Thanks for the video. Looks like you have to pretty much completely disassemble the door just to get at the latch. No wonder Ford won't cover this in a recall it must cost a fortune. I've only had trouble with my front doors (2018), but it seems the rear doors have the same latches (and similar cables/clasps, etc)? I'm wondering if a thorough repair will require all four doors. I'll have to save for a while. Thanks again. Maybe if you're bored you can do a rear door some day.
thank you very much for this video.. i had to replace the sensor on my and you were a huge help on the repair.. wasnt somthing i would have been able to do if i didnt watch this..
This is an excellent video! I wanted to figure out if I was going to do this myself or let the dealership do it. Definitely seems straightforward, but also quite obnoxious.
Appreciate the compliment! You're right that there's nothing really difficult here, just a LOT of steps to do what seems like it should be a simple task. If you decide to do it yourself just make sure to set aside a good chunk of time.
just did mine.. it wasnt hard but not easy either.. juuuuuuust be sure to disconnect the door latch cable as u pull the door panel off. if u drop panel adn cable connected, it will break.. know this by mistake.
The grooves where the window is supposed to go into place wont align? Window worked perfect before. The cables are somewhat out of place. Any idea on this?
If you’re talking about the grooves that run along the outer end of the windows, there are a couple of things you can try. Sometimes the window doesn’t want to go in right away. First make sure all cables are out of the way and snapped in where they should be. Then when you’re installing it twist it around and wiggle as you install. You have to have it at an angle and get one side then twist into place. Hope this helps or that you already got it figured out.
Technically you can use masking tape to hold the window up instead of actually taking it all the way out, but I've had the tape fail and the window drop so I just take it out. The reason for doing either of these is that the track that moves the window up and down on the latch side needs to be moved out of the way to get to the door latch assembly. That door latch is really buried inside the door.
You need to remove the glass so you can move the window regulator out of the way, so you can get the latch assembly out. It's a pain in the ass, typical Ford design
Its no wonder Ford doesn't want to fix this for customers. All four of my 2016 doors have frozen over the years. Can't imagine doing this on all 4 doors. Thanks for the insight. This other video is far simpler replacing the actuator instead of the latch. I guess I'm confused as this what the actual fix is? th-cam.com/video/zjHX5sWcSYY/w-d-xo.html
The actual fix is replacing the latch with an updated part that has heavier springs that pull the latch closed when there is ice from condensation on the cable. The actuator is the electronic part that locks and unlocks the door when you hit the button on the fob or the door. Replacing that part will not fix the freeze issue. Only replacing the actual latch with the updated part will fix the issue. I have gotten to test the new latch assembly on my two front doors this winter with some temps in the teens and so far no issues. I know this is a lot of work for all 4 doors, but it's really the only way to permanently fix the issue. That being said, I still need to do this on my back doors, but I don't use them as much on a daily basis so I'm putting that off for now.
Thanks for the video. Looks like you have to pretty much completely disassemble the door just to get at the latch. No wonder Ford won't cover this in a recall it must cost a fortune. I've only had trouble with my front doors (2018), but it seems the rear doors have the same latches (and similar cables/clasps, etc)? I'm wondering if a thorough repair will require all four doors. I'll have to save for a while. Thanks again. Maybe if you're bored you can do a rear door some day.
thank you very much for this video.. i had to replace the sensor on my and you were a huge help on the repair.. wasnt somthing i would have been able to do if i didnt watch this..
Glad the video was helpful.
thank you very much.. i think my door sensor is bad. got the door ajar and transmission not in park warning.. so i gotta do this this week
This is an excellent video! I wanted to figure out if I was going to do this myself or let the dealership do it. Definitely seems straightforward, but also quite obnoxious.
Appreciate the compliment! You're right that there's nothing really difficult here, just a LOT of steps to do what seems like it should be a simple task. If you decide to do it yourself just make sure to set aside a good chunk of time.
just did mine.. it wasnt hard but not easy either.. juuuuuuust be sure to disconnect the door latch cable as u pull the door panel off. if u drop panel adn cable connected, it will break.. know this by mistake.
Super easy instructions to follow!
Glad it was helpful!
The grooves where the window is supposed to go into place wont align? Window worked perfect before. The cables are somewhat out of place. Any idea on this?
If you’re talking about the grooves that run along the outer end of the windows, there are a couple of things you can try. Sometimes the window doesn’t want to go in right away. First make sure all cables are out of the way and snapped in where they should be. Then when you’re installing it twist it around and wiggle as you install. You have to have it at an angle and get one side then twist into place. Hope this helps or that you already got it figured out.
Can I ask why the glass has to be removed in order to replace the latch?
Technically you can use masking tape to hold the window up instead of actually taking it all the way out, but I've had the tape fail and the window drop so I just take it out. The reason for doing either of these is that the track that moves the window up and down on the latch side needs to be moved out of the way to get to the door latch assembly. That door latch is really buried inside the door.
You need to remove the glass so you can move the window regulator out of the way, so you can get the latch assembly out. It's a pain in the ass, typical Ford design
Its no wonder Ford doesn't want to fix this for customers. All four of my 2016 doors have frozen over the years. Can't imagine doing this on all 4 doors. Thanks for the insight. This other video is far simpler replacing the actuator instead of the latch. I guess I'm confused as this what the actual fix is? th-cam.com/video/zjHX5sWcSYY/w-d-xo.html
The actual fix is replacing the latch with an updated part that has heavier springs that pull the latch closed when there is ice from condensation on the cable. The actuator is the electronic part that locks and unlocks the door when you hit the button on the fob or the door. Replacing that part will not fix the freeze issue. Only replacing the actual latch with the updated part will fix the issue. I have gotten to test the new latch assembly on my two front doors this winter with some temps in the teens and so far no issues. I know this is a lot of work for all 4 doors, but it's really the only way to permanently fix the issue. That being said, I still need to do this on my back doors, but I don't use them as much on a daily basis so I'm putting that off for now.