so much great information in that video! Thank you! I have been struggling with photographing my tank with new Radion blues, will definitely try making a scene for it.
From what I have seen on these lights people simply aren't doing the maths - most reefers will get the same PAR from 2 Gen 5 Blue's run on the settings us reefers tend to run as 3 Gen 4's (particularly with the diffusers which most people don't need) Note: Shadowing may be an issue. I also get the impression the Cyan diodes give a really nice extra bit of pop - though I think the red diodes should be 740 (rather than 660) but no one else does this (except I think Orphek did before) - then you can run more red. You are right about aesthetics - they are the best looking option over the tank (except I can't stand the arms - but there are alternatives). This is a REALLY nice upgrade - well done!
Nice upgrade. Two questions: 1- is it easy to open/remove the cover of the water column with the RMS there? 2- where did you bought that lid covering the tank? I also have a RSR250 with two G5 XR15 blues under AB+ template, at 80% intensity and coral growth is amazing. My current lid does not fit anymore. Thanks
Great video! Just wondering, do the colors in the video represent the colors of your lighting setup in real life or is the lighting of your tank way bluer when you look at your tank with your eyes? A lot of videos and pictures on the web look like daylight lighting, while people talk about running there tank really blue (like a ATI blue+ look).
i shoot the video on my custom youtube spectrum which is white to help the iphone auto white balance. But the tank doesn't look overly blue when on sps ab+ specturm. yes its blue dominant but there is some warm tones in there as well
Thanks for the update . I’m getting ready to upgrade as well .i have a similar 36” tank .i was thinking of just adding 2 xr15 blues . You don’t think 2 would have been plenty ?
Juice I think for me, where I have sps end to end, I though that 3 was needed. Also I was running 3 xr15 before and I didn’t want to change the locations of the rms arms because of the custom lid I got built with cutouts for them
Really nice video on the Radions! Is that Kenny with the nice big belly? I’m sure you said it before but what kind of wrasse do you have with the yellow tail? Is it a leopard wrasse? Thanks so much!
Yes it is! Kenny with the fat belly! He eats everything, including any shrimp or pellets that i feed the tank! The wrasse with the yellow tail is a yellow tailed tamarin wrasse.
I am going for 8 x T5 . Many more years will pass until the performance of T5 in terms of spread and spectrum will be beaten. Right now in my opinion the most performance cost effective leds are ATI Straton , Philips CC and Orphek. This or use many small boxes of leds to get decent spread. Enjoy the new lights !
thanks Mihai - i am actually really pleasantly surprised by the gen 5 blues... it actually 'looks' like a t5 tank when you see it in person... so fingers crossed
Those three fixtures are probably the most expensive by 3x in Australia. How a massive company like Philips can’t put out a good light for less than 500 Aud is beyond me.
Brs did some tests where reefbrites already surpass T5s in par and almost identical to it in spread. I currently installed two reefbrites to my kessil a360x and so far i love it.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 I am of the opinion that brs prop up to death reefbrites and kessil for some commercial reason. T5 offers unmatched spread and spectrum which is more important than par . The best leds in terms of spread and spectrum are ATI Straton , Philips CC .
They are nice lights, but not sure if you needed them, but extra money for a diffuser is crazy, my opinion not worth it, the spread is already diffused? Also, turn those baby up 350-500 par !!
Yes I am planning to turn them up gradually after the initial acclimation. The diffuser serve another purpose for me - they act as a hood that shield the eyes a bit from looking directly at the diodes... the tank is in the living room but our home is open concept. we are typically looking up at the lights when having meals and watching TV... the diffusers help with this
when i setup the tank... i started with 2 xr 15, and then added a third ... at that point, it was just easier to buy one additional xr15 instead of selling my two xr15's and then buying 2 xr30s...
I wanted to buy XR 30 pro light but no one could ship it to Saudia Arabia, so I bought hydra 64 and it is magnificent and powerfull with half of the price 😃👍.
I am interested in par levels with the gen 5 blue set at your filming scene settings. I have a feeling that I want to get the blue gen5, but run it a little more white, as the regular gen 5 might not be blue enough for me. But the par needs to be there of course. What are your thoughts?
My reef link all of a sudden did not want to turn blue anymore, so I decided to “upgrade” to Mobius. Basically, the lights wouldn’t synch to the schedule. One light crashes during the upgrade. I factory reset both and it didn’t work. Needless to say, I declined the upgrade on my pumps. So no more Ecotech.
i first measured par with the old lights, and then measured par at different intensities with the gen 5 until i found a setting that was similar to what i had previously, (60% intensity on the gen 5)... i then scaled back to 50%, and did a 2 week acclimation to 60% ...
Interesting, I thought the old rms arms are computable with the gen 5 xr15 because all the older xr15 had their fans facing up. Is that a specific recommendation from Ecotech, or based on experience ? Thanks
It's a must from ecotech they say you need to change the arms that fixes the light to the mount as they're more curved allowing better airflow also meaning the lights sit a little lower to the tank 👍
Good question - I turn off powerheads but keep the return on... otherwise, I lose about an inch of water up the top of the display which affects the readings as well
@@TheBioReef Have you ever tried taking readings with flow on? I do both. Massive difference, especially because of my high surface turbulance. I set my seneye then watch it for 30 seconds. I aim for getting close to my intended Par between 40 to 50% of the fluctuations read. If i set it based on flow off, my numbers end up being rather low.
@@TheBioReef True but heres what i mean. If i want an acro to get 300, i want it to be getting within that 300 range under its normal conditions. Ive had par averages drop horribly just because i have my water boiling at the surface non stop above an area filled with acros even though i measure acceptable par when wavemakers are off. I think this is one of the things not considered when people say like 450 to 500 par. That 500 might just end up being 350ish on average when wav3s are on. Just thinking out loud here. Lol
@@TheBioReefWell we know it does both but i doubt its equally. Well Amro, there's a neat little video for you to query. Not sure many persons have done that. Compared static measurements to running averages. Id love to see if it doesnt matter or makes a boticeabke difference. I kniw for me its different but itd be good for you to do a vid to test it. I always notice though, that to get more hits in my preferred range during waves, i have to bump my intensity up a few points above my static test.
so much great information in that video! Thank you! I have been struggling with photographing my tank with new Radion blues, will definitely try making a scene for it.
Good luck Samantha
This video helped, thank you. I turned the UV to 0 and it helped the video be much more clear.
Always have awesome and informative videos!!! Keep up the good work! Always look forward watching your videos when you upload.
thanks Sergio! best
From what I have seen on these lights people simply aren't doing the maths - most reefers will get the same PAR from 2 Gen 5 Blue's run on the settings us reefers tend to run as 3 Gen 4's (particularly with the diffusers which most people don't need) Note: Shadowing may be an issue.
I also get the impression the Cyan diodes give a really nice extra bit of pop - though I think the red diodes should be 740 (rather than 660) but no one else does this (except I think Orphek did before) - then you can run more red.
You are right about aesthetics - they are the best looking option over the tank (except I can't stand the arms - but there are alternatives).
This is a REALLY nice upgrade - well done!
Thanks Sunny
Nice upgrade
I also have the same lights. Are you running the AB+ schedule and just upping the intensity?
Yep. Right now running at 81%
Nice upgrade. Two questions: 1- is it easy to open/remove the cover of the water column with the RMS there? 2- where did you bought that lid covering the tank? I also have a RSR250 with two G5 XR15 blues under AB+ template, at 80% intensity and coral growth is amazing. My current lid does not fit anymore. Thanks
Diogo Gonçalves I had my cover custom made locally to go around the RMS arms, so very easy to put on or off.
Great video! Just wondering, do the colors in the video represent the colors of your lighting setup in real life or is the lighting of your tank way bluer when you look at your tank with your eyes? A lot of videos and pictures on the web look like daylight lighting, while people talk about running there tank really blue (like a ATI blue+ look).
i shoot the video on my custom youtube spectrum which is white to help the iphone auto white balance. But the tank doesn't look overly blue when on sps ab+ specturm. yes its blue dominant but there is some warm tones in there as well
Thanks for the update . I’m getting ready to upgrade as well .i have a similar 36” tank .i was thinking of just adding 2 xr15 blues .
You don’t think 2 would have been plenty ?
Juice I think for me, where I have sps end to end, I though that 3 was needed. Also I was running 3 xr15 before and I didn’t want to change the locations of the rms arms because of the custom lid I got built with cutouts for them
Really nice video on the Radions! Is that Kenny with the nice big belly? I’m sure you said it before but what kind of wrasse do you have with the yellow tail? Is it a leopard wrasse? Thanks so much!
Yes it is! Kenny with the fat belly! He eats everything, including any shrimp or pellets that i feed the tank! The wrasse with the yellow tail is a yellow tailed tamarin wrasse.
AmroAzul TV thanks much!
Hey Amro, how do you feel about the diffuser now? Are they really worth getting? I hear they increase spread and give flatter par at the surface.
Working on a 6 month review video now should release later today... stay tuned :)
@@TheBioReef How auspicious. Lol. Chevere
How do you like the Blues? Thinking of getting them over the Pro
My corals have never looked better, so yes 👍
Heck yeah..... nice upgrades! 👍🏾
Thanks 👍
I am going for 8 x T5 . Many more years will pass until the performance of T5 in terms of spread and spectrum will be beaten. Right now in my opinion the most performance cost effective leds are ATI Straton , Philips CC and Orphek. This or use many small boxes of leds to get decent spread. Enjoy the new lights !
thanks Mihai - i am actually really pleasantly surprised by the gen 5 blues... it actually 'looks' like a t5 tank when you see it in person... so fingers crossed
Those three fixtures are probably the most expensive by 3x in Australia. How a massive company like Philips can’t put out a good light for less than 500 Aud is beyond me.
Brs did some tests where reefbrites already surpass T5s in par and almost identical to it in spread. I currently installed two reefbrites to my kessil a360x and so far i love it.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 I am of the opinion that brs prop up to death reefbrites and kessil for some commercial reason. T5 offers unmatched spread and spectrum which is more important than par . The best leds in terms of spread and spectrum are ATI Straton , Philips CC .
@@marcelrodriguez2067 nice - i've also heard good things about reefbrites
Nice! I'm interested to see the new ati leds coming out 🦉🍻
i didn't know they were coming with ones... i'll have to give them a look
@@TheBioReef ATI straton I believe. Very similar to the phillps style, but I'm hoping they put out more par!
@@angryowlaquariums40 They do - ig-meeresaquaristik.de/index.php/Thread/6885-ATI-Straton/ - scroll a bit down the page
@@mihaia6026 awesome thanks!
They are nice lights, but not sure if you needed them, but extra money for a diffuser is crazy, my opinion not worth it, the spread is already diffused? Also, turn those baby up 350-500 par !!
Yes I am planning to turn them up gradually after the initial acclimation. The diffuser serve another purpose for me - they act as a hood that shield the eyes a bit from looking directly at the diodes... the tank is in the living room but our home is open concept. we are typically looking up at the lights when having meals and watching TV... the diffusers help with this
Hello! Did you ever consider doing 2 x xr30s instead? Why did you decide to go with 3 x xr15s instead? Thank you!
when i setup the tank... i started with 2 xr 15, and then added a third ... at that point, it was just easier to buy one additional xr15 instead of selling my two xr15's and then buying 2 xr30s...
@@TheBioReef thanks for your response! So if I’m starting from scratch with a rsr250, you would support me doing 2x xr30s?
@@numberhoan that would certainly work and will allow you to use the same lights if you upgrade into a bigger system down the line
I wanted to buy XR 30 pro light but no one could ship it to Saudia Arabia, so I bought hydra 64 and it is magnificent and powerfull with half of the price 😃👍.
Thanks for sharing
I am interested in par levels with the gen 5 blue set at your filming scene settings. I have a feeling that I want to get the blue gen5, but run it a little more white, as the regular gen 5 might not be blue enough for me. But the par needs to be there of course.
What are your thoughts?
It’s really dim - if you want more white AND par, then the gen 5 pro is the way to go
My reef link all of a sudden did not want to turn blue anymore, so I decided to “upgrade” to Mobius. Basically, the lights wouldn’t synch to the schedule. One light crashes during the upgrade. I factory reset both and it didn’t work. Needless to say, I declined the upgrade on my pumps. So no more Ecotech.
I just got mine but not sure how long to acclimate the coral to it, how long is good without starving the corals?
i first measured par with the old lights, and then measured par at different intensities with the gen 5 until i found a setting that was similar to what i had previously, (60% intensity on the gen 5)... i then scaled back to 50%, and did a 2 week acclimation to 60% ...
Thank you
Need to use G5 mounts for your new lights so they don’t over heat.
Interesting, I thought the old rms arms are computable with the gen 5 xr15 because all the older xr15 had their fans facing up. Is that a specific recommendation from
Ecotech, or based on experience ? Thanks
It's a must from ecotech they say you need to change the arms that fixes the light to the mount as they're more curved allowing better airflow also meaning the lights sit a little lower to the tank 👍
@@slywind30 i did change them a month or so ago
Good to know!
Did you measure with flow on or off?
Good question - I turn off powerheads but keep the return on... otherwise, I lose about an inch of water up the top of the display which affects the readings as well
@@TheBioReef Have you ever tried taking readings with flow on? I do both. Massive difference, especially because of my high surface turbulance. I set my seneye then watch it for 30 seconds. I aim for getting close to my intended Par between 40 to 50% of the fluctuations read. If i set it based on flow off, my numbers end up being rather low.
@@StNovaSt i always thought that the flow would end up just averaging out as the waves can both intensify and diffuse the light
@@TheBioReef True but heres what i mean. If i want an acro to get 300, i want it to be getting within that 300 range under its normal conditions. Ive had par averages drop horribly just because i have my water boiling at the surface non stop above an area filled with acros even though i measure acceptable par when wavemakers are off. I think this is one of the things not considered when people say like 450 to 500 par. That 500 might just end up being 350ish on average when wav3s are on. Just thinking out loud here. Lol
@@TheBioReefWell we know it does both but i doubt its equally. Well Amro, there's a neat little video for you to query. Not sure many persons have done that. Compared static measurements to running averages. Id love to see if it doesnt matter or makes a boticeabke difference. I kniw for me its different but itd be good for you to do a vid to test it. I always notice though, that to get more hits in my preferred range during waves, i have to bump my intensity up a few points above my static test.
When you say 60% that's 60 white and 60 blue that's what you r running the lights at
you adjust the overall intensity at 60%, and the indivdual color intensity at 100%... a bit odd, but you get used to it after a while
So no more Acro Hole of death anymore haha.
we will see... nervous laugh
Mobius broke my Gen 4 lights. I bought Red Sea 90s.
Michael Lee yikes - how did that happen
Queen City Reefs: I’ll reach out to them, it’s just time consuming and frustrating. They broke Reef Link and forced me to upgrade. Shame on them.
Queen City Reefs & More glad they fixed the problem for you
Michael Lee curious to how they will resolve this .