Thank you for making this I watched and followed pretty much the whole process here to just finish my 2017 6L80 myself 1st time doing it, I rebuilt my engine back in November did an AFM Delete and changed the camshaft, so when my tranny went out at 120000 miles after the first one went out at 60000 I was beyond angry with letting Chevy put there hands on my truck again. One thing I commend you on that I could find no where else online or in repair manuals is the two holes at the rear or the output. I have a 2wd and I couldn't remember before I broke down the case if those two holes get plugged or not. You are the only mechanic I found that mentioned this If it's 4x4 they get plugged, 2wd they do not. Thanks for loving your job and being as thorough as you are, you bring the faith and trust back to the profession.
Thanks so much for letting someone know what goes on a 6L80 or 90 transmission I watched the video from beginning to end.. an when my 2015 GMC serria gets rebuilt.. I can only pray that they do as good of work as you do for only about 4400.00 dollars…. Thanks again!!!
As a fellow content creator, I can really appreciate the amount of effort it takes to make one of these videos. Thank you so much. I'm about to tackle my 2nd ever AT rebuild (first being the 700R4). Without videos like this it would be impossible to do it right. The tips and tricks along the way make or break the rebuild. Wish me luck! My first attempt failed when the 700R4 lost the front pump after my rebuild. I'm hoping this time I do a better job! The 6L80e appears more rebuild-friendly than the 700R4 but I will find out!
6L80 is a pretty good unit to build. Read through the comments here for some additional info. One supplement I'd like to add when I get the chance is using 1500 grit paper to polish the aluminum that the pistons seal against. I ought to do that soon. Thanks for watching!
Where is your shop dude .I have a 6L90 I think needs rebuild 2018 GMC Sierra but I'm having hard time trusting people with this issue been told souch BS don't know what to believe@@scatteredrustyprojects
Just finished mine. Its MIDNIGHT 🥵 2 months without the family Yukon, but I saved myself $5,000 👌 thank u for the video! My original 6L80 went 248k miles before the torque converter broke! GMC for the win!
Hey Mark, Great video, Enjoyed it from start to finish, very well detailed and informative, great to watch a pro at work making it all look easy. Those years of experience and the right tools are what it takes to do what you do. Thanks for sharing , and thanks for the shifting repair you did for me on my 08 Silverado. Bill Western Mass USA
I like the fact that you said worked to death, not junk, I have a 2008 GMC 2500hd that has a 6l90 with 243,000 miles and it's still working good. I do abuse it a little. Now that I said that, it will probably crumble,,, lol
Thank you for making this video. I want to learn to build these units. I never knew that you could re use clutches if they are still good and not burnt up. I always thought you just replace them either way.
When we pull the parts out of our instaclean we have to immediately rinse the parts with hot water blow them dry or the film is not good. Good job thank you.
we've found the aluminum surfaces in the center support and pistons in the 123435r drum need to be polished with fine sand paper like 800 or 1500 grit. Otherwise, the aluminum can be etched and prematurely scuff the new bonded pistons. Thanks for watching!
What happened to yours mate? My 2014 SS just let go on me yesterday with 60'000kms on the clock, got it booked in a few days tech reckons it might be a failed torque converter.
@Jimbo_Waz it was converter material building up and clogging the filter . This trans should be serviced every 45k km. At least the ones with stock converter
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I didn't catch what was used to clean the TECHM. I have some metallic in areas of my TECHM and not sure what to clean it with. I cleaned everything else in kerosene. Was considering a can of brake parts cleaner and lots of air. Wasn't sure if it would be too harsh but wanted to clean it up before removing the seal plate so no metallic gets in there. Thanks again for sharing..
Sorry I didn't see this before. Brake clean and compressed air is good to use. Just be careful with the air. If it's regulated down to 40 psi it's a bit safer to not damage anything. If there is a lot of contamination or high mileage, you might want to replace the techm.
Yes, the resurfacing procedure is to deepen the pocket enough to remove the gouges. Then restore proper depth by cutting the top of the channel the same amount. This machining increases front endplay which we compensate for with a thicker pump thrust washer.
Thanks! It's gratifying to accomplish this work. My parents are proud of the strides I've made. The Cougar stuff has been keeping me busy lately, but it sounds like it's time for another transmission video. Thanks for watching!
Hello Mark - great vid. Very clear and detailed. Kudos man !! Unfortunately, getting a rebuild on my 6L90 / 165K. 2500HD this month. I tow 6000lb trailer. Planning on a billet torque convertor in the rebuild, with both transgo kits. What is your opinion on following for 6L90 rebuild work truck...... 1. 456 billet clutch hub with factory dampener setup, necessary or overkill ?? 2. 1234 billet piston, necessary or overkill ?? 3. billet pump rotor, necessary or overkill ??
Hi. I can say I haven't used any of those 3 HP parts. Yes, use a quality billet cover convertor and both TransGo kits. The next best thing you can do is reprogram TCC strategy to delay lock-up until 4th or 5th gear. Shops with HP Tuners can do that and I believe there are other DLC plug-in products available to revise lock-up strategy. If you live south of Canada we have been deleting the thermostatic bypass if it contains one. An update I should do to the video is to polish the aluminum surfaces where the seals and pistons ride. They get scratches and certain cleaning processes can leave the surface etched. This scrubs away the pistons over time and shortens trans life. Good luck!
@@scatteredrustyprojects Thankyou for your feedback, very much appreciated...... yeah - HP parts and cost plenty $$ each - looking at some options for known tranny failure points/weaknesses. I guess my $5.5k rebuild vs a $6.5K with greater longevity. I just cant afford more "truck down" time.
@@hockeynut088Forgot to mention we also install a 1234-35R drum with higher clutch capacity. We've done quite a few trans in service trucks, 1-ton dump trucks and other vehicles that get loaded and never needed the billet stuff. The billet is for the turbo'ed vehicles making 1000 hp and getting pounded.
What transmission rebuild kit is the best bang for your buck. Which kits do you recommend. I know im getting a new torque converter and a sonnax zip kit. What rebuild kit do you think would work also after that a possibly a part number. Thank you.
I use transmission parts suppliers like Transtar, VTP or WIT. The WIT kit is lacking a couple things, one of them being the bearing at the front of the 1234-35R drum. Lately, I've been using the AC Delco seal kit, buying a set of bonded pistons and replacing only clutches that need to be replaced. I haven't used the Zip Kit.....it looks like it has what you need. If you aren't changing the Techm, take a close look at the pressure switch films....they can split and leak. Watch for galling in the pump area. Two bushings important to replace are the pump bushing and input shaft/456 drum rear bushing.
Tan check balls are what we prefer. They do come in most overhaul kits. The clear/white-ish balls wear down and create problems, so we avoid those. Look through the other comments here about polishing aluminum piston surfaces.
@@scatteredrustyprojects thanks for the reply. I just finished machining my pump cover. That bolt trick to remove the dowel was awesome! I'm a machinist, and mechanical engineer, but this is my first transmission build. Your video has been super helpful. I'm still putting together my parts list and having some difficulty settling on the exact rebuild kit to buy. My Yukon has 192k and other than the 4-5-6 clutch frictions, all my clutches looked great, so I wasn't really planning to do steels.
@@danielcolwell1477 it's fun machining the bell being it is eccentric. Did you get the thick end play washer? --Sonnax 33452A Endplay is added when the pump channel surface and stator face are machined. Sometime soon, I will add a supplement video to this talking about using 1500 grit to polish the aluminum surfaces where the piston seals ride. The surfaces become rough with scratches through use with metallic suspended in the fluid and also, an aqueous cleaning method can etch the surfaces. This roughness will scrub the pistons, wearing them to leak in a matter of months.
@@scatteredrustyprojects I opted not to machine the bell housing. It was pretty cheap online to just buy a new one. But since the other half could just be done in a lathe that was too easy not to machine it. I'm assuming I don't need that thick end play washer since I'm just going to buy a brand new bell housing?
@@danielcolwell1477 ther eis quite a bit of endplay in stock form, like a thick washer could be put in there even without machining. It isn't too fussy. If you took .008" or more off the stator than I would suggest the thicker pump washer.
My second gear (solenoid B ) is stuck on. I haven’t done a oil change on my Transmission ever . I bought it at 35,000 and now I’m on 159 ,000. I pulled the pan down and my oil is black and burnt. I was just going to change out the filter, valve body where the solenoids sits and add new trans oil. I did hear the pump wind before the solenoid got stuck on. Do you think I need to do a full rebuild or do the stuff I just mentioned? I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado with 2 wheel drive , 5.3l v8 .
What if the truck runs and goes in reverse? The only thing is it won’t move when in a complete stop it’ll just rev but it’s only when it’s in 1st gear once it starts moving everything works fine
If it won't move in D, but will in manual 1, that could be a failed low sprag. Have to monitor speed sensor data on scanner and do some other checks to verify. I feel like there is another cause to this symptom, but I'd have to research to see.
Great tutorial. I just finished rebuilding my 6l80e transmission. My question is, can I drive it to the shop to get it flashed. The shop is about 100 miles away. Would it do damage in any way?
Most of the time, not always, if the techm has no program, it won't have engagement. 100 miles? If it had engagement and in a middle gear I'd be concerned with taking it more than a block or so. Try to find someone local.
Hey mark what an amazing indepth video! I just replaced the solenoid pack on my buddies 2015 1500 and we get no park/drive indications on the dash and after it's first start and shift it would no longer start as it thinks it's not in park. I'm guessing the neutral safety switch is not engaged as I never touched it. But could it be anything else? Do they need programming? Please advise 😢
if you got a new Techm from GM it will need programming and won't show shift position until programmed. I believe the aftermarket like Dorman are the same. It's possible the NS switch isn't engaged with the manual valve. Or the manual valve isn't engaged with the pin on the rooster comb---detent plate.
@@scatteredrustyprojects can it be programmed once installed, or do I have to remove it and can I do it at home with something like the Chevy version of forscan or is it a dealership thing?
@@shadow6958 I program using a J2534 pass through using ACDelco Service Programing. This is done with the techm in the vehicle through the data link connector. I've heard of other people programming the techm on the bench. Being I don't export units, I haven't looked into that method. Many independent shops are set up to do the pass through programming.. With either independent or a dealership, you'd have to tow the vehicle there. Also, I believe shops that have HPTuners can program a blank techm. With HPTuners, the final touches of revising the TCC partial apply on 2nd gear to a full TCC apply in 4th or 5th would be a great benefit to this trans.
@@shadow6958 I've only heard a little about Forscan. Not sure on the capabilities. Some of it sounds intriguing. I use Delco for GM and Motorcraft for Ford. It is rare enough if I need to program anything else that I would just take it to that dealer.
The spec is 97 in lbs. While possible, I doubt putting the bolts at 150 would be the cause of the rotor to shatter. If clearance was too tight it could seize. The #1 cause of rotor damage is the convertor was not fully engaged during trans to engine installation. Or, a big enough piece of something got past the filter to lodge in the pump.
Is there an upgrade rebuild kit for trucks/towing application? Also, can the green assembly gel be used for the entire build, or just for needle bearings etc.?
i put in both of transgo's kit. The valving restores the common areas of wear with upgraded pieces. An additional clutch can be added to certain drums to increase capacity. Heavy duty torque converters are available. Plus, changing the tune aspects will also increase capacity.....need to find someone with HP tuners to make those calibration adjustments. The green transgel is fine to use everywhere. For any color transgel, don't use more than to need. The dealership uses only trans fluid for assembly.
All that work but nothing showing the torque converter....just a bell housing at the beginning and the end....what did you do? Did you put in a billet torque converter?
So maybe someone can help me out with an answer to this, i dont live in the states, i live near germany, nobody here seems to have worked on these transmission here yet. My issue is the 2nd gear, the transmission "floats" or "slips" with lots of throttle applied. The rpm rises but the car doesnt really go accordingly. I think i have to rebuild my transmission by myself. What will be the issue? New clutchplate pack? Im a car mechanic but i never did automatic transmissions ever (yet)
Great Video> I really enjoyed it. I have a 6L80 in my 2013 Camaro SS with over 600HP and more HP coming. It slips going into 3rd. So I'm going to rebuild it with all Sonnax upgraded parts and high Performance clutches and steels. I'm suspecting a cracked 1234/35R drum. Or the piston that is known to crack. I'd like to have a more positive or harsh shift. You mention in one segment of your video, that if you left out one of the wave plates you would have a harsh shift. I want a harsh shift. Is that something I could do and maybe replace the wave plates with steels? Just wondering. I would really appreciate your expertise. Thanks.
I just had my 2016 done back in June. They replaced it with one they had on the shelf. I paid 6200 for it with a limited lifetime warranty. Is that in the ball park? It did have 180000 on it when it let go.
WIth pricing, there are variables with region, shop over head and such that affect pricing. Lifetime warranty is crazy on one of these or any transmission, but then not sure how "limited" takes away from that.
The 4-5-6 drum on mine has very burnt clutches and obvious signs of over heating. The drum that holds the clutches is blue. Can I reuse the drum or is it best to replace it?
We see a lot of the 456 burnt up, I can't say I remember ever replacing the drum. Not sure how bad yours might be. Check to see how well the pressure plate moves over the length of the splines, the heat could have made it wider at the top. Look for gouging where the steel plates will spline in. It's a big job, so if you have doubts, it might be best to replace it. If reusing the drum, scrape out all the metallic sediment that builds up. Check your pressure plate for flatness, replace if cupped. It sounds like you will be replacing the steels and wavy. The snap ring will get "reset" from the heat to a smaller diameter. I usually stretch them open a little, just gotta be careful not to make it out of round. Check fitment of the small bushing to the 456 clutch hub pilot. We replace that bushing as part of rebuild.
Awesome thank you ! Appreciate your response. Also the big reverse drum the bearing on the bottom with that lip seal built in. What do you use to change that bearing? The seal on mine is damaged due to me thinking it was an o ring. I can’t find any tool to pull that bearing out.
@@FleetTech97 I have a small pry bar that seems to work pretty well. I use and arbor press to install the new one. Perhaps you can put the bearing on the bench with the drum on top and push the drum down to get the bearing mostly in. Use some type of driver to push down on the center of the drum . Then find something to push the bearing in flush with the drum surface.
Eh...yeah. Being we typically see the torque convertor failing 75-100k. Had a one not too long ago with only 32K and one with 46K. Also though, it depends on usage. In my area the closest highway is 45-50 minutes away. It's mostly traveling at 30-50 mph where the torque convertor clutch is always in a "controlled slip" and rarely fully locked up. This works the convertor to an death, sometimes resulting in convertor replacement or sometimes rebuild.
@@scatteredrustyprojects thanks for the reply, I feel like I did ok on mine then, I did maintenance every year on mine since new,,cycle between a flush and pan drop every year rather the miles we’re there or not.
I don't remember the bill on this one. In my shop for a complete job with rebuild and R&R. 6L80-90 tend to be somewhere in the range of 3800 to 5500, depending on extent of internal damage, whether it needs Techm and other variables like cooler lines. mounts, U-joints etc.
If you ever get tired of working on transmissions, you could be a brain surgeon! I was thinking of working on my 2010 Suburban 6l80 - needs a pressure control solenoid. However, this is WAY ABOVE my pay grade! I am sticking to investment banking - way easier!
The GM seal kit does not come with the bearing in the back of the drum which has an integrated seal that needs to be in good condition or replaced. It's more than a lube seal. It holds compensator feed oil which can have an affect on shifting. With that in mind, you may want to use Transtar as their kit does include that bearing. The WIT kit did not. Depending on where you are, a local transmission parts supplier may or may not include the 1234-35R drum bearing.
Whether brand new, reman, rebuilt or used...every transmission has a limited life. There are many variables that come into play with transmission life span. Back when I worked at a dealership, we'd have a nearly brand new vehicle that something went wrong in the trans. Other times I've seen people get 400,000 miles and never change the fluid and filter. Best hope for longevity is to perform proper maintenance, but it's not a guarantee to never experience a problem. The trans in the video is being rebuilt and it is not new. New is just what it is, new. New is all components have never been used in any application. Rebuild and Reman are very pretty much the same form. Reman usually signifies a rebuild was done in a factory somewhere else. Rebuild and reman is a service that varies based on who is performing the work. As in you have people that will do the minimum or people that try to make it the best they can. We rebuild to restore damaged components to proper specs and upgrade the known problem areas for best case longevity using HD parts or better designed parts. We like to say we build it to live a "normal life". Not just make it out of warranty. Normal trans life depends on the vehicle design and usage application. Normal life is a lifespan similar to the original life of a new unit. Generally, 100k miles is normal life.
A while back I decided not to work on transmissions that I wasn't installing, so we only do local work. If there is much distance, the smallest problem becomes a big complication. Thanks for watching!
That was definitely a problem. A bigger problem would have been the trans wasn't connected to the engine or the drive shaft anymore. Thanks for watching!
![CAMPปลิ้น | รวม Highlight 2024! PART [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6hnvNnvYloU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for making this I watched and followed pretty much the whole process here to just finish my 2017 6L80 myself 1st time doing it, I rebuilt my engine back in November did an AFM Delete and changed the camshaft, so when my tranny went out at 120000 miles after the first one went out at 60000 I was beyond angry with letting Chevy put there hands on my truck again. One thing I commend you on that I could find no where else online or in repair manuals is the two holes at the rear or the output. I have a 2wd and I couldn't remember before I broke down the case if those two holes get plugged or not. You are the only mechanic I found that mentioned this If it's 4x4 they get plugged, 2wd they do not. Thanks for loving your job and being as thorough as you are, you bring the faith and trust back to the profession.
Thanks so much for letting someone know what goes on a 6L80 or 90 transmission I watched the video from beginning to end.. an when my 2015 GMC serria gets rebuilt.. I can only pray that they do as good of work as you do for only about 4400.00 dollars…. Thanks again!!!
There are a lot of good shops out there, hopefully you find one when and if you need it. Thanks for watching!
@@scatteredrustyprojects
Yes here where I live it’s a highly recommended one called jay Egge transmission..
@@scatteredrustyprojects
GEARSTAR in akron ohio
@@scatteredrustyprojectswhere are you located and what does a full rebuild like this cost for a 2wd or 4wd chevrolet or gmc pickup truck
@@blckhulk North Adams, Massachusetts. Sorry to say I don't do any shipping of trans. Only local. Thanks for watching!
As a fellow content creator, I can really appreciate the amount of effort it takes to make one of these videos. Thank you so much. I'm about to tackle my 2nd ever AT rebuild (first being the 700R4). Without videos like this it would be impossible to do it right. The tips and tricks along the way make or break the rebuild. Wish me luck! My first attempt failed when the 700R4 lost the front pump after my rebuild. I'm hoping this time I do a better job! The 6L80e appears more rebuild-friendly than the 700R4 but I will find out!
6L80 is a pretty good unit to build. Read through the comments here for some additional info. One supplement I'd like to add when I get the chance is using 1500 grit paper to polish the aluminum that the pistons seal against. I ought to do that soon. Thanks for watching!
Where is your shop dude .I have a 6L90 I think needs rebuild 2018 GMC Sierra but I'm having hard time trusting people with this issue been told souch BS don't know what to believe@@scatteredrustyprojects
Just finished mine. Its MIDNIGHT 🥵 2 months without the family Yukon, but I saved myself $5,000 👌 thank u for the video! My original 6L80 went 248k miles before the torque converter broke! GMC for the win!
Hey Mark, Great video, Enjoyed it from start to finish, very well detailed and informative, great to watch a pro at work making it all look easy. Those years of experience and the right tools are what it takes to do what you do. Thanks for sharing , and thanks for the shifting repair you did for me on my 08 Silverado.
Bill
Western Mass USA
I like the fact that you said worked to death, not junk, I have a 2008 GMC 2500hd that has a 6l90 with 243,000 miles and it's still working good. I do abuse it a little. Now that I said that, it will probably crumble,,, lol
...knock on wood.
Some things are just better left to the pros. Great detailed video!!!
Thank you for making this video. I want to learn to build these units. I never knew that you could re use clutches if they are still good and not burnt up. I always thought you just replace them either way.
When we pull the parts out of our instaclean we have to immediately rinse the parts with hot water blow them dry or the film is not good. Good job thank you.
we've found the aluminum surfaces in the center support and pistons in the 123435r drum need to be polished with fine sand paper like 800 or 1500 grit. Otherwise, the aluminum can be etched and prematurely scuff the new bonded pistons. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing mate. I just paid 8K australian dollars to have my 6l80 rebuild. Next time i will have a go myself.
What happened to yours mate? My 2014 SS just let go on me yesterday with 60'000kms on the clock, got it booked in a few days tech reckons it might be a failed torque converter.
@Jimbo_Waz it was converter material building up and clogging the filter . This trans should be serviced every 45k km. At least the ones with stock converter
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I didn't catch what was used to clean the TECHM. I have some metallic in areas of my TECHM and not sure what to clean it with. I cleaned everything else in kerosene. Was considering a can of brake parts cleaner and lots of air. Wasn't sure if it would be too harsh but wanted to clean it up before removing the seal plate so no metallic gets in there. Thanks again for sharing..
Sorry I didn't see this before. Brake clean and compressed air is good to use. Just be careful with the air. If it's regulated down to 40 psi it's a bit safer to not damage anything. If there is a lot of contamination or high mileage, you might want to replace the techm.
Hi, Mark; Doesn't the pump slide spring pocket need to deepened to prevent biding? I hear this happens after machining?
Yes, the resurfacing procedure is to deepen the pocket enough to remove the gouges. Then restore proper depth by cutting the top of the channel the same amount. This machining increases front endplay which we compensate for with a thicker pump thrust washer.
Thank you buddy hope you get a billion views
Very informative video, thank you, Mark.
Those personal touches are why I'm here bro 👍
very well done lad. i'm a really big fan, thanks for all you do. bet your parents are mighty proud!
Thanks! It's gratifying to accomplish this work. My parents are proud of the strides I've made. The Cougar stuff has been keeping me busy lately, but it sounds like it's time for another transmission video. Thanks for watching!
Find you to be a true craftsmen, thanks for sharing
Do you by chance have part numbers for all the parts you used? The rebuild kit, the Transgo parts etc. thanks
35:28 SOME 6L80s have only SEVEN check balls. Throwing this out there so that some people dont get a heart attack looking for the missing one
Thank you!!! Great video
Good Video sounds like you know what you're talkin about!
There is something new to learn in this industry every day. Thanks for watching!
Hello Mark - great vid. Very clear and detailed. Kudos man !!
Unfortunately, getting a rebuild on my 6L90 / 165K. 2500HD this month. I tow 6000lb trailer.
Planning on a billet torque convertor in the rebuild, with both transgo kits.
What is your opinion on following for 6L90 rebuild work truck......
1. 456 billet clutch hub with factory dampener setup, necessary or overkill ??
2. 1234 billet piston, necessary or overkill ??
3. billet pump rotor, necessary or overkill ??
Hi. I can say I haven't used any of those 3 HP parts. Yes, use a quality billet cover convertor and both TransGo kits. The next best thing you can do is reprogram TCC strategy to delay lock-up until 4th or 5th gear. Shops with HP Tuners can do that and I believe there are other DLC plug-in products available to revise lock-up strategy. If you live south of Canada we have been deleting the thermostatic bypass if it contains one. An update I should do to the video is to polish the aluminum surfaces where the seals and pistons ride. They get scratches and certain cleaning processes can leave the surface etched. This scrubs away the pistons over time and shortens trans life. Good luck!
@@scatteredrustyprojects Thankyou for your feedback, very much appreciated......
yeah - HP parts and cost plenty $$ each - looking at some options for known tranny failure points/weaknesses. I guess my $5.5k rebuild vs a $6.5K with greater longevity. I just cant afford more "truck down" time.
@@scatteredrustyprojects Thanks for the HP Tuners and tranny" lockup strategy" I'm going to look into that.
@@hockeynut088Forgot to mention we also install a 1234-35R drum with higher clutch capacity. We've done quite a few trans in service trucks, 1-ton dump trucks and other vehicles that get loaded and never needed the billet stuff. The billet is for the turbo'ed vehicles making 1000 hp and getting pounded.
@@scatteredrustyprojects Is it transtar drum ? Any part number for that drum/kit ?
I really like videos like this. Good job!
There will be more. Thanks for subscribing! Delllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll...........................
How do I get in contact with you to have a transmission built?
What transmission rebuild kit is the best bang for your buck. Which kits do you recommend. I know im getting a new torque converter and a sonnax zip kit. What rebuild kit do you think would work also after that a possibly a part number. Thank you.
I use transmission parts suppliers like Transtar, VTP or WIT. The WIT kit is lacking a couple things, one of them being the bearing at the front of the 1234-35R drum. Lately, I've been using the AC Delco seal kit, buying a set of bonded pistons and replacing only clutches that need to be replaced. I haven't used the Zip Kit.....it looks like it has what you need. If you aren't changing the Techm, take a close look at the pressure switch films....they can split and leak. Watch for galling in the pump area. Two bushings important to replace are the pump bushing and input shaft/456 drum rear bushing.
Thanks for this great video!, May I ask where did you get that pressure test tool for piston?
Richard Wardell in Georgia.
Do the new check balls come in a kit? I cant seem to find the black ones that you used at 2:09:27
Tan check balls are what we prefer. They do come in most overhaul kits. The clear/white-ish balls wear down and create problems, so we avoid those. Look through the other comments here about polishing aluminum piston surfaces.
@@scatteredrustyprojects thanks for the reply. I just finished machining my pump cover. That bolt trick to remove the dowel was awesome!
I'm a machinist, and mechanical engineer, but this is my first transmission build. Your video has been super helpful. I'm still putting together my parts list and having some difficulty settling on the exact rebuild kit to buy. My Yukon has 192k and other than the 4-5-6 clutch frictions, all my clutches looked great, so I wasn't really planning to do steels.
@@danielcolwell1477 it's fun machining the bell being it is eccentric. Did you get the thick end play washer? --Sonnax 33452A Endplay is added when the pump channel surface and stator face are machined. Sometime soon, I will add a supplement video to this talking about using 1500 grit to polish the aluminum surfaces where the piston seals ride. The surfaces become rough with scratches through use with metallic suspended in the fluid and also, an aqueous cleaning method can etch the surfaces. This roughness will scrub the pistons, wearing them to leak in a matter of months.
@@scatteredrustyprojects I opted not to machine the bell housing. It was pretty cheap online to just buy a new one. But since the other half could just be done in a lathe that was too easy not to machine it. I'm assuming I don't need that thick end play washer since I'm just going to buy a brand new bell housing?
@@danielcolwell1477 ther eis quite a bit of endplay in stock form, like a thick washer could be put in there even without machining. It isn't too fussy. If you took .008" or more off the stator than I would suggest the thicker pump washer.
My second gear (solenoid B ) is stuck on. I haven’t done a oil change on my Transmission ever . I bought it at 35,000 and now I’m on 159 ,000. I pulled the pan down and my oil is black and burnt. I was just going to change out the filter, valve body where the solenoids sits and add new trans oil. I did hear the pump wind before the solenoid got stuck on. Do you think I need to do a full rebuild or do the stuff I just mentioned? I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado with 2 wheel drive , 5.3l v8 .
What if the truck runs and goes in reverse? The only thing is it won’t move when in a complete stop it’ll just rev but it’s only when it’s in 1st gear once it starts moving everything works fine
If it won't move in D, but will in manual 1, that could be a failed low sprag. Have to monitor speed sensor data on scanner and do some other checks to verify. I feel like there is another cause to this symptom, but I'd have to research to see.
Nice video, thanks so much for sharing, do you have any 62TE and 6F35???
Yes. For popularity, the 62te and 6F35 are almost as common as the 6L80.
Great tutorial. I just finished rebuilding my 6l80e transmission. My question is, can I drive it to the shop to get it flashed. The shop is about 100 miles away. Would it do damage in any way?
Most of the time, not always, if the techm has no program, it won't have engagement. 100 miles? If it had engagement and in a middle gear I'd be concerned with taking it more than a block or so. Try to find someone local.
@scatteredrustyprojects it drove perfectly after rebuild. No new techm. Shifting great. Thanks
@@brassskills6084 excellent! glad to hear that.
Hey mark what an amazing indepth video! I just replaced the solenoid pack on my buddies 2015 1500 and we get no park/drive indications on the dash and after it's first start and shift it would no longer start as it thinks it's not in park. I'm guessing the neutral safety switch is not engaged as I never touched it. But could it be anything else? Do they need programming? Please advise 😢
if you got a new Techm from GM it will need programming and won't show shift position until programmed. I believe the aftermarket like Dorman are the same. It's possible the NS switch isn't engaged with the manual valve. Or the manual valve isn't engaged with the pin on the rooster comb---detent plate.
@@scatteredrustyprojects can it be programmed once installed, or do I have to remove it and can I do it at home with something like the Chevy version of forscan or is it a dealership thing?
@@shadow6958 I program using a J2534 pass through using ACDelco Service Programing. This is done with the techm in the vehicle through the data link connector. I've heard of other people programming the techm on the bench. Being I don't export units, I haven't looked into that method. Many independent shops are set up to do the pass through programming.. With either independent or a dealership, you'd have to tow the vehicle there. Also, I believe shops that have HPTuners can program a blank techm. With HPTuners, the final touches of revising the TCC partial apply on 2nd gear to a full TCC apply in 4th or 5th would be a great benefit to this trans.
@@shadow6958 I've only heard a little about Forscan. Not sure on the capabilities. Some of it sounds intriguing. I use Delco for GM and Motorcraft for Ford. It is rare enough if I need to program anything else that I would just take it to that dealer.
Would over tightening pump bolts to 150 lbs torque cause pump rotor to fail and break in pieces.?
The spec is 97 in lbs. While possible, I doubt putting the bolts at 150 would be the cause of the rotor to shatter. If clearance was too tight it could seize. The #1 cause of rotor damage is the convertor was not fully engaged during trans to engine installation. Or, a big enough piece of something got past the filter to lodge in the pump.
Is there an upgrade rebuild kit for trucks/towing application? Also, can the green assembly gel be used for the entire build, or just for needle bearings etc.?
i put in both of transgo's kit. The valving restores the common areas of wear with upgraded pieces. An additional clutch can be added to certain drums to increase capacity. Heavy duty torque converters are available. Plus, changing the tune aspects will also increase capacity.....need to find someone with HP tuners to make those calibration adjustments. The green transgel is fine to use everywhere. For any color transgel, don't use more than to need. The dealership uses only trans fluid for assembly.
All that work but nothing showing the torque converter....just a bell housing at the beginning and the end....what did you do?
Did you put in a billet torque converter?
yes, a billet cover torque convertor from a reputable rebuilder
So maybe someone can help me out with an answer to this, i dont live in the states, i live near germany, nobody here seems to have worked on these transmission here yet.
My issue is the 2nd gear, the transmission "floats" or "slips" with lots of throttle applied. The rpm rises but the car doesnt really go accordingly.
I think i have to rebuild my transmission by myself. What will be the issue? New clutchplate pack?
Im a car mechanic but i never did automatic transmissions ever (yet)
Great Video> I really enjoyed it. I have a 6L80 in my 2013 Camaro SS with over 600HP and more HP coming. It slips going into 3rd. So I'm going to rebuild it with all Sonnax upgraded parts and high Performance clutches and steels. I'm suspecting a cracked 1234/35R drum. Or the piston that is known to crack. I'd like to have a more positive or harsh shift. You mention in one segment of your video, that if you left out one of the wave plates you would have a harsh shift. I want a harsh shift. Is that something I could do and maybe replace the wave plates with steels? Just wondering. I would really appreciate your expertise. Thanks.
Circle D makes a level 4 kit..
I just had my 2016 done back in June. They replaced it with one they had on the shelf. I paid 6200 for it with a limited lifetime warranty. Is that in the ball park? It did have 180000 on it when it let go.
WIth pricing, there are variables with region, shop over head and such that affect pricing. Lifetime warranty is crazy on one of these or any transmission, but then not sure how "limited" takes away from that.
You paid $6200 for a transmission? 🙄
Awesome video wish I could do what you do man!
The 4-5-6 drum on mine has very burnt clutches and obvious signs of over heating. The drum that holds the clutches is blue. Can I reuse the drum or is it best to replace it?
We see a lot of the 456 burnt up, I can't say I remember ever replacing the drum. Not sure how bad yours might be. Check to see how well the pressure plate moves over the length of the splines, the heat could have made it wider at the top. Look for gouging where the steel plates will spline in. It's a big job, so if you have doubts, it might be best to replace it. If reusing the drum, scrape out all the metallic sediment that builds up. Check your pressure plate for flatness, replace if cupped. It sounds like you will be replacing the steels and wavy. The snap ring will get "reset" from the heat to a smaller diameter. I usually stretch them open a little, just gotta be careful not to make it out of round. Check fitment of the small bushing to the 456 clutch hub pilot. We replace that bushing as part of rebuild.
Awesome thank you ! Appreciate your response. Also the big reverse drum the bearing on the bottom with that lip seal built in. What do you use to change that bearing? The seal on mine is damaged due to me thinking it was an o ring. I can’t find any tool to pull that bearing out.
@@FleetTech97 I have a small pry bar that seems to work pretty well. I use and arbor press to install the new one. Perhaps you can put the bearing on the bench with the drum on top and push the drum down to get the bearing mostly in. Use some type of driver to push down on the center of the drum . Then find something to push the bearing in flush with the drum surface.
Hey mark where you located. I would like to get my trans rebuilt by you.
How many clutches in all in a 6l80
What is the best oil to use in this transmission?
Dex 6
So your saying 150,000 is good milage on a 6L80 considering I pull every day about a 3,500lb trailer? Mines getting a rebuild as I type this.
Eh...yeah. Being we typically see the torque convertor failing 75-100k. Had a one not too long ago with only 32K and one with 46K. Also though, it depends on usage. In my area the closest highway is 45-50 minutes away. It's mostly traveling at 30-50 mph where the torque convertor clutch is always in a "controlled slip" and rarely fully locked up. This works the convertor to an death, sometimes resulting in convertor replacement or sometimes rebuild.
@@scatteredrustyprojects thanks for the reply, I feel like I did ok on mine then, I did maintenance every year on mine since new,,cycle between a flush and pan drop every year rather the miles we’re there or not.
Where are you guys located, interested in getting my 6l80 rebuild
North Adams, Massachusetts. Unfortunately , I don't export trans if you are far away.
Hey I need a 6L90 rebuilt. Is that something you would do?
If you are local to me, yes. If you are far away then, no. Distance creates a complication if something were to need adjustment.
How long does this job take from start to finish?
diagnostic, removal, rebuild, flushing cooler, usually replacing cooler lines, installation, road testing.....about 16 hours
So how much $$$$ was this rebuild??? just curious.
I don't remember the bill on this one. In my shop for a complete job with rebuild and R&R. 6L80-90 tend to be somewhere in the range of 3800 to 5500, depending on extent of internal damage, whether it needs Techm and other variables like cooler lines. mounts, U-joints etc.
If you ever get tired of working on transmissions, you could be a brain surgeon! I was thinking of working on my 2010 Suburban 6l80 - needs a pressure control solenoid. However, this is WAY ABOVE my pay grade! I am sticking to investment banking - way easier!
Rebuild kit recommendations?
Lately, I'v ebeen using the GM seal kit, a bonded piston kit from any of the suppliers and selectively replacing clutches.
The GM seal kit does not come with the bearing in the back of the drum which has an integrated seal that needs to be in good condition or replaced. It's more than a lube seal. It holds compensator feed oil which can have an affect on shifting. With that in mind, you may want to use Transtar as their kit does include that bearing. The WIT kit did not. Depending on where you are, a local transmission parts supplier may or may not include the 1234-35R drum bearing.
Right on.
TY
Will this be considered a brand new or rebuilt transmission that will only last a certain amount of miles?😢
Whether brand new, reman, rebuilt or used...every transmission has a limited life. There are many variables that come into play with transmission life span. Back when I worked at a dealership, we'd have a nearly brand new vehicle that something went wrong in the trans. Other times I've seen people get 400,000 miles and never change the fluid and filter. Best hope for longevity is to perform proper maintenance, but it's not a guarantee to never experience a problem. The trans in the video is being rebuilt and it is not new. New is just what it is, new. New is all components have never been used in any application. Rebuild and Reman are very pretty much the same form. Reman usually signifies a rebuild was done in a factory somewhere else. Rebuild and reman is a service that varies based on who is performing the work. As in you have people that will do the minimum or people that try to make it the best they can. We rebuild to restore damaged components to proper specs and upgrade the known problem areas for best case longevity using HD parts or better designed parts. We like to say we build it to live a "normal life". Not just make it out of warranty. Normal trans life depends on the vehicle design and usage application. Normal life is a lifespan similar to the original life of a new unit. Generally, 100k miles is normal life.
Where u located?
North Adams, Massachusetts
Can I send my 6l80 trans to you for rebuild?
A while back I decided not to work on transmissions that I wasn't installing, so we only do local work. If there is much distance, the smallest problem becomes a big complication. Thanks for watching!
@@scatteredrustyprojects That makes total sense to me man and I really like your approach to things. Keep up the good work 👍🏽
u forgot to cut the edge of housing now your stater will sit 10thousand lower you can have to much play inside the trans
That is why we use a thicker washer on the pump to correct endplay.
Theres ur problem. Did u see how much oil came out when that pan was removed? Nothing. Lol.
That was definitely a problem. A bigger problem would have been the trans wasn't connected to the engine or the drive shaft anymore. Thanks for watching!
Did u catch the Mickey Mouse oil spill
at which time was it?
Drinking game-take a shot every time he says 'metallic'!
good viedo