Super job Matt, was sure glad you pulled the inside shield off the clutch bearing. I think they leave the other one on because of turbulence behind the clutch. Regardless great job. Thanks for the shout out.
Thank you Dale! I tried to copy a lot of the stuff you did in your video series on that CT3 😆 . Glad it all looked good to you! I almost left that cover on. Luckily I ask a lot of questions as I go and my buddy mentioned that I should remove it.
Really enjoyed the video good job that motor looks Primo I’ll paint it up. Look forward to you getting it on the bike and putting it on the trail work belongs lol. Look forward to your next video
Hey Matt, I went back and looked at your clutch build, you should go back and repack those plates ending with a steel plate before you put the clutch cover on. You ended with a fiber; the clutch will slip that way. You probably got that from one of my videos, where I did the same thing and had the same problem. The Yamaha manual shows one picture ending with the fiber plate and the opposing engineers drawing of the assembled clutch pack ending with a steel. That is how it should be done. Last plate in should be steel. Your clutch will operate perfect now. Sorry the manual got me too.
Hey Dale, finally got some time to change the order of those plates and unfortunately it’s still slipping. I double checked the clutch adjustment on the main adjuster down in the side cover and also the cable. I watched your video on that too. Do you think my springs may be to blame? They did check out when I measured them, but that’s for a stock CT3. This bike hits hard on the power band and that’s when I notice it most. Can I use springs from a later model DT175MX? This one had 5 springs and I know the later models have 6. Thanks again for the help!
The only thing that l didn't see, was the crank lubed before it was pulled by the tool, sounded a bit sqeaky? Interesting what Bob said about that shielded bearing, when you pulled one shield off was the cage full of grease or any lube?
@@bananabrooks3836 lol I just happened to have my phone on me. Yeah I lubed everything. I had to eliminate some video just to keep it close to an hour so I may have cut some of those little details.
I may have cut it out of the video just to try and keep it close to an hour but I saturated the big end bearings with assembly lube. She was primed and good to go. Thanks for chiming in! I’ll take all the suggestions I can get! 👍
@@Garage2Trail yes I thought you may have done the main bearings but the rod bearing on the crank end I'm pretty sure was just left. I find it's better to use two-stroke oil on the main bearings so that you don't possibly foul a spark plug when you first get it running from burning off the assembly lube.
@JyveKilla I just got her running today. Started after only a few kicks and idled! I’m pretty excited to ride it so I hope to have that video out this weekend. Thanks for watching!
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Yep Dale is the man. He did the bore on my 1970 cb175. A great guy. Has lots of experience with them.
He makes some great videos too!
@@Garage2Trail And can ride a bike pretty well so I have been told 😀
@@Garage2Trail100% entertaining as well.
Great work! Your videos keep getting better and better.
Thanks man, I really appreciate the feedback!
Super job Matt, was sure glad you pulled the inside shield off the clutch bearing. I think they leave the other one on because of turbulence behind the clutch. Regardless great job. Thanks for the shout out.
Thank you Dale! I tried to copy a lot of the stuff you did in your video series on that CT3 😆 . Glad it all looked good to you! I almost left that cover on. Luckily I ask a lot of questions as I go and my buddy mentioned that I should remove it.
Really enjoyed the video good job that motor looks Primo I’ll paint it up. Look forward to you getting it on the bike and putting it on the trail work belongs lol. Look forward to your next video
Thank you, I really appreciate it! I can’t wait to get this bike going. It won’t be long now.
Great video m8 it will help people do this job m8👍
Thanks Andy!
Hey Matt, I went back and looked at your clutch build, you should go back and repack those plates ending with a steel plate before you put the clutch cover on. You ended with a fiber; the clutch will slip that way. You probably got that from one of my videos, where I did the same thing and had the same problem. The Yamaha manual shows one picture ending with the fiber plate and the opposing engineers drawing of the assembled clutch pack ending with a steel. That is how it should be done. Last plate in should be steel. Your clutch will operate perfect now. Sorry the manual got me too.
Thank you Dale! I appreciate the heads up…I will definitely take that apart again. The manual did get me lol
Hey Dale, finally got some time to change the order of those plates and unfortunately it’s still slipping. I double checked the clutch adjustment on the main adjuster down in the side cover and also the cable. I watched your video on that too. Do you think my springs may be to blame? They did check out when I measured them, but that’s for a stock CT3. This bike hits hard on the power band and that’s when I notice it most. Can I use springs from a later model DT175MX? This one had 5 springs and I know the later models have 6. Thanks again for the help!
@montana2strokeracer
Looks great brother
Thank you!
Great job .did you say that was mx cylinder and head only 1 spark pug hole
Yeah, apparently 74 they had DT175MX models. Maybe they were just known as “175MX” though
The only thing that l didn't see, was the crank lubed before it was pulled by the tool, sounded a bit sqeaky?
Interesting what Bob said about that shielded bearing, when you pulled one shield off was the cage full of grease or any lube?
Nahh I had assembly lube on it. It’s a tight fit!
@@Garage2Trailha, you were quick responding!and the bearing?
@@bananabrooks3836 lol I just happened to have my phone on me. Yeah I lubed everything. I had to eliminate some video just to keep it close to an hour so I may have cut some of those little details.
fyi you overlooked pre-lubeing the big end and the mains with 2 stroke oil. itll be fine but its good practice like all the other oil you added
I may have cut it out of the video just to try and keep it close to an hour but I saturated the big end bearings with assembly lube. She was primed and good to go. Thanks for chiming in! I’ll take all the suggestions I can get! 👍
@@Garage2Trail yes I thought you may have done the main bearings but the rod bearing on the crank end I'm pretty sure was just left. I find it's better to use two-stroke oil on the main bearings so that you don't possibly foul a spark plug when you first get it running from burning off the assembly lube.
@JyveKilla I just got her running today. Started after only a few kicks and idled! I’m pretty excited to ride it so I hope to have that video out this weekend. Thanks for watching!
@@Garage2Trail I'm rebuilding a dt250a engine over the next few days and you are motivating me so thanks for the content
@@JyveKilla awesome, glad to inspire! 😆 it’s a very rewarding process to complete I must say. Enjoy!
Need a new kick starter as the stop piece has moved. You can see the case damage because of that. Dale has a whole video on that.
Yup, that’s correct. I replace it in this video. Dales videos were a big help!
How long did it take for you to put the engine back together
I worked on it an hour or two after work over a weeks time or so. Some time was waiting on parts.
What year was an mx 175?
I was able to find stuff from a ‘74 model