Making the 150 000 V Stun Gun ft. ElectroBOOM
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2021
- DISCLAIMER : This is NOT a tutorial. High voltage can be LETHAL. Do not attempt to recreate anything you are about to see in this video. The model number and value of some of the components will be hidden.
In this video, we look at the evolution of my desperate attempts at making a powerful Stun Gun.
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I'm a simple guy.
I see Mehdi, I click.
bruh
I see electroboom
Same
@@mousagaminyt4946 that's mehdi
Your English is very surprising. I almost had no idea you were French
lol
He french?
🙀 I thought he was a British guy living in France!
Really good, he says alright a bit like someone from Gateshead/Newcastle
@@JameisonAus_TH-cam 23:37 an really frenchy Oh! Putain (oh fuck !) r
When his phone rang i thought: "it better be electroboom" aaand i was not disappointed.
Btw, your english is really good for a french, almost no accent and i wouldn't think you were from france when i heard you for the first time
Really good , like better than my own 🤜🤛
Yep
i thought he just lived there lol
he's French?
@@user-ej4eq5im4r well, nicolas salenc sounds french to me, and as another commenter pointed out, at 23:37 he says "oh, putain" (oh fck) someone living in france from somewhere else probably wouldn't say that
When he said single bridge rectifier electro boom's voice instantly poped in my mind saying "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" before to my surprise electo boom showed up in the video.
so im not the only one, electroboom said exactly what i wanted to say
Just seeing a bills montage of the final product would’ve been boring. Seeing all of your fails and iterations was epic! Thank you for sharing.
This guy just went through the entire history of engineering a taser.
First mosfet can be: IRFB4227. Diodes: 2CL82 5MA 30KV, White propilene capacitor probably about 0,01uF 8000VDC, the gas dischargue tube something between A7-H25X and A71-H55X... The final mosfets could be the IRFP4227 which are in TO-220 format and powerful with low gate chargue, or a more low resistance and powerful IRFB7534PBF. Zeners is OK 15V 0.5W, and resistors about 100-1K, depending of the tank circuit peak voltaje and the frecuency, in order to have as less as possible the risetime gate charge. and I personally recomend using TVS on sensitive componets. I will try the same just to have fun. Thanks Nicolas!
Not all hero's wear capes! Thank you!
where can I find them?
@@dammo3355on the internet.
jesus christ thank you so much
Love the Electroboom collab.
Now That's One Amazing Project. I Love The ElectroBoom Part. 😄😂
As an electrical engineering student with everything i need to recreate this 5 feet away from me, I thought "I should do that!" then i realized I'm terrified of anything higher than 12v. I shall proceed taserless.
Excellent pace and presentation, Nicolas, even the embedded JLC PCB ad was slick and unobtrusive.
Amazing explanation! With your knowledge, I'd love to see your take on a coilgun!
One other thing for the insulation you could have tried is applying multiple layers of insulating lacquer on each layer of your coil. I've done that before and as long as you are somewhat consistent applying these layers lacquer - > coil you get usable results. Great peoject btw, now im in for a beefy arclighter 😅
Ironically, messing about with a high-voltage generator module from Amazon, I've discovered that great big enormous scary white sparks won't even set a cigarette paper on fire. You can send the spark right through it (a few CM long, decent spark) and there's not even a mark.
My arc lighters both use a much smaller arc. It's also, interestingly, purple rather than white. I think it's lower power and higher frequency. "WEEEEEEEEEEM" rather than "SNAP! SNAP! SNAP!" Looks like there's a knack to setting stuff on fire, not every electric spark will do.
th-cam.com/users/shorts2-x3fDsOQG8
@@greenaum Just my non-professional guess: I'm willing to bet it's not that the arc isn't hot enough to light something on fire, but maybe instead that the material you are trying to light has tiny gaps in it and the arc is so thin that it might be simply passing through without ever making direct contact. Also would bet that cigarette paper is an even better insulator than air, which would explain why the arc might prefer traveling through those tiny gaps. Maybe if the paper was wet it would cause the arc to go directly through the paper instead of the air, but then of course it would *still* not ignite due to being wet.
I could be way off the mark here, but it feels like a hypothesis worth testing to me!
Mehdi: "I mean shouldn't you know all this stuff already. What are you? A mechanical engineer?"
Nick: "no. I dropped out"
Mehdi: "you need full bridge rectifier... full bridge."
Ok. Full bridge rectifier. 9:50: interesting conversation.
when i listen that time , i am fall down in ground and laughing loudly. it was good one.
T H E R E C T I F I E R 😈😈😈😈👻👻
No one going to mention he blurred the mosfets for some reason?
They irfz44 probly
Dude thank you so much! I've been trying to build a generator like that to PEF treat my food for some time. Your circuit is a great starting point, and now I'm not doomed to make all your mistakes. Thank you!
bro you blown up or not?
Thank you for including ElectroBOOM
It's a shame I didn't come across your channel earlier.
The video is stellar, keep it up!
ASTONISHING VIDEO! The knowledge level is extremely high! You're brilliant!
Really good work! How long did the whole process take you?
9:30 lol !!!! actually as soon as you said " puny single diode rectifier"
i remembered of Mehdi🤣 and that call killed me hahah
This was really good stuff. Incredibly informative. I’d just like to know a parts list or model info on the diodes and specs of the ferrite rods and hv capacitors. Experimenting with this sort of stuff is lots of fun. I’ve got a few ideas in mind and knowing some of the materials used would be fantastic
Nice try lmao
Particularly HV capacitors seem a right bugger to get hold of. Nobody sells them! I wonder if some concoction of aluminium foil and paper, wound into a spiral, would be practical? Maybe soak and pot in epoxy after. Or foil and plastic. You could even use cling film ("Saran wrap" for Americans"). Capacitance partly depends on the distance between the metal plates, closer is better. But closer also means less voltage resistance, it's easier to punch through a thin layer than a thicker one. Then there's the dielectric strength of the insulator. Simply, some materials are better, it's intrinsic to the material. Maybe TWO layers of cling film?
Thing is the stuff is so damn staticky it's almost impossibly to work with, you want nice orderly layers, no wrinkles. A press brake of many tons wouldn't help, it'd just squash up any wrinkles and ruin the result, tearing everything. Maybe if you used thicker plastic...
Maybe the professionals won the war on making caps decades ago... but there's just no marketplace for HV caps. I bet it's specialist suppliers with their own catalogues and high prices. Still, you can put ordinary caps in series, but you thereby lose a lot of capacitance.
Still, paper is cheap, so is foil. Might get myself a capacitance meter. Already got a high-volage supply to test voltage tolerance. Just have the insulator hanging over past the ends of the foil so there's nowhere to arc around. Be nice if you could squash it without breaking it but prob not. Maybe epoxy would increase the dielectric strength of the paper. Maybe, I dunno, WD40 would. Or light oil? Old microwave ovens have HV caps in them, but that's well in to the "unforgiving" end of experimenting, you don't get to make any mistakes at all with them.
@@legobuildingsrewiew7538lmao, hahaha, I want one too! 😂
💰💝💰💝💰⤵
th-cam.com/video/ifllgTA2pmY/w-d-xo.html":"
@@greenaum unless you don't mind very low capacitance and efficiency, using regular aluminium foil and paper won't cut it. Seeing as capacitance is based on surface area, the trick is to use as thin as possible metal foil for the capacitor plates, kitchen aluminium foil is much too thick in that case. Commercially they use a super thin aluminium foil which is bonded to plastic, or even metalised foil which is produced by electroplating plastic foil.
great work my man!!
Great video. The electroboon collab blew my mind
Holy cow... this is really cool!
That's what I said!
Nicely done, love the cross over with electroboom :D
For the how to avoid exploding the AVR question: from my experiments with automotive ignition coils. you'll wanna optically isolate the circuit to suppress the noise from traveling into the rails. however optical isolation will require power isolation too
Though there will also be an electromagnetic component of which I have no idea how to contend with
🤯😤😭😢🥺🤩we ⛽️ do it
Regarding optical isolation, can you get phototransistors for the right speed and power? I know, technically, _all_ transistors are phototransistors. All treated silicon is light sensitive, they just put them in dark containers to keep it out, or clear ones for the labelled opto parts. I wonder how fast one of those solid-state relays can switch? Really they're just a triac in a friendly box, with the input side driving an LED that sets off the output side.
I think speed is the important thing here, particularly switch-off speed to let the coil kick back quickly with it's back-EMF.
The "finished" version doesn't need a computer anyway, he was just doing that to test the parameters easily. Once they're known, you can do it in analogue. Even though coding an oscillator is easier than designing one!
How do you implement your opto isolation, Max?
th-cam.com/users/shorts2-x3fDsOQG8
Nicolas: I instantly figured out your problem with the MCU resetting. The resetting of the MCU is occuring do to very high voltage flyback from powering the inductive load. Make sure you place a flyback diode and/or bleed resistor around the coil. Guarantee it will help! Good work and awesome video!
Learned a lesson.
Thank you!
Finally, after several years, there is now another decent stun gun video on YT! Nice job Nicolas. Guessing you seen our vid too? More great info there... Thanks for the quality content bro!
He he of course!
@@NicolasSalencPBP Great Vid, but I want to make one where the output power is adjustable! How can I do that? Sounds like it would be a great YT Vid? I will use it to train BIG Dogs, so I want it adjustable power cuz a dogs tolerance varies from one dog to another!
@@kennyh5083 That's not training, that's just animal abuse.
Holy fuck, how has this not gone viral? Such good quality explanations and video
2 years ago
its going viral now lol@@noname-gh5rs
a new channel for my list of the betters channels about electricity 🔌 . love it
For a non-consuming HV switch with consistent trigger voltage, look at SIDACs and triacs which are used in gas igniter circuits for this purpose.
Love the full bridge rectifier bit
A very nice overview. Going through the design steps and all the failures shows the terrible path you went through!. But you ended up with a working design. Congrats!
Making stepper motor drives I had interference issues. I solved those optically isolating the control electronics from the noise generating parts of the circuit. Although with the high energy here there may be some air radiated noise too? Still a lot of noise gets transmitted through conductors. So galvanically isolate your sensitive control circuitry from the noise as a start.
Thanks for sharing, grounded metal enclosure for the nano.
Le niveau de qualite de cette production est incroyable, tu merite plus de vues ^^
th-cam.com/users/shorts2-x3fDsOQG8
Your English too
He should use optocupler between Arduino and Switching Fets and LC filter before both power supply to prevent spike to stop resetting the uC or preventing damage.
2 years later and still a great vid
Whoa. I am blown away by this project and your video - amazing. How long did you spend on this from start to finish?
C'EST TROP GIGA STYLÉ JE SUIS TROP FAN
@@ahmdabdallah5811 who tf are you
@@ahmdabdallah5811 No one wants to talk nor care about your religion in here. Peacefully, GTFO
Svenska tack?
th-cam.com/users/shorts2-x3fDsOQG8
Wat
This video could have been shorter by use of a ZVS circuit and flyback transformer. Two simple components found online. it's good to learn how to fail before success. Love the ElectroBoom part also!
That's exactly what he did use. A zvs driver, and a high frequency flyback transformer. Just not a pre built driver from ebay because it obviously wouldnt fit the enclosure.
Great channel, subbed and love your style brother.
You killed it man👍
Why is your camera so bland it looks like you’re in 1944 Berlin
Wrong settings?
Brother is in an amateur horror film
wompity wommp
To isolate the nano. I would say there is only one option. And it is to isolate it... completely. Power it from dedicated battery and transfer signal from it to power board through opto-isolator or signal gate transformer. And close it to all metal box of course.
I had all sorts of EMF problems making stepper drives. Optocouplers were the solution. That noise just comes right down the wires. It is like tuning into radio KAOS.
@@1pcfred This is why all of the large stepper motor drivers like TB6600 have optocouplers at all of their digital inputs.
@@TechBuild yes I figured it out on my own before the TB6600 existed. Although using optos causes other issues with timings. Optos that are commonly available are pretty slow. Which is why stepper drives have long setup and hold times. BTW TB6600s are not particularly large drives.
Excellent video with the maths amd explanations.
SUBSCRIBED!
I use optoisolators on ALL data lines going to microcontrollers that interface anything with potential EMI, such as motor windings, which can also induce similar spikes from collapsing fields.
Really informative and you have a great flow of narrating your progress. I wonder why did you blur the values of the components, pressumably resistors, next to the mosfets? They are visible unblurred in the shot just earlier of that :) EDIT: Oh, you scratched up the mosfets and blacked out the resistors too. I truly doubt why was that necessary, considering that it's pretty easy to know what parameters you need for that type of circuit you show.
ELECTROBOOM ELECTROBOOM
ELECTROBOOM ELECTROBOOM
I like your name.
dude ur awesome. I understood everything very well and enjoyed the vid. keep up the good work. u earned another subscriber
good you understand the whole process is pretty redundant considering he didn't say the output,,, meaning its shaky at best at what its suppose to do. most tasers use high amperage batteries like the 18650
Very nice build Well done
You know, that the diy stun gun is powerful as hell, when the guy, who built it doesn't test it on himself or his friends at the end of the video))
23:37 ce "oh putain" qui vient du cœur 😆 Je compatit, les Arduino et les courants parasites c'est une plaie 😅
Clear flex seal spray is a fantastic dielectric insulation/potting material. It is super easy to use and I have never had any arcs from components potted in clear flex seal.
Must get some. 👍👍👍
Nice. So close to plasma discharge at light speed. Interesting good work
For those of you complaining about the part numbers being censored, please read the first 2 seconds of the video. Thank you 👍
Are you able to give the Stl file or is that a no?
You test on your self or sombody if realy works
Just need a housing for my stun gun
Can someone post these part numbers in the comments?
@pubg gaming hello
For everything that’s already on this platform the fact that you decided to censor stuff is beyond silly
Aerogels based on cellulose nanofibers can effectively shield electromagnetic radiation over a wide frequency range. Electric motors and electronic devices generate electromagnetic fields that sometimes have to be shielded in order not to affect neighboring electronic components or the transmission of signals.
Definatly some trial & error on that build. Good on ya for sticking with it.
Hi Nicolas!
I used high voltage generators (aka stun gun modules) in my art project ( th-cam.com/video/a3Wc-ahGum0/w-d-xo.html ) controlled by an esp32. During the R&D phase, I ran into the same problems you demonstrated in your video of controlling your stun gun with an arduino. I worked around this by using the esp32 to control a relay that switches an galvanically isolated isolated power supply. Specifically, I used the Meanwell SKA15B-05. Happy to share more if you're curious.
3/10 you didn't show any footage of you shocking yourself with it.
THAT'S A 150KV STUN GUN.
Wow, liked his determination! Awesome!
Hello, I would like to know the name of the application you use to draw 8:32
Hi Nicolas. You made a really good job there. Congratulations.
I think the problem with Arduino nano are the cables (also the proximity of power traces in your board), but cables are definitely a huge problem, if you try with Arduino nano soldered in the main board I think that could work properly.
Could you send me the measure of output waveform? If so, do this with a 600 ohms power resistor at output (between electrodes), this should make voltage drop to under 7000V.
Thank you in advance, and again... Well done.
Perfect cameo, was not undersold.
imagine making an electric sword, absolutely terrific
you did not provide any components details and winding information but after watching this video 2 times i figure-out full design and i am goin to try that and may be the video will be very soon on TH-cam.
by the way nice video and great work
once you have Mehdi one your side nothing can go wrong!
errr.... I mean everything will turn out fine after all!
great and easy to understand explanation!
Nice tutorial 👌🏼 10/10
Did not expect that Electroboom cameo
very complete and very good video on the subject thanks a lot
THAT CAMEO WAS UNEXPECTED!!
Great video, thank you. For shielding you need a metal foil of very high magnetic permeability, meaning, MuMetal. The metal shield on the old oscilloscope tube are just that. Believe me, this thing works. All the old oscilloscopes use it.
Cheers, just ordered a roll
Source: Trust me bro.
@@NicolasSalencPBP You can also use a old automotive or other gas engine coil to jack-up the voltage!
@@hxd9321 No, that's pretty much what Mumetal is made for. Trust me bro. Or else go find out yourself.
Current that goes out has to come back. So, it's best to include the positive rail, with the negative rail directly on the other side of the PCB from the positive rail. Otherwise, you can end up making a big loop that will induce massive currents in other parts of the circuit.
It may seem like the current will return by the shortest possible path. This is only true at very low frequencies and DC. But as you know, pulses are AC. And it doesn't take very much frequency before the return current starts trying to follow the outgoing current as much as possible. There are some excellent videos on TH-cam about this topic.
Very interesting comment 😊
Salut j’aimerais savoir quel est le logiciel que tu utilises pour ton fond bleu 👍🏽 ?
Great work man ! impressed !! Can you shield the NANO in grounded aluminium foil ? or copper shield . Paper on the inside and aluminium on the outside, to ground . Faraday cage . Very nice to insulate each layer, then its easier to get tidy layers and no x crossing . Hey, cotton drenched in oil . Volts per turn on the coil surface . By insulating just in "in and out" wire heavily, also reduce the risk of internal arcing . I avoid using PVC cause it has a very low melting point .
I like your video because you explain each point in detail. Can you please make a video on the RF amplifier using the 2SC1971 Transistor?
Super awesome project!
Amazing results!
What mosfets and gate resistors did you use? And how many primary turns did you use in the end? (For the small step up transformer, that charges the capacitors).
Thanks
Secret 🤫
@@NicolasSalencPBP Ok, so I have to find it out myself.
If I can find it out I will build a powerfull arc lighter with it.
(Note: you should connect a 100 micro henry inductor inbetween the centre tap and the positif to protect the transistors from high inrush currents)
Still a great vid and have a nice day. :-)
I guess the gate resistors are 220ohm, the capacitor on the primary is probably less than a microfarad (I guess 470nf at least 250v for better results use MKP capacitors) and I guess the mosfets are some low drain to source resistanz mosfets. Maybe some 10-12v zener diodes and the other diodes are ultrafast diodes (like the ultrafast version of the 1N4007). On the primary a few turns should be more than enough. (like one to three per half)
@@NicolasSalencPBP OK, I understand that you don't want that anyone gets hurt by making it. You did a great job and I like your desing.
@@firefox1136 The primary first transformer was purchased, you can find them on ebay for a few bucks. Search for 15kv high voltage transformer module. They come with a crude driver circuit that could be used in place of the ZVS driver however it wont be quite as powerful. Google search for ZVS driver for the full schematic used here. The gate resistors should be 470ohm .5w to 1w rated with 10kohm pull down resistors. The transformer should have 8-10 turns center tapped, so 2 4 turn coils or 5 turn coils for the primary.
As for mosfets I dont know exactly what he used however I've had great success with many different zvs drivers in the 400w-600w range using Stp75nf75 fets. They will be way more then enough for this application, and are quite powerful for a TO-220 package size. The capacitor value for the primary can vary quite a bit, .6uf to 1uf is the most commonly used range. The higher the value the hotter the arc generally.
@@motosk8er2 Thanks for giving me a mosfet I could use. Also I forgot the pulldown resistors, thanks for reminding me of that.
Thanks and have a nice day. ☺
Please tell me wich brand and type of epoxy do you use. Thank you.
I remember mythbusterd playing with one, it does switch from high amp low voltage when fired to high voilts low amp once connected . I think thats how Grant explained it.
hi mate. recently i discovered a way to dramatically reduce the input current and double the spark energy with those little 15kv arc lighter modules.
simply adding a tank circuit between pos and the drive coil and testing different film caps in parallel with a 44 mh choke coil,(the tank), i’ve had a fet and a tip 122 as single side switches running at 120 and 350 ma respectively, both at 11.5v and 4 mm spark gap with the fet and 8 mm with the tip. not sure how critical but both of these devices have the built in diode from C-E and the feedback coil doesn’t centre tap with the drive it’s separate.
also monitoring the d.c. volts in a cap across a fwbr hooked up to other side of the inductor ( its a dual mode 2 coil choke). looks like a way to optimise the cap across the choke for best tune. i’ve seen 27 volts in that cap with 11.5 input.
i just started posting videos and details on youtube.
Clever guy. Love it.
how long is the ferrite core, and how many turns of the primary and secondary coils, thanks!
Exactly. Just deliver a full 200kw contentious to the attacker 💥
Bro every electrical vid I watch there is electroboom in it and i love it😂
to isolate the arduino you could try optocouplers/isolators along with shielding
Hello sir I am Indian. Your content is so impressive mostly your English sound is clear. Anybody easily understand. ❤❤❤❤
Hi Sir Nicoles thank for the vidio sharing👍
this is a very good design
Awesome vid bro!
Cool info, thanks for sharing :)
now you can send the 3D files to JLCPB as well, and you will get a better manufactured 3D printed stuff. The quality si really mind-blowing. Your project is also great!
Vidéo très intéressante et très bon feat avec electroboom
I have no idea what im watching but im still watching 😂
Try using a ferrite core to protect your nano from emf, it may work, like on audio signal.
4:23 I'm glad their's at least one other person with as many small storage bins as me, lol.
Unfortunately, I was so eager to obtain them, I paid way too much.
so no link to download the stl file the pcb file the parts list ?
If I've learned anything from Electroboom it's that you always need a full bridge rectifier. Oh and remembering the right hand rule makes you dance.