This is an extremely old video but if anyone new is watching, same exact thing was happening to me rough idle, engine was shaking exactly how his is, it was misfiring and this was 1 day after I bought it the car had 177k miles and the spark plugs had never been changed so if this is happening to you just try changing spark plugs they are very cheap and it completely fixed everything for me
Trying to help my brother out with his mazda 2008 3, was it because you had bad plugs? When turning car on it jumps up to 2000 rpms & stays there until a couple seconds as the car cools down.
@@daniellucatero-jimenez.1440 no I have no idea what that is if it idles at 1,500 or so I would say it’s a bad idle air control valve but if it jumps to 2000 off the start that sounds like something isn’t pulling enough air into the engine right away meaning it’s delayed and that can either be a blown circuit a grounded wire or just a bad mechanical part I would try to start the engine with the hood open and listen for any areas that don’t sound normal in terms of air being pulled into the engine that would probably give you a better idea of where the problem is and then you can go off that
@@daniellucatero-jimenez.1440 jumping rpm is related to too much air actually try checking the throttle body and the idle air control valve both of those can get all kinds of grease in them and cause them not to flow properly
@@parkerlong808 you think I’d have to check a fuse for this 🤔 Id assume I have a vacuum leak going on somewhere within my car maybe it’s intake or could it be the PCV valve? I’ll definitely check that tomorrow I once ran my own car with a PCV but not one of the hoses it connected to & it gave me a high idle than normal.
Some things to note: As others mention, use the proper cleaner, don't just default to using 'brake parts cleaner' for everything; next, also use fuel injector cleaner - wait till gas refill time; then pour in a bottle of Techron or equivalent, since your injectors also can get dirty over time; next, as mentioned - ignition coil could be faulty; next, why not go ahead & change spark plugs? Maybe even plug wires? Those would seem the most likely things. Could be slightly dirty spark plug; or moderately-faulty plug wire.
just reset computer by disconnecting Battery for 15 minutes! and then restart and let it run idle for 20 minutes! BOOM! computer learns all the dirt and problems but YES new spark plugs are a must!
I had the same issue... disconnect negative from battery hold the foot brake down for 30sec to discharge the capacitors... reconnect negative ... car ran smooth
@@rayneedaebluz that resets the ECU (computer). It basically makes the computer go back to mile number one. Think of it this way: as you drive your car, the ECU learns a few things. For example, it learns driving habits- when you speed up, when you slow down, highway and surface street driving etc. it also learns when to adjust things like air/fuel ratios and timing advances and retarding. After tens of thousands of miles, the ecu adjusts for components that start to wear as well. Things such as O2 sensors, MAF sensors, etc. When you reset the ECU (BTW every car is different when resetting), you refresh the ECU back to factory settings. If your car has an issue, resetting is ONLY a temporary fix. Look up "how to reset my ECU on my (enter your make, model and year" and you'll find how to reset it specifically for your vehicle. Good Luck!
I facepalmed watching this. Been postponing cleaning my TB due to the coolant lines. (just being lazy not wanting to deal with the mess and clamping the tubes shut) Idk why it never crossed my mind to just not disconnect them! Great to see there's more than enough room to do so atleast
@@o0kilabot0o the same goes with carburetor cleaner too it does the same as brake cleaner that's why some mechanics mentioned to remove gaskets before cleaning with them cleaners that I have found out I found that out the hard way Lol 😂
Looks to me a typical iginition coil problem, mazda is known for it. Also check your Engine and Trans mounts(PSMM, RMM and DSTM), mounts are knwon to cause the most of the vibration in these models
How can you tell if the coils are going out? Mines throwing a p0101 a month after a new MAF. did EGR a year ago. Neither fixed stalling and rough idle. Ideas? Would Love to eliminate the engine rattle too lol
break cleaner DOES not leave residue, the news at least THAT is the whole point of BRAKE CLEANER! to leave the BRAKE disc and pads with NO residue! but i get your point
Excelente!! Lo único que según el manual el orden de encendido es 1 2 3 en el lado del firewall y e 4 5 6 es del lado del radiador. Como es un motor Ford siempre me guio de esa forma. Pensé que estuve equivocado toda la vida.
Do you have a video on the removal of the purge valve solenoid? That engine ran much smoother! How is the car when you add some gas, do it run now without shaking?
I’ve been chasing a rough running/lean condition on a Mazda 5 since I bought it for a year now…started with cheapest/regular maintenance first. MAF cleaned (with MAF cleaner), throttle body cleaned and did reset procedure, changed spark plugs with NGK, O2 sensors with NGK, the purge valve like what he cleaned was replaced because of a gas smell from the engine, the injectors were leaking recently so those were just replaced too. And after all that maintenance/replacing actually failed parts, the engine still runs rough. I really hoped that there with be a difference after each upgrade, but it’s the same and it’s very demoralizing…how come no one can figure this out. I’d anyone had any ideas, I’m open to ideas
I suppose yea you might have a rough idle. 2.3 are pretty noisy anyways with the thinks like intake rattles. how do u know your misfiring, a misfire is a big deal, the car would lose alot of power. And pretty sure it would throw a code for sure, no doubt.
Oh ya your engine light blinks. Very serious issue . i had it on my mazda p5 and i changed spark plug wires and coil boots . its usually coils or plugs
Oh yes, a great way to mess up things. Depending the make and model of your car, you always want to disconnect the battery first before working under the hood.
Dose anyone know if the Accelerator pedal sensor can cause rough idle shift problems..auto transmission .. And car cutting off...2012 mazda 3 i please and thank you
Rebel Scum That rough idle can be solved by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and pressing brake pedal for 30 second! Reconnect battery and start the car and let it idle run for 30 then turn on Air conditioner then let it idle for another 10 min! Then drive it as you would normally for 20 min on highway and local street! The "shift shock" from 1st to 2nd gear still has me baffled!
Bad idea with brake cleaner !, should only use throttle body cleaner, it's designed for the job ! Neither with the maf sensor either. I would have started with new spark plugs, also to reset pcm you need to ground positive lead to get rid of any residual current,,,
Your blow by hose is turning your Throttlebody black and your intake full of oil . I disconnected my blow by hose and my throttle body hasn’t been black in years
Stop using a k&n filter. I works like $hit and all the dust gets trapped in my throttle body of my Mazda 2. I'm cleaning up the throttle body and putting the oem paper air filter back into my car. Runs better and has a better mileage with the oem filter anyway.
Guys I need help.. I have mazda 3 2005 1.6... When ever I on ac my car accelerater go up n down automatically.. Then I turn off Ac car is normal again.... It's only happen when I on Ac... Can anyone tell me what is problem?? Please
It is normal for the engine rpm to go up when you turn on the AC. It takes HP to run the AC, because of the compressor. If you do not notice any idling or performance issues, I feel there may be no issue. I hope that helps.
I hand A/C and engine code problems although I didn’t know the A/C was involved changed lots of things that didn’t work but changed the 02 sensor and fixed it
Please someone with knowledge help me before I do any damage to my engine swarp (mazda 3 exella hatchback. 2005 engine into the 2004 car. Diagnosis results: 1.evaporative emission vapor management fault.status on demand. 2. Intake manifold tuning valve control circuit low..bank 1. 3. Intake manifold runner control circuit low...bank 1. 4. Crankshaft position actuator A control circuit low...bank 1. 2. IM STILL WAITING FOR ONE GOOD SAMARITAN TO HELP ME.
bikego alex I found a vacuum leak on my 07 Mazda 3. It’s right on the Intake manifold itself I’ll try to link a video that helped me. I know the years are off but it could be very similar or practically identical. Anyways what the guy shows fixed my problem after struggling forever to figure it out. th-cam.com/video/YvEih6yhqfM/w-d-xo.html
Thats the first thing I always do with a suspected misfire and I inspect the wires and coils.Ive literally seen walmart destroy my aunts coil pack in her 2001 beetle by spraying cold water on a hot part! Thank god they didnt crack the block that day!
@Benjamin's Universe misfires on specific cylinders has to do with either coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, or spark wires going to the coil pack on that cylinder. Check these first. Absolute worst case scenario is loss of compression on cylinder 4, however that isn't the cause 99% of the time so don't freak out unless none of the above had fixed it previously
This is an extremely old video but if anyone new is watching, same exact thing was happening to me rough idle, engine was shaking exactly how his is, it was misfiring and this was 1 day after I bought it the car had 177k miles and the spark plugs had never been changed so if this is happening to you just try changing spark plugs they are very cheap and it completely fixed everything for me
Trying to help my brother out with his mazda 2008 3, was it because you had bad plugs? When turning car on it jumps up to 2000 rpms & stays there until a couple seconds as the car cools down.
@@daniellucatero-jimenez.1440 no I have no idea what that is if it idles at 1,500 or so I would say it’s a bad idle air control valve but if it jumps to 2000 off the start that sounds like something isn’t pulling enough air into the engine right away meaning it’s delayed and that can either be a blown circuit a grounded wire or just a bad mechanical part I would try to start the engine with the hood open and listen for any areas that don’t sound normal in terms of air being pulled into the engine that would probably give you a better idea of where the problem is and then you can go off that
@@daniellucatero-jimenez.1440 jumping rpm is related to too much air actually try checking the throttle body and the idle air control valve both of those can get all kinds of grease in them and cause them not to flow properly
@@parkerlong808 you think I’d have to check a fuse for this 🤔 Id assume I have a vacuum leak going on somewhere within my car maybe it’s intake or could it be the PCV valve? I’ll definitely check that tomorrow I once ran my own car with a PCV but not one of the hoses it connected to & it gave me a high idle than normal.
@@parkerlong808 I’ll check out the throttle body tomorrow do you know where the Idle air control valve is at on the Mazda 3?
Some things to note: As others mention, use the proper cleaner, don't just default to using 'brake parts cleaner' for everything; next, also use fuel injector cleaner - wait till gas refill time; then pour in a bottle of Techron or equivalent, since your injectors also can get dirty over time; next, as mentioned - ignition coil could be faulty; next, why not go ahead & change spark plugs? Maybe even plug wires? Those would seem the most likely things. Could be slightly dirty spark plug; or moderately-faulty plug wire.
just reset computer by disconnecting Battery for 15 minutes! and then restart and let it run idle for 20 minutes! BOOM! computer learns all the dirt and problems but YES new spark plugs are a must!
I had the same issue... disconnect negative from battery hold the foot brake down for 30sec to discharge the capacitors... reconnect negative ... car ran smooth
bill blyth where’d you learn to do this?
@@onixtheone is it true?
@@rayneedaebluz that resets the ECU (computer). It basically makes the computer go back to mile number one. Think of it this way: as you drive your car, the ECU learns a few things. For example, it learns driving habits- when you speed up, when you slow down, highway and surface street driving etc. it also learns when to adjust things like air/fuel ratios and timing advances and retarding. After tens of thousands of miles, the ecu adjusts for components that start to wear as well. Things such as O2 sensors, MAF sensors, etc. When you reset the ECU (BTW every car is different when resetting), you refresh the ECU back to factory settings. If your car has an issue, resetting is ONLY a temporary fix. Look up "how to reset my ECU on my (enter your make, model and year" and you'll find how to reset it specifically for your vehicle. Good Luck!
@@e.g.5806 w
OMG! The sh*t did work when I read it i though this has to be a joke you just save me a lot of money thanks.
Dont ever use brake cleaner or even carburetor cleaner on these cars. Use contact cleaner instead. its less abrasive to sensitive components.
I facepalmed watching this. Been postponing cleaning my TB due to the coolant lines. (just being lazy not wanting to deal with the mess and clamping the tubes shut)
Idk why it never crossed my mind to just not disconnect them!
Great to see there's more than enough room to do so atleast
Do not ever clean a maf sensor with brake cleaner
Why???
@@luisperez3187 Brake cleaner will eat seal's and makes the plastic parts very brittle.
yup
theres specific maf sensor cleaning😊
What if you don’t know who the mafs censor is?
@@o0kilabot0o the same goes with carburetor cleaner too it does the same as brake cleaner that's why some mechanics mentioned to remove gaskets before cleaning with them cleaners that I have found out I found that out the hard way Lol 😂
Looks to me a typical iginition coil problem, mazda is known for it. Also check your Engine and Trans mounts(PSMM, RMM and DSTM), mounts are knwon to cause the most of the vibration in these models
Youbaraj Sharma the Mazda mounts are total shit
If I go to a Mazda dealer will they change these out for better ones?
How can you tell if the coils are going out? Mines throwing a p0101 a month after a new MAF. did EGR a year ago. Neither fixed stalling and rough idle. Ideas? Would
Love to eliminate the engine rattle too lol
Don't use brake cleaner you need to use throttlebody fluid cleaner so it doesn't leave a residue on your throttlebody
break cleaner DOES not leave residue, the news at least THAT is the whole point of BRAKE CLEANER! to leave the BRAKE disc and pads with NO residue! but i get your point
I changed the air filter and that fixed it. It hadn't been changed in a long time it looked like.
Excelente!! Lo único que según el manual el orden de encendido es 1 2 3 en el lado del firewall y e 4 5 6 es del lado del radiador. Como es un motor Ford siempre me guio de esa forma. Pensé que estuve equivocado toda la vida.
Looks like you have a bad motor mount
Do you have a video on the removal of the purge valve solenoid? That engine ran much smoother! How is the car when you add some gas, do it run now without shaking?
spark...air...fuel...compression...timing
...useless cryptic TH-cam comments....
I’ve been chasing a rough running/lean condition on a Mazda 5 since I bought it for a year now…started with cheapest/regular maintenance first. MAF cleaned (with MAF cleaner), throttle body cleaned and did reset procedure, changed spark plugs with NGK, O2 sensors with NGK, the purge valve like what he cleaned was replaced because of a gas smell from the engine, the injectors were leaking recently so those were just replaced too. And after all that maintenance/replacing actually failed parts, the engine still runs rough. I really hoped that there with be a difference after each upgrade, but it’s the same and it’s very demoralizing…how come no one can figure this out. I’d anyone had any ideas, I’m open to ideas
Change your fuel filter bro! In tank fuel filters are crap. Try to bypass the in tank fuel filter with an external one.
I suppose yea you might have a rough idle. 2.3 are pretty noisy anyways with the thinks like intake rattles. how do u know your misfiring, a misfire is a big deal, the car would lose alot of power. And pretty sure it would throw a code for sure, no doubt.
Oh ya your engine light blinks. Very serious issue . i had it on my mazda p5 and i changed spark plug wires and coil boots . its usually coils or plugs
You can usually hear a misfire.Its not hard.If its surging listen carefully and if you hear it chopping you likely have a misfire.
@@TesNRad did it last? How was the car
@@KollynJ 2 years later I still have the same car, She runs great. Coils are still the same since I changed them before my original comment .
@@TesNRad how far did you drive with misfire? Wondering how far you can go before it’s detrimental as a guy is selling one w a p0300
They make MAF sensor cleaner for the MAF sensor. If your reading this, DO NOT use brake cleaner on your MAF sensor!!!!!
Usually misfires are spark plugs.
"...It could be a lot of other thing.....it could be vereything!" :D
Did you disconnected the baterry lol
No he didn’t
Oh yes, a great way to mess up things. Depending the make and model of your car, you always want to disconnect the battery first before working under the hood.
Dose anyone know if the Accelerator pedal sensor can cause rough idle shift problems..auto transmission .. And car cutting off...2012 mazda 3 i please and thank you
Rebel Scum That rough idle can be solved by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and pressing brake pedal for 30 second! Reconnect battery and start the car and let it idle run for 30 then turn on Air conditioner then let it idle for another 10 min! Then drive it as you would normally for 20 min on highway and local street! The "shift shock" from 1st to 2nd gear still has me baffled!
Here in australia mazda offer a tcm update to get rid of that clunky 1st to 2nd gear change it has something to do with the plates in the gearbox
Bad idea with brake cleaner !, should only use throttle body cleaner, it's designed for the job ! Neither with the maf sensor either. I would have started with new spark plugs, also to reset pcm you need to ground positive lead to get rid of any residual current,,,
Your blow by hose is turning your Throttlebody black and your intake full of oil . I disconnected my blow by hose and my throttle body hasn’t been black in years
Carlos Araujo this is happening to me on a mazda 6 2003 three care to share how to go about it.
Stop using a k&n filter. I works like $hit and all the dust gets trapped in my throttle body of my Mazda 2. I'm cleaning up the throttle body and putting the oem paper air filter back into my car. Runs better and has a better mileage with the oem filter anyway.
Thanks repairED your video saved me some cash and sorted my issue
did you tune it up change vspark plugs ...thank you will try this..
tune what up
@@soundsandambientvideos380 UMMM THE LAWNMOWER ??? SMFH HOW ABOUT MAYBE THE ENGINE SEEN THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE VIDEO LMAO
Tune up the piano he means. You need to turn up your piano and that might help
Idle air control , plugs and coils
Spark plugs my friend and new spark plug cables...
I have same problem but i dont know how to do!.. :(
And how car worked the next day?
Sounds like your egr going back or vent case solenoid
i am sure your motor is a 2ltr... not 2.3.... you can tell by the oil dip stick location
Its the 2.3L the 2.0L have the dipstick in the middle.
@@romandunka6235 And the cosmetic cover is smaller.
I have the same engine. That's the 2.3
Looks just like my sister's.Hers is a 2.0 I'll look Monday and see for myself.
What was the spray u used to clean it
he used brake cleaner. thats is not recommended. what you need is Throttle cleaner. its 10 bucks
I have 2006 mazda 3 319.000k miles that has a up down idle only when a/c is on What could it most likely be ?
I had same problem,mine was from alternator.Check that first.
how about egr valve?
What . You used brake cleaner on a maf ?
nunca use eso pa limpiar el maf sensor
Guys I need help.. I have mazda 3 2005 1.6... When ever I on ac my car accelerater go up n down automatically.. Then I turn off Ac car is normal again.... It's only happen when I on Ac... Can anyone tell me what is problem?? Please
It is normal for the engine rpm to go up when you turn on the AC. It takes HP to run the AC, because of the compressor. If you do not notice any idling or performance issues, I feel there may be no issue. I hope that helps.
Normal it happens with all cars not a problem at all
I hand A/C and engine code problems although I didn’t know the A/C was involved changed lots of things that didn’t work but changed the 02 sensor and fixed it
It's absolutely normal in japanese cars. In this form, the engine never stalls with AC on.
Please someone with knowledge help me before I do any damage to my engine swarp (mazda 3 exella hatchback. 2005 engine into the 2004 car.
Diagnosis results: 1.evaporative emission vapor management fault.status on demand.
2. Intake manifold tuning valve control circuit low..bank 1.
3. Intake manifold runner control circuit low...bank 1.
4. Crankshaft position actuator A control circuit low...bank 1.
2. IM STILL WAITING FOR ONE GOOD SAMARITAN TO HELP ME.
smoke test engine & never fill gas tank to top
bikego alex I found a vacuum leak on my 07 Mazda 3. It’s right on the Intake manifold itself I’ll try to link a video that helped me. I know the years are off but it could be very similar or practically identical. Anyways what the guy shows fixed my problem after struggling forever to figure it out. th-cam.com/video/YvEih6yhqfM/w-d-xo.html
that would be a stretched timing chain my friend.
u should check engine temp sensor. heard they go bad. also never disconnect batteru on this model. or they run crapy.
You have to let run 20 minutes, turn AC on and run another 20 minutes to reset/relearn after battery has been disconnected or runs like crap. 😬
How to solve this p2705 code
You just had a bad purge solenoid which is common with these
I guess
Cannot use brake cleaner to clean maf sensor. Not good!
Only use electrical parts cleaner.
Engine filter is dirty
I'll bet on the red hose sucking air.
Get a tight fitting hose.
Fixed mine with a new motor mount. Ha.
Same I need a new one. I heard it was a recall. Im going to look my vin up and see. Im planning to do all of them with high quality mounts.
manifold sensor valve
Morning chief is it possible for me to phoned u please
Get a bucket and water and clean your Engine Man
While it is cold!!!! I have seen people dump cold water on a block and destroy their engine.......Dont do it.
مرحبا ممكن سوال
Turbo mannafold and engine flange gasget is too suit Mazda sports edition sedan bk1mounth model bk1mounth model bk1mounth model
Spark plugs
Русский что-ли?
землянин точно
Lol you didn't even pull the spark plugs wtf
Thats the first thing I always do with a suspected misfire and I inspect the wires and coils.Ive literally seen walmart destroy my aunts coil pack in her 2001 beetle by spraying cold water on a hot part! Thank god they didnt crack the block that day!
The code for me was p0304 cylinder 4 misfire
@Benjamin's Universe misfires on specific cylinders has to do with either coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, or spark wires going to the coil pack on that cylinder. Check these first. Absolute worst case scenario is loss of compression on cylinder 4, however that isn't the cause 99% of the time so don't freak out unless none of the above had fixed it previously
Y u use brake cleaner? Those are not brake parts🤣🤣
That hot air intake isn't helping either.
Ya where is the rest of the intake... that is only part of the K&N cold air intake... and he doesn't have the bracket on....
What's the name is the second part he cleaned
purge control valve