Dana 60 Re-Gear HOW TO
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2024
- UPDATE: While this setup is still going strong, I have found much better, easier, safer, and more efficient ways to complete different parts of fear setups. So thank you to everyone who contributed with comments, advice and questions! Please subscribe to see new videos and how things are done now!
This video is to show you the process I used to re-gear my Superduty Dana 60 front axle to 5.13s. You may follow what I did, and don't make the mistakes I pointed out, if you want to do your own regear!
Below is the list you times you can jump to in the video if you want to see a particular part without watching the whole thing.
The actual write-up for this is at: rallygearproducts.com/blogs/n...
Thank you for watching! If you have any comments or questions, feel free to ask.
Steps/Time:
Disassembly/ 00:00:00
Housing Bearing Race Removal/ 00:00:40
Oil Baffle Part Number/ 00:01:19
Making Setup Inner Bearing Race/ 00:01:24
Old Pinion Bearing Removal/ 00:01:49
Outer Pinion Bearing Race Install/ 00:02:22
Making Pinion Setup Bearings/ 00:03:22
Ring Gear Removal/ 00:04:28
New Ring Gear Prep/ 00:05:10
Roll Pin & Spider Gear Removal/ 00:05:52
Spartan Locker Install/ 00:06:43
Ring Gear Install/ 00:09:45
Pinion Preload Set Up/ 00:11:15
Preload Measurement/ 00:13:06
Carrier Install/ 00:13:48
Gear Pattern Check/ 00:14:32
Adding Pinion Shim/ 00:15:02
Backlash Measurement/ 00:15:21
Pinion Bearing Press-On/ 00:15:51
Inner Pinion Bearing Race Install/ 00:16:41
Carrier Bearing Shim Swap/ 00:17:50 - 00:21:10
(New Carrier Bearings put on inbetween here)
Final Backlash and Pattern Check/ 00:22:41
Final Pinion Install with new Hardware/ 00:23:11
Final Patterns/ 00:23:31
Gearings are a pain in the Butt! Great Vid!
kamuela2000 Without a doubt! I’m finding they get a bit easier every time but something always pops up that is different or not quite right. But all is for good learning. And thank you!
Thanks for the video. Most of us old guys had to "improvise" for tools on each job. Good going!
a tip: watch series at flixzone. Been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Joziah Kamdyn yup, have been watching on flixzone for since december myself :D
Great video!
TheyCallMeCoolRon Thank you! I’m still new at this but each one is a learning experience. I’m glad you enjoyed though
awesome vid thank you!
Thank you for this video, I watched the whole thing, it was excellent! And now, thanks to you, I am out a lot more money.... because that is way more work than I want to do, time to find a good gear guy in town, lol
wolfnightshade54 Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Haha yea it certainly is a lot of work, and more than most people realize. Honestly most prices I hear of good shops doing great set ups aren’t too bad considering the time these take. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
@@4link4wd For sure, I watched a few others before, started to get the confidence I could tackle this project, the other videos I watched didn't capture the total scope of the job like yours did, I get the technical part, not simple but not rocket science. Your video, thankfully with time lapse, I think captured the overall labor intensive part. I also watched the one on the rear end. If anyone is going to attempt this they should definitely watch your videos, well done man. And thanks for also putting in the time to edit and post this I am sure that took as much time as the job itself.
wolfnightshade54 wolfnightshade54 I’m very glad the video helped you better understand how the whole job goes! I have been wondering if it was worth doing the time lapse and putting so much effort into full detailed videos, thinking most people don’t want to watch a long one. But you helped me confirm that it will help some people and that enough is worth it! I hope the time marks help skip around. Thanks again for the input, I appreciate it. If you want to check out my page on Facebook or Instagram it is also 4Link4WD but my personal page is Nick Mangino if you have any other questions
wolfnightshade54 and I agree that it definitely isn’t crazy difficult to figure out after some reading and videos, but the challenge truly is keeping patience to get it perfect and just dealing with all the details in general. Not that hard, just time intensive
@@4link4wd is it a dana 60F ?
a fish scale weight can be used,mech did it on 9" moved at 4lb,i think was 30 yrs ago.
This video is very well done, thank you so much.....the music is also very good. are you able to tell me what songs are in it? Specifically at:
13:40
and 16:40
and 20:22
No crush sleeve on those? nice
On dana60 you have to change the carrier going from 4.10 to 4.88???
Great video. I watch it just for the music sometimes.
I am not totally sure why you made the inner pinion bearing a setup bearing. I have a 2004 superduty 60 and just honed out the inner pinion bearing before realizing it's not needed. Only inner pinion race, outer pinion bearing, and carrier bearings.
When u we’re setting the pinion preload how did u calculate how much of a shims to take out? (Cuz less thick shims = greater preload correct?) and what shim thickness did u start off at to work your way down to wut you needed? Same with the carrier shims how much shim to u transfer for a certain amount of back lash ( or how did u calculate it?)
on the dana 60, you have about 30 degree angle on one side of the tooth and 15 degrees on the other. if you take the amount that you need to increase or decrease your backlash, divide it by 3 that gets you the number of backlash increase or decrease for the 15 degree side so that when the carrier moves toward the pinion all the way in, the teeth would all touch on all sides at the same time.
multiply that number by the cotangent for 15 degrees, which is 3.732050807. That will get you the distance you need to move the carrier to one side or the other to adjust your backlash.
Example: If my goal is to increase the backlash by .005, then I would divide .005 by 3, which equals .016666666 ect. .016666666x3.732050807=.00622008. So I would move the carrier about .006.
I tried this method and it worked perfectly for me.
should weld a bit of flat on that puller bolt.
suddenly the $800 labor at a shop doesn’t seem too bad
so just to confirm.. take old bearing off and hone it out to fit without press... so you can add/remove it to put shims? i did my front d60 with a detroit and 4:56s.. didnt do it right so i gotta go back in there b4 my heavy foot and 40in hawgs blowem up... gotta finish rest of vid. i dont think i crushed the sleeve right either...
Yes that is one way to do it but I actually have a new recommendation. It’s better to get a new bearing (that you hone out) as the set-up bearing because using an old one for setup most likely won’t give the right pattern/backlash on the final fitment because the an old bearing is worn down slightly. I just had an issue with this actually. So if you’re talking about the inner/large pinion bearing, id get 2 new ones. One for setup and one for final fit.
Haha definitely fix it before it becomes a bigger problem. And you can crush the crush sleeve a few different ways but I find an impact and PATIENCE is the easiest way lol. You could also rig up something to hold the pinion yoke and use a huge breaker bar too, but personally I don’t see that being necessary. Just depends what tools you have I suppose.
I plan to be coming out with some more videos soon so stay tuned!
Where did you get that bearing puller from? Or who made it? Thanks
smokeum99ta I got this one from Allstate Gear but I recommend getting a different one because this doesn’t have a lot of sizes to choose from. It doesn’t have big enough “clam shells” for some of the bearings on the 10.5, and even didn’t have the right size to work with another axle I built (I forget if it was the D30 or D44). But I think the Yukon version has better size clam shells or at least one big enough for 1 ton axle bearings. There is a brand called GXL on amazon worth looking in to as well. Just search “clam shell bearing puller” and you’ll find something that will work for you
@@4link4wd thank you
funny,being in aus things are a bit distant,about 5 yrs ago i bought a d44 lockrite,it had an hd ,on box,??.5 yrs later,found out why,IT DONT FIT STD 44RS,unless its a corvette ect,so,re bought correct one,different type,left out the t/washers,mmm,too big a gap,fkit,next day,re installed t/washers,ok..this diff is getting 8 stud ends,twin piston,drilled vented,re placing the ttb in 82 bronc.just put same diff in 75 highboy,cut to swb,no divorced.high pin of course...
buy a brass punch, so at least you'll do less damage with wrong tools
Roddzilla71 definitely will for next time! Thank you
haaa,should try fitting one without the lock pins,now im a juggler in a circus,
You spent $500 on a Yukon bearing remover tool but can’t spend $75 but on an aluminum race driver kit!?
michaelmaxim No, I did not spend $500 and did not buy a Yukon puller. And I didn’t know about an Al race driver kit but I will look in to it. Sounds very helpful!
Lol most shadetree mechanics know what a race installer is.
Too bad the bearing puller is so fucking expensive. Doesn’t hardly make sense for someone like me to spend 400 bucks on a puller that’ll get used once or twice a decade. Sure made quick work work of it tho.
I did find the Allstate one, it looked like the Yukon at first. I have the same axles going in my tj.
You could always sell it if you decide you don’t want to hold on to it. Even if you lose a little money on it, still getting back most of it! But the puller is awesome and makes it so much easier. The Allstate I believe is the same as the Yukon...I think I mentioned somewhere about it not working for some bearing sizes but I later realized there are more size options. The clam shell has a different size on each side whereas I thought both sides were the same