Hi Absolute pleasure in watching an engineer who knows what he is doing, doing things the correct way, support the two castings with central bush shows the experience and depth of your knowledge , having a mandrel press makes it perfect. If you could share a little more detail on the adjust of the clutch itself I would really appreciate I have a issue with my Dad's lathe he bought in 1953 and handed it on to me, the clutch slips and up until now I have been blind on the inner workings. peter Scott
Hi Peter, thank for the comment, really appreciated, to adjust the clutch is quite easy. There’s a slotted screw at the root of one pulleys, remove this and there is a grub screw deep in shaft, you may need rotate shaft to find the screw. Turn clockwise to adjust, only enough to tighten the clutch. If you check out the video again you can see how it all works. If I can find some time I will put a short video up showing how I do it. Cheers Brian
Hello Brian, Thank you for a very instructing video. I have recently bought a 1954 mrk. 1, where the clutch is stuck, I cannot disengage it. Now I have an idea how to take it apart. Thank you :-)
Of course thumbs up. You know you stuff and are very calm and relaxed as you work. Young-un's, learn from Brian's years of experience, please. 👍👍👍👍👍 Also, come on guys, 7 views and only 1 thumbs up? Got to support our Brother from across the pond!
Hi Brian, my name is Ben and found your video very interesting and in depth. I was wondering if it would be possible to answer a question for me? I believe I have the same clutch system on my myford super 7 as well. In your video at 1.25 -1.33 mins you place a ball bearing inside the spindle shaft, it would appear that mine is missing the ball bearing and I was wondering if you knew the size of the ball bearing which you used? Thank you regards Ben
Ben, I’ve got a box of clutch spares with 2 ball bearings in, they measure .215 “ 5.4mm. I would get a bunch of ball’s about that size and use the one that is the best fit in the hole. I guess 1/4” but not sure. Measure the hole. Good luck. Cheers Brian
@@500dbd34 perfect thank you Brian, I found a ball bearing and put it in, I was having a bit of trouble with the clutch/still am, it works for so long then stops. It will engage for say 10mins then when you want to disengage the clutch it doesn’t always stop, so I was wondering if that could of been down to the ball bearing being the wrong size or something else. I adjusted the clutch in the pulley with the grub screw just enough so it bites when engaged and when you pull the lever out to disengage it. But like I say after a bit of time it either won’t fully engage or disengage. Is this a common problem with these? Or do you think I might be doing something wrong 😂 thanks regards Ben
@@fliberdobado Myford's drawings of the Mk 1 clutch don't show a ball in that position. Instead they have a round-pointed hex-headed grubscrew adjusted up against the sliding clutch 'ramp', and then another hex-headed grubscrew inserted and tightened on top of the first, to lock it in place. This means that to adjust the clutch action you must remove one entirely, to get at the other. But it also means there's less likelihood of it working loose in the way you report. Both screws are 1/4-inch BSF.
Brian, That oil you put into the headstock reservoir why the site glass... I have this model and it doesn't have any opening in there to travel into the site glass... I have a small tube that is under the Screw the holds the cap in place..just above the site glass...have you check it goes into the site glass?
Hi, In the video at 12.40 I am filling the headstock bearing reservoir with oil. When I open the valve (the cap nearest me) oil drips down onto the bearing, you can see the oil dripping down through the site glass. I hope that clear. Cheers B
@@macgolf1194 Of the two screwcaps on top of the oil reservoir, the central one is for filling, and the one nearer the operator opens a tapered 'needle' valve that controls the rate of oil flow into the sight glass and on into the bearing. If you cannot see oil descending through the sight glass, it's vtal you don't run your lathe until you have cleared that path. The recommended oil is hydraulic H.32. I suggest your oil reservoir might need a thorough cleaning (after removing both screcaps and the cover). You might also undo the sight glass and give everything a blow-through from there.
Mark, I can't remember the actual size, I took the originals to my bearing supplier and matched them for me, I did ask for good quality bearings as there are some cheap and nasty bearings about. I think they supplied SKF. Cheers B
@@500dbd34 The three oilite originals are each 1" OD, 3/4" ID, 3/4" length. Thank you Brian for this video, - there is precious little information still available or accessible about the original ('Mk 1') version of the Super 7.
Hi Brian my name is Jaques I am from Sourh Africa and I have the same Mayford lathe and would like to know do you mabe have a workshop manual with a parts list or any help on this mine is in not a great condition but I whant to restore it so it looks as good as yours if you be abel to assist me I will be very grateful.
Hi Jaques, the manual for your Super 7 is available from Myford England. Web site is www.myford.co.uk. Lots of spares available also. Good luck with you restoration. Cheers Brian
The facebook group 'Myford Lathes' keeps a load of useful downloadable information in their 'Files' area. EDIT: Doh! I just checked, and you've joined that group since you posted. Good!
Hi Absolute pleasure in watching an engineer who knows what he is doing, doing things the correct way, support the two castings with central bush shows the experience and depth of your knowledge , having a mandrel press makes it perfect. If you could share a little more detail on the adjust of the clutch itself I would really appreciate I have a issue with my Dad's lathe he bought in 1953 and handed it on to me, the clutch slips and up until now I have been blind on the inner workings.
peter Scott
Hi Peter, thank for the comment, really appreciated, to adjust the clutch is quite easy. There’s a slotted screw at the root of one pulleys, remove this and there is a grub screw deep in shaft, you may need rotate shaft to find the screw. Turn clockwise to adjust, only enough to tighten the clutch. If you check out the video again you can see how it all works.
If I can find some time I will put a short video up showing how I do it. Cheers Brian
Hello Brian, Thank you for a very instructing video. I have recently bought a 1954 mrk. 1, where the clutch is stuck, I cannot disengage it. Now I have an idea how to take it apart. Thank you :-)
Glad you enjoyed it.Cheers B
Of course thumbs up. You know you stuff and are very calm and relaxed as you work. Young-un's, learn from Brian's years of experience, please. 👍👍👍👍👍 Also, come on guys, 7 views and only 1 thumbs up? Got to support our Brother from across the pond!
Thanks for the comment, Cheers B
a trick : you can watch movies at kaldroStream. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Liam Jamison Yup, have been watching on kaldrostream for months myself :)
@Liam Jamison Definitely, I've been using KaldroStream for years myself :D
Interesting idea. Question. I was always taught that the shaft in a needle bearing needs to be hardened. Is the myford shaft hardened?
Dev, thanks for the comment, i'm not sure if the shaft is hardend, i guess it is but I never checked it.
Cheers B
Hi Brian, my name is Ben and found your video very interesting and in depth. I was wondering if it would be possible to answer a question for me? I believe I have the same clutch system on my myford super 7 as well. In your video at 1.25 -1.33 mins you place a ball bearing inside the spindle shaft, it would appear that mine is missing the ball bearing and I was wondering if you knew the size of the ball bearing which you used? Thank you regards Ben
Hi Ben, I’ll get back to you soon, away at the moment. Cheers B
Ben, I’ve got a box of clutch spares with 2 ball bearings in, they measure .215 “ 5.4mm. I would get a bunch of ball’s about that size and use the one that is the best
fit in the hole. I guess 1/4” but not sure. Measure the hole.
Good luck. Cheers Brian
@@500dbd34 perfect thank you Brian, I found a ball bearing and put it in, I was having a bit of trouble with the clutch/still am, it works for so long then stops. It will engage for say 10mins then when you want to disengage the clutch it doesn’t always stop, so I was wondering if that could of been down to the ball bearing being the wrong size or something else. I adjusted the clutch in the pulley with the grub screw just enough so it bites when engaged and when you pull the lever out to disengage it. But like I say after a bit of time it either won’t fully engage or disengage. Is this a common problem with these? Or do you think I might be doing something wrong 😂 thanks regards Ben
@@fliberdobado Myford's drawings of the Mk 1 clutch don't show a ball in that position. Instead they have a round-pointed hex-headed grubscrew adjusted up against the sliding clutch 'ramp', and then another hex-headed grubscrew inserted and tightened on top of the first, to lock it in place. This means that to adjust the clutch action you must remove one entirely, to get at the other. But it also means there's less likelihood of it working loose in the way you report. Both screws are 1/4-inch BSF.
Brian, That oil you put into the headstock reservoir why the site glass... I have this model and it doesn't have any opening in there to travel into the site glass... I have a small tube that is under the Screw the holds the cap in place..just above the site glass...have you check it goes into the site glass?
Hi,
In the video at 12.40 I am filling the headstock bearing reservoir with oil.
When I open the valve (the cap nearest me) oil drips down onto the bearing, you can see the oil dripping down through the site glass. I hope that clear.
Cheers B
@@500dbd34
When i do that no oil drips down .
i cant see any opening for that to work .
@@macgolf1194 It may need to be cleaned. oil should be seen dripping hrough the site glass, don't let the bearing run dry.
@@500dbd34
Hi Brian
the reservoir doesn’t appear to have any oil holes in it to allow oil to drain into the site glass ?
Raymond
@@macgolf1194 Of the two screwcaps on top of the oil reservoir, the central one is for filling, and the one nearer the operator opens a tapered 'needle' valve that controls the rate of oil flow into the sight glass and on into the bearing. If you cannot see oil descending through the sight glass, it's vtal you don't run your lathe until you have cleared that path. The recommended oil is hydraulic H.32. I suggest your oil reservoir might need a thorough cleaning (after removing both screcaps and the cover). You might also undo the sight glass and give everything a blow-through from there.
Hi Brian, what size bearing did you use
Mark,
I can't remember the actual size, I took the originals to my bearing supplier and matched them for me, I did ask for good quality bearings as there are some cheap and nasty bearings about. I think they supplied SKF. Cheers B
@@500dbd34 The three oilite originals are each 1" OD, 3/4" ID, 3/4" length. Thank you Brian for this video, - there is precious little information still available or accessible about the original ('Mk 1') version of the Super 7.
@@SloopyJohnG
Thanks for that, I fitted needle roller bearings.
Hi Brian my name is Jaques I am from Sourh Africa and I have the same Mayford lathe and would like to know do you mabe have a workshop manual with a parts list or any help on this mine is in not a great condition but I whant to restore it so it looks as good as yours if you be abel to assist me I will be very grateful.
Also loved what you did with yours definitely going to do the same with mine.
Hi Jaques, the manual for your Super 7 is available from Myford England.
Web site is www.myford.co.uk. Lots of spares available also.
Good luck with you restoration.
Cheers Brian
The facebook group 'Myford Lathes' keeps a load of useful downloadable information in their 'Files' area. EDIT: Doh! I just checked, and you've joined that group since you posted. Good!
Meticulous as usual Brian, thanks for the vid
Cheers,
You can get those bearings with an oil hole in them
I didn’t know that, thanks for letting me know, I’ll check it out with my supplier. May mean another strip down but worth it. Cheers B
Try serial no ba 1212zoh. I believe the oh stands for oil hole