OMG Hope! you should definitely do epoxy! It's not hard and it's super light. How nice that you're close to the beach! I'm jealous. I just finished another epoxy project in my kitchen yesterday and the video is going live today. When you start feel free to ask me questions...I'm happy to help. I LOVE home projects.
I purchased 1-inch MDF from a specialty store near me. It cost me around $96 for a 4x10 sheet. I also put a 1/2 lip edge on the bottom side in front of the drawers. Your counters looks amazing!!!
I think i have a whole video on the backsplash. my biggest tip is to make sure where ever you pour the epoxy, the pieces of wood your using are level so the epoxy doesnt run to one side. bc it will get thick on the low side and the thicker the epoxy the more it will yellow.,
Hey great job on your lovely countertops. All great advice for DIY/s. I'd add to always stagger lines and putty and double up on the cabinet crossbars for reinforcement. Also, we Redguard the underneath of the mdf waterproofing and sealing the piece. Great video, Vaghn.
I built an MDF counter top in our office and used iron on edge banding for a smooth finished edge. Do you think it would work for the edge when using MDF for epoxy countertops?
As long as the edge banding is super secure. BUT, it’s difficult to keep enough epoxy on a corner for it to be long lasting. That’s why most tutorials recommend you round over your edges. You could just give the top and bottom corner of the edge banding a good sanding so it’ll be beveled. That would be better than totally square.
How did you match the viens of the countertop with the backsplash?... I'm doing a similar project to yours. Any tips to keep the flow of the marbling for backsplash to countertop?... for my kitchen..I will have to do the backsplash first and then the countertop
In my own kitchen I did not match any veins from backsplash to countertop, because I poured the backsplash flat then glued it to the walls. However in other kitchens where the backsplash was attached, I did run it down the walls to the countertop because it’s unavoidable.
I currently have laminate counter tops and back splash and I am wanting to do both the marble look. Is it possible to do my back splash which goes all the way up to underneath my cabinets?
yes, it's possible but the design on the backsplash will be droopy. so you need to let the epoxy set up for a while before you add the design/veins so the color/design/veins don't just run and end up on the counter top. does that make any sense. I have a video where I did a small backsplash...check it out. th-cam.com/video/J7QHWsc25AI/w-d-xo.html
I don't. The only thing that has stained my counters is tumeric powder and a plastic grocery bag that had writing on it. Both things came out with a couple applications of windex.
Well, i guess i should make a 4 year video. It's held up fine. It has yellowed a bit more and there's scratches, but really not that much different from my 3 year video.
yes, but if it's been more than 12 hours you have to sand the first coat. Your epoxy brand should say on the bottle what the time frame is for recoating. Total Boat epoxy says if you recoat between 4 and 6 hours no sanding necessary but if you wait more than 6 hours you have to sand for the best adhesion of the second coat.
Great job! I have a question. What do you mean by adding Trim molding to the edge? I have been considering the same but can’t seem to find it to purchase.
Hi there. We just had someone epoxy our countertops and I am not happy with them at all. Can I have them remove the epoxy to get my previous countertops back without damage to the previous countertops?
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for your feedback. Yes it’s the design and color. I wanted a white marble look and they gave me a gray marble which doesn’t go well with my kitchen cabinets. They also didn’t do a good job on the edges… it’s not flowing correctly.
I applied epoxy to my bar, still have countertops to do. I love the look BUT ended up with some bubbly bumps! How can I avoid this when doing my countertops?
did you use a heat gun or torch? That usually does it. But the bubbles are from air coming up through the bottom of your piece so if your substrate is porous then it needs to be sealed prior to your first coat of epoxy. If that's not possible then you need to sand the bubbles out of the first coat before applying the second coat. They ususally sand out pretty easily.
Omg... iiiiii had IKEA Buther block and redid with Epoxy...white marble..And I DID USE double thick mdf! : ) I used bondo on the front edge and routed top & bottom with 1/8 round over bit and it's so smooth. I am trying to fix my backsplashes with my second coat because I did the marble effect on them darker & a little different than the counter and I was tired and did all lines front to back also annd all the same angle like zebra stripes.. I was hoping to find someone that added a second tinted coat and what you end up seeing through it if anything. So ALWAYS GO LOOK real good at your prior pieces so you make others consistant. I used a piece of trim with markings forcreference to know where to continue lines from counter.. I just did them to dark and continous but yeah, Great tips! Oh, and I did my island black and am going to hone like soapstone! (After the gloss gets some wear & tear... it will be a nice new fresh look after about a year. Again all great tips! And buy lots of brushes so you dont do larger rushed batches just because you dont have enough brushes! (If u use brushes to chop your epoxy.)
WoW!!!! great minds think alike! That's a great idea to keep the black soapstone shiny until it starts to wear out then sand it after that! I think I'll do the same when I finally get around to it. Yes to buying plenty of brushes! I did the same thing...by the time I got to the end of the job my brushes were hardened up and made the chopping/blending process almost impossible. Thanks for the comment! I'd love to see your counters...DM me on IG or something.
I would love to be able to pick your brain I have several projects that I'm attempting 1 is redoing all of my kitchen countertops over the 45 year old formica and the other is a total bathroom remodel from a tub and tiled walls (very dated) to a walk in shower. I have gutted the bathroom except for removal of the tub (I need the tool to seperate the original drain from the plumbing to come in) I like the way your grain patterns look more like real stone feature and I'm trying to find out whether the MDF should be screwed directly to the wall studs or glued with something like liquid nails on top of sheetrock. I know that the MDF has to be waterproofed by coating it with Redgaurd which is what Gil & Camille @ Stonecoat Countertops have told me, I'm just waiting for them to get back with me on the color formulas needed to match the marble countertops in the vanity area as close as possible before I proceed any further. But I'm glad I came across your videos showing how you've created your marbling. I was just curious why you didn't fill the seams between the MDF to hide them. I also hear them and others say that you can use a torch, heat gun or even a blow dryer. Having to work vertically in the shower area I'm trying to get answers from people who have used these products to get the best results but unfortunately I don't have Instagram or any like that other than email to contact with or through video comments. So I've subscribed to your channel to watch your videos to try and learn as much as possible. If you were or are in the DFW area I would love to sit in on any classes you offer if you do any of those.
Hi Teddy, I'm in Tampa so I can't help you in person, but you can email me if you want. mimzy@mimzyandcompany.com. I'll tell you anything you want to know about my epoxy experience. I'll start by saying I used wood filler at the joints of my MDF and Bondo would have been better. I also should have supported the underside of the joints better with a piece of lumber because even though is used pocket hole joinery it's not completely flat and as a result the epoxy is thicker on one side of the joint, which caused the epoxy to yellow a bit on the thick side. Also, I have done epoxy on a laminate counter and small backsplash and the vertical surfaces are very difficult because no matter what, the epoxy runs down and therefore your marbling design sags too. The only thing you can do to help the design to not sag is wait until the epoxy is set up to add your design. Or do like I did, and do your vertical surfaces flat and install after. Which means you'd have to use glue to fasten to the wall. anyhow....I'm about to do two more epoxy projects, a small kitchen with formica counters and a tulip table top so stay tuned. Also email me a list of questions and I'll respond.
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for your quick response and I will be sending out an email within the next few days to "pick your brain". I'm not affraid to try anything once and have been told by many that I'm too much of a perfectionist but I believe in doing it correctly the first time. My grandfather was a tradesman who made some beautiful hand crafted furniture and actually built his first house a 3 bedroom 2 bath home entirely on his own over a period of time after WW2 raising a family where they lived in the garage that he built first actually digging the basement with nothing more than a shovel and a pick axe. He was taught a lot of his trade from the Pennsylvania Dutch Amish People. He instilled the importance and values into my head that "Time is the most important thing that we have, and if you can't find the time to do it correctly the first time when can you ever find the time to go back and redo it correctly the second time." Unfortunately I'm now disabled because of the misdoings of someone else and have nothing but time on my hands and those words have stuck with me throughout my life and various careers. I'm looking forward to attempting to beautify my home and want to see that reaction where people say WOW you did this yourself! I have already started ordering fixtures and the finishing detail touches but we both know the final outcome is all in the preparation. I've watched so many instructional videos and read so much information that I'm confident that yes I can do the countertops with that WOW factor. It's the bathroom remodel though that is giving me nightmares mainly because of the tight spaces and limited access in and out of it. So I'll get my email together and get it off to you ASAP. Thanks again for your response.
I had a "epoxy company" do mine... They stain with the simplest thing.. kool-aid if you don't wipe it immediately... Tbey talked up the high heat capabilities... several burns one from my crockpot... is this normal or did they skip a step?
Huh. They do have to cure completely before using normally. That’s a full 30 days. After that they should be completely heat resistant. I set hot pans on my counter after I’ve dumped boiling water into the sink and they’re fine. As far as staining…mine do stain a bit, like turmeric powder, but it comes out after a couple applications of Windex.
None. I just mixed the two parts, resin and cure. I didn't add any pigment to my epoxy until I added the spray paint once I poured it on my counters. I painted my counters the color I wanted prior to pouring the epoxy. I did that because I wanted my counters to be the exact same color as my walls and didn't want any glitter.
My granite is outdated. I want to do a similar look as you did but there is no way my 6 inch backsplash can come off. Would I use a thickener for my backsplash?
No thickener, just do the backsplash last when the epoxy is a little more set-up. I'd pour your counters and spread the epoxy on the counters first, then with a brush or roller, take some epoxy from the counters and brush or roll the backsplash. Then do your design/veining on the counters and last do the backsplash. By the time you get to the backsplash it'll be semi set up so the design/veining wont just run down onto the countertop.
Hello, quick question.... How has it held up? I remodeled my kitchen and had black quartz put in but I absolutely hate it. I debated on just ripping it out and using it elsewhere and going with white but someone mentioned I should just do this. Curious as to how it holds up though.
it's held up really well. I'd say it wears similar to formica, in that it does get some fine scratches that you can see if the light shines on it just right, but only if you're looking for it...but that's also because it's soooooo shiny. I'm about to do my island countertop to look like soapstone. I'm going to sand it down so it's matte.
Good question. Unfortunately I can’t answer that for certain. The only appliance I have is my coffeemaker. It does have a tank that heats the water and the counter is fine under it. But I imagine a oven would be hotter. I do know you have to wait until it’s completely cured for 30 days before putting anything hot on it. But after that it “should” be fine. I’d probably test it by making sample board and use your oven on top of that first.
not really. I've had stains...mustard, plastic grocery bag writing, but it all comes out with windex. the grocery bag took a couple days. I don't have any permanent stains. I did sit a hot cup of Coffe on my island before it was completely cured and it left a raised ring from the heat. You have to let it cure for a FULL 30 days before setting anything hot on your epoxy. But now I even set hot pans sometimes and it doesn't do anything.
@@MimzyandCompany I have epoxy, and after 3 weeks, a hot coffee cup left raised bubble, after being on counter for about 15 seconds. It also stains super easily, you must basically have a towel in your hand at all times, to clean. It cannot set on countertop for even a few seconds before it stains.
@@laineyspangler4246 huh.... I haven't had the same experience. I set my hot coffee cups down all the time and even sometimes set hot pans down next to my sink after draining pasta etc. .. As for stains, my husband sometimes spills turmeric powder on my counter and it will leave a very yellow stain but it comes out in a couple wipes.
Hey there! I’ve been researching epoxy and other options to cover over my ugly pinkish-black granite tile counters. I love your video and kitchen! You did a great job! I’ve been wanting a tall marble backsplash just like you did! Do you think this method will work on granite tile? Would I need to bondo the grout lines before painting so it looks like a smooth surface? Also, I don’t think the 6” granite backsplash will come off without damaging the drywall. Could I add mdf to the top of the backsplash, then bondo that seam and epoxy it so it looks like one big slab of marble? I hope that makes sense. Thanks for your great video and tips!
that makes complete sense. Yes, you'd have to bondo the seams of tile to make it all as smooth as possible before paint, then epoxy. And yes, If you can get MDF the same thickness as your 6" backsplash to continue it up the wall, I think that's a great idea! Same thing, just bondo the seam. The only thing is if you epoxy directly onto the backsplash which is attached to the wall your veins/design part will be a little droopy. Know what I mean? because the epoxy will inevitably run down the wall. So you could do like i did and attach thin plywood over the top of the 6" backsplash/Mdf after you epoxy it horizontally. Only problem is that it'll end up pretty thick and how do you address the thick top edge. ?
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for the quick reply! How do you have all the time! I wish I could hire you to come help me! Want to come to Durango, CO for a ski weekend and help me? Haha. Jk. I have three little kids and I’m nervous to take this on, but my counters are so ugly! The backsplash is about 1/4” thick. Do you think I should try to remove it and just do the MDF backsplash horizontally and hope it’ll just cover the holes if I make any in the removal of old backsplash? Also, how tall did you go with your backsplash? I’m also planning to do floating shelves above my backsplash. We removed our uppers before we moved in, so I know I don’t need them!
@@MimzyandCompany that is too funny! Darn! I wish I had found your TH-cam sooner! I really appreciate your informative videos. One more question…I am also going to paint my cabinets. Everything in my kitchen is from 1992. My appliances are mismatched and I was wanting to paint them the same color as my cabinets. I saw in one of your videos you mentioned you painted your fridge the same color. Do you have a video tutorial of that? Can you color match appliance paint? There are so many projects I want to do to update my kitchen on a dime.
@@chrissieochocki1922 I did paint my fridge. I used Shellac based primer first. Then you can use any kind of paint over that. I have a link to the shellac based primer in my "how to paint laminate furniture video". th-cam.com/video/qC3a1HDztJw/w-d-xo.html
I have epoxy clear over painted calcatta. It stains immediately. I have tried Windex, acetone, etc. etc. nothing works unless it scruff off the surface. What is the best way to clean a stain. No one tells you how easily it stains, and scratches. I was surprised. Any help.
I'm really not sure. I don't have a problem with staining. What kind of things are staining your counters? And I don't have any big scratches...I have noticed some very fine scratches if the sunlight shines on it just right. The only thing I can think is that maybe the ratio of resin/cure was off. OR maybe the epoxy temperature or ambient temp of the room was too cold or too hot when you poured it and that's why it didn't cure properly. That really stinks you're having trouble.
I will say that I had some Tumeric stains recently and they took a couple days to fade with Windex use. But I really don't clean vigorously, just the usual couple times a day or so. So you shouldn't have such a hard time with stains.
@@MimzyandCompany Berries, hot jello, have stained the top...god forbid turmeric! I just made Indian Butter Chicken yesterday, and was super careful not to spill any spices. If I catch the stain right away, it can come up. But, if I find it a day later, it's not coming up, not with windex. The scratches are fine, as you mentioned..if you see in the sunlight (I used a green scrubbie, and it scuffed the counter--so you can see it in the right light--mineral oil helps eliminate this, but, only for a day--then, I guess it evaporates. I tried nail polish (acetone) to take up stains, but, it actually scratched the top, and the stain did not come out.? So, yesterday, I took a cotton ball, and used the tiniest bit of comet & water, and rubbed on a berry stain, and it came up, with no scratches...just what everyone said NOT to do! ?? I believe I mixed the ingredients properly, and it's Arizona, and the temp in the house was perfect. So, it's not that. It has not been a month, 3 weeks...but, it does want to stain immediately... The hot coffee cup was on the top for 15 seconds.. you cannot tell it affected the top, until you get eye level with it, and have the lighting just right, but, it is a bit warped where the cup was... again, only 2 weeks cured at that point. I actually used East Coast Resin. I don't know if it is an inferior brand? I am really hoping that in the next couple of weeks, it will be totally cured, and I will not have these problems...but, somehow, I think the stains will continue to happen, and I have to stay on top of it. Thank you for your quick responses!
@@laineyspangler4246 dang...that's such a bummer. But I do think it will fully cure in another week or so and you shouldn't have a problem with heat and hopefully the staining will be less. If it doesn't improve with a full cure then maybe you could put another layer of a different brand of epoxy over this one. Major hassle but might help. Anyway keep me posted on how it turns out for you.
@@MimzyandCompany Thank you for your help! I thought about another layer, but, not for awhile. Wait until it's really trashed, then, try a different brand! Thx!
How did you do your wall or back splash? Do you have to do separate then add it to your wall or do you just go straight off wall to counters? Also do you do your caulking then epoxy over or do caulking after? Thx so much your counters are beautiful.. oh did you add your gray paint veins into your pour or did you paint them and let your base coat dry all the way before epoxy?
I poured the backsplash separate, on 1/4" thick plywood flooring underlayment, and then glued the epoxied plywood to the wall after I epoxied the counters. after that I caulked between the backsplash and counters with silicone caulk. I did the veins with spray paint after I poured the clear epoxy on the white counters. I another video with the epoxy pour.
no. I intended to do a second coat but never did. But still had excellent results. I just finished my island epoxy yesterday and I did do a second coat and it does make a difference. I would recommend it, but if you can get the first coat looking the way you want without any voids then you can totally use only one coat.
This is great. It looks fantastic. Great tips here. I’ve been looking at some of the Stonecoat videos also. What product line did you use?I’ve enjoyed watching some of your videos.
Thank you...I just used total Boat brand countertop epoxy last week and I really like it. so far so good. For all my other epoxy I've used a local epoxy company .
I absolutely love the counters and backsplash! I've been thinking of doing that to my counters for a while now. How is the mdf doing in the sink area? Is the epoxy keeping it from getting wet and damaged? Since you have an undermount sink I would imagine the mdf would be exposed.
Good question!!! My MDF is great around the sink. I was concerned about it too because of the undermount sink. But I was very careful and thorough when I caulked around my sink after the epoxy was set. I used a very good silicone caulk.
@@kiashaw when you use epoxy please do it outdoors and with proper safety gear. Respirator, goggles, gloves and clothes that wont touch your skin if epoxy gets on it. Epoxy is very toxic. Most DIYers dont know about the safety gear. You can develop lung diseases from epoxy if you dont use the right safety gear.
This is beautiful work. I haven't done my kitchen counter yet; but I did make my shower walls. To make them waterproof, I first applied a netting and then Bondo with is something plumbers use. If you check the video for making showers by Stone Coat Countertops, you'll understand what to do for the countertop/sink area.
super easy to clean. I have had two things that stain ...one is yellow mustard, the other is the writing on plastic grocery bags sometimes transfers if it gets wet. BUT, everything comes off really easily with windex. I use a washcloth with soap and water to clean my counters and then I windex them so they are streak free. Every stain I ever got comes out right away with windex...it's the only chemical I've used.
Thank you! I haven't had any chipping or cracking at all and we are not careful. I have three teenagers that are not at all careful. I'd say they hold up very similar to formica in that they do get fine fine scratches that you can see only when the sun shines at just the right angle. Still I'm very very pleased.
Omg I’m super nervous but I did order my epoxy. I’m doing my laminate counter top. How much epoxy did you end up using??? I’m hoping I didn’t order to much
@@successfulMillennial you mean about how much epoxy did I use??? I used 4- 1 gallon kits for my counters and my backsplash.that's for two coats on the counters and one coat on the backsplash.
mimzy & company I am getting ready to have a go at my first epoxy desktop. I want to try the matte finish topcoat by Stonecoat. I think I’ve already made a couple of mistakes though. 1) I used plywood and it’s not as flat as I thought it was and 2) I routed a fancy ogee edge before I learned that I should’ve just done a round over router bit. I’ve sanded the sharp edges but am still concerned that the epoxy won’t flow over the edges properly.
mimzy & company I tried the topcoat from Stonecoat. Admittedly, I did not follow the directions exactly and tried to do the whole desktop at once rather than small sections. Used the wet roller/dry roller technique but still could see roller edge marks. Didn’t love the look of it either. However, it’s a desk, not a countertop and I think the matte finish will prove to be the right choice.
@@bengdesigns9213 huh...I guess the topcoat is not too forgiving. good to know. I'm about to do my kitchen island and I want a matte finish because I want it to look like soapstone. So I think rather than using the matte topcoat I'll just sand it with 600 grit to make it matte.
Hi I rly love these :) I want to do the same thing with epoxy countertop and backsplash, so just to clarify, did you do two coats of epoxy and you’re wishing that you had waited to do the second when the backsplash was installed to cover the seams? Also, did you sand the epoxy after wards? I’ve seen some videos where they sand it and give it more of a matte finish and I’m not sure if that’s what I should do or not yet, just at the soaking up knowledge stage Rn aha
I didn't do two coats on my countertops because I only had enough for one coat. I would def recommend two coats because it makes your finish much smoother. Also it would have been nice to apply the second coat after the backsplash was installed because it would have filled in any gaps between the counter and the backsplash. I did not sand mine yet. I'm thinking of sanding to give it a matte finish because that's my preference, but I decided to wait until the uber shiny finish gets worn out. you have to sand between coats if you wait more than 12 hours to apply your second coat. Good luck...you're gonna love your new counters!
@@MimzyandCompany check out stonecoat on seeking mdf for counters. As a contractor we use bisquits and epoxy with a thickener added. Makes unbelievably strong joints.
Loved this video. Does the epoxy stain, wine, spaghetti sauce...? Also, does the surface show scratches? I want to do my countertops with Stone Coat same as what you have done, but I am so scared.
Go for it! You will NOT be disappointed. The only thing that has stained my epoxy is the print from a plastic grocery bag that got wet and sat on my counter for a while. But it came out with windex. It does get really fine scratches that can be seen in just the right light. I'd say it performs like laminate. It's not granite, but it's really really good.
No, not really cost, it's the smoothness of the MDF. With the super high shine of epoxy you'd see any imperfections in the wood underneath. So I guess if you used some cabinet grade plywood that would be nice and smooth, but expensive. I was concerned that the MDF would be subject to water absorption and end up with swollen spots, particularly above my dishwasher and around my sink. But so far it's perfect. Even around my undermount sink and faucet. I check under my sink once in a while to see if the MDF is swelling and it's not. But if your concerned about water you could RED-guard the bottom of the MDF. I considered it, but it is really expensive. Thank you for the comment and compliment.
This is the most beautiful epoxy I have seen as it appears real. So many I see look like art projects.
OMG Hope! you should definitely do epoxy! It's not hard and it's super light. How nice that you're close to the beach! I'm jealous. I just finished another epoxy project in my kitchen yesterday and the video is going live today. When you start feel free to ask me questions...I'm happy to help. I LOVE home projects.
I agree, it is beautiful!
I think it turned out gorgeous. And the fact you did it yourself, wow!! Great job!
Thank you so much!
I purchased 1-inch MDF from a specialty store near me. It cost me around $96 for a 4x10 sheet. I also put a 1/2 lip edge on the bottom side in front of the drawers. Your counters looks amazing!!!
Thank you! ooh, i'd love to see your finished project! DM me some pics on IG. @mimzyandco
@@MimzyandCompany Ok Sending some your way now!
Love your videos on countertops. So informative. Beautiful look on a budget. Great job!
Thank you very much. Very good for tight budgets.
Recommend plywood over mdf
I would love to also epoxy the backsplash. Any tips?
I think i have a whole video on the backsplash. my biggest tip is to make sure where ever you pour the epoxy, the pieces of wood your using are level so the epoxy doesnt run to one side. bc it will get thick on the low side and the thicker the epoxy the more it will yellow.,
Thanks for the tips. I really like the colors and the design but you did. Simple yet elegant.
Thank you Wayne.
Hey great job on your lovely countertops. All great advice for DIY/s. I'd add to always stagger lines and putty and double up on the cabinet crossbars for reinforcement. Also, we Redguard the underneath of the mdf waterproofing and sealing the piece. Great video, Vaghn.
Thank you Vaghn! Very good suggestions ! Particularly redguard above the dishwasher.
I built an MDF counter top in our office and used iron on edge banding for a smooth finished edge. Do you think it would work for the edge when using MDF for epoxy countertops?
As long as the edge banding is super secure. BUT, it’s difficult to keep enough epoxy on a corner for it to be long lasting. That’s why most tutorials recommend you round over your edges. You could just give the top and bottom corner of the edge banding a good sanding so it’ll be beveled. That would be better than totally square.
How did you match the viens of the countertop with the backsplash?... I'm doing a similar project to yours. Any tips to keep the flow of the marbling for backsplash to countertop?... for my kitchen..I will have to do the backsplash first and then the countertop
In my own kitchen I did not match any veins from backsplash to countertop, because I poured the backsplash flat then glued it to the walls. However in other kitchens where the backsplash was attached, I did run it down the walls to the countertop because it’s unavoidable.
@mimzy & company well it looks like it matches! So natural. How did you pour epoxy on a blackspash that is connected?
Which video do you show how you affix the backsplash to the wall? I'm curious to see your approach on that. Thanks. Looks great!
Raul...I cant remember which video. I'll have to get back to you. I guess I should put chapters on my videos so it'll be easy to find.
I currently have laminate counter tops and back splash and I am wanting to do both the marble look. Is it possible to do my back splash which goes all the way up to underneath my cabinets?
yes, it's possible but the design on the backsplash will be droopy. so you need to let the epoxy set up for a while before you add the design/veins so the color/design/veins don't just run and end up on the counter top. does that make any sense. I have a video where I did a small backsplash...check it out. th-cam.com/video/J7QHWsc25AI/w-d-xo.html
Do you have problems with staining and if so what do you use to get stains out?
I don't. The only thing that has stained my counters is tumeric powder and a plastic grocery bag that had writing on it. Both things came out with a couple applications of windex.
It's been 4 years how did your epoxy counter top hold up? Thinking about trying this myself
Well, i guess i should make a 4 year video. It's held up fine. It has yellowed a bit more and there's scratches, but really not that much different from my 3 year video.
Can you put another coat of epoxy over the dried epoxy? Countertop was evidently not level and I missed a section about 10" x12" section.
yes, but if it's been more than 12 hours you have to sand the first coat. Your epoxy brand should say on the bottle what the time frame is for recoating. Total Boat epoxy says if you recoat between 4 and 6 hours no sanding necessary but if you wait more than 6 hours you have to sand for the best adhesion of the second coat.
Great job! I have a question. What do you mean by adding Trim molding to the edge? I have been considering the same but can’t seem to find it to purchase.
The edge of the countertop...I'd use lattice moulding or possibly large quarter round. Both are in the moulding aisle at Home Depot.
Hi there. We just had someone epoxy our countertops and I am not happy with them at all. Can I have them remove the epoxy to get my previous countertops back without damage to the previous countertops?
no , not as far as i know. But you can put a new layer over the top to cover what they did. Is it the design and colors you dont like?
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for your feedback. Yes it’s the design and color. I wanted a white marble look and they gave me a gray marble which doesn’t go well with my kitchen cabinets. They also didn’t do a good job on the edges… it’s not flowing correctly.
@@ShawnS23 well that’s a bummer. They should’ve made you a sample. It can be sanded and recoated though.
@@MimzyandCompany I’ll look into some options. Thank you
I applied epoxy to my bar, still have countertops to do. I love the look BUT ended up with some bubbly bumps! How can I avoid this when doing my countertops?
did you use a heat gun or torch? That usually does it. But the bubbles are from air coming up through the bottom of your piece so if your substrate is porous then it needs to be sealed prior to your first coat of epoxy. If that's not possible then you need to sand the bubbles out of the first coat before applying the second coat. They ususally sand out pretty easily.
The joint lines on your MDF could you not have used Bondo or something similar to it to cover those joints so there not visible?
100% bondo is the best choice
They look great
Thanks JC
Omg... iiiiii had IKEA Buther block and redid with Epoxy...white marble..And I DID USE double thick mdf! : ) I used bondo on the front edge and routed top & bottom with 1/8 round over bit and it's so smooth. I am trying to fix my backsplashes with my second coat because I did the marble effect on them darker & a little different than the counter and I was tired and did all lines front to back also annd all the same angle like zebra stripes.. I was hoping to find someone that added a second tinted coat and what you end up seeing through it if anything. So ALWAYS GO LOOK real good at your prior pieces so you make others consistant. I used a piece of trim with markings forcreference to know where to continue lines from counter.. I just did them to dark and continous but yeah, Great tips! Oh, and I did my island black and am going to hone like soapstone! (After the gloss gets some wear & tear... it will be a nice new fresh look after about a year. Again all great tips! And buy lots of brushes so you dont do larger rushed batches just because you dont have enough brushes! (If u use brushes to chop your epoxy.)
WoW!!!! great minds think alike! That's a great idea to keep the black soapstone shiny until it starts to wear out then sand it after that! I think I'll do the same when I finally get around to it. Yes to buying plenty of brushes! I did the same thing...by the time I got to the end of the job my brushes were hardened up and made the chopping/blending process almost impossible. Thanks for the comment! I'd love to see your counters...DM me on IG or something.
I would love to be able to pick your brain I have several projects that I'm attempting 1 is redoing all of my kitchen countertops over the 45 year old formica and the other is a total bathroom remodel from a tub and tiled walls (very dated) to a walk in shower. I have gutted the bathroom except for removal of the tub (I need the tool to seperate the original drain from the plumbing to come in) I like the way your grain patterns look more like real stone feature and I'm trying to find out whether the MDF should be screwed directly to the wall studs or glued with something like liquid nails on top of sheetrock. I know that the MDF has to be waterproofed by coating it with Redgaurd which is what Gil & Camille @ Stonecoat Countertops have told me, I'm just waiting for them to get back with me on the color formulas needed to match the marble countertops in the vanity area as close as possible before I proceed any further. But I'm glad I came across your videos showing how you've created your marbling. I was just curious why you didn't fill the seams between the MDF to hide them. I also hear them and others say that you can use a torch, heat gun or even a blow dryer. Having to work vertically in the shower area I'm trying to get answers from people who have used these products to get the best results but unfortunately I don't have Instagram or any like that other than email to contact with or through video comments. So I've subscribed to your channel to watch your videos to try and learn as much as possible. If you were or are in the DFW area I would love to sit in on any classes you offer if you do any of those.
Hi Teddy, I'm in Tampa so I can't help you in person, but you can email me if you want. mimzy@mimzyandcompany.com. I'll tell you anything you want to know about my epoxy experience.
I'll start by saying I used wood filler at the joints of my MDF and Bondo would have been better. I also should have supported the underside of the joints better with a piece of lumber because even though is used pocket hole joinery it's not completely flat and as a result the epoxy is thicker on one side of the joint, which caused the epoxy to yellow a bit on the thick side.
Also, I have done epoxy on a laminate counter and small backsplash and the vertical surfaces are very difficult because no matter what, the epoxy runs down and therefore your marbling design sags too. The only thing you can do to help the design to not sag is wait until the epoxy is set up to add your design. Or do like I did, and do your vertical surfaces flat and install after. Which means you'd have to use glue to fasten to the wall.
anyhow....I'm about to do two more epoxy projects, a small kitchen with formica counters and a tulip table top so stay tuned. Also email me a list of questions and I'll respond.
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for your quick response and I will be sending out an email within the next few days to "pick your brain". I'm not affraid to try anything once and have been told by many that I'm too much of a perfectionist but I believe in doing it correctly the first time. My grandfather was a tradesman who made some beautiful hand crafted furniture and actually built his first house a 3 bedroom 2 bath home entirely on his own over a period of time after WW2 raising a family where they lived in the garage that he built first actually digging the basement with nothing more than a shovel and a pick axe. He was taught a lot of his trade from the Pennsylvania Dutch Amish People. He instilled the importance and values into my head that "Time is the most important thing that we have, and if you can't find the time to do it correctly the first time when can you ever find the time to go back and redo it correctly the second time." Unfortunately I'm now disabled because of the misdoings of someone else and have nothing but time on my hands and those words have stuck with me throughout my life and various careers. I'm looking forward to attempting to beautify my home and want to see that reaction where people say WOW you did this yourself! I have already started ordering fixtures and the finishing detail touches but we both know the final outcome is all in the preparation. I've watched so many instructional videos and read so much information that I'm confident that yes I can do the countertops with that WOW factor. It's the bathroom remodel though that is giving me nightmares mainly because of the tight spaces and limited access in and out of it. So I'll get my email together and get it off to you ASAP.
Thanks again for your response.
Great info,I have my epoxy,will be doing mine soon
Good luck!
I had a "epoxy company" do mine... They stain with the simplest thing.. kool-aid if you don't wipe it immediately... Tbey talked up the high heat capabilities... several burns one from my crockpot... is this normal or did they skip a step?
Huh. They do have to cure completely before using normally. That’s a full 30 days. After that they should be completely heat resistant. I set hot pans on my counter after I’ve dumped boiling water into the sink and they’re fine. As far as staining…mine do stain a bit, like turmeric powder, but it comes out after a couple applications of Windex.
What recipe did you use in your epoxy? The white pigment, the gray tones, etc. thanks
None. I just mixed the two parts, resin and cure. I didn't add any pigment to my epoxy until I added the spray paint once I poured it on my counters. I painted my counters the color I wanted prior to pouring the epoxy. I did that because I wanted my counters to be the exact same color as my walls and didn't want any glitter.
My granite is outdated. I want to do a similar look as you did but there is no way my 6 inch backsplash can come off. Would I use a thickener for my backsplash?
No thickener, just do the backsplash last when the epoxy is a little more set-up. I'd pour your counters and spread the epoxy on the counters first, then with a brush or roller, take some epoxy from the counters and brush or roll the backsplash. Then do your design/veining on the counters and last do the backsplash. By the time you get to the backsplash it'll be semi set up so the design/veining wont just run down onto the countertop.
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for the wonderful advice
Hello, quick question.... How has it held up? I remodeled my kitchen and had black quartz put in but I absolutely hate it. I debated on just ripping it out and using it elsewhere and going with white but someone mentioned I should just do this. Curious as to how it holds up though.
it's held up really well. I'd say it wears similar to formica, in that it does get some fine scratches that you can see if the light shines on it just right, but only if you're looking for it...but that's also because it's soooooo shiny. I'm about to do my island countertop to look like soapstone. I'm going to sand it down so it's matte.
What color paint are those dark gray cabinets? Thanks for your videos!
it's called Graphic Charcoal by Behr from Home Depot.
Are you able to use a Nesco roaster or pizza oven on the countertops with out damage?
Good question. Unfortunately I can’t answer that for certain. The only appliance I have is my coffeemaker. It does have a tank that heats the water and the counter is fine under it. But I imagine a oven would be hotter. I do know you have to wait until it’s completely cured for 30 days before putting anything hot on it. But after that it “should” be fine. I’d probably test it by making sample board and use your oven on top of that first.
@@MimzyandCompany Thank you for replying.
Thanks for this video!! Do you have any issues with stains from coffee cups or any other stuff?
not really. I've had stains...mustard, plastic grocery bag writing, but it all comes out with windex. the grocery bag took a couple days. I don't have any permanent stains. I did sit a hot cup of Coffe on my island before it was completely cured and it left a raised ring from the heat. You have to let it cure for a FULL 30 days before setting anything hot on your epoxy. But now I even set hot pans sometimes and it doesn't do anything.
@@MimzyandCompany I have epoxy, and after 3 weeks, a hot coffee cup left raised bubble, after being on counter for about 15 seconds. It also stains super easily, you must basically have a towel in your hand at all times, to clean. It cannot set on countertop for even a few seconds before it stains.
@@laineyspangler4246 huh.... I haven't had the same experience. I set my hot coffee cups down all the time and even sometimes set hot pans down next to my sink after draining pasta etc. .. As for stains, my husband sometimes spills turmeric powder on my counter and it will leave a very yellow stain but it comes out in a couple wipes.
Hey there! I’ve been researching epoxy and other options to cover over my ugly pinkish-black granite tile counters. I love your video and kitchen! You did a great job! I’ve been wanting a tall marble backsplash just like you did! Do you think this method will work on granite tile? Would I need to bondo the grout lines before painting so it looks like a smooth surface? Also, I don’t think the 6” granite backsplash will come off without damaging the drywall. Could I add mdf to the top of the backsplash, then bondo that seam and epoxy it so it looks like one big slab of marble? I hope that makes sense. Thanks for your great video and tips!
that makes complete sense. Yes, you'd have to bondo the seams of tile to make it all as smooth as possible before paint, then epoxy. And yes, If you can get MDF the same thickness as your 6" backsplash to continue it up the wall, I think that's a great idea! Same thing, just bondo the seam. The only thing is if you epoxy directly onto the backsplash which is attached to the wall your veins/design part will be a little droopy. Know what I mean? because the epoxy will inevitably run down the wall. So you could do like i did and attach thin plywood over the top of the 6" backsplash/Mdf after you epoxy it horizontally. Only problem is that it'll end up pretty thick and how do you address the thick top edge. ?
@@MimzyandCompany thank you for the quick reply! How do you have all the time! I wish I could hire you to come help me! Want to come to Durango, CO for a ski weekend and help me? Haha. Jk. I have three little kids and I’m nervous to take this on, but my counters are so ugly! The backsplash is about 1/4” thick. Do you think I should try to remove it and just do the MDF backsplash horizontally and hope it’ll just cover the holes if I make any in the removal of old backsplash?
Also, how tall did you go with your backsplash? I’m also planning to do floating shelves above my backsplash. We removed our uppers before we moved in, so I know I don’t need them!
@@chrissieochocki1922 I just came back from Denver yesterday! Funny! I'm swamped all. the. time. But I love what I do. You can do it!
@@MimzyandCompany that is too funny! Darn! I wish I had found your TH-cam sooner! I really appreciate your informative videos. One more question…I am also going to paint my cabinets. Everything in my kitchen is from 1992. My appliances are mismatched and I was wanting to paint them the same color as my cabinets. I saw in one of your videos you mentioned you painted your fridge the same color. Do you have a video tutorial of that? Can you color match appliance paint? There are so many projects I want to do to update my kitchen on a dime.
@@chrissieochocki1922 I did paint my fridge. I used Shellac based primer first. Then you can use any kind of paint over that. I have a link to the shellac based primer in my "how to paint laminate furniture video". th-cam.com/video/qC3a1HDztJw/w-d-xo.html
I have epoxy clear over painted calcatta. It stains immediately. I have tried Windex, acetone, etc. etc. nothing works unless it scruff off the surface. What is the best way to clean a stain. No one tells you how easily it stains, and scratches. I was surprised. Any help.
I'm really not sure. I don't have a problem with staining. What kind of things are staining your counters? And I don't have any big scratches...I have noticed some very fine scratches if the sunlight shines on it just right. The only thing I can think is that maybe the ratio of resin/cure was off. OR maybe the epoxy temperature or ambient temp of the room was too cold or too hot when you poured it and that's why it didn't cure properly. That really stinks you're having trouble.
I will say that I had some Tumeric stains recently and they took a couple days to fade with Windex use. But I really don't clean vigorously, just the usual couple times a day or so. So you shouldn't have such a hard time with stains.
@@MimzyandCompany Berries, hot jello, have stained the top...god forbid turmeric! I just made Indian Butter Chicken yesterday, and was super careful not to spill any spices. If I catch the stain right away, it can come up. But, if I find it a day later, it's not coming up, not with windex. The scratches are fine, as you mentioned..if you see in the sunlight (I used a green scrubbie, and it scuffed the counter--so you can see it in the right light--mineral oil helps eliminate this, but, only for a day--then, I guess it evaporates. I tried nail polish (acetone) to take up stains, but, it actually scratched the top, and the stain did not come out.? So, yesterday, I took a cotton ball, and used the tiniest bit of comet & water, and rubbed on a berry stain, and it came up, with no scratches...just what everyone said NOT to do! ?? I believe I mixed the ingredients properly, and it's Arizona, and the temp in the house was perfect. So, it's not that. It has not been a month, 3 weeks...but, it does want to stain immediately... The hot coffee cup was on the top for 15 seconds.. you cannot tell it affected the top, until you get eye level with it, and have the lighting just right, but, it is a bit warped where the cup was... again, only 2 weeks cured at that point. I actually used East Coast Resin. I don't know if it is an inferior brand? I am really hoping that in the next couple of weeks, it will be totally cured, and I will not have these problems...but, somehow, I think the stains will continue to happen, and I have to stay on top of it. Thank you for your quick responses!
@@laineyspangler4246 dang...that's such a bummer. But I do think it will fully cure in another week or so and you shouldn't have a problem with heat and hopefully the staining will be less. If it doesn't improve with a full cure then maybe you could put another layer of a different brand of epoxy over this one. Major hassle but might help. Anyway keep me posted on how it turns out for you.
@@MimzyandCompany Thank you for your help! I thought about another layer, but, not for awhile. Wait until it's really trashed, then, try a different brand! Thx!
How did you do your wall or back splash? Do you have to do separate then add it to your wall or do you just go straight off wall to counters? Also do you do your caulking then epoxy over or do caulking after? Thx so much your counters are beautiful.. oh did you add your gray paint veins into your pour or did you paint them and let your base coat dry all the way before epoxy?
I poured the backsplash separate, on 1/4" thick plywood flooring underlayment, and then glued the epoxied plywood to the wall after I epoxied the counters. after that I caulked between the backsplash and counters with silicone caulk. I did the veins with spray paint after I poured the clear epoxy on the white counters. I another video with the epoxy pour.
Did you pour clear epoxy for a second coat?
no. I intended to do a second coat but never did. But still had excellent results. I just finished my island epoxy yesterday and I did do a second coat and it does make a difference. I would recommend it, but if you can get the first coat looking the way you want without any voids then you can totally use only one coat.
How did you do your backslash
th-cam.com/video/EN95ueNZDV4/w-d-xo.html
This is great. It looks fantastic. Great tips here. I’ve been looking at some of the Stonecoat videos also. What product line did you use?I’ve enjoyed watching some of your videos.
Thank you...I just used total Boat brand countertop epoxy last week and I really like it. so far so good. For all my other epoxy I've used a local epoxy company .
@@MimzyandCompany Thanks for the tip
I absolutely love the counters and backsplash! I've been thinking of doing that to my counters for a while now. How is the mdf doing in the sink area? Is the epoxy keeping it from getting wet and damaged? Since you have an undermount sink I would imagine the mdf would be exposed.
Good question!!! My MDF is great around the sink. I was concerned about it too because of the undermount sink. But I was very careful and thorough when I caulked around my sink after the epoxy was set. I used a very good silicone caulk.
@@MimzyandCompany that's great. So you did epoxy the exposed part of the
Mdf in the sink?
@@kiashaw when you use epoxy please do it outdoors and with proper safety gear. Respirator, goggles, gloves and clothes that wont touch your skin if epoxy gets on it. Epoxy is very toxic. Most DIYers dont know about the safety gear. You can develop lung diseases from epoxy if you dont use the right safety gear.
This is beautiful work. I haven't done my kitchen counter yet; but I did make my shower walls. To make them waterproof, I first applied a netting and then Bondo with is something plumbers use. If you check the video for making showers by Stone Coat Countertops, you'll understand what to do for the countertop/sink area.
On some epoxy reviews I read that it stains really easily? It was the first time i heard this. Are the counters pretty easy to clean?
super easy to clean. I have had two things that stain ...one is yellow mustard, the other is the writing on plastic grocery bags sometimes transfers if it gets wet. BUT, everything comes off really easily with windex. I use a washcloth with soap and water to clean my counters and then I windex them so they are streak free. Every stain I ever got comes out right away with windex...it's the only chemical I've used.
Those look great! Have you dropped the edge of a can on them? Do they crack or chip?
Thank you! I haven't had any chipping or cracking at all and we are not careful. I have three teenagers that are not at all careful. I'd say they hold up very similar to formica in that they do get fine fine scratches that you can see only when the sun shines at just the right angle. Still I'm very very pleased.
@@MimzyandCompany Thank you for the reply!
Omg I’m super nervous but I did order my epoxy. I’m doing my laminate counter top. How much epoxy did you end up using??? I’m hoping I didn’t order to much
You got this!
@@MimzyandCompany she asked a question.... you didn't answer it
@@successfulMillennial you mean about how much epoxy did I use??? I used 4- 1 gallon kits for my counters and my backsplash.that's for two coats on the counters and one coat on the backsplash.
@@MimzyandCompany thank you
Instead of another layer of epoxy at the end, would a top coat accomplish the goal of sealing the silicone caulk?
yes, it could. The online epoxy compnay's like Stonecoat and others sell a topcoat, and I'm curious to try them...specifically the matte finish.
mimzy & company I am getting ready to have a go at my first epoxy desktop. I want to try the matte finish topcoat by Stonecoat. I think I’ve already made a couple of mistakes though. 1) I used plywood and it’s not as flat as I thought it was and 2) I routed a fancy ogee edge before I learned that I should’ve just done a round over router bit. I’ve sanded the sharp edges but am still concerned that the epoxy won’t flow over the edges properly.
mimzy & company and P.S. LOVED the look of your countertop!
mimzy & company I tried the topcoat from Stonecoat. Admittedly, I did not follow the directions exactly and tried to do the whole desktop at once rather than small sections. Used the wet roller/dry roller technique but still could see roller edge marks. Didn’t love the look of it either. However, it’s a desk, not a countertop and I think the matte finish will prove to be the right choice.
@@bengdesigns9213 huh...I guess the topcoat is not too forgiving. good to know. I'm about to do my kitchen island and I want a matte finish because I want it to look like soapstone. So I think rather than using the matte topcoat I'll just sand it with 600 grit to make it matte.
Hi I rly love these :) I want to do the same thing with epoxy countertop and backsplash, so just to clarify, did you do two coats of epoxy and you’re wishing that you had waited to do the second when the backsplash was installed to cover the seams? Also, did you sand the epoxy after wards? I’ve seen some videos where they sand it and give it more of a matte finish and I’m not sure if that’s what I should do or not yet, just at the soaking up knowledge stage Rn aha
I didn't do two coats on my countertops because I only had enough for one coat. I would def recommend two coats because it makes your finish much smoother. Also it would have been nice to apply the second coat after the backsplash was installed because it would have filled in any gaps between the counter and the backsplash. I did not sand mine yet. I'm thinking of sanding to give it a matte finish because that's my preference, but I decided to wait until the uber shiny finish gets worn out. you have to sand between coats if you wait more than 12 hours to apply your second coat. Good luck...you're gonna love your new counters!
Did you use wood glue on your seams
Nope. Just pocket hole screws and then wood filler in the seam.
@@MimzyandCompany check out stonecoat on seeking mdf for counters. As a contractor we use bisquits and epoxy with a thickener added. Makes unbelievably strong joints.
Loved this video. Does the epoxy stain, wine, spaghetti sauce...? Also, does the surface show scratches? I want to do my countertops with Stone Coat same as what you have done, but I am so scared.
Go for it! You will NOT be disappointed. The only thing that has stained my epoxy is the print from a plastic grocery bag that got wet and sat on my counter for a while. But it came out with windex. It does get really fine scratches that can be seen in just the right light. I'd say it performs like laminate. It's not granite, but it's really really good.
Certain types of caulk repels epoxy, so before doing a second coat of epoxy over caulk, research it well.
Yes, absolutely! Anything with silicone will repel epoxy.
Good video.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for the comment Troy.
Way too hard on yourself girl, it's fab but thank you for coming back to share those tips of what you would have done differently...
That’s true. Thanks Clair.
great job, !
Thanks for the visit
Why not real wood over mdf? Cost?
Also beautiful
No, not really cost, it's the smoothness of the MDF. With the super high shine of epoxy you'd see any imperfections in the wood underneath. So I guess if you used some cabinet grade plywood that would be nice and smooth, but expensive.
I was concerned that the MDF would be subject to water absorption and end up with swollen spots, particularly above my dishwasher and around my sink. But so far it's perfect. Even around my undermount sink and faucet. I check under my sink once in a while to see if the MDF is swelling and it's not. But if your concerned about water you could RED-guard the bottom of the MDF. I considered it, but it is really expensive. Thank you for the comment and compliment.
differently
thank you!