Mazda 3 Idling Low & Stalling FIX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video we get a low idling Mazda 3 that wants to stall on deceleration. We confirmed no faults and carried out a throttle body clean and idle speed relearn which fixed the customers complaint.
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Just another comment to say thankyou, 2006 BK Mazda, changed all engine mounts then stalled on slowing or stopping, but would only do when engine coolant was cold, once warm it wouldn’t do it. Issue solved with a strip and clean of the throttle body and a relearn, cheers mate 🤟🏽
Thank you for letting me know!
From one Aussie to another, thank you very much. This is my exact issue on my 2013 BL manual. I’m off to buy a TB gasket and some cleaner. Appreciate your guide on battery disconnect and idle relearning.
Update: Stripped Throttle Body and MAF out. Cleaned with CRC TB cleaner and CRC MAF cleaner respectively. Rebuilt, burped coolant whilst warming up. Calibrated perfectly at 760rpm for the manual which was up from 510rpm before. No more stalling at intersections after test drive. Whole repair cost $59 including cans and gasket as I had a bit of a credit at Supercheap.
My Mazda3 was stalling and rough idle while standing still. After a lot of diagnosis and an OBD2 reader saying "Fuel System Open Loop 01". It turns out two of the 4 cylinders had air leaks on the intake manifold. The garage replaced all 4 gaskets to be on the safe side. Car now runs like brand new!
Great one, Love these models of Mazda 3 & 6😍
Thanks for sharing Bro, Stay Safe👍
Thanks Salman, hopefully this procedure helps you after the next battery change on one. Legend mate, thank you!
Very educational video. All your videos, are great.Waiting for the next one!
Thanks again Lambros. I appreciate the support!!
I had a customer a couple of years ago regarding a Mazda 3, with a very interesting issue related to pretty much the same thing, only it was an early model, similar engine to the one you showed but it had a cable/mechanical throttle body.
Customer stated it ran fine one day, and was a crank no-start the next.
When cranking, it cranked very fast and sounded like it had no compression on any cylinder.
I did a compression test, and sure enough it only had 5psi, on all 4 cylinders.
I thought, that's a bit unusual for all 4 to be so low, and all were pretty much identical psi?
I was starting to question my compression gauge, I didn't even think about the fact I forgot to open the throttle body when I did the compression test, but this was actually a lucky mistake.
I did an intake manifold cranking vacuum test next and I had about 25in/Hg while cranking!!??
I though, BINGO, and tried cranking the engine with my foot slightly on the throttle pedal, and BOOM she fired up, but it would stall as soon as I took my foot off the pedal.
I pulled the intake tube off and inspected the throttle body and butterfly.
The rear of the butterfly looked like the one you showed, and the throttle body had a nice ring of carbon all the way around.
I removed and cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve.
Fitted them back on and it fired right up and idled perfect, this time without touching the throttle pedal.
For a minute there I was ready to condemn that engine!!
Suffice to say, I learned something very useful that day🤣👍🇦🇺
Haha thats awesome Simon! We are learning something new everyday. At least you ended up getting the win on it!
this was like finding gold. thank you
I wished you showed how you removed the carbon. You said to just wipe it with solvent, ie, not spray flood, so I guess it's because it dissolves the grease in the throttle shaft bearing.
Will follow this , daughter car has 300k, just changed plugs, coils , was good for a while but cutting out again .
Common issues for these are
Pcv blocked
12v motor in throttle body buggered
Tcm for auto buggered
02 sensor /'s
Hi mate I have a mazda 3 2010 when you start on cold condition and put on reverse gear the will be engine cutting off and when it's reach a normal temperature it's hardstarting or too hot no dtc code thanks hopefully you can give advice
The mazda 3 2004-2013 are a good car and good to work on except starter Motor replacement
Coils also like to fail after new spark plug installation .
The idle relearn can take upto 30 min
I love the accidental soundtrack!
Haha awesome. That's my favourite radio station!
In every video, they said switch off all loads. What happens if I did my idle speed relearn with a load on?
Could this be a similar problem for a 1989 Ford laser occasionally stalling when breaking/coming to a stop?
Great video. Did you reset the check engine light after disconnecting the battery or did it clear itself?
Once you disconnect the battery, all running info stored in computer cleared, so the check engine light
Mate, Interesting your scan tool says it's 2005 , that vin on bottom of screen is a blue mazda 3 from W.A 2008 it's definitely as you say at the start being a 2008 .the pids are different from 2005 which your scan tool says and 2008 , The change over from cable throttle to drive by wire happened from 06/2006 , so there will be differences between pids and particularly in active command setting on the scan tool .Just for Reference on mazda 3 and 6 the 8th digit on vin is
F 2.0 petrol
3 2.3 usually sp23
L 2.5 sp25
5 2.5
Diesel , well who really cares about them .
A really good swap is the 2.5 bottom end particular in the turbo MPS its rated to 450hp in standard form they have forged internals .
When going from cable throttle to drive by wire the differences are
intake cam trigger wheel
crank trigger wheel
Coil 2 wire upto 6/06
Coil 3 wire 6/06 - 2013
I've put 2.3 and 2.5 from late model into earlier stuff which is good performance upgrade just by changing those items .
The A/C on bottom of sump has to be also considered with such swaps .
You are a legend mate, I always look forward to your comments. You always have interesting stuff to throw at me and take on board. Much appreciated!
Sometimes the vehicle don't take the idle relearn procedure. Was there an IAC stepper motor pid? I try to look at it from cold start so i can see what the IAC is doing. To see if its responding to the relearn.
Have you tried this before and not been successful DJ?
My car does this, ill try this option first.
l need advice with mazda Axela with 1.5 petrol engine 2004.no power when accelerating.up hill almost is gonna stop and idling is sometime is low below 600.
Any idea what to check.
Thanks
Hi Dulke, sorry but it's extremely hard for me to say what you need to do without seeing the car.
My Mazda 2010 when I leave the accelerated start cutting
I have done the prcedure a few times on my Mazda 6 with 215k miles.
Awesome Donald and does it work perfectly every time for you?
@@romanosautomotive Yes and resultant high idle is corrected by simple battery reset.
Thanks Rob
Appreciate the support like always Jeremy, cheers!
Should idle around 680 to 780
Great video just found you
Thanks Mark, I hope the videos are useful for you!
Hello, good morning, I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, it was presenting an electronic problem, without knowing I changed the battery, and nothing, I went on to change the alternator regulator, and well, I I bought, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing after a few minutes, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until that the battery discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to it, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less than less, that in a moment the battery goes, I recharge it, install it, and leave it connected for approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red alarm light was not flashing, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, did the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself what And this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, and then what is happening to you?, I have explained everything to you with hairs and bones, to see if you could help me determine the cause, because I do not understand it nor do I know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Was there any change in idle when A/C is turned on?
Are you having an issue with yours?
@@romanosautomotivei’m having an issue where mine turns off when the ac is on
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“Keep It Simple Stupid”. Good reminder that sometimes things can check both of our most important boxes…. Easy and cheap!.
That's it Kevin. Let's try not to over complicated these things. Check the simple things first!
Just a little carbon build up. Holy cow 😜.
We are always supposed in this trade, hey Kirk. Or is it, that nothing ever surprises us anymore? 🤣