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You shouldn't have to do the rings. I do the rings in another video because the previous driver kept trying to drive it repeatedly while it was overheating. That glazed the cylinder walls. Of all the cruzes we've done with bad head gaskets, only one had glazed cylinders. If it was running fine before the head gasket failure, wasn't consuming oil or misfiring, and it wasn't run for extended periods of time overheated, the rings are most likely OK. Hope that helps, and I hope your rings are OK! Thanks for watching!

They are perfect. No issues, and I highly recommend it! Kind-of a pain to put them on, but definitely worth it.

Oh wow! I haven't heard that sound! This one didn't make any noise when it actually failed. It just lost power and threw the code. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

@@3DayWeekend working on it this weekend. There's a lot of oil on the front side of the engine where the crankshaft pulley and all that is. I didn't get an overpressure code but my boost sensor could be bad. I've got everything loose except that one hidden bolt on the oil return.

Glad to help. Thank you for watching!

That would make things SOOO much easier!!! Thanks for watching!

These engines, although prone to many failures, are definitely easy to work on!

You're welcome! Hopefully it is a great machine and you are able to enjoy it. Thanks for watching!

Also an option. :-)

Very good question, but no, I didn't reach out to them. The Gilomen tuned ECU came with the machine when he got it, so I wouldn't expect any kind of warranty support. To this day I'm still uncertain if the ECU was faulty itself, or perhaps it could have been reprogrammed and been fine. We only had 5 days to figure it out, or he would have missed the next trip. That meant we didn't have time to ship it back, have it reprogrammed or replaced, then sent back. Alba offered an option of sending a tuned ECU out to us next-day (paid for next-day shipping), then we could send the existing ECU back to them later on. That's what we did and he was able to make the trip! It was close though. I put the new ECU in his machine the day before we left! Again, no discredit to Gilomen. The machine ran and felt great up until the failure, and if we had more time, we could have given them the opportunity to work on it. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and for the comment!

You got me curious so I checked their site and they do offer a free "test and reflash" service. If we weren't so pressed for time, I probably would have gone that route. Maybe it would have been fine, maybe they would have found it to be faulty and we'd have to look at other options. Impossible to know now!

If I had all the parts pre-ordered and didn't need to send the head out for testing / decking, I can get this job done in under a day. Waiting for the head was the longest part. I'd say in the end it was apart for 2 weeks. Hope that helps!

Oof. Yeah, definitely not a cheap failure!. Suspension Armor is definitely the better option in my book! So far so good! Thanks for watching!

My math was wrong in the first one. When I put it in the site it came up with a different value, so I double checked everything and confirmed that I had calculated wrong. 502 was the right one after all. It has been a year and it is still running great!

Yes, it is pretty much the same procedure.

From the clutch side, counter-clockwise. From the stator side, clockwise.

White smoke from the exhaust is a tell-tale sign you have a bad head or head gasket. If you do choose to replace the head gasket, be sure you have the cylinder head hydrotested by a machine shop. I had one that was smoking pretty badly due to a crack in the head and had to get a replacement one. Sorry to hear about your problem!

You'll definitely want to find all of the pieces. They can go back together, but they could fall down through the timing cover and you do not want them to go down in there! Fish them out and you can put it back together. If you're unsure, order another cam chain tensioner so you can make sure all of the pieces are accounted for. You're not in too much trouble, just be sure you find it all!

Pinch / twist / pull. It should come off fairly easily. If it has never been off before, it might stick just a little bit at first, but it will eventually slide off.

@@3DayWeekend Thank you for the video 🙏🏼🙏🏼I followed it through and now my car is functioning fine again. You really saved me

Hey there! Yes, I couldn't show every part in real time or the video would be 10+ hours long. If you listen closely, I will tell you what I'm about to take off (for example, remove these 8 bolts), then I do it in the timelapse. It's all in there, I just have to speed up the actual bolt removal. If that doesn't help though, be sure to grab a Haynes manual to guide you. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

I'm not sure why you would have 6psi at idle unless the sensor is messed up, but mine would only build up to around 20psi under full load because of this faulty part. A quick test would be to manually rig up something to hold your wastegate closed, then drive it (I used wire). If you see 30psi again, that's your problem! Just don't let off the throttle abruptly while your wastegate is wired closed, or things can go boom!

I used a pipe wrench to unscrew it. We were out of town camping so I just went to the local Walmart and picked up a cheap one. It was enough to take it out. Thanks for watching!

You can leave it in, it's just slower. I'm too impatient to leave it in there and wait! haha But yes, excellent pointer for not over-tightening. Definitely don't want to strip it. Always a good idea to check for leaks on these engines. One overheat, and you could be looking at a head gasket job! Thanks for the pointers and for watching!

Welcome! I'm glad you're here and I hope you enjoy the videos!

If you have the tool, it's pretty self-explanatory. Put the crank shaft pin in (remove the timing chain pin), turn the cams to install the timing plate on the right side of them, and install the timing set over the sprockets. It will only tighten down if you have it installed correctly. Once everything fits together like I show (crank pin in, plate on the cams, and timing set fully seated), you're in time!

Sorry to hear that! The good news is that a complete failure of those parts will not leave you stranded. We kept driving the ACE knowing that the part was going bad. Eventually it started to make grinding noises once the yoke could turn on the shaft. All this meant is that we couldn't use 4wd. It still worked for the remainder of the trip in 2wd, even though it was noisy! If it were my machine, I'd keep sending it until it let loose. Even if it did start making noise, you could pull the prop shaft out, and it will still run and drive in 2wd and get some more use out of the machine until winter! Hope that helps, thank you for your compliments, and thank you very much for watching!

@@3DayWeekend That's good news! I'll just keep running her then until it gives up. Thanks for the info!

All manufacturers will have the same amount of grease in their bearings, and there are HUGE debates going on about greasing the bearings. It all depends on your riding. If I were riding mostly roads, sand dunes, or high-speed, open, dry trails, then I'd leave the bearings as-is. Slow speed, wet, muddy trails? Absolutely grease the bearings, no question. I used to go through bearings every 200 miles on my old Arctic Cat Wildcat until I started to grease them. After that, I could go thousands! It definitely makes a difference in my book, but to each his own! Thanks for watching!

Surprisingly enough, my service manual does not give a torque spec for the exhaust manifold. I just checked again, and it's not in there. Must be why I skipped over that one. I didn't put them on crazy tight, as they can be stubborn to remove. Nice an snug with the quarter inch driver was enough so far. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Hopefully you were able to get it back together! Thanks for watching!

Nothing fancy - just a regular metric socket set will have what you need. The only other tool you may want is called "oil filter pliers", which is only needed if the old filter is stuck on there pretty snug. Do a Google search for that phrase and you'll see what they look like. All of those tools are available at Walmart or Harbor Freight. Hope that helps!

The kids are pretty rough on the brakes, so I've had to do them a few times. That steering rack only had about 2500 miles on it, so I'm pretty disappointed. I'm fairly certain that machine was routinely driven through mud and water by the previous owner, because the steering rack was worn, the output shaft of the transmission to the prop shaft was worn, and now I've found that the front diff input shaft to prop shaft is worn as well! It's non stop with these machines! The kids love them and we enjoy our family rides, so I'll keep piecing them back together! Thank you for watching!

I agree! But it never seems to matter how much time you spend with that power washer - start pulling body panels off and mud is everywhere! Thanks for watching!

It all depends on where you ride! Remember, 100 miles of non-stop hard, tight, technical trails can take a long time to cover is much harder on a machine than 100 miles of open trails or roads. In my opinion, the 100 miles of tough trails is more of a test on the machine than the easy miles are. Everyone rides their machines differently and will experience different issues. That's just what I've done so far! Thanks for watching!

I removed the timing pin once I had the cam sprockets re-installed, but before setting the timing. That way your tension is correct while setting the timing. You should be able to turn the cam as long as your pistons are down out of the way, provided everything is installed properly. They won't move freely, as there is quite a bit of tension on them from the valve springs. If you're hung up on those, it will be a "soft stop" as you put pressure against a spring. If you're hitting a piston, it will be a "hard stop" when you try to turn it. Hope that helps!

Haha yes, mud is everywhere up here and ruins everything! There is nowhere I can go where we won't get muddy! I've visited out your way and absolutely loved it. Ended up heading to Moab last year and had a blast in the wife's Jeep. We really hope to return next year with the machines. I'm really looking forward to it! The trails and the scenery were amazing!

Agreed. I'm shocked what people have to pay a dealer to make some of these repairs. Hopefully these videos will help people save money! Thanks for watching!

Perhaps, but since these engines are known for bad head gaskets, I'd rather replace the one I have so I know it's good rather than put a used engine in there with an aged head gasket. Just my opinion! Thanks for watching!

That is interesting. I've never seen the lash get looser - only tighter. As dust gets in there, it will wear away at the valves and seats which allow the valves to seat in deeper resulting in a tighter lash. I'm not sure what would cause it to be looser. Perhaps something is jammed in there? Or the cage that holds your cams down isn't seated right? I'm really not sure. I'd probably pull the head and lap the valves in an effort to get everything clean and seated properly before setting the lash. Those shims are $40 a piece! I'm curious as to what you find for sure!

Thanks for the reply, I ended up taking the head off and the intake valves ended up being bent. There was about a 16th of an inch gap between the valve and the seat. Neither the valves nor the piston looked like they hit, so I don’t know what the cause was

Thanks! I do like to involve the kids as much as possible, especially if I'm working on one of their machines. I figure if I can show them the basic things now, it will help them in the future! Thank you for your support!

We love that barn. Took us a while to get it built, but it turned out great! Thanks for watching!

No matter how far it pulls in, this will be the fix. I've had to do it twice now. The second time around, I ordered a larger button from Amazon. Hopefully that's enough to keep it from pulling in a 3rd time!

Excellent pointer. Yes, all bolts should be torqued to spec.

Oh, that's interesting. I haven't had a cracked manifold yet, but I've definitely had a bad turbo. But yes, if you're right there, it's easier to just do them both! I'm glad you're having good luck with the aftermarket parts. I've heard some do and some don't. I wimped out and went OEM. haha Thanks for watching!

You're welcome. Glad you found it useful! Thank you for watching!

No problem. Hopefully it helps someone out! We were definitely scratching our heads on that one!