Thanks, that means a lot! Always felt like a lot of the stuff that helped me weren’t being said (and not that other stuff is wrong, but just that there’s always different ways to approach getting better). Hope it helps :)
Your channel is amazing. Different content and approach from what I’ve seen elsewhere and you break things down really well, great amount of why, a little biomechanics so we can understand how to apply beyond just “do this drill” (the drills are great too obviously). I’m just becoming an “intermediate” climber and your videos are so helpful, thank you for making them!
Amazing breakdown really. I have to try these. Since I still have fairly low power, learning good technique is really important for me, and will benefit me later I'm sure.
wow that is some high praise! it's comments like these that make me glad i started the channel, so I hope I can keep providing stuff that'll be helpful for you guys :)
Man, I can't wait to try these drills next time I go to the gym. Thanks for such nuanced tips perfect for the grade level I'm trying progress through. I haven't sent a v6 yet, but hopefull I will with these tips!
You sound psyched, so I'm sure you would've sent one in due time. I can only hope the videos just help you get there faster so you don't have to spend as much time figuring out the same stuff i did. Good luck!
Enjoying all the intermediate drills you've listed here! They've gone into a lot of detail I've often discussed with my climbing friends but often get glossed over in other videos. Curious how you would generate to the next hold at 6:22 by using your legs/using your momentum however. I think that climb usually uses the lower foot but curious how it would be done using the setup here - high white foot. I tend to struggle at these type of moves if i I can't drop knee or heel hook on them. Other similar moves I'd struggle on would be the crux of t rex v4 (moonboard 2019).
Haha yeah it's been awhile since I've seen this climb, but I think you're right about the lower foot. I mostly chose this example because at the time I had just seen someone do that exact situation. My approach for these kind of moves is to use the "Load up and retract" method. This won't be fully leg dependent, but the goal is to reduce the amount you're pulling. Imagine when you try to get max height for a vertical jump. You'll drop alway the down before pushing as hard as you can. The opposite applies as well for scrunchy, leg generated moves. Push away from the wall (flex the ankle, extend at the knee), and when you feel weightless pull back in as fast as possible (especially with your legs, flex ankle in pulling motion, pull with posterior chain). If you have a tb2 then a good climb to practice this with is the second move of "The Host Star". It's not from a matched position, but the high foot makes the leg motions nice to practice. Hope you enjoy it! :)
I've done a couple of v8's outdoor and indoor and im worried its gunna take me a while to get to v9, (it took me a whole 3 months to get to v8 from v7) hopefully this vid helps
Great video, my only pushback would be that in my experience there isn’t a true way of ever measuring where you’re truly at as a climber. I say that because grading is so subjective depending on where you live, where you climb, etc…I know climbers from other states who’ve visited my city and talk about how different the grading feels both at crags here as well as gyms (sometimes as much as 2 or 3 grades different. So someone who might think that they’re an intermediate climber may go to another state and find out that according to the grading in that area they’re actually a little more advanced or a little less advanced and if you’re not the type of person who travels all over the place and can really gauge based on averages where you stand, thwn you’re never truly going to know. I understand the point of the video but even watching some of the climbs on the video is frustrating because I know that where I live everything feels significantly harder than what I see online from other amateur climbers (not talking about the pros or any elite level climbers). Also, some gyms have setters who want you to improve and will set accordingly while others have setters who make everything about their own egos and they’re not very interested in helping others to grow but moreso interested in taking joy out of watching people struggle on their whoafully sandbagged sets.
I agree with what you're saying about how universal measurements don't mean much in climbing. However, I think that it sounds like the fact that the climbs you see online looks easy affects you in some way. I think generally it's always better to aim for constant improvement wherever you happen to be. Similarly, I think that assuming that climbs you see elsewhere look easier online is a bit of a falsehood for a few reasons: 1. Most of the climbs i show in this are indeed easier graded climbs because I am showing drills. 2. Even if I were showing harder climbs, I don't think that it's particularly easy to judge difficulty since it's hard to determine what the holds or wall angles feel like without being on it. 3. Similarly, climber characteristics like my own skill or strength levels just might mean that I can trivialize a V9 cause of the fact that I can one arm hang a 20mm. It's similar to seeing a beta video online of a climb outdoors you want to do, think it looks easy, get there and realize that it won't be so simple. But regardless of how hard of a gym I go to, if I flash a v8 then someone will just think it's a V4 in their gym since they don't realize how much finger strength I have, despite the pedestrian climber maybe having like +40% BW hangs with two hands compared to my +95%. I'm not trying to use these numbers as a way to flex, I'm trying to show how it's not something that would be visible in a video I'm not saying I can't relate to the sentiment (since I've climbed at gyms that were severely sandbagged, up to 2 grades harder than the hardest outdoor crags, which i think is saying something given that outdoor climbs tend to be significantly harder than gym sets already), but what I'm really trying to get at is that thoughts like that don't end up being productive and can end up leading to more illusions around how we "measure" ourselves. I think it's great you've realized that grades are not universal, and I'm sure over time with more experience you'll also realize that it doesn't need to make you frustrated. If I go from projecting a V11 in one gym to projecting a V7 in another gym then I just accept it and see what it is I need to learn. Thanks for the comment though! Definitely more thoughtful than what I'd usually expect on YT.
if you have access to a moon/kilter/tension board that's a decent way to benchmark yourself nationally without having to travel. If you can do 5 benchmarks of a given grade on one of the boards, you know that you definitely can climb at that level in most gyms/crags. grading is subjective and varies a lot from area to area, but the boards are the exact same for everyone
The boards are definitely the closest thing to universal, but there's still actually some variance. For example, I used to climb at a gym where the boards were located in a weird corner upstairs that no one would frequent. Nice crisp holds even on that moonboard black bar pinch. My current gym has a ton of people who board since it's where Ravioli Biceps goes, so the boarding culture here is more prevalent. The holds are significantly more slick. Testpiece podcast 56 and Tom O'Halloran's recent video on the impossible V7 benchmark also dive into this idea a bit. I'm being incredibly pedantic with this comment since yes the boards are the closest thing to universal grading, but i just think it's interesting how there's a limit to them as well
"a common misconception is to assume that dynamic climbing is not technical" dude!!!!, so much truth in this!
As an intermediate climber, this video is a godsend. Your channel is a goldmine thank you!
Thanks, that means a lot! Always felt like a lot of the stuff that helped me weren’t being said (and not that other stuff is wrong, but just that there’s always different ways to approach getting better). Hope it helps :)
Your channel is amazing. Different content and approach from what I’ve seen elsewhere and you break things down really well, great amount of why, a little biomechanics so we can understand how to apply beyond just “do this drill” (the drills are great too obviously). I’m just becoming an “intermediate” climber and your videos are so helpful, thank you for making them!
As an intermediate climber, very helpful video. Thank you for covering concepts not many others are talking about
Amazing breakdown really. I have to try these. Since I still have fairly low power, learning good technique is really important for me, and will benefit me later I'm sure.
Very nice and thorough analyses and explanations. Also you have a good rythm in your narration. Quality stuff.
8:21 is my favorite part of the video thank you
HAHA glad someone enjoyed that
Just wanted to drop a little encouragement for ya. This is one of my favorite climbing channels. Thanks for the great drills.
hip follow through is a new one for me, cherrs
Bruh you came from nowhere and randomly became one of the best climbing channels... :-O
wow that is some high praise! it's comments like these that make me glad i started the channel, so I hope I can keep providing stuff that'll be helpful for you guys :)
very intelligent insights, fantastic vid
Thanks! Hope it helps :)
Thanks so much for this channel!
Really valuable information, really well presented, really pleasant vibe. Top notch.
Keep it up!
Feel like i just attained enlightenment after watching this. Time to be a crusher
wow really eye opening stuff, many thanks for sharing!
your channel is very underrated.
Ayyyy first one to see this gem!!
Man, I can't wait to try these drills next time I go to the gym. Thanks for such nuanced tips perfect for the grade level I'm trying progress through. I haven't sent a v6 yet, but hopefull I will with these tips!
You sound psyched, so I'm sure you would've sent one in due time. I can only hope the videos just help you get there faster so you don't have to spend as much time figuring out the same stuff i did. Good luck!
Enjoying all the intermediate drills you've listed here! They've gone into a lot of detail I've often discussed with my climbing friends but often get glossed over in other videos.
Curious how you would generate to the next hold at 6:22 by using your legs/using your momentum however. I think that climb usually uses the lower foot but curious how it would be done using the setup here - high white foot. I tend to struggle at these type of moves if i I can't drop knee or heel hook on them.
Other similar moves I'd struggle on would be the crux of t rex v4 (moonboard 2019).
Haha yeah it's been awhile since I've seen this climb, but I think you're right about the lower foot. I mostly chose this example because at the time I had just seen someone do that exact situation.
My approach for these kind of moves is to use the "Load up and retract" method. This won't be fully leg dependent, but the goal is to reduce the amount you're pulling. Imagine when you try to get max height for a vertical jump. You'll drop alway the down before pushing as hard as you can. The opposite applies as well for scrunchy, leg generated moves. Push away from the wall (flex the ankle, extend at the knee), and when you feel weightless pull back in as fast as possible (especially with your legs, flex ankle in pulling motion, pull with posterior chain).
If you have a tb2 then a good climb to practice this with is the second move of "The Host Star". It's not from a matched position, but the high foot makes the leg motions nice to practice. Hope you enjoy it! :)
Super good video! Building heightened body awareness
This was excellent
Love the video!
The production value 🤌
Always trying to improve it!
Nice video series ..😮
8:21 that face 💀
This is good content
Joke's on this video. I already fall on both V4-V6 AND V8+ problems!
4:00 - Correction: “Hips don’t lie” 🎶 😂
I've done a couple of v8's outdoor and indoor and im worried its gunna take me a while to get to v9, (it took me a whole 3 months to get to v8 from v7) hopefully this vid helps
3 months isn't long at all to go up a whole grade. Remember that the gap is larger as you go up.
Great video, my only pushback would be that in my experience there isn’t a true way of ever measuring where you’re truly at as a climber. I say that because grading is so subjective depending on where you live, where you climb, etc…I know climbers from other states who’ve visited my city and talk about how different the grading feels both at crags here as well as gyms (sometimes as much as 2 or 3 grades different. So someone who might think that they’re an intermediate climber may go to another state and find out that according to the grading in that area they’re actually a little more advanced or a little less advanced and if you’re not the type of person who travels all over the place and can really gauge based on averages where you stand, thwn you’re never truly going to know. I understand the point of the video but even watching some of the climbs on the video is frustrating because I know that where I live everything feels significantly harder than what I see online from other amateur climbers (not talking about the pros or any elite level climbers). Also, some gyms have setters who want you to improve and will set accordingly while others have setters who make everything about their own egos and they’re not very interested in helping others to grow but moreso interested in taking joy out of watching people struggle on their whoafully sandbagged sets.
I agree with what you're saying about how universal measurements don't mean much in climbing. However, I think that it sounds like the fact that the climbs you see online looks easy affects you in some way. I think generally it's always better to aim for constant improvement wherever you happen to be. Similarly, I think that assuming that climbs you see elsewhere look easier online is a bit of a falsehood for a few reasons:
1. Most of the climbs i show in this are indeed easier graded climbs because I am showing drills.
2. Even if I were showing harder climbs, I don't think that it's particularly easy to judge difficulty since it's hard to determine what the holds or wall angles feel like without being on it.
3. Similarly, climber characteristics like my own skill or strength levels just might mean that I can trivialize a V9 cause of the fact that I can one arm hang a 20mm. It's similar to seeing a beta video online of a climb outdoors you want to do, think it looks easy, get there and realize that it won't be so simple. But regardless of how hard of a gym I go to, if I flash a v8 then someone will just think it's a V4 in their gym since they don't realize how much finger strength I have, despite the pedestrian climber maybe having like +40% BW hangs with two hands compared to my +95%. I'm not trying to use these numbers as a way to flex, I'm trying to show how it's not something that would be visible in a video
I'm not saying I can't relate to the sentiment (since I've climbed at gyms that were severely sandbagged, up to 2 grades harder than the hardest outdoor crags, which i think is saying something given that outdoor climbs tend to be significantly harder than gym sets already), but what I'm really trying to get at is that thoughts like that don't end up being productive and can end up leading to more illusions around how we "measure" ourselves. I think it's great you've realized that grades are not universal, and I'm sure over time with more experience you'll also realize that it doesn't need to make you frustrated. If I go from projecting a V11 in one gym to projecting a V7 in another gym then I just accept it and see what it is I need to learn.
Thanks for the comment though! Definitely more thoughtful than what I'd usually expect on YT.
if you have access to a moon/kilter/tension board that's a decent way to benchmark yourself nationally without having to travel. If you can do 5 benchmarks of a given grade on one of the boards, you know that you definitely can climb at that level in most gyms/crags.
grading is subjective and varies a lot from area to area, but the boards are the exact same for everyone
@@Josh_A_Lu great idea, thanks
The boards are definitely the closest thing to universal, but there's still actually some variance. For example, I used to climb at a gym where the boards were located in a weird corner upstairs that no one would frequent. Nice crisp holds even on that moonboard black bar pinch. My current gym has a ton of people who board since it's where Ravioli Biceps goes, so the boarding culture here is more prevalent. The holds are significantly more slick. Testpiece podcast 56 and Tom O'Halloran's recent video on the impossible V7 benchmark also dive into this idea a bit.
I'm being incredibly pedantic with this comment since yes the boards are the closest thing to universal grading, but i just think it's interesting how there's a limit to them as well
@@BetaBoiBrandon which is all the more reason that there needs to be some sort of universal standard established.
Have a comment for your troubles haha
Is drill 1 just twisting your hip into wall? Sorry I'm not following.
Hi, really enjoying your content but please slow down your delivery, I couldn’t keep up with you! 😢
Thanks for the feedback! Will do. I think I went overboard with trying to keep it concise and lost some pacing haha
No matter your actual pace people will always speed up or slow down the content too, just a note.
I think your delivery was great 👍🏼
It will be better for me if you could slow your language speed.
The video probably has a lot of value but it's going too fast too follow for me