Linear advance guide - Free and easy print quality improvement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2019
- Linear advance is a firmware feature that controls the timing of the extruder separate to the other axes, with a focus on managing pressure inside the nozzle. The result should be more consistent extrusion, especially around corners and other changes of direction. You should also be able to print faster without the quality dropping off so much.
This great feature was introduced into Marlin by Sebastianv650, and once enabled in the firmware, is tuned visually by inspecting a calibration pattern to find the best K value. This guide uses linear advance V1.5.
Please note the K value will differ for various filaments, and each one you want to use should be tuned. You can temporarily turn off linear advance by setting K to zero.
Marlin linear advance reference: marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin...
Calibration pattern generator: marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance...
M900 Marlin reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M900.html
20mm calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
My previous video on calibrating your e-steps, retraction, etc: • How to tune your slice...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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The go to channel for 3D printer advice and training. Well done as always and thank you for putting in the time and effort on great quality tutorials.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I had into linear advance a few months ago and the more I read the more intimidated I became. Also you answered some questions I had concerning conflicts with slicers.
Another well crafted tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to create such well documented content. I’ve found linear advance to be a great aid for better quality at higher speeds. As you say - a low cost investment in time creates better prints!
Nice work! I'm definitely gonna try this!! Thanks for being on the show yesterday, It was great to meet you and it was a blast!
Your videos are by far the most educational on the subject of 3D printing / 3D printers on the web! You take a lot of effort to really dig deep into every subject, then create a lot of content for each video, making every video a truly well illustrated lesson. You are a Teacher with capital T. My utmost respect for that and many compliments!
Absolutely spot on. I have been hoping you would address this subject. Linear advance sounds like such a obtuse subject you made it manageable, as usual. Thanks again for the most useful site on TH-cam or, indeed, the web.
*an obtuse
He needs to add in the obvious but overlooked, _ACTUAL_ nozzle size. If you *think* you have a .4 nozzle but it's really .35, then the lines might be under exaggerated. If it's actually .45, the lines might be over exaggerated. This was a killer for me the first time (under exaggerated for me the first time... so all the lines looked the same).
I have spent so much time to remove these annoying bumps and now the answer is here, thank you for your amazing work, and time you placed into this to share it with us.
I just gotta say that you're my favourite 3D printer tinkering channel.
Straight to the point, well explained, and you bring up topics I didn't even know existed.
Thank you so much for your time and effort!
Been watching your tutorials since I picked up my CE3P in Oct 2020. Your presentation is extremely objective, thorough, and helpful! I would love to see more personality but in any case, keep up the great work!
I made "linear advance" a little project the other day and tuned in a bunch of nozzles, filaments, and retraction settings thanks to you! I now have them waiting activation in my Start G-Code - which is awesome! Godsend of a feature! Prints are looking on-point! Thanks again brother!
I started recompiling marlin while watching this, and now im printing out a before testcube. Looking forward te see the results! Thank you for this video!
Another excellent video. I followed your tutorial and eliminated all of the corner bulging on my prints! Your content has helped me learn a ton about this hobby.
Have been waiting for this since you mentioned it in your last video. THANK YOU!
Absolutely loving your calibration website. Finally getting prints that look good. Thank you.
Quality educational content as always, mate!
Solid real-world improvements - great to see, and another awesome tutorial ! Thank you.
Completed this on my Full Bear Prusa MK3S with a bondtech extruder. Thank you!!!
Great job, I implemented this feature and 3D prints were great !!! Congratulations on your commitment !!! Extremely useful and in an easy to understand language !!!
Have been using Linear Advance for some time now after watching this video. Just changed to the 2.85mm filament and had to watch this video again. Great tut. Keep them coming.
Thanks, another really great guide, after recently fitting a microswiss direct drive and hot end to my ender 5 pro, and first doing an e-step calibration, was tearing my hair out with prints not coming out right - things like corners missing, after also doing this nailed it! The new K value for me was around 0.12 with stock at 0.63, on latest Marlin 2.0.9.1 (at time of writing). Had to disable s curve acceleration which I had turned on in the firmware recently for linear advance to function.
Hello, I know some time has passed but why did you turn S curve acceleration off?
Thanks for this, just got my Ender 3 all tuned up tonight. I have an SK-GO2 on the way also, so can't wait to see how that goes!
You asked for feedback at the end of your video. Hmm, just only feedback isn‘t enough. Your videos are teaching me to understand my printer and to make it better printing parts. You are not afraid to explain complex technical issues and how to fix problems. Realizing that a defect is a problem and not simply taking it for granted is the true quality of your videos. I‘m looking forward to your next video and to the next thing I can learn to make my printer and work more enjoyable. Thank you for your time and love to create this videos.
Thanks for all the effort you put into these things!
Thanks so much for all of your content! Binge-watching your channel over the last week has been TERRIBLE for my productivity, but its been FANTASTIC for being prepared when I buy my first 3D printer in the coming weeks. :-D The only downside has been trying to keep the "latest and greatest" boards, drivers, and mods straight in my head; given that you've got ~3 years of content covering all of the iterative improvements we've seen in this space over that time. :-P
Ender 3, Bltouch and SKR Mini E3 would be the best combination for reliable and futureproof printing.
32bit is the future, as it allows you to keep adding new features like this without running out of storage space and processing power.
Solid info- keep these setting tutorials coming and updated!
Great video as always.
I have not used Linear advance, for now.
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Another great and very informative video Michael. Thank you for that. I'll be working through this at my very next opportunity.
This is a very helpful video, I had looked at the calibration tools page but this was much more helpful in video format than just reading the site. Thanks. It has made quite a noticeable improvement in my printing, at least the test cube.
This is a GREAT video, I had no idea Marlin added this feature to the firmware. I'm super excited now to go update my Marlin code and start experimenting with this for the main materials I print in. I hope it'll help with my TPU prints!
I am going to try this. I am new to 3D printer and I got me a DIY that is a little stubborn. With your guidance of your videos I know I can make it work right. Wish me luck.🤣 Thank You for your teachings 👍🏼
Until now I wasn't quite sure how to do it. With your explanation it seems very easy to do it. Thanks.
Thanks for this man, was getting super annoyed with no sharp corners, and trying to fix it with flow didnt work too well. Gonna give this a try for sure!
These videos are really useful. I have referred to your channel than any other TY channel for information which says a lot. Thanks.
I was curious to see how this might help improve my prints and I really think it's super specific to your hardware and filament. My K setting was very low and I actually didn't really see any print improvements but I could see how certain filaments, hot-ends, and extruder setups would need tuning. My initial print was pretty great with a dual drive extruder on an otherwise stock Ender 3 with what you would think was pretty default PETG print.
Of course, this is after following many of your videos on calibration! I will say that the dual drive extruder is easily the best upgrade you can make to the Ender 3. After running an extruder calibration you'll see a huge difference.
BRUH!!!! You found the coolest thing ever! I was having so many problems with small parts support. This fixed it right up.
Another insanely useful Teaching Tech video. Thank you so much for what you do for this community!
Your videos are easy to understand and genuinely great!
This is seriously such a great tutorial! Going to go through this with my ender 3 with SKR mini e3 V1.2!
hmmmm a huge minus is the extruder being so much louder. I'm not sure if i'm going to stick with it.
Dude, this is exactly what I needed. I'm building a core XY now and I'm going for Max speed without compromising quality. Some great quality vids. Thanks.
What are you basing your coreXY on? A kit or scratch build?
Good overview and tutorial. Very minor nit pick is that linear advance doesn't technically "look ahead" (per 2:48), it biases the filament position based on the current speed of the head. Keep up the good work.
Certainly looking at taking it on - thank you very much for sharing this. :)
Nice easy to follow since my first calibration print looked pretty much as yours did go to print the 2nd round/pattern
Thanks for the tip, definetivley will try this out.
Still working on my bed leveling mastery. Once I have that under control, I will be trying this out across all the SKR boards, and TMC drivers I have.
Well done Michael! Very communicative graphic at 2:10.
I'll definitely try it, but maybe not right away. I'm currently pretty happy with my prints so I'll just enjoy doing stuff :D But thank you very very much, you explained everything in proper detail and all the information is in the video, without any additional questions after watching. Thank you!
Thanks for your detailed Tutorial!
Thanks again, please don’t stop making printing videos
Hello! I followed this guide, and the content is high quality as usual, thanks for that! Sadly i cannot say that i got any real results out of it, the ugly corners got a little bit better but its still present (iam using an ender 3 with direct drive)
I tried k value from 0.02 to 0.44
Good-on-ya, this is fantastic. Definitely doing this!
Thanks so much for making this video! It helped me immensely, and it made a huge difference even though I use a TMC 2208 driver.
If anyone wants to know i use an EZBoard lite , a Bondtech Extruder (I'm from Sweden after all) and a E3D v6 hotend. I'm just about to start my first serious print with the new settings, wish me good luck!
How did it go Peter?
Really great video as always, thanks man!
Thumbs up just for the Mighty Car Mods shirt :)
Truly! I love those guys!
man talk about a stealth chop
@@gammaxana yooooo
Most underrated TH-cam channel with 3D printing content.
Thanks for this explanation I will tried this soon
Thanks for the video! I wanted to add in some with reguarding the TMC2208s. It is possible to use Linear Advance on TMC2208s so as long as you disable StealthChop and enable Square Wave Stepping.
Edit:: I can confirm that Linear Advance works on TMC2208 drivers on the extruder! You have to ensure that Stealthchop is disabled on the extruder and have square wave stepping enabled
I'm about to google it, but jic you have verified methodology; how?
❤ thanks!!!
This one had great impact on my prints It was as significant as deploying a 3DTouch.
Your videos are so great ! I learnt so many things thanks to you !!!! Thank you
Pretty cool that the x1c does this dynamically on every print with the lidar
Thank you so much for digging up that gcode generator for the test strips!! I use this all the time (RepRap: Pressure Advance), but have only ever tuned it by eye. Now I can re-run calibration using this far more useful code generator :D
Btw, the difference is night and day for flexible materials, unlike rigid.
how can you generate a gcode for reprap? i have a duet and want to tune pressure advance but i am failing to make a good test gcode
Thanks Micheal, very helpful, and well presented, cheers
I've been working on my Tronxy X5S that is heavily modded and I'm really excited to get this calibrated with my .8mm nozzle
I'll be running these setup instructions shortly. CR-10s with a few upgrades.
I actually spec’d out the rebuild of my ender 3 with a skr 1.3 and 2208’s on all axis minus E. Just for this reason. Linear advance and linear rail to really crank up the precision in the prints.
Great teaching as always, thanks so much!
You just saved me for a Massive headache! On EACH forum / groups i asked the only answer was: LEVEL YOUR BED!!!
Yeah... people on most forums are completely use- and clueless.
This is awesome, especially for bowden tube users. Thank you.
Thanks for the tutorial!
Will definitely try this feature when I give my Ender3 an overhaul.
Same. Baby needs a rebuild.
How'd it go?
@@donaldviszneki8251 At least for mine, I noticed right away I can screw all four of my bed level knobs halfway, and I achieve tram level. Before I had to screw one all the way while the others not. No gentle tipping in the frame on a flat surface.
@@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork Maybe I"m just being a noob, but it sounds like you're talking about bed leveling, and not about linear advance.
You deserve a medal, mate.
Definitely going to give it a shot.
I used your tutorial on my D-Bot CoreXY build and it was a huge improvement. Probably the biggest improvement for the amount of effort so far on my printer. The one issue I noticed was that the infill was a lot looser and not as strong but that might just require some more tuning. Thanks!
Quality channel, subbed.
Excellent, earned a sub. Thank you!
This should work well for my PETG prints!
""For anyone with Creality silent boards, this is a no-go"
*sounds of thousands of viewers closing tab*
No go for what reason???
@@skialpin9 It has to do with he TMC2208 drivers installed. He mentions it in the beginning of the video
ya but literally look at the comment right above yours and youll see someone who meticulously went through the steps to try to make it work!
Anyone know if this is good with the 2209 silent drivers in the big tree tech silent boards? Nevermind, he tests it with a 2209.
D Johnson It actually doesn’t work nicely w my 2209s and I’m not sure why. It makes an annoying buzzing sound when linear advance is on. It’s a known bug for some users of 2209s and I’m not sure why
Thanks. I'm driving my ender 5 with a duet board so it's not quite the same but i have been struggling to tune this setting. I don't know how this will translate to the duet but I'll certainly have a go. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can try it 'cos I've got a bit of a project going on on it at the moment.
Easy enough to add the K value to any slicers starting script and makes for quick filament changes and k values as well. I didn't get much better results on my newer CR-10 (12 months old or less) and bowden setup mind you. I'd need to see if the board is any different from the old one they used but just assumed it was the same with the same drivers.
It is very easy to understand and setup, just take your time and read everything :-) Its a s easy as Michael shows it to be.
It depends A LOT on the filament so you have to change your K-value for different filament types.
as stated in the comments!
Very nice video, thank you!
I also switched my Anycubic i3 to 2208s for quieter printing but I will try to setup LIN ADV anyways (running Marlin 2.x)
Oh, and merry christmas! 🎅
Although, as a noob going through your calibration site for the first time ever, the section on linear advance is the hardest to figure out. While all of the other sections up to this point were spoon-fed, the linear advance section (which seems to me to be extremely imporant for good prints) isn't nearly as robust. I know the video is supposed to walk you through the process, but unlike other calibration steps, this one is missing the baby steps I've been spoiled with so far. May have to skip this calibration step until I have more understanding. Thanks again for all of your hard work on this.
Holy shit... this cleaned up my print so much!!! Thank you!!!!!
So at first I thought the issue was my fault, for tightening the bed belt too much. But after loosening it a bit, nothing changed.
Only on the right side face of the Y-axis am I having this issue now for adjusting linear advance. This issue was never present in any of my other cubes till this change.
The issue is only from the bottom of the letter Y, and from the top of the Y and up. That the right corners bulge now. ONLY on the right side face of the Y-axis though. Every other corner is perfect. All the bolts on the printer are all tight except for the rods for the Z-axis so the rods can move around. I can't seem to find anything so far online about this issue. Other than adjusting the bed belt tension. Which I did.
I did this on my printer. I didn't read any warnings about using a 2208 in stand alone with lin adv enabled. I'm glad I didn't hear about these warnings because I have 2208's in stand alone with lin adv and it works great. I haven't not tinkered a whole bunch but I followed the same instruction link that you showed from marlin, I got my K value zeroed in and have nothing but good things to say about lin adv. I say don't be afraid to try it regardless of your setup, the worse thing that will happen is re-commenting a single line to turn it off again.
I agree. I've not read of any permanent damage to machines so worth a shot. The firmware is always being improved.so the 2208 issue might be a thing of the past.
I did try the same thing - 2208 on extruder in legacy(standalone) mode. No changes in firmware (but mine defaulted to S curve off). The calibration went fine, I got a nice line with a K0.2, added it to the firmware. Everything was working, so I started a small print and the extruder just stopped after a few (BEAUTIFUL and SQUARE cornered) layers. So be aware, it might just stop suddenly. I think I'm going to swap the E driver for an LV8729, set it for 1/64 microstepping and recalibrate my K value...
Glad to be supporting you on Patreon.
Can we use this on creality 4.2.7 new boards please
Awesome video!!! I love how you easily explain things and make it so attainable :) I have a Prusa Mk3s and an Anycubic i3 Mega. Question... is LA available in the Prusa latest FW 3.8? I'm going to start doing this on the Anycubic i3 Mega as I have a custom FW installed with Marlin 1.1.9. Keep up the awesome work Michael!!!
Thank you. I just set up an Ender 3 v2 2 months ago and now I can print in good quality.
@@mkalbunyo yes V4.2.2
@@mkalbunyo if you can't save the settings. You have to go on marlin firmware and enable (Linear Advance) If you can't send M900 K0.11 or what ever value you have.
@@mkalbunyo ok😞 sorry for you
@@mkalbunyo try to put a new firmware from TH3D and setup on (Configuration.h line 220 Linear_Advance)
I followed your video and tuned my printer Lin Advance. Thanks. please keep it up. please create one video on separate stealthchop settings for individual axis of printer.
For TMC drivers you also need to set MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE to 2 in Marlin, otherwise TMC driver on the extruder may suddenly stop in the middle of the print even in SpreadCycle.
Linear Advance is OK for "direct drive" extruder, but when enabled on the geared extruder like Titan or BMG it produces too much noise and vibration, especially if high acceleration is set. I tried it on my Kossel and Ultimaker printers with 3000 and 2000 mm/s2 acceleration respectively, and it was very loud. Maybe I will enable LA if I put my printers in another room or something.
Thanks I will try that when I get back
A master class!!
Thanks really helped... although 13hr prints are now coming out at 19hr approx... so still a little tinkering to find out why
Awesome content!
Great content, thanks!
Dude! You are the only one who made sense about corner bulging.
Just installed Bigtreetech Mother board, and TFT screen, on my original mother board corners with the same G-code were Ok... After swap got huge bulging in the corners.
Found out this option is ON, but the K=0 in settings.
Although, after finding my K factor... Print time increased, instead of the 30 min 38 min. Still have some bulging in corners, but less and more consistent...
Don't know... maybe will cancel that. I think it works much better with Direct Drive... not with bowden...
Just trying this feature now on my first print, thanks for explaining it, I run a bowden setup with a E3d titan extruder and my first observation is the extruder is a a lot noisier with the micro retracts occurring on corners and areas of small infill etc.
...and then I saw the comments below, so will try enabling classic jerk after this print finishes and re-try
enabling classic Jerk definitely fixed the extruder noise issue!
Wow, thank you!
The Chopped T-Shirt earns my respect, 2nd to the gold standard technical info! May your prints not go "In The Bin" 🤣🤣🤣
tmc2208: otp e driver to spreadcycle. add
#define TMC_ADV() { stepperE0.en_spreadCycle(true); }
#define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 2
should work. also there probably is a way to set min pulse to E only, but probably is required for xy
I spent WAY too much time trying to get a reasonable result on my Bowden Ender 3. Several months later I set up the direct drive mod, and BOOM linear advance is suddenly useful.
Quick sidenote for the TMC2208 people - these stepper drivers are supported in the newer Marlin Versions. Running my Ender 5 pro with a creality V4.2.2 silent board with TMC 2208 drivers with the "bugfix Marlin 2.1.X" and it works like a charm!
Way interesting! I was looking for a reason why my cubes always had bumpy edges, and found this gem browsing through your older vids (started 3D printing with Ender 3 pro a couple of weeks ago)
Now to figure out how to do this Marlin thing... I gather it's a console to adjust settings on your printer. cable connect + terminal software on your PC? :D
THANKS!