Sorry if not clear how the timbers were secured. They were bonded to the cleaned floor ribs using silkaflex, a high strength adhesive designed for such applications. This prevents needing to drill through the van floor and is plenty strong enough, (I tested it using several materials and was very surprised.)
hi, I found these really useful "insulation stick pins" for securing insulation in van conversions they are really simple and very effective. here's the link www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stick-Pins-Insulation-Hangers-Camper-Conversion-Box-Of-100/282864350601?hash=item41dc077589:g:akkAAOSwM1tam-Hi
TY! This is the only video I found that showed how they built the floor around seats. Good idea with the inexpensive plastic sheet to template, just what I needed for how I can do mine.
Absolutely and without reservation, the very best series of steps to insulate the floor. I have been watching hours upon hours of floor insulation videos and the work you did far exceeds anything else I have seen. If anyone describes it as ‘over the top” they are not taking into consideration the safety of your children! Thank you very much
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful, lots of faster ways to do it but it's one of those jobs you can't really go back to so worth getting right first time.
I really appreciate your attention to detail and willingness to pull it all out and trim a tiny bit to get the fit just right. Well done! Thanks for sharing this.
I have just found your videos as am considering buying a microvan. I have loved watching your videos so far as to how you have gone about insulating the van and the little tips. The best videos I have seen on this for sure. Like the fact that you haven't just thrown in expanding foam. I'll be using your techniques if I get the van. Thanks so much for doing these! You have been a godsend in showing a not very good DIYer how to go about it.
Hi, Great job insulating the van, a lot of eork, but, you did a wonderful job, you and your family will be warm, without squeaks, we'll be watching, your progress, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!!
What. A. Man. This is honestly the most informative and thorough TH-cam series on camper van builds that I've found. And as a side note, your children are gorgeous
Not over the top mate, I've been trying to decide between baton floor or lay on to insulation board, "safety" rules the day! Thank you for making the video, you helped.
Thanks! I think we will be aiming for substance over style, so perhaps a little more information based than others but we will try and keep it fun to watch!
I am doing mine this weekend, thanks for some great tips i have learned, its petty much the same way as yours but i have drilled the floor never thought of bonding the battens down so i have to go underneath to make sure there is going to be no rust gggrrrrrr, brilliant video i have to watch the rest now, thanks again Regards Mark...
Just did something similar in my econoline van with transit double seats and brackets. I built the floor up with the battens in the valleys between the ribs with XPS foam board resting on the ribs. I filled in the gaps with spray foam and I can walk directly on the XPS with it flexing. Next up is 3/8” plywood to match the height of the metal loops on the seat brackets.
Might I give you a hint for everyone doing floors in vans...for years I have used Roofing felt (underlayment) under the timber (wood) to stop all the squeaks. You can get 30 lb or lighter but the key is making sure you get the "oil" based ones. This gives you a lifetime of lubrication between your layers so they don't squeak.
Thanks for sharing this exciting project with us! I appreciate the detail you have gone into- takes out a lot of guess work for people without much experience in this kind of thing. We are a family of 4, with 2 young kids and am so motivated by your project that I can't wait to start one for us. Looking forward to seeng what you do to make the van usable with the little kids. Good luck with whats ahead.
Can i ask why you didnt complete the vapour barrier by applying tape around the edges from the floor to the sides of the van as now the floors down you cannot seal the gap, making all the work you have done pretty pointless in preventing moisture getting to the steel floor? great editing by the way, love the twins working on the van!!
I know with the way you did it you had less cuts and used less screws but I would have split the floor into three sections. Leaving the high traffic center area with a solid board (no seam) and the seams on the sides were they will more than likely end up under a cabinet. Before you started have you figured out how much weight all your materials will add?
Have you considered putting thin layers of wool Insolation in the gaps bellow Celotex boards? To fill up those grooves of the metal flooring? Would that add any significant benefit?
I wonder if building this so tight is going to be a problem with heat expansion and contraction? I also wonder if running the seam down the center of your walkway is the best option? Wouldn’t running 2 seams to the side of a solid center board, under the kitchen & beds, give more integrity to the floor? I’d think squeaking might be much easier to address with rubber or felt bits at the edges...?
Hi. As I see you "lose" quite a few centimeters in the interior height by putting the insolation in. 30mm celotex + 12mm plywood + flooring on the bottom. Additional 25mm on the seeling + the wooden panels (are these 10mm?) I was wondering what interior height you got left in the end. Thanks for all these great videos. They are helping a lot. Cheers.
Only insulation on the ceiling is between ribs so only loose 10mm or so up top. It’s over 6ft still so fine for us. Cladding is 8mm finished dimension.
The wood batons are under the vapor barrier so isn't there concern of those absorbing moisture? Also, when you screw the plywood down into the batons doesn't that create a bridge also for the moisture to travel through the barrier?
Thanks for the video! I’ll be converting a van here in the next week for college and haven’t done any carpentry/renovating work since high school. Is the gist of the floor something like: remove everything, clean the floor, measure and cut boards, measure and cut insulation? Glue boards to floor, place insulation, measure and cut plywood floor boards, tape for vapor barrier, place plywood, screw plywood to base boards. That about it?
It's in the previous video but essentially double bunk beds or double with two singles above. Leaving option for a more temporary 5th bed up front somewhere if needed.
Great work and video's but one thing I wasn't clear on was how did you attach the batten's to the floor? were they glued, screwed or simply jigsawed together. Im about to start converting my SWB Sprinter hightop and learning from you. Thank you
Sweet build. I noticed a couple of things I’d of done differently but then you explained why you hadn’t at the end. I felt for you with the seat runners round the wrong way , p&ppppp but this is countered by shit happens !!! Glad to see you aren’t in the dynamat every inch club !
Tbh not sure how much difference the sound proofing makes if you insulate a decent amount. But then I didn’t want to regret not doing it further down the line. 👍
Thanks for sharing. We have a people mover with very similar removable seats that you put in. The manufacturer didn't do as good a job of as you did making that end seat mounts flush to the floor. It is annoying but you eventually get used to walking over it. But hey, gotta love your exacting standards. When it comes time to sell (dare I say that) in theory,it will be easier to sell if people can see you have done a good job of the whole camper. As I have seen in other camper builds it's surprising what can go wrong if rushed or not well thought out. We also need to be careful with how thick the flooring is as my husband is 6'2 and one son is about 6'4 and at 15 the other is even taller than that. So who knows how tall he will get.
Hi thanks for video, very helpful. when you referred to alternative flooring option “sandwich” of ply/insulation/ply is that without any battens? And if so do you think it would be strong enough? Thanks
thanks for the video. Not sure how exactly I'm doing my floor, I don't have the headspace you do. You definitely show great care and detail with your build.
I was watching another van build and when they were gluing the wood down they used some tile spacers under the wood so when the glue was applied it didn't just all squeeze out... This then gave them a nice solid bead of glue once dried....
Correct me if I’m wrong, it looks like you didn’t put insulation on the floor? So is insulation on the floor not require? Looks like you put a vapor barrier and plywood over it. I’m learning.
Another great project what adhesive did you use for the battens would like to do something similar in my work van to make a false floor did the adhesive give a secure fixing ?
Hi 🙂 we are using your videos as we go along with our van build. So first off thanks! Secondly where did you end up getting your Celotex from as everywhere we have looked it's around £75 for delivery! Thanks so much
most builder suppliers will stock celotex or other trade names like kingspan etc the size mentioned as 25mm is usually known generically as under floor insulation boards your local supplier will have one of the popular brands usually in 2.5m x 1.25m (8'x4') and may not charge too much for delivery but it should be available to collect using your van? hope this helps...Good luck
Will those seat bracket be a problem for water condensation onto them and running in under the flooring? I'm looking at fitting a single quick release seat in the back as well but that worries me.
Really love your videos. They made me feel so much more comfortable when I started doing my floors this week. I am also going to use a strong adhesive to attach my timber to the floor so I can screw my plywood and eventually furniture to them. It seems like the best route to go. How has everything held up for you? Would you still do it this way if you could do it all again?
I'm gona do the same in mine , was gona use tec 7 adhesive. Everyone I mention it to thinks i am mad from a safety point of view 🙈 I'm starting to doubt it now. "What about the vibration and crash" they say...
Just finished my insulation and battens on the floor :) Before taping it all up please can I ask what did you do with the black plastic triangles that line the bottom sides of the van?? Did you fill with soft inslaution or leave them as they are? Any info would be great! Cheers
Ours didn't have plastic triangles but if you mean the void at bottom of wall, I filled down to just below the van floor level and then left a small void below. Just in case any rain ever got in where the trim panels fix.
Hi. If you use the Celotex insulation, as per the Amazon link above, do you also need to add a separate Vapour/Waterproof Barrier? Greats videos. Cheers
Providing you tape joins them the foil will act as the vapour barrier. An additional ‘slip’ layer of polythene is sometimes used on floating floors but not really necessary. 👍
No more than a cab full of single glazing! 😀 not enough to be an issue for us. Sure if your living all winter in the alps it might be worth to put a floating floor in but there are far more beneficial ways to spend time and money to improve vans thermal properties.
Very impressive work, attention to detail and preplan. Is there a condensation issue with the sound proofing glued to the sheet metal? Also why not use spray foam?
You don't need that on the floor. Lizardskin and some closed cell foam will give you a better result. You just took to much headroom with adding that extra insulation which will do very little to insulate a metal floor.
Sound dephening shape doesnt realy matter that much it just dampens the sound of thin sheet metal also used if car audio is beeing significantly improved
Can anyone explain why you need to batten the floor. Just laying the ply on top of the insulation will do - it will spread the weight fine - the floor isnt going anywhere.
No need as such, you can do a sandwich of thin ply first and then thicker on top to prevent compression of insulation. Even without it might be fine. That said, well positioned battens are far better to fix units down in to that just ply alone.
Just doing my floor like yours now :) Did you put soft insulation in those pockets at the bottom of the walls, through like the triangular shaped holes before to put the black caps back on?
Only down to the floor level. Left the bottom sill areas free just in case any moisture needs to drain out, ( plus no need to insulate walls below floor level.)
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks :) I saw some guys had issues there with water pooling as well so probably a good idea. Keep up the great work on your channel :) it's helping me a lot!
Amazing videos, we're currently converting our own little van and i was wondering if you used any primer for the floor? I am thinking no as lino will go on the top, but my bf is thinking yes, can't do any harm putting primer on it. what do you think?
You can but no need. If anything, just sealing with PVA or SBR would be fine and give a good clean surface to bond flooring to. That said, clean ply is fine on its own. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouplethank you so much for replying.I think we will now leave it on its own. whoop whoop. By the way we watch and rewatch your videos all the time. They are super helpful. Thank you for making them
Hello! Great video, also looking to do a van project. Two questions for you - why did you not add any sound deadening to the floor and what's your concern about using expanding foam? I note a lot of conversions use a lot of that! Really enjoy your detailed approach.
Sound deadening floor might be worth doing but due to budget I focused on walls and wheel arches and above cab. Hopefully with the insulation, ply and flooring it should cut out enough. No real concerns about expanding foam apart from that it is quite often over used, if you spend time cutting insulation accurately it should take much less than just foaming up everything. Just a personal opinion that it can make you lazy! :-)
Great video. Learned a lot. I'm hoping to start a project like this (for a family of 4) in the next year or two. Question for you (I'm a newbie here, so forgive any ignorance)..... at 23:56 you mention the sandwich method (ply-25mm-ply) which seems like a pretty fuss-free method (along with providing a full thermal break as you mentioned). With the metal ribs on the floor of the van, I assume there would be some air gaps under the bottom layer of ply. Would there be any worry of condensation or rust in those gaps? Would that method require some sort of vapor barrier?
Thin ply bonded to the floor with Sikaflex, then 20 or 25mm PIR, (taped joins) then 12mm ply. I would have thought to screw the plywood layers together until I started using the Sika adhesives. They are plenty strong enough so whole thing would be fine without screws. It would basically be a SIP like used in construction. No condensation risk at all if you tape the boards and around the edges.
Assuming you mean some sort of electric ufh matting, it would usually go above insulation and ply but would be dependant on the product and what floor covering is being used.
I was considering not using a polyiso (polyisocyanurate) based insulation product like you did because it reportedly absorbs and holds water, which on the floor of a van would not be a good thing (in case there was a spill and things were not completely sealed). Also, I understand that the R value of polyiso decreases with temperature.
If you have moisture/water getting to your insulation you have more problems than worrying about thermal properties. That said, PIR is closed cell so should not take on water like some other foams.
Sorry if not clear how the timbers were secured. They were bonded to the cleaned floor ribs using silkaflex, a high strength adhesive designed for such applications. This prevents needing to drill through the van floor and is plenty strong enough, (I tested it using several materials and was very surprised.)
hi,
I found these really useful "insulation stick pins" for securing insulation in van conversions they are really simple and very effective. here's the link
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stick-Pins-Insulation-Hangers-Camper-Conversion-Box-Of-100/282864350601?hash=item41dc077589:g:akkAAOSwM1tam-Hi
Which blend of Sikaflex did you use, kind sir?
Your link to the Silkaflex is broken, which one did you end up using?
Great I was just thinking to ask that
I think it might be Sika 310g Sikaflex 221 - White Industrial Adhesive Polyurethane
TY! This is the only video I found that showed how they built the floor around seats. Good idea with the inexpensive plastic sheet to template, just what I needed for how I can do mine.
Absolutely and without reservation, the very best series of steps to insulate the floor. I have been watching hours upon hours of floor insulation videos and the work you did far exceeds anything else I have seen. If anyone describes it as ‘over the top” they are not taking into consideration the safety of your children! Thank you very much
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful, lots of faster ways to do it but it's one of those jobs you can't really go back to so worth getting right first time.
We are converting a van into camper ourselves and your DIY channel is so so useful! Really well done to you
I really appreciate your attention to detail and willingness to pull it all out and trim a tiny bit to get the fit just right. Well done! Thanks for sharing this.
can honestly say this is one of the best conversions ive seen!! and ive seen alot! lol
Damn this dude it right! Seriously. I was debating on just covering the holes where the seats go or not. Wow, great job buddy,
I remember checking TH-cam daily hoping to see the next episode had been uploaded... Hard to believe this was almost 2 years ago now!!!!
I have just found your videos as am considering buying a microvan. I have loved watching your videos so far as to how you have gone about insulating the van and the little tips. The best videos I have seen on this for sure. Like the fact that you haven't just thrown in expanding foam. I'll be using your techniques if I get the van. Thanks so much for doing these! You have been a godsend in showing a not very good DIYer how to go about it.
Thanks again for another great video and making it so clear. I’m using your videos like many people before to convert my van.. Thanks again
Hi, Great job insulating the van, a lot of eork, but, you did a wonderful job, you and your family will be warm, without squeaks, we'll be watching, your progress, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!!
Thanks Fred.
One of the best Videos I have seen on van insulating.
Thanks for the upload
Squeaks drive me crazy so i'm glad you addressed any potential issues ahead of time. Kudos. Great build.
I really enjoy the fact that not only is your workmanship superb, so is your camera and editing skills! Great documenting
What. A. Man. This is honestly the most informative and thorough TH-cam series on camper van builds that I've found. And as a side note, your children are gorgeous
Not over the top mate, I've been trying to decide between baton floor or lay on to insulation board, "safety" rules the day! Thank you for making the video, you helped.
superb job with no shortcuts great job
Awesome episode and channel. Thanks for not being soooooo corny like so many van life people!
Thanks! I think we will be aiming for substance over style, so perhaps a little more information based than others but we will try and keep it fun to watch!
i like your attention to details. It gave me some ideas for installing radiant flooring for cold weather climates. Thank You for the videos
I am doing mine this weekend, thanks for some great tips i have learned, its petty much the same way as yours but i have drilled the floor never thought of bonding the battens down so i have to go underneath to make sure there is going to be no rust gggrrrrrr, brilliant video i have to watch the rest now, thanks again Regards Mark...
Just did something similar in my econoline van with transit double seats and brackets. I built the floor up with the battens in the valleys between the ribs with XPS foam board resting on the ribs. I filled in the gaps with spray foam and I can walk directly on the XPS with it flexing. Next up is 3/8” plywood to match the height of the metal loops on the seat brackets.
Wow. So meticulously professional.
Linking materials used is very helpful thank you. Own build starts soon!
The best conversion video I've seen. excellent job!!! Just what I've been searching for. Thanks
Might I give you a hint for everyone doing floors in vans...for years I have used Roofing felt (underlayment) under the timber (wood) to stop all the squeaks. You can get 30 lb or lighter but the key is making sure you get the "oil" based ones. This gives you a lifetime of lubrication between your layers so they don't squeak.
Thanks for sharing this exciting project with us! I appreciate the detail you have gone into- takes out a lot of guess work for people without much experience in this kind of thing. We are a family of 4, with 2 young kids and am so motivated by your project that I can't wait to start one for us. Looking forward to seeng what you do to make the van usable with the little kids. Good luck with whats ahead.
Can i ask why you didnt complete the vapour barrier by applying tape around the edges from the floor to the sides of the van as now the floors down you cannot seal the gap, making all the work you have done pretty pointless in preventing moisture getting to the steel floor? great editing by the way, love the twins working on the van!!
Good point!
A little obsessed with planing.... but a cracking video and a really neat job. Loads of tips for me here.
I know with the way you did it you had less cuts and used less screws but I would have split the floor into three sections. Leaving the high traffic center area with a solid board (no seam) and the seams on the sides were they will more than likely end up under a cabinet. Before you started have you figured out how much weight all your materials will add?
Best thing I did was subscribe to your channel been talking about doing our own van for a while this video was spot on as are all the rest cheers
Have you considered putting thin layers of wool Insolation in the gaps bellow Celotex boards? To fill up those grooves of the metal flooring? Would that add any significant benefit?
No, I don’t see any major benefit, there are far more important places to spend time insulating and the benefit would be so minimal.
Finally a good insulation video! Thanks for sharing :D
I wonder if building this so tight is going to be a problem with heat expansion and contraction? I also wonder if running the seam down the center of your walkway is the best option? Wouldn’t running 2 seams to the side of a solid center board, under the kitchen & beds, give more integrity to the floor? I’d think squeaking might be much easier to address with rubber or felt bits at the edges...?
Hi, which Adhesive for Floor Battens did you use? the link is the video description is no longer working, could you please let me know?
Link repaced. I just used a standard sikaflex adhesive which is more than adequete. Spend more on the adhesives that are used externally.
Hi Tim, Thanks for your channel, I'm following your tips on my Boxer L4 conversion. Very helpful and easy to follow.
These are super helpful! Thanks you.
Hi. As I see you "lose" quite a few centimeters in the interior height by putting the insolation in. 30mm celotex + 12mm plywood + flooring on the bottom. Additional 25mm on the seeling + the wooden panels (are these 10mm?) I was wondering what interior height you got left in the end. Thanks for all these great videos. They are helping a lot. Cheers.
Only insulation on the ceiling is between ribs so only loose 10mm or so up top. It’s over 6ft still so fine for us. Cladding is 8mm finished dimension.
Did you screw down the timbers or only rely on the adhesive?
will your seats clip in facing forward and backwards?
The wood batons are under the vapor barrier so isn't there concern of those absorbing moisture? Also, when you screw the plywood down into the batons doesn't that create a bridge also for the moisture to travel through the barrier?
loving your van journey. I look forward to the next instalment
Loving the last screw slow mo :)
Thanks for the video! I’ll be converting a van here in the next week for college and haven’t done any carpentry/renovating work since high school. Is the gist of the floor something like: remove everything, clean the floor, measure and cut boards, measure and cut insulation? Glue boards to floor, place insulation, measure and cut plywood floor boards, tape for vapor barrier, place plywood, screw plywood to base boards. That about it?
Great video. looking forward to the next one. Interested in the bed layout for your your family of 4.
It's in the previous video but essentially double bunk beds or double with two singles above. Leaving option for a more temporary 5th bed up front somewhere if needed.
Absolutly brilliant detailed video , the small details are really helpful thanks buddy
My pleasure. :-)
Fantastic job on the van so far looking forward to the other videos cheers
Wow you did a great job on the floor. Can't wait for the next video!
Great work and video's but one thing I wasn't clear on was how did you attach the batten's to the floor? were they glued, screwed or simply jigsawed together. Im about to start converting my SWB Sprinter hightop and learning from you. Thank you
Adhesive.
Sweet build. I noticed a couple of things I’d of done differently but then you explained why you hadn’t at the end. I felt for you with the seat runners round the wrong way , p&ppppp but this is countered by shit happens !!! Glad to see you aren’t in the dynamat every inch club !
Tbh not sure how much difference the sound proofing makes if you insulate a decent amount. But then I didn’t want to regret not doing it further down the line. 👍
so informative, im looking to convert my land rover to bit of a stealth camper your videos have been really helpful for inspiration.
Thanks for sharing. We have a people mover with very similar removable seats that you put in. The manufacturer didn't do as good a job of as you did making that end seat mounts flush to the floor. It is annoying but you eventually get used to walking over it. But hey, gotta love your exacting standards. When it comes time to sell (dare I say that) in theory,it will be easier to sell if people can see you have done a good job of the whole camper. As I have seen in other camper builds it's surprising what can go wrong if rushed or not well thought out. We also need to be careful with how thick the flooring is as my husband is 6'2 and one son is about 6'4 and at 15 the other is even taller than that. So who knows how tall he will get.
Hi thanks for video, very helpful. when you referred to alternative flooring option “sandwich” of ply/insulation/ply is that without any battens? And if so do you think it would be strong enough? Thanks
thanks for the video. Not sure how exactly I'm doing my floor, I don't have the headspace you do. You definitely show great care and detail with your build.
Fantastic editing !
I was watching another van build and when they were gluing the wood down they used some tile spacers under the wood so when the glue was applied it didn't just all squeeze out... This then gave them a nice solid bead of glue once dried....
neilizer please give title and link to that video!
You owe me..... Just had to scroll back 2 months of History
th-cam.com/video/TnpB1HymiKc/w-d-xo.html about 3:40 in
This is what I love about youtube and all the van conversion vids, you pick up so many good tips. Thanks for the link dude!
Great video!
Correct me if I’m wrong, it looks like you didn’t put insulation on the floor? So is insulation on the floor not require? Looks like you put a vapor barrier and plywood over it. I’m learning.
The silver boards are 30mm solid pir insulation. 👍
Hi. Very good detail. Just 1 question. Did you fasten the battens to the floor?. Or do you rely on the whole system to keep everything in place?
Great job can't wait for the next instalment
On the way! :-)
Very informative but I'm still confused on how you secured the 30mm to the van floor.
Another great project what adhesive did you use for the battens would like to do something similar in my work van to make a false floor did the adhesive give a secure fixing ?
Really great work! Looking forward to the next instalment.
Exceptional work.
Well done!! I love your attention to detail. Subbed. Binge watching now.
I used 38 mm insulation and some close cell for any gaps. Then 1/2 inch plywood (OSB) on top. :)
Hi 🙂 we are using your videos as we go along with our van build. So first off thanks! Secondly where did you end up getting your Celotex from as everywhere we have looked it's around £75 for delivery! Thanks so much
most builder suppliers will stock celotex or other trade names like kingspan etc the size mentioned as 25mm is usually known generically as under floor insulation boards your local supplier will have one of the popular brands usually in 2.5m x 1.25m (8'x4') and may not charge too much for delivery but it should be available to collect using your van? hope this helps...Good luck
Will those seat bracket be a problem for water condensation onto them and running in under the flooring? I'm looking at fitting a single quick release seat in the back as well but that worries me.
You've done well. Love it. And thanks for helping
Really love your videos. They made me feel so much more comfortable when I started doing my floors this week. I am also going to use a strong adhesive to attach my timber to the floor so I can screw my plywood and eventually furniture to them. It seems like the best route to go. How has everything held up for you? Would you still do it this way if you could do it all again?
Would go the same route yes. I have had some very heavy loads of oak and building materials and the floor has help up very well.
I'm gona do the same in mine , was gona use tec 7 adhesive. Everyone I mention it to thinks i am mad from a safety point of view 🙈 I'm starting to doubt it now. "What about the vibration and crash" they say...
Just finished my insulation and battens on the floor :) Before taping it all up please can I ask what did you do with the black plastic triangles that line the bottom sides of the van?? Did you fill with soft inslaution or leave them as they are? Any info would be great! Cheers
Ours didn't have plastic triangles but if you mean the void at bottom of wall, I filled down to just below the van floor level and then left a small void below. Just in case any rain ever got in where the trim panels fix.
Yes the void :) Thanks, will do the same
So I'm guessing you glued the wood to the floor before adding the insulation. I never saw a drill or any bolts. Will Elmers work?
Is floor insulation absolutely necessary for Van life ?
Hi excellent video thanks. What did you use to stick the Battons to the floor?
What templating material did you use please?
Nice work. I hate it when I make a perfect cut only to realize I had mirrored it.
Hi. If you use the Celotex insulation, as per the Amazon link above, do you also need to add a separate Vapour/Waterproof Barrier?
Greats videos.
Cheers
Providing you tape joins them the foil will act as the vapour barrier. An additional ‘slip’ layer of polythene is sometimes used on floating floors but not really necessary. 👍
Any PIR board will do so may well find it locally to you.
Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Cheers
Great videos! How much do those timber batons create a thermal bridge to your flooring?
No more than a cab full of single glazing! 😀 not enough to be an issue for us. Sure if your living all winter in the alps it might be worth to put a floating floor in but there are far more beneficial ways to spend time and money to improve vans thermal properties.
Very impressive work, attention to detail and preplan. Is there a condensation issue with the sound proofing glued to the sheet metal? Also why not use spray foam?
You don't need that on the floor. Lizardskin and some closed cell foam will give you a better result. You just took to much headroom with adding that extra insulation which will do very little to insulate a metal floor.
Super clean! which sikaflex did you use? the link is broken. Thanks
Ah thanks. I see it often and didn't see the point.... thanks again.
what are the various shapes of silver insulation on the inside of the van walls for?
Sound dephening shape doesnt realy matter that much it just dampens the sound of thin sheet metal also used if car audio is beeing significantly improved
Can anyone explain why you need to batten the floor. Just laying the ply on top of the insulation will do - it will spread the weight fine - the floor isnt going anywhere.
No need as such, you can do a sandwich of thin ply first and then thicker on top to prevent compression of insulation. Even without it might be fine. That said, well positioned battens are far better to fix units down in to that just ply alone.
Thank you! Loving your videos.
nice edit with seeing 2 of u
Great video. How did you attach the battens to the floor? Adhesive?
Did you use the glue to hold down the battens to the floor too?
Nice job,did you use the adhesive only to glue te battons on the metal,or did you also use the adhesive to glue the insulation on the metal?
Just doing my floor like yours now :) Did you put soft insulation in those pockets at the bottom of the walls, through like the triangular shaped holes before to put the black caps back on?
Only down to the floor level. Left the bottom sill areas free just in case any moisture needs to drain out, ( plus no need to insulate walls below floor level.)
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks :) I saw some guys had issues there with water pooling as well so probably a good idea. Keep up the great work on your channel :) it's helping me a lot!
hi i did the same like you. My doubt is the floor board from Bnq untreated and it says to seal it .im scare without it can deform. What do you think?
Chipboard? If it’s standard stuff then yes seal if green may be ok. Either way it’s heavy stuff for a van.
@@TheRestorationCouple nope 10mm plywood like yours
Oh I see. 12mm ply is fine on its own providing you have a waterproof flooring going on top. No harm to seal it with PVA though.
@@TheRestorationCouple cheers m8 i will do that.
Amazing videos, we're currently converting our own little van and i was wondering if you used any primer for the floor? I am thinking no as lino will go on the top, but my bf is thinking yes, can't do any harm putting primer on it. what do you think?
You can but no need. If anything, just sealing with PVA or SBR would be fine and give a good clean surface to bond flooring to. That said, clean ply is fine on its own. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouplethank you so much for replying.I think we will now leave it on its own. whoop whoop. By the way we watch and rewatch your videos all the time. They are super helpful. Thank you for making them
Hello! Great video, also looking to do a van project. Two questions for you - why did you not add any sound deadening to the floor and what's your concern about using expanding foam? I note a lot of conversions use a lot of that! Really enjoy your detailed approach.
Sound deadening floor might be worth doing but due to budget I focused on walls and wheel arches and above cab. Hopefully with the insulation, ply and flooring it should cut out enough. No real concerns about expanding foam apart from that it is quite often over used, if you spend time cutting insulation accurately it should take much less than just foaming up everything. Just a personal opinion that it can make you lazy! :-)
You said that your preference is not to use expanding foam, is there a particular reason for this?
Van looking great so far.
Great job ! Love your video.
Great video. Learned a lot. I'm hoping to start a project like this (for a family of 4) in the next year or two. Question for you (I'm a newbie here, so forgive any ignorance)..... at 23:56 you mention the sandwich method (ply-25mm-ply) which seems like a pretty fuss-free method (along with providing a full thermal break as you mentioned). With the metal ribs on the floor of the van, I assume there would be some air gaps under the bottom layer of ply. Would there be any worry of condensation or rust in those gaps? Would that method require some sort of vapor barrier?
Thin ply bonded to the floor with Sikaflex, then 20 or 25mm PIR, (taped joins) then 12mm ply. I would have thought to screw the plywood layers together until I started using the Sika adhesives. They are plenty strong enough so whole thing would be fine without screws. It would basically be a SIP like used in construction. No condensation risk at all if you tape the boards and around the edges.
The Restoration Couple Then the 12mm ply would be fine to screw down rails for cabinetry and such?
If you wanted a heated floor how'd you do things differently?
Assuming you mean some sort of electric ufh matting, it would usually go above insulation and ply but would be dependant on the product and what floor covering is being used.
@@TheRestorationCouple : okay thanks
awesome stuff!! Thanks so much for putting this information together.
How did you get those very bottom pieces of wood to stay? Did you still them through the bottom of the van or what?
Silkaflex adhesive.
great video all round
I was considering not using a polyiso (polyisocyanurate) based insulation product like you did because it reportedly absorbs and holds water, which on the floor of a van would not be a good thing (in case there was a spill and things were not completely sealed). Also, I understand that the R value of polyiso decreases with temperature.
If you have moisture/water getting to your insulation you have more problems than worrying about thermal properties. That said, PIR is closed cell so should not take on water like some other foams.
What was used for templating?