The hi limit and the thermopile used in this video are not OEM parts. The 750mv's mentioned is a MAX for the gas valve rating and not what we want or should ever see as an output for the thermopile. With the pilot only, the reading should be between 500-550 mv's. Gas pressures were never mentioned in this video. It it 100% that you should check gas pressures to any gas unit that is having combustion related issues. A pilot not lighting or staying lit is a combustion issue and must have gas pressures taken. The pilot operates off incoming pressure so both static and dynamic pressures for incoming gas should have been checked before any part was replaced if the pilot was able to be lit at all.
All great points. I’ve discussed in a previous video that I often glaze over filming gas pressure readings and adjustment. (You’ll find I’ve shown it zero times in 500 videos) because you shouldn’t be TH-caming and adjusting gas pressure. Call a licensed professional. I never claimed my oarts were OEM. The restaurants I’m serving here I am also the FM and we use non OEM parts quite often. It’s kinda my thing. I gut entire electrical fryers and convert them to MV systems. I do strange things.. all things said I’ll end where I started, you speak wisdom and experience and I’m appreciative to have your voice chime in to teach me and anyone else who I’m leaving missing pieces of info. 👍🏼
@@opiekha gas valve. Either the thermopile isn’t creating enough millivoltage to hold the pilot open or the gas valve pilot isn’t able to open electronically.
@ Should I try to replace the pilot? I was going to try replacing the high limit thermostat & thermostat regulator. Does that sound like a good idea? No one will service my fryer because it is on a food truck! Thank you in advance!!
I have blue Seal GT46. It is twin tank deep gas fryer with two separate vales. One side was working fine but the other one has issue with its pilot. The pilot was not staying on. As soon as I leave the pilot holding button, pilot goes off. I have swapped the thermocouple and thermopile of the working side to other but still the pilot did not stayed on. Then I swapped the both thermopile and thermocouple of faulty side to other side. These two items worked there fine. Then I thought that it the might be the issue is with high limit. I swapped the cables of high limits with each other. But bother fryer's pilots did not stay on, they were tripping as soon as I leave holding button. Therefore, I put the high limit cables to its original fryers but now both fryers' are not keeping the pilot stayed on? I have checked the connectivity of both high limit and they both showing connectivity. Please can you advise what's wrong with fryer specially why the first one has stopped working even though it was working fine before
To test a bad high limit don’t swap them just connect the 2 wires on it together. If you have a good thermopile and a good high limit it’s a bad gas valve
I work at TGIFriday’s and this was extremely helpful since I’m the one always fixing the random things that go out.
The hi limit and the thermopile used in this video are not OEM parts. The 750mv's mentioned is a MAX for the gas valve rating and not what we want or should ever see as an output for the thermopile. With the pilot only, the reading should be between 500-550 mv's. Gas pressures were never mentioned in this video. It it 100% that you should check gas pressures to any gas unit that is having combustion related issues. A pilot not lighting or staying lit is a combustion issue and must have gas pressures taken. The pilot operates off incoming pressure so both static and dynamic pressures for incoming gas should have been checked before any part was replaced if the pilot was able to be lit at all.
All great points. I’ve discussed in a previous video that I often glaze over filming gas pressure readings and adjustment. (You’ll find I’ve shown it zero times in 500 videos) because you shouldn’t be TH-caming and adjusting gas pressure. Call a licensed professional. I never claimed my oarts were OEM. The restaurants I’m serving here I am also the FM and we use non OEM parts quite often. It’s kinda my thing. I gut entire electrical fryers and convert them to MV systems. I do strange things.. all things said I’ll end where I started, you speak wisdom and experience and I’m appreciative to have your voice chime in to teach me and anyone else who I’m leaving missing pieces of info. 👍🏼
Nice! Very informative. Appreciate the videos. Never know when I’ll come across these issues with my own setups.
Good job
I usually see those run in upwards of 450 MV with just pilot and no call for main burner.
Great video! Thanks!
Good repair video again !
Would this be the reason why my vulcan fryer pilot goes out when i turn the thermostat on?
Awesome job 👍👍
Many thanks for your video
Glad if it was helpful 👍🏼
What the parts #for this coupling.
That’s just a generic 750 millivolt thermopile The Amazon version works just fine
Excellent work as always.can you cook up some chicken wings we share em. Hahaha
mine turns off the second you release the pilot down. new valve?
Start with a new thermopile it’s either that or the valve and that’s the easier place to start
@@restaurantrepairswhat valve are you referring to?
@@opiekha gas valve. Either the thermopile isn’t creating enough millivoltage to hold the pilot open or the gas valve pilot isn’t able to open electronically.
@@restaurantrepairs I replaced the thermopile but the pilot still turns off. Any suggestions or ideas please?
@ Should I try to replace the pilot? I was going to try replacing the high limit thermostat & thermostat regulator. Does that sound like a good idea? No one will service my fryer because it is on a food truck! Thank you in advance!!
I have blue Seal GT46. It is twin tank deep gas fryer with two separate vales. One side was working fine but the other one has issue with its pilot. The pilot was not staying on. As soon as I leave the pilot holding button, pilot goes off. I have swapped the thermocouple and thermopile of the working side to other but still the pilot did not stayed on. Then I swapped the both thermopile and thermocouple of faulty side to other side. These two items worked there fine. Then I thought that it the might be the issue is with high limit. I swapped the cables of high limits with each other. But bother fryer's pilots did not stay on, they were tripping as soon as I leave holding button. Therefore, I put the high limit cables to its original fryers but now both fryers' are not keeping the pilot stayed on? I have checked the connectivity of both high limit and they both showing connectivity. Please can you advise what's wrong with fryer specially why the first one has stopped working even though it was working fine before
To test a bad high limit don’t swap them just connect the 2 wires on it together. If you have a good thermopile and a good high limit it’s a bad gas valve