Thank you for that. My gearbox was having problems and it was difficult to dismantle. Your precise documentation helped me to get things apart. I really didn't want to use Brutus Forsus in case I broke something. Success!
All I need to do now is modify my quick change toolpost off the Faircut Junior. That or replace all of my tooling to suit the 4 way that came with the Myford. I've had a first go with a piece of HSS, but the results were underwhelming. I'm used to carbide inserts :-(
Fantastic. Many thanks for this Bob. Perfect text and wonderfully clear photos. This answers all the questions that you don't get answers for in the existing literature, including Myford manuals. Just one small question if I may: when I took my gearbox off (for bed regrind) there was no spacer strip between it and the bed. Should there be or have I misunderstood? The leadscrew seems to align ok without, but it's difficult to assess it accurately as it's so long (long bed) and therefore rather flexible at the RH end until the bearing goes back on. Part No. 230 does not feature in my original Super 7 manual diagram & list, but it does in the separate non-original QC Gearbox one. Super 7, Serial No. SKL 144495D.
If I remember rightly, the spacer strip is there to stand the gearbox off the bed so that it accurately lines up with the leadscrew shaft. I can only surmise that they found that, to get a milled mating surface on the Super 7 bed (as opposed to the ML7), they ended up having to machine away more of the raw casting than they first expected, and the packing plate was a cheap remedy. My concern would be, with the gearbox slightly cocked backwards, when the carriage is up the headstock end of the leadscrew and near to the box, it might cause the shaft to wear into the out-of-alignment bushings (over time). If you are finding that everything seems to be running smoothly without it, I wouldn't fret about it too much. It may be that it was only a problem on the short bed Super 7, which doesn't occur on your long bed version. If it does bother you that it's not there, it is just a simple piece of plate that can be easily made.
@@beachcomberbob3496 Many thanks for this reply. I'm still rebuilding after the regrind and I did check the top of the gearbox with the ELS level. You're right, it is very slightly cocked backwards. However, the saddle tracks smoothly right up to the headstock, winding the leadscrew manually with the clamp engaged, no undue resistance, and I didn't notice any bearing wear when installing the leadscrew. Hmm. I see the spacer strip is available from Myford at £10 so I think I'll grab that and see if it changes anything. Re your point about the long bed. Maybe the extra flexibility of the leadscrew compensates for any slight misalignment, or is that engineering heresy?
@@alanandrews3413 No - not heresy at all. When owning vintage equipment, some slack is always going to creep in. Just keep your gibs tight and take up the backlash! I would rather have my old Super 7 (which is as old as I am 😀) than anything being produced (for the same comparative price point) these days. Same with my Centec mill. By heck, they knew how to build 'em back then. Seriously though, the only thing I'd ever consider replacing with new parts are lead screws and nuts, although I have put up a video on a 'backlash eliminator' I made for the cross-slide. Perhaps you'll post up a video of your 'baby' when it's all done?
@@beachcomberbob3496 I don't know about posting a video. It's not a restoration, just a necessary dismantling and rebuild for getting the bed reground. As a self-taught amateur with no engineering training I've got nothing to show that videos like yours don't cover 10 times better. Incidentally, in case it's of interest, the regrind was done by Myford/RDG and they've done an excellent job, just skimming off the minimum necessary for trueing up, not worrying about the odd blemish that it's picked up over 60 years. It had become noticeably looser at the headstock end. They were most helpful, explaining in advance that if it had been reground before there might not be enough material left to stay within tolerances. All ok, but surely a warning there for buyers. They even set up the saddle for me. Smoother than it's ever been, and along the whole length of course. I'd forgotten what that was like.
There is a Myford metric conversion kit out there, but you'll need a big wallet. There are better men than I on TH-cam that can demonstrate cutting metric threads on imperial machines, I just can't think of their names of the top of my head.
Hi Beachcomer Bob, I have damaged tumbler gear i need to replace please can you advise me how you remove the taper pin in situ from the tumbler gear so you can take out the shaft ?
In my case, the taper pin had been hammered in, so I had to drill it out. But generally, if you examine both ends of the pin and determine which is the smaller diameter, it should tap out easily with a hammer and punch. If you can't make out which end is which, try a few gentle taps at either end. It should become obvious that one of them is moving the pin out.
@@beachcomberbob3496, thank you for your prompt reply but can only see one end of it and wo during if it was a blind hole , I will investigate further. Regards Peter Baker
@@PeterBaker-hp1np Sometimes it can be hard to see the pin if it's flush with it's surroundings, but it isn't a blind hole. Use a drift (parallel punch) of a smaller diameter, if you have one. Like I said, it shouldn't take great blows to move it if you are hitting the correct end. Of course, if some swine has hammered it in to the point of peining over the end, you will have to drill it out like I did. In that case, you do have to get in there at an awkward angle, but it is do-able.
@@beachcomberbob3496 , Good afternoon Bob I managed to source a new transfer gear [2 teeth broken off the original] I had to drill it part way through then it punched out, replaced gear and new 20 tooth gear on layshaft [ 1 broken tooth] and fitted brand new input shaft [splines damaged in 3 places] Thanks with the help off your video it all went back together very well. Many Thanks for Your Help Bob. Regards Peter.
Thank you for that. My gearbox was having problems and it was difficult to dismantle. Your precise documentation helped me to get things apart. I really didn't want to use Brutus Forsus in case I broke something. Success!
Make'm when they broke . Nice job making things you needed.
👍
Watching in Alabama!
That's what lathes are for - sticking it to the man. Why buy when you can make, eh?
Congratulation on a wonderful job. you really brought that one back from pretty far away.
Soon the chips will be flying!
All I need to do now is modify my quick change toolpost off the Faircut Junior. That or replace all of my tooling to suit the 4 way that came with the Myford. I've had a first go with a piece of HSS, but the results were underwhelming. I'm used to carbide inserts :-(
Great work once again Cheers and Thanks.
The gearbox was so much easier the second time around. I think I could strip it blindfolded now.
Very nice job, well done. Thanks.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Fantastic. Many thanks for this Bob. Perfect text and wonderfully clear photos. This answers all the questions that you don't get answers for in the existing literature, including Myford manuals. Just one small question if I may: when I took my gearbox off (for bed regrind) there was no spacer strip between it and the bed. Should there be or have I misunderstood? The leadscrew seems to align ok without, but it's difficult to assess it accurately as it's so long (long bed) and therefore rather flexible at the RH end until the bearing goes back on. Part No. 230 does not feature in my original Super 7 manual diagram & list, but it does in the separate non-original QC Gearbox one. Super 7, Serial No. SKL 144495D.
If I remember rightly, the spacer strip is there to stand the gearbox off the bed so that it accurately lines up with the leadscrew shaft. I can only surmise that they found that, to get a milled mating surface on the Super 7 bed (as opposed to the ML7), they ended up having to machine away more of the raw casting than they first expected, and the packing plate was a cheap remedy. My concern would be, with the gearbox slightly cocked backwards, when the carriage is up the headstock end of the leadscrew and near to the box, it might cause the shaft to wear into the out-of-alignment bushings (over time). If you are finding that everything seems to be running smoothly without it, I wouldn't fret about it too much. It may be that it was only a problem on the short bed Super 7, which doesn't occur on your long bed version. If it does bother you that it's not there, it is just a simple piece of plate that can be easily made.
@@beachcomberbob3496 Many thanks for this reply. I'm still rebuilding after the regrind and I did check the top of the gearbox with the ELS level. You're right, it is very slightly cocked backwards. However, the saddle tracks smoothly right up to the headstock, winding the leadscrew manually with the clamp engaged, no undue resistance, and I didn't notice any bearing wear when installing the leadscrew. Hmm. I see the spacer strip is available from Myford at £10 so I think I'll grab that and see if it changes anything. Re your point about the long bed. Maybe the extra flexibility of the leadscrew compensates for any slight misalignment, or is that engineering heresy?
@@alanandrews3413 No - not heresy at all. When owning vintage equipment, some slack is always going to creep in. Just keep your gibs tight and take up the backlash! I would rather have my old Super 7 (which is as old as I am 😀) than anything being produced (for the same comparative price point) these days. Same with my Centec mill. By heck, they knew how to build 'em back then. Seriously though, the only thing I'd ever consider replacing with new parts are lead screws and nuts, although I have put up a video on a 'backlash eliminator' I made for the cross-slide. Perhaps you'll post up a video of your 'baby' when it's all done?
@@beachcomberbob3496 I don't know about posting a video. It's not a restoration, just a necessary dismantling and rebuild for getting the bed reground. As a self-taught amateur with no engineering training I've got nothing to show that videos like yours don't cover 10 times better. Incidentally, in case it's of interest, the regrind was done by Myford/RDG and they've done an excellent job, just skimming off the minimum necessary for trueing up, not worrying about the odd blemish that it's picked up over 60 years. It had become noticeably looser at the headstock end. They were most helpful, explaining in advance that if it had been reground before there might not be enough material left to stay within tolerances. All ok, but surely a warning there for buyers. They even set up the saddle for me. Smoother than it's ever been, and along the whole length of course. I'd forgotten what that was like.
That was a very informative, and the music was just right.🤪 thankyou
I know it is kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good website to watch newly released movies online?
@Rylan Kody Try flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Rylan Kody I would suggest Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
Bloody brilliant
Great work! I am also in the same progress, still figuring out how to cut metric threads. Any ideas?
There is a Myford metric conversion kit out there, but you'll need a big wallet. There are better men than I on TH-cam that can demonstrate cutting metric threads on imperial machines, I just can't think of their names of the top of my head.
Hi Beachcomer Bob, I have damaged tumbler gear i need to replace please can you advise me how you remove the taper pin in situ from the tumbler gear so you can take out the shaft ?
In my case, the taper pin had been hammered in, so I had to drill it out. But generally, if you examine both ends of the pin and determine which is the smaller diameter, it should tap out easily with a hammer and punch. If you can't make out which end is which, try a few gentle taps at either end. It should become obvious that one of them is moving the pin out.
@@beachcomberbob3496, thank you for your prompt reply but can only see one end of it and wo during if it was a blind hole , I will investigate further.
Regards Peter Baker
@@PeterBaker-hp1np Sometimes it can be hard to see the pin if it's flush with it's surroundings, but it isn't a blind hole. Use a drift (parallel punch) of a smaller diameter, if you have one. Like I said, it shouldn't take great blows to move it if you are hitting the correct end. Of course, if some swine has hammered it in to the point of peining over the end, you will have to drill it out like I did. In that case, you do have to get in there at an awkward angle, but it is do-able.
@@beachcomberbob3496 , Good afternoon Bob I managed to source a new transfer gear [2 teeth broken off the original] I had to drill it part way through then it punched out, replaced gear and new 20 tooth gear on layshaft [ 1 broken tooth] and fitted brand new input shaft [splines damaged in 3 places] Thanks with the help off your video it all went back together very well. Many Thanks for Your Help Bob.
Regards Peter.
@@PeterBaker-hp1np I was only passing on what little I know. Thanks for the update, and happy machining!
All you need now is a 34 & 33 tooth gear & you can cut metric as well as imperial.........
BORING