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SNS 304 Part 1: Removing Broken Bolts, New Baldor Buffer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2020
- This week we have a double header. In part one I show the new Baldor buffer we purchased for the shop. Afterwards we get busy on a job removing broken bolts, and one broken tap. Follow up with part 2 as I dive into the Baldor for improvements, and we share some new shop organization tools.
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I just spotted the sticker on your green cabinet: "Real Fabricators Break Chinese Tools". Love it!
I did as well, and looked up the source. It comes from Burr King. They also sell a T-shirt.
Yea I got that from Burr King at Fabtech 👍🏻
@@Abom79, I went to their website and discovered they are giving them away free. Just send them a self addressed, stamped envelope. Heading to the mail box Monday morning. BTW, thanks for the great content.
All the old quality made tools are now made outside the USA 😞
Us fake fabricators have no problem breaking Chinese tools either lmao
I am old and in bad health. I used to work with steel. More of a jack of all trades, definitely not a machinist. I have a little mini lathe next to my desk now and make dies for swaging bullets. Just wanted to say...dude you are an absolute joy to watch. Thank you for sharing your skill and expertise. Back in the old days people wouldn't want to let anyone know their secrets. They made a person serve an apprentice ship if they wanted to learn. Thanks to generous people like you the secrets are available to everyone now. I'm sure you dad and granddad remember the days when a skilled tradesman wouldn't even let a stranger watch them work for worry that someone would steal their "tricks".
I really appreciate how you honor your father and grandfather. It is very apparent that they had a big impact on your life. The tenacity that you show in overcoming hard tasks is one of your best traits. Keep on making chips, I really enjoy your content.
I really like this old box from your grand dad, the patina on it really tells that it has a story and even more a family story. Good job on those broken screws. It reminds me that this morning I broke off a torx head screw on my diff flange. So now I have to remove the whole rear end, grind it so I can remove the axleshafts, weld something to it, and work them all loose. It never ends, but where would be the fun otherwise I guess :D
"when it burns like that it's locktite" those are the nuggets of experience you share with us that I love
Possibly loctite, it could also be any number of other things. Dried out lube burns like that too.
What I have success with on those Blue Point easy outs is use two wrenches on the deep driver nut opposed to each other then the torque doesn't push the easy out to one side...works for me.
There's something about broken tap/bolt extractions that I love, even though we all know how you feel about them. Thanks for sharing this project!
A tip I was shown a long time ago by one of my mentors when I was starting out as a mechanic. When using the Blue Point style extracors you used use 2 wrenches 90 degrees apart on the hex like a t handle that way you can push on one and pull the other it gives more even pressure and you won't have to fight the extractor to stay straight. Of course thus tip only applies when you have enough room for 2 wrenches some applications you won't have the room. I'll have to go through the 2 sets i have and see if I need any replacement pieces and put them on my next KBC order Thank You for the information that they carry them .
I use a similar method but the wrenches are 180° apart
@@giannirocco9099 You cant put two spanners at 180 deg on a nut
Washing taps and bolts out of stainless is a trick that seemed like literal black magic to me a long time ago. When I was working at a place named Avtec in the late 90's to early 2000's, I was in the shop working on a personal project. I was tapping the end of a piece of 304 stainless barstock in the lathe and snapped the tap off. Well I just gave up and got pissed b/c I had no more material and no idea how to get it out. One of the welders came over and asked me what was wrong and I told him. He said "Bring that over to the cutting table." I told him "This is stainless, what is a cutting torch going to do?!" He said "Do you want help or do you want to sit and be pissed?" He blasted that tap out in one shot of the oxygen lever and I was amazed and couldn't understand how or why that worked.
He told me:
Cutting with oxy/fuel works not by the flame melting through the metal, the flame is just to get the metal melted. The oxygen boost then ignites the carbon in the steel causing it to burn and then blast through the rest of the metal. Thats why oxy/fuel cutting doesn't work on stainless, only metals with carbon in them. So, you use the fact that the tap is very very high carbon and that stainless will be left relatively untouched by the oxygen to "wash" the carbon steel out of the stainless with the oxygen. Once you do it enough, you can get very very good at it and use it very strategically.
I've never seen it use to that affect, in a precision way, until just now, in this video. Very nice!!!!
Complete and literal black magic to me at the time and it still amazes to to this day!!!
Thanks for that explantion
Absolutely, although I appreciate the high tech explanation of what’s going on. I was watching at the carbon steel was being washed out, but also the tube was quickly heating up. I was Agra’s I was going to Melt right through it! It works pretty slick though 👍🏻
It's actually the iron that is burning:
From: sa.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Expert-Advice/tech-tips/theory-of-oxy-fuel-gas-cutting.aspx
"As the oxygen chemically combines with the iron exothermically (exothermic reaction), ... [it] starts a rapid oxidation of the steel through the depth of the cut. A tremendous amount of heat is liberated when the high purity oxygen unites with the steel during this reaction."
From the same site:
"The various alloy elements found in steel affect the ability of the oxygen to cut the metal.... elements such as chromium, nickel, molybdenum, and carbon generally reduce the ability of oxygen to sever the material ..."
Note two things: 1) chromium and nickle, usually present in significant quantities in SS, both limit the burning of the SS. 2) High carbon levels actually make it harder to flame cut steel, not easier.
From a second source:
"www.esabna.com/literature/gas%20apparatus/miscellaneous/oxy-fuel_cutting_quality_0558006464.pdf"
"Only metals whose oxides have a lower melting point than the base metal itself can be cut with
this process. Otherwise as soon as the metal oxidizes it terminates the oxidation by forming a
protective crust."
I suspect -- but I couldn't confirm with a quick Google search -- that the chromium and nickle in SS form high melting point oxides that prevent the iron in the SS from burning easily.
You know you effed up when Adam whistles at your effort.
Mr Booth - thank you for keeping your language/videos clean. It is refreshing to say the least - and it shows, among other things, you have a large vocabulary, and it makes your videos family-friendly. THANK YOU for that!
Wise choice on going with the slower speed for the wire wheels. I've over spun them several times before and when you're done, you'll feel like you've been in a fight with a porcupine.
Great Job as usual! Adam, I have been watching you for many years and I have to say I am disappointed in your comment about the owner trying to get the bolt out himself. I am a regular home owner just like this guy probably is. I WOULDN'T be a home owner if every time something broke I paid a professional to fix it. He gave it a try! Now he hopefully knows his limitations or he will learn by his mistakes. The American farmer, who I admire, knows how to do everything. He learns to do most things because he has to. (of course with in limits) Never criticize a man willing to try! That's what you are there for, to pull us out of the whole. Just as a side note: It's hard to find a professional willing to do small work like this. Years ago they would do this stuff for free.
I always learn something when I watch your show :-). Thanks for educating us!
Mr Booth - you are a persistent man: never say never, and never give up. Great qualities in a person - I admire that.
I was an auto technician for over 20 years and used the same parallel sided extractor set (and the drill guides are priceless!!). broken bolts were my side hustle for making extra money. other techs didn't want to fix their own bolts, so I did with mostly that set and access to an oxy/acetylene rig. I got paid well for my effort. I don't work on cars anymore, but I was able to extract every bolt that I tried to.
Great video and nice save of those pool rails. One word of warning when using stainless steel bolts, it’s worth using never seize instead of loctite because if stainless steel fittings are tightened up together real hard the stainless has a bad habitat of gauling or pulling the threads and they will never come loose. My sons install stainless fittings to buildings and they bring home tons of scrap for me to pull apart for scrapping. I have had a lot of the bolts bind up and I have to resort to the grinder as there is no saving them. The threads are totally stuffed. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
If those rails and flanges are # 304/316 stainless steel, and the broken bolts are steel, like the broken tap is, just leave the ends immersed overnight in neat nitric acid. All the carbon steel will be dissolved away by the next morning. Just do it in a well ventilated area outside. Plus the added benefit is you won’t have the overheated ends to re-polish. I have often used nitric acid to dissolve HSS taps broken off in deep holes in stainless steel.
Did you ever work in the electroplating industry? We used to do that quite often for customers or anodise aluminium parts to get out broken drills or taps.
Baldor grinders and buffers are ABSOLUTELY one of the most beautiful and useful tools you can buy. Made in America and top quality. You will hand it down for generations, serious machinists only please.
Reminds me of the ol' comedy shop sign: "Hourly rates $50 standard, $75 if you watch, $100 if you comment, $150 if you tried to fix it first and couldn't"
I have one of those signs in my shop. It’s in plain sight. I love the looks and comments it gets.
More than once, when I was in the Pipefitters union, I had to repair handyman screwups. Dangerous when working on natural gas lines. Once found a water heater installed by hubby; every pipe joint leaking. Wife told me to take my time; wanted to show her hubby that he didn't know everything! Cost him a lot more than hiring a professional. Thanks
Im very impressed with you're surgical use of the gas axe, top work all round!
Adam, Great work. I sold Snap-on Tools for 15 years. The extractors are the best, they were sold under Blue Point name brand, but were made by Ridged tool co. Thanks for the channel, You should be a teacher in a Vo-tech school . But getting paid lot's of money. Les.
Thanks Leslie 👍🏻
You have a lot of experience and, as usual, its a pleasure to watch a pro in action regardless of the job as you can tap into your vast wealth of knowledge.
Out of all your videos, I like these repairs of broken off bolts or studs in stuff the best. Or even the really bad ones that need over bored and a thread incert installed. You have shown me a few tricks. And your point about "STOP, Before you make it worse" And take it to someone that has the proper skills and tools to fix it right. Because in the long run it will probably be cheaper. Thanks for the great content and keep showing us how easy things can be fixed if you just slow down and do it the right way, With the right tools.
I did a similar "favor" for a neighbor. 5 broken bolts in a backyard fountain. I had no intention of charging him, but he insisted that he wanted to pay me "for my time". when I suggested $75 seemed fair, he laughed and told me that had he known that, he would have drilled them out and replaced them with new inserts himself.
I never wanted his money, and $75 hardly covered my time. but I did expect some respect at a minimum.
"A tap broken off ... Isn't that nice." lol, I love it. One of my most hated things. I've decided the best solution to this problem is to never break a tap off in something. Saves a hell of a lot of time and effort. It will make you a hell of a lot more careful doing a few extractions. I must admire Adam with his calm demeanor. If this was my video nearly half of it would be swearing and getting pissed.
I always enjoy feeling your enthusiasm and joy when you get a new piece of equipment, whether new or used. I'm a retired electrical engineer but your channel makes me wish I would have taken more mechanical courses.
Having the tools in one thing. Having the knowledge is another. Having patience is the most important part!
To prevent the easy out from tilting, use 2 wrenches 180 degrees apart.
That is exactly what I was going to post. I've used that style extractor quite a bit.
You are much less likely to snap the extractor using two wrenches, especially with the smaller sizes. If you look at the Rigid pieces, you can see they have two separate sets of wrench flats on the nut with a groove between them.Thank you, Adam, for letting us know that KBC sells the Rigid extractors individually as it took me a few snapped posts before I figured out the two wrench method, I had been looking for them unsuccessfully and the Chinese knock-offs are junk.
Is it possible to use tap wrench altough it is for square tools ?
@@karirautio it wouldn't really be the right tool. The extractor that gets tapped into the hole is a splined hex shape.
That's some serious skills there, blowing out a broken tap. They don't teach this stuff in high school.
Hi Adam, One of the things I love about your channel is how when something works, like removing the bolt, you're as excited as a little kid after his first pony ride. Love it. Be well & Best regards, Gottfried
That was a masterful display of skills fixing those broken bolts. I wasn't so sure it was going to happen! NICE work.
Best bolt extractors made!!!
Abom, your Dad’s grinder might be repairable, could be a capacitor in the bottom mount that’s blown, so you just need to replace it.
In the mid 90's I worked for an electric motor shop/ Baldor distributor. When the shop closed in '97 I bought the pedestal grinder we used every day. I use it several times a week and it runs like a champ. Never had a problem with it.
I have the same extractor set, and i always hit it with the hammer when unscrewing at the same time, helps a lot, impacts shift the threads slightmy enough to unscrew. And nice video as always !
Adam next time you use the Ridged easy outs use two wrenches 90* apart like a tap wrench the easy out won’t twist over and the bolt will come out faster.
That's what I was thinking-!!
That’s how I extract, the same way I tap.
“Hey man” jobs lol! Gotta love it! Ever since they put the road through in front of my personal “not for hire” shop, I get this at least once a week. They see my over there tinkering with whatever and stop. Can you weld this, can you powdercoat this, on and on. Yep I can, for $200hr. I’m not here to rip anyone off and am happy to help people out, but this equipment isn’t cheap and if I’m going to put wear and tear on my personal equipment you better believe I’m going to charge a premium and you should too.
Years ago when I was doing leather work, I did the same thing. Backfired once when I quoted a high price for a custom purse; next day I had half of the $ in PayPal! Was a challenge!
John Boyd. Ya it is a challenge knowing what to charge when you don’t do it everyday and really have no idea what the market is. The way I look at it is, I have millions of dollars in tools and they can either pay what I feel it’s worth to use them or they can go buy what they need themselves. Certainly not trying to be a dick (which most people think because they expect a “buddy” price because I’m not an actual business) and don’t just try and bend anyone over, but I am certainly going to make it worth the wear and tear on my tools.
Great point on the welding only working sometimes. Usually you only hear about the thing someone tried that worked, not the five things that didn’t.
Anyone who does repairs will encounter broken bolts. Thanks Abom79 for the very informative video which shows different approaches to the problem, performed by someone with a lot of experience!
so pleased to see you using the best type of stud exractor and not those useless LH taper things (Y)
Don't toss your old man's grinder/buffer, it's most likely easily repairable. It probably stopped running because the start/run capacitor(s) failed. If it's that green one you use in your videos for grinding tool bits, it looks like this is what the case is. The last several videos I've seen you using it, the motor starts up really slowly, which can be an indication of a failed start/run capacitor. A motor can run quite awhile on a bad capacitor, but once it gets bad enough, the motor won't start anymore because the magnetic fields aren't offset to get that tumbling motion started.
The capacitor for the motor is usually hidden inside the base under the motor and behind the switch, so some disassembly is required to get at it. You may want to replace the switch as well because the contacts arc over time and can become resistive enough to cause run problems as well.
Great job Adam. Always hate fixing something others tried and made bigger problem than if they just took it to shop and get done right from get go
Adam, I've always liked how you say "We got it done" or "we're going to do this or that". Its like us viewers are part of the job. Nice touch.
I love the sticker on the green cabinet that says " CANCER SUCKS"!! I'm a stage 4 Colon Cancer patient and I can honestly say that CANCER SUCKS!!!!!
Randy Daye Could not agree more with you Randy. I sincerely and genuinely, hope and pray that we can hear you someday say you’re a cancer survivor. Godspeed on your fight with colon cancer. You’ll be in my prayers.
Whipple
Awesome buffer. I have the 333B. 👍👊
RetroWeld A lil bigger, ofcourse. Otherwise the comment never existed, LOL
Excellent! I like that you showed the extractor set and all the parts and pieces that make work. Three times on the welding the washer to the bolt shows a lot of patience.
Extraction is always very pleasing! This is such a wholesome channel.
I’ll rephrase that. Extraction is always very satisfying!
That’s the kind of guy Adam is: takes on a job he doesn’t want or need to do just because he wants to help someone out.
Z06Doc agreed. It’s also a sharpening of ones skills. Great guy indeed
Adam is a top bloke, but let's not forget, it also makes great YT content :)
Buff em up with the new Baldor.
Love your work Abom. Be careful when heating stainless that hot that you don’t get carbide precipitation (it’s chromium-rich) so it may get rust marks in the future. Hope this helps everyone. Peace and all the best.
That's one of the great things about being in a generational family business. You are holding on to some relics in damn good condition that few know about or remember.
Am i the only one whos thinking to use soft jaws on the vise and two wrenches to keep the balance?
I work on computers for a living. I can’t count the times I’ve had a customer turn a twenty minute job into a 8 hour job. However, I just call it job security.
Adam, you Sir are a fine person as well as a master machinist. Your videos are entertaining and educational, keep ‘em coming.
I love my blue point bolt extractors, I’ve been using them for 45 yrs!
thumbs up if you heard "Tappy Tap Tap" in your head at 18:38 lmao
I burned my forearms twice just watching you.
I have been doing this type of work for years and I know how you feel when something seems almost impossible, well done!
Lovely job! I love it when people repair stuff instead of throwing it away.
I have a set identical to that but in a red plastic case from Snap-On. They are excellent.
Add those to your bag of extractions! I need a neighbor/buddy like you! I'd even buy the beer/steaks/materials/etc. Let me know when you want to move to WV lol
Steaks And Prime Ribeyes are currency around here
I really enjoy watching your work. I especially appreciate the info you give on your tools and materials.
I admire your patience as well as your skills.
Seized / sheared bolts difficult to get out? Welcome to the wonderful world of auto mechanics!
I can't be the only one that thought that the Baldor Buffer was going to tackle the heat discoloration.
You don't give-up. That's for sure. I wouldn't want you after me. Thank you! Watching you work is a privilege.
Adam I am glad to see you have the patient's to be persistent and have passed along your helping explain the right way and the wrong way, I messed up something so bad when I was young and then by the time I was 17 I was doing it the way you showed, GREAT JOB
What you said about customers trying to drill bolts out, reminded me of a couple that are customers of mine. A couple months ago they came to me with a hole that they had drilled, through a water jacket in their engine block, while trying to drill a broken exhaust manifold bolt out. Wanna know the best part? Guess what they told me on the phone... “just a quick weld repair 15 minutes or less”.. I chuckled, as I’ve probably heard this a thousand times at this point. They proceeded to tell me how bad they needed it fixed (you know the usual “I’ve been without it for a week but for some reason can’t live without it for another minute” “it needs to be done NOW”) so I said bring it down I’ll take a look, NO PROMISES tho. Boy did I still regret even that.. what was previously a M8-1.25 tapped hole, about 32mm deep, with a broken bolt in it. Was now about a 5/8”-3/4” hole (it was wallerd right out) 2.5” deep before going through a water jacket... needless to say they got the broken bolt out, just took a small portion of the block with it... I tried my damndest not to laugh. Trying to be somewhat respectful remembering these folks actually thought that this was fixable, & with no problem at that. Probably also needless to say they weren’t very happy when I told them there was absolutely nothing I or likely anyone else could do.. then even more unhappy when I told them I would have been able to fix it no problem If they just hadn’t touched it. Folks always love that part.
Great story, thanks for the share! 👍🏻 I’ve seen my share of problems like that. The best is when they say “take ya 10 minutes tops!!” 🤦🏼♂️
Absolutely! Oh yeah gotta love it
Buffy the Tarnish Slayer
Gould and Eberhardt shirt ....I grew up in Irvington NJ and lived there until 1962. Many industrial type companies in Newark and Irvington and other towns in the area. My father worked for Thomas A Edison Industries, West Orange. I love your videos, you’re a very talented machinist. !
Professional armchair quarterback here: try flipping your wrench over so the offset from the box end faces towards the fastener you are removing when you have the clearance to do so. It transmits force inline with the opposing friction and prevents the extractor from kicking over, I used to do something similar with flex head ratchets at my last job so that I didn't have to worry about the socket jumping off. Glad to see an extremely experienced machinist who can still explain what they are doing in a way anyone can understand, I'm looking forward to SNS1000.
Stainless steel treads and bolts is always a pain in the ass
Willem Streutgers
Yep 99% forget the lube to prevent galling
Project Farm needs to test more extractors!
I'm sure these kinds of jobs must be a pain in the ass, but there is just something to them!! I never get tired of watching them, thanks for sharing Adam and take care!!!
Adam, I enjoy your videos, what you do is very similar to what I do in my job daily. I have been a maintenance machinist for 13 1/2 years. I repair and fab parts that you can't just call someone up and order a new one.I don't feel I would like a "production" machinist job. If I have to make more than 10 pieces of something I get frustrated. Those bolt extractors do work well. The machinist that trained me (40 years experience), used to take dull and chipped taps and hand grind a square taper on them and use them for bolt extractors. To this day I haven't found anything that works better. Keep the great videos coming. Stay safe.
I feel that taps would be too brittle to rely on using them for bolt extractors, not saying they don’t work.
@@Abom79 Next time you chip a tap, grind one down to a taper square and try it. You will be surprised. I work with 20 millwrights, I can't keep them in my box, they take them all the time.
this is the type of service that takes away anybody's patience
Those straight splined extractors are the ONLY type to use!!!!!
RIDGID 35585
Best machining channel on TH-cam. Abom my man, you are killing it with the content! Keep up the good work.
Thank you! 👍🏻
After watching this side of youtube for a while I have come to a realization and that is that there three main personalities that I watch and they all fill a specific persona.
Abom79: Caring older brother that teaches you step by step and is great at explaining stuff.
AvE: Your favorite uncle that would come home with all kinda of cool stuff, a bit on the cranky side but still fun to be around.(9/10 times would start a conversation with ' don't tell your mom but check this out....'
ToT: The eternal dad.
Amen.
Send the old machine that gave up the ghost to one of those Rebuilt/Renovation youtuber maybe ?
Hello Adam. Your Grandfather's screw extractor set is cool. would you consider buffing the case up all nice?
Very satisfying seeing the last bolt finally give up. Nice work.
That type of extractors are the best. I have a snap-on version that has worked extremely well for me over the years.
please use copper or even brass bolts! to often stainley and stainley welds together :)
Banke Andersen For a hand railing!? Those will break right off. Liability. No, stainless just with a good amount of anti seize.
...that is known to "seizing"!!
@@susanbarbier5053 ...dissimilar metals in the presence of water- ever heard of bi-metallic corrosion?!!
Normally you would hand the fixed items back cleaned and showing no signs of your magic on them. Did you leave the heat marks as a sign of defiance?
Thanks for sharing 👍
Hats off too you for using the "right tools"! That screw extractor kit is by far the best! It puts almost no outward pressure on the bolt when trying to remove it. the rest,all push out as you drive them in which compounds the problem! Also,bee's wax is incredible as a penetration lubricant! I've done literally hundreds of turbo studs on big diesels over my years and those tools plus Bee's wax is by far the best way. Not always possible, but where you can do it, it's the best!
Bill K x2 on the bees wax, and just a little heat to draw it in...it works.
@Tom McKenzie Still ,practicing here, When I get to be an expert, it's time to retire! nothing left to learn thus, nothing left to give!
Stuff like this, there really is no "right way" to repair it. There is "what works"! and that's most important! This guy is showing you the most experienced way of doing it, and as he said, nothing works 100% of the time! Other than, patience, and perseverance! Those two by themselves get everything done!
@@OldtimeIronman That's the secret, bee's wax, draws in! Everything else runs away!
It's awesome that you're still using your grandpa tools
Ill click on any video that includes removing broken bolts :)
Surprised you didn't use that brand new Baldor to polish that 316ss tube back to new after heating...
Love the old Grandpa tools. The oldies are usually goodies and the family history just makes them special.
Great you could replace a missing piece as well.
Don’t forget to have kids :)
Hey Adam, another great video, and excellent demonstration of those extractors. They are nice they don't get as mangled or broke like the EZ out . Nothing like removing a "rookied" bolt, cheers!
I gotta ask: isn't it more economical to buy new pool rail tubes rather than have a machinist spend their time trying to repair them? Obviously I have no clue as to how much the material costs or how much a good machinist charges. Thanks Adam and others
I believe he charges $70 an hour. I couldn't find those exact rails but i would estimate they are $100 each. If they are not made anymore or can't locate new ones it could be why they had them repaired
Heating up stainless red hot makes it not stainless anymore. You probably ruined those rails.
Not to mention knurl marks from vise where your hands ride.
Samuel Taylor ....This is a good point. The surfaces can and should be chemically passivated before reinstallation. The chlorine in pool water will accelerate corrosion in a short amount of time if the surfaces are left as is.
Yep, those are junk now. Will corrode in the heat affected zone real quick.
Adam in an application like that I saw you heating and I was waiting for the water 💦 but it didn’t come. I was a mechanic working mostly on farm equipment and used the quick quench for years with amazing results! You have to try it. I would have had a pail of cold water waiting and just drop it in . Spray some PB Blaster on it use the back and forth and out it comes! I rarely ever drill and use an easy out. Yes weld washer then nut heat quench remove! I love watching your videos. I’m an very novice with my old 15” LeBlond 40’s lathe and 11” Logan. And I have a BridgePort with a factory installed single phase 120 volt motor. I watched your video on making the cross feed nut for LeBond. Mine looks just like it. Thanks again!
Nice job. My grandfather gave me his tool boxes and I also have that exact same extractor kit. I have used them myself. Cool to see tools from the '40s and '50s still get the job done.
Stainless steel bolts in a stainless threaded hole? Is a recipe for cold welding.
Sixta16 I learned that the hard way
Not if you slobber them in copper based antiseize.
Honest question. Were you not concerned with scratches from the vise?
Welding is my go to for those. If it breaks off weld again. Sometimes welding 5 or 6 times on one fastener is required. Welding works when extractors don't. The repeated heating and cooling of the parts is what makes it loosen up. Also the first weld two is often porous from impurities. Repeated welding burns them out. Sometimes it doesn't work like the last one a 6mm brittle bolt in a honda dirt bike engine. It was locked into the magnesium case. Had to drill all the way through and helicoil it. Wish I had a milling machine for that.
You are going to like the slower speed on the buffer it's great when cleaning smaller parts with the wire wheel. It's also nice for the deburring wheel.