I had this done to my Celica a few weeks ago at a local garage - my mechanic told me he was absolutely covered head to toe in black once he was done. I have no doubt he was, and I was happy to hand over my nice clean bank card once it was done lol.
Looks straight forward enough, thought I'd best watch a few vids, the missus just bought some and I've been informed I'm to take the job on so guess I'm crawling around under her celica getting filthy.
@TypeRTweaks all good 👍, haven't got ramps so jacked the car, put it on axle stands and got busy,(I had jetwashed underneath the day before). Cleaned all the surface rust off with wire brushes and a regular soft brush, then applied the grease to all the nuts and bolts etc on the track rods, suspension arms and such then got on with spraying. I did the whole car front to back applied a more than generous amount, (to the point it was dripping off) and still only used about 1/4 of the bottle. End result looked really good I'll go over it again in a few weeks to see how it lasts and just to get a bit more protection before the winter.
Hopefully helps as a guide. If I was doing it again, I probably would’ve used hammerite after removing rust, then applied Lanoguard to seal it. Just giving a better cosmetic look.
Did my FN2 three weeks ago. Took all under guards off and gave it a good coating Don't forget to take the guard off in the nearside rear wheel arch that covers the fuel lines it gets dirty behind there and will protect the fuel pipe from rusting. The rear under guard will protect what you have done this year for longer than 1 year .And if you pull the silver cover on the sill where you get in you can spray in to the sills.
Yea defo Agee about the fuel line guard. The same guard also traps mud at the rear suspension mount point. I had minor welding to do there. So worth keeping eye on.
@@fingergoat1810 I did the rear beam axle again last week just to give a refresh ot was still there under the dirt that the wheels had thrown up Every where else under the main plastic undertrays still like when I applied it.
Use that lance and fill the inside of that rear beam where the stub axles are. They're prone to rotting from the inside out and causing the wheel to collapse. You can also get in there where the rear anti roll bar goes into the tubular section on the beam. It's a shame Honda don't rust protect these vehicles properly. I have the 06 2.2 diesel version and the rear underside is pretty much the same. Flakey rust 😒
Looks Great good job, is there any chance you could do an updated video/picture of the car recently. I'm interested in seeing how it's getting on 4 months later. Cheers and thanks for the video
Hey man nice vid, I'm looking at buying an 07 FN2 myself atm and went to see one today, pointed out that there was a good bit of rust in the wheel arches and some small rust holes on bottom left/right sides, also has rust along the top on windscreen seal, calipers, discs as well and underside bonnet so needs a good bit of TLC, garage said they will take it to a body shop and get it all cleaned and repaired before I buy it. So if you've any tips on that sort of situation let me know! thanks!
This goes on clear. Still offers great protection but If I was to do it again, I would do a bit more prep and apply some hammerite then spray Lanoguard. Hammerite giving it a more better cosmetic look
Hi There, I've applied Lanoguard underneath my car but didn't wear a mask for the spray. Will this be alright? I've seen different tutorials showing people wearing masks, and others where people don't. I've noticed that on the spray bottle it's labelled 'carcinogen'. Also have you noticed any effects as you didn't wear one during this video I believe. Thank you!
It’s done well, it neutralised the rust so it didn’t get any worse. It’s Now ready for a re-application. This time I think I would do a better cosmetic job then apply Lanoguard to protect.
I don't waste my money on products like this. I find that butter works far better. I simply smear the butter on the underside of the car and I'm confident this will protect the car from rust for decades.
Hey David, thanks for watching and your comment. It’s doesn’t stain like Waxoil would. The product dries clear so would leave marks if it were to spill, however, as it drives like a clear wax, you are likely to notice a large spill as the water would bead versus the rest of the driveway but that’s all I reckon you would notice. You could put some cardboard down under where you are spraying to catch any overspray / spillage. Hope that helps 👍
I got a quote to have this done from dynodaze. Whether they use the same stuff I don’t know. Your car looks pure black after they have finished doing it. They want £400 to do it plus £68 for materials. My only problem for me doing it myself is. I don’t really have anywhere to do it and wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it in the street. If a mobile person came round and did it I would get it done. Any offers!!
@@TypeRTweaks ok cool 👍 how long did it take ya to do the rust removal on that back end, mine got an advisory for rear subframe suspension and brakes, light corrosion advisory. Am not looking forward to doing that 😤 but it will b worth it .👍
@@Mooney76 it took me a good 1.5 hours. Even then, I probably could’ve spent longer on it. That was from the rear beam back. It depends on clean you want to make it.
Sorry man, for some reason this comment was held for review 😂 so you would do any painting or hammerite first and apply this product after. It does dry but into a waxy costing that you can just top up year after year. If you have a good base or a newly prepped base, then this will keep all your hard work in good condition 👍
Enjoyed your video....But I'm trying to find someone on TH-cam that has protected with Lanoguard a Brand New car !!! Not one that is already as rusty as hell !! Have bought the product but just like to see how it looks on brand new Aluminium and steel etc. New Porsche , dont want it to Discolour the metals etc...thanks, hope someone out there can respond...
Things is people tend to wait until is almost too late then try fixing rust problems when in fact should be done from the beginning of the life of the car
Would it not rott underneath the coat of the spray you put down mate? I know that if you dont get all the rust off before under sealing it it will rust anyway so is this product different than under sealers? Cheers all the best mate
Thanks for watching and comment. The product neutralises the rust by preventing moisture / oxygen, essentially ensuring it doesn’t get worse. If I was doing it again, cosmetically I would treat with a rust converter/ paint and then seal with the Lanoguard product
@@TypeRTweaks cheers for a quick reply mate, my rear beam is rusted similar to what u had, was thinking of having it sand blasted but thats a lot of work, so having a look at all the options i could take. How well does it hold up? Any chance of making a video on it? Thanks one again bud and keep up the good work!
Got the ramps via Amazon, they come with rams that allow you to adjust the height of the top step (raising the car higher, if needed )👍 the extensions were separate and you can buy them from most places (car ramp extensions) and can fit majority of ramps, a real must have for the low riding FN2 😂😂
Do you plan on swapping out the rear beam for a new one at any point only reason for asking as is I hit a pothole yesterday and mine decided to snap 😂🤢
I saw that mate, gutted for you. Did you get it fixed? I’ve had a check and it’s currently not weakened due to rust but I plan to refurb it this year to stop it getting worse
@@RoryToddPS3Gamer thats insane. Its a driveway job to swap the beam out. Most people are using the Type S beam with polybushes. Can be done all in for like £300 (if you fit yourself).
@@ExpressionCulture that would be good Gareth. Although it’s not generally seen, it’s something that you always know is there and niggles away in the back of the mind 😂
Thanks for watching and your comment, it doesn’t make any mess at all. The carpet was just for me and my knees 😂😂 it’s a clear liquid unlike traditional underseal products like WaxOil
It’s done well, it neutralised the rust so it didn’t get any worse. It’s Now ready for a re-application. This time I think I would do a better cosmetic job then apply Lanoguard to protect.
Got them from Amazon. Heavy Duty ramps with hydraulic lift. You can get the same ones without the option for the top plate to lift a little cheaper but I wanted to have the option.
That’s the only downside, it means you would need to do some form of prep / painting underneath to give it a cosmetic look versus applying the waxoil underseal
I absolutely do not see it as a downside. I see it as an upside. I'd rather it is clear so you can see what's happening, than black and hiding trouble underneath. Each to their own! PS - I own a 2006 Honda Accord and plan on doing this job myself, like you've done, on a drive, with the car on axle stands.
Nice video! Looking at doing this myself and after watching this doesn't seem that hard! Just scared to look under mine, if I don't see it, its not there 😂.
It’s been really good, held up really well. The beauty is you can jet wash it and apply more on top the following year. During the summer, I’m actually going to remove the coating and paint the underneath to restore it again before applying the Lanoguard again.
It can last up to 18 months but it’s recommended to re-apply after a year to top up the existing protection ( not need to remove the previous application.
@@fjaff this is better. Underseal is an awful product but last ‘5 years’. Does a horrible job, looks shit and doesn’t stop rust. Lanoguard is the best on the market for protecting your car.
😂😂 definitely. A lot more work to do though. Power Tools make a huge difference and like you say, way cheaper than a garage. Time will tell if it was worth it 😂😂
I had this done to my Celica a few weeks ago at a local garage - my mechanic told me he was absolutely covered head to toe in black once he was done. I have no doubt he was, and I was happy to hand over my nice clean bank card once it was done lol.
Lucky to find someone to trust to do the job.
How much did he charge?
@@AlDEN1999 ah i had welding done as well so it was part of a bigger bill.
Looks straight forward enough, thought I'd best watch a few vids, the missus just bought some and I've been informed I'm to take the job on so guess I'm crawling around under her celica getting filthy.
How did you get on with it?
@TypeRTweaks all good 👍, haven't got ramps so jacked the car, put it on axle stands and got busy,(I had jetwashed underneath the day before). Cleaned all the surface rust off with wire brushes and a regular soft brush, then applied the grease to all the nuts and bolts etc on the track rods, suspension arms and such then got on with spraying. I did the whole car front to back applied a more than generous amount, (to the point it was dripping off) and still only used about 1/4 of the bottle. End result looked really good I'll go over it again in a few weeks to see how it lasts and just to get a bit more protection before the winter.
Done it today on my fk1. Great content certainly helped me kind a get my head around starting the job.😊
Awesome, thanks for giving it a watch
Cheers fella,That's given me an insight into what to expect when I do the same job to my MX-5 NC 👍
Hopefully helps as a guide. If I was doing it again, I probably would’ve used hammerite after removing rust, then applied Lanoguard to seal it. Just giving a better cosmetic look.
Did my FN2 three weeks ago. Took all under guards off and gave it a good coating Don't forget to take the guard off in the nearside rear wheel arch that covers the fuel lines it gets dirty behind there and will protect the fuel pipe from rusting. The rear under guard will protect what you have done this year for longer than 1 year .And if you pull the silver cover on the sill where you get in you can spray in to the sills.
Thanks for giving it a watch, really appreciate the advice. Still got areas to do so will definitely get after it 👍
Yea defo Agee about the fuel line guard. The same guard also traps mud at the rear suspension mount point. I had minor welding to do there. So worth keeping eye on.
How's lano holding up?
@@fingergoat1810 I did the rear beam axle again last week just to give a refresh ot was still there under the dirt that the wheels had thrown up
Every where else under the main plastic undertrays still like when I applied it.
Nice one mate. Did the same on mine. Wire brushed, used some rust neutralise and Hammerite Underbody Seal
Thats exactly the method i used. The neutralise is a must before painting.
Thanks man, That’s the beaut of the Lanoguard product, it neutralises the product and products against further rust.
Mate how's the lanogaurd holding up ?
Use that lance and fill the inside of that rear beam where the stub axles are. They're prone to rotting from the inside out and causing the wheel to collapse. You can also get in there where the rear anti roll bar goes into the tubular section on the beam. It's a shame Honda don't rust protect these vehicles properly. I have the 06 2.2 diesel version and the rear underside is pretty much the same. Flakey rust 😒
Looks Great good job, is there any chance you could do an updated video/picture of the car recently. I'm interested in seeing how it's getting on 4 months later. Cheers and thanks for the video
The KS, I will be doing a review video to show how it handled the salty winter roads 👍
Top video. Cheers mate. I stumbled across this product tonight and ordered the kit. Looking forward to the results.
How did you get on with the kit?
@@TypeRTweaks Still sat in the box unfortunately. Literally not had the time 😂 Aiming to get it done before Oct.
if you are doing it every year, then chain oil (chainsaw lube) 50:50 with diesel does the job, at a fraction of the cost.
can it be applied over existing waxoyl or does it need moved first
Hey man nice vid, I'm looking at buying an 07 FN2 myself atm and went to see one today, pointed out that there was a good bit of rust in the wheel arches and some small rust holes on bottom left/right sides, also has rust along the top on windscreen seal, calipers, discs as well and underside bonnet so needs a good bit of TLC, garage said they will take it to a body shop and get it all cleaned and repaired before I buy it.
So if you've any tips on that sort of situation let me know! thanks!
Great video 😊 thinking this product for my st 😀
any updates after the UK winter and all the salt on the roads? thanks
Does this go on thick? Also is black in colour? As looks clear from here 😮
This goes on clear. Still offers great protection but If I was to do it again, I would do a bit more prep and apply some hammerite then spray Lanoguard. Hammerite giving it a more better cosmetic look
Hi There,
I've applied Lanoguard underneath my car but didn't wear a mask for the spray. Will this be alright? I've seen different tutorials showing people wearing masks, and others where people don't. I've noticed that on the spray bottle it's labelled 'carcinogen'.
Also have you noticed any effects as you didn't wear one during this video I believe. Thank you!
Any update on how it’s looking now?
One year on has it stopped the rust spreading ? thanks
It’s done well, it neutralised the rust so it didn’t get any worse. It’s Now ready for a re-application. This time I think I would do a better cosmetic job then apply Lanoguard to protect.
I got this on order the regular kit do you think 2ltr would do 2 cars ?
I prefer to brush on Schultz underseal on my ep3,less messy,the stuff you used looks runny and thin compared to Schultz.
I don't waste my money on products like this. I find that butter works far better. I simply smear the butter on the underside of the car and I'm confident this will protect the car from rust for decades.
Everyone’s got their own remedies 😂😂
What on earth😂
Yeah sure you do.
Hi
How is the protection after 2 years
Are u still happy with that product ?
Will it stain the drive if you spill any, many thanks
Hey David, thanks for watching and your comment. It’s doesn’t stain like Waxoil would. The product dries clear so would leave marks if it were to spill, however, as it drives like a clear wax, you are likely to notice a large spill as the water would bead versus the rest of the driveway but that’s all I reckon you would notice. You could put some cardboard down under where you are spraying to catch any overspray / spillage. Hope that helps 👍
Thanks for the reply, I'm gonna do my focus st mk 2,i priced it up at a specialist and they wanted £700 so I will be doing it myself, thanks again
Hey Michael, Smashing how to buddy, got to look after your undercarriage 😂😂👍👍
Can’t beat a good scrub and clean up of the under carriage 😂😂
I got a quote to have this done from dynodaze. Whether they use the same stuff I don’t know. Your car looks pure black after they have finished doing it. They want £400 to do it plus £68 for materials. My only problem for me doing it myself is. I don’t really have anywhere to do it and wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it in the street.
If a mobile person came round and did it I would get it done. Any offers!!
Hi dude please can u tell me which type of drill attachment u used for cleaning the rust, I’ve been lookin and wondering which type is best?
Hey man, I was simply using a Ryobi drill with wire wheel attachments. I got the 5hr battery to give me more power for longer👍
@@TypeRTweaks ok cool 👍 how long did it take ya to do the rust removal on that back end, mine got an advisory for rear subframe suspension and brakes, light corrosion advisory. Am not looking forward to doing that 😤 but it will b worth it .👍
@@Mooney76 it took me a good 1.5 hours. Even then, I probably could’ve spent longer on it. That was from the rear beam back. It depends on clean you want to make it.
@@TypeRTweaks ok thank you for reply 👍 it’s given me a good ruff guide👍
Looks great afterwards! - Does it dry out? i.e. can it be painted over with say Hammerite or something? or is it like a waxy coating? Cheers
Sorry man, for some reason this comment was held for review 😂 so you would do any painting or hammerite first and apply this product after. It does dry but into a waxy costing that you can just top up year after year. If you have a good base or a newly prepped base, then this will keep all your hard work in good condition 👍
@@TypeRTweaks no worries! Cheers for the reply.
Can you show what it looks like 1 year later if you still have the car?
Enjoyed your video....But I'm trying to find someone on TH-cam that has protected with Lanoguard a Brand New car !!! Not one that is already as rusty as hell !! Have bought the product but just like to see how it looks on brand new Aluminium and steel etc. New Porsche , dont want it to Discolour the metals etc...thanks, hope someone out there can respond...
Things is people tend to wait until is almost too late then try fixing rust problems when in fact should be done from the beginning of the life of the car
Would it not rott underneath the coat of the spray you put down mate? I know that if you dont get all the rust off before under sealing it it will rust anyway so is this product different than under sealers? Cheers all the best mate
Thanks for watching and comment. The product neutralises the rust by preventing moisture / oxygen, essentially ensuring it doesn’t get worse. If I was doing it again, cosmetically I would treat with a rust converter/ paint and then seal with the Lanoguard product
@@TypeRTweaks cheers for a quick reply mate, my rear beam is rusted similar to what u had, was thinking of having it sand blasted but thats a lot of work, so having a look at all the options i could take. How well does it hold up? Any chance of making a video on it? Thanks one again bud and keep up the good work!
I’m planning to do another video of how well it lasted during the salty winter we had 👍
@@TypeRTweaks good stuff my man will definitely check it out when its out! Best wishes
Us old boys had waxoyl in the past.
Still nothing wrong with Waxoil
Where did you get those ramps from? I’ve always disregard them due to having low cars, but those extensions on the front are a game changer 👏🏻
Got the ramps via Amazon, they come with rams that allow you to adjust the height of the top step (raising the car higher, if needed )👍 the extensions were separate and you can buy them from most places (car ramp extensions) and can fit majority of ramps, a real must have for the low riding FN2 😂😂
Do you plan on swapping out the rear beam for a new one at any point only reason for asking as is I hit a pothole yesterday and mine decided to snap 😂🤢
I saw that mate, gutted for you. Did you get it fixed? I’ve had a check and it’s currently not weakened due to rust but I plan to refurb it this year to stop it getting worse
@@TypeRTweaks in the process of getting it fixed went the insurance route new type is beam is £1300 but in total repair is roughly £3500
@@RoryToddPS3Gamer wow, that’s steep.
@@RoryToddPS3Gamer thats insane. Its a driveway job to swap the beam out. Most people are using the Type S beam with polybushes. Can be done all in for like £300 (if you fit yourself).
Great video Michael. What happened to the brace under the spare wheel well? Looks like someone jacked one it! Painful 🥲
Thanks Gareth, the downside to second hand ownership. Yeah looks like someone has jacked the car up at that point in the past.
@@TypeRTweaks i could likely sort that or vastly improve it for you 🙂
@@ExpressionCulture that would be good Gareth. Although it’s not generally seen, it’s something that you always know is there and niggles away in the back of the mind 😂
I did that to mine, accidentally jacked it up on there! ended up jumping up and down in the boot to push it back out again! LOL
Looks impressive! Just wondering, does it make a mess on the drive? I see you’ve got a bit of carpeting near the front, but not directly underneath?
Thanks for watching and your comment, it doesn’t make any mess at all. The carpet was just for me and my knees 😂😂 it’s a clear liquid unlike traditional underseal products like WaxOil
So how did it hold up after a year?
It’s done well, it neutralised the rust so it didn’t get any worse. It’s Now ready for a re-application. This time I think I would do a better cosmetic job then apply Lanoguard to protect.
@@TypeRTweaks Thanks for the update. Yea I plan to wire brush, then use jenolite aerosol rust converter to get it all black, then lanoguard.
Hi mate where did you buy those ramps??
Got them from Amazon. Heavy Duty ramps with hydraulic lift. You can get the same ones without the option for the top plate to lift a little cheaper but I wanted to have the option.
How long does it last on a car
It last 12-18 months but you can keep applying year after year without removing etc just a power wash (so you don’t trap dirt into the new layer).
Cosmetically I wish the product wasn't transparent. Is there a way round that?
That’s the only downside, it means you would need to do some form of prep / painting underneath to give it a cosmetic look versus applying the waxoil underseal
I absolutely do not see it as a downside. I see it as an upside. I'd rather it is clear so you can see what's happening, than black and hiding trouble underneath. Each to their own! PS - I own a 2006 Honda Accord and plan on doing this job myself, like you've done, on a drive, with the car on axle stands.
Nice video! Looking at doing this myself and after watching this doesn't seem that hard! Just scared to look under mine, if I don't see it, its not there 😂.
That’s what I was thinking but had to bite the bullet. You definitely feel better after doing it
As grim jobs go this one is deffo up there! Something I need to tackle at some point 🙈 How's it holding up after the last few salty road weeks?
It’s been really good, held up really well. The beauty is you can jet wash it and apply more on top the following year. During the summer, I’m actually going to remove the coating and paint the underneath to restore it again before applying the Lanoguard again.
@@TypeRTweaks so if you jet wash normally it’ll remove the ‘lankguard’?
It only lasts a year?
It can last up to 18 months but it’s recommended to re-apply after a year to top up the existing protection ( not need to remove the previous application.
@@TypeRTweaks there are other products that can last for 5yrs or more. So I will be going with these. Thanks
@@fjaff this is better. Underseal is an awful product but last ‘5 years’. Does a horrible job, looks shit and doesn’t stop rust. Lanoguard is the best on the market for protecting your car.
It’s too late this needs to be done b4 it rusts, however that might prolong the corrosion 👍
who's be duke of hazzarding the civic?
2lb weight saving right there!! 🤣🤣👍 way cheaper than getting someone to do it professionally.
😂😂 definitely. A lot more work to do though. Power Tools make a huge difference and like you say, way cheaper than a garage. Time will tell if it was worth it 😂😂
Wax oil everytime
I like the look of Wax Oil and what it does, no-one really near me does it and I didn’t have the kit to do it
Fucking hell how is it so rusty
Unfortunately an Achilles heel of the FN2. Doesn’t look like mine had much protection previously
@@TypeRTweaks mines an 08 at 97k and looks nothing like that
I think mine has had a life by the sea 😂 how you enjoying yours?
Which ones
It's jap they all rust
isvthis a civic got that rusty. lucky me i have sold my ine ontime🤪🤣😂