INTERMEDIATE Climbing Drills that got me past V8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- Intermediate drills. In my opinion, tension and momentum are 'forever endeavors' in climbing - you can train them all the time and still have more to learn. In this video, I'll go over my favorite drill for each that has helped me learn a lot of what I know for them. With enough consistency, these two skills alone can take you to V8+.
If you want to support the channel by "buying me a chalk block" - www.buymeacoffee.com/BetaBoiB...
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TIMELINE
0:00 Intro
0:37 Why I chose these drills
2:12 Drill 1
3:39 "But I've already heard to keep my hips close to the wall"
4:23 More Drill 1 Progressions
5:39 Drill 2
6:48 The importance of stable shoulder positions
7:40 Dynamic movements to get you started
8:34 Most important takeaway
9:17 Outro
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My favorite climbing progression resources:
BOOKS:
Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle: amzn.to/3HxwufX
Mastermind by Jerry Moffatt: amzn.to/3ju903o
9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave MacLeod: amzn.to/3RwCl9S
Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success by Dave MacLeod: amzn.to/3YnOeRF - กีฬา
![[Watch Party] APL 2024 รอบ 8 ทีมสุดท้าย ไทยต้องแชมป์ !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NctOkvaex-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
"a common misconception is to assume that dynamic climbing is not technical" dude!!!!, so much truth in this!
As an intermediate climber, this video is a godsend. Your channel is a goldmine thank you!
Thanks, that means a lot! Always felt like a lot of the stuff that helped me weren’t being said (and not that other stuff is wrong, but just that there’s always different ways to approach getting better). Hope it helps :)
Bruh you came from nowhere and randomly became one of the best climbing channels... :-O
wow that is some high praise! it's comments like these that make me glad i started the channel, so I hope I can keep providing stuff that'll be helpful for you guys :)
As an intermediate climber, very helpful video. Thank you for covering concepts not many others are talking about
8:21 is my favorite part of the video thank you
HAHA glad someone enjoyed that
Very nice and thorough analyses and explanations. Also you have a good rythm in your narration. Quality stuff.
Your channel is amazing. Different content and approach from what I’ve seen elsewhere and you break things down really well, great amount of why, a little biomechanics so we can understand how to apply beyond just “do this drill” (the drills are great too obviously). I’m just becoming an “intermediate” climber and your videos are so helpful, thank you for making them!
Just wanted to drop a little encouragement for ya. This is one of my favorite climbing channels. Thanks for the great drills.
Thanks so much for this channel!
Really valuable information, really well presented, really pleasant vibe. Top notch.
Keep it up!
wow really eye opening stuff, many thanks for sharing!
Amazing breakdown really. I have to try these. Since I still have fairly low power, learning good technique is really important for me, and will benefit me later I'm sure.
Love the video!
This was excellent
very intelligent insights, fantastic vid
Thanks! Hope it helps :)
Ayyyy first one to see this gem!!
Man, I can't wait to try these drills next time I go to the gym. Thanks for such nuanced tips perfect for the grade level I'm trying progress through. I haven't sent a v6 yet, but hopefull I will with these tips!
You sound psyched, so I'm sure you would've sent one in due time. I can only hope the videos just help you get there faster so you don't have to spend as much time figuring out the same stuff i did. Good luck!
Nice video series ..😮
your channel is very underrated.
This is good content
The production value 🤌
Always trying to improve it!
8:21 that face 💀
4:00 - Correction: “Hips don’t lie” 🎶 😂
Great video, my only pushback would be that in my experience there isn’t a true way of ever measuring where you’re truly at as a climber. I say that because grading is so subjective depending on where you live, where you climb, etc…I know climbers from other states who’ve visited my city and talk about how different the grading feels both at crags here as well as gyms (sometimes as much as 2 or 3 grades different. So someone who might think that they’re an intermediate climber may go to another state and find out that according to the grading in that area they’re actually a little more advanced or a little less advanced and if you’re not the type of person who travels all over the place and can really gauge based on averages where you stand, thwn you’re never truly going to know. I understand the point of the video but even watching some of the climbs on the video is frustrating because I know that where I live everything feels significantly harder than what I see online from other amateur climbers (not talking about the pros or any elite level climbers). Also, some gyms have setters who want you to improve and will set accordingly while others have setters who make everything about their own egos and they’re not very interested in helping others to grow but moreso interested in taking joy out of watching people struggle on their whoafully sandbagged sets.
I agree with what you're saying about how universal measurements don't mean much in climbing. However, I think that it sounds like the fact that the climbs you see online looks easy affects you in some way. I think generally it's always better to aim for constant improvement wherever you happen to be. Similarly, I think that assuming that climbs you see elsewhere look easier online is a bit of a falsehood for a few reasons:
1. Most of the climbs i show in this are indeed easier graded climbs because I am showing drills.
2. Even if I were showing harder climbs, I don't think that it's particularly easy to judge difficulty since it's hard to determine what the holds or wall angles feel like without being on it.
3. Similarly, climber characteristics like my own skill or strength levels just might mean that I can trivialize a V9 cause of the fact that I can one arm hang a 20mm. It's similar to seeing a beta video online of a climb outdoors you want to do, think it looks easy, get there and realize that it won't be so simple. But regardless of how hard of a gym I go to, if I flash a v8 then someone will just think it's a V4 in their gym since they don't realize how much finger strength I have, despite the pedestrian climber maybe having like +40% BW hangs with two hands compared to my +95%. I'm not trying to use these numbers as a way to flex, I'm trying to show how it's not something that would be visible in a video
I'm not saying I can't relate to the sentiment (since I've climbed at gyms that were severely sandbagged, up to 2 grades harder than the hardest outdoor crags, which i think is saying something given that outdoor climbs tend to be significantly harder than gym sets already), but what I'm really trying to get at is that thoughts like that don't end up being productive and can end up leading to more illusions around how we "measure" ourselves. I think it's great you've realized that grades are not universal, and I'm sure over time with more experience you'll also realize that it doesn't need to make you frustrated. If I go from projecting a V11 in one gym to projecting a V7 in another gym then I just accept it and see what it is I need to learn.
Thanks for the comment though! Definitely more thoughtful than what I'd usually expect on YT.
if you have access to a moon/kilter/tension board that's a decent way to benchmark yourself nationally without having to travel. If you can do 5 benchmarks of a given grade on one of the boards, you know that you definitely can climb at that level in most gyms/crags.
grading is subjective and varies a lot from area to area, but the boards are the exact same for everyone
@@Josh_A_Lu great idea, thanks
The boards are definitely the closest thing to universal, but there's still actually some variance. For example, I used to climb at a gym where the boards were located in a weird corner upstairs that no one would frequent. Nice crisp holds even on that moonboard black bar pinch. My current gym has a ton of people who board since it's where Ravioli Biceps goes, so the boarding culture here is more prevalent. The holds are significantly more slick. Testpiece podcast 56 and Tom O'Halloran's recent video on the impossible V7 benchmark also dive into this idea a bit.
I'm being incredibly pedantic with this comment since yes the boards are the closest thing to universal grading, but i just think it's interesting how there's a limit to them as well
@@BetaBoiBrandon which is all the more reason that there needs to be some sort of universal standard established.
It will be better for me if you could slow your language speed.
Hi, really enjoying your content but please slow down your delivery, I couldn’t keep up with you! 😢
Thanks for the feedback! Will do. I think I went overboard with trying to keep it concise and lost some pacing haha
No matter your actual pace people will always speed up or slow down the content too, just a note.
The video probably has a lot of value but it's going too fast too follow for me