I have 5 zones on my sprinkler system Zone 1-3-5 are working fine(45-50 lbs) Zone2 (front yard) 25LBS pressure working poorly, zone 4 back yard heads barely pop up 20lbs pressure, All worked fine before I installed a new pump motor .( Shallow well for sprinklers only) Did some edging in my front yard do not think I damaged any piping. Back yard was working fine before no yard work there. Control valve for the back is in the back. Thanks I am stumped!!!
Sounds like a damaged pipe could be a possibility that feeds those zones thus the reason why low water pressure. Long the distance, less pressure. I would try capping the heads to add more pressure to where potential break might be. Look for a bubble in the grass or flooding if not in grass area. This should help you pinpoint the break if there is one.
I made the mistake of turning the solenoid too far counterclockwise and it came off the valve, and blew water out. I tried to screw it back under full water pressure, but failed. After shutting off the water at the street, I found that I had cut the oring. I replaced it with an automotive AC oring I had in my toolbox and it sealed right up. Remember, only 1/4 turn opens and closes the valve for manual use!
My drip system is 10 plus years old. The water flow is very slow. Do the valves need new diaphragms or other replaceable parts occasionally. Is there a kit u can buy?
We have been using our sprinkler valves manually for years, normally I do it by using the bleed valve, but sometimes my wife does and lost in translation she turned something else and now the valve will not let any water out, any ideas on what happened?
Now a small leak at base of solenoid when any zone is on... after putting on a new solenoid snug. The old one was dead for the zone. But i dont know if the diaphram of valve could also be bad. I put the solenoid in tight.
Make sure the rubber o-ring that goes on the tip of the solenoid is on before screwing into valve. Also that the valve port is completely cleaned of any debris or granulars of dirt
Thanks for the follow up. I used a flathead and gave it one more good turn. That seemed to do it for the leak. All is working but strangely the solenoid doesnt test manually with counter clockwise turn or bleed screw but it works with controller as i need it do.
I have the same model but I needed to know how to bleed it out hoping the debris would leave but turning the round part in the middle does nothing and if I move the little button it just turns my sprinklers on just like the solenoid does.
I have two hunter valves that I am trying to control them by my Pentair EasyTouch 8 Automation panel. I got them to work, but NOT the way I need. When I look at my Pentair panel interface on my phone or computer, I have Valve B labeled as "Irrigate". The valves work the opposite way I need. What I mean is that when the interface turns "Irrigate ON", both valves shut off and no water flows to my drip environment. But when I turn the "Irrigate OFF" in the app, then both solenoids open and watering flows as it should. How do I fix this? Operation is backwards. I thought the hunter solenoids were old and replaced both with brand new solenoids and it didn't make a difference. I also varied the wiring connecting both red wires by "on arrow" to same connection and both red wires by off arrow. connected to power. It made no difference Off is On and On is Off. HELP
Try this first SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
Ok. Just so I understand, if I want my computer or timer to run the sprinkler valve, I need to make sure the solenoid is as far turned clockwise (tightened) as possible? Within reason haha I won’t overtorque. But it should be turned tight
@@thesprinklerchannel i tested it out with a makita 10volt battery and solenoid worked and sprinkles turned on. I checked that wires have continuity. The unit seems like its turns on, i heard a click at the solenoid, but nothing. I checked with my meter and got no reading. Probably going to replace timer
They should be left tightened snugly to the right. Then from there if wire correctly the clock controls when the solenoid is charged and opens and closes the valve. If that isn’t happening see our video about “sprinklers won’t turn off”
Sometimes I have had to turn left more than a quarter turn. But the issues is if it comes completely off it’s is difficult if impossible to screw back on while the sprinkler water is on. Be ready to shut off sprinkler water supply and then try unscrewing a little more.
I have a 4 station Hunter Pro C Timer with a 4 station manifold. I only have two stations wired. I programmed according to Hunter Instructions. However, once the timer starts only Station 1 solenoid opens. I checked the wiring, programming and swapped solenoids. Station 2 will not work with the timer. I can operate manually. Any ideas?
@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks. I only have 2 stations and I checked the wiring. I can also operate Station 2 thru Manual Mode activation, so its not the solenoid. However Station 2 will NOT activate when programmed with the same Start Tiimes and Runtiime as Station 1. I think Im going to reset the timer and start again.
I have this exact valve and I can hear water flowing through it when my system is shut off. The solenoid is turned all the way off. Any ideas on how to fix it?
After ensuring that indeed it is flowing, I would do what is called flushing the valve (no video yet on this but thanks to you there probably will be one coming up in the coming weeks). In short this is how you do it. With the main shut off turned off, you take off the top of the valve (this one has 4 screw) carefully remove the top (called the bonnet) and don't lose the spring underneath and make sure when you remove the rubber part (the diaphragm) that you notice the exact position (it has a little rubber node to it that has to go back into a specific hole when re-installing). With all of this removed you should be able to see right into the valve body. There may be little pebbles visible in the center chamber that you can grab with your finger and fish them out. Other times they are not visible but still present. Now you go back to the main shut-off ideally with a person watch the valve so they can tell you quickly when to shut it off. The goal now is to turn on the water just long enough to flush the valve or in practicality create a geyser of watch coming out of the valve body. As soon as that happens if you can see the valve from the shut off point you quickly turn it off before the area is flooded or if you can't see the valve box hopefully you have a person that can either be on a phone call and tell you immediately when it is flushed so you can quickly turn off the water. Then in reverse order put the valve back together not forgetting the correct orientation of the diaphragm and the spring and to not over-tighten the screws (hand tight should be sufficient). Then making sure the solenoid is screwed on properly (maybe check this first of all) aka seated properly with a o-ring present and ensuring the solenoid is turn all the way to the right as to be "off" then you can turn water back on slowly and see if that fixed your problem. In some cases one needs to replace the top end of the valve (all the parts you removed before flushing in order to solve the problem). Let us know if this helped / worked to solve you problem!
@@thesprinklerchannel I ended up replacing the top of the whole valve. I didn't see anything inside that kept it from shutting off. It's working good now. Thanks for the help.
@@thesprinklerchannel If I replace the selonoid how do I know what wires to match up?? No video shows how to properly rewire. On my broken or bad selonoid there are just 2 red wires. How to I splice or connect the correct ones? does it matter which wire goes to which?? Thanks
Might want to open up the valve and check the diaphragm. Also there might be corrosion on wires not allowing clock to turn it on. This video helps with opening up valve: check it out. SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
I just installed a Hunter water valve. When I turn on the station at the control board, I do not hear the water flowing at the valve and that particular station does not water my lawn. Should I turn on one or two of the small valves next to the solenoid? Thx
Try turning the solenoid 1/4 turn. That should turn it on manually. If that works then check wiring (see our other videos). Then check operation of clock (other video on our channel).
What about flow? I have an area in my yard where the flow is noticeably decreased compared to the other areas. Is there something I can do to the electrovalve that controls that area to increase the flow supply? Thanks
I would check sprinkler head filters first! If that’s not the case, it could be just poor sprinkler design depending out the pipe and heads are laid out, especially if it has always been like that. Let us know what you find out!
Hello, I have 2 underground boxes outside. One that has 3 valves and the other box has 1. What is the 1 valve for? Is it to feed the others? If I want to start the water from my phone I need to make sure all the solenoids are off and also the bleeder screws? The main water shut-off valve is in the basement. Hope I made sense. I don't want to pay someone $150 to do a 5 minute job.
@@thesprinklerchannel yes the other 3 worked with it off. If that's the case, does it mean that it piggy backs onto another zone? Because I only have 3 zones. Again my main shutoff for the water is in the basement
@@FNMCaffeine no this valve does not change the pressure. In this video we talk about how to turn on the sprinkler valve manually versus at the clock. The solenoid on top of the valve is the part that controls whether the zone or station is on or off but not the pressure. They do make parts that can be added to valves to control pressure to a given valve. Hope this helps answer your questions.
Thank you for the video. I have been trying to find information about the solenoid that explained the on/ off functions. Your video was very helpful.
Great explanation God bless you
I have 5 zones on my sprinkler system Zone 1-3-5 are working fine(45-50 lbs) Zone2 (front yard) 25LBS pressure working poorly, zone 4 back yard heads barely pop up 20lbs pressure, All worked fine before I installed a new pump motor .( Shallow well for sprinklers only) Did some edging in my front yard do not think I damaged any piping. Back yard was working fine before no yard work there. Control valve for the back is in the back. Thanks I am stumped!!!
Sounds like a damaged pipe could be a possibility that feeds those zones thus the reason why low water pressure. Long the distance, less pressure. I would try capping the heads to add more pressure to where potential break might be. Look for a bubble in the grass or flooding if not in grass area. This should help you pinpoint the break if there is one.
As long as that new pump is putting out same amount and pressure of water that shouldn’t be the culprit.
Very helpful! It’s good to have a basic understanding.
Thanks for this, its way easier when blowing out the system . Nice one !
Good solenoid talk but other valves too is great to include. Thanks
Thank you for the suggestions. We will have to get some of the others recorded as well.
I made the mistake of turning the solenoid too far counterclockwise and it came off the valve, and blew water out. I tried to screw it back under full water pressure, but failed. After shutting off the water at the street, I found that I had cut the oring. I replaced it with an automotive AC oring I had in my toolbox and it sealed right up. Remember, only 1/4 turn opens and closes the valve for manual use!
Sorry to hear. Yes only 1/4 Turn. Thanks for the reminder to everyone.
I did the same thing and the metal piece is stuck to the valve
Thanks. Easily explained with our all the BS.
(Without:)
My drip system is 10 plus years old. The water flow is very slow. Do the valves need new diaphragms or other replaceable parts occasionally. Is there a kit u can buy?
Check inline filters and emitters first
great info much thanks
Very helpful; thank you.
very helpful thank you!
Thanks for the information.
We have been using our sprinkler valves manually for years, normally I do it by using the bleed valve, but sometimes my wife does and lost in translation she turned something else and now the valve will not let any water out, any ideas on what happened?
Maybe cranked down the diaphragm screw. The center one that will keep it from opening.
@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks
Thanks a lot
Now a small leak at base of solenoid when any zone is on... after putting on a new solenoid snug. The old one was dead for the zone. But i dont know if the diaphram of valve could also be bad. I put the solenoid in tight.
Make sure the rubber o-ring that goes on the tip of the solenoid is on before screwing into valve. Also that the valve port is completely cleaned of any debris or granulars of dirt
Thanks for the follow up. I used a flathead and gave it one more good turn. That seemed to do it for the leak. All is working but strangely the solenoid doesnt test manually with counter clockwise turn or bleed screw but it works with controller as i need it do.
I have the same model but I needed to know how to bleed it out hoping the debris would leave but turning the round part in the middle does nothing and if I move the little button it just turns my sprinklers on just like the solenoid does.
If you have debris, you should check out our other video about flushing the valve by removing the top/bonnet.
I have two hunter valves that I am trying to control them by my Pentair EasyTouch 8 Automation panel. I got them to work, but NOT the way I need. When I look at my Pentair panel interface on my phone or computer, I have Valve B labeled as "Irrigate". The valves work the opposite way I need. What I mean is that when the interface turns "Irrigate ON", both valves shut off and no water flows to my drip environment. But when I turn the "Irrigate OFF" in the app, then both solenoids open and watering flows as it should. How do I fix this? Operation is backwards. I thought the hunter solenoids were old and replaced both with brand new solenoids and it didn't make a difference. I also varied the wiring connecting both red wires by "on arrow" to same connection and both red wires by off arrow. connected to power. It made no difference Off is On and On is Off. HELP
Sounds like something with controller. Not familiar with that controller.
How do I replace this? One of my zones the valve is broken and sprinklers will NOT turn off.
Try this first
SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves
th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
Ok. Just so I understand, if I want my computer or timer to run the sprinkler valve, I need to make sure the solenoid is as far turned clockwise (tightened) as possible? Within reason haha I won’t overtorque. But it should be turned tight
Correct
I have hunter x-core irrigation system controller, do I need turn on the valves one by one by myself? I saw I have three valves
If wired correctly the controller should do that for you once it is all set up / programmed for when to water etc.
Do those solenoid valves go bad and cause the system not to turn on?
Solenoids can go bad, you can swap with another to test but more often it is corrosion in wire connections especially if not using silicon wire nuts.
@@thesprinklerchannel i tested it out with a makita 10volt battery and solenoid worked and sprinkles turned on. I checked that wires have continuity. The unit seems like its turns on, i heard a click at the solenoid, but nothing. I checked with my meter and got no reading. Probably going to replace timer
Do you keep them off? When system comes on are they supposed to turn? Because when I keep them on the water won’t stop coming from sprinkler system
They should be left tightened snugly to the right. Then from there if wire correctly the clock controls when the solenoid is charged and opens and closes the valve. If that isn’t happening see our video about “sprinklers won’t turn off”
@@thesprinklerchannelI will try it out thank you for your help
What if I turn the solenoid but the water does not flow through the valve and the station does not come on? Faulty valve?
Sometimes I have had to turn left more than a quarter turn. But the issues is if it comes completely off it’s is difficult if impossible to screw back on while the sprinkler water is on. Be ready to shut off sprinkler water supply and then try unscrewing a little more.
I also have this issue and I ended up turning so far the solenoid came off, but still no water flow. This is only for one of the zones too
I assume if your system has a master valve you have to turn that on first before turning on any of the other stations manually?
Correct. Should be a setting on clock that will do all of it.
I have a 4 station Hunter Pro C Timer with a 4 station manifold. I only have two stations wired. I programmed according to Hunter Instructions. However, once the timer starts only Station 1 solenoid opens. I checked the wiring, programming and swapped solenoids. Station 2 will not work with the timer. I can operate manually. Any ideas?
Everything You Need to Know About Your Sprinkler Wiring
th-cam.com/video/nujT8BFTrtk/w-d-xo.html
If it’s wired up correctly and the everything functioning properly then station 2 should come on when station 1 is done running.
@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks. I only have 2 stations and I checked the wiring. I can also operate Station 2 thru Manual Mode activation, so its not the solenoid. However Station 2 will NOT activate when programmed with the same Start Tiimes and Runtiime as Station 1. I think Im going to reset the timer and start again.
I have this exact valve and I can hear water flowing through it when my system is shut off. The solenoid is turned all the way off. Any ideas on how to fix it?
After ensuring that indeed it is flowing, I would do what is called flushing the valve (no video yet on this but thanks to you there probably will be one coming up in the coming weeks). In short this is how you do it. With the main shut off turned off, you take off the top of the valve (this one has 4 screw) carefully remove the top (called the bonnet) and don't lose the spring underneath and make sure when you remove the rubber part (the diaphragm) that you notice the exact position (it has a little rubber node to it that has to go back into a specific hole when re-installing). With all of this removed you should be able to see right into the valve body. There may be little pebbles visible in the center chamber that you can grab with your finger and fish them out. Other times they are not visible but still present. Now you go back to the main shut-off ideally with a person watch the valve so they can tell you quickly when to shut it off. The goal now is to turn on the water just long enough to flush the valve or in practicality create a geyser of watch coming out of the valve body. As soon as that happens if you can see the valve from the shut off point you quickly turn it off before the area is flooded or if you can't see the valve box hopefully you have a person that can either be on a phone call and tell you immediately when it is flushed so you can quickly turn off the water. Then in reverse order put the valve back together not forgetting the correct orientation of the diaphragm and the spring and to not over-tighten the screws (hand tight should be sufficient). Then making sure the solenoid is screwed on properly (maybe check this first of all) aka seated properly with a o-ring present and ensuring the solenoid is turn all the way to the right as to be "off" then you can turn water back on slowly and see if that fixed your problem. In some cases one needs to replace the top end of the valve (all the parts you removed before flushing in order to solve the problem). Let us know if this helped / worked to solve you problem!
@@thesprinklerchannel I ended up replacing the top of the whole valve. I didn't see anything inside that kept it from shutting off. It's working good now. Thanks for the help.
@@mikehumphry258 Can you share the link of item which you bought to replace the top? I have the same exact problem.
@@thesprinklerchannel If I replace the selonoid how do I know what wires to match up?? No video shows how to properly rewire. On my broken or bad selonoid there are just 2 red wires. How to I splice or connect the correct ones? does it matter which wire goes to which?? Thanks
thanks!
What if there is water at the valve but does not open manually or using the panel?
Might want to open up the valve and check the diaphragm. Also there might be corrosion on wires not allowing clock to turn it on. This video helps with opening up valve: check it out.
SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves
th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
I just installed a Hunter water valve. When I turn on the station at the control board, I do not hear the water flowing at the valve and that particular station does not water my lawn. Should I turn on one or two of the small valves next to the solenoid? Thx
Try turning the solenoid 1/4 turn. That should turn it on manually. If that works then check wiring (see our other videos). Then check operation of clock (other video on our channel).
What about flow? I have an area in my yard where the flow is noticeably decreased compared to the other areas. Is there something I can do to the electrovalve that controls that area to increase the flow supply? Thanks
I would check sprinkler head filters first! If that’s not the case, it could be just poor sprinkler design depending out the pipe and heads are laid out, especially if it has always been like that. Let us know what you find out!
What happens if you turn it and it still doesn’t turn on?
Sometimes it does take more than a 1/4 turn. Also make sure the middle knob isn’t turned down which manually pushes down on the diaphragm.
Hello, I have 2 underground boxes outside. One that has 3 valves and the other box has 1. What is the 1 valve for? Is it to feed the others? If I want to start the water from my phone I need to make sure all the solenoids are off and also the bleeder screws? The main water shut-off valve is in the basement. Hope I made sense. I don't want to pay someone $150 to do a 5 minute job.
The one could be for a specific zone or it could be a master valve. Does the other 3 work without the one turned on?
@@thesprinklerchannel yes the other 3 worked with it off. If that's the case, does it mean that it piggy backs onto another zone? Because I only have 3 zones. Again my main shutoff for the water is in the basement
Good video. what is the PSI for the valve?
Recommended pressure range: 20 to 150 PSI
@@thesprinklerchannel Sorry, does that particular valve lower the PSI? If so, to what? TY
@@FNMCaffeine no this valve does not change the pressure. In this video we talk about how to turn on the sprinkler valve manually versus at the clock. The solenoid on top of the valve is the part that controls whether the zone or station is on or off but not the pressure. They do make parts that can be added to valves to control pressure to a given valve. Hope this helps answer your questions.
Mine doesn't turn off.
SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves
th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
penny has dropped......I thought "on" meant arm the system...no wonder I was losing so much water...!!
Thanks for the help!