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That one's installation will be a little different than the PRO XP. It's the same head unit, but the harness and bracket will be unique to that machine.

@ im going to try today. It seems like its the same process but idk. How long did u take to do it?

@@3DayWeekend luckily the manual comes with instructions for my xp4 turbo

Certified TH-cam mechanic right here! haha

Thank you!

Yeah, not a project I wanted to do, but it will save a lot of money! I guess it was worth it!

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

I have always re-used the cam bolts. The service manual I was following did not say that they must be replaced. Several others have commented on them being torque-to-yield, but you have to loosen them and tighten them several times to set the timing. I've never had one of those bolts break or loosen, so if I have to do another one of these engines, I will be reusing the cam bolts. Hope that helps!

I'm not sure what you're referencing. Google translate said "after adjusting the belt", but at that time in the video, we're working on the crank shaft lock pin.

@3DayWeekend yea i made that note before i started working on my car, and its my first time doing this so im clueless. The note was meant to mean: "place the special tool after doing X"

No, fortunately for me, the connecting rod was fine. It's still running strong to this day!

This one just had the connector one on side that the hose screws into.

I'm willing to bet that the last two codes are a result of the first code - C102A. If I recall correctly, Patriots have a tone ring in the hubs. I'd probably replace the left rear wheel hub, and throw a new wheel speed sensor at it (if they are relatively cheap) just to be safe. Once that's changed, clear the codes and drive it again to see what codes come back. Hopefully it's just a tone ring and you're home free!

If you have blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, then it is quite possible you have bad rings. You could also have a bad turbo though. I'd do a compression test / leak down test first, then make a decision from there. You can also do a head gasket test, as that is a very common failure point in these engines. If the compression/leak-down test suggests an issue, then yes, you'll probably need to replace the piston rings. If compression/leak-down is good, then I'd be looking at the turbo first. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoy the content. We do work hard out here. Vehicle maintenance is a constant struggle and keeps us very busy, that's for sure! We are blessed to have awesome neighbors willing to share their land as part of our co-op riding group. Glad to have you with the channel!

You'll definitely need the tool. They aren't that much, and available on Amazon. A link is in the video description.

@ thanks

Thanks! Tomorrow's video shows the very first race. We already have ideas on how to make the track even better! I can't wait for spring to come back around so I can get the dozer back up there.

I thought so too, because polarity does matter with these. However, no matter which way I turned it, I could never get that one to light. A few months later, another one went out. I bought a second light kit, replaced those two, and it has been fine ever since. Seems that I just got a bad LED. All good now though! It has been a couple years now, and I'm still liking the blue. Thanks for watching!

@ I gotta do mine as well. Both the cluster and heater controls. Then I gotta read up on doing it to my 2nd gen. Always something!

I learned that trick from a self-proclaimed "old timer" mechanic and I've been using it ever since. Some people criticize me for it, but you can't argue with the final result - it doesn't leak! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I'm glad that you found it helpful. I try to keep the videos as short as possible without skipping a step!

Thank you! I lost a transmission once due to too much slack in the chain. This is definitely a regular-maintenance type of adjustment. Those machines had terrible drum brakes. I was constantly replacing them. Do yourself a HUGE favor, and keep that machine away from mud/water as much as possible. The brakes do not respond well to moisture of any kind. The brakes are pretty simple mechanically, so it shouldn't take much to free up that lever. There's a large o-ring around the housing. I'd make sure that it is in good shape to help keep moisture out of there! Other than that, those machines were great, very reliable, and the kids loved them. I hope he enjoys it as much as my kids did!

You're welcome. Thank you for watching!

Per my service manual, the sprocket bolts do not need to be replaced. I've never replaced them, and they run fine. However, there seems to be another service manual out there that says they do need to be replaced each time. Ultimately it's up to you, but again, I've never replaced them and I've never had one break. Great question! Thanks for watching!

Yes, there was a hairline crack in the head between a coolant channel and exhaust port. When I took it to the machine shop, I had it hydro-tested. The test is what showed us the leak. I then went to my local salvage yard and was able to find a replacement head. I took the replacement head to the machine shop, had it tested, milled, and that is the one that I installed in this video. Of all the bad head gaskets I've run into with these engines, I've only had one cracked head. It doesn't seem to be a common failure, but it can happen. Great question! Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekend Thanks for the reply. getting ready to do the gasket on mine soon and as a machinist, bad casting is first thing i think of with something like that. Good to know this is not a common problem on these...

Yes, you do, when you're ready to set the timing. I show that later in the video.

It's full now!

Sorry, I don't recall the exact size of that bolt. If you have all of the timing cover bolts out, it was the longest one.

For the flatness of the cylinder head? That's .03mm Transverse - 0.03mm, 0.00118in Longitude - 0.05mm, 0.00197in

The sprocket bolts go to 37 ft-lb, then an additional 60 degrees.

Yeah, I realized when I was editing I kept calling that idler the one-way. I did get to it later on, and it was the root cause of my problem in the end. Thanks for the comment and for watching!

Two different problems there. If it's not running, it could be a bad fan, blown fuse, bad relay, or faulty temperature sensor. If it's running late, there could be air in the system or perhaps a faulty temperature sensor... maybe a sticking relay. There could be other problems, but I'd say those would be a good starting point. A mechanic should have the tool to plug in and manually test the fan to rule out the fuse/relay/fan motor being at fault.

Fuel pressure was OK. Valve lash was the root cause of this problem. Seems to be a common theme in these 570's.

Yes, they do have the same chain setup. It's not the exact same chain, but same design. The tensioners are known to go bad in a 1000, so I'd start with that first. Especially if it's loud right at startup. That would be a quick, easy, relatively inexpensive fix. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Haha You weren't supposed to notice! :-) Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekendthank you so much for your video! Between this one and another two I was able to replace all my blend doors and my heater core. I’m putting the dash back in right now 👍 I have super poor tool selection and mediocre car experience and I got it done across a couple days waiting for parts

It'll be running in tomorrow's video! I was hoping for just a broken cam chain, but no such luck. In hindsight, that engine has been run hard for 20 years, so I guess it was entitled to have some sort of issue. I'm just glad I got it running for him again!

You definitely could if you wanted to. It doesn't really matter as long as you make sure the cams are in the right phase when you take it apart. I purposely left the cams out-of-phase when I took it apart to show what to do in case someone else does the same. You'll still be turning them to set the timing later, but at least you'll know they are in phase when you're ready to put it back together!

Really... I wouldn't think air could get through that oily mess. If I'm down near my air compressor next time I want to clean it out, I'll give it a try! Seems like a much cleaner alternative to spraying water in there, which results in me wearing it! Thanks for the comment and for watching!

@@3DayWeekend It worked surprisingly well for me on an old 820 JD tractor. To do it effectively it must be removed. I reinstalled the radiator after pressure washing, but it still overheated because enough water pressure to get the oily dirt out was damaging. If the dirt is rock hard soak the radiator. I was amazed how all the dirt was blown out, and I was surprised how much more came out! Depending on how badly it's clogged, and how thick the radiator is you could get some blowback. My engine now runs without over heating.

Hey there. It could very well be the head gasket. It is a very common failure point on these cars. If you wanted to test it first, Harbor Freight has a test kit available. You'll need the tester and the fluid. It's looking for compression gasses in the coolant. If the test fluid changes color, the head gasket is bad. Alternatively, you could take it to a shop and have them run the test. They shouldn't charge more than an hour of labor to run the test (it's a quick test), which is slightly more than the cost of the test kit. I'll cross my fingers that it isn't the head gasket for you, but it typically is with these engines. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching the different videos! Quite a coincidence to have you join for two different vehicles at the same time! I just wish it were under more favorable circumstances, and not for broken vehicles!

It has been a while since I was in there, but I just checked the service manual. It states that the markings on the rods and the flarings on the rod bearings must point to the transmission side. Hope that helps!

Yeah, there are quite a few up there!

Thank you so much! I really appreciate the support!

Yeah, we've come a long way from the old 800's. The new ones definitely seem a little easier to service! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching!

No problem. Thanks for watching! Hopefully you found it helpful.

Two ways. If you're low on coolant and it isn't leaking externally in the engine compartment, it's your head gasket. If you'd rather run a test, Harbor Freight has a test kit. There are two parts - the test kit and the fluid. This will test for signs of combustion gasses in your coolant. If the fluid changes color, it's your head gasket. If you don't want to buy the parts, a shop will probably charge you an hour of labor to run the test. Hope that helps!

Since you had the valves out, were they lapped and sealing correctly now? Cylinder set to TDC? A brand new engine can have a little leak down, as the rings haven't set yet. You can test that theory by putting a little oil down in the cylinder. If all of them are doing it by about the same, that could be it. If just one cylinder has a big leak and the others are OK, turn the engine, try again, and if it's still happening, try the oil test. If it improves, you're looking at pistons/rings. If not, you're looking at valves/head/head gasket. Hopefully that helps!

No mechanic - just a machinist for that part.

Thank you! I hope you found it helpful.

Thank you very much!