I was going to take my JR kit to a shop to have it installed on my BRZ, but your video was so detailed I was able to install it myself yesterday! (changing my oil was about the most complicated thing I knew how to do on my car until now 😅) I probably watched this video a few hundred times through the process and it's now on the car with no issues. Thanks so much for your content!
Thanks for making this video. I went with the combination Jackson Racing radiator and oil cooler/heater. Just a bigger version of what is already on the car. So far so good.
Well done. You're an excellent teacher. Use only enough words to communicate the idea and you don't make mistakes with left and right and up and down. When you do some of your testing and I'm very much interested in the oil temperature while you are driving around town in 80 degree weather. Of course the oil pen at the track. Dictated and not reviewed
Thanks! I already have the data from the track, video coming soon. I didn't do much for daily driving before/after, but I can always include what the temps look like on a drive to work or something.
38 seconds ago.....so cool and so is the install. still boggles my mind why a car hyped for track use doesn't come with a larger factory cooler than the miniscule heat exchanger. cool on Justin, cool onnnn..... 😎
To be fair the OEM heat exchanger does a decent job of keeping oil temps down (not low, but down). The gen1 cars had typically 25-30° higher oil temps on track, in my experience. That said the "real" oil cooler is definitely worth it if you're doing more than a couple track days/races a year 👍
Hi Justin, Great content video. Why did u decide about oil cooler when your oil temp on track are 250 degrees max, wich is ideal oil temp for engine work?
Love my JR kit on my FRS, my only gripe is their hoses. With such tight quarters I think Steel/Nylon AN lines is more appropriate my original lines almost rubbed through to the point of a leak. I ended up upgrading to true AN fittings with steel braid for both lines.
Yea agree, that was one my internal debates between the JR cooler and the Greddy cooler (which has much nicer hoses). I couldn't justify the large cost difference to go with the Greddy though. With the JR hoses oriented properly, as I adjusted them in the video, I think they will be fine.
@@TheBTRGarage Totally agree on that one the Greddy is way too expensive for what it is. Could easily of been my routing too but way I see it it's no biggy and something I wanted to learn anyways, worked out in the end! 👍
Awesome video. I’ve watched through most of your GR86 videos so far and I’m curious what you think of the oil pan baffle kits that are becoming available? Worth it for street and some track use? Any warranty concerns? I plan on keeping mine stock engine-wise but am considering a few ‘reliability’ mods for peace of mind.
I've thought about adding a baffle. But, someone has done some extensive testing with one on a gen2 car and it did little to nothing to improve oil pressure, especially is the lowest points. So, that data kind of put it further back on my list of upgrades.
@@TheBTRGarage I've been reading similar thoughts from folks like Killer B and others who track heavily. These pans are cheap enough to where even if they only help slightly, I feel like it may be worth doing while the lower pan is already removed. I see some references to the GR86 Cup/series cars running baffled pans, and that STI makes their own pan (I can't find it anywhere, though) - but overall yeah, not a 10/10 'everyone must do this' upgrade from the data that is available. I'm still waiting for my name to come up in my local dealer's queue and I'm actively searching for cars while I wait. I've already narrowed down day 1 mods like brakes/tires. Only outstanding questions are about the oiling situation. Seems like reasonable/ideal steps to me are: - drop lower oil pan and clean up the RTV in the pan and pickup - switch to 5w30 for track use and switch back to 0w20 for winter street driving - keep it topped up frequently - monitor oil temps closely and if needed get an oil cooler - consider an air-oil separator kit - investigate logging oil pressure (mentioned this in a comment on another video) - consider the baffled pan if I see regular concerning dips in oil pressure
@@chasewd5117 Prep sounds all good to me. I'd consider running the OEM Michelin PS4's, assuming you're getting the top trim model, they are pretty decent.
Be careful on the oil lines, I installed this and didn’t know the longer oil line was rubbing on top of the frame next to the windshield fluid reservoir. Spotted it and taped it before it wore through
The same thing happened to me but unfortunately I didn't notice it until it was too late. Oil went everywhere and I thought the engine was gone for good. I replaced the longer oil line and thank goodness the engine was fine. I'm also noticing that the oil sandwich plate, even when tightened to 35, will still slowly rotates counter clockwise which will eventually cause the oil line to hit the frame again. I have taped the frame area with gorilla tape but I'll still keep my eyes on it. Maybe I will get stainless steel braided oil lines in the future tho.
I know this is a late comment but I read through every owner's manual for every car I own in its entirety. For those pop clips with the flathead groove in it, according to the BRZ owner's manual, you should twist the center piece with a flathead screwdriver about 90 degrees and then it should come out like a normal pop clip. You do NOT need a specialized tool. In order to reinsert the clip, you should just pop it back in and twist it back to how it was. Edit: for the BRZ owner's manual it is on page 341 "Maintenance Tips"
Sure, you can do that. But, the tool makes it much easier and you already need the tool for all the other clips anyways. No point in using 2 different tools when 1 does the job.
@@TheBTRGarage The owner's manual also details all of the other kinds of clips. The only tools that Subaru recommends for any pop clips on the car is a flathead screwdriver and sometimes a phillips-head screwdriver for certain ones.
That's great, but if you've ever actually tried to remove these clips with a flathead you know that it is incredibly easy to ruin them. The tool is faster, way easier, and saves the clips from damage, especially when they are old and gunked up with dirt/grime. Nobody is stopping you from doing things the more difficult way though, have at it.
@@TheBTRGarage I’m just stating that you do not in-fact NEED the tools you recommended to remove the flathead-style pop clips, although they are useful.
Unfortunately I do not have oil pressure logging at this time. I will be adding that in the future to one of the capped ports on the JR cooler adapter though!
Not sure an oil cooler is 100% required. I personally would try 5W-30 oil instead and check temperatures to see if they are significantly higher. The negative aspect is slightly less power. I'm not sure that an oil analysis will tell you much about engine damage with only 2 samples. This is one of the reasons oil sampling isn't great on passenger cars, as it is unlikely to be keep for 10+ years. You need to do it for a long time to identify typical wear rates. You can see from the oil analysis good levels of additive packages, indicating the oil additive package isn't used (Detergents are good Ca/Mg , Wear are good Zn/P, Wear/Friction modifier B okay with only Moly down ~15%).
I did not install my oil cooler until 10k+ miles, over 10 track days/races, and 65+ autocross. So I agree with your first statement :) It doesn't hurt though... Starting the oil analysis right away was to get a baseline and obviously make sure I have the trends starting from the beginning. Interesting to see how it changes more than anything.
I was going to take my JR kit to a shop to have it installed on my BRZ, but your video was so detailed I was able to install it myself yesterday! (changing my oil was about the most complicated thing I knew how to do on my car until now 😅) I probably watched this video a few hundred times through the process and it's now on the car with no issues. Thanks so much for your content!
Dude that's awesome! Exactly what these videos are for, so glad it helped you out!
Thanks for making this video. I went with the combination Jackson Racing radiator and oil cooler/heater. Just a bigger version of what is already on the car. So far so good.
Nice! I've heard good things about those too.
What are your oil temps before and after? Im debating between the two.
Well done. You're an excellent teacher. Use only enough words to communicate the idea and you don't make mistakes with left and right and up and down. When you do some of your testing and I'm very much interested in the oil temperature while you are driving around town in 80 degree weather. Of course the oil pen at the track. Dictated and not reviewed
Thanks! I already have the data from the track, video coming soon. I didn't do much for daily driving before/after, but I can always include what the temps look like on a drive to work or something.
This made the install so much easier! You're a legend!
Awesome! Glad to help 👍🏻
Thanks for this video. I'm installing mine this weekend. Seems like an easy job but it always helps a ton to watch someone else do it first.
38 seconds ago.....so cool and so is the install. still boggles my mind why a car hyped for track use doesn't come with a larger factory cooler than the miniscule heat exchanger. cool on Justin, cool onnnn..... 😎
To be fair the OEM heat exchanger does a decent job of keeping oil temps down (not low, but down). The gen1 cars had typically 25-30° higher oil temps on track, in my experience. That said the "real" oil cooler is definitely worth it if you're doing more than a couple track days/races a year 👍
Hi Justin,
Great content video.
Why did u decide about oil cooler when your oil temp on track are 250 degrees max, wich is ideal oil temp for engine work?
Love my JR kit on my FRS, my only gripe is their hoses. With such tight quarters I think Steel/Nylon AN lines is more appropriate my original lines almost rubbed through to the point of a leak. I ended up upgrading to true AN fittings with steel braid for both lines.
Yea agree, that was one my internal debates between the JR cooler and the Greddy cooler (which has much nicer hoses). I couldn't justify the large cost difference to go with the Greddy though. With the JR hoses oriented properly, as I adjusted them in the video, I think they will be fine.
@@TheBTRGarage Totally agree on that one the Greddy is way too expensive for what it is. Could easily of been my routing too but way I see it it's no biggy and something I wanted to learn anyways, worked out in the end! 👍
Are you able to put sensors on the adapter plate. I’m currently running an oil pressure and temperature gauge.
Yep, check around the 10:00 minute mark. There are 2 ports for sensors that are plugged by default.
@@TheBTRGaragenice are they about the size of the oil galley plug or would you need a bigger adapter fitting?
@skulmaster4522 JR makes adapters that have 1/8npt female threads: jacksonracing.com/product/1-8-npt-sensor-adapter/
great video. cant wait for the follow-up video
Thanks! Follow up coming soon :)
Nice video! I'm going to install mine. Do you have problem with it after more than a year? Like leaking or hose grinding against something?
Awesome video. I’ve watched through most of your GR86 videos so far and I’m curious what you think of the oil pan baffle kits that are becoming available?
Worth it for street and some track use? Any warranty concerns?
I plan on keeping mine stock engine-wise but am considering a few ‘reliability’ mods for peace of mind.
I've thought about adding a baffle. But, someone has done some extensive testing with one on a gen2 car and it did little to nothing to improve oil pressure, especially is the lowest points. So, that data kind of put it further back on my list of upgrades.
@@TheBTRGarage I've been reading similar thoughts from folks like Killer B and others who track heavily. These pans are cheap enough to where even if they only help slightly, I feel like it may be worth doing while the lower pan is already removed. I see some references to the GR86 Cup/series cars running baffled pans, and that STI makes their own pan (I can't find it anywhere, though) - but overall yeah, not a 10/10 'everyone must do this' upgrade from the data that is available.
I'm still waiting for my name to come up in my local dealer's queue and I'm actively searching for cars while I wait. I've already narrowed down day 1 mods like brakes/tires. Only outstanding questions are about the oiling situation.
Seems like reasonable/ideal steps to me are:
- drop lower oil pan and clean up the RTV in the pan and pickup
- switch to 5w30 for track use and switch back to 0w20 for winter street driving
- keep it topped up frequently
- monitor oil temps closely and if needed get an oil cooler
- consider an air-oil separator kit
- investigate logging oil pressure (mentioned this in a comment on another video)
- consider the baffled pan if I see regular concerning dips in oil pressure
@@chasewd5117 Prep sounds all good to me. I'd consider running the OEM Michelin PS4's, assuming you're getting the top trim model, they are pretty decent.
@@chasewd5117 Blackhawk Japan has those STI pans
Be careful on the oil lines, I installed this and didn’t know the longer oil line was rubbing on top of the frame next to the windshield fluid reservoir. Spotted it and taped it before it wore through
Yea, I noticed that and slid the included shield over to cover where it was hitting the frame. I'll keep an eye on it!
The same thing happened to me but unfortunately I didn't notice it until it was too late. Oil went everywhere and I thought the engine was gone for good. I replaced the longer oil line and thank goodness the engine was fine. I'm also noticing that the oil sandwich plate, even when tightened to 35, will still slowly rotates counter clockwise which will eventually cause the oil line to hit the frame again. I have taped the frame area with gorilla tape but I'll still keep my eyes on it. Maybe I will get stainless steel braided oil lines in the future tho.
I know this is a late comment but I read through every owner's manual for every car I own in its entirety. For those pop clips with the flathead groove in it, according to the BRZ owner's manual, you should twist the center piece with a flathead screwdriver about 90 degrees and then it should come out like a normal pop clip. You do NOT need a specialized tool. In order to reinsert the clip, you should just pop it back in and twist it back to how it was.
Edit: for the BRZ owner's manual it is on page 341 "Maintenance Tips"
Sure, you can do that. But, the tool makes it much easier and you already need the tool for all the other clips anyways. No point in using 2 different tools when 1 does the job.
@@TheBTRGarage The owner's manual also details all of the other kinds of clips. The only tools that Subaru recommends for any pop clips on the car is a flathead screwdriver and sometimes a phillips-head screwdriver for certain ones.
That's great, but if you've ever actually tried to remove these clips with a flathead you know that it is incredibly easy to ruin them. The tool is faster, way easier, and saves the clips from damage, especially when they are old and gunked up with dirt/grime. Nobody is stopping you from doing things the more difficult way though, have at it.
@@TheBTRGarage I’m just stating that you do not in-fact NEED the tools you recommended to remove the flathead-style pop clips, although they are useful.
So when you change your oil how do you get all of the old oil out of the lines and from the intercooler?
@@tyrian869 You don't. Some will remain in those places and get mixed back with the new oil.
Are the tools linked?
Crap, I totally forgot! Here is the link, and I updated the description. Thanks!
Push Pin Plier Set : amzn.to/3Oe2Ilk
Can you also report any changes in oil pressure?
Unfortunately I do not have oil pressure logging at this time. I will be adding that in the future to one of the capped ports on the JR cooler adapter though!
@@TheBTRGaragewill be very interesting 😊
the OEM oil cooler on the GR86 is not removed?
so both can work together?
Correct, you can have them both on at the same time.
Not sure an oil cooler is 100% required. I personally would try 5W-30 oil instead and check temperatures to see if they are significantly higher. The negative aspect is slightly less power.
I'm not sure that an oil analysis will tell you much about engine damage with only 2 samples. This is one of the reasons oil sampling isn't great on passenger cars, as it is unlikely to be keep for 10+ years. You need to do it for a long time to identify typical wear rates. You can see from the oil analysis good levels of additive packages, indicating the oil additive package isn't used (Detergents are good Ca/Mg , Wear are good Zn/P, Wear/Friction modifier B okay with only Moly down ~15%).
I did not install my oil cooler until 10k+ miles, over 10 track days/races, and 65+ autocross. So I agree with your first statement :) It doesn't hurt though...
Starting the oil analysis right away was to get a baseline and obviously make sure I have the trends starting from the beginning. Interesting to see how it changes more than anything.