Started repairs on my 1973 CT3 175 a few weeks ago. This video was my answer to prayer. You answered so many questions on the shift linkage. You are an excellent teacher.
Thanks Mark, just subscribed to you also, glad some of these old videos were of some help. Always nice to hear from fellow youtubers. I will be watching you. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Dale you're THE MAN for putting together all these videos and taking the time to explain things in detail. I recently inherited my wifes grandfathers ct3 and I'm in the process of restoring it to its former glory and these videos have helped immensely!
Thank you, I am so glad you are finding some helpful content here. The 175 Enduros are by far my favorite early Yamaha. Good luck with your project, check back often because the early enduros are pretty much the mainstay of my channel. There will be more on these bikes.
Thanks Dean, about to settle in to watch you, Carls and Jacks latest video. Been pretty busy all week. Can you believe I forgot to change the mag side seal on the last video, I put the stator and flywheel back on and didn't change the seal. Got back at the work bench and saw the seal laying there. Gettin old is frustrating.
Thanks Peter, yes, I have heard that term also, could just call it a lock washer because at the end of the day, that is what it does. Thanks for watching.
Hi Dale just wanted to say thank you for the very detailed videos always a joy to watch. I did have a couple questions what oil are you normally running in these clutch cases. And secondly I’ve noticed some of the pistons for these bikes have port holes on the piston sleeves while some don’t. My bike that I’m building actually has AT1 cases with a CT1 cylinder bored .25 over. Looking forward to hearing back from you and keep up the awesome videos. Dave
Hi Dave, thank you I appreciate the kind words. I normally run a 10w30w petroleum-based oil in the clutch side cover. I prefer a non-detergent oil; you can find that in racing oils. Non detergent doesn't foam like detergent oils do. But that's just me, it will not matter. Use either one. Just don't use a synthetic oil. The early AT1/CT1's 1969/1970, were piston port inducted, no piston windows (ports). The AT-2/3, and CT-2/3 1972 up, were reed valve inducted, they have windows (ports) in the intake side of the piston skirts. Sounds like you have a great project, hope all goes well with your build, glad you are getting some good info from the videos, let me know how your build goes. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions. Thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
Thanks for the speedy reply I have a brand new AT1 piston I could send you if you need one I don’t have any use for it. And no one here has one of these bikes. I made a mistake when ordering off eBay between the CT1 and AT1 while buying multiple parts. So if you need one let me know I have no use for it and I’m not going to waste time selling it. Figure it’s the least I could do for you sharing all your knowledge. Also not sure if your aware of them but I got a great gasket kit from a company called Disaster motors for this bike. Had all the seals I needed to get on my project. Thanks again Dale for the amazing videos and keeping these things running. Dave
@@davidboyte4340 Thanks Dave, I haven't heard of Disaster motors, I will look them up. Online seller, or eBay? Sure, if you want to send the piston along, I could certainly find a use for it. I do a lot of these bikes as you know. If that's what you want to do, shoot me an email at dsweger@bresnan.net and I will give you, my address. Good luck with your project and let me know how it turns out. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have a problem. Thanks for watching the channel.
Hey Dale, I just found you on YT. I love your depth and thorough knowledge. I'm currently doing 2 DT3s from ground up. My cousin and I grew up with these Yamaha's and these 2 250's will be our first time back on these bikes in decades. One item I find troublesome on the DT3s is the aftermarket crank seals they are selling are NOT double spring...they are double lip single spring. The OE seals even have what looks like a Viton inner sealing surface on the premix side. Yamaha doesn't have parts for the DT3's like I see for the CT3. What are your thoughts on the crank seals and do you know of any aftermarket OE accurate seals? Thanks Dave. Ron.
Hi Ron, wow that is going to be a fantastic project, restoring not one but two DT-3's. Lots of fun going to be had doing that project. I don't ride like I use to, but still throw a leg over every chance I get. Only problem is my brain says go fast and my body says slow down. Just the way it is, I guess. I know what you're talking about with the seals, it concerns me too, but to the best of my knowledge the seals are only available as you describe. Some folks are finding NOS seals and paying the big bucks for them, but they are 50 years old. I think I would rather take my chances with the new materials available to the seal makers now. It could be they have determined that it is no longer needed to have both springs. Really if you think about it, the clutch side of the seal doesn't have any pressure against it. Only the crank side has to maintain a seal. I guess I really don't have any reason at this point to worry about it. I am building a 72 Yamaha 250 MX right now and I am using the aftermarket seals. But if I run on to some that have the double spring, I will be buying them, right now I just don't know of any. Hey good luck with your project and have fun. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hi Dale, I need a bit of direction/ knowledge. As stated before a bought my old ct3 back from an ex employee, he thrashed it and I wanted to bring to back to its glory. Well today as I’m assembling the top end I noticed the white cover above the countershaft sprocket looked suspect, I removed it and found the end of the shaft busted flush with the case, no thrust washer and no retaining clip. I don’t know if it can run like this and have never split cases before. Any advise? Thanks.
No I would not run it. That is the shift drum. It is held in by the C clip under that plastic cover. The cases will have to be split to replace the shift drum. You should be able to find a used one on ebay for just a few dollars.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks Dale, the master link being held together baling wire leads me to believe it threw the chain and destroyed the cove and end of shaft. I most likely will find someone to split the cases. Any leads to someone in nor cal that would be reliable is appreciated. Thanks again.
@@davidludwig6 Sorry David, I don't know anyone in your area. Check around at some of the local bike shops, they may not want to do it, but may know people in the area like me that work on the old bikes.
Quick question dale is it possible to fit the full kickstart mechanism with the clutch basket still in place or is it impossible to tension the spring?
Hi there, I don't think it possible. I have snaked a couple in. But most of the time you have to remove the kick idler gear to get it positioned correctly with the guide spring in the pocket. It's only about 20 minutes to remove the clutch and reinstall. It's a good time to inspect all that. Tensioning the spring is the easy part. Getting the kick shaft and guide spring in properly is the part I'm not sure you can do. My recommendation is pull the clutch.
Oh yes sir, the number is 93210-180A6-00. Yes, I have used those seal kits before, in my opinion you are better off just buying the OEM seals from Yamaha, they really are not expensive and readily available. But you are wise to install that O-ring....it is part of the entire seal. Hey thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
I have spoken about that in many of my videos, there just are not any to be had in my neck of the woods. The last one I got, the guy told me on the phone it was some kind of trail bike. Got over there and it was an Elsinore. I know I know a two stroke, took it anyway. LOL
@@montana2strokeracer ;-) I'm a yamaha enduro purist myself. I picked up my first XR75 KO, 1973, 20 years ago at a yard sale for $100 and it was in good shape, fully complete. Even had the front and side number plates still on it. like my 7 or 8 yamahas, I got the XR bug too and now have 7 or 8 of them. It's a sickness I know you understand LOL. Only problem with XR's is finding parts at an affordable price. You talk about the rising price of enduro parts...XR75 parts are just insane! Hell, the tank on my KO is bringing $600 now!!
Started repairs on my 1973 CT3 175 a few weeks ago. This video was my answer to prayer. You answered so many questions on the shift linkage. You are an excellent teacher.
Thanks Mark, just subscribed to you also, glad some of these old videos were of some help. Always nice to hear from fellow youtubers. I will be watching you. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Dale you're THE MAN for putting together all these videos and taking the time to explain things in detail. I recently inherited my wifes grandfathers ct3 and I'm in the process of restoring it to its former glory and these videos have helped immensely!
Thank you, I am so glad you are finding some helpful content here. The 175 Enduros are by far my favorite early Yamaha. Good luck with your project, check back often because the early enduros are pretty much the mainstay of my channel. There will be more on these bikes.
A study in the patience and care required to build a reliable engine. Always good to watch Dale.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, about to settle in to watch you, Carls and Jacks latest video. Been pretty busy all week. Can you believe I forgot to change the mag side seal on the last video, I put the stator and flywheel back on and didn't change the seal. Got back at the work bench and saw the seal laying there. Gettin old is frustrating.
@@montana2strokeracer we all have 'senior moments' Dale. It's just part of the process.
Best wishes, Dean.
Another great video, Dale. That concave/convex washer is also called a Belleville washer (amongst other names). Cheers!
Thanks Peter, yes, I have heard that term also, could just call it a lock washer because at the end of the day, that is what it does. Thanks for watching.
Excellent job dale , I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Thanks Larry appreciate you being here
great job as always dale keep it going
Thanks Mark, appreciate you following along
Coming along nicely brother. Thanks for sharing brother
Getting there
quick draw Cain, your the man!!
He's quick for sure
Hi Dale just wanted to say thank you for the very detailed videos always a joy to watch. I did have a couple questions what oil are you normally running in these clutch cases. And secondly I’ve noticed some of the pistons for these bikes have port holes on the piston sleeves while some don’t. My bike that I’m building actually has AT1 cases with a CT1 cylinder bored .25 over. Looking forward to hearing back from you and keep up the awesome videos.
Dave
Hi Dave, thank you I appreciate the kind words. I normally run a 10w30w petroleum-based oil in the clutch side cover. I prefer a non-detergent oil; you can find that in racing oils. Non detergent doesn't foam like detergent oils do. But that's just me, it will not matter. Use either one. Just don't use a synthetic oil.
The early AT1/CT1's 1969/1970, were piston port inducted, no piston windows (ports). The AT-2/3, and CT-2/3 1972 up, were reed valve inducted, they have windows (ports) in the intake side of the piston skirts.
Sounds like you have a great project, hope all goes well with your build, glad you are getting some good info from the videos, let me know how your build goes. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions. Thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
Thanks for the speedy reply I
have a brand new AT1 piston I could send you if you need one I don’t have any use for it. And no one here has one of these bikes. I made a mistake when ordering off eBay between the CT1 and AT1 while buying multiple parts. So if you need one let me know I have no use for it and I’m not going to waste time selling it. Figure it’s the least I could do for you sharing all your knowledge. Also not sure if your aware of them but I got a great gasket kit from a company called Disaster motors for this bike. Had all the seals I needed to get on my project. Thanks again Dale for the amazing videos and keeping these things running.
Dave
@@davidboyte4340 Thanks Dave, I haven't heard of Disaster motors, I will look them up. Online seller, or eBay? Sure, if you want to send the piston along, I could certainly find a use for it. I do a lot of these bikes as you know. If that's what you want to do, shoot me an email at dsweger@bresnan.net and I will give you, my address. Good luck with your project and let me know how it turns out. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have a problem. Thanks for watching the channel.
Howdy Dale, and the rest of the gang.
Hey Larry, good to see you.
Hey Dale, I just found you on YT. I love your depth and thorough knowledge. I'm currently doing 2 DT3s from ground up. My cousin and I grew up with these Yamaha's and these 2 250's will be our first time back on these bikes in decades. One item I find troublesome on the DT3s is the aftermarket crank seals they are selling are NOT double spring...they are double lip single spring. The OE seals even have what looks like a Viton inner sealing surface on the premix side. Yamaha doesn't have parts for the DT3's like I see for the CT3. What are your thoughts on the crank seals and do you know of any aftermarket OE accurate seals? Thanks Dave. Ron.
Hi Ron, wow that is going to be a fantastic project, restoring not one but two DT-3's. Lots of fun going to be had doing that project. I don't ride like I use to, but still throw a leg over every chance I get. Only problem is my brain says go fast and my body says slow down. Just the way it is, I guess.
I know what you're talking about with the seals, it concerns me too, but to the best of my knowledge the seals are only available as you describe. Some folks are finding NOS seals and paying the big bucks for them, but they are 50 years old. I think I would rather take my chances with the new materials available to the seal makers now. It could be they have determined that it is no longer needed to have both springs. Really if you think about it, the clutch side of the seal doesn't have any pressure against it. Only the crank side has to maintain a seal. I guess I really don't have any reason at this point to worry about it. I am building a 72 Yamaha 250 MX right now and I am using the aftermarket seals. But if I run on to some that have the double spring, I will be buying them, right now I just don't know of any. Hey good luck with your project and have fun. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
There’s a tech service bulletin regarding the kickstart shaft shim/washer in the back of the yellow Yamaha service manual. I can send? Screenshot.
Hey Philip, thanks. I have it in my manual.
Hi Dale, I need a bit of direction/ knowledge. As stated before a bought my old ct3 back from an ex employee, he thrashed it and I wanted to bring to back to its glory. Well today as I’m assembling the top end I noticed the white cover above the countershaft sprocket looked suspect, I removed it and found the end of the shaft busted flush with the case, no thrust washer and no retaining clip. I don’t know if it can run like this and have never split cases before. Any advise? Thanks.
No I would not run it. That is the shift drum. It is held in by the C clip under that plastic cover. The cases will have to be split to replace the shift drum. You should be able to find a used one on ebay for just a few dollars.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks Dale, the master link being held together baling wire leads me to believe it threw the chain and destroyed the cove and end of shaft. I most likely will find someone to split the cases. Any leads to someone in nor cal that would be reliable is appreciated. Thanks again.
@@davidludwig6 Sorry David, I don't know anyone in your area. Check around at some of the local bike shops, they may not want to do it, but may know people in the area like me that work on the old bikes.
I'm late, I'm late, said the rabbit.
Its that ocean again, shucks!
Quick question dale is it possible to fit the full kickstart mechanism with the clutch basket still in place or is it impossible to tension the spring?
Hi there, I don't think it possible. I have snaked a couple in. But most of the time you have to remove the kick idler gear to get it positioned correctly with the guide spring in the pocket. It's only about 20 minutes to remove the clutch and reinstall. It's a good time to inspect all that. Tensioning the spring is the easy part. Getting the kick shaft and guide spring in properly is the part I'm not sure you can do. My recommendation is pull the clutch.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks dale great videos
Do you have a part number, or a size for that crankshaft o ring? The seal kit I ordered did not include it.
Oh yes sir, the number is 93210-180A6-00. Yes, I have used those seal kits before, in my opinion you are better off just buying the OEM seals from Yamaha, they really are not expensive and readily available. But you are wise to install that O-ring....it is part of the entire seal. Hey thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
You must not like Hondas Dale LOL. I don't see much about them in your videos. I need to send you an XR75 engine to rebuild and make videos on. ;-)
I have spoken about that in many of my videos, there just are not any to be had in my neck of the woods. The last one I got, the guy told me on the phone it was some kind of trail bike. Got over there and it was an Elsinore. I know I know a two stroke, took it anyway. LOL
@@montana2strokeracer ;-) I'm a yamaha enduro purist myself. I picked up my first XR75 KO, 1973, 20 years ago at a yard sale for $100 and it was in good shape, fully complete. Even had the front and side number plates still on it. like my 7 or 8 yamahas, I got the XR bug too and now have 7 or 8 of them. It's a sickness I know you understand LOL. Only problem with XR's is finding parts at an affordable price. You talk about the rising price of enduro parts...XR75 parts are just insane! Hell, the tank on my KO is bringing $600 now!!
First
You the man Cain