I'm printing i150 for years now. It's crucial to fully dry the filament before printing (65C for at least 8 hours). Printing directly from a fresh spool or sample package will result in parts which are much weaker than from dried filament. Also, even though they say i150 can be printed without enclosure, you should print it enclosed for much better results.
@@lockeboss502 I use it for parts which need to be wear resistant while having good sliding properties. The alternative would be any kind of Nylon. Compared to Nylon the handling of i150 is quite simple.
Did you try to use the "cancel object" feature of MK4 ? It should allow you to not scrap the whole printbed when you just have one print that got unstuck from the bed, like you had on the first print.
Great video, as always. What was Igus thinking, sending you such tiny samples? That’s silly to the point of being insulting. If they can’t afford to send a couple of kg for some of the best testing on the internet it makes me seriously question if they’re a company I’d want to deal with 😠
@@MyTechFun Yeah, I understand that, I was reacting a little emotionally 😁 I noticed that they have a button on their website to leave compliments and complaints, maybe I’ll leave them a (less emotional) complaint, pointing out that it doesn’t take millions of subscribers to pay back the investment of a few kilos of even expensive materials. Just one engineer coming across a recipes is his/her spare time is all it takes to end up with a commercial or industrial customer using thousands of spools.
Well, in typical fashion, I decided that anything worth doing is worth *over* doing 😂 Here’s what I wrote to Igus just now: -- I’m not myself a customer, but I wanted to give some feedback on your samples policy as it relates to the TH-cam channel MyTechFun. The creator there recently ran some tests on your i150 and i180 filaments, with impressive results in terms of wear resistance and in the case of the i180, temperature tolerance. His testing was hampered greatly, though, by the fact that you chose to only send him 80 grams of each filament. This parsimony did not reflect well on Igus. While he runs a relatively small channel with a whimsical name, he does well-controlled and useful if basic tests of a variety of both common and uncommon filaments. He doesn’t test to ISO or ASTM standards, but his simple tests do give a very good relative idea of how filaments compare with each other across a range of properties. I understand that you can’t be sending out several hundred Euros’ worth of filament to every random TH-camr who asks for some, but this channel is one of the very few where such an investment would be justified. While he has a relatively small reach, it would only take one engineer browsing TH-cam for tests of Igus filaments and coming across his material to turn into a commercial or industrial contract for hundreds or thousands of kilograms. Significantly, AFAIK he is the only channel on TH-cam doing abrasion tests, an area where Igus polymers excel. (Again, his methods are rudimentary but at least repeatable, and do show significant differences between plastics.) As I said, I’m not myself a customer (and don’t even need a reply), but I wanted to provide this feedback, since I would want to have it if I were responsible for Igus marketing. TH-cam could be a bottomless pit of effort and resources, but could also be very effective if used wisely to leverage the tests and presentations of channels like My Tech Fun. Thanks for your attention, and congratulations on developing what seems like an extraordinary and unique line of plastics for FDM printing. Best regards, - Dave Etchells (One parting thought: I imagine one concern with TH-cam tests would be that your unique products might be misused or misapplied, resulting in inaccurate, negative information being spread. To that end, including the sort of tips and guidelines you’d presumably share with your paying customers would help a lot. My Tech Fun initially saw very low layer adhesion with i180, but fortunately (barely) had enough filament left to do another run with 20 degree higher nozzle temperature. It’s possible that you cautioned about the need for higher nozzle temps for better layer adhesion and he just missed it, but I’d think in any sampling situation you’d want to have important guidelines prominently printed on a paper to be included with every shipment.)
Hey again, this was an interesting test. I noticed this filament a while ago, glad someone did a proper test of it. For your vice I suggest the Extrudr Flex Hard CF. It should be quite wear resistant and when you tested it, it only started to deform at 150°C. Would you consider testing the Fiberlogy MattFlex 40D? It's my favorite TPU filament and it's quite unique... maybe you can combine the test with the VarioShore TPU filament.
For the vice jaws you should test BASF TPU 64D and TPS 90A. BASF TPU 64D has high chemical wear, abrasion, impact resistance, while BASF TPS 90A (SEBS based) has non-slip (rubberlike) properties and great layer adhesion
Yep. The filament is expensive... but making videos is also expensive. Sending such tiny amount of sample is almost disrespectful. That said... I didn't see such advantage comparing them to Nylon. What do you think?
They contacted me again, and they want to send whole spools now if I will create another video. They claim that pure wearing is good for these materials, but without sharp edges of shaft. Maybe I will prepare another type of wearing test with rotating shaft or sliding on shaft. Probably I will include nylon in that video, only not sure CF or not CF..
It all depends on your application; I can see a lot of commercial use cases where the cost/kg would be purely secondary to the physical properties. These plastics do have good wear characteristics, combined with good strength, and the temperature resistance of the i180 is excellent for a filament that can be printed on a standard 3D printer. I don’t need anything like this for my home printing, but could easily see using it in some sort of high-use mechanical system.
It can be a great material for applications with non-standard dimensions. Rarely one can find an 7mm round guid rail fro exemple. A +1 for Polylite ASA 😂
For the vice jaws I use Arnitel 2060 and glass filled nylon. From Arnitel I do have two sets of jaws, One set is printed just with two walls for the more delicate parts.
Ha! Nice one! Since i was one of those who suggested it lol.. i also have the sample bags, but looking at rolls, I150 and 170 are at 35eur, but then it goes to 90-350€ per roll..
Great video! I'm curious to see how the CoPa from polymaker would behave in the friction test. I printed it keeping it extremely dry and it feels very slippery in the hand.
This is a great video, getting those engineering properties like wear resistance and friction coefficient is valuable. Thanks. I printed replacement wear blocks for by dustbin (it slides out) and used PETG. Being easy to replace I printed a spare set for next time but if it were difficult to replace I will come back to your data. After you ABS question I realized that I use ASA instead of ABS because I thought the properties were similar. Now I’ll have to go a find out.
@@MyTechFun I use Polymaker poly lite ASA and Spectrum ASA. Both on Ender 3v2 with a Sprite extruder and Bambu X1C. The Ender 3v2 is covered. The poly lite ASA I used for functional parts but the Spectrum ASA I only used for ornaments (it’s white) so they didn’t need any particular properties. I did some Acetone vapour smoothing on the Polylite ASA but left it too long so it turned into jelly (5 hours) and distorted when I took it out. It was for a mould so it was useless after that. I’m more careful now.
Based on your previous tests I have switched to polylite ASA. I’m much happier with the polylite ASA than the other brands I was using. So thanks. Very interested to see the layer adhesion versus speed, temp and fan results. I get excellent results from the Bambu X1C with ASA but would like to improve the layer adhesion.
@@contrezerva9024 I haven’t used 100% infill on with ASA but the only way to get spaghetti is when layers don’t stick or the part moved. If there’s a blockage for a few layers you might get it but then it would stay blocked. Maybe your layer height is too small and the extrusion gets blocked at some spots. Might have the filament getting jammed or tangled.
My understanding is that the tribo-filaments operate better over time as the solid lubricants get deposited on the metal interface over time. I wonder if that's something that could be testable using a setup similar to your abrasion testing apparatus and a strain gauge or something? Would be very curious to see the results of that
Polymaker ABS should be in your additional testing. Thanks for the great video! I wouldn’t normally get the exposure on filaments like this so it is much appreciated.
Really I hate Igus product where my CNC machine Stepcraft use there lead screws dryspin , but I love i180 for temp resistance I think it made by Nylon material
Nice video. It is not good to see that they only gave younthat much filament because they aren't the easyest ones. I have been printing with i180 and i only cooling it from 10 to 25% of fan speed and for me it is working well.
Very insteresting topic, is a shame that IGUS did not send a couple of spools, there are not many videos of IGUS applications, i hope to see a future comparision with nylon, for the moment i do not see IGUS filament as a great option
I like the igus filament but as you found, getting it to work for things like bushings without machining isn't really possible as the required tolerances are just too tight. (The reamers are a good idea but might come out undersize) It does at least cut nicely on a lathe and works for things like low friction washers straight off the printer. I also found better layer adhesion at the highest possible temperatures but never got usable results with 180i on the Bambu for anything like a flanged bearing, only flat washers and simple tubes. There is a high temp food grade option but I think it requires a rather highend printer and costs around 300 euros per spool :) One other thing for people to keep in mind is that you can't use Igus bushings with non-anodized aluminum.
For vise jaws smooth ground on one side and a vee on the the other (I don't think you can buy such a thing but I have made them and you can hold a wide range of parts without damage. For really delicate parts I would l suggest leather is the best option as it has much better friction than any plastic. TPU might also be a good option.
Just for reference... how the Sliding linear bearings in petg / ABS / ASA behave? Also did you tested the ABSm? (seems to be the friendly printable cousin of ABS)
I use PCPTE for vice soft jaws, good temp resistance, harder than TPU but softer and grippier than most nylon, and bounces back from indents. To be honest it's probably a better bearing material than these too - I use it for wishbone bearings in race cars.
Thanks for all the test, awesome information source! You know what could be a cool test, a wearing test using resin on resin parts, mainly for robotics and mechanics parts, been using some siraya tech blu for some gears I had to make but would love to know how other resins deal with it.
Hey, may I make a huge request? Could you please put up a simple graphic after each test that, at the very least, displays the result of each filament? Trying to keep track of each filament and how they relate to each other is impossible for my brain. It would be so helpful. Thank you.
please also try i190 (and order more free samples for good measure hehehe) would be interesting to see if the printed filament also has the potential to be as good as their dry bearings. Maybe a LM8UU vs. the Igus version vs. printed Igus version would be a cool video
They contacted me after the video, they would like to send full spools (i190 included). Maybe I will give another try to these filaments, including some longer testings too.
Thank you SO MUCH for your thorough investigations ! This was yet another great contribution to the community, I've already used your sheets for stress calculation parameters and can't stress enough how big of a positive impact you're making to everyone! Thanks!
When I’m communicating with producers they are mostly always arrogant. I recommended you many times in the past and it is sad to see how IGUS handled it. Thanks for the effort testing it for us!
I would only imagine using IGLIDUR filament for printed sliding joints, like ball or Oldham couplings (it is what it's known for, right)? Not for hooks. But with so few* abrasion tests it's kind of hard to tell the conclusive answer - is it better than PETG/ASA for this purpose? *very few tests and some iffy ones - like the one with the badly fitted, rocking pin that dug into the material :)
@@DailyFrankPeter Can't really think of one off the top of my head. But then again cars' top speeds are tested too and they have very little real life value as well, it only tells about its maximum capabilities.
@@TNX255 My point is that IGLIDURs perk is supposed to be self-lubrication/abrasion resistance (judging by the huge range of IGUS drop-in sliding replacements for mechanical bearings). Hence abrasion/friction tests in the vid make total sense. OTOH, if the test tool bites into the material that's more like shearing testing (I think).
Just to clear something: Sometimes I do, when I think the filament is worth it. I don't need so many filaments. From video I earn approx 5 $, no affiliate links in most cases. Additionally I have to work on it several days. So, as you can see, it is not "free".
I'm printing i150 for years now. It's crucial to fully dry the filament before printing (65C for at least 8 hours). Printing directly from a fresh spool or sample package will result in parts which are much weaker than from dried filament. Also, even though they say i150 can be printed without enclosure, you should print it enclosed for much better results.
its pretty expensive, what are you using it for and why?
@@lockeboss502 I use it for parts which need to be wear resistant while having good sliding properties. The alternative would be any kind of Nylon. Compared to Nylon the handling of i150 is quite simple.
@@simonpirschel3379 Oh, I see the point. It is the benefit of Nylon, but easier to print. Is it?
Where can I get the i150 filament?
Did you try to use the "cancel object" feature of MK4 ? It should allow you to not scrap the whole printbed when you just have one print that got unstuck from the bed, like you had on the first print.
Great video, as always.
What was Igus thinking, sending you such tiny samples? That’s silly to the point of being insulting. If they can’t afford to send a couple of kg for some of the best testing on the internet it makes me seriously question if they’re a company I’d want to deal with 😠
Maybe they never heard of my channel, there are still much more popular channels with 20x more subscrubers, so for them, I am too small.
@@MyTechFun Yeah, I understand that, I was reacting a little emotionally 😁
I noticed that they have a button on their website to leave compliments and complaints, maybe I’ll leave them a (less emotional) complaint, pointing out that it doesn’t take millions of subscribers to pay back the investment of a few kilos of even expensive materials. Just one engineer coming across a recipes is his/her spare time is all it takes to end up with a commercial or industrial customer using thousands of spools.
Well, in typical fashion, I decided that anything worth doing is worth *over* doing 😂
Here’s what I wrote to Igus just now:
--
I’m not myself a customer, but I wanted to give some feedback on your samples policy as it relates to the TH-cam channel MyTechFun. The creator there recently ran some tests on your i150 and i180 filaments, with impressive results in terms of wear resistance and in the case of the i180, temperature tolerance.
His testing was hampered greatly, though, by the fact that you chose to only send him 80 grams of each filament. This parsimony did not reflect well on Igus.
While he runs a relatively small channel with a whimsical name, he does well-controlled and useful if basic tests of a variety of both common and uncommon filaments. He doesn’t test to ISO or ASTM standards, but his simple tests do give a very good relative idea of how filaments compare with each other across a range of properties.
I understand that you can’t be sending out several hundred Euros’ worth of filament to every random TH-camr who asks for some, but this channel is one of the very few where such an investment would be justified.
While he has a relatively small reach, it would only take one engineer browsing TH-cam for tests of Igus filaments and coming across his material to turn into a commercial or industrial contract for hundreds or thousands of kilograms. Significantly, AFAIK he is the only channel on TH-cam doing abrasion tests, an area where Igus polymers excel. (Again, his methods are rudimentary but at least repeatable, and do show significant differences between plastics.)
As I said, I’m not myself a customer (and don’t even need a reply), but I wanted to provide this feedback, since I would want to have it if I were responsible for Igus marketing. TH-cam could be a bottomless pit of effort and resources, but could also be very effective if used wisely to leverage the tests and presentations of channels like My Tech Fun.
Thanks for your attention, and congratulations on developing what seems like an extraordinary and unique line of plastics for FDM printing.
Best regards,
- Dave Etchells
(One parting thought: I imagine one concern with TH-cam tests would be that your unique products might be misused or misapplied, resulting in inaccurate, negative information being spread. To that end, including the sort of tips and guidelines you’d presumably share with your paying customers would help a lot. My Tech Fun initially saw very low layer adhesion with i180, but fortunately (barely) had enough filament left to do another run with 20 degree higher nozzle temperature. It’s possible that you cautioned about the need for higher nozzle temps for better layer adhesion and he just missed it, but I’d think in any sampling situation you’d want to have important guidelines prominently printed on a paper to be included with every shipment.)
Their customer service and website are straight out of the 20th century, circa 1980 (e.g., "call for quote" ... on a roll of filament?).
Hey again, this was an interesting test. I noticed this filament a while ago, glad someone did a proper test of it. For your vice I suggest the Extrudr Flex Hard CF. It should be quite wear resistant and when you tested it, it only started to deform at 150°C. Would you consider testing the Fiberlogy MattFlex 40D? It's my favorite TPU filament and it's quite unique... maybe you can combine the test with the VarioShore TPU filament.
For the vice jaws you should test BASF TPU 64D and TPS 90A.
BASF TPU 64D has high chemical wear, abrasion, impact resistance, while BASF TPS 90A (SEBS based) has non-slip (rubberlike) properties and great layer adhesion
Yep. The filament is expensive... but making videos is also expensive. Sending such tiny amount of sample is almost disrespectful. That said... I didn't see such advantage comparing them to Nylon. What do you think?
They contacted me again, and they want to send whole spools now if I will create another video. They claim that pure wearing is good for these materials, but without sharp edges of shaft. Maybe I will prepare another type of wearing test with rotating shaft or sliding on shaft. Probably I will include nylon in that video, only not sure CF or not CF..
Given their price, I'm having a hard time finding a justification for these filaments.
Yes, the price is one of those thinks which I almost never discuss.
It all depends on your application; I can see a lot of commercial use cases where the cost/kg would be purely secondary to the physical properties. These plastics do have good wear characteristics, combined with good strength, and the temperature resistance of the i180 is excellent for a filament that can be printed on a standard 3D printer. I don’t need anything like this for my home printing, but could easily see using it in some sort of high-use mechanical system.
this reminds me of an old saying: anything for "enterprise use" usually has an "enterprise price tag" :P
depends entirely on what you need.
if you need a gliding surface printed into a model you basically have no other choice.
Very interesting, I use PETG printed bearings on carbon fiber rods, which works very well
Good to know. I hope not on Bambu printers ;-)
Thank you for testing this filament! I was one of the many voices screaming for this.
It can be a great material for applications with non-standard dimensions. Rarely one can find an 7mm round guid rail fro exemple.
A +1 for Polylite ASA 😂
For the vice jaws I use Arnitel 2060 and glass filled nylon. From Arnitel I do have two sets of jaws, One set is printed just with two walls for the more delicate parts.
Ha! Nice one! Since i was one of those who suggested it lol.. i also have the sample bags, but looking at rolls, I150 and 170 are at 35eur, but then it goes to 90-350€ per roll..
Great video! I'm curious to see how the CoPa from polymaker would behave in the friction test.
I printed it keeping it extremely dry and it feels very slippery in the hand.
Oh, great idea. I tried only their CF filaments so far in these kind of tests.
This is a great video, getting those engineering properties like wear resistance and friction coefficient is valuable. Thanks. I printed replacement wear blocks for by dustbin (it slides out) and used PETG. Being easy to replace I printed a spare set for next time but if it were difficult to replace I will come back to your data.
After you ABS question I realized that I use ASA instead of ABS because I thought the properties were similar. Now I’ll have to go a find out.
It can be ASA too, only what brand? I want to do that experimenting with the most popular one.
@@MyTechFun I use Polymaker poly lite ASA and Spectrum ASA. Both on Ender 3v2 with a Sprite extruder and Bambu X1C. The Ender 3v2 is covered. The poly lite ASA I used for functional parts but the Spectrum ASA I only used for ornaments (it’s white) so they didn’t need any particular properties. I did some Acetone vapour smoothing on the Polylite ASA but left it too long so it turned into jelly (5 hours) and distorted when I took it out. It was for a mould so it was useless after that. I’m more careful now.
Based on your previous tests I have switched to polylite ASA. I’m much happier with the polylite ASA than the other brands I was using. So thanks. Very interested to see the layer adhesion versus speed, temp and fan results. I get excellent results from the Bambu X1C with ASA but would like to improve the layer adhesion.
@klave8511 on X1C do you use also infill more than 75% ? I get a lot of spaghetti after 4-5 layers with layer height of .08mm and 100%infill 😮
@@contrezerva9024 I haven’t used 100% infill on with ASA but the only way to get spaghetti is when layers don’t stick or the part moved. If there’s a blockage for a few layers you might get it but then it would stay blocked. Maybe your layer height is too small and the extrusion gets blocked at some spots. Might have the filament getting jammed or tangled.
My understanding is that the tribo-filaments operate better over time as the solid lubricants get deposited on the metal interface over time. I wonder if that's something that could be testable using a setup similar to your abrasion testing apparatus and a strain gauge or something? Would be very curious to see the results of that
I printed my soft jaws in PETG, very rarely have issues with heat transfer into the part when grinding metal using them.
Polymaker ABS should be in your additional testing. Thanks for the great video! I wouldn’t normally get the exposure on filaments like this so it is much appreciated.
Really I hate Igus product where my CNC machine Stepcraft use there lead screws dryspin , but I love i180 for temp resistance I think it made by Nylon material
Nice video. It is not good to see that they only gave younthat much filament because they aren't the easyest ones. I have been printing with i180 and i only cooling it from 10 to 25% of fan speed and for me it is working well.
I wouldn't have expected such little benefit in terms of friction
You might look at Delrin jaws
Very insteresting topic, is a shame that IGUS did not send a couple of spools, there are not many videos of IGUS applications, i hope to see a future comparision with nylon, for the moment i do not see IGUS filament as a great option
I like the igus filament but as you found, getting it to work for things like bushings without machining isn't really possible as the required tolerances are just too tight. (The reamers are a good idea but might come out undersize) It does at least cut nicely on a lathe and works for things like low friction washers straight off the printer.
I also found better layer adhesion at the highest possible temperatures but never got usable results with 180i on the Bambu for anything like a flanged bearing, only flat washers and simple tubes.
There is a high temp food grade option but I think it requires a rather highend printer and costs around 300 euros per spool :)
One other thing for people to keep in mind is that you can't use Igus bushings with non-anodized aluminum.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Does the filament react with un-anodized aluminum? I wonder what that means for aluminum printer parts in the filament path.
For vise jaws smooth ground on one side and a vee on the the other (I don't think you can buy such a thing but I have made them and you can hold a wide range of parts without damage. For really delicate parts I would l suggest leather is the best option as it has much better friction than any plastic. TPU might also be a good option.
Just for reference... how the Sliding linear bearings in petg / ABS / ASA behave? Also did you tested the ABSm? (seems to be the friendly printable cousin of ABS)
I use PCPTE for vice soft jaws, good temp resistance, harder than TPU but softer and grippier than most nylon, and bounces back from indents. To be honest it's probably a better bearing material than these too - I use it for wishbone bearings in race cars.
What settings and printer are you using for PCTPE? My use case is combat robots but I can't stop the parts from warping with my X1c
@@Eric_Wolfe-Schulte don't use any cooling, slow down when you need better cooling, no fans.
@@Rippthrough that's what I've been doing. Experimenting with build surfaces now, bought a tempered glass bed to try that next..
Thanks for all the test, awesome information source!
You know what could be a cool test, a wearing test using resin on resin parts, mainly for robotics and mechanics parts, been using some siraya tech blu for some gears I had to make but would love to know how other resins deal with it.
Hey, may I make a huge request? Could you please put up a simple graphic after each test that, at the very least, displays the result of each filament? Trying to keep track of each filament and how they relate to each other is impossible for my brain. It would be so helpful. Thank you.
I spoke to soon, I forgot about your analysis at the end. Showing the summary after the actual test would be nice though too.
please also try i190 (and order more free samples for good measure hehehe) would be interesting to see if the printed filament also has the potential to be as good as their dry bearings. Maybe a LM8UU vs. the Igus version vs. printed Igus version would be a cool video
Normally the friction has to be higher on igus in order to get selflibricated. A wear test with 1000x cycles will provide more accurate results
so the I150 clearly is PLA now the question is what is the i180 made off
To me i150 is more like PETG (according to print specs), i180 is more like ASA.
The amount of filament is ridiculous. Seems, it's selling too badly and the manufacturer has to economy even on self advertisement.
They contacted me after the video, they would like to send full spools (i190 included). Maybe I will give another try to these filaments, including some longer testings too.
Great videos as always
So your conclusion is that Nylon is superior and cheaper option than iglidur (even abrasion resistance)?
No, that's something I want to test in very near future.
I use polylite ABS myself.
Thank you SO MUCH for your thorough investigations ! This was yet another great contribution to the community, I've already used your sheets for stress calculation parameters and can't stress enough how big of a positive impact you're making to everyone! Thanks!
When I’m communicating with producers they are mostly always arrogant. I recommended you many times in the past and it is sad to see how IGUS handled it.
Thanks for the effort testing it for us!
Talking about low friction...did you ever try POM filament?
You could do consistent pulling with 3D printer itself.
Also kinda missed testing of that sliding bearing printed in regular materials.
Thanks for the test!
Thanks!
I would only imagine using IGLIDUR filament for printed sliding joints, like ball or Oldham couplings (it is what it's known for, right)? Not for hooks.
But with so few* abrasion tests it's kind of hard to tell the conclusive answer - is it better than PETG/ASA for this purpose?
*very few tests and some iffy ones - like the one with the badly fitted, rocking pin that dug into the material :)
The way I understood it the pin was rocking by design.
@@TNX255 Perhaps but then what real life application does it test?
@@DailyFrankPeter Can't really think of one off the top of my head. But then again cars' top speeds are tested too and they have very little real life value as well, it only tells about its maximum capabilities.
@@TNX255 My point is that IGLIDURs perk is supposed to be self-lubrication/abrasion resistance (judging by the huge range of IGUS drop-in sliding replacements for mechanical bearings). Hence abrasion/friction tests in the vid make total sense.
OTOH, if the test tool bites into the material that's more like shearing testing (I think).
Can bambu lab a1 print i151?
Skimpy samples 😮
for jaws - copper
Thanks!
Thank you!
Why not use the built in sensor to change to be filament
Always so great test, thanks 👍
Have you done any references run with other materials in the wear resistance rig?
This? th-cam.com/video/Vg-FcCrVrZY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MyTechFun
@@MyTechFun hehe, obviously, must have missed that somehow, thanks 👍👍👍
You know you can buy the filament too, it’s not mandatory that the company sends you free stuff
Just to clear something: Sometimes I do, when I think the filament is worth it. I don't need so many filaments. From video I earn approx 5 $, no affiliate links in most cases. Additionally I have to work on it several days. So, as you can see, it is not "free".