Vintage Yamaha enduro crank seal replacement, CT-3, 175 Enduro
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2024
- In this video I replace a magneto side crankshaft seal on a Yamaha CT-3 175 Enduro. I use a homemade slide hammer to remove. Then install the new one using RTV sealant, punch and a hammer.
im convinced you must keep Dales channel on 24/7. your the man!
I think the notification bell goes off first in Georgia.
For sure, great mechanic! I'm doing crank seals on my 77 Yamaha IT175. First time doing them on a dirt bike. The bike being worked on is very similar to my internals.
Amazing shop w/ amazing memorabilia! Boss 302, John Deere, Bridgeport, Torino, degree wheel... You are living right, Bro!
Thanks William, yes have been into all kinds of stuff over the years. Kind of settling down with the old bikes these days. Thats what retirement is all about. Enjoying the good life. Thanks for stopping by.
LOL, I was wondering about the seal and thought I'd missed it. You're in good company! The cylinder was something else. Wow.
Thanks, buddy nope completely forgot it. Yes, that cylinder is among the worst I have seen and still running.
Learned a lot watching this Dale. Another master class! Thank you!
It's really beating me up Graham, these things aren't supposed to be this difficult.
@@montana2strokeracer I haven't refurbished many bikes, but had one that fought me every inch. I can relate. Hang in there.
Another recipe for success Dale. I hope that it cleans up for the +50 piston. That poor little thing was flogged to death.
Best wishes, Dean.
You are right Dean, flogged for sure, little dirt ingestion didn't help either. Thanks for hanging out with me,
great job as always dale keep it going
Thanks Mark, glad to have you along.
Dale, thanks so much for all the great info. Especially, the part numbers for hard to find hardware. Your channel is the best of its kind on the web, thanks again for posting all the valuable info.
Thanks Jeff, I like to share when I know of something that will help others in the hobby, sure appreciate you hanging out in the shop with me.
I have been using my #2 JIS drivers on Philips screws also. I have found that they grip the Philips screws better then a Philips screw driver does. Seems like they don't cam out as easily. I believe the JIS is a far better design.
Think your right Steve, I never thought to try one till the other day. It fit exceptionally well.
Hi Dale new watcher here ...love your videos very informative...any idea what the torque settings are for the clutch hub nut and clutch plate bolts are?My manuel tells about everthing but that,...but at least it told me the torque setting is for the primary gear...thanks.oh its for a 1976 kd 125 A2 ..nice bike..
Hey Logan, I do not know those specs, but usually the manual will give you generic specs for the size of bolts and nuts, the Yamaha and Suzuki manuals have a chart for the sizes. I bet Kawasaki does also.
thank goodness for McMaster-Carr and Grainger.
Yep, good sources for hardware type items. Did you get one of those nut drivers, I bought another one, it came out of Las Vegas.
@@montana2strokeracer not yet, but soon. just one of those very useful tools that are available nowadays. remember in 1959 i took a Mustang scooter to a indenpendent dealer in Tucson for work all they had as pliers and a screw driver,really chewed up all my fittings was i pissed!
Problem I’m having with my clutch is disengaging but it’s not disengaging but try to put it in gear. It just stalls it just jams in. I don’t know if I got a broken spring or what maybe you know what I can look at
Thanks Dale , Walt
Walt, it sounds like the bike has sit for a long time. When this happens, the clutch plates stick together. I would pop the side cover and pull the 5 screws and springs and try to pry the plates apart, then clean and oil good and reassemble.
@@montana2strokeracer I took the cover off and your right only the first plate is separating.
I’ll take it apart tomorrow.
WHAT should I use to clean them?
Thanks Walt.
I use mineral sprits and a stiff brush.
someday you need to show how you organize all the different parts. i for one cant find stuff and usually need to re order and of course eventually find the part. guess im just a sloppy person.
Nope, I too am a sloppy person. My spare parts are in a box...every time I need something I have to dump the whole box, go through everything and put it back in. At least I know it's in the box.
@@montana2strokeracer sounds familiar! you shop looks neat and organized, i for one just wonder how my family will feel when i passaway someday and they have to deal with the mess. maybe call the American Picker Show!
Thanks for sharing brother.
Your welcome Cain, any new bikes out your way?
@@montana2strokeracer not yet
what is the puller that you used?
Yes, it's a homemade slide hammer, very easy to make from junk metal found in the shop.
Hi sir, is there any way to find if the seal is broken without dismantling? Any symptoms..
Hi there, best way is to perform a leak down test. But generally, if you have an air leak the engine will rev on its own or the spark plug will look very lean.
@@montana2strokeracer thankyou👍
high milage or poor oiling cause the cylinder scoreing?
High mileage, and dirt ingestion. I believe the oil pump is working, we will see when its assembled.
no O-ring on the left crank seal?
No sir, only on the right, that's to seal off the spacer.
think we all felt you just edited out the right crank seal install, never dawned on me you screwed up! LOL
Yep, I screw up more than you can imagine. I couldn't believe I did that though.
correction left side crank seal.
Yep, got Ya.
First
Holy cow, quick draw!
@@montana2strokeracer your quick,watch Buster Scruggs Videos on youtube if you want to see a fast draw!