step very carefully and I do not see where I did something wrong.
It looks like there is still some air in the system after all. The only reason what I can think off is the point of releasing the spring back in, that with this motion some air got sucked in. Or can it be something else?
So before I will dismount everything again, what will be your advice?
I hope to hear from you.
Cheers
Just to clarify, by flat or dead spot do you mean it feels like there is no dampening at the top of the stroke? I'm assuming it didn't have this issue before the fork rebuild? Installing the spring shouldn't create any issues with air in the system. Are you 100% sure that all the air was bled out and the damper rod had smooth consistent resistance all the way to the top? It might be worth double checking the clicker settings to make sure they are at the same settings as before.
-Charles
@@rmatvmc Hi Charles, thanks for the reply!
Yes exactly, when I take the bike of the side stand the bike will fall approximately 2 cm until you can feel the resistance of the spring/fork. This wasn't the case before the rebuild.
I do believe the clicks are all right, since I adjusted them to stock settings.
The only thing I didn't do is putting the damper rod adjuster in place before messuring the exact amount of oil. I did 10cm (so without the adjuster) but this still leaves me with a margin right?
The only thing I can think of is that I made a mistake with bleeding the system since the example of the video, where you can see the "dead" spot when the damping rod is being pulled out, looks very familiar to the my bike falling down into the spring. If this makes sense..
So what is the best option to do, should I disassamble the forks, open them, take the spring out and start bleeding again?
Greetings,
Ilja
Great 'how-to', but this is the reason I leave this type of work to the experts. Too many little parts and not enough patience on my end. :-)
How much should this cost at the shop??
probably $250-400 .?..
Do you not need to undo the lower nut on the bottom of the fork?
I had to on my 03 exc 200 even after applying heat it wouldn’t bust loose. What i want to know is can I remove or at least loosen the lower nut/valve while still attached to the triple clamp?
@@bloodyholly11 it’s helpful to have spring pressure on the assembly when you are removing the bottom bolt, otherwise the damper assembly will spin. Using an impact and a quality well fitting (6 point) socket will get things loosen and tighten things up more easily so they can be torqued. Remove components by hand and get ready to catch the oil! Removing the damper assembly is t here only way to get the rest of the old oil and any debris from spring and bushing wear
Is this guide for the wp 4860 mxma as well?
Bang Cock The wp 4860 mxma is very similar but doesn’t have the spacer tube/extra bushings. It just has 2 bushings, the one bushing that seats in the outer tube (behind the seal/ring) and the one at the top of the inner tube. Everything else in the video applies and explains things very well, I just did a set of 4860 mxma’s off my 07 KTM 200 xc-w this afternoon.
This video looks exactly like what I found inside my wp 4860 mxma forks from my 2013 ktm 690 enduro r except for the big spacer below the guide bushings and the whitish plastic spacers between the cap and spring.
is it the same fork as a ktm enduro r 2012?
Yes it should be the same, but as always reference your bikes specific service manual for proper specs and capacities. Thanks.
What's that wrench called?
i have the 05 ktm sx250f and i don't know the level of oil on the forck I searched Manual but nothing
Sorry for my late response but 600 ml per 1 spring