Benchmade Seven Ten (710) New Axis Omega Springs, Over One Million Cycles

Benchmade had their first Axis lock on the 710 and their new leaf springs style Omega spring has been tested over One Million cycles. there wasn't a failure and they were not fatigued. With any new technology they may start on a higher priced knife before it moves to the rest of the line up. This change could be the end of broken springs. S90V blade PVD coated with Aluminum milled scales.
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[@zachstuff]

A solid relaunch!! Thanks for sharing!!

[@BladeBanter]

Thanks Zach put in your video showing the springs. I was going to include the part with Jon but heard some music in the background so decided against it.

[@renechavez870]

For the price I wish they had titanium scales vs aluminum or lower the price for aluminum and offer a higher priced ti scale version. Love the design it’s gorgeous

[@BladeBanter]

I can see that, some of the natural grades for aluminum do very well. I don't believe there would be a lower price variant unless they do a molded handle like the Bugout.

[@DXSharpening]

Great looking knife, thanks for the review

[@BladeBanter]

Thanks for checking it out and the comment.

[@annasoH323]

Interesting stuff David!

[@BladeBanter]

Thanks always looking for new innovations.

[@jtjones717]

I broke my spring in my 940 after 7 days of owning it, so hopefully this will be better

[@BladeBanter]

Hopefully so as that's a lot of cycles for the spring.

[@mikejurnak4253]

ZachsStuff great channel for BenchMade content. Great looking knife thanks for showing it.

[@BladeBanter]

Thanks for checking it out liking the knife so far.

[@Jimmy-xl9ek]

Good

[@BladeBanter]

Thanks

[@heres_the_sauce]

Definitely a better design but my guess there will still be failures due to just less often.

[@BladeBanter]

Yeah it's a mechanical item so it's always possible but a million would be about 27 years at 100 actuations.

[@tgonzalez1983]

The liners should’ve been inset & at least cerakote finish. Idk about benchmade these days.

[@BladeBanter]

Yeah I can see that as an option for the model, the main thing for me is I want a blade that isn't recurved. Granted that is the 710 but there can be a slight modification.

[@CorruptionManX]

Hi, how are you? I watched your videos comparing the different types of oils to use on knives and found them very interesting. Due to the country I live in, I don't have access to specific oils, so I only use mineral oil. One question I have is whether I should apply mineral oil to the blade and internal mechanisms of the knife. I know it protects against rust but at the same time it attracts a lot of dirt, especially from pockets. When I asked Civivi about this, since I have one of their knives, they responded that the knife should always have a thin layer of oil, whereas Kershaw, which I also own a knife from, said it's best not to apply any oil at all because, according to them, it causes more rust than not using oils. So, I've seen that there's no consensus.
The last question I have is if you know if there is any problem with leaving mineral oil in contact with micarta and G10.

[@BladeBanter]

Thank you for watching that video that took a long time and not many took the time to watch it. In general if they are using ceramic bearings and detent balls it is not needed. When you really break it down it depends on your conditions you use your knife in. If the knife is older and is using steel bearings or detent balls I would recommend oil or sometimes grease for detent ball and between washers.
There is normally a break in for knives and the oil could help with the smoothness until that point. Also if there is debris on the path you don't really need to take the knife apart you could just do a drop of oil.
I haven't seen an issue but it is an oil that doesn't dry out like some other oil so it will keep the micarta fabrics oiled.
I personally use a lubricant on my knives and don't take them apart as much as some others.

[@CorruptionManX]

@@BladeBanter Thank you very much for the response, yesterday Benchmade responded to me and it has been 2 weeks since I sent the email to them.
I believe they are trying to convince people to buy their proprietary oil, as I received the most absurd response among all the companies. He told me that mineral oil is known to corrode ferrous materials, I have proof that this was said here. This information is not found anywhere, only they have access to this information.

[@BladeBanter]

​@@CorruptionManXinteresting haven't heard of that i did locate an article that references this but I haven't looked into it very long.
blog.engineeredfluids.com/mineral-oil-corrosive-sulfur-impacts-on-immersed-electronics?hs_amp=true

[@CorruptionManX]

@@BladeBanter Yes, I've seen this and other articles that talk about negative impacts of mineral oil. But they always mention proprietary mineral oils that have more chemical additives in their composition, not pure pharmacy-grade mineral oil. However, the study you sent talks about the possibility of contaminants in pure mineral oil leading to corrosion. Anyway, I won't take any more of your time; I'll continue using mineral oil since many people use it. I just find it funny that there isn't a consensus among the manufacturers themselves. Again, I appreciate your attention in answering my questions.

[@BladeBanter]

@@CorruptionManX oh no problem I enjoy researching things and I do want to revisit the test but I want to find something more, scientific I guess where each lubricant would be fresh and could test it short term and longer term. I was almost thinking like an engine crank shaft that a electric motor would be attached at the front. Could run some cycles back and forth at slow speeds. The disconnect to manually measure resistance. Or if each had their own there would be a small motor that didn't have enough power to move the arm for direct metal to metal and a counter to see which "fails" first.
I think in general some oil or lubricant is better than raw material to reduce moisture. Just my thought