Something that I started doing recently that I feel has really helped me with my progress is repeating hard boulders but picking one thing I want to do better than my previous best ascent. It might be working on sequencing, it might be nailing a foot switch more efficiently in order to make the next move easier. And I try do that on the route until it’s gone from the gym Also, similar to the previous point, I also try to do a route with as many betas as possible so that I get exposed to more movement techniques. And also in relation to @Vahamedus point. My highest send is a 6C+ (font scale) but my hardest project is currently a 7B slab. I don’t think I’m going to be able to send it before it goes, but my goal is to work my way through each of the moves of the boulder in isolation. I may not be able to put them all together yet, but I will eventually, and being able to complete even 2 or 3 moves on a grade far beyond my highest send feels incredibly rewarding
Love that a man mentioned the luteal phase affecting performance! So relevant to many of us. More of this please…A video on menstrual cycle performance with tips will be so useful! A perimenopause, menopause and post menopause will be even better! ❤
We've got a whole playlist of content, please check it out if you haven't already: th-cam.com/video/oBsKorIqoHM/w-d-xo.html as well as blog posts/podcasts covering almost every area we can here; latticetraining.com/blog/womens-training-series/menstrual-cycle/ if you spot anything that's missing/would be helpful let us know!
@@LatticeTraining thank you. They are really good but a bit long, very anecdotal. Nothing yet around menopause (peri and post). One of the videos mentioned them and that they are working on getting more videos on that. I was just wondering for something short, like this video, with tips rather than a conversational video.
yes please on the technique vid!! I live in a foreign country so finding a coach to help is tough! as VR becomes more readily available (apple headset in 2024), I recommend making VR coaching vids.
I don't care about the working on weaknesses thing. I will try the pinches in overhang (I will fall), I will try the sloper problem... But... If it's a sit start, I will walk away. Simple as that.
This might be too specific to some individuals, but I’d really like a video on how to beat deal with elbow pains. From what I can tell it seems very common among climbers, and I’ve been dealing with it for ages now myself. It’s really stopped my development, as I need such long recovery time after each session, and climbing has become so important to me that just stopping for a while doesn’t seem like an option
Here's your viewing list for the evening then! th-cam.com/video/gf4dcg2i2HU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=e8HQBxAxpyVtlcPx th-cam.com/video/vaLFC1pG_OI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zn3J8Gpmugi4Anv8 th-cam.com/video/L0ECHTgc4TM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LA3Bte7zPrGd7HYH
I've been climbing for a little less than a year now, so I don't have lots of experience, but I've learned I need to pace myself. Because when I started topping my first 6a boulders, from then on I just wanted to climb "harder" problems and progress as fast as possible, so as a result my elbows really started hurting. I normaly climb twice a week now and I try to have one hard session and one easy session, focusing more on lower grades and working on my technique and maybe doing more slabs so my arms can get some rest. Also a proper warm up and streching before and after the session helped a lot. I still get pains sometimes, but that's usually because I get way to excited about new boulders and "forget" that I was suppose to have an easy session that day haha
i had exactly this problem. my experience is pretty anecdotal, but i did research on how to fix it and i found the following worked. in fact, some of what i did was taken from a lattice training video on golfer's elbow, which is the elbow problem i had. first, if it hurts really badly, i would recommend taking a break for about a week, maybe two. i found that doing a few sets of a small wrist exercise at the start of every climbing session prevented injury early on. i would rest my arm over a bench facing up, with my wrist a few inches past the end of the bench, and doing sets of curls of a 15 pound or so dumbbell using only my wrist, in addition to extremely light hangboarding (maybe 30% body weight) to prepare my fingers and forearms for climbing staved off the pain. i found that going consistently for maybe an hour-hour and a half every few days helped as well. it is paradoxical that you need to START your climbing by working out the muscles that are already getting strained by overuse from climbing, but it works.
I found my tennis/golf elbow went away on its own after a few months but I have a friend that had it become a chronic issue requiring physio. If you can afford it, a physio consult might be worthwhile! There are also various resources out there with rehab exercises that may help. Otherwise, make sure you're warming up your elbows before climbing. A few steady pull-ups are good - use a band or a pulley system for assistance if you need. If it's not painful, hanging with your elbows locked off at 90 degrees and lowering yourself with control is a good one too (you could use assistance on this exercise too). Try to avoid sudden loads on your tendons while climbing if they're giving you issues too - maybe stay away from dyno boulders for a while and work on climbing a little more statically if you have a tendency to throw for every hold. I've found over time my tendons have gotten used to it and I can get away with throwing myself around sometimes 🙂
I'd recommend the channel Hooper's Beta for this sort of thing. He has loads of really good videos regarding various injuries, including what you describe.
Great content as always ! The hardest part for me and maybe for other people too is knowing what I really want, i do want to improve but i also HATE training , i juste Enjoy coming to the gym and doing the boulder that I like, and its clearly not the solution when you want to improve. Having a training plan in theory is great but as soon as I enter the gym I just see new boulder and run into it. Maybe I am afraid to train and fail so I avoid it unconsciously
As long as you're doing some "work" at more than 80% of your maximum capacity, and limiting rest periods to max. 5 minutes you'll be making progress. So if you just want to climb and not worry about what's optimal, then do that.
@@FrilloTeslar Problem is, people generally will never get above 80% capacity when just climbing, especially indoors, and especially only doing new boulders you think will be fun.
@@La0bouchere If you feel super pumped after a short bouldering problem and are unable to attempt again with success right away, that's a pretty solid indicator that you have been working at a high intensity. You will get stronger if you do this.
This is good topic/thing to consider. We often explore the "WHY you want to climb/train?" with our training clients because this drives motivation and consistency. How you train can look very different based on your WHY and training can feel fun if you challenge yourself in the right way.
This x100, whenever my gym sets harder boulders (V10+) I always give them a try for shits and giggles. No I’ve never done one, but before I couldn’t even hold myself on the starts, and now I can do that and alittle more sometimes.
@@sampsonliao2946 yes their third mistake is just about that. It is worded as "not trying hard climbs". I just wanted to add the grades dimension, because it is so different from country to country, from gym to gym. Some things graded "too low", some are "way too high" etc. Just not engaging in this conversation and learn from the problem is a mindset for achieving higher highs.
I disagree. Even climbs you eventually manage to do often feel quite impossible at first and you only really learn from them (and finally manage to do them) by putting in some good tries. Are you going to do that on something which is 3 or 4 grades above your personal best? What’s the point of trying moves you are not even close to being able to do? Of course I’m not saying you mustn’t try harder stuff, I just don’t think it’s very valuable. It might be a bit different for lead climbing where a 7a climber might be able to do all the moves on a 7b+ but the challenge is in doing them all in one go. Here you can still learn valuable things even if you have to shout “take” once or twice or have to cheat to clip the quickdraws.
I restarted climbing after 10 years of stop , it is few month that I climb now ! and OMG I cannot do the OAP on the 20mm edge , I am not strong I cannot improuve ...
can someone tell me why "I cant do it your way" mean..? like. If I'm shorter or less flexible or simply weaker for that approach why would that imply that they did it wrong..?
I'd add "making it too complicated". Often I see people trying to cramp up all kinds of aspects in their training. My personal approach is to ask myself what the easiest way is to improve my climbing. The low hanging fruit, so to speak. I focus on that aspect alone for a few months and then reevaluate.
As a gifted person with a "good" muscle make up (I have hEDS as well, trust me I'm not bragging that much). My steel fingers have let me just bully my way to V7 and flash V5s within my first year of climbing. I also thank my flexibility as during that time I learned to do the splits. And would argue that flexibility is just as important as strength.
I know how clickbaiting works but I really do hate this rhetoric of "This is the n. 1 most important thing to improve performance". I think you might be creating some form of choice paralysis because of all the things you say are so important. And I'm sorry but "I'd be surprised if you're not making number 4" sounds like a shitty tabloid article. Sorry for the hate, I do appreciate you but I had a bone to pick
Fully understand. We try to strike a balance of "playing the TH-cam game" and creating valued content without annoying people. We've stayed away from click-bate only to see a video we spent a long time on underperform. When we change the title, thumbnail and style it immediately reaches more people. So we have to ask ourselves if it's worth avoiding only for our work to go less far. I know it can be cheesy but thanks for your comment. Hopefully you get some value and we'll continue to work on our presenting style.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for your answer! I do understand how the game works I don't hold grudges. My issue is mostly not in the clickbaiting itself really. I think we've reached a saturation point of climbing training content online and now everything has to be presented as the next groundbreaking thing. When so many tips and analysis gets pumped out, I feel the message that is delivered to viewers is that training is super complicated and you're missing out and wasting time on useless things. Also, inevitably some of those tips or content are going to be redundant, or contradictory, or a stretch (not your content necessarily, I'm speaking in general about climbing content online). I just wish people would sometimes weigh how much a given tip or training tool is actually relevant and present training as something that need not be complicated to be effective. Personally, I've kind of lost trust in these types of training content and stopped watching them except if I'm looking for it specifically. But I might be alone in this. Sorry again for the "hate", I do think you're pioneering the field and I appreciate you!
That's no bad thing, V7 is good and hard! Climbing is all about failure - continue to fail but learn from your failures. Lets face it; if you can do it, it wasn't so bad anyway!
Aiden "A Good Boulderer" Roberts
Something that I started doing recently that I feel has really helped me with my progress is repeating hard boulders but picking one thing I want to do better than my previous best ascent. It might be working on sequencing, it might be nailing a foot switch more efficiently in order to make the next move easier. And I try do that on the route until it’s gone from the gym
Also, similar to the previous point, I also try to do a route with as many betas as possible so that I get exposed to more movement techniques.
And also in relation to @Vahamedus point. My highest send is a 6C+ (font scale) but my hardest project is currently a 7B slab. I don’t think I’m going to be able to send it before it goes, but my goal is to work my way through each of the moves of the boulder in isolation. I may not be able to put them all together yet, but I will eventually, and being able to complete even 2 or 3 moves on a grade far beyond my highest send feels incredibly rewarding
Love that a man mentioned the luteal phase affecting performance! So relevant to many of us. More of this please…A video on menstrual cycle performance with tips will be so useful! A perimenopause, menopause and post menopause will be even better! ❤
They already did videos specifically how to adapt your training around the menstrual cycle
As a guy, I think that’s awesome, this channel really is a wealth of knowledge 😊
@donquikong I know and I’ve seen it but it’s long and no harm on having more from different perspectives and different women.
We've got a whole playlist of content, please check it out if you haven't already: th-cam.com/video/oBsKorIqoHM/w-d-xo.html as well as blog posts/podcasts covering almost every area we can here; latticetraining.com/blog/womens-training-series/menstrual-cycle/ if you spot anything that's missing/would be helpful let us know!
@@LatticeTraining thank you. They are really good but a bit long, very anecdotal. Nothing yet around menopause (peri and post). One of the videos mentioned them and that they are working on getting more videos on that. I was just wondering for something short, like this video, with tips rather than a conversational video.
Big thumbs for an in depth video on technique drills! The classic ones indeed feel outdated.
Josh Hadley, dreamy climbing coach who speaks with patience on sports psychology, learning techniques, and menstural cycles 😍
Just here to say the thumbnail is fantastic, such emotion!
yes please on the technique vid!! I live in a foreign country so finding a coach to help is tough!
as VR becomes more readily available (apple headset in 2024), I recommend making VR coaching vids.
Fantastic content as always! I would love to see a full video dedicated to the technique drills idea, it could be very helpful!
Could you please add ways to make these fun.
tbh if you don't find training fun, just don't do it! just climb however it brings you joy 😄@@garronfish8227
Yup, would love to see more on technique drills! I've done an awful lot of silent feet and hand hovers.
Bring up a lot of this stuff in coaching my son who has lots of mindset challenges, great to have Lattice crew backing me up!
Saying I can't possibly do a route takes the pressure off and doesn't reduce my effort to complete it.
I don't care about the working on weaknesses thing. I will try the pinches in overhang (I will fall), I will try the sloper problem... But...
If it's a sit start, I will walk away. Simple as that.
haha yeah, sit starts can take a hike.
This might be too specific to some individuals, but I’d really like a video on how to beat deal with elbow pains. From what I can tell it seems very common among climbers, and I’ve been dealing with it for ages now myself. It’s really stopped my development, as I need such long recovery time after each session, and climbing has become so important to me that just stopping for a while doesn’t seem like an option
Here's your viewing list for the evening then!
th-cam.com/video/gf4dcg2i2HU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=e8HQBxAxpyVtlcPx
th-cam.com/video/vaLFC1pG_OI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zn3J8Gpmugi4Anv8
th-cam.com/video/L0ECHTgc4TM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LA3Bte7zPrGd7HYH
I've been climbing for a little less than a year now, so I don't have lots of experience, but I've learned I need to pace myself. Because when I started topping my first 6a boulders, from then on I just wanted to climb "harder" problems and progress as fast as possible, so as a result my elbows really started hurting. I normaly climb twice a week now and I try to have one hard session and one easy session, focusing more on lower grades and working on my technique and maybe doing more slabs so my arms can get some rest. Also a proper warm up and streching before and after the session helped a lot. I still get pains sometimes, but that's usually because I get way to excited about new boulders and "forget" that I was suppose to have an easy session that day haha
i had exactly this problem. my experience is pretty anecdotal, but i did research on how to fix it and i found the following worked. in fact, some of what i did was taken from a lattice training video on golfer's elbow, which is the elbow problem i had. first, if it hurts really badly, i would recommend taking a break for about a week, maybe two.
i found that doing a few sets of a small wrist exercise at the start of every climbing session prevented injury early on. i would rest my arm over a bench facing up, with my wrist a few inches past the end of the bench, and doing sets of curls of a 15 pound or so dumbbell using only my wrist, in addition to extremely light hangboarding (maybe 30% body weight) to prepare my fingers and forearms for climbing staved off the pain. i found that going consistently for maybe an hour-hour and a half every few days helped as well.
it is paradoxical that you need to START your climbing by working out the muscles that are already getting strained by overuse from climbing, but it works.
I found my tennis/golf elbow went away on its own after a few months but I have a friend that had it become a chronic issue requiring physio. If you can afford it, a physio consult might be worthwhile! There are also various resources out there with rehab exercises that may help.
Otherwise, make sure you're warming up your elbows before climbing. A few steady pull-ups are good - use a band or a pulley system for assistance if you need. If it's not painful, hanging with your elbows locked off at 90 degrees and lowering yourself with control is a good one too (you could use assistance on this exercise too). Try to avoid sudden loads on your tendons while climbing if they're giving you issues too - maybe stay away from dyno boulders for a while and work on climbing a little more statically if you have a tendency to throw for every hold. I've found over time my tendons have gotten used to it and I can get away with throwing myself around sometimes 🙂
I'd recommend the channel Hooper's Beta for this sort of thing. He has loads of really good videos regarding various injuries, including what you describe.
I want to add to this valuable information that strength is everything. Thanks.
I think number 8 is the most helpful!
Great content as always ! The hardest part for me and maybe for other people too is knowing what I really want, i do want to improve but i also HATE training , i juste Enjoy coming to the gym and doing the boulder that I like, and its clearly not the solution when you want to improve. Having a training plan in theory is great but as soon as I enter the gym I just see new boulder and run into it. Maybe I am afraid to train and fail so I avoid it unconsciously
As long as you're doing some "work" at more than 80% of your maximum capacity, and limiting rest periods to max. 5 minutes you'll be making progress. So if you just want to climb and not worry about what's optimal, then do that.
@@FrilloTeslar Problem is, people generally will never get above 80% capacity when just climbing, especially indoors, and especially only doing new boulders you think will be fun.
@@La0bouchere If you feel super pumped after a short bouldering problem and are unable to attempt again with success right away, that's a pretty solid indicator that you have been working at a high intensity.
You will get stronger if you do this.
This is good topic/thing to consider. We often explore the "WHY you want to climb/train?" with our training clients because this drives motivation and consistency. How you train can look very different based on your WHY and training can feel fun if you challenge yourself in the right way.
I would add: "don't be afraid of the grade" Every approach is a learning session
Kinda falls under the third point, but I agree there's a lot of value to this
This x100, whenever my gym sets harder boulders (V10+) I always give them a try for shits and giggles. No I’ve never done one, but before I couldn’t even hold myself on the starts, and now I can do that and alittle more sometimes.
They said this lol
@@sampsonliao2946 yes their third mistake is just about that. It is worded as "not trying hard climbs". I just wanted to add the grades dimension, because it is so different from country to country, from gym to gym. Some things graded "too low", some are "way too high" etc. Just not engaging in this conversation and learn from the problem is a mindset for achieving higher highs.
I disagree. Even climbs you eventually manage to do often feel quite impossible at first and you only really learn from them (and finally manage to do them) by putting in some good tries. Are you going to do that on something which is 3 or 4 grades above your personal best? What’s the point of trying moves you are not even close to being able to do? Of course I’m not saying you mustn’t try harder stuff, I just don’t think it’s very valuable.
It might be a bit different for lead climbing where a 7a climber might be able to do all the moves on a 7b+ but the challenge is in doing them all in one go. Here you can still learn valuable things even if you have to shout “take” once or twice or have to cheat to clip the quickdraws.
#4: What's wrong with telling someone you're working a prob with "I don't have your shoulder/fingers/smth, I'll need to figure out something else"?
Yes! really enjoyed the bit about ecological approach to skill acquisition and the CLA! it is always great to hear it on a big platform!
Aiden Roberts, “a good boulderer” 😂
Please do an entire video on technique drills :)
I restarted climbing after 10 years of stop , it is few month that I climb now ! and OMG I cannot do the OAP on the 20mm edge , I am not strong I cannot improuve ...
My weaknesses currently are finger strength & sloper strength technique, been climbing for 6months and just climbed my first V5 (soft)
As a 11 months newbie can add pinches and some technique like heel hook and toe hook.
Red point V8 on the slab and just V6 on overhang walls
great tips but #8 is just ridiculous.. i mean really who would ever do that?!
As a beginner, strength building is more about avoiding injuries than climbing better.
This, and for me a second reason is to be able to get more out of a climbing session.
can someone tell me why "I cant do it your way" mean..? like. If I'm shorter or less flexible or simply weaker for that approach why would that imply that they did it wrong..?
I am trying hard boulders but usually only +1 grade. More and usually I can't event start the damned thing.
I'd add "making it too complicated". Often I see people trying to cramp up all kinds of aspects in their training. My personal approach is to ask myself what the easiest way is to improve my climbing. The low hanging fruit, so to speak. I focus on that aspect alone for a few months and then reevaluate.
As a gifted person with a "good" muscle make up (I have hEDS as well, trust me I'm not bragging that much). My steel fingers have let me just bully my way to V7 and flash V5s within my first year of climbing. I also thank my flexibility as during that time I learned to do the splits. And would argue that flexibility is just as important as strength.
Aidan Roberts
- ''a good boulderer''
I'd bet that everyone is guilty of at least one of these. Great video.
Oh thank god. I hate drills.
I know how clickbaiting works but I really do hate this rhetoric of "This is the n. 1 most important thing to improve performance". I think you might be creating some form of choice paralysis because of all the things you say are so important. And I'm sorry but "I'd be surprised if you're not making number 4" sounds like a shitty tabloid article. Sorry for the hate, I do appreciate you but I had a bone to pick
Fully understand. We try to strike a balance of "playing the TH-cam game" and creating valued content without annoying people. We've stayed away from click-bate only to see a video we spent a long time on underperform. When we change the title, thumbnail and style it immediately reaches more people. So we have to ask ourselves if it's worth avoiding only for our work to go less far. I know it can be cheesy but thanks for your comment. Hopefully you get some value and we'll continue to work on our presenting style.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for your answer! I do understand how the game works I don't hold grudges.
My issue is mostly not in the clickbaiting itself really. I think we've reached a saturation point of climbing training content online and now everything has to be presented as the next groundbreaking thing. When so many tips and analysis gets pumped out, I feel the message that is delivered to viewers is that training is super complicated and you're missing out and wasting time on useless things. Also, inevitably some of those tips or content are going to be redundant, or contradictory, or a stretch (not your content necessarily, I'm speaking in general about climbing content online). I just wish people would sometimes weigh how much a given tip or training tool is actually relevant and present training as something that need not be complicated to be effective.
Personally, I've kind of lost trust in these types of training content and stopped watching them except if I'm looking for it specifically. But I might be alone in this.
Sorry again for the "hate", I do think you're pioneering the field and I appreciate you!
I am struggling on v7 😢
That's no bad thing, V7 is good and hard!
Climbing is all about failure - continue to fail but learn from your failures. Lets face it; if you can do it, it wasn't so bad anyway!
A 'good' boulderer 🤣🤣
😂