Glad to see knowledge being shared.........maybe you guys at 1A Auto can get together on process, each guy does it differently, some bleed the brakes, some don't...etc.......but all in all you guys are the best. I am beginning the brake and strut project today !! Thank you
Gr8 video... The only thing I think he should have shown was as at the end after pumping the brakes up...Was make sure you check the brake fluid in the master cylinder...A lot of times the fluid could be low or over flown... Otherwise I enjoyed the video very much... It was done very well and informative... 👍
You guys make great videos for non mechanical guys like me. Always appreciate the easy approach - random question, why were the old pads edges tapered and the new ones were squared off ?
I would pop the stainless clips and clean away rust underneath because the rust under the clips could cause the pads to seize in the clips in a short while. With regards to seized slider pin, I would heat casting (not to much) with gas’s torch, then tap in with hammer carefully the slider pin with old bolt installed to protect end thread of slider pin (Lubricate with freeing agent WD40 etc, at the same time). Once it free’s off, rotate with spanner using flats on slider pin and pull out. I have removed really seized solid pins this way. Patience😃 is required.
thanks for the great vid! I have the same car and planning to do my brakes tomorrow. Is it worth taking an extra 15 or 30 min to scrub / clean the entire caliper / braket if they're this rusty? And should I be removing the master cylinder or brake fluid cap? I hear you can avoid needing to really do a brake bleed (Which would be ideal), but that pushing the caliper pistons back in is likely to cause an issue somewhere (?)
It might be worth mentioning the bedding-in procedure that achieves optimal rotor surface conditioning between new pads and rotors. The system I've seen described is to warm up the rotor and pads with moderate braking/light pressure at low speeds (say 10 up to 30 or 40) and then get up to 60 mph and do hard brake from 60 down to 10-15mph without locking up the wheels or letting the antilock system kick in. You then resume speed to cool the rotors back down again, taking care not to stop (rotors could warp if left without air cooling after heavy braking), and repeat the 60 to 10 procedure 5 more times, with some time for cooling between runs. This apparently beds the brake material on the rotors correctly and will prevent judder/grabbing/fading, etc. Some pads suggest not doing **any** panic stops for the first 400 miles, if that's possible. I guess that's for ceramic pads.
Since I'm not finding any videos on replacing the brake pads and rotors for a 2006 Tribeca, I'm going to assume this process is the same for that car? I don't have 2-4 grand for a brake job right now, so I'll have to study up, buy the parts and DIMS..... Thanks for the tutorial!
Great video. I noticed on the rear brake change video from 1A AA Auto parts for the same vehicle when pushing the caliper back in, he opened the bleeder valve. You did not here. Is it only necessary on the rear? Thanks!
+Mark .Harrison Since the piston needs to be pushed back into the caliper in order to fit over the new pads, you should open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back in. This does help prevent debris from traveling back through the system and contaminating the ABS sensors. Thanks for the question.
Thanks! I'm hoping this translates to my '06 Tribeca! Although I think I have shimmed pads? And the question of greasing shimmed pads! But otherwise should be a similar procedure. Again, thanks for the vid!
Hi! Only issue I've had so far is the rotor is incredibly rusted over and around the lug. Any way to get it off? I see that the rotor has 2 small threaded holes near the center. What bolt size would this be and what would I need to do it?
sadly the slider pins stick - I found it best to replace the pins - [there is a complete replacement of pins and rubbers] [replace those pins] remove the rubber boots (always) clean them [brake cleaner works best] then thoroughly clean out the bracket holes [visually inspect them for corrosion [if pitted deeply -replace the bracket] the pin should move freely after cleaning - if so? - lube the pin and bracket holes so movement is super smooth. lube and replace the rubbers - then push the pins in until the rubbers seat into place - wipe excessive lube away - *this is necessary to have the best clean lubed and freely/smoothly moving pins as the caliper rides on these. :) for lube? I use 3m silicone paste - others might prefer the sylglide brand [very important to use the correct lube that will not affect the rubbers, Nor be affected by the heat of brakes] (different brake lube to be used on brake pad contact points- very different indeed )
Could be helpful to mention whether the caliper slide pin with the rubber boot goes on bottom or on top; I ended up googling it because I forgot which pin was where when I took them out. Seems it goes on the bottom and helps minimize noise. Also, with those specific pins that have rubber, apparently you need to be careful about which brake part lubricant to use; permatex and ceramic lubricants reportedly swell the rubber piece and contribute to the pin locking up, so be sure whatever you use won't degrade or affect the rubber. Probably not ideal but I'm going to give anti-sieze a shot, despite its mixed reviews for caliper slide pin use and the fact that its meant for metal; I am tired of running back and forth to the auto parts stores and napa seemed to only carry permatex and ceramic products.
After I change my rotor on my f150 04, I feel the the shaking on steering wheel when driving, and sometimes while driving it's pulling me on the right or left sometimes, please help me I don't know what's wrong with it.
+K'malay La Make sure you torqued the lug nuts down correctly in a cross pattern and to the correct specification. You'll need to inspect the front end for worn tie rods, ball joints or wheel bearings. Finally, check for sticking brake calipers.
Hey guys! Love your videos, products, staff, service ect., however, would you please include face masks and eye protection on all your videos? Especially brake jobs, please and thank you!
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I love these videos. Slow and steady, no unnecessary talking, just focused on the job.
Glad to see knowledge being shared.........maybe you guys at 1A Auto can get together on process, each guy does it differently, some bleed the brakes, some don't...etc.......but all in all you guys are the best. I am beginning the brake and strut project today !!
Thank you
Gr8 video...
The only thing I think he should have shown was as at the end after pumping the brakes up...Was make sure you check the brake fluid in the master cylinder...A lot of times the fluid could be low or over flown...
Otherwise I enjoyed the video very much...
It was done very well and informative... 👍
You might want to pull some brake fluid from the reservoir before pressing the pistons back into the caliper. Could get messy otherwise
You guys make great videos for non mechanical guys like me. Always appreciate the easy approach - random question, why were the old pads edges tapered and the new ones were squared off ?
I would pop the stainless clips and clean away rust underneath because the rust under the clips could cause the pads to seize in the clips in a short while.
With regards to seized slider pin, I would heat casting (not to much) with gas’s torch, then tap in with hammer carefully the slider pin with old bolt installed to protect end thread of slider pin (Lubricate with freeing agent WD40 etc, at the same time). Once it free’s off, rotate with spanner using flats on slider pin and pull out. I have removed really seized solid pins this way. Patience😃 is required.
thanks for the great vid! I have the same car and planning to do my brakes tomorrow. Is it worth taking an extra 15 or 30 min to scrub / clean the entire caliper / braket if they're this rusty?
And should I be removing the master cylinder or brake fluid cap? I hear you can avoid needing to really do a brake bleed (Which would be ideal), but that pushing the caliper pistons back in is likely to cause an issue somewhere (?)
Clever trick to clean up the rotor on the back side. Thanks.
It might be worth mentioning the bedding-in procedure that achieves optimal rotor surface conditioning between new pads and rotors. The system I've seen described is to warm up the rotor and pads with moderate braking/light pressure at low speeds (say 10 up to 30 or 40) and then get up to 60 mph and do hard brake from 60 down to 10-15mph without locking up the wheels or letting the antilock system kick in. You then resume speed to cool the rotors back down again, taking care not to stop (rotors could warp if left without air cooling after heavy braking), and repeat the 60 to 10 procedure 5 more times, with some time for cooling between runs. This apparently beds the brake material on the rotors correctly and will prevent judder/grabbing/fading, etc.
Some pads suggest not doing **any** panic stops for the first 400 miles, if that's possible. I guess that's for ceramic pads.
Since I'm not finding any videos on replacing the brake pads and rotors for a 2006 Tribeca, I'm going to assume this process is the same for that car? I don't have 2-4 grand for a brake job right now, so I'll have to study up, buy the parts and DIMS..... Thanks for the tutorial!
Great video. I noticed on the rear brake change video from 1A AA Auto parts for the same vehicle when pushing the caliper back in, he opened the bleeder valve. You did not here. Is it only necessary on the rear? Thanks!
+Mark .Harrison Since the piston needs to be pushed back into the caliper in order to fit over the new pads, you should open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back in. This does help prevent debris from traveling back through the system and contaminating the ABS sensors. Thanks for the question.
Thanks! I'm hoping this translates to my '06 Tribeca! Although I think I have shimmed pads? And the question of greasing shimmed pads! But otherwise should be a similar procedure. Again, thanks for the vid!
Its a good idea to put the pads in the bracket before install.its more easier
Hi! Only issue I've had so far is the rotor is incredibly rusted over and around the lug. Any way to get it off? I see that the rotor has 2 small threaded holes near the center. What bolt size would this be and what would I need to do it?
I use a heal bar and a block of wood with a c clamp to depress the caliper.
Did you take the cap off the brake fluid filler cap off?
Most brake kits will come with new pins and caliper hardware, I suggest using new.
sadly the slider pins stick - I found it best to replace the pins - [there is a complete replacement of pins and rubbers] [replace those pins]
remove the rubber boots (always) clean them [brake cleaner works best]
then thoroughly clean out the bracket holes [visually inspect them for corrosion [if pitted deeply -replace the bracket]
the pin should move freely after cleaning - if so? - lube the pin and bracket holes so movement is super smooth.
lube and replace the rubbers - then push the pins in until the rubbers seat into place - wipe excessive lube away -
*this is necessary to have the best clean lubed and freely/smoothly moving pins as the caliper rides on these. :)
for lube? I use 3m silicone paste - others might prefer the sylglide brand
[very important to use the correct lube that will not affect the rubbers, Nor be affected by the heat of brakes]
(different brake lube to be used on brake pad contact points- very different indeed )
+Lj Pretendtohidebehind We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
Nice work. Looks like those Calipers and Rotors have been bathed in salt for a while... :)
Could be helpful to mention whether the caliper slide pin with the rubber boot goes on bottom or on top; I ended up googling it because I forgot which pin was where when I took them out. Seems it goes on the bottom and helps minimize noise. Also, with those specific pins that have rubber, apparently you need to be careful about which brake part lubricant to use; permatex and ceramic lubricants reportedly swell the rubber piece and contribute to the pin locking up, so be sure whatever you use won't degrade or affect the rubber. Probably not ideal but I'm going to give anti-sieze a shot, despite its mixed reviews for caliper slide pin use and the fact that its meant for metal; I am tired of running back and forth to the auto parts stores and napa seemed to only carry permatex and ceramic products.
+Taylor Corris Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks
don;t spray the new pads with the cleaner it can break down the material. if you need to clean them use dishsoap water.
After I change my rotor on my f150 04, I feel the the shaking on steering wheel when driving, and sometimes while driving it's pulling me on the right or left sometimes, please help me I don't know what's wrong with it.
+K'malay La Make sure you torqued the lug nuts down correctly in a cross pattern and to the correct specification. You'll need to inspect the front end for worn tie rods, ball joints or wheel bearings. Finally, check for sticking brake calipers.
It seems that a lot of people commenting are giving you advice. Why are they even watching if they already know how to do it?
Some people watch to make sure the instruction is correct.
I sure wouldn't let the car all the way down with hand tight lug nuts.
Aren’t you supposed to spray the new rotor, not the pad?!
+Jake Shingleton The rotor was sprayed - front and back. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Lol replace those caliper brackets
Hey guys! Love your videos, products, staff, service ect., however, would you please include face masks and eye protection on all your videos? Especially brake jobs, please and thank you!
+darren boedeker Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Did you drag this car out of a lake? Rustyyy.
I'm going to guess we're in the Midwest here, maybe even Michigan.