Dear Mr. I am a civil engineer from Turkey and have a 2009 Forester. I watched your video, and surely I can say that I did not watch any video likes as yours including even also any engineering video. Your speeching is so clear, simple without any unnecessary info to get the mind off, and I am so sure that I can change my brake pads after watching your video. I really thank you a lot.
You put the front pads on the wrong side. Look at the video when you take the pads off, the lever spring goes outside of the caliper on the BOTTOM. The spring rides on the metal carrier, there is a metal tab there for the spring to ride on.
I am doing this right now and noticed the return spring is to be installed on the bottom not on the top and it is to rest on the outside against the supporting surface of pad clip. I noticed you had deviated from what was in the repair manual.
Why would you add the old backers like that? No one I have ever worked with have done that. Read the manual. It will NEVER suggest doing that. You just added a couple millimeters to the Pads. Now you will have noise between the steel backer and the pistons. Not smart. Its best to open the master brake cap and put a rag under the brake reservoir to catch any extra fluid that may come out from pushing the pistons back. Why do guys make it harder than it has to be doing a brake job?
While we're picking apart his work, shouldnt we be opening bleeder valves to push back the calaper pistons ? Pushing all that dirty fluid back up to the reservior..... Not a good idea. Easy way to mess w/the abs part of the system. ? Anybody ?
@@keithcerce8445 Correct Keith. You MUST open those bleeder valves for the sake of your ABS system, you are exactly correct. I opened all four of mine while pushing in the pistons and barley had to add any fluid back to the master cylinder. Also, i did install one of my pad upside down because it was being a bear and I didn't realize it makes a big difference. I will take my wheel back off and reverse it, but do you know if the caliper will come off easy when I do that, and will it go back on easy? Or will I have to compress the pistons?
Hi - why did you not resurface the rotors. This is very dangerous to install new pads without resurfacing the rotors. The worn, irregular surface of the rotor will never make the correct surface to surface contact with the new pads. You should never guide people with practices that will compromise saftey.
Dear Mr.
I am a civil engineer from Turkey and have a 2009 Forester. I watched your video, and surely I can say that I did not watch any video likes as yours including even also any engineering video. Your speeching is so clear, simple without any unnecessary info to get the mind off, and I am so sure that I can change my brake pads after watching your video.
I really thank you a lot.
Clear instructions. You are a really good teacher. Thank you!
You put the front pads on the wrong side. Look at the video when you take the pads off, the lever spring goes outside of the caliper on the BOTTOM. The spring rides on the metal carrier, there is a metal tab there for the spring to ride on.
I am doing this right now and noticed the return spring is to be installed on the bottom not on the top and it is to rest on the outside against the supporting surface of pad clip. I noticed you had deviated from what was in the repair manual.
Thank you! Very helpful as I plan to change the pads on my 2017 Outback👍🏻
Always take a couple of pictures guys as you disassemble them to make sure all clips and springs are properly reapplied as you work.
Great work - and thanks for the detailed explanations.
Thanks AR. Great job. Good info.
You are a wonderful and perfect teacher as well! I love your videos, you are among the best!
excellent job! thanks for posting it!!
Excellent video and very nice and clear thanks for sharing and regards.
a good brake pad kit will come with new hardware
great video, very helpful
Great tutorial!
Hello, do I need to use an obd scanner to disengage the electronic ebrake? Is there a code I have to erase as well?
Good video brother ! Thanks !
Why would you add the old backers like that? No one I have ever worked with have done that. Read the manual. It will NEVER suggest doing that. You just added a couple millimeters to the Pads. Now you will have noise between the steel backer and the pistons. Not smart. Its best to open the master brake cap and put a rag under the brake reservoir to catch any extra fluid that may come out from pushing the pistons back. Why do guys make it harder than it has to be doing a brake job?
While we're picking apart his work, shouldnt we be opening bleeder valves to push back the calaper pistons ? Pushing all that dirty fluid back up to the reservior..... Not a good idea. Easy way to mess w/the abs part of the system. ?
Anybody ?
@@keithcerce8445 Correct Keith. You MUST open those bleeder valves for the sake of your ABS system, you are exactly correct. I opened all four of mine while pushing in the pistons and barley had to add any fluid back to the master cylinder. Also, i did install one of my pad upside down because it was being a bear and I didn't realize it makes a big difference. I will take my wheel back off and reverse it, but do you know if the caliper will come off easy when I do that, and will it go back on easy? Or will I have to compress the pistons?
3 different videos, 3 wrong ways to install the pads.
Hi - why did you not resurface the rotors. This is very dangerous to install new pads without resurfacing the rotors. The worn, irregular surface of
the rotor will never make the correct surface to surface contact with the new pads. You should never guide people with practices that will compromise saftey.