Bouldering Progression Series - Intermediate II | V5+, V6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
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We’re now in the last intermediate stage where we’ll be tackling hard V5s and V6s. This is the turning point in indoor bouldering where beyond this level fitness starts to be a heavier factor than technique. Undoubtedly smooth climbing will always increase your chances of sending, but developing strength will give you more opportunities to implement your skills. This video will go over some of the more advanced techniques as well as fitness components. But first, let’s start with some unique hold types.
Intro: (0:00)
Hold Types - Pockets: (1:01)
Hold Types: - Misc Holds: (2:11)
Climbing Technique - Deadpoint: (3:15)
Climbing Technique - Awkward Starts: (4:30)
Climbing Technique - Cutting Feet: (5:33)
Fitness - Power Endurance: (6:32)
Fitness - Steep Climbing: (8:01)
Bloopers: (9:20)
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I cant believe how relaxing these guides are
No joke, I just woke up from a much needed 3 hour nap that was brought upon by watching this video on my couch
Nope
Literally rewatching them to fall asleep while ~learning~
Finally sent my first v6. Felt so awesome and smooth
I've been waiting for this one for months
I was deadlocked at V3 for about a year before I started consistently hitting V4s a year ago. V5s came on much more quickly, and now I'm hitting another deadlock at V6. V5 isn't super-consistent yet either--I've flashed 5s that suit my style but some still feel ridiculous. Kind of wild to see how well your videos have lined up with my plateaus lol
Pretty new to bouldering and currently climbing V2/V3. Watched the other videos of this series yesterday and saw they were from months and even a year ago. What a coincidence that this one is released today. These kinds of videos really help me understanding the technique better and are helping me with my progression. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Daw same im pretty new too (2months) and currently climbing V6/V7 and what a coincidence that this was released today
Lol@@pokemonrose6081
really like the ending clips of failed tries... your climbing always seems elegant and easy, it's inspiring to see that you also took many tries to manage these climbings and made this nice video : )
Every time one of these is released I am just getting out of the grades and I still learn so much! Thank you!
Really appreciate your work especially on the progression series! Certainly helped a lot through out my bouldering journey.
This is one of those channels where I like the video before i even watch it because the content is such quality and so concise in its explanation. keep doin what your doin my dude!
This video is also particularly helpful as Ive just recently started projecting V5/6s after having been climbing for about 2 years now. Definitely have been working on my fitness and hang boarding more recently to push into those higher grades.
I always get so much value from your videos, thank you. Something that really stood out to me today was that bouldering has a high fall rate and that routes are meant to be attempted multiple times. Oh I needed to hear that today, thank you!
Super excited for V7 - V9 and potentially beyond! Really great series that helps you better understand concepts that you’ve been using unknowingly in the gym!
This format is always really helpful. Great video brother...Sam✌️
By far my favorite channel for improving my climbing. So detailed and informative, I've already seen improvement from watching your vids! Thanks for making awesome content!
Thank you for these thoughtful high quality videos! I have learned so much and improved from V0 to V5 within 5 months
The deadpoint segment is exactly what I needed. I generally prefer to climb statically, but because I'm not that tall, sometimes the hold is just out of reach and I have make a dynamic move. I was wondering how to get better at this exact motion. Thank you!
Thanks for this! I've only been climbing since October, but since taking a step back, focussing on fundamentals and fitness, and up&down climbing 2 problems at once I've seen some incredible improvement.
Amazing progression series videos man. Currently breaking into the v5s/soft v6s. When I started climbing back in June your videos were some of the first ones I saw and really connected with your teaching style. Thanks man!
Also love the part about if your going to swing do it once and with style 😎
the timing of these vids has happened to coincide pretty well with my own bouldering progression and I don't think that's a coincidence...whenever one comes out it's right at the grade I'm *just* shy of figuring out. They have honestly been so helpful at getting over that next plateau, every step of the way.
Sick beats. Loving the format of this video 👌🏻
Excellent video my friend. Your videos are helping climbers around the globe.
Always love your stuff man! Thank you for sharing your tips with us
I use to climbed 25 years ago. It is time to start again. Already visited local bouldering gym three time and can solve every V4 problems. I feel like V5-V6 pretty “easy” to do but I have not enough strength in my arms and fingers. So you’re right I need focus on fitness: pull ups, push ups, finger board etc.
Thank you I recently started climbing (other than trees or fences or whatever on my own) and this videos have helped me a lot. There are a lot of things which come instinctual to me, but a lot I have learned with this videos (mainly thinking before getting on the wall).
After 6 sessions in 2 months I just sent my first V5 (I'm not sure it counts, since I kind of broke the beta) and my flash level is V4.
Edit: I did judo before, so I have decent grip strength and I'm fairly skinny which also helps. There are many Boulders where I know I'm just brute-forcing through which is a greater reason to go back to this videos and try those boulders using the techniques you describe.
Awesome video, thank you for talking about power endurance and strength because most people preach solely technique and though it is a valuable and necessary skill like you said climbing also requires a lot of strength.
Thank you for this whole series. Wish I had discovered them earlier, best bouldering tutorial vids on youtube. Packed with great info yet concise, perfectly paced. Do you have any tips on how to engage the back and shoulders better? I try to do it, but when things get hard, form tends to go out the window.
great guide. can't wait for the next one!
dude your phisyque is insane my second time climbing today and i did an easy v6 and alot of people dont believe it on my second time in the gym but i have decent upper body strength and finger strength
These are all excellent tips! Thank you!
If you’re gonna swing do it with style! Damn right! Great vids learned a lot from watching
This is helping me with my v1s and v2s, the gym I've been going to has a lot of overhangs even for the 'easier' boulder.
Great video, salute from HOLLAND!
Just climbed my first V6 so this video is very useful!
quality content , keep it up man!
just broke my ankle from a fall free climbing, i watch these videos to reminisce about my favorite sport :(
so glad i just found this channel
nice content
Would love to see a video about hand skincare cause my hands look like a slaughter house
look up climbOn lotion bar on amazon, put it on after u climb, and ur good 2 go
And shin care too!
@@rameezhasnain9414 will look it up thanks, I have found that Neutrogena hand cream works perfectly for me
hand cream and sandpaper will solve it
@@oleoldeweme3988 thanks for the info, found about it like 2 weeks ago and tbh is the best solution
Dude you’re awesome!
I’m stuck here right now. Thanks for the tips! I think my main takeaway is that I need to be doing more physical conditioning, not just climbing.
Great video!! Very interesting to see the difference in grading internationally. For comparison, the holds and moves listed here are used at 6B/+ (V4) at the gyms in Moscow, Russia. Still, totally agreed with everything - I do think the gyms here under-grade their routes quite often. Thanks for the great video, as always.
My gym constantly uses pockets, blocks and "noodles" on V2s and V3s.. no idea if they are under-grading or just being creative, lol
Nice one man 😊
*Sees the title*
*Drops everything to watch*
yo same ! XD
I was so stoked to see this one! The high wall at your gym is sick. Also, I have the same pull up bar/hangboard setup. Do you find that the hangboard leans forward as you put your weight on it, making smaller edges more difficult?
If the hangboard moves, it's not properly set up. Not a huge deal, but it shouldn't do that ideally.
who else would love an extended sequencing video? really liked the exercise to guess the holds before you gave us the answers
i incorparated gymastic rings and some light hang board sessions and its a gamechanger when climbing 5s and 6s
What do you do with the rings? (I also got a lot of mileage out of a little finger work, and I was just using half my body weight.)
@@richarddoan9172 alot of dips pull ups and push ups
Thank you
Really good stuff. Would love to get more advice specifically about latching crimps on overhangs and developing more contact strength in general. When I'm doing big throws I often find I'm hitting the target open-handed or without body tension and I can't hold on.
Maybe it's too hard to film but would love to see close-ups of your hands on some of these moves.
that's the thing though, if you train your open hand, you will be able to catch the hold like so. it's quite common to do that (also less injury prone) then re-adjust the grip to a crimp if needed (deep lockoff, moving laterally, etc)
“Do it once... (with style 😏)”
I've only picked up climbing but as the climbing center near me only has v4+ ranked routes for auto belay I wanted to have a look
yess finallly
Gotta admit I was hoping for some training/exercise recommendations outside of climbing for the physical aspect of these grades. But great video nonetheless!
That's coming up in the next video. In my opinion most people can get up to V5/V6 (my gym's grades) through just climbing and no training. From V7 and onward typically requires that additional climbing-specific training effort. Thanks for the feedback!
you decided to leave out dynos and jumpstart. or is that in part III? they can save energy and r fun to do. it would be interesting to see your take on them!
You need to write a book!
My gym has 2 V3 boulders that are all pockets and I very nearly seriously injured myself trying to climb them. After seeing this I feel they may have been mislabeled. Hopefully after recovering and training the reduced finger hangs I can get them!
outch yeah pockets on indoor V3s is a bit brutal. You need decent straight finger strength and good body positionning to limit injuries on these whereas you can climb V3 in the first few sessions :/
i wish my gym had this many different interesting routes
For clarity, by "5 or more burns on the steep wall" (about 9:10) do you mean max climbable grade for the individual or something else? I normally use steep wall/roof areas of my local gym for tension training and would love to squeeze a bit more out of it! Thank you in advance!
Swing once, with style!
Do you know any good resources for training programs? Or maybe that's a new video idea? Im at the v4/v5 level and would like to know how to balance projecting with training days/what to do on training days. All I know is that its good to train full body with emphasis on core and pull power, as well as power endurance and flexibility. Any tips?
THATS MY GYM!🫶🏽🧗🏽
In the advanced serie you talk about using the campusboard to increase power. However, i never use the campusboard but do use the moonboard. I feel like the moonboard also increases power, tension and finger strength while being more specific then campussing. How do you feel about board training? I don’t think you have covered this yet
Any plan to put out a nutrition video?
Based swinging tips
I have a huge problem with my skin even though i try to keep it intact. Mostly after like 2 hours bouldering with rests between, my hands cannot really tuch anything. But my muscles would be good doing some more overhang.
At what point in our progression should we incorporate things like the moonboard? I started on that during my v4-v5 phase and everytime i end up with very sore fingers and symptoms of synovitis. I dont even go that hard on the board, just benchmarks v4-5.
I’m realising that I am beginning to split up when it comes to my claimable grades I took a long break through covid and was climbing v4s comfortably and v5s every now and then depending on how well they fit my style. I caught up pretty quickly Since I got back into it around 4 weeks ago or so and now I completed my first v6 yesterday (2 different ones in one day) I was really happy but I began to notice that I still had trouble completing certain v4s and more v5s. Is there any advice for this situation ?
God damnit got to diet this winter fat off to set V6s this summer
How did you install the beast maker onto your chin up bar?
No slimpers? Great video as always
I thought they were called "cropers" ;-)
I climb mostly v5, v6. Just got my first v7. Thing is, there are certain v5s that still give me trouble. Been bouldering indoor for 1 year. Any tips to start flashing more v5s and getting more v6+ problems? I find myself burning out quickly mentally.
how did you attach the hangboard to your pull up bar?
The Cutting Feet technique is from Cinderella
What is that hangboard / doorframe pull up bar piece of equipment 1:48 ?! A link would be great man! Awesome vid
Geek Climber’s channel has a video on how to set this up
@@Nixthyo had a quick look but couldn’t find, what’s the video on/ can u link man? Cheers in advance
th-cam.com/video/Cu-MrncHpJo/w-d-xo.html
6:00
How do I keep my scapula depressed when I jump and reach for a hold? When I raise my arm my shoulders naturally go up D:
Scapular push ups can teach you: th-cam.com/video/XIkPI-_80r4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Perform360
Ya'lls gyms aren't using pockets until V5-V6? My gym keeps putting them on V2s :(
That's just dangerous setting =(
Like he mentioned, pockets cause a lot of injuries.. I would avoid them if you can
An important technique you missed: Grunting on hard moves
Thank you for showing that you fail too in the end😜👍💯
How far do you plan to take this series?
Two more left. One for V7 and one for V8 and above.
What trousers are they ?
the real question is how do i improve my slab climbing? can't even climb 6a slab outdoors..
The Holy grail of skill acquisition.
I would love to be back on the walls, but in my country still everything is closed :(
song??
"This is the turning point in bouldering where beyond this level fitness starts to be a heavier factor than technique"
Oof. Dunno if I agree with that one mate. Still love the video like usual though, good stuff.
true, I think you need a base level of fitness to do like 7+ climbs, but most of the hard climbs I send are because of a foot adjustment or subtle hand positioning. Not because of strength gains
I think he's right, though it's not that technique isn't important. More-so that by the time you get to that level you have pretty good technique, so strength starts becoming the limiting factor. You'll still have to figure things out and try out different approaches all the time, but you won't have to really learn or train more technique-wise like you do when you're learning at lower grades
@@La0bouchere How do you mean not learning or training technique? When even the best climbers practice on bouldering walls they're not doing it for strength only.
I might agree with an idea that raw strength becomes more important than before, or even that it starts to become important at all, once you graduate from the beginner level, but I'm just not sure I can accept the way he said it.
2:47 this comment is showing appreciation for the emoji on the top hold.
why does the music hit so hard
I had to learn the deadpoint as a beginner because I'm 5'0" 😣
my gym literally has all these at v3/v4 level lol
I lost everything before and after "Do it once (with style)"
Your gyms don't set mono one arm double dynos at v5 - v6!
MY GYM SETS THESE AT V2! 😉
Worst bloopers ever
Your videos always make my day when they release ^_^ though I'm currently a V3-4 boulderer, I still found so much to implement from this, and all, of your videos. I have to admit I also love your moments of comedic relief throughout. Thanks for another lesson!
P.S. Your shirt has become my go-to for the climbing gym, and it's wonderful. So soft!