Excellent and simple tutorial. Great job and thank you. Every tutorial should be like this, straight to the point, no music, no weird humor and no unnecessary dialog. Thank you
OMG thank you so much for this video. I watched three videos before this one, and I changed the solenoid and gasket and neither one worked. The water kept flowing when turning the main water back on. After watching your video, I followed your instructions and like you said after I put everything together and turned the water back on, the water did flow still and then stabilized and turned off. Everything is fixed now and I am sure you saved me a few hundred dollars in having someone come out and fix it. Thank you so much!
If I have a water pump that turns on with a rain bird timer to pressurize the sprinklers but the water pump doesn't shut off once time is complete what could be the issue? Doing this procedure will help?
Appreciate the video, you saved me the time and money to call someone. I popped open the housing and underneath the diaphragm was a small rock. Appreciate the time you took to make this.
Your advice really helped me troubleshoot a system with which I was unfamiliar. But after flushing the lines 3 times, it seems I got all the grit and grime out, other than two surprisingly large pebbles. But with no way to get them out, I figured they wouldn’t harm the Pipes because they were wedged in place and trapped in a non-critical location. Anyway, your thorough and thoughtful advice was much appreciated. Thank you.
I just did this to a rainbird 1" valve. But instead of running water I cleaned it all with a shop vac. Lol. Shop vacs are great for drying out holes etc when doing repairs. I use and old 3 gallon Ridgid from home depot. Worked.
I was delighted to find this video because you're addressing the exact problem I'm having with my drip system. I used a 3' piece of pvc pipe as a "stethoscope" to hear water flowing more clearly inside the pipes (I have an 8 zone drip system for my ornamental garden). I easily found the problem valve. I've yet to address the repair, so I'm really happy to heed your caution about making sure no debris gets into the valve during the repair. If I'm successful, thanks to you, you've saved me a significant charge to have a repair person do the work for me. Thanks for being so clear and informative!
yay! this resolved an open sprinkler issue with a new valve and solenoid. Crazy, must have been some debris or bad assembly, but it is working correctly now. Vendors blaming someone's controller should take note that it could be their valve. 😃
spot on description wise - question is since your not actually showing while in a valve box and usually a valve box is messy - how do you properly flush a valve WITHOUT filling box w water prior to changing the diaphragm? fingers can't remove the small grit, sediment that's stopping valve from working as it was designed. thanks in advance
Great question- you have to flush it quickly as to not keep the water on more than a second or two of it geysering out of valve. That’s all that is needed, and that much water won’t flood out the box typically.
Hunter video had a few things to try, one of them was to open the manual bleed which fixed my problem (at least for now?). There was no need to disassemble the valve for me.
Thank you very much for your thorough explanation! I was able to get my sprinklers to communicate with the controller! And yes, remember to put the spring back in! 🤣🤣
Awesome and great tutorial, I don't know why they make the valve so low now all that mud went inside so I am going to wait till it dries and start over again. I'll find a pvc pipe and try it with that maybe that will work.
Big shout out to nanetteramahi2095 for such a generous donation! 🙏 Thank you sincerely for that. I’m just happy the videos are helping people all around! And happy to hear it solved your issue.
Very good tutorial however I would have like to see you do this procedure with a real valve in the ground. Will a defective solenoid cause a zone to keep running at half output when another zone is operating?
@@bookoobeans Turns out the only problem needing an adjustment was the volume screw next to the solenoid. It was wide open. Research told me to have the sprinklers running then close the volume screw just enough to see the spray getting smaller. Stop there, no more adjustment. Zone turns off when next zone activated. Now I have a clean diaphragm and all is good.
My brother your very knowledgeable , for sure , but remember you’re talking to people that aren’t , so slow it down a bit , explain tech terms etc . but thank you for what u do , I really appreciate it , cause I know it takes time
I've been having the worst luck with rainbird anti siphon valves. They keep staying on. No amount of flushing or part replacement fixes it, including diaphragm replacement or new solenoid. Even my 1 year old rain bird anti siphon valve is staying open. I replaced it last year for the same problem. Honestly not sure what to do other than just call it quits and rebuild the system with better valves.
Sorry to hear. I haven’t done much with the anti siphon ones probably because in Utah we have backflow preventers at the start of the system if needed. I would just make sure that it isn’t getting voltage which is unlikely. You might be able to get the vendor to warranty this. I will research this a little more myself since this is the first time hearing this about the anti siphon ones. Maybe anybody else on here can chime in if you have a similar experience.
I replaced the entire valve due to it not shutting off. It still won't shut off if the irrigation is on . Sometimes it will stay off but then it starts again in the middle of the night . I e disconnected all electrical to rule out the electric issue
Did you do the flushing procedure thoroughly? Perhaps even a few times. Most of the time it’s a small piece of debris stuck in the incoming pipe keeping the diaphragm open when water is on.
I would check to make sure o ring on the solenoid is not damaged and that the valve is not leaking or having other issues. The internal parts of the valve could also be damaged (diaphragm). Just make sure you are flushing the correct valve and for long enough and that the rock or debris is not getting stuck in the valve when doing so (not typical to get stuck) but I would just make sure it gets flushed really well and that it is the correct valve.
Ive got 2 valves acting up 3 valves and 3 zones in total . The other day zone 2 did not shut off meanwhile zone 1-3 ran and shut off correctly. I closed zone 2 at the valve due to over watering. Come next cycle zone 1 isnt turning off until zone 3 is done? I appreciate the helpful info! Ps. i did lower the flow at each valve because there was too much pressure at the heads imo. could turning the flow too low possibly causing these issues?
Thoroughly appreciate that for me I just don't have the time to do that I'm going to those things don't cost that much money I just going to replace them
Hello, How do you manually close a rain bird control valve? It stays open and I can not figure out how to manually close it. I have tried the bleed screw method, the flow control method, and the turning the solenoid method. I have tried 3 different control valves brand new (out of the box). I can not figure what is causing the control valve to stay open where I can not manually close it.k Thank you for your help.
So how do you find the valve box when it is underground somewhere? Anything to look for that might indicate where it is buried? We have 32 zones over 3 acres, will they all be in the same box?
All the wire tracers I see have a red and black lead that must be connected to wires, so where do I connect the leads or can you recommend one that does not require these leads?@@thesprinklerchannel
Do you have to have the sprinklers on and running when checking the solenoid and if they are on a timer - only one zone will be running at a time - so guess I am a little confused on how to check this. I have 6 stations and station #6 is always on when other stations are running - but I don't know which valve controls #6.
Typically you can hear or feel water running through the pipes. You can also manually turn on the others and see which one doesn’t turn on another zone thus reducing pressure to heads. Pressure stays the same at heads, then that’s the valve that is staying on. Hope this helps!
@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks for the response - so in my case when the timer turns on any station, the #6 station always comes on also. Does that sound like a valve or controller problem ?
Need help. My system works turning on/off manually twisting the solenoid. The issue I have is that the system will turn on automatically but won’t shut off unless I close the main water supply. It’s not a programming issue, I have 1 zone, hunter node. What’s the issue? Thanks!
Check the start times, I have a video on that on my channel. Most common mistake I have found. There should be a total of on start time and any others should be to the off setting
If all wires from the solenoid are detached, so that there is no power. Will the valve be open or closed? Do I have to reconnect the solenoid wires to close the valve?
As long as the solenoids are installed properly and turned to the right until snug it will keep the zone off. If you want to open valve manually then you loosen / turn left 1/4 turn (sometimes it takes more).
I have a small question please One (of two) station is driving me nuts. I changed out both solenoids and one side works fine. The other works only if I unscrew the bleed screw out to the point it leaks. When I screw it back in everything stops. I changed the diaphragm more than once and it works manually if I unscrew the solenoid but when I screw it back in the only time it works properly is when the bleed screw is leaking. I changed the bleed screw and the same thing happens. When I do unscrew it I hear the water rushing in. Am I missing something?...Thanks
@@thesprinklerchannel I have a basic Hunter valve and The Node 200 for controller. Six screw cover. Brand new DC latching solenoid and new diaphragm. Inside is clean. No dirt or obstructions. Two valves for two zones. One works fine. The other not so much. Open the solenoid and it runs great. close the solenoid and open the bleed screw and it runs great. If I close the bleed screw to where the water doesn't leak, it stops. I hear the solenoid open when I do the manual timer. Not sure where the problem is.
@@thesprinklerchannel Well I think I solved my problem. I hope. I went back to basics and looked at the wiring and just for the heck of it I cut back the ground wire and stripped it, then attached the connector. I worked. I think there might have been a break in the wire near the end which caused it to work and then not to work. It was so intermittent that I couldn't tell it wasn't functioning properly. I went to the timer and manually ran it a couple of times and it worked fine. I think I got lucky. Thanks for the response.
Check the o ring that goes on the solenoid. After that make sure all the parts are installed as they previously were and that all the bolts are snug tight. Try and see if you can’t isolate where the water starts to leak out from.
@@thesprinklerchannel like I said, I changed everything out about two months ago and it’s been working fine and all of a sudden it’s doing it again. But the only thing I didn’t change was a solenoid. Thank you for your response.
It shuts off by itself when I use the manual run on the display, but won't shut off when I run it on auto. Would this still apply? Also it only keeps the last zone running, I even switched zones to run last and the last one always stays on.
Quick question... My Rainbird valve won't shut off. I disassembled it and it was very clean, but it seems like the body of the valve is getting beat up by the underside of the yellow filter when the diaphragm closes. Is this normal? Wish I could attach a picture to help explain...
Hmmm, not familiar with the yellow filter you are referring to. Maybe a link to a site with similar set up you could leave me here to see what you are referring to.
@@thesprinklerchannel Good evening. My prior responses today don't seem to have been posted? Maybe because of the link(s) I was tryin to post? Nonetheless, the filter I was speaking about is the pilot flow filter, and the part that's a little beat up is the valve seat. I rebuilt the diaphragm (and back-flushed) and that didn't help, replaced the solenoid and that seemed to work, once... but when I ran the Rainbird SST 600in Timer for Zone 1, and toggled down the minutes to only run for 1 minute, the sprinkler valve didn't close after several minutes passed, and when I rotated the dial to off, it still didn't close. Prior to installing the Solenoid I checked the voltage at the wiring in the valve box and it was about 22V with the zone "on". I didn't think to check the voltage when the zone was "off... 😞 After the failure I removed the common and the "zone" wire at the controller and did an ohm test on the wires and got continuity. Should there be continuity if the valve should be off? Maybe the controller has a fault? Thanks, David
Thanks for the Video. Have a Hunter Sprinkler system with an Orbit B-Hyve controller. Everything was working fine till a few weeks. I was watering manually using the Orbit app and we had a week of sporadic rain in Toronto so didnt need to water. This weekend tried to water and there was no water in any zone using the app. Deleted and reinstalled the app. Checked the voltage and Ohm at the controller end. Also tested each solenoid and had a steady reading. Even replaced the controller. I can turn on the water for each zone by turning on the solenoid using quarter turn but other than that I cant get the controller to water. Not sure where the fault is. Appreciate help
@@thesprinklerchannel Interconnection is available and working as also the app has beereinstalled. I can manually turn on the valve using a screwdriver quarter turn but the app itself And the controller will not manually water
Watch this video along with its sequel / part two (both found in videos of TH-cam channel). Sprinkler Clock Programming Made Easy th-cam.com/video/zLL-njHdm8Y/w-d-xo.html You probably have some start times possibly under different programs.
@@thesprinklerchannel the panel. I even set the zones to 0 minutes and the whole system to off, but it's still turning on and going through the zones as if they were set to run
Did you flush the entire system thoroughly? Need to also make sure you are flushing the right valve. Replacing parts won’t fix if some tiny pebble or debris still in line.
I have 2 zones that have poor pressure. When I open them manually with the bleeder they still have low pressure. I dont believe that it's a root pinching the line as I dont hear any pinches anywhere in my yard. I also dont see any major leaks. Thoughts of what may be causing this??
Interesting. Did both zones become low pressure at same time? First thoughts would be making sure there aren’t two start times or multiple programs running same time, if two zones try to run same time that will be the result (low pressure). If it’s always been the case it could be too many heads on the zone / too much water outflow for given pressure.
Go into each program and check start times. Use only one start time on one program. Check out our sprinkler clock videos. Let us know if this worked for ya.
Hey man, good video, but what advice can you offer in my situation. My rain bird controller has an auto and off switch and it days hours you can program zones etc. Once it reaches zone 10 its supposed to go into a "rest" mode and shut off the pump but the pump just runs and runs and won't shut off until I turn it off at the breaker. Any suggestions?
Excellent and simple tutorial. Great job and thank you. Every tutorial should be like this, straight to the point, no music, no weird humor and no unnecessary dialog. Thank you
OMG thank you so much for this video. I watched three videos before this one, and I changed the solenoid and gasket and neither one worked. The water kept flowing when turning the main water back on. After watching your video, I followed your instructions and like you said after I put everything together and turned the water back on, the water did flow still and then stabilized and turned off. Everything is fixed now and I am sure you saved me a few hundred dollars in having someone come out and fix it. Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing your success story RingMast3r. Great to hear that it helped!
If I have a water pump that turns on with a rain bird timer to pressurize the sprinklers but the water pump doesn't shut off once time is complete what could be the issue? Doing this procedure will help?
@@israelsantos4059same issue
Appreciate the video, you saved me the time and money to call someone. I popped open the housing and underneath the diaphragm was a small rock. Appreciate the time you took to make this.
Awesome!
Found some pebbles in the control valve as a result of the city installing a meter on my secondary water line. Thanks for this -- all is well again!
Your advice really helped me troubleshoot a system with which I was unfamiliar. But after flushing the lines 3 times, it seems I got all the grit and grime out, other than two surprisingly large pebbles. But with no way to get them out, I figured they wouldn’t harm the Pipes because they were wedged in place and trapped in a non-critical location. Anyway, your thorough and thoughtful advice was much appreciated. Thank you.
Use a shopvac, I’ve seen small pebbles keep valves stuck open. Glad this helped!
I just did this to a rainbird 1" valve. But instead of running water I cleaned it all with a shop vac. Lol. Shop vacs are great for drying out holes etc when doing repairs. I use and old 3 gallon Ridgid from home depot. Worked.
Great tip!
You saved me a huge repair bill. Thank you so much for making this video.
Thank you mluigic! So happy to hear the video helped!
I was delighted to find this video because you're addressing the exact problem I'm having with my drip system. I used a 3' piece of pvc pipe as a "stethoscope" to hear water flowing more clearly inside the pipes (I have an 8 zone drip system for my ornamental garden). I easily found the problem valve. I've yet to address the repair, so I'm really happy to heed your caution about making sure no debris gets into the valve during the repair. If I'm successful, thanks to you, you've saved me a significant charge to have a repair person do the work for me. Thanks for being so clear and informative!
How were you able to fix it bc I have the same issue with my drip system?
Straight and to the point. Very easy to understand. Thank you
You just made my day with your easy tutorial. Thank you
Great video; very thorough tutorial. Learned more from this than any other.
yay! this resolved an open sprinkler issue with a new valve and solenoid. Crazy, must have been some debris or bad assembly, but it is working correctly now. Vendors blaming someone's controller should take note that it could be their valve. 😃
spot on description wise - question is since your not actually showing while in a valve box and usually a valve box is messy - how do you properly flush a valve WITHOUT filling box w water prior to changing the diaphragm? fingers can't remove the small grit, sediment that's stopping valve from working as it was designed. thanks in advance
Great question- you have to flush it quickly as to not keep the water on more than a second or two of it geysering out of valve. That’s all that is needed, and that much water won’t flood out the box typically.
Hunter video had a few things to try, one of them was to open the manual bleed which fixed my problem (at least for now?). There was no need to disassemble the valve for me.
Thank you for being straight forward and to the point!
Thank you very much for your thorough explanation! I was able to get my sprinklers to communicate with the controller! And yes, remember to put the spring back in! 🤣🤣
Awesome and great tutorial, I don't know why they make the valve so low now all that mud went inside so I am going to wait till it dries and start over again. I'll find a pvc pipe and try it with that maybe that will work.
Thank you! I just fixed mine. A big chunk of dried glue came out when I flushed it out. Working like a charm now.
Super Useful! A rusty nail came out when I flushed it out. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Fantastic! I cannot thank you enough! Kept it simple and to the point! Thanks again for taking your time and putting this out!
Thanks! Your suggestions fixed our issues
Big shout out to nanetteramahi2095 for such a generous donation! 🙏 Thank you sincerely for that. I’m just happy the videos are helping people all around! And happy to hear it solved your issue.
Good explanation/presentation!
Thank you for a great deal of detailed info on cleaning out the sprinkler valve
Exactly what I needed help with thank you sir
Easily Most cornice and comprehensive explanation of the 5 or 7 I looked at. Mr. sprinkler man, you might educated yourself out of a job today.
Very good tutorial however I would have like to see you do this procedure with a real valve in the ground. Will a defective solenoid cause a zone to keep running at half output when another zone is operating?
Yes but it would still run even when all other zones are off, or timer is off. Otherwise you might have an electrical issue.
@@bookoobeans Turns out the only problem needing an adjustment was the volume screw next to the solenoid. It was wide open. Research told me to have the sprinklers running then close the volume screw just enough to see the spray getting smaller. Stop there, no more adjustment. Zone turns off when next zone activated. Now I have a clean diaphragm and all is good.
Thank you so much!! The solenoid needed an O ring
Thanks for your help.
On to the next fix😊
My brother your very knowledgeable , for sure , but remember you’re talking to people that aren’t , so slow it down a bit , explain tech terms etc . but thank you for what u do , I really appreciate it , cause I know it takes time
Noted, thanks for the feedback!
Thanks Dude! We definitely owe you a beer!
Haha, I don’t drink so some chocolate milk will do 😆
I've been having the worst luck with rainbird anti siphon valves. They keep staying on. No amount of flushing or part replacement fixes it, including diaphragm replacement or new solenoid. Even my 1 year old rain bird anti siphon valve is staying open. I replaced it last year for the same problem. Honestly not sure what to do other than just call it quits and rebuild the system with better valves.
Sorry to hear. I haven’t done much with the anti siphon ones probably because in Utah we have backflow preventers at the start of the system if needed.
I would just make sure that it isn’t getting voltage which is unlikely. You might be able to get the vendor to warranty this.
I will research this a little more myself since this is the first time hearing this about the anti siphon ones.
Maybe anybody else on here can chime in if you have a similar experience.
Great! Easy to understand. Thx
Thank you for the excellent information
I replaced the entire valve due to it not shutting off. It still won't shut off if the irrigation is on . Sometimes it will stay off but then it starts again in the middle of the night . I e disconnected all electrical to rule out the electric issue
Did you do the flushing procedure thoroughly? Perhaps even a few times. Most of the time it’s a small piece of debris stuck in the incoming pipe keeping the diaphragm open when water is on.
Same problem here… @himus1 did you discover any fix?
Same problem here. Finally we have summer, is my system not working anymore.
Great tutorial!!
I have tried this and no luck, any other suggestions? Great video btw
I would check to make sure o ring on the solenoid is not damaged and that the valve is not leaking or having other issues. The internal parts of the valve could also be damaged (diaphragm). Just make sure you are flushing the correct valve and for long enough and that the rock or debris is not getting stuck in the valve when doing so (not typical to get stuck) but I would just make sure it gets flushed really well and that it is the correct valve.
Thanks,I had a small rock stuck in the valve,fixed now.
Ive got 2 valves acting up 3 valves and 3 zones in total . The other day zone 2 did not shut off meanwhile zone 1-3 ran and shut off correctly. I closed zone 2 at the valve due to over watering. Come next cycle zone 1 isnt turning off until zone 3 is done? I appreciate the helpful info!
Ps. i did lower the flow at each valve because there was too much pressure at the heads imo. could turning the flow too low possibly causing these issues?
Did you try thoroughly flushing all valves? Sounds like something is stuck in the manifold area.
Thank you for sharing this video!! Very helpfull!!
Good job! Thanks very much.
Thoroughly appreciate that for me I just don't have the time to do that I'm going to those things don't cost that much money I just going to replace them
About $50 starting.
Hello,
How do you manually close a rain bird control valve?
It stays open and I can not figure out how to manually close it.
I have tried the bleed screw method, the flow control method, and the turning the solenoid method. I have tried 3 different control valves brand new (out of the box).
I can not figure what is causing the control valve to stay open where I can not manually close it.k
Thank you for your help.
Oh also, they're new valves with no debris of any kind. I've flushed the line too.
Don't know what I am missing.
Please help.
Thank you.
So flushing it didn’t work? Try replacing the solenoid or it might be missing the solenoid’s o ring.
So how do you find the valve box when it is underground somewhere? Anything to look for that might indicate where it is buried? We have 32 zones over 3 acres, will they all be in the same box?
Wire tracer tool is the key. Start at the clock if possible with the zone wire you are trying to look for then trace it from there.
Thank You
All the wire tracers I see have a red and black lead that must be connected to wires, so where do I connect the leads or can you recommend one that does not require these leads?@@thesprinklerchannel
Great video, thank you!
Do you have to have the sprinklers on and running when checking the solenoid and if they are on a timer - only one zone will be running at a time - so guess I am a little confused on how to check this. I have 6 stations and station #6 is always on when other stations are running - but I don't know which valve controls #6.
Typically you can hear or feel water running through the pipes. You can also manually turn on the others and see which one doesn’t turn on another zone thus reducing pressure to heads. Pressure stays the same at heads, then that’s the valve that is staying on. Hope this helps!
@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks for the response - so in my case when the timer turns on any station, the #6 station always comes on also. Does that sound like a valve or controller problem ?
Thank you great video!
All my solenoids were tightened full and valve still open. Does that mean the valve is bad or debris inside?
SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves
th-cam.com/video/bXuc930OO7I/w-d-xo.html
See if the video I shared from my videos helps resolve your issue.
Need help. My system works turning on/off manually twisting the solenoid. The issue I have is that the system will turn on automatically but won’t shut off unless I close the main water supply. It’s not a programming issue, I have 1 zone, hunter node. What’s the issue? Thanks!
Check the start times, I have a video on that on my channel. Most common mistake I have found. There should be a total of on start time and any others should be to the off setting
And that’s NOT one per zone, just one total.
@@thesprinklerchannel Thank you for the reply, the issue was with the solenoid. All good now "fingers crossed" ;)
If all wires from the solenoid are detached, so that there is no power. Will the valve be open or closed? Do I have to reconnect the solenoid wires to close the valve?
As long as the solenoids are installed properly and turned to the right until snug it will keep the zone off. If you want to open valve manually then you loosen / turn left 1/4 turn (sometimes it takes more).
Worked like a charm!
I have a small question please
One (of two) station is driving me nuts. I changed out both solenoids and one side works fine. The other works only if I unscrew the bleed screw out to the point it leaks. When I screw it back in everything stops. I changed the diaphragm more than once and it works manually if I unscrew the solenoid but when I screw it back in the only time it works properly is when the bleed screw is leaking. I changed the bleed screw and the same thing happens. When I do unscrew it I hear the water rushing in. Am I missing something?...Thanks
Which brand and model of valve are you working with?
@@thesprinklerchannel I have a basic Hunter valve and The Node 200 for controller. Six screw cover. Brand new DC latching solenoid and new diaphragm. Inside is clean. No dirt or obstructions. Two valves for two zones. One works fine. The other not so much. Open the solenoid and it runs great. close the solenoid and open the bleed screw and it runs great. If I close the bleed screw to where the water doesn't leak, it stops. I hear the solenoid open when I do the manual timer. Not sure where the problem is.
@@thesprinklerchannel Well I think I solved my problem. I hope. I went back to basics and looked at the wiring and just for the heck of it I cut back the ground wire and stripped it, then attached the connector. I worked. I think there might have been a break in the wire near the end which caused it to work and then not to work. It was so intermittent that I couldn't tell it wasn't functioning properly.
I went to the timer and manually ran it a couple of times and it worked fine. I think I got lucky.
Thanks for the response.
Certainly don't want to Twerk (6:58) it to hard, good save there, lmfao! Good info here thanks for the video!!!
haha good catch - torque* lol
So I’ve already changed out the parts on the valve and it continues to leak water. Could it be the solenoid that’s bad?
Check the o ring that goes on the solenoid. After that make sure all the parts are installed as they previously were and that all the bolts are snug tight. Try and see if you can’t isolate where the water starts to leak out from.
@@thesprinklerchannel like I said, I changed everything out about two months ago and it’s been working fine and all of a sudden it’s doing it again. But the only thing I didn’t change was a solenoid. Thank you for your response.
It shuts off by itself when I use the manual run on the display, but won't shut off when I run it on auto. Would this still apply? Also it only keeps the last zone running, I even switched zones to run last and the last one always stays on.
Sounds like an issue with the motherboard of the clock, might trying using / getting a new clock and see if the problem still persist.
Could Teo of them fail at the same time? I opened two solenoids and it's not affected. The other two turn on a different section.
Very unlikely but two of them could possibly have debris stuck in them.
Quick question... My Rainbird valve won't shut off. I disassembled it and it was very clean, but it seems like the body of the valve is getting beat up by the underside of the yellow filter when the diaphragm closes. Is this normal? Wish I could attach a picture to help explain...
Hmmm, not familiar with the yellow filter you are referring to. Maybe a link to a site with similar set up you could leave me here to see what you are referring to.
I would look at replacing everything but the body of the valve if you’ve flushed it multiple times and still doesn’t shut off.
@@thesprinklerchannel Good evening. My prior responses today don't seem to have been posted? Maybe because of the link(s) I was tryin to post? Nonetheless, the filter I was speaking about is the pilot flow filter, and the part that's a little beat up is the valve seat.
I rebuilt the diaphragm (and back-flushed) and that didn't help, replaced the solenoid and that seemed to work, once... but when I ran the Rainbird SST 600in Timer for Zone 1, and toggled down the minutes to only run for 1 minute, the sprinkler valve didn't close after several minutes passed, and when I rotated the dial to off, it still didn't close. Prior to installing the Solenoid I checked the voltage at the wiring in the valve box and it was about 22V with the zone "on". I didn't think to check the voltage when the zone was "off... 😞
After the failure I removed the common and the "zone" wire at the controller and did an ohm test on the wires and got continuity. Should there be continuity if the valve should be off? Maybe the controller has a fault?
Thanks,
David
Here's my video th-cam.com/users/shortsHZyY_FaK3IU
yes
Thanks for the Video. Have a Hunter Sprinkler system with an Orbit B-Hyve controller. Everything was working fine till a few weeks. I was watering manually using the Orbit app and we had a week of sporadic rain in Toronto so didnt need to water. This weekend tried to water and there was no water in any zone using the app. Deleted and reinstalled the app. Checked the voltage and Ohm at the controller end. Also tested each solenoid and had a steady reading. Even replaced the controller. I can turn on the water for each zone by turning on the solenoid using quarter turn but other than that I cant get the controller to water. Not sure where the fault is. Appreciate help
Checked internet connection? From controller on wall it won’t even turn on? But the zones will manually if you turn on at solenoid?
@@thesprinklerchannel Interconnection is available and working as also the app has beereinstalled. I can manually turn on the valve using a screwdriver quarter turn but the app itself And the controller will not manually water
Everything was consistent. I removed the rains sensor, rewired everything and now its working. Thanks for your response
What about sprinklers that keep turning themselves on and going through the zones with the system being set to off?
Watch this video along with its sequel / part two (both found in videos of TH-cam channel).
Sprinkler Clock Programming Made Easy
th-cam.com/video/zLL-njHdm8Y/w-d-xo.html
You probably have some start times possibly under different programs.
When you say system set to off, do you mean clock is turned or set to the off position or just start times?
@@thesprinklerchannel the panel. I even set the zones to 0 minutes and the whole system to off, but it's still turning on and going through the zones as if they were set to run
Hello, what's the 5% of the time? I replaced everything but the housing and it still does not turn off.
Did you flush the entire system thoroughly? Need to also make sure you are flushing the right valve. Replacing parts won’t fix if some tiny pebble or debris still in line.
For me it is ALWAYS a fried HUNTER (POS) wifi controller. I got 4yrs out of the 1st one and 1yr out of the second one.
I have 2 zones that have poor pressure. When I open them manually with the bleeder they still have low pressure. I dont believe that it's a root pinching the line as I dont hear any pinches anywhere in my yard. I also dont see any major leaks. Thoughts of what may be causing this??
Interesting. Did both zones become low pressure at same time? First thoughts would be making sure there aren’t two start times or multiple programs running same time, if two zones try to run same time that will be the result (low pressure). If it’s always been the case it could be too many heads on the zone / too much water outflow for given pressure.
@@thesprinklerchannel checked the clock...thats not the issue. Might it be an issue with the solenoid or diaphram??
cant you flush out through one of the sprinklers from that station?
Negative, the issue is it can’t get past the diaphragm which is why it keeps zone on.
How do you trace which valve to which zone. Thanks
Using a multimeter or typically the color connected to valve is same color at zone terminal at clock. A few other work-arounds as well.
When I turn the controller to off, all the valves stay on. How do I fix that?
So flushing the valves didn’t work?
What a great f%#%*ing video. Awesome dude
Thanks!
Thank you very much @navalverma!
Your a teacher
Camera should be more closed up so we can see better. Thanks
What i thought it was a selonoid problem most of the time if they are stuck on
When I first started I thought the same but most of the time it’s debris stuck in valve keeping the diaphragm open.
@@thesprinklerchannelfyi you were right too so thanks again!
I don’t even know where my valves are 😂😂😂
Turn off the main shut off valve while you look for the valve boxes if you need to.
Hello,
We have 3 zones running at one time, how do we fix this?
Go into each program and check start times. Use only one start time on one program. Check out our sprinkler clock videos. Let us know if this worked for ya.
Sprinkler Clock Programming Made Easy
th-cam.com/video/zLL-njHdm8Y/w-d-xo.html
Sprinkler Clock Programming Made Easy - Sequel
th-cam.com/video/cRYBjeA42CI/w-d-xo.html
I don't even know what you are talking about. Where are the valves located.
Valves and in the valve box respectively
Hey man, good video, but what advice can you offer in my situation. My rain bird controller has an auto and off switch and it days hours you can program zones etc. Once it reaches zone 10 its supposed to go into a "rest" mode and shut off the pump but the pump just runs and runs and won't shut off until I turn it off at the breaker. Any suggestions?
Can you share what specific controller model you have?