Four ways to beat moire on your 3D printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2018
- Moire can ruin an otherwise beautiful 3D print.This artefact is caused by irregular extruder steps or pulses, leaving a repeating pattern on the surface. It can be really tricky to tune out, with different printers experiencing it for different reasons. My Cocoon Create Touch / Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus / Monoprice Makerselect has it worse than most printers out there, exacerbated by the accuracy of the flexion extruder.
In this guide, I’ll show you four potential solutions for beating moire. With any luck one or more of them will fix your problem. Fortunately, only one needs to work!
There are a lot of theories on why moire exists, and this is beyond the scope of this video. For this reason I’ve kept it simple, so keep this in mind before commenting. The example of the rounding teps is grossly simplified too which I am aware of. This video is about solutions, not problems.
Thanks to Shrodinger Z for inventing (and thoroughly documenting) the TL-smoother.
Adjusting Di3 stepper vref: 3dprinterwiki.info/setting-th...
Shrodinger Z blog post (inventor of the TL-smoother): cabristor.blogspot.com/2015/02...
eBay listing for TL-smoother: www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pcs-5pcs...
Duplicator i3 plus TL-Smoother Extruder mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:280...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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Well done - it must take a while preparing the excellent animations.
I've tried A4988s and DVR8825s in my Hypercube and (bizarrely) fixed the moire from the A4988s. I have tuned the VRef as accurately as I can, and agree it's tricky to get right.
I found a neat way eventually:
th-cam.com/video/89BHS9hfSUk/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps in a generic sense....
That is a very useful video, thanks for sharing and for the link.
No worries! Sharing is what this is all about.
Keep up your great work.
Teaching Tech Do a review comparison between the Wanhao Duplicator 10 and the Kodoma Obsidian?
Me : restraining myself to modify my printer for problems I don't have !
I swear...
But its Smoother! You can just imagine those semi analog pulses
Moire is pronounced “more ray” in the TV industry and is seen when someone wears clothing with tight pinstripes. Looks very similar to the pattern on your print but slightly different. Just a bit of trivia. I’ve only had my printer for a month but Your channel has taught me heaps and I’m very grateful.
"more ray" is the americanification of the French word moire. Even if it's how people say it, it's not how the word is meant to be pronounced. Anyway, as long as people understand each other it's not important what's "correct" :)
@@lui472 actually, these are two words with similar spelling and similar meaning, and both are probably correct in this video, kind-of. The French word moiré means a watered or shimmering effect, and is pronounced "moray" or "mwa-ray". The English word moire means a fabric with a watered appearance and is pronounced "mwa". In case you didn't notice, one of these words has an accent over the "e" which means it should be pronounced (as "ay").
The French "moray" word is probably more correct and precise in the context of TV production, because of how it comes about. Some definitions of moiré specifically mention the effect being created *when two regular patterns are superimposed*. This is the cause of the pattern in TV and other video (I've seen it on a computer monitor, for example). So it makes sense to call this a "moray" pattern. A 3D printer can have regular patterns from two different sources (eg dented roller wheels on both X and Y axes) so the combination can also cause a moiré pattern.
But if the effect on a 3D print is not caused by superimposed patterns, and instead is just caused by wobbling due to a loose belt, then it's a general shimmering effect, and so it would be wrong to call it moiré.
So all moirés are moires but not all moires are moirés.
I think I found the cure for this problem on these printers. I shorted the 1k Rosc resistors to lock the drivers in mixed decay mode. The a4988 datasheet has more info on this. The results are fantastic! I've been trying to get good prints from this printer since I bought it 3 years ago. I've tried different firmware, acceleration, 0.9 steppers, adjusting stepper current, putting the Z steppers in series, and nothing ever made much difference. the only thing I haven't tried was TL Smoothers. With this mod, I get smooth walls on my prints, no missed steps (I was having problems with the Y axis running higher speeds with 0.9 steppers and the extra weight of Ultrabase), and the Z axis moves smoothly for bed leveling (It used to jump a bit and make a ticking sound as it moved up and down). The only down side to this modification is a very small increase in stepper noise, which is a very small price to pay for these results. This has gone from being my most frustrating printer to a really nice machine.
That was quality learning right there. Even included the addition of proper cut away animations showing dyslexics exactly what he is talking about. Bravo!
Thanks True Tech. I spent a bit of time on that, thanks for noticing.
Even though he's clearly had a bad time
To be honest, I've never had a problem with moire. However, I spent hours on the weekend trying to compile Marlin with some tweaks for my Biqu B1, and Michael's videos on the matter were a godsend.
Now that I'm at work, I've got TH-cam just cycling through his videos and I'm clicking like on them all.
I like your videos because you emphasize on failure and not make your videos as if some settings do magical solutions without a lot of trial and error and plenty of frustration.
Great tutorials and help!
As usual, a great job on the video, research and delivery.
Never disappointed by your videos!
Nice video! I'm the one who made that TL-Smoother mount on thingiverse and sorry about the amount of support material needed to print it. Pretty much how it is oriented in the STL is how I printed it. Couldn't do a whole lot to avoid supports since it would require me shifting the position of the TL-Smoother on the mount forward to make it flush with the back of the mount and space constraints don't really allow for that when mounted. On a side note, I also have mounts for the X / Y / Z TL-Smoothers so you don't have to worry about hot gluing to or anything like that if you're interested. I promise the X / Y / Z mounts are better than the E mount. No supports needed! I do recommend printing it in a higher temp material though because the heat generated by the smoothers can cause normal PLA to warp in a short period of time. I also recommend getting some non-conductive thermal paste or thermally conductive tape and small VRM heatsinks and installing them on the smoothers for better heat dissipation. I'll link to some that should work as well. Thanks!
XYZ TL-Smoother Mounts for Duplicator i3 plus: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2803556
Heatsinks: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JB8MQ76/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2H66MA3VRYS8E&psc=1
Hi TJ F, thanks for watching and posting. And thanks for your file. It is still working great!
If you want to handle heat, get a thermoelectric AC unit and blow cold dry air actively
It's like 5000% better than heatsink because of differentials
Credit Tech Ingredients overclocking
Very interesting! Thank you for this video and all the work to make it.
Thanks for this man.
Wow, thanks for sharing 😀👍
Great Michael - Will be giving the TL-Smoothers a go.
Bang for your buck! Preparing for the bltouch follow up btw. Now have it running without original z endstop and auto levelling before each print in 30 seconds.
WOW - Can't wait to see that - I am planning on doing the initial bltouch install this weekend. I love the progressive build/upgrade you are doing on this cheap printer. I saw that Aldi had some of these printers reduced to AU$399 in their North Rocks & Wentworthville stores last weekend!
I don't think using a whole number for E steps per mm matters at all. The idea that extruding a whole number mm of filament will result in a whole number of steps is irrelevant in practice, where extrusion amounts are virtually never a whole number. Open any random gcode file you have laying around, scroll to some random place in the middle of it, and look at the code. You will see a lot of lines starting with G1 (move commands), and almost all of them will have 3 parameters, an X, Y, and E value - saying where to move to (X and Y), and how much to extrude while doing it (E). Those extrusion amounts are in mm of filament, and at least in my S3D generated g-code go to 4 decimal places. The resulting calculations for extruder steps are always going to result in fractional steps, and Marlin at least takes care of it mostly properly (it does have issues with extrusion accuracy when the E distance gets large due to arduino floats not keeping a lot of precision - easily solved with liberal 'G92 E0' commands to reset it)
Hi Rob, thanks for the detailed comment. I have a note in the description addressing exactly this. The rounded steps are much more important on the z axis where we do have exact amounts of movement throughout the print.
Rob B - Agreed. The rounding will be at most 1/2 of an E step. And a single E step will correspond to to a tiny fraction of a mm on most setups. And both the melt zone and the filament flexibility always add some buffer between the filament input and output. Plus, in Marlin the steps/mm value is used to calculate the step value early on, and subsequently all movement is done in whole steps. So it is really irrelevant whether E steps-per-mm is set to a whole number or not. Also, there is no cumulative error due to float rounding errors in Marlin. Any float rounding (which is in the 10E-7 range) in one direction is made up in the other direction by the early conversion to steps in the planner.
I wasn't referring to any cumulative error from float rounding - rather the lack of decimal precision with large numbers when using floats. A float only has about 7 digits of precision, so if you've extruded 100m (about 1/3 of a 1KG roll, or 100000 mm) of filament without resetting the E-axis position, you've only really got accuracy in extrusion of 1/10th of a mm left - very small extrude commands at this point are effectively ignored, and if you've got a lot of them in a row (say, printing a small circle at a low layer height, maybe with a small nozzle) can result in severe under-extrusion. This is why 'G92 E0' is commonly seen in start g-code, and is now even in the default layer-change g-code for recent Prusa Research slic3r profiles.
Nice. I just ordered some tl smoothers to test on my ender 3. I have 2 so I'll print the same g code 4 times with and without them on both machines. Thanks for the informative video, I never knew about the creation of tl smoothers
Keen to hear how your testing goes. Thanks for watching.
And....did it work on your printer
It took me the past 2 weeks to figure out changing stepper motor current in marlin makes more of a difference to surface quality than temp. Then I found your video now...
I got great results by using Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core 9mm (2 on each axis) and 2 on the main power cord. Also I added 2 32x3mm round n52 magnets to the Ring cores.Things just Quiet down. Now I have smooth walls on my prints. Stabilizes the stepper motors.
Super underrated comment. You might have to explain your old fashioned analog wizardry to the digital generation.
Magnet = TL Smoother
Where are the ring cores?
Sometimes fine tuning to the Nth degree can be very tedious but hopefully worth it in the end......and you know what to do next time you have the issues. I am going through exactly the same at the moment.....you saved me from searching for TL smoothers in Oz. Thanks :)
Good luck and thanks for watching. I've ordered another two sets to sit around for any future printer that might need them.
@Teaching Tech
I'm confused by your diagram @1:08 it shows a liner going all the way into the nozzle. I don't know any setups where the liner goes into the nozzle. The liner is usually part of the heat-break and stops at the end of the heat-break threads, before the nozzle even starts. I understand the concept of the zone-of-inaccuracy, but that generally refers to the point after the liner in the heat-break stops, and before the nozzle starts.
Something else to look at it for micro artifacts like that clearly your diagonal lines were taken care of by the TL smoother but you still have little micro artifacts those can also come from Miss line smooth rods and bearings that are rumbling so make sure your smooth Rodger straight make sure your LMU you bearings are smooth and not rumbling it's pretty easy to feel by simply grabbing whatever taxis still has the noise and moving it with your hand manually if it's not smooth you'll feel it make adjustments and or Replacements as necessary to make it smoother sometimes you just need to put some Super Lube on it
Great suggestion. I can't feel anything but smooth movement but I am due to add some grease. Thanks for the reminder.
Very helpful! Thank you! Just subscribed :)
Thanks for watching and for your sub.
Thanks for vid
These smoother boards go on every stepper or just the extruder ??????????
Also does the CR10 V3 need them ?
Hi, TL-smoother is effective for creality ender 3 too ? Some people say that it is useless for the creality ender 3...I would like to have your opinion please
You have only one problem, is that the hot glue can hold static charges and that could do some noises after the power lines been filtered, so it's better not using this method and instead you can use the high temp. silicone or any non-transparent epoxy would be better, but keep going well done 👏💪💪
That's a good tip, I did not know that.
Well I feel silly, I always thought moire was that cool little swirly on the second iteration of the Star Trek Communicator.. ;0)
QUESTION.mike is there a straight swap out touch screen for ender 3 pro please..any info is welcome as always .
Did you now the V-ref standar for the silent board of ender 3?
You can print a mount for the x and y smoothers. On thingiverse it's called "Duplicator i3 Plus TL-Smoother X / Y / Z Mount."
I saw that but was too lazy. Hot glue in the underside contacts for the win.
So do you recommend installing the tl smoothers on the extruder stepper? Most of the videos I've seen were only for XY axis. Great video, btw. One of muah favorites.
I'm guessing they sell 5 packs so you can smooth everything
A video of a factory ender 3 then all motors smoothed would be cool, Sir TT
For the price I'll just try it, but for students
I really like your LED logo in the background :-) - Is it DIY?
I can't believe people are still just cycling colors, with an infinite range of options. I really expected animated LEDs to step their game up by 2020. To be fair, some christmas lights have
Do a review comparison between the Wanhao Duplicator 10 and the Kodoma Obsidian?
Hi Chris, send me one of each and I'll gladly cover this :)
Teaching Tech they are not out yet, but check out the two following links. I am a backer ov the Obsidian.
3dprinterchat.com/2018/06/interview-with-michael-husmann-of-kodoma-inc/#
www.kickstarter.com/projects/1403065126/obsidian-3d-printer-high-quality-sleek-and-afforda/comments
I'm due to back another Kickstarter, but perhaps not a 3d printer. I'm drowning in them at the moment.
Dang I had TL smoothers from bigtreetech I had never installed. I have a CR10 V3 with this exact issue. But the stepper motor on my CR10 has a connector with 5 positions and 4 wires. The smoothers I found in my spare parts have a 4 pin header and 4 pin extension wire . Is there a 5 position TL smoother out there?
If the connectors aren't using all of the wires, you might first consider changing the connectors. Sometimes manufacturers use parts they wouldn't ideally "need" to use or even planned to use because another part was readily available or cheaper in the short term.
Vref also is effected by heated bed and hotend switching on and off.
Great point, makes sense. Never considered it before.
Hi and well done with your tutorials... By the way, I have been in the printing industry for 30 years and "Moire" is normally pronounced... Moor - ray.
It's a French word and I asked a French lady. She pronounced it much closer to how I did in the video. Thanks for watching.
@@TeachingTech Cool video. It's written moiré, though. And pronounced "Muareh". It's an adjective, derived from the noun moire.
I know this is a couple of years old, but the word you're looking for is "Moiré", not "Moire". It very definitely is pronounced "Mwaw-ray". It's a printing term having to do with offset printing, not a silk pattern.
@@peterdanielketelsen6239 thanks for that. I was (and I'm sure many others are) not aware that there were two words at all. I assumed it was one of those English things where we borrowed a word and don't collectively care how it originated. This makes sense.
@@rww1026 it's actually a generic word referring to the interference between any two intersecting patterns of different frequencies including sound and electricity. As Peter said, the adjective came from the noun (spelled without the accent) which is a ridged pattern overlaid on silk, which has its original thread pattern. (Two patterns intersecting...check.) Many industries use the term.
The French lady was right about the pronunciation of that spelling, but not about which word should have been used. Sorry, French lady. Moiré is correct, without the silent 'e'.
Heck! Nice video! Are you Bobby Watts (3d helis) brother?
When will 3d printers come with filtering built in?
probably 7
Even with integer steps/mm, won't you still end up with rounding errors, because the filament isn't requested in integral numbers of mm?
I have issue with Z missing a layer. It looks like it misses a layer and the next just lays on top. I have printed this before without issue. Now, I have it solid, regardless of filament. This looks like a good mod.
I would strongly recommend upgrading your driver to trinamic instead of using diodes to filter your signal.
Is this redundant with TMC drivers?
Man this is great, I didn’t even know Moire was the problem until this. I’m still not sure I understand the cause of the problem though. Would replacing the extruded with an aftermarket upgrade resolve the issue?
It's all in the stepper drivers. All the extruder can do is exaggerate or mask the issue depending on the design.
So the stepper drivers on the CCT are shonky? In many ways this is a great 3d printer, and in a lot of others, it's a huge PITA. Now you've had it for a while, what steps would you take to upgrade it? What is going to give the most bang for buck? There are lot of people with these printers, so it might be worth doing a video just on that, combining all the upgrades you have added and what order you might do them in, what ones worked and what didn't.
You can replace the mainboard but the LCD might become useless. You can solder pins together to change the decay mode on the stepper drivers. Not for everyone but if you are comfortable soldering really small stuff it should fix the problem. I plan to explore this at some stage, starting with a spare board from an old printer as practise.
Don't know what drivers your printers use. But if it gets better by using a tl-smoother it's probably a DRV 8825. These drivers don't microstep well on low inductance steppers. Just swap in some a4988 or trinamic drivers and it will work a lot better.
Melzi has integrated a4998, and my researching suggested what you said about tl-smoothers working better with drv8825. I was pleasantly surprised that it helped so much.
Hmm that's interesting. a4988 drivers don't like high inductance steppers that much.
You can try setting them on fast decay mode. Helps with bad microstepping sometimes.
My printer had A4988 drivers and would get strange artifacts. Swapped them for TMC2208 ones and the prints are much better quality and the motors are virtually silent now too when before they were quite loud.
I have a home made 3D printer. I am facing issue with my z motors, as they are not moving up as expected and endup crashing into previous layer. I am currently moving z motors by hand clockwise to avoid this issue but it is not giving output as expected
kindly advise if there is a way to fix this issue by increasing z motor position after each layer by changing printing configuration in Slic3r or in Merlin firmware.
I am using Slic3r for gCodes and PronterFace for printing
When you say "by hand," do you mean you're moving it with a control board dial, or actually turning the lead screw with your fingers? If the former, your drivers might not be properly sending commands to the Z motor. If the latter, you might not have a working Z motor, or a bad cable or wire somewhere along the line. There could be several possible causes for your problem.
Were the z steps being transmitted at all, and were they just too small? I'd look at the software as the last culprit if you don't see movement, but if you do see movement and it's just too small, it's possible your output isn't sending proper steps to the drivers.
One option would be to increase the Z steps in an existing file: Look for G1 or G01 lines with Z#.### in them and change to a bigger number. You might even experiment with moving the decimal point to multiply each Z by ten, as long as it's moving up! Downward 10x moves will probably crash and possibly break something. The 10x Z moves will probably not print properly at all, but will show you if bigger steps are what you need to get your Z motor moving.
It is generally much harder to diagnose a custom system via text. I hope you find your solution.
I have just built my V2.4 and find I am getting repetitive salmon skin again not artefacts as they do not comply with contours I'm wondering is it the micro stepping as I have it set to 16 and other people have it set to 32. I'm going to give 32 a try later on
Are these artifacts the same as the Vertical Fine Artifacts (VFA) that everyone is talking about these days?
This is an open question to all of you because I am still getting a lot of this moir pattern in prints:
I am using an allmetal bowden E3DV6 converted to direct drive with bowden and a 3D printed lock at the top
my extruder steps are rounded
the current pot is set at a smidge under half because the motors get so hot they melt the 3D printed part holding it in place and cause jams even with a motor cooling fan
I don't have any diode smoothers but I will try some tmc 2130's I have leftover from my last project, it appears more as if the motors are snapping out of position rather than inconsistent pulses
Basically I have 3 broken cetus MkII's that have been converted to 8-bit RAMPS 1.6 but I found out after the conversion that all the motors have resistances 10 times higher than normal Nema 17's that make them extraordinarily choppy because of the extra inductance unless I fork out more cash to convert the machine to 24V, idk, seems pretty annoying cetus designed so many proprietary parts in their printer, I'm looking for ideas to fix this without putting out more money
I'd suggest seeking help among DIY printer builders, if you haven't already. Most people barely know how their printers work, much less how to modify them to the extent you've already done. (Not commenting on this channel, just the general public.) I'm sure there's several forums around the internet for this segment of the industry. Even CNC forums might be helpful as it's all really the same tech in different sizes and orientations. Cutting, printing, milling - it's all cramming Gcode into stepper motor drivers.
@@VoltisArt hey dude, thanks for replying! I found out a solution a few months ago and forgot I left this question here, I ended up upgrading to 24V, TMC2130's, and re-arm to smooth out the high inductance of the cetus motors. It was not a cheap solution and nightmare to get an lcd working with it all. Never fixing another dead cetus again.
TL Smoothers work with TMC2209 drivers?
My creality ender 2 hotend is pretty ridiculous. When changing from red to clear pla it can print for nearly 10-15minutes before it stops contaminating clear filament. I wasted several prints this way. On my adventurer 3 color change is complete after seconds.
I adapted a direct drive to an ender 3 pro and the way to solve moire was slow down the accelerations on E steps, from 5000 to 4000 was enough for me
Hi, actually this smoother can't "filter" anything. There is no "small" pulses by amplitude! All pulses from driver to the motor are 12V (if you power supply is 12V). The pulses varying only by width.
And in this context the only thing what the diodes can do - reduce amplitude of all pulses by about 1.5V. The same effect you can get just reduce power supply voltage to 10.5V only for motor driver.
If you use RAMPS board - it have separate power supply input for motor driver. You can put in series to this input two 1N5401 and you get the same effect just with two diodes. For better result I suggest to put some 1000uF 25V elco after this diodes to the ground.
Actually less amplitude makes stepper motor a little bit slower, that what you can get simple reducing acceleration. But in this way you make it by the hardware and not by software.
This "smoother" is just waste money...
Did you get it perfect in the end?
Hey mate, Do you know why i would have this issue only on the top part of the benchy? I just finished fine tuning my ender 3 and it is giving me fantastic prints, Have not noticed any moire on any prints until today! All of a sudden, After levelling the bed and printing a benchy i can see some diagonal lines appearing only on the top section (the cabin?) of the benchy.
Any ideas what causes this? here are some pics -
i.imgur.com/QoAXN4e.jpg - can see moire on the cabin
i.imgur.com/vJF5lJk.jpg - print look great
It shows there because it's a flat wall. Certain speeds and flow rate combo can show or hide it, did you tweak your slicer profile?
@@TeachingTech thanks for the reply!, only thing i changed recently is my layer height down to 0.12mm and the quality is great. haven't noticed this on any other prints. do you think smoothers will help? or print a benchy at 0.2 and see if they are still there?
Aren’t your whole-number step pulse increments going to be negated by grid-leveling algorithms?
You're right, I over simplified it. It's more important on the z for layer height rather than the extruder.
What a pro
1:07 I never used a nozzle like that, in which the PTFE tube goes inside of it. I use only 1,75mm so I don't know for 3mm, but the PTFE goes until the "butt" of the nozzle, the diameter of its rear hole is already around 1,8mm so there's no way the tube can go inside the nozzle like that
I haven't gotten my Ender 3 yet. But I assumed they butted up as you describe. Guess I'll find out. Just gotta try sticking the ptfe tube into a nozzle
I hear the Peter McKinnon theme song.... :P
How does one fix moire with TMC2209 drivers ?
the ptfe liner doesn't go into the brass hot end.
I wonder if some kind of smoother would work with mk3's extrusion inconsistencies too.
I was tempted to try and probably will at some stage.
Great!
Nope. Tried that.
If you want to improve the extrusion consistency on the Mk3S, move to the Bondtech geared extruder drive. Yes it's $110, but it works. Prusa should include it as standard.
well.... is just go for the "bad" nozzle
Oh my word..I changed the x-y steps from 80.3 to 80 and and e steps from 143.4 to 143 and the VFA has literally halved.
my 32bit controller seems to stop this! prints are completely smooth now!
Great comment, thanks for the clue.
Tell me moire.
Can we make holograms?
Tmc drivers on x&y and all artifacts are gone.
Melzi board on this printer, integrated drivers, not an option. Good suggestion otherwise.
I can vouch for this one too. Upgrade/Downgrade to a RAMPS board which opens you up to all the TMC drivers. Very cheap to do.
Got a spare RAMPS sitting around too.
where in oz are u mate
West of Sydney in the Blue Mountains.
nice im from over in perth
Well, Hi from The (Sutherland) Shire.
Used to live in Wentworth Falls.....
where abouts are you mate
Is this still relevant in 2020? I think that with TMC drivers this isn't haven been an issue for some time.
Only on printers that come with a4988s or drv8825s. More and more models with TMC drivers now but still some popular ones like the base Ender 3 that don't.
Adoraria entende inglês
Closed captions?
Shielded wire?
I am glad that I don't have that issue with my printer and I hope I don't get it after posting this.
why did you change the filament of cube lol
I really appreciate the video. I am just trying to be helpful by saying that I did not follow any of that.
For drivers such as 2208, it is useless to install TL-Smother. It is not realistic to accurately determine up to 0.1, for example 10.3 how to distinguish from 10.5?
In my thermal barrier the tube is pressed, I doubt that it is possible to lengthen without consequences.
You have skipped steps. To do this, it is enough to reduce speed and acceleration.
tlsmoother is not "smoothing the pulses" it's solving the problem with driver not properly microstepping motors at extreme positions (around zero crossing) so using diodes to clip voltage and solve the problem of mismatch between driver and motor so the steps are not missed. You can find more info on how the "smoother" works here: cabristor.blogspot.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html?m=1
the other "very good" way to solve the problem, that gives much better results then using tlsmoother, is to switch drivers and move to a higher quality drivers (e.g. TMC ones are pretty good and don't require this clipping diodes with nema17 motors)
p.s. don't forget to add a smoother on the extruder motor too :D
Thanks for your info. I already have that site linked in the description because I covered it in the video. Also, this printer has a Melzi with integrated drivers, so changing them is not an option without changing the whole board.
hm weird I see it now in description, looks like youtube weirded out the description was empty when I looked the video :D ... as for melzi, it's a piece of %$@%^*$ that pretty much should be immediately removed :)
Haha that's a strong opinion.
had at one point 6 wanhao's and 6 m150's in the workshop, out of 6 wanhao i3 all of them burned up, had issues with temperature readouts etc.. m150's came with better connectors so did not burn up in same timespan but were replaced as well due to similar errors they were showing ... the boards have improper power distribution layout and is a damn fire hazard... can't talk about the wanhao + and later revisions (like the one you have with touch screen) as have not seen/tested those myself but regular i3 and m150 came with melzi's that are utter crap ... I unsoldered drivers from them and recycled all 12 of those boards
Fair enough. The older style ones would certainly be much more convenient to work on. I had a similar experience when Solidoodle changed boards back in the day. They didn't include a bootloader and a bunch of users didn't have the skills/confidence to upgrade firmware.
Moiré.....Pronounced 'mwar-ray', due to the accent over the 'e'. Sorry. Born speech-nazi, ex-graphic artist. This word is pretty common in graphic design. I don't have this printing issue but I suffer from vertical lines at regular intervals which I can only guess is due to belt vibration over the non-toothed rollers? Anet A8. I'm going to sat that I was almost ready to to start looking at a better printer after having lost interest about a year ago. I started out last week by printing off tensioners for the x and y axises, buying a large, 24"x24" (60cmx60cm) concrete patio slab, then I took a piece of aluminum channel I had kicking around, cut a piece the width of the top of the printer and got a cargo strap to literally cinch it down to the patio slab and the table it's on. Of course as you add all the upgrades you have to keep tweaking the machine as things change. I can now print an xyz cube with perfect dimension, nice, straight corners between layers and nice text. If anyone is goung to stabilize this way, you will need to print three 'caps' to go over the aluminum rail with the center one higher so downforce is applied to the center and not just the sides.....this will force everything to the center which you DO NOT want, and I still need to create a taller center piece to essentially create a triangle which puts its force equally along the base, but for now it seems to be OK. Here's a pic: drive.google.com/open?id=1hfF8KU42E7Ev6zG_OVM3VdNZvD9W9MLtAlso you MUST put this behind the LCD as it puts too much downforce on the front of the printer if you put it in front, and you will find the print head crashing into things. Keep the strap directly above the vertical upright structures of the frame. Putting the entire thing on a patio slab also has the added benefit of making it about 60% quieter. I put a piece of cheap foam yoga mat under the stone and I still have about an 1/8 inch clearance under the stone after applying tension.
My printer is doing this but I just got it
Same, did you manage to get it fixed?
💕👌👍
Oh you! Stop blowing us kisses
Oh lalá señor francés
Gear you stepper..
wth, its 2k18.
just get trinamic drivers
This printer and many others have integrated stepper drivers. Can't fit the trinamics without changing the mainboard.
Its 2K21 and I have lots of Moire with my TMC2209 drivers
your logo had a bad led
it's not "mwah" - it's "mwa ray" - moire (mwah) is a type of silk. There's an acute accent over the e: "moiré"
Best one of these
Your representation of the e3dv6 nozzle is wrong !
here is correct one www.cnx-software.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/E3D-Bowden-Connector.png
And if you look on the pic you will see there is no cavity as in your description.
The diagram is generic. Although the e3d is mentioned, it was never claimed to be the source of the graphics. In fact this video is mainly about a flexion extruder.
@@TeachingTech Your representation of the flexion extruder nozzle is wrong!
here is the correct one flexionextruder.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/HowItWorks3.jpg
And if you look on the pic you will see there is no cavity as in your description.
@Snypi_PL sorry for copying your text, but it's still a wrong picture.
My stepper driver instanty cought fire as I replaced it while printing. I could blow it out though.
What??? E Steps round
Do you even know what that would mean
Lets say i want a cube which is 10.05mm
So it will round it to 10.1
Or a cube which is 10.5
So it rounds it to 11mm
Makes 0 sense
That is not what it means. You are rounding the dimensions of the final object (x and y axes), not the e steps which are used to calculate extrusion. Rounding e steps is probably negligible but not for the reasoning you write.
@@TeachingTech 3:06
Did i misunderstand this part or what
If i didnt the that means that the little dents the extruder makes into your filament would immensly hurt the printquality. In that way the "round" number theory of yours is total nonesense
If i tell my extruder to extrude 0.1mm of filament, then it will do that, even if it had to use microsteps. Else your prints would have huge blobs all over it.
So whats your point i dont understand
@@TeachingTech AND if you believe that when yoh turn of your printer it loses the spot of the microstep
Well thats the reason why we do skirts!!!
Mua
Thank you for not saying "Mor-ray"
A lot of people have told me I'm wrong. But not the French lady at work.
@@TeachingTech It's not a French word. I can't remember the details, but I remember that it comes from Arabic
@@TeachingTech Wikipedia: "Moire (pronounced "mwar") and moiré (pronounced "mwar-ay") are now used somewhat interchangeably in English, though moire is more often used for the cloth and moiré for the pattern." The first is a substantive in French, the second is an adjective, both are correct French.
Wikipedia
There's your problem
moire??? thought it was called *salmonskin*cv
Definitely known by that name too, although sometimes people use salmon skin in reference to the artefact that occurs on Delta printers.
could you please speak a title bit slolier?
Us Yankees just say it Mor-Ay
Congratulations, you're using a French word properly. That doesn't actually sound very Yankee at all...
It's actually two different words and the one that should have been used has the accent, which means it gets pronounced. Moire is a type of silk, which the word moiré is based on.
It's not pronounced Moire it's pronounced (and written) Moiré.
I have been watching you for a while, and I love your videos.
You have been so helpful.
And at the end you did a shot talking to the camera and I realized that you remind me of my Granddad!😊
He is in Heaven now, but did you know that God is accepting applications for Heaven? Because He is! All you have to do is call upon His son's name, Jesus Christ, ask Him to forgive you! Repent of your sins, and turn your life over to Him! Which I can tell you is much better than it was before.
Thanks Michael!
God bless you! 😊
is this salmon skin
Your LED logo has a dying diode in the upper corner on the left :(
you look angry in your thumbnails :D
Moire. Is pronounced. ( mor~rai).
0:29 This is not worth discussing.
Sorry, that was abrupt of me. I'm just concerned the content of the video will be lost because of the pronunciation.
no problem you are teaching so would be good to get the pronunciation correct ;)
router is really a 'rooter'
Except when you are talking about a power tool
It is written moiré, and therefore pronounced mwarai. But some Keyboard don't have é.
... if you’re gonna make a whole video about, why not figure out how to pronounce and write it? It’s Moiré, pronounced “mwah-ray”.
It's the accent. People who don't speak language that has accents (like the acute accent) don't understand their meaning and importance.
@@lapidations You are correct, but that's hardly an excuse. If you want to speak about something, at least you can look it up on wikipedia to get the pronunciation right as Jasper said.
@@kup1954 Not an excuse? It's just a mispronunciation of a word so get over yourself. What is the whole point in language? Did you understand what he was telling you with the way he was talking? If yes then it doesn't matter.
@@Krytern Then let's agree to disagree!
Mor Ray is correct more people pronounce that way. In over 10 languages nobody prounce muh aw man.
It's two different words. Moire (without the accent) is a particular pattern of pressed silk. Moiré is an interference of two patterns, named after the silk.