That brass dollop at 1:54 how did you get that to stay on ? When I try to fix my oven and have this in my wire and twist it doesn’t stay and is loose. How do I get it secure ?
Not exactly following you but it’s basically a 1 time use brass seal. Once I seat the first screw insert and slide the dollop between the two the second one smashes into the first and uses that as sealant. Sorry if im misunderstanding your Q
@@restaurantrepairs okay so I have to use two of those brass dollops ? When I put that brass dollop on the wire and then insert that into where it’s supposed to go it won’t tighten down so the wire for my gas line to light my oven is still loose. No one else around me can figure this out… sorry if it’s hard to understand this is only video I seen show it. If still don’t understand any possible way to email you so I can maybe provide pictures ? Sorry I have been trying to fix my oven in food truck for over half a year and it’s killing me right now not using it. Small town so no food commercial equipment repair will help me only restaurants.. Thankyou got the reply
Iam having an issue with a vulcan fryer, the pilot lites good but when i open the thermostat it doesnt open the burners and pilot light shuts off any tips what could it be?
Is it a millivolt system? With a thermopile holding the pilot. If so there’s likely a short in the wiring to the therm or the therm itself is shorted. Shorts on MB systems just shut it down.
@Joeyr01 there’s special meters that can measure millivolts but they’re cheap enough order some 750 mv thermopiles for 15 bucks and when I’m doubt swap it out.
@@restaurantrepairs words don't matter my friend you've got the know how, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Much love from 🇯🇲 jamaica
I just bought a pitco frialator used ( 10 months old) that ran in natural gas. I brought the gas to LP conversion kit and installed it. The pilot comes on but won’t stay on. What can be the problem? When I picked it up I noticed a little rust on the screw area that the wires for the thermostat and pilot and (thermopile if that is what it is called)
Either bad thermopile, bad gas valve, or incorrect wiring. If the pilot lights when you hold the valve but not on its own either the sensor isn’t producing enough millivolts to open the gas valve or the valve isn’t willing to open. The 2 wires from the pilot (thermopile) should both be connected to PP terminals.
With the digital controllers and timers on the fronts? I mean it’s possible to remove ALL that crap and make em mechanical thermostat millivolt systems, it’s just funny to do that to such a digital unit. Once the touch pad or control board dies instead of spending the 1,100 to replace it do a conversion. New pilot assembly, therm, high limit and gas valve. Booyah no more expensive repairs.
Nice video...question....if the thermostat lights up right away when you turn fryer on to 350 but then won’t keep going back on to reheat fryer back to 350 what could be the problem
Things are seldom reduced to the problem is “X”. But if the burners fire until the unit hits 350 then satisfies and never retires it could be the wiring to the co trip circuit is incorrect and instead of dropppng out the burners it drops out the pilot (which means it won’t reheat). Or it could just be an out of whack thermostat or probe depending on which kind of unit you have. More details of exactly what it’s doing and I can possible help more.
That brass dollop at 1:54 how did you get that to stay on ? When I try to fix my oven and have this in my wire and twist it doesn’t stay and is loose. How do I get it secure ?
Not exactly following you but it’s basically a 1 time use brass seal. Once I seat the first screw insert and slide the dollop between the two the second one smashes into the first and uses that as sealant. Sorry if im misunderstanding your Q
@@restaurantrepairs okay so I have to use two of those brass dollops ? When I put that brass dollop on the wire and then insert that into where it’s supposed to go it won’t tighten down so the wire for my gas line to light my oven is still loose. No one else around me can figure this out… sorry if it’s hard to understand this is only video I seen show it. If still don’t understand any possible way to email you so I can maybe provide pictures ? Sorry I have been trying to fix my oven in food truck for over half a year and it’s killing me right now not using it. Small town so no food commercial equipment repair will help me only restaurants.. Thankyou got the reply
Converted it back to an old school SG series millivolt..nice!
Hope you got that mess of wires and cap tubes away from the drain valve swing path.
Great job
What models can you convert to millivolt system?
Any that doesn’t have digital control board. Generally SG-14 that were electronic ignitions
Thanks for the help!
Great video , do you think it’s possible to add a heat limit and thermostat to a propane fryer with out one ?
How you have a fryer without safety limits? Yes it is
I have a pitco 35c. The pilot stays lit but the burner won't kick on. Any ideas?
It thinks it’s up to temp? Either bad temp probe or mechanical thermostat depending on what you have
Iam having an issue with a vulcan fryer, the pilot lites good but when i open the thermostat it doesnt open the burners and pilot light shuts off any tips what could it be?
Is it a millivolt system? With a thermopile holding the pilot. If so there’s likely a short in the wiring to the therm or the therm itself is shorted. Shorts on MB systems just shut it down.
@@restaurantrepairsthank you it ended up being the thermophile i didnt test it but i changed it and it was working properly any tips how to test them?
@Joeyr01 there’s special meters that can measure millivolts but they’re cheap enough order some 750 mv thermopiles for 15 bucks and when I’m doubt swap it out.
Ferrule
Such a fun word.. Ferrule 😂
@@restaurantrepairs words don't matter my friend you've got the know how, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Much love from 🇯🇲 jamaica
I just bought a pitco frialator used ( 10 months old) that ran in natural gas. I brought the gas to LP conversion kit and installed it. The pilot comes on but won’t stay on. What can be the problem? When I picked it up I noticed a little rust on the screw area that the wires for the thermostat and pilot and (thermopile if that is what it is called)
Do you whatsapp?
Either bad thermopile, bad gas valve, or incorrect wiring. If the pilot lights when you hold the valve but not on its own either the sensor isn’t producing enough millivolts to open the gas valve or the valve isn’t willing to open. The 2 wires from the pilot (thermopile) should both be connected to PP terminals.
I have sfsg14r fryers from 2020 in 2 kitchens and 35c+ in other 2 kitchens which are millivolt and would like them all to be millivolt.
With the digital controllers and timers on the fronts? I mean it’s possible to remove ALL that crap and make em mechanical thermostat millivolt systems, it’s just funny to do that to such a digital unit. Once the touch pad or control board dies instead of spending the 1,100 to replace it do a conversion. New pilot assembly, therm, high limit and gas valve. Booyah no more expensive repairs.
Thank for the help. Do not know why kitchen managers want this digital stuff mechanical is so much more reliable.
❤❤❤
Awww thanks 😊
Nice video...question....if the thermostat lights up right away when you turn fryer on to 350 but then won’t keep going back on to reheat fryer back to 350 what could be the problem
Things are seldom reduced to the problem is “X”. But if the burners fire until the unit hits 350 then satisfies and never retires it could be the wiring to the co trip circuit is incorrect and instead of dropppng out the burners it drops out the pilot (which means it won’t reheat). Or it could just be an out of whack thermostat or probe depending on which kind of unit you have. More details of exactly what it’s doing and I can possible help more.
needs a degrease power wash...
❤ صباح الخير
Goo city