Bouldering Progression Series - Advanced | V7
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You’ve now entered the advanced grade of V7 and above. Crossing this threshold is typically reserved for the hard workers or the naturally talented. To be successful at this stage, your technique should be sound, but more importantly you have to be strong. This is where most people fall short and experience their first plateau. That’s why this video is focused mostly on the training components of climbing. We’ll take a look at exercises to increase strength, develop power, and finish with advanced techniques.
Intro: (0:16)
Strength: (1:19)
Hangboard: (1:40)
Frenchies: (3:17)
Power: (4:36)
Limit Bouldering: (5:03)
Campus Board: (6:11)
Advanced Techniques: (8:31)
Outro: (10:07)
Definitely still climbing V3/V4.. but had to watch the new movement for climbers video 🤭
Haha same!!!
Ya over v4 I can't even figure out how you would grab most of it 😂
When you climb a v4 but cant figure out the start of a v5 .. thats so anoying
@@AdamL_18 I just don't have the finger strength for v5 yet. All the ones in my gym (stone gym St. Augustine Fl.) to do a 5 you basically need to be able to hold onto a half inch ledge with full open palm to start it. I cant quite clamp down hard enough yet to hold my self to the wall with one hands on rounded stuff that sticks straight out. still need at least some cupping. but im in construction and body building so my arms and back can handle caves and stuff already just not my fingers. Im also 210-220 pounds so im gonna need some monster finger strength.
Same
I'm 60 and just sent my first V7. I'm obsessed with body position and movement more than training strength/power and just try limit boulders a lot. Very fun!
Well done old timer! Keep up the good work
Some notes on the hangboarding:
- Always lower yourself controlled into the hang; loading the fingers should be gradual over 1-2 seconds, and you shouldn't be swinging at all
- Engage your lats, pull your scapula back, and bend your arms slightly (basically be at the same position you would be towards the bottom of a pullup). Using completely straight arms/relaxed shoulders can increase the chance of injury. It's less of a problem with only body weight hangs but becomes more dangerous as you add weight. This also allows you to keep your fingers vertically, whereas they may be loaded at a slight angle without bent arms, depending on the width of the hangboard.
- Always use chalk and ensure that your grip won't slip at all. This can load the other fingers instantly and is a common reason for injury on boards.
"If you're trying V7s you've probably been climbing for at least a year" sweats nervously in 7 years experience, 3 of them plateaued at 6/7
I'm at 11 weeks in and did 2 v5s. Getting the hang of V6 moves too
@@ghettokilluh : that’s not making Jacob feel better…
@@troylink2887 I have a background in bodybuilding for 8 years. So technically Ive had the strength for climbing.
@@ghettokilluh Good for you man
@@ghettokilluh no need to big-dick it in the comments
Worth noting that the training takes several months of regular practise to see many gains from, and can be hard to keep commuted to, so I found setting a training plan really helped. Maybe you could do a video on training plans/climbing routines? (aimed at that common plateau of V6/V7, where you need to train to gain :) ).
I absolutely love your teaching style. This series has been so informative and I'm stoked it's finally at advanced level!! Looking forward to incorporating some of these, especially the method you mentioned for limit bouldering.
Sadly this is where most of my gym buddies have reached their last or most recent lengthy plateau that they can’t quite get out of. I hope to join them soon and work our way out of it. Just starting to get v6 sends indoors. Hang boarding regularly has helped a lot!
How often do you fingerboard vs boulder?
I just sent my first v6 too
ive been climbing for 4 months and just broke into the V6-V7 range, i hope i dont plateau here
After 7 months of climbing, I'm at v6-v7 plenty thanks to your channel
I like just watching you climb. Your content contains the best explanations on climbing that I've seen on YT so far, so I understand how it takes a while to make vids, but if you posted more frequent videos of you just climbing in between, I'd watch the shit out of those.
I’ve been watching this channel for months. I went back to Cali to see some friends and climb… never realized you climbed at Pipeworks! Very fun to see somebody else over there
I really love these boulder progression videos I think they’re very helpful!
I just sent my first V7 within a year of climbing. The video was interesting and I wanted to see if it shared qualities with my 7. Precision commitment and generating strength out of a tiny box under tons of tension
This month I'm celebrating my 1 year anniversary of climbing, and I'm working on topping my first V5-6 boulder ^_^ I attribute a decent amount of my success to the wonderful videos on this channel.
wow! cant wait untill progression series V19! :D
Another thoughtful, comprehensive approach to improving as a climber…the only thing that’s missing is the Midtbø-approved method of doing it all shirtless. This is far too tasteful
One day I hope to climb a v7
Dude I hope I can climb a v4 one day even lol
Any advice ? I've just started my hands hurt so bad I wanna go back tho haha
I’m kind of on the same level as you.
Only as of recent I’ve starting sending v4 and soft v5s
The one thing that’s helped me a lot is to get as much mileage as possible, meaning climb a lot
@@janamanoharan1203 im at my gym now haha I need to heal faster
@@janamanoharan1203 hands so sore can't do a lot I used to be able to do
Thank you! V8 next please!
I look forward to these videos every time! Have you considered doing a Lead Progression Series?
This comment aged well!
Thank you, very motivating video! Just what I need to take the next step
I've been climbing for 6 months and I've just done my first v7. These videos really helped, thank you.
Your channel helped me a lot to progress in climbing! Thank you a lot for your really great content!
Fucking love your content. Just recommended this channel to a beginner climber I met at the gym. You definitely helped me on my journey! Thanks for all the hard work
Would love a talk about limit bouldering on system boards!
Awesome video, really helpful to know what to work on. I started climbing progress relatively quickly, just before the lockdown I did my first V7. It took a while to get back in shape once the gyms opened up again but a couple weeks ago I send my second V7. I had the idea that contact strength and locking off were area's which could be improved so its nice to see the confirmation. Keep up the good work, your videos are very much appreciated!
I've been climbing for ~1.5 years and eventually got to v8s but I absolutely do not like using the campus board for some reason. I can hang off pretty small edges when hangboarding, but campusing on even large holds (1.5 in) genuinely doesn't feel good. I'm not sure if my tendons aren't ready yet or if this is some weakness I need to work on. Like I can do 1,3,5 on larger holds but it really doesn't feel great, doing it on smaller holds (especially wooden ones) feels like it will snap my fingers in half.
I have also heard stuff about the campus board being some cause of injury for those who use it improperly or too often.
I think I will try to work on it at least a little though, maybe easing myself into it. This might be indicative of the fact that my strengths are more strongly rooted in technique and flexibility over raw power (not that I'm weak necessarily though because I definitely needed strength to get this far in the first place).
Great vid. I feel like core strength and flexibility training become necessary above this level
It's finally out!!!!
Thanks for your sharing
10:08 yeah, thanks, I am still doing V2-V3 though
This video is so helpful
This is the best climbing channel, period.
I found a great way to train hangboard and not really risk injury. I saw gains within weeks too. Twice a day at home ten minute sessions where you do 50 seconds on 10 off for the whole ten min, and do NO full body weight stuff. Start about 70% body weight and ease that down to about 30% by the end, or when you cant do more. It has been a great help, and a great way to start hangboarding at home
50 second hangs?! That's dramatically impractical for climbing.
@@totalmetaljacket789 no, it isn’t. When strength training you don’t simply do the sport to get stronger, you do training specifically to get the muscle groups used in the sport stronger. Most people I’ve met who hang board do longer hangs than a minute if they can. Most folks just hang til they can’t on progressively smaller holds.
@@michaelkork6773 The practical application just isn't there. There's a reason the 7/3 split is so popular. Not to mention hangboarding has plenty of opportunity for injury when you constantly limit out.
@@totalmetaljacket789 that’s why I do the exact opposite of limit out. I don’t do full body weight because that’s much safer for your tendons and I don’t go til I fall. Doing low weight and more time on the tendons has shown to prevent injury and improve strength. Do you have any actual reasoning for disapproving of my training methods or are you simply being a fool? It has worked well for me and is excellent for preventing injury while hang boarding. There are of course many ways to use a hang board effectively, and all are better for one thing or another
Hi, how do you hang without full body weight ?
I’ve been climbing consistently for 4 months, and I’m 13 (V6-V7 climber), should I consider hangboarding?
Your bouldering centre looks unbelievable
it's sacramento pipeworks! I climb there but I think he doesn't climb there no more bc I haven't seen him & I'm there all the time. (fun fact: it used to be Alex Honolds old gym)
Thank u I need this
Hey! Can you please upload a video in relation to gastons? General technique, how to generate force safely in that akward position, and how to train for it. Thanks!
Very good 😊
What should I do if I haven't been climbing consistently for a year? I've been blessed by having a great community of climbers to teach me and cultivate skill that otherwise would've taken a lot longer to gain alone. I was also lucky to be relatively short but have a thin lanky frame with the ability to generate power due to previous calisthenics experience. So right now I'm about 6 months of very consistent climbing into my climbing career and I can do slightly sandbagged V6-7s in the gym and true to grade V6s outside. However recently my fingers have been unable to keep up with more rigorous climbing sessions and I've looked towards hangboarding. I already incorporate some campus training for power and lockoffs into my routine (although my training is about 90% climbing 10% other) however I'd like to start hangboarding. I can feel a plateau coming on as I just can't climb as hard as I know I can due to my finger endurance not keeping up with my other physical aspects. I've tried 4x4s but doing them on problems that truly push my limits at about 2 grades lower than my max also make my fingers very sore the next day, and adds an extra two to three days of rest that I normally wouldn't need.
Hey, was just wondering how your past year has gone and if you have any similar tips? I've been climbing for the past 9 months now and have done alot of V6s but can't seem to complete V7s. Can do lots of the moves by themselves but not string them all together.
Great video!! I’m going to have to start using some of those exercises for my training!! Fun fact I was able to climb V7 within my first year of climbing!! Im almost to my two year climbing anniversary and I’ve climbed two V9s now!! I’m hoping with this information I’ll be able to start consistently send 9s and maybe get a few 10s under my belt!!
I’m in the same place as you haha, climbed V7 right at the end of my first year, now I’m finally starting to feel like 9s and 10s aren’t that far away. I just need to find a V10 that suits my style and I just might send it.
@@idpanda6386 that’s awesome!! Im sure your going to be crushing those grades in no time!!
@@AEpexclimbing thanks man, and yeah feels good especially cause v4s were hard when the gym reopened a couple months ago. Been grinding hard since then though and I’m stronger than I’ve ever been. GL on your sends 👌
Do you recommend hangboard + frenchies on the hangboard on the same day or should it be split into two days?
Got my first v8 in my sixth month climbing. Can you make one for v9s?
1 year? 1? Year? I climbed my first v7 yesterday after 4 n in all honesty it was over graded. I’m still telling everyone I climbed a v7 though
are u going to make one for v9 and above?
2:39 may i ask how is the beastmaker 1000 attached to this pull up bar. I don’t want to drill the wall and we have the same pull up bar
I followed this, works great
th-cam.com/video/Cu-MrncHpJo/w-d-xo.html
Very solid video. Been climbing for about 5 years and have climbing then bounced off the v7/8 multiple time with injury or pandemics getting in the way of getting past that. Just yesterday I sent my first v7 project since the start of the pandemic after getting back into a gym consistently (and a year of being a in a town without any climbing) and know I really have to work on my finger strength. My power, static strength and general technique is about 90% but my finger strength/trust in holds is probably 70-80% what I feel like I could be at so the hangboarding and campus boarding is going to be a focus for me.
"This is where most ppl plateau"
(Me crying plateaued at V5)
how much cycles of matching and alternating ladder would you recommend to begin with? Never tried campusing before and currently climb V5..Thx
I've climbed for about a month and I've climbed v6, but I keep getting tendinitis in my elbows. I've heard that hangboards can help with strengthening to fix it but I don't know if I should because I haven't climbed for very long. Anyone have any advice?
Really love this video, the beastmaker 1000 is glorious, I love the 20mm crimps so much !
I noticed you're not using your pinkie when crimping, is it weak ?
I find that I'm much stronger on my back 3 (without index) than my front 3 like you were using.
A 3-finger drag is typically stronger than a 4-finger open hand crimp. It is pretty rare for your back three to be stronger than your front three.
Takes time to develop form. Back three half will have better transfer, but a drag gives a tremendous advantage in friction on higher holds (aka where fingerboards are) and is low intensity thus folks can often hold harder holds for longer with this. You won’t see as much transfer, and finger morphology plays a big role in which grip positions feel the best for training.
Aiming for a 7b(+) by next september
This gym looks amazing. Where is this?
Nice video. But it has a distinct lack of tuxedo cats.
I've been climbing for like 10months and recently did my first v8+😄 I'm now at a plateu though and I'm struggling with arm and finger strength
Also, what is your mentality to doing frenchies rather than weighted pull-ups and weighted lockoffs?
People often employ frenchies because these feel hard, but weighted pullups and heavily weighted eccentrics are more valuable for strength development through the full range while minimizing joint strain. Some lockoffs at the standard ~0, 45, 90, and 135 angles are fine, but you shouldn’t have lockoff training as a priority.
I'd guess it was simply shown in this case because it would train your fingers at the same time as your lock off on the hangboard, and if you're climbing this grade you don't need to build strength from weighted exercises as much as you need to build basic finger strength and lock off strength
How did you install the beastmaker to your pullup bar?
Had the same question, hopefully someone knows!
th-cam.com/video/Cu-MrncHpJo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/6p0BoRIY6BU/w-d-xo.html
Hangboarding without weight is for everybody and should be done by anyone who wants to improve their climbing, regardless of experience. Finger Injuries from hangboarding are nonexistent. Just avoid climbing on intense crimps on boulders after hangboarding.
👍👍
Hope you see this! I started climbing almost 4 months ago and can send v6 consistently and some v7’s. One of my goals is to climb v10 indoors by the end of February. What are you suggestions? Lately I have been suffering from bicep tendinitis because I guess I have been training too hard. It’s getting extremely frustrating as my technique is developing quickly id like to think. Any suggestions would help
I began my climbing journey on March 1st, 2021. now, 6 months into consistent training + climbing, i just sent my second ever V7 today (indoor bouldering).
I am planning on uploading a one year progression video too, which will more than likely be released March 1st, 2022!
also, i am now realizing that i should probably slow down a little bit for my bodies sake. i will still consistently climb/train but take it easy on the very crimpy, tendon straining routes
let me know what yall think
Be wary about progress via grades. This is an easy shorthand to explain to newer climbers when to avoid and when to consider adding in sport specific training tools and plans. However, have three gyms in about fifteen minutes of each other with a split of about three grades (the v8s of one feel like the v7s of the next and the v5/6s of the next), and without enough breadth of indoor and especially outdoor climbing can be hard to know where you truly stand.
Once you plateau through nonstructured training for climbing, especially as an avid new climber, embrace the plateau for a little while the tendons get more resilience as these develop far slower than your muscles. Try to expand the capacity to flash hard problems, repeat harder problems, send across varied angles and styles, and similar. Else you will probably find a finger or two tweaking and restricting your ability to progress for far longer than a few months or risking injury itself.
Good on the progress, though.
Hit up a board (kilter, tension, moon) and figure out your real upper limit. Most gyms grade soft in some way, but the board makes all equal. Typically, people I've talked to drop at very least a V grade on a board.
Seems like this playlist is in reverse order.. with Advanced up first.
today, after 8 months of bouldering i've sent my second V7
Its my first week of climbing and I got a few v5-6's down but the 7'-8's seem ungodly impossible. The progression seems like it takes way longer the more you move up the V's
If you had V6s among your first week of climbing, you either came in incredibly strong and talented or your gym is soft as fuck.
I’m projecting my first v7 only 3 months in to climbing
I climb V2 why am I watching this lol
ive been climbing for 7 months and can climb v9 I never rly trained hang boarding but im also a noob so idk if it would be helpful
"climbing for a year"
Me whod be climbing for 7-8 months and still doesnt know how he get here
Ooh according to this video, I’m an adult prodigy 😅
"V7 is where most people experience their first plateau"
Meanwhile I'm plateaud at v4... 😭
Hitting a plateau every time you move up is normal. I send V5s but can't seem to succeed at V6s. Keep improving, have fun, observe others & ask questions
It might not be a plateau at all, after all each grade (usually) take longer than the previous one, exponentially so as you reach high grades.
That's normal, dog. The people here claiming they banged a V6 within single digit months are probably climbing the softest problems ever given the grade.
Interesting am I now considered an advanced climber at v7?? I thought v13 + was advanced
You probably don't need to train at all to break from V7, limit bouldering is fine. Especially not the campus board.
But training speeds up the process
@@alexantone5532 Maybe? You still need to recover from all that exercice. I guess if your technique is really good less time on the wall and more training is fine.
@@alexgalays910 the large majority of people haven’t reached their maximal recoverable volume
Most people at v6/7 and mid5.12 will need to start focusing on training to see improvement. Unstructured sessions tend to not suffice as there is not sufficient stimulus. However, would agree the campus board is little needed there.
I definitely agree with you. When he said that once you reach V7 your technique is good enough I immediately was like "huh..." The biggest issue I see with people in the V5-8 grade is technique! After that it is maximal finger strength, which a repeater program illustrated here is not very helpful. That is FAR more of a sport climbing protocol. Campus board is virtually worthless at this grade, especially when you can't even really do powerful movements on the large finger rung (20mm or so)... People need to climb with intention, I think the best advice in this video is limit bouldering. Improvements on technique are huge doing this, and strength will come too. Just for reference, I have climbed 10+ double digit boulders outside and climb 5.13+ sport routes, climbing for about 5 years. I started training when I was around the V9 to 10 grade. Even then, it helped but really technique improvements led me to climbing more double digits than the training did.
You’re actually just wrong on the point about needing to climb for more than a year to use the hangboard. It’s a controlled load, where as normal bouldering is not
He is not exactly inaccurate, but certainly the fingerboard is far safer than most people realize. The problem comes in tendon strength development lagging far behind muscle development, and the fingerboard compromising those major connective structures without adding the same fatigued feeling of a bouldering session, which means people continue a session and overtrain.
Probably could've started the training you outlined if it were not for all these lockdowns and a tight wallet.
Just skips v6 lmao
He did V5/V6.
Love this video, the atmosphere and information provided are very digestible. I have a question about spray walls, wouldn’t they be better at this stage because coming from v5/6 climbs are only just starting to have truly strength and power limiting moves. Training here you could combine specially made deadpoint climbs with power aspects for more fun and efficiency
Bro what's with your left pinky popping off the campus board like that? Is that intentional to practice open hand grips? Cause it looks kinda sketchy (that's like the number one way to pull a tendon)
maybe its way smaller then the rest of the fingers, so its quite hard or even impossible to even put it on there. i have the same problem. i also have to do the 3 finger campus moves.
Why do you advice not to use fingerboard ? Less than a yr climbing? I have 4months now, climbing consistently ,I did several sports before!!! And I’m already in between 6/7 and exactly felt some extra finger strength should be needed 4 this kind of problems so, How could I achieve it ? I’m actually able to do the 7:30s thanks 4 reading !!1
If you're climbing V7 in single digit months, you need to visit some other climbing. Outdoor, board, other gyms, something. You'll probably discover your gym is softballing you.
I do! I started three months ago with rock climbing and visiting lit all gyms in my city wich are several so!! Other hard climbers advise me just to have fun !! And wait time will tell lol !! And yep I realized my og gym is kinda soft so I'm sticking into handle an average in all of them wich seems to be v6 and 10b on rute btw 10 months right now and struggling 💪🏾 your vids help me tons with technique 🤘🏾🖤
This is great. Ill try and do frenchies, never heard of them. Commitment is 100% my problem with going higher than 7/8. Buuut its that risk vs reward so it is what it is sometimes :)
For me it is hard to relate by orienting on the grade. What experience/skill-level would you consider a V7 climber addressed here? In my gym (eastern Germany) V6ish are the hardest boulders done by about 1-2% of the climbers/visitors there. Most people climb about V0-V1.
Your gym probably sandbags their grades to be the same as outdoor grades
Outdoor grades are probably more aligned between here and Germany. Id say indoor V7 where i climb (cliffs of id in Los Angeles) is outdoor V4/5 in America.
That said, 1-2% sounds about right. Can't imagine more than 5-10% of people doing indoor V7s here.
Ill never understand the sandbagging indoor grades to match outdoors. If i wanted to climb outdoor grades id be outdoors, but im not, im indoors. So give me indoor grades!
@@Jagknorr outdoors and indoors grades should be the same
@@alexantone5532 nobody would climb lol. For a hobby to be fun and addictive youre supposed to have achievements along the way to push you and keep you motivated. Jug climbing is OK the first time but if your still only capable of doing that the 2nd time, its not going to be fun and they wont come back and experience the joy that is actual climbing. Maybe ropes could be the same grade but if its a bouldering only gym, i think youd get a lot less repeat business. A lot less people coming into the sport.
So is v6 impressive if I just started climbing multiple times a week ~6 weeks ago? Probably climbed 15-20x over the course of 3 years before but only ~v3 until I just recently got really dedicated… not sure where that puts me
If you climbed your first V6 in 6 weeks, your gym is probably very soft.
Everyone I've ever talked to that climbs V7+ in my gym as an adult has been climbing for a considerable amount of time very seriously.
@@totalmetaljacket789 well I did climb a bunch of times scattered throughout the years like I said, so my form wasn’t compleeeete garbage when I started going hard 6 weeks ago and I came in doing years of calisthenics. I’ve gotten a v6 at a few gyms now, bit of a nomadic climber never sticking to one spot 😅, but I have yet to get an outdoor v6…only v5 outdoors as of yet
This channel helps me as a newbie so much haha
When should one start training pinch strength?
Similar to hang boarding. Make yourself a pinch block and go wild.
I love how the "hangboard" is like this super entity and the most discussed item in climbing. No one ever takes into account the individual. Or that their is some secret. And the fact that they always have to have a disclaimer when discussing it. Grow up.
What?