Bar weights - what do they do?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2017
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nope it's to make sparks when you get those sick elbows down on the roundabout outside maccas
Lol. Whatch out Marquez.
That makes sense. I lost one of mine somehow and the handle feel lot more shakey but I never thought those two things are connected. I thought bearing might cause the issue. But I've checked and all the bearing are fine. Never realised that thing play quite significant role. Like most people would have thought, it's a scrape protection.
Mass Dampers they are called, used in all sorts of places in cars . On brake callipers, subframe, engine mounts,engine torque reaction rods/beams,even on bulkheads, lumps of cast iron of critical mass to damp out noise and vibration basically . you also see them on bridges on the support cables .. A good example are the concrete lumps in a washing machine ! keep up the good work Matt 😁
lol I just removed a block on concrete from a washing machine so it was easier to move lol
Love the way you quickly explained the chart as you drew it.... lol
Loved the Transformers interlude, took me back :D
' Take the Jonny off ' lol a brilliant term for a protective cover ha ha.
The feeling that you talk about is called the "white finger" problem. The same as using a jackhammer. They usually wear gloves made of goat leather. That reduces the vibrations.
Goats are BRILLIANT!
Thanks for a really good video.
I ended up stuffing the ends of the handlebars, on my derestricted 1977 CZ 175-477.5 (airbox plenum chamber massive metal restrictor pipe removed after much hard work), with plasticene, way back in 1986, because at 75 MPH in top gear there was this painful finger numbing vibration that even penetrated my motorcycle gloves. It felt like frozen fingers. It started bang on 75 MPH and ended just as sharply at 79 MPH. No vibes anywhere else, even flat out at 89 MPH.
I actually discovered that it had this unpleasant vibe problem whilst returning from Southampton at "warp speed" in the fast lane of the M27. It just suddenly hit and my fingers felt numb, though there was no actual shaking of the bars (so micro vibrations). As I was going for a "let's see how fast this bike can go" session I just rode through it, hoping that it would end as the bike latched deeper into the top (4th) gear powerband.
I've had to sort out bar vibe problems on other folk's bikes over the years but this particular case was the nastiest.
An old biker acquaintance's wife used to ride a Triumph 5TA that vibrated a lot. He told me that she would always jump off the bike at junctions, at traffic lights, etc. when waiting as the vibes would make her weak at the knees and cause her to leave a mess on the saddle if she sat on it when stopped.
Can you just weight your original ends for replacements? If your changing the bars for wider bars and they are made from a different material won't it change the resonating frequency? And also if you go from clip-ons to yoke mounted bars wouldn't that also affect the frequency due to the medium through which it travels?
I’m definitely gonna invest in some since the moped makes my whole body numb
Is having rubber separating the weight from the bar end itself a critical part of the way these work to dampen vibration? Or could the weight be attached to a welded nut?
No, its the mass at the end of the bars
I know what you mean. It`s called, "White Finger". I put some after market clip-ons, on my RD, and my hands tingled for hours after getting off!
i have bar end weights on my scooter. would filling the hollow handle bar with something like solid rubber then capping the end work. the rubber i would have thought would reduce vibration..
And here I thought they were just to keep wasps from building nests in the hollow bars. What a fool I've been.
Also they look cool.
Brilliant video thank u 👀♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I search this because I have a 2021 Ninja 1000sx And I bought a pair of bar ends from ebay ,carbon fiber with Ninja engraved, but What got me by surprised was how light they are compared to my original ends, they looks nice but I was concerned why the difference in the weight and does it means something for the original to be this heavy.
i am 12 (and i am building/ repairing dirt bikes) and i want to make a moped that you could ride for hours... so i make little notes so i can add thoes ideas on the moped.. and your idea is on my list now.. thank you, my friend(and sorry if my english is crap, i am from another country)
i forgot to say that you make great videos and keep on doing what your doing
Hey man been watching you for a while now and i think you should start a patreon or so because i like the things you do and kinda want to support you in what you are doing and even if it doesnt work well a couple bucks are still a couple bucks more every month
Thx must have overlooked it in your description congrats to your 10000 and i will donate something soon 4sure
How do you feel bars end perform against carbon fiber. Carbon fiber bars have incredible damping. I broke the ones on my road bicycle and replaced them with aluminum. Not only did my hands vibrate numb, but even general road surface transmitted a ton. I think they'd be a good option for a road motorcycle, maybe damp across a wider frequency?
The problem with carbon fibre handlebars is then they explode into dust if you have a nice heavy crash. Metal bars bend but you can still use them.
Cheers fella great video, do you have any recommendations on weight needed to chill the vibes on a CRF250m?
The stock ones
Unless prove changes your bars
i have heard that they also stabilize a little bit of the road feedback , like a steering damper. is that true?
Yes has has I am aware .the boss in the handle bar that bar weight screws into usually has some form of rubber damping inside.
Changed my grips for the first time and thought ah what the hell im not cutting the ends off these new grips for some bar ends. Was very upset when I learned my lesson on bar ends while on the freeway, felt like my forearm and hands were being tazed.
I have to make up something usefull to say because im so early... What does exhaust matter in 4 stroke engine? Isnt just straight pipe best? But you still need some resistance there. But for what?
good question actually
doesnt back pressure affect a little bit where the power is gonna be because less back pressure(straight pipe, minimal bends)=hp and torque at higher rpm and viceversa
great answer ddude id like to add that low end throttle response is improved greatly by adding back pressure
"back pressure" is both a myth and a misnomer. exhaust gas velocity and resonant leghth tuned to match the cam tuning.
a smaller exhaust will have to flow the same amount of gas so the velocity will be higher, vice versa for large ID. watch some of Matt's videos on 2T tuning and theory and you'll start to get the idea. 4T engines have similar scavenging effects with the exhaust valve closing at the right moment when a pressure wave has come back along the length of the exhaust system after bouncing off either outside atmo or a resonating chamber. changing the length of the pipe is a royal pain. that's why all the fuss with variable valve timing going back to the days of just picking a cam for the application, on up through v-tec and into the future with pneumatics and freevalve.
if more back pressure was better then just stuff a cork in the tailpipe and get loads of torque. if less was better then just remove the headers, shed weight and rev to the moon. neither of these is true. because "back pressure" is not an accurate description of how exhaust tuning works.
Thanks a lot mate! I had some kind of idea, that is effect the power band. This gave me something more to think about. Doesnt inlet manifold also effect torque & power some weird way?
Greate drawing skills
Sebastian L Not so ‘greate’ spelling skills…
if you have those weight can you actually fit bar end mirrors on your bikes? just wondering haha and i love your vids I am 17 now and I have a weekend job in a yamaha and suzuki dealer/grage and you have learned me so much in school I study car mechanics but bikes are so amazing what the engineers can push out a 1000cc compared to a car is just amazing so yeah i' ll see you in a bit haha
It would be a good idea to weigh your bar end mirror against the weights you have already. You can always add weight if needed. Having the wrong weight can sometimes (ususal not though) make the vibration worse.
I love your videos man. I'm a massive supermoto fanboy, but I want to know why some supermotos are more suited to street use than others. My 690 SMC R will go 10,000km between oil changes, yet I am yet to reach 10,000km on a single top end on my Husaberg FS650. What are the engineering differences to make such a massive change in reliability? Keep up the great technical videos!
NewSchooler I understand every point you mentioned. But I'd like to see a step by step breakdown of why the two styles of engines are so similar, yet miles apart in their design. Like, what specifically will a second compression ring do to aid longevity? I just don't understand why a 450 hasn't been developed which can last like a touring bike, but still have enough grunt to keep up with the MX variants. Why is it only the 250 class which gets lightweight bullet proof engines like the WR250R? Why not have a WR450R too?
Like schooler says one bike is in a higher state of tune less tolerance needing higher service intervals More rings more friction. More rings need more side skirt, the shorter the side skirt the less the friction. Smaller sided pistons can rev higher and at high revs. running at high revs will cause wear needing more service intervals .
Moto Guzzi stuck them on for fashion, as removing them made no difference, or was it a hang over from replacing an 18 wheel with a 16 while making zero other changes.
That kawa poster lol, "the dick, and the balls"
between 4,500 and 6,000 rpm my whole bike moves up and down a whole quarter inch at like 60 Hz, ive even had problems with the motor mount bolts and nylon lock nuts backing out just enough for the bolt to knock up and down in the motor mount tabs and wearing groves in the bolts and wollowing out the holes, i shit you not it is the sketchiest bike to have ever existed, do you think if i plugged all the tube ends on that bike with some of them bar weights it would damper down the bike ringing?
Sounds like your suspension is too soft. Try replacing your fork oil and shimming the springs after that if it doesn't help
oh hehe heres the thing, the front shocks dont have a proper top screw in cylinder cap, only way to change oil . . .dont ask me i havent been able to find it, probably tear out dust wipers and theres a spanner threaaded ring or something and the rear shock is air filled, like instead of an oil filler plug it has a schrader valve stem, we found that out after we snapped it in half, un bolted it and welded a piece of box section in at unloaded height, the rear shock snapped cause the air leaked out over time and lost stiffness, also its a shit bike made in a sweatshop in china for pennys by forced labor children, i dare you to try and find a worse bike to have ever existed, ghetto rigging anything on it is usually a reliabillity improvement, one of those ssr, apollo variants, videos out there of 12 year old city kids saying they arnt shit but if you actually ride bikes they cant handle a day of it
but i appreciate the advice, if i ever have that problem with a real bike with proper adjustable shocks ill know what to do, and i did notice the bike rear wheel slapping up and down on the ground cause no air in shock, that alone probably caused more than the motor, the vibration of the motor was there in any gear but the violent bike shaking was mainly in 4th gear
i have this on my homda cbf 500 from 2006 i have the bar weights in its all original but after 1 hour on highway my hands are fucked
switched out bar ends in past for some plastic carbon jobbies man in garage said" I shouldn't do" it & I should of listened fuck it was horrible vibes & handling .
vibration white finger
I was gonna comment "can't you just tap the inside of those bars and use other bar weights?" annnnd then I remembered how much Renthal parts cost because of the very high quality of their parts and who can afford those parts.
Aluminum has a natural anti vibration or “deadness” to it. Shouldn’t we just use some thicker walled aluminum tubing?
"Aluminum has a natural anti vibration or “deadness” to it"
- What?
@@dirtygarageguy I used to use an aluminum guide rod in my race pistols this completely deadened all spring vibration and changed the entire feel of the pistol when being used. Tremendous difference.
I usually say that my hands feel like "tuning forks". Still do get the vibrating hands syndrome even with bar weights, hmm, also i thought they cancel the vibrations from the road, not the engine, but after i saw your video i guess my logic is probably flawed.
Test it out - rev the bike when stationary
Will do, also thank you for the reply!
No worries dude
Get a caulking gun and put silicone down your bars, it helps to dampen the vibration as well. I was doing long rides on a 660 single and it was murder, ran some silicone down the bars with bar ends as well and it's barely noticeable now.
Fill out the hollow tube of the handle bars with shotgun pellets.
Best way to reduce bar-resonance is to fill your bar with birdshot or some kind of led pellets. Made my Z750 actually rideable without shaking my wrists of after an hour.
no its not, get the correct weight on the end of the bars and you'll all good. This is the difference between having a stab at it and engineering
In the video @3:30 you said "Just keep on putting weights on until the tremory feeling stops". Please tell me how this is engineering and not just having a stab at it.
Engineering it would be calculating the optimal weight for the bar ends for the resonance of the engine in question.
"Please tell me how this is engineering and not just having a stab at it."
I'll tell you how, people I'm talking to are not engineers, otherwise they won't need telling how to do it would they - use your head.
You also said "Best way to reduce bar-resonance is to fill your bar with birdshot"
- its not the BEST way is it? Adding loads of weight to bars in not the best way, specially if you have ally bars, you could cuase them to crack and fail.
Well the best way would probably be to ride an electric bike, that shouldn't have any resonance.
The weight of the washers/birdshot/barends/bar-end mirrors or what not would all end up being quite the same, would it not?
Fatigue 😎
Legend
The Suzuki SV650 S was particularly bad for this, and I should imagine that the SV1000 is similar. When I bought mine from another owner it had been fitted with aluminium bar ends. Absolutely useless and though tightened still managed to vibrate loose. Replaced with heavier solid stainless steel ones that improved but the problem was still there. I therefore purchased the original OEM part. These are about 100 mm long past the bar end with two rubber dampers.one quite deep into the handlebar and the other where the bar end weight joins the handlebar. These act to both hold the bar end in place as the long securing machine scree is tightened but also provides a level of vibration damping. The bar end weight itself was heavier so the overall affect is virtually the removal of the white finger and tiring affect to an acceptable level.
I'm no metallurgist but....
How much difference would aluminium bars make as opposed to steel when it comes to vibration. Steel is more flexible than the equivalent same sized pieced of aluminium so wouldn't it require a lighter weight to have the same effect on vibes as the ali as it would absorb more of the vibes?
I'm just thinking that could you not be defeating the object of getting the lighter bars in the first place if you then had to put a heavier weight on the end that overall, could make them heavier than the originals?
Just a thought....!
Steel is stiffer for the same OD and ID of tube/bar and also denser - which means the speed of sound and the energy transfered is higher. This would translate into a heavier weight requirement - how much? Very good question and this is acoustics and out of my field - however, one of the videos I want to do is covering bar weights and how weight effects the feel.
Great question
like I said, I'm no metallurgist (just interested), I just work with the stuff and don't design! But your "suck it and see" method with the nuts and washers looks like a good one to try on an empty weekend!...
maybe resonance is the word you were after?
that's the one lol
I've just watched Delboys vid before yours Matt and I was a bit perplexed.He lives in cloud cuckoo land .he makes shit up as he goes along.I just feel sorry for the poor fuckers that watch him and don't know any better he needs shutting down for misinforming the public .This is Dangerous Imo
Have you seen my delboy vids? You'll love 'em
man...i need to change the weights on one of my bikes. The woodcraft clip ons have my hands hurting within half an hour.
WAS COLIN FURZE ... reincarnated,, from another reality ? ,,, great channel
white finger..
...hmmm....very similar to why they stick depleted uranium weights in 747 jet wings...
exactly - they use uranium? I understand for the weight but how much do they use?
..upon checking, it seems only the first 500 747's made used DU weights, to the tune of some 1500kg (and they weren't the only planes using them) ~ they moved to tungsten weights in the mid 80's...
damps vibration There saved 6 min of your life unless of course u like rambling white board writers
Could of saved yourself 6 minutes by fucking off!
Enjoyed the video until the casual homophobia at the end …
Homophobia? Lol what a gay thing to say...
That fucking music is AWFUL!