Excellent modification and result. 👏👏👍😀 Sent over from Jon’s Workshop. Glad he recommended you. Going through your previous posts and enjoying them. Delighted to subscribe.
Hi we are RDG TOOLS a Model Engineering tool company based in Mytholmroyd West Yorkshire. We sell new and used tools. We also own the Myford Lathes Brand. We took over Myford around 12 years ago. Both company's are in the same building and we are open to the public. We are still building new Myford lathes and refurbished Myford lathes.
On the S7 lathe cross slide, there should be a bush mounted on the cross slide lead screw, just at the back of the black ally casting. The bush has a small grub screw in its side wall. If you butt the bush up to the back face if the ally casting and then tighten the grub screw, you can set your own desired amount of ‘free play’ at the indexing dial. This is how Myford engineered it. It’s difficult to explain without making a video, but to others who may have the same issue, it might be a good idea to have a look at the manufacturers own solution, and understand its function before going down the modification route.
Yes the bush you refer to is not actually a bush but a screw on block if you like. It has a brass or copper slug & then the grub screw. The slug being to not damage the threads with the screw. That was not an issue i had. My issue was side to side play. Which the new bush has eliminated now. Every time i operated it there was rattling side to side. Perfect now.
Excellent down-to-earth decription of the Super 7. With regard to the tailstock, Geo. H. Thomas describes a tailstock micrometer in his book "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual" which you may find useful.
I have the same lathe same problem, great fix, i will do mine also, your accent, i'm sure you are from the Midlands, Worksop area, , you speak just like my dad, Cheers from Australia.
I hope you don't mind some input. It seems at the hobby level it's not more widely known that bronze in most of the common alloys requires hardened shafting to use it as a bushing. That feed screw shaft may or may not be hardened but it's easy enough to check with a file. It can be used with softer shafting if it's kept very well lubricated. For proper engineering and design you always want the cheapest and easiest part to replace to wear out first. In this case it would of course be that bushing. With unhardened parts and less than ideal lubrication then soft brass or cast iron would be the better choice for bushings. Was that grease you used to lube the feed screw? If so it's one of the worst you can use for very good logical reasons. Grease retains any cutting swarf but also the wear particles just from using the parts. Those get continuously recycled back through the parts and greatly increase the wear rates that then accelerate the wear even more. Oil when used often enough tends to help wash that out and it helps to flush the parts bearing areas clean. Dark or a black oil color is a sure sign of not oiling often enough to keep the lubricating oil between the parts clean enough. And it's that contamination that helps to wear the parts out. For anyone owning a ML 7 or Super 7 I'd judge this book as non optional. www.teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual/ It was expertly written for and about users of the Myford lathes. One section deals specifically about adding a hand wheel dial for your tail stock that can be zeroed at any position. It's one of the very best books I own and I don't even have a Myford lathe. There's also two designs within it for your lathe for either a lever operated tool or the same but much more complicated lever operated top slide used while single pointing threads. Even the highly desirable Hardinge HLV-H lathe famed for it's ease when thread cutting uses much the same design for a lever retractable top slide. Hemingway Kit's offers the parts for this. www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Geared_and_Retracting_Topslide_for_Myford_S7.html The linked to book would also be required for the complete machining instructions.
Thank you for your lengthy input. The leadscrew shaft is hardened. The Myford lathes specify no grease. There are oiling points all over the machine, total loss system. It can be a bit messy at times wiping up oil drips. I have a oil gun specifically for the job, it looks more like a grease gun. I did see a lever type cross slide that someone had made for the Super 7 . I have never done any screw cutting & probably will never do. Probable because i have lots of taps & dies in most threads. Although never say never i guess. Again thank you very much for your input.
Hi. I built the control panel & used a ten turn potentiometer also fitted jog for slow setup. E- stop too. The VFD is a Omron which I bought used. But has so many parameters to adjust. It also has torque boost , so it can be very powerful at slow speeds. Hope you get a suitable setup.I went for a 1.5hp motor , but only because the Omron was 1.1kw. A 1hp is ample for a small lathe. Regards . Steve.
Hi David. I had 3mm removed from it. So far i have done a lot of hard work with it & not had any trouble with strength. Also removed about the same from each tool holder underneath. That way it will take the 16mm tooling, which in my view are more robust.
Hi yes the motor is a 3phase 1.5 hp from Machine mart. The inverter i bought from ebay for i think £70 used . To run so slow i put the lathe in back gear mode. Then just turn down the frequency on the inverter to get the speed i require.Not sure about the import VFD setup, but the omron has torque boost built in & gives high torque at low Hz. Hope this helps you.
@@Steviegtr52 yes thanks. 1.5 is really high for a super 7. Its recommended to not use more than .75hp, and many do 1hp.. you're the first I've seen at 1.5.
@@rickywoodcock7222 Yes Ricky it was 3mm. Had some stick from forum i am a member of. But it works great with the bigger toolpost. Allows up to 16mm tooling. Although i did also have to shave a bit off the bottom of each toolholder.
I just got a used Myford S7 and the cross feed lever is locked up. Any idea what would cause that? I havent torn it apart yet, but maybe this is a common problem?!
I have not had any jam ups on mine. The cross feed is activated by the small button low down on the front of the carriage. If you get really stuck i have a few diagrams of the whole machine. I could mail them to you in PDF format..
Hi Anthony. Yes I suspected you had one with the 3 phase questions. Great machine. What year is it. Any idea. They did the early version & then a slightly different one later on. I think mine is circa 1977ish & is the super 7B. If you need anything like a manual I have one in PDF format. No problem sending you a copy. Steve.
Excellent modification and result. 👏👏👍😀 Sent over from Jon’s Workshop. Glad he recommended you. Going through your previous posts and enjoying them. Delighted to subscribe.
Thanks you for the comments & the sub.
Steve.
Hi we are RDG TOOLS a Model Engineering tool company based in Mytholmroyd West Yorkshire. We sell new and used tools.
We also own the Myford Lathes Brand. We took over Myford around 12 years ago. Both company's are in the same building and we are open to the public. We are still building new Myford lathes and refurbished Myford lathes.
Thanks for that. I am only down the road in Leeds. I have bought quite a bit of stuff from both your outlets.
@@Steviegtr52 No problem Stevie keep up the good work.
One of George Thomas’ books has plans for installing thrust and radial bearings on a myford xslide. I copied it for a Logan and it worked really well
Thanks for that. I have seen various vids of that been done.
Regards.
Steve.
Great work sir I’ve just got lathe similar to your a 1998 model so interesting to watch your cross slide modifications 💯👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks for the comment. The mod i made was very successful, It removed the side play in the shaft.
Thanks for explaining everything so clearly, I'm learning so much when I watch your videos 👍
What the hell had this got to do with lath mods? Scammers be gone!!!
Lovely set up mate absolutely spot on
Many thanks for that.
On the S7 lathe cross slide, there should be a bush mounted on the cross slide lead screw, just at the back of the black ally casting. The bush has a small grub screw in its side wall. If you butt the bush up to the back face if the ally casting and then tighten the grub screw, you can set your own desired amount of ‘free play’ at the indexing dial. This is how Myford engineered it.
It’s difficult to explain without making a video, but to others who may have the same issue, it might be a good idea to have a look at the manufacturers own solution, and understand its function before going down the modification route.
Yes the bush you refer to is not actually a bush but a screw on block if you like. It has a brass or copper slug & then the grub screw. The slug being to not damage the threads with the screw. That was not an issue i had. My issue was side to side play. Which the new bush has eliminated now. Every time i operated it there was rattling side to side. Perfect now.
OK, I understand. Thanks for the update.@@Steviegtr52
You have really good lighting in your workshop. Sleeve nut idea is good. A good improvement with the bushing.
Thanks for the comment.
Good lighting coz his cool son set him up with some awesome led lighting 🤓
@@bigirch690 Haha yes e did. It's like Blackpool now.
Excellent down-to-earth decription of the Super 7.
With regard to the tailstock, Geo. H. Thomas describes a tailstock micrometer in his book "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual" which you may find useful.
Thanks for that. I have used it quite a lot recently to drill to a certain depth.
I have the same lathe same problem, great fix, i will do mine also, your accent, i'm sure you are from the Midlands, Worksop area, , you speak just like my dad, Cheers from Australia.
Hi Michael. No I am from Leeds in Yorkshire. Regards.
Also thank for the subscription to my channel.
I was considering the Tesla motor mod, what’s your view? Is your mod better?
Out at mo. Will reply in about half hour.
Hi Alan I have answered you on the other question you asked . Show us your workshop.
Regards.
Steve.
I hope you don't mind some input. It seems at the hobby level it's not more widely known that bronze in most of the common alloys requires hardened shafting to use it as a bushing. That feed screw shaft may or may not be hardened but it's easy enough to check with a file. It can be used with softer shafting if it's kept very well lubricated. For proper engineering and design you always want the cheapest and easiest part to replace to wear out first. In this case it would of course be that bushing. With unhardened parts and less than ideal lubrication then soft brass or cast iron would be the better choice for bushings.
Was that grease you used to lube the feed screw? If so it's one of the worst you can use for very good logical reasons. Grease retains any cutting swarf but also the wear particles just from using the parts. Those get continuously recycled back through the parts and greatly increase the wear rates that then accelerate the wear even more. Oil when used often enough tends to help wash that out and it helps to flush the parts bearing areas clean. Dark or a black oil color is a sure sign of not oiling often enough to keep the lubricating oil between the parts clean enough. And it's that contamination that helps to wear the parts out.
For anyone owning a ML 7 or Super 7 I'd judge this book as non optional. www.teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual/ It was expertly written for and about users of the Myford lathes. One section deals specifically about adding a hand wheel dial for your tail stock that can be zeroed at any position. It's one of the very best books I own and I don't even have a Myford lathe. There's also two designs within it for your lathe for either a lever operated tool or the same but much more complicated lever operated top slide used while single pointing threads. Even the highly desirable Hardinge HLV-H lathe famed for it's ease when thread cutting uses much the same design for a lever retractable top slide. Hemingway Kit's offers the parts for this. www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Geared_and_Retracting_Topslide_for_Myford_S7.html The linked to book would also be required for the complete machining instructions.
Thank you for your lengthy input. The leadscrew shaft is hardened. The Myford lathes specify no grease. There are oiling points all over the machine, total loss system. It can be a bit messy at times wiping up oil drips. I have a oil gun specifically for the job, it looks more like a grease gun. I did see a lever type cross slide that someone had made for the Super 7 . I have never done any screw cutting & probably will never do. Probable because i have lots of taps & dies in most threads. Although never say never i guess.
Again thank you very much for your input.
Just another point. Phosphur bronze is a good material to use because it absorbes oil. Brass does not. .
Great work. Did you build or buy the control panel? I’m going for a vfd setup just figuring what bits to buy.
Hi. I built the control panel & used a ten turn potentiometer also fitted jog for slow setup. E- stop too. The VFD is a Omron which I bought used. But has so many parameters to adjust. It also has torque boost , so it can be very powerful at slow speeds. Hope you get a suitable setup.I went for a 1.5hp motor , but only because the Omron was 1.1kw. A 1hp is ample for a small lathe. Regards . Steve.
Hi Steve, how much did you have machined off the top slide to fit that toolpost? Great video.
Hi David. I had 3mm removed from it. So far i have done a lot of hard work with it & not had any trouble with strength. Also removed about the same from each tool holder underneath. That way it will take the 16mm tooling, which in my view are more robust.
I want your motor and vfd setup! I cant believe how slow it can go. Great for making rings/inlays etc. Can you share the details more?
Hi yes the motor is a 3phase 1.5 hp from Machine mart. The inverter i bought from ebay for i think £70 used . To run so slow i put the lathe in back gear mode. Then just turn down the frequency on the inverter to get the speed i require.Not sure about the import VFD setup, but the omron has torque boost built in & gives high torque at low Hz. Hope this helps you.
@@Steviegtr52 yes thanks. 1.5 is really high for a super 7. Its recommended to not use more than .75hp, and many do 1hp.. you're the first I've seen at 1.5.
@@yomama5785 I have not regreted fitting the big motor. Superb in use & never let me down.
Enjoy your content, SUBSCRIBED
quick question.. how much did you remove off your top slide ?
Thanks R
Cancel that.. just seen a earlier reply of 3mm
@@rickywoodcock7222 Yes Ricky it was 3mm. Had some stick from forum i am a member of. But it works great with the bigger toolpost. Allows up to 16mm tooling. Although i did also have to shave a bit off the bottom of each toolholder.
Interesting about the pin and the cross feed.
If you mean the way it knocks off the feed. Yes took me a while to discover what it did
I just got a used Myford S7 and the cross feed lever is locked up. Any idea what would cause that? I havent torn it apart yet, but maybe this is a common problem?!
I have not had any jam ups on mine. The cross feed is activated by the small button low down on the front of the carriage. If you get really stuck i have a few diagrams of the whole machine. I could mail them to you in PDF format..
I have the super 7
Hi Anthony. Yes I suspected you had one with the 3 phase questions. Great machine. What year is it. Any idea. They did the early version & then a slightly different one later on. I think mine is circa 1977ish & is the super 7B. If you need anything like a manual I have one in PDF format. No problem sending you a copy.
Steve.