Just wanted to share the reasoning behind the fx118 stock 52-48 weight bias and the comp ready 60-40 weight bias achieved through moving electronics. www.thingivers...
Been a fan of yours for along time.. I still have my redcat sumo..crawler..with the Lanzu Controller..I want to use the electronics in one of my builds ..but my nephew was playing with the controller and changed all the settings. So now it doesn’t want to go in reverse, full throttle. It’s been three years that I had no batteries in the controller, and when I bind to the receiver It’s still remembers the memory of the screwed up settings I built SX 24 with two deadbolt rear ends on the green sumobody.. it crawles amazing one day I’ll figure out those electronics and make it a four-wheel steer. Thanks for the inspiration .I modify crawlers and fabricating parts without a printer.. lol😂 I have two of those sumo crawlers and one day I’ll get them back on the road !! Thanks again for providing the community with that tray.. I love my furitek wagon.. Now I can take the stick weights off my servo.😂 keep up the good work …now I know you designed my wagon. It’s just that much more special to me now. Bless you and your family .. Keep up the good work!!
I mounted the electronics on the skids. Then I moved the plastic mount for the electronics to the front of the truck (I trimmed the sides of it to fit it between the body mounts on the front). A flat Scx24 battery fits perfectly right there. Use the rear most hole on the electronics mount as the hole for your front shocks and the other hole will line up with the triangle of the chassis, just run a screw all the way bottomed out into there and it will rest on the triangle and is plenty stiff despite it not actually threading through a hole in the chassis.
Just come across this post , , you gave me inspiration for those who don't have access to a 3d printer , I've removed the rear electronics tray flipped it over and managed to get it fit the front and the gap in the tray sits either side of the motor the screws line up with the chassis rails but on an angle , ti over come the angle I used a bit of heat and put a bend into the tray , it fits my battery perfectly under the body with the body mounts on the lowest placement and still leaves a gap between the servo and plate ,, On the issue of side skids I used some 1mm abs styrene and put a 90° bend in that to hold my esc and rx ,
Really great job designing this truck! I'm loving mine, and enjoying adding my own touch of character to it. I like the 1st example of those sliders! 🤙
I'm going to be completely honest with you. The design of the truck is killer. It is well thought out and dead sexy. The components you've chosen form a very formidable package. I love that you thought about the end user and the basic concept of rcing as FUN. I also appreciate that you wanted to make the vehicle enjoyable directly from the box without having to purchase another $500 in parts to enjoy it. However, with much excitement and anticipation, I charged the battery, checked the basic setup, and took her for a flatland cruise around my living room. Ran great! The throttle modulation is simply unreal. So I tossed a Harley Davidson parts catalog (approximately 2" thick) onto the floor for her first small obstacle. I chose a quartering line and slowly crept up the side of the book. That's when I lost the throttle. The motor was turning, but I had no motion. I picked the truck up and flipped it over to find the droop of the front axle was greater than the travel of the slip yoke on the driveshaft. It separated the front driveshaft which caused the u joint to bind the driveline and grenaded the rear shaft. So, that was my first impression of this highly anticipated model. I am aware that to meet the target price point and keep this little monster affordable, it is necessary to compromise somewhere in the parts selection. Come on though, can we sacrifice the pointless mirrors or flashy paint rather than the driveline which is the most critical and abused module? If I'm honest, the prop shafts are junk and will likely steer my decision to buy all of the kids and grandkids and nieces and nephews, your competitors offering to avoid the heartbreak on Christmas morning.
I'd also like to clear the air. The design is top-rate, and the truck is head and shoulders superior to anything I know of in its class. It's a tremendous value. I simply find it to be a piss poor decision to provide mirrors, a light bar, and flashy paint instead of a usable driveline.
It is possible, I just figured it would be better to provide free of cost but Ill let them know theres an interest and im sure they could stock them on the website as well 👍.
@@OkieDokieBoi There's a lot we wanted to include but the $200 mark made it imposible. The main goal we had with this vehicle was to be able to provide at this price in order to attract more people into the hobby. Furitek already tried the "all included" vehicle with Cayman and the increased price reflects that. That's why now I offer the files for these for free as it was never about making more from the customers but providing a product for a lower price.
Dope dude. Love all the dope shit you designed. Building another Olympus now. Fury wagons a beast too just added wheels and tires and got my 60/40 and it’s keeping up with my more expensive rigs
Please could you provide me with one battery tray and electronic tray ..to help improve my ratio Also please could you advise what oil goes into my shocks unfortunately they arrived with no oil many thanks andy
As of right now they are asking customers to see which version they want most. It is in an attempt to keep the number of upgrades under control as it would be a mess if they offered every design I send them 😅. Which one do you feel would be more beneficial?
Esc yes, motor for short runs. The motor is rated for 2s but if used for short periods of time and you keep an eye on temperature it will survive. My suggestion is to stick to 2s and if you really must use 3s save a bit and get the micro komodo which is rated for 3s out of the box. Also, make sure to update the esc firmware to the latest version so you don't damage any of your electronics 👍.
Been a fan of yours for along time.. I still have my redcat sumo..crawler..with the Lanzu
Controller..I want to use the electronics in one of my builds ..but my nephew was playing with the controller and changed all the settings. So now it doesn’t want to go in reverse, full throttle. It’s been three years that I had no batteries in the controller, and when I bind to the receiver It’s still remembers the memory of the screwed up settings I built SX 24 with two deadbolt rear ends on the green sumobody.. it crawles amazing one day I’ll figure out those electronics and make it a four-wheel steer. Thanks for the inspiration .I modify crawlers and fabricating parts without a printer.. lol😂
I have two of those sumo crawlers and one day I’ll get them back on the road !!
Thanks again for providing the community with that tray.. I love my furitek wagon.. Now I can take the stick weights off my servo.😂 keep up the good work …now I know you designed my wagon. It’s just that much more special to me now.
Bless you and your family ..
Keep up the good work!!
Thank you so much for the kind words! Ill do my best to keep bringing fun designs so that all of us can keep the hobby going strong! 👍☺️
I mounted the electronics on the skids. Then I moved the plastic mount for the electronics to the front of the truck (I trimmed the sides of it to fit it between the body mounts on the front). A flat Scx24 battery fits perfectly right there. Use the rear most hole on the electronics mount as the hole for your front shocks and the other hole will line up with the triangle of the chassis, just run a screw all the way bottomed out into there and it will rest on the triangle and is plenty stiff despite it not actually threading through a hole in the chassis.
I love how transparent you are!
Just come across this post , , you gave me inspiration for those who don't have access to a 3d printer , I've removed the rear electronics tray flipped it over and managed to get it fit the front and the gap in the tray sits either side of the motor the screws line up with the chassis rails but on an angle , ti over come the angle I used a bit of heat and put a bend into the tray , it fits my battery perfectly under the body with the body mounts on the lowest placement and still leaves a gap between the servo and plate ,,
On the issue of side skids I used some 1mm abs styrene and put a 90° bend in that to hold my esc and rx ,
I appreciate the thought you put into this and the options built in for improvement.
Really great job designing this truck! I'm loving mine, and enjoying adding my own touch of character to it. I like the 1st example of those sliders! 🤙
Thank you! 👍
You did a great job designing this platform. Absolutely agree with everything you said in the video.
Long time follower of yours. Great work on THIS! Keep it up 👍 because the price on this Will sell for every one! Thanks To you and Furitek.
I'm going to be completely honest with you. The design of the truck is killer. It is well thought out and dead sexy. The components you've chosen form a very formidable package.
I love that you thought about the end user and the basic concept of rcing as FUN. I also appreciate that you wanted to make the vehicle enjoyable directly from the box without having to purchase another $500 in parts to enjoy it. However, with much excitement and anticipation, I charged the battery, checked the basic setup, and took her for a flatland cruise around my living room. Ran great! The throttle modulation is simply unreal. So I tossed a Harley Davidson parts catalog (approximately 2" thick) onto the floor for her first small obstacle. I chose a quartering line and slowly crept up the side of the book. That's when I lost the throttle. The motor was turning, but I had no motion. I picked the truck up and flipped it over to find the droop of the front axle was greater than the travel of the slip yoke on the driveshaft. It separated the front driveshaft which caused the u joint to bind the driveline and grenaded the rear shaft. So, that was my first impression of this highly anticipated model.
I am aware that to meet the target price point and keep this little monster affordable, it is necessary to compromise somewhere in the parts selection. Come on though, can we sacrifice the pointless mirrors or flashy paint rather than the driveline which is the most critical and abused module? If I'm honest, the prop shafts are junk and will likely steer my decision to buy all of the kids and grandkids and nieces and nephews, your competitors offering to avoid the heartbreak on Christmas morning.
I'd also like to clear the air. The design is top-rate, and the truck is head and shoulders superior to anything I know of in its class. It's a tremendous value. I simply find it to be a piss poor decision to provide mirrors, a light bar, and flashy paint instead of a usable driveline.
Would be nice if furitek could just produce those trays. Some of us don’t print or want to have to find someone who can print for us.
It is possible, I just figured it would be better to provide free of cost but Ill let them know theres an interest and im sure they could stock them on the website as well 👍.
Totally agreed!
I was gonna comment the same! Those 60/40 trays should've come out the gate and in the box!
@@OkieDokieBoi There's a lot we wanted to include but the $200 mark made it imposible. The main goal we had with this vehicle was to be able to provide at this price in order to attract more people into the hobby. Furitek already tried the "all included" vehicle with Cayman and the increased price reflects that. That's why now I offer the files for these for free as it was never about making more from the customers but providing a product for a lower price.
Love it bro just opened my green one.
It's cheap and brushless unbelievable rtr 🤙🤙🤙
Dope dude. Love all the dope shit you designed. Building another Olympus now. Fury wagons a beast too just added wheels and tires and got my 60/40 and it’s keeping up with my more expensive rigs
brilliant video dude, im in england and ive just ordered one of these. this video was so helpful
Thank you for the details
Thanks!!! 😀
Talk to the team about overdrive gears please
In the works 👍😁.
Please could you provide me with one battery tray and electronic tray ..to help improve my ratio
Also please could you advise what oil goes into my shocks unfortunately they arrived with no oil many thanks andy
Do you have a link for us to where we can buy the sliders from furitek
As of right now they are asking customers to see which version they want most. It is in an attempt to keep the number of upgrades under control as it would be a mess if they offered every design I send them 😅. Which one do you feel would be more beneficial?
I think the "boat side" one would better
Can this esc/motor handle 3s?
Esc yes, motor for short runs. The motor is rated for 2s but if used for short periods of time and you keep an eye on temperature it will survive. My suggestion is to stick to 2s and if you really must use 3s save a bit and get the micro komodo which is rated for 3s out of the box. Also, make sure to update the esc firmware to the latest version so you don't damage any of your electronics 👍.
@@Gamyrc okay, thank you for your time!! I appreciate it.