How much thick oil can be added? I ask because I need my damper to work with more resistance, but I know that if I give too thick oil I can damage it. The second question: is it possible to unscrew it only on one side to pour out the old oil and pour in the new one? If so, from which side to unscrew?
@@drillnbass It would be best check with the manufacturer but for this I stuck with the one I used in the video. I am sure you could use a thicker oil. Even if yours is maxed out its still too soft? There might be another issue you have 🤔
Hello i have a question, when you look on the top of the stering dumper you will see the adjusting buton, but what is this at front of it. You have a litlle Awan wrench screw when you push it it goes inside and it looks like you pump it or somthing. My question is what is the propose of it?I have the same demper on my Blade GT Electric scooter And i pumps it every time before i go outside for a ride. 👌🏻😅 Btw i hear from someone is just for releases the pressure inside of the chamber. Is that true?
Hey, nice video man. I had my FXCNC Racing Steering Damper (same model as your own on the video). I can't turn the preload (the switch where I can go to soft or hard of the damper). Do you have any solution, please? Thank You!
Hey thanks Iskander! Is it that the switch is no longer working? Or if is just not moving it may be that it is seized, I would dismantle it and add some lubricant to the mechanism 👍👍
So there is only one bolt that mounts through the tank mounting bolt and that is the lower of the 2 you see at the start of the video. The upper bolt only mounts the damper body onto the bracket below it, which is part of the assembly. I can see you some pics if you need them.
@@IrishMotoringLife could you please (guccicucci300 @ outlook com) theres three holes on the bracket but the bottom one is way bigger is that the hole you mount the bracket .
@@paulbaymiller7463 hi Paul, I went to a local bearing supplier and he has e everything on the shelf. Perhaps a hydraulics place would also stock them, safest thing to do is let them measure them for you
All those came from a hydraulics and bearing supplier near where I live. There is a size printer on them and the guys used a vernier calipers to confirm the spec 👍
@@IrishMotoringLife hey thanks for getting back to me. i ended up using some info from your video and bought Lucas 5w15 Fork Oil. The reason i needed to fix the damper is because i did know white lithium grease was bad for it and when I lubed the shaft, some got inside (a very small amount) and ruined the oil, causing my damper to have little to no dampening effect. thanks to your video taking it apart and understanding what i was doing was easier. i had to re-build it twice, because even thought I did a good job cleaning it the first time, micro amounts of lithium grased remained and ruined the oil again. i had to take every seal off, degrease them, and everything else as well. I used Lucas red grease for the clicky part. after the second re-build, it worked but after a bit of use i could hear swishing noise - air inside. took cap off and topped it off, and that was it. since then its worked without swishing sound and is better than when it was new because the Lucas oil is better oil than whatever came with it. Thanks again.
When I removed them I took them to a local seals/bearing shop. Or a pneumatic shop should be able to help you also. If your one is a branded item, the manufacturer may fo a rebuild kit but that could be costly in comparison to a local seal shop. I'm very happy rebuilt this for the experience alone.
Well, that's not how it works where I live, there's not that many facilities, I can find regular mechanic shops, but nothing too specialized. I was hoping I could buy those seals on the internet or something like that. But thank you so much for your response :) Also, mine seems to be a generic item (haven't seen it in detail to see if it's branded, but I know it's exactly the same as yours)
@@aneudysc that's a pity, I am sure there would be stores online that would supply them, even if they aren't on their website. From what I understand they are pretty generic and mass produced seals so should be easy to get a hold of online. I've also learned that even branded ones fail after a period, I guess it also comes down to the quality of roads and amount of use they get!
have similar damper, but it have somekind static force. Damper is new, but its ebay style. When i want to pull it, it feels sticking, but once it moves - it moves correctly. And there is bubling sound from inside. Is it normal or i should rebuild that damper ?
Have you tried adjusting it to fully soft and then hard again to see if there is any improvement? Unless it is leaking it shouldn't need a rebuild. There may be some noise for a bit when new to wear it in a bit first. 🤔
@@sinatragede ah OK this may be an issue, the inertia created by the "weight" of the steering on the motorcycle would be different to what you expect with a simulation
Hi Zivko, angle the damper so thr bubbles can move to the top like in the video, the repeated moving the centre shaft in and out of the damper body then allows the air to be worked out 👍
It's one of those generic eBay / Amazon unbranded dampers but based on brand Hyperpro model 👍 not my first choice but I didnt have the budget to spend 500+ on one, this lasted longer than I expected
@@IrishMotoringLife mine was gathering dust for a year, but then started to leak in about month of service... I need to change the seals. What size are those, did you notice?
@@IrishMotoringLife at least the HyperPro contains nitrogen. "Nitrogen pressurized heat expansion reservoir - Gas pressure prevents against foaming." From what I understand the Chinese clones can hold nitrogen as well, but whether they are prefilled or not, I don't know. When my clone was serviced, there was no gas in the chamber, but it held tight when nitrogen was pumped into the chamber.
@@sniglom great to know that thanks for sharing! I would imagine this clone didn't hold anyway nitrogen, the entire thing appeared to be oil only. I've since had to replace it as the corroded shaft wore the new neals after extended use. Oddly the new clone one I have hasn't rusted one bit and it's seen lots of rain!
@@sniglom my favourite quote is "buy cheap, buy twice" this was a test of the cheap clone, to be honest I would also find it hard to justify a 700euro damper for a 3k motorcycle when a clone is 30euro and replacement shaft is less again
@@IrishMotoringLife I'm having fun with the clones myself. I think it's a good way to get a feeling for a product. I mean, if I'm ever to buy a 700 euro damper, i want to get what it's about first.
Hi :). I've got the same steering dumper and i am planning to rebuild it too. Do you have maybe a list with dimension off the seals so i could buy the ahead? That would be nice but i doubt you still have that :D.
I'm afraid I don't have them written down but I know have the old seals somewhere, just need to locate them! If you can, id advise to remove your seals and bring them to a store..it might work out cheaper than online! Once i find the old seals i'll post the sizes here. 👍👍
@@sniglom hi, I actually did come across them somewhere random in my garage when I was moving stuff around and now I can recall where I left them as the garage is in a mess. Working on tidying over the next few evenings so I'll respond when I find them again. Do you have this steering damper?
@@IrishMotoringLife yes I do. A guy recently helped me change oil and add gas, but he didn't have seals in the correct size, so I'm still using the old ones.
Good job if you have time to kill. Repair kit, oil and my own man hour would certainly cost more than $30, which is the new replacement damper price. Shaft is corroded and already compromised, it will damage the seals again pretty quickly.
You are right, I tend not to take in man hours as I see it as experience and learning a new skill. Sure, the price of the new shaft was around €40 but I wanted to try rebuilding this too 🙂 the corrosion is just beyond where the seals touch but I would imagine it will only get worse. I always say, "buy cheap, buy twice"
@@IrishMotoringLife, I expect to replace these every two years or so. Even the expensive ones are recommended to be returned for service every year, so, no surprises there. These are still way cheaper than overpriced dampers.
@@ErickNagy that's interesting to hear, I had expected the genuine ones to last longer than that. I certainly agree they are crazy overpriced for what they are. I did also purchase a spare cheap damper recently, just thr body as I expected this one wont last for a long time. It must have 8k miles done which is good.
The HyperPro damper has a 1 bar gas charge and without that charge it will cavitate and not work when it will be needed. You are not strong enough to cause the cavitation manually. The final fill must be through the reservoir then bladder/piston, c-clip, cap and charge to 1 bar , finished.
@@IrishMotoringLife no, stiction. That’s where it takes more force to start moving it than is needed to keep moving it. That breakaway force can’t be fixed by adjusting the damping force, and as you have taken one apart was hoping you might have an idea, I’ve got two of these for other uses but both have this issue.
@@WhiteHawk77 ah OK I understand now. I haven't noticed this with mine but it could potentially benefit from a thicker oil. If the main shaft is clean and not damaged I would try some lubrication on there. It shouldn't have issues like that but some lubrication should help with initial resistance
@@WhiteHawk77 have you tried applying grease where the seal touches the shaft? Usually done on misbehaving motorcycle forks while replacing fork oil seals, works great on them, i assume it would on this too. Since this is similar, just smaller.
Hi Christiano, i think it would be difficult to source and might be cheaper to purchase a replacement damper on ebay minus the fitting kit, they are pretty cheap without the fitting kit.
Been testing this out the past few weeks and it seems ok so far! If anyone has any questions or comments, feel free :)
How much thick oil can be added? I ask because I need my damper to work with more resistance, but I know that if I give too thick oil I can damage it. The second question: is it possible to unscrew it only on one side to pour out the old oil and pour in the new one? If so, from which side to unscrew?
@@drillnbass It would be best check with the manufacturer but for this I stuck with the one I used in the video. I am sure you could use a thicker oil. Even if yours is maxed out its still too soft? There might be another issue you have 🤔
Hello i have a question, when you look on the top of the stering dumper you will see the adjusting buton, but what is this at front of it. You have a litlle Awan wrench screw when you push it it goes inside and it looks like you pump it or somthing.
My question is what is the propose of it?I have the same demper on my Blade GT Electric scooter
And i pumps it every time before i go outside for a ride. 👌🏻😅
Btw i hear from someone is just for releases the pressure inside of the chamber.
Is that true?
2:10 mine like this is stuck inside the tube. How to remove it?
Is it the shaft that is stuck? It should slide out and have no friction
@@IrishMotoringLife yes but I solved it by just forcefully pumping it and it goes out with a sound of it meaning it was stuck all along
@@archravenineteenseventeen that's great to hear, sounds like it was a tight fit!
do you have any maintenance tips so i won't rust?
Hi , there is a fantastic product called ACF-50 that really works well on motorcycles
Hey, nice video man. I had my FXCNC Racing Steering Damper (same model as your own on the video). I can't turn the preload (the switch where I can go to soft or hard of the damper). Do you have any solution, please? Thank You!
Hey thanks Iskander! Is it that the switch is no longer working? Or if is just not moving it may be that it is seized, I would dismantle it and add some lubricant to the mechanism 👍👍
I have a 05 636 and got the same dampener but can't figure how to mount it to the upper bolt on the tank
So there is only one bolt that mounts through the tank mounting bolt and that is the lower of the 2 you see at the start of the video. The upper bolt only mounts the damper body onto the bracket below it, which is part of the assembly. I can see you some pics if you need them.
@@IrishMotoringLife could you please (guccicucci300 @ outlook com) theres three holes on the bracket but the bottom one is way bigger is that the hole you mount the bracket .
@@salvatore2164 just sent 3 pics to that address, hope it helps you get it fitted
Do you have a link or point me in the direction to get the replacement seals and parts. This is a great idea 🤙
@@paulbaymiller7463 hi Paul, I went to a local bearing supplier and he has e everything on the shelf. Perhaps a hydraulics place would also stock them, safest thing to do is let them measure them for you
Where did you source the larger seals. I have only rings but the rubber bushings is what I'm curious about.
All those came from a hydraulics and bearing supplier near where I live. There is a size printer on them and the guys used a vernier calipers to confirm the spec 👍
what kind of oil can you use? would 5w 30 motor oil work?
No unfortunately you can't use motor oil for this, you will need to use what they call fork oil. You local auto parts store may have some in stock.
@@IrishMotoringLife hey thanks for getting back to me. i ended up using some info from your video and bought Lucas 5w15 Fork Oil.
The reason i needed to fix the damper is because i did know white lithium grease was bad for it and when I lubed the shaft, some got inside (a very small amount) and ruined the oil, causing my damper to have little to no dampening effect.
thanks to your video taking it apart and understanding what i was doing was easier. i had to re-build it twice, because even thought I did a good job cleaning it the first time, micro amounts of lithium grased remained and ruined the oil again. i had to take every seal off, degrease them, and everything else as well. I used Lucas red grease for the clicky part.
after the second re-build, it worked but after a bit of use i could hear swishing noise - air inside. took cap off and topped it off, and that was it. since then its worked without swishing sound and is better than when it was new because the Lucas oil is better oil than whatever came with it.
Thanks again.
What about the pressurized nitrogen ???
Hi Bryan, no pressure nitrogen in this one?
This ain't a real hyperpro
What size is the oil seals??
@@chupilotv123 I'll have to check it if I can find the old seals, I believe I kept them for this purpose
My bike came with exactly one of those, can you tell me where to get the seals or the kit for this one? Mines is doing nothing and it's on a 996
When I removed them I took them to a local seals/bearing shop. Or a pneumatic shop should be able to help you also. If your one is a branded item, the manufacturer may fo a rebuild kit but that could be costly in comparison to a local seal shop. I'm very happy rebuilt this for the experience alone.
Well, that's not how it works where I live, there's not that many facilities, I can find regular mechanic shops, but nothing too specialized. I was hoping I could buy those seals on the internet or something like that. But thank you so much for your response :)
Also, mine seems to be a generic item (haven't seen it in detail to see if it's branded, but I know it's exactly the same as yours)
@@aneudysc that's a pity, I am sure there would be stores online that would supply them, even if they aren't on their website. From what I understand they are pretty generic and mass produced seals so should be easy to get a hold of online.
I've also learned that even branded ones fail after a period, I guess it also comes down to the quality of roads and amount of use they get!
Another great vid man, nice job. I'd nearly have a go at fixing my one if I still have it :D
Thanks man! Hope this one helps some people, the genuine ones are so expensive, couldn't just throw them away!
have similar damper, but it have somekind static force. Damper is new, but its ebay style. When i want to pull it, it feels sticking, but once it moves - it moves correctly. And there is bubling sound from inside. Is it normal or i should rebuild that damper ?
Have you tried adjusting it to fully soft and then hard again to see if there is any improvement? Unless it is leaking it shouldn't need a rebuild. There may be some noise for a bit when new to wear it in a bit first. 🤔
@@IrishMotoringLife I will try to use a bit, but i use it not on steering, but on some simulator pedals.
@@sinatragede ah OK this may be an issue, the inertia created by the "weight" of the steering on the motorcycle would be different to what you expect with a simulation
Nice job. How you get air bubbles out?
Hi Zivko, angle the damper so thr bubbles can move to the top like in the video, the repeated moving the centre shaft in and out of the damper body then allows the air to be worked out 👍
What brand is the steering damper?
It's one of those generic eBay / Amazon unbranded dampers but based on brand Hyperpro model 👍 not my first choice but I didnt have the budget to spend 500+ on one, this lasted longer than I expected
@@IrishMotoringLife mine was gathering dust for a year, but then started to leak in about month of service... I need to change the seals. What size are those, did you notice?
@@Balorng the seals were 16mm x 8mm I believe but you should have yours checked if you are rebuilding them. They could be a different size.
@@IrishMotoringLife 9
Hello. And what about the gas chamber where nitrogen is pumped?
Hi, this is oil only, no gas in this model, I don't know of any one that is made with gas actually?
@@IrishMotoringLife at least the HyperPro contains nitrogen.
"Nitrogen pressurized heat expansion reservoir - Gas pressure prevents against foaming."
From what I understand the Chinese clones can hold nitrogen as well, but whether they are prefilled or not, I don't know.
When my clone was serviced, there was no gas in the chamber, but it held tight when nitrogen was pumped into the chamber.
@@sniglom great to know that thanks for sharing! I would imagine this clone didn't hold anyway nitrogen, the entire thing appeared to be oil only. I've since had to replace it as the corroded shaft wore the new neals after extended use. Oddly the new clone one I have hasn't rusted one bit and it's seen lots of rain!
@@sniglom my favourite quote is "buy cheap, buy twice" this was a test of the cheap clone, to be honest I would also find it hard to justify a 700euro damper for a 3k motorcycle when a clone is 30euro and replacement shaft is less again
@@IrishMotoringLife I'm having fun with the clones myself. I think it's a good way to get a feeling for a product. I mean, if I'm ever to buy a 700 euro damper, i want to get what it's about first.
Hi :). I've got the same steering dumper and i am planning to rebuild it too. Do you have maybe a list with dimension off the seals so i could buy the ahead? That would be nice but i doubt you still have that :D.
I'm afraid I don't have them written down but I know have the old seals somewhere, just need to locate them! If you can, id advise to remove your seals and bring them to a store..it might work out cheaper than online! Once i find the old seals i'll post the sizes here. 👍👍
@@IrishMotoringLife did you ever find your old seals? I'm also curious about the sizes.
@@sniglom hi, I actually did come across them somewhere random in my garage when I was moving stuff around and now I can recall where I left them as the garage is in a mess. Working on tidying over the next few evenings so I'll respond when I find them again. Do you have this steering damper?
@@IrishMotoringLife yes I do. A guy recently helped me change oil and add gas, but he didn't have seals in the correct size, so I'm still using the old ones.
How many ml of oil did you fill?
I cant recall exactly but I bought a 250ml bottle and used only a small amount, I would say 50ml or a little more
Good job if you have time to kill. Repair kit, oil and my own man hour would certainly cost more than $30, which is the new replacement damper price. Shaft is corroded and already compromised, it will damage the seals again pretty quickly.
You are right, I tend not to take in man hours as I see it as experience and learning a new skill. Sure, the price of the new shaft was around €40 but I wanted to try rebuilding this too 🙂 the corrosion is just beyond where the seals touch but I would imagine it will only get worse. I always say, "buy cheap, buy twice"
@@IrishMotoringLife, I expect to replace these every two years or so. Even the expensive ones are recommended to be returned for service every year, so, no surprises there. These are still way cheaper than overpriced dampers.
@@ErickNagy that's interesting to hear, I had expected the genuine ones to last longer than that. I certainly agree they are crazy overpriced for what they are. I did also purchase a spare cheap damper recently, just thr body as I expected this one wont last for a long time. It must have 8k miles done which is good.
how do you bleed these?
Hi, the idea of submerging this into the fluid ensures that it is bled 👍 hope that makes sense
The HyperPro damper has a 1 bar gas charge and without that charge it will cavitate and not work when it will be needed. You are not strong enough to cause the cavitation manually. The final fill must be through the reservoir then bladder/piston, c-clip, cap and charge to 1 bar , finished.
Very interesting to read this thank you! Was not aware, I once rode a bike with a HyperPro and it was definitely superior to this ebay special one
Could You help me with the complete procedure for the real Hyperpro please, I am pretty stick to the nitrogen part. Thank you
Anyone know how to reduce stiction on these things?
Hi, do you mean friction? There dial adjuster, silver wheel, allows you to adjust this.
@@IrishMotoringLife no, stiction. That’s where it takes more force to start moving it than is needed to keep moving it. That breakaway force can’t be fixed by adjusting the damping force, and as you have taken one apart was hoping you might have an idea, I’ve got two of these for other uses but both have this issue.
@@WhiteHawk77 ah OK I understand now. I haven't noticed this with mine but it could potentially benefit from a thicker oil. If the main shaft is clean and not damaged I would try some lubrication on there. It shouldn't have issues like that but some lubrication should help with initial resistance
@@WhiteHawk77 have you tried applying grease where the seal touches the shaft? Usually done on misbehaving motorcycle forks while replacing fork oil seals, works great on them, i assume it would on this too. Since this is similar, just smaller.
Please wich oil is?
I didnt even see you put the small washers 😴🤔🤔
Don't worry there were no parts left over 😅
Hi guys, I'm lookin for a replacement internal tube of this damper. Any clue on where I can find such spare parts?
Hi Christiano, i think it would be difficult to source and might be cheaper to purchase a replacement damper on ebay minus the fitting kit, they are pretty cheap without the fitting kit.