Here are my answers to a few of the most common questions about this video. I'm using bright zinc plated BZP self drilling screws without the wings. I have found the wings don't knock off on thin sheet steel and you end up with an oversized hole that the screw won't fix into. No water will get into the van from below because the screw is plugging its own hole very tightly. Treat the exposed screw below the van with WAXOYL underbody car sealant to prevent rusting.
Good question, at 5:30 the writing on the box says 4.8 x 50mm. Maybe Greg initially used these and then decided that 5.5 x 38mm were long enough to secure the battens and don't protrude so much underneath? I've just ordered 4.8 x 38mm and will let you know how I get on.
Hands down Greg the way you insulated your van and vapour barrier is best on the net i used this method on my Citroën Dispatch hope life is treating you well 👍🍻👌
Its so beneficial to find a channel such as this. Fantastic instruction, easily understood, no over the top nonsense. Channels such as this are the gems of TH-cam. Many thanks, Greg. Tip top!
Greg, because I really enjoy watching your videos, and want to make sure you continue bringing these A+ class, I have to get on your case and ask you to use proper posture when working. Can’t avoid it, I’m a therapist and i see a lot of people with chronic back injuries and other postural related issues... use you knees by bending them when lowering your body, this will take your body along way my friend....greetings!
Great advice, thank you. I'm normally very aware of posture especially when lifting as I do have lower back problems which I have regular adjustments on. Nice that you are looking out for me, appreciate it.
@@GregVirgoe Could you have put small patches or strips of insulation foil or fabric such as thinsulate under those square foam boards for more insulation?
Once again great video, followed this and today got floor battens in and most of noggins in. Insulation and taping up tomorrow. Cheers Greg, proper advice and tips!
Hi Greg, Was just finishing my floor today and a guy came up to me and was asking if I had seen any of your videos :) We were both saying how great they are. Cheers!
Hi Greg. I came across your videos looking at camper builds as I am in the process of buying a van. The quality and content of your videos is superb. I am already an avid viewer. I think you will be guiding me through the complete build of my van. Thank you!
Just want to extend a Thank You for your video series on van conversion. I have only watched a few of your videos so far and I really appreciate your attention to detail and accurate fitment. You are an excellent craftsman! I am just now getting interested in converting a van into an RV and find your instructional videos very helpful. Once again, Thank You for all the work you have done in making your videos and for sharing your knowledge and ideas. -Dave from South Texas
Huge thanks for taking the time to give such great feedback Dave and I'm really pleased you are enjoying the channel and hope you like the rest of the series too
Hi Greg, I've been watching a fair amount of your videos now, because I'm planning to convert a classic bus into a mobile home. I have to say, your level of professionalism is unmatched. Those videos of yours are just brilliant! The love to detail and your expertise are astonishing. I also like your calm and confident way of explaining everything. It makes your videos a pleasure to watch. Keep up the good work, mate! 👍🏼😉
No van at the moment, just accumulating info for the project. : ) The work you do is amaziing!!! You got really great skills. ...and the videos are really cool, great patience in explanations, really really helpful. : )
@@GregVirgoe What are your thoughts on using Tyvek house wrap on the raw metal sided of the van? Before putting in the rock wool insulation, then the vapor barrier, then the interior walls, (of which I hope to have a large wall of peg board to hang/clamp stuff to.) I'm still in the planning stages of my build. My thought was that any condensation that happens to form on metal walls then wont soak into the rock wool. I live in a place that gets really cold in winter and hot and humid in the summer. For humidity issues I plan on using silica beads and rock salt. Very informative videos; thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@Wendy-il3lu if you make a very good job of the vapour barrier you will not get any condensation. The key is to stop it forming in the first place so you don’t need to worry about any problem cures. 👍🏼😊
You can use the old floor as a template for the new one :-). Really clean setup you made. Best so far i have seen on youtube. Great job. Happy new year. Greetings from Belgium Erik
Yep, that’s a brilliant idea, I did notice it was about 10mm smaller across the width before I took it up so I could draw around it and make allowance for a little extra 👍🏼 Thank you 😊
Did you seal the screws underneath? Personally I would cover all the screws with a rust protector. Great build by the way, thus has to be the best explained and thought out van conversion I've seen on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing it all with us. Really inspiring stuff. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Greg, before sealing them, use a cut off grinder, knock them down to 1/4" then use pure silicone for extended life and pliability, be sure to clean b4 applying it.
Thank you so much for scrolling though the previous comments Derek to find your answer, that really does help me loads and would save lots of time if everyone did that first. Many thanks 👍🏼😃
Your channel is an excellent resource! Thank you! I am preparing a 23ft step van, which has a cargo area of 7ft x 14ft. How should I insulate it for a tropical climate? I am in Puerto Rico. Thanks in advance!
David Sage it’s still a good idea to use the same principles as insulation will also work to keep the place cool in the heat and you also still need to protect against moisture from inside so follow these rules and you will be good. If it’s a box shape you can easily use PIR board which has the best thermal properties will be easy to install and most already have the foil covering.
Thanks Greg for all the fantastic videos. We are converting a Ford Transit right now and we reference your content frequently! Just ordered basically all the same materials you have used here to do our subfloor. Been using plenty of your ebay links, hope you get a few quid from it! Cheers, Rick
Thankyou. I'm starting my build with a Chevy express 2500. Its a very overwhelming process to start just tearing out what is there omg. your videos are great I'm working as I watch…. Thanks again.
Hi Greg I’ve just started my conversion and to say your videos have been helpful is an understatement Watching other videos your name is mentioned a fair bit as to the advice given Well done mate
Thanks for all the great videos Greg. I've recently seen people put down similar rigid insulation on the floor followed by plywood but without any batons. Will they face issues later in the build? Are batons necessary if the weight on the insulation will be distributed over the plywood flooring?
Greg Virgoe we don't in the floor mate just lay the battens down then 12 mm ply on top we only use the wool stuff in the walls p#ss poor really for the prices
Greg, great video series. Learning a lot of info. 1 question I have is do you have to screw your floor baten into the body of the van itself? Or would construction adhesive be good enough?
Just found Greg’s channel and the Sprinter van build series probably are the best on TH-cam (or anywhere in DIY fashion). Subbed right way! Great work on the van and thank you for sharing it!
Hi Greg, Thanks for another great video! Question for you, do you think screwing the boards into the floor was really necessary? I ask because I know you kept replaceability in mind when choosing insulation, but I feel with screwing in the floor it is now very permanent, and for a benefit I don't really see. Were you concerned with it sliding if not screwed in? Thank you very much for your time and keep up the great work!
Great question Taylor and thanks for asking. The floor is the one constant that now its down will never change. The decision to fix it down came from the need to have a very solid foundation to secure walls, cabinets, and internal fitting too. There's a lot of movement and G-forces when driving and I didn't want anything moving about. If the van was ever in an accident I don't want things flying toward the cab because the floor is not fixed down properly.
Hey Greg. Thanks again for sharing. I was showing your video to my wife as we are planning our conversion ourselves. She was looking at how clean and organized your shop was and said...look honey somebody just like you:). Actually as other have said, your clean and organized area and work is a great sign of craftsmanship and from my opinion reconfirms the quality of your build. With regard to this video and above question. I completely agree with your floor design and reasoning. I have read through all other responses but didn't see where anybody asked the question about having to screw the flooring members down at all. This would avoid any concerns with screws going through the deck and having to seal to prevent rust, etc. The reason I ask because as a wood worker I have grown up believing that a glued flat joint with sufficient bonding surface area is infinitely stronger than any fastener and therefore the only reason to use fasteners/screws in some applications is to 'clamp' the surfaces together to get good adhesion between the surfaces long enough for the glue to dry. With that, did you consider not screwing your wood floor members to the the steel deck and perhaps just weight the boards down to get good contact adhesion and rely on the glue/sealant for structural requirements? Or in this installation you believe the screws were necessary from a structural standpoint in addition to the glue/sealant?
"There's a lot of movement and G-forces when driving " - Will this effect the alignment of the van over time? I would think it might be better to not have it screwed down, and leave it somewhat flexible to movement, much like the construction of bridges. What is your thought since you've had it for 2 months now?
Jonathan I totally agree with glue in wood joints. I wasn’t convinced with a glue to painted van floor so the screws are there to secure it and the sealant is more for anti vibration than glueing. The shop does need a tidy up. Thanks for great feedback.
Hi Belinda, I’m my opinion there is absolutely no way you want anything floating about. In an accident anything that is not secure will be launched towards the cab. At any other time flexing in the floor or furniture will cause all your joints to prematurely fail due to additional stress of constant flexing. I personally cannot have it fixed enough for my choice. Thanks 😊
Mate, absolute class helpful videos. Thanks so much for sharing your time and effort. I'm now going to go back to No.1 and go through then. I've now got the bug and inspiration to do my own. Cheers
Best video on youtube mate for this kind of thing you didnt miss any steps perfect for others to follow. One thing id say would be pricing on the instolation and timber would be good 👌
Hello Pete, the insulation came in 8'x4' sheets and I used 3x25mm Celotex for the floor, 3x50mm Kingspan for the roof and 2x50mm Kingspan for the side panels and rear doors. 3xpacks of Earthwool for the walls. Total cost including timber batten and new plywood floor just under £500 for the lot.
Hi Greg, I have decided to do the floor of my van close to the way you did it, I’m in Canada and I have a Dodge Promaster (the sister of the fiat Ducato). I’m trying to find a similar foam with the foil side like the Celotex, i can seem to find it, maybe one of your followers from Canada or even you could suggest a similar product. Your vlogs have given me the confidence to do this challenging work myself, thanks for all your super help! Natalie
Hi Natalie, there is a product that is exactly the same called "IKO Enerfoil" and it is sold in Canada by LOWES or ROOFMART www.iko.com/na/publication/enerfoil-brochure-2/wppa_open/
@@GregVirgoe I have also been wondering this, I'm glad someone else asked!! Thank you for your amazing videos, all the the replies! I am also starting my own build thanks to you and your amazing content.
This is the most informative guide I have watched on TH-cam regarding these topics. I like your clear and concise delivery, no endless waffle which many of the stateside videos tend to be (no offence intended or implied). Just one question though. I notice you didn't apply any rattle stop matting material. Was that a conscious omission and if so what was your reasoning and how has the decision played out. Atb and again, fantastic stuff. Definitely my go to guide now.
Hello Dave, I have done sound deadening but not on the floor and I explain why in this video th-cam.com/video/fmvxtaZjFww/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the compliments 👍🏼
Hi Greg, your videos have been a great help. I've jus brought a transit mini bus to convert, i have no solid plans yet but your videos have pointed me in the right direction. Thanks! Suscribed!
Absolutely brilliant Greg, I love theses videos just what you need to know and to stop you making those big and expensive mistakes, Thanks very much Andy & Bev Weston
Two reasons Graham, 1. So there was something solid securing my furniture to the floor of my van, in the event of a crash it's not going to all fly towards the cab and kill us both. 2. The PIR board overtime in well-trodden areas does compress a little over time so it gives the new floor more support. Thanks for watching :D
Nice work yet again, full of learning to be had.....hope you keep the old flooring, just in case you ever want to convert back before selling it on...cheers Greg 👍🏼😊
Hello Marc, The vehicle will be a permanent conversion and I will be changing the DVLA registration class of vehicle. Once completed my £7k panel van with £8k worth of additional equipment will be worth 3x it’s initial value. It doesn’t make sense to then rip it all out and go backwards. The old floor will be cut up and scrapped I’m afraid. 😊
Greg, save the old flooring for a "Template" and note where fastener holes if any were, they will help with future build design and plans. Also, there is a possibility of others in need of your flooring, a "moving" company???
Hello Dak, I did exactly that. Clamped the new board to the old and traced around them. Saved a lot of time measuring and marking etc. Video is in the cutting room right now.
Greg, just found your channel, scribed! You definitely explain the tiny details with reasons. If I may, one thought I'd add is to not walk on the material between your ribs but to try and stay on the wood rib itself. Your insulation will "crush" and may get punctured by dropping a tool or to step on a screw. I'm looking forward to your other build vids in this endeavor. Fantastic job. As always with me, Free Ideas, Use M or Lose M. Larry
Hello, you will notice from this and the next video that we either use another board to spread across the battens or just stand on the battens like you say so as not to damage the new insulation. If you did puncture it make sure you repair with foil tape. Cheers
To clarify: I've seen 1x6 pressure treated that I could use as the support base mot the finish product. I was thinking of what to use compared to your 25mm timber. Most of the TH-cam videos have the low spaces filled in with foam board insulation to level it with the raised ribbed. And all put lengthwise. The plywood in the home stores are in metric thickness. You are the first one to put timber and plywood across. I like your method better.
Sorry I understand, so you will rip the 1x6 into strips to use as battens. Excellent thinking. You don’t need to fill all the little voids between the ribs having an air gap is not a problem at all in fact an air gap does offer some resistance to heat transfer. The most important part of any van insulation process is having a complete vapour barrier on the van side of the insulation before you ply the floor. It’s this vapour barrier that prevents your van floor from sweating. Make sure to seal right up to the edges and you are golden. Thanks for watching my videos and hope that helps 😊
great video, thankyou. Hadn't seen anyone else screw right into the base of the van on their build videos, but was wondering about doing this myself for extra security. Thanks for the tips
Hi Greg. Excellent video. I'm about three stages behind you in building my camper and your video's are proving invaluable! I really loved the consumer unit you built. I don't suppose you would consider building another one for me would you? Cheers and keep up the great work. Chris
Hello Chris, thank you for your kind comments. As you may appreciate my time is extremely limited. As well as this channel and my own build I have a full time job in London. You would probably be able to get one made for you at about £500 but there are also commercial ones available. Look up Power Management Systems. This one on eBay is less than what I paid for parts. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261652598767
My Sprinter was a converted workshop. Took the floor up and the bitchim sound deadening had left "tar" on the floor. It came off with some petrol. Couple of the hold down "bolts" had to be drilled out. No ordinary drill would touch them but I had purchased a set of Lidl HS drills and they went straight through them. Used a 4 mm for a start then switched to a bigger drill which bit and turned the bolt straight through the holding nut out on to the ground through the floor.
Very informative series Greg . I really enjoy watching you go through everything so thoroughly . Learning a lot and looking forward to watching the rest of your series . As a carpenter / builder myself I am learning a few tips from you about the insulation components etc ..... 👍
Why did you not just stick the Celotex down onto the van floor without the timber? Makes it better insulated. Worst case scenario if the Celotex ever came loose would be a floating floor. But that would never happen with the modern grab adhesives today. I done my last van like this and it’s still firmly affixed.
Hi Greg, good day, Again a very fantastic video, thank you so much. I read all the comments and answers before penning my own comments here. You are the best....! My conversion is seeing some light... shall keep you updated.... Can you please share your floor plan for your build
All the diy conversion videos that i've watched, i think yours is the most intelligent and effective way ever. Thank you for sharing this awesome video series.
Hello Greg, fisrt of all thank you so much for your amazing videos and professionalism ! They are truly my guides in my van conversion 😊 My question would be about Osb sheets. The van what I got have 20mm thick osb covering the floor and some 5mm carpet underneath. Do this have any insulating capabilities? I wanna insulate the roof and the walls with 19mm armaflex and put some plastic wool to the places where is hard to reach. Just as you did in this video. But for the floor I really considering what to put cause I don't wanna loose to much of the inner height cause I'm a tall guy and with sealing the roof I already balancing the edge 😞 . What would be your advice? If the osb worthless in therms of insulating capabilities, then I would go for 20mm xps 9-10 mm plywood (or osb) and a pvc vinyl (about 4mm)to close these layers and help it to keep clean. Thank you very in advance for your answer !
Hey Greg. Firstly just want to say you've been my hero throughout my whole van build. Turning to you at each stage has been so helpful and the detail you go into always puts me at ease. I am days away from finishing my build and I'm so excited, however... as is always the way with van builds, one step forward two steps back... I've noticed that my floor in front of my kitchen is creaking A LOT. It's the space most used and as I'll be living in it full time I just don't think I can live with it. I followed your video when doing the insulation and just wondered if there is anything you could suggest... obviously I don't want to have to take up the whole floor at this point, but also don't want it to get worse? Appreciate all the time you put into this channel and wish you all the best on your travels :)
Hi Stacey thank you for the nice comments. If you know where your battens run you can try fitting more screws to secure the ply and restrict its movement. Is the ply floor covered yet?
@@GregVirgoe Yes, unfortunately, but the vinyl flooring I've used is in strips so I could potentially take a few up and try it. I was concerned it could be the insulation board, which is much trickier to access. Its only that one patch. I will have a go! thank you for your quick reply!
@@staceykeay9082 it’s most likely to be a join between two boards which is flexing. Another solution you could try is to drill a hole near the site of the creak and inject some silicone. Once cured it will adhere to the timber and provide a flexible cushion to give extra support. If it’s any comfort we have a few squeaks but I don’t worry about it 😊👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg. You are the best. If we ever meet one day on the road I would love to make you a cuppa in the home you helped me to build! :)
Great videos on van build... To battens or not to battens... Facing this problem. Wats the main purpose of the battens? My ply will be screw into the floor on top of the insulation. Thx.
Jementa T it because over time the insulation is compressible and I wanted something solid for my walls and furniture to fix to to also help in event of a crash as we have no bulkhead. Just makes the structure more solid.
Just amazing you are! Absolute life saver thanks so much for making the most informative and easy to follow van build vids I have ever seen (it's been years!) Why use celofex on the floor and the other insulation board (not the earthwool bits) on the ceiling and walls please? Really appreciate your time and this channel!
Looks like one board was 25mm/1in and the other looked to be 50mm/2inch for the cieling. Use 2in up top, but you don't want 2in for the floor as it might break plus its more needed up top due to the sun.
Excellent work, as always. Very much enjoy your channel. I’m also working on a van build (box van) here in the States. I have not yet put down my floor, but I am also planning on putting down a layer of 1” polyisocyanurate followed by a layer of 1/2” ply (rather than 3/4” to save weight). I wasn’t intending on adding any battens in order to eliminate thermal bridging (I understand that wood is a fairly decent insulator, but as you know, the polyiso is superior). I am assuming that the foam board will be rigid enough to prevent the floor from flexing noticeably, especially given that I plan on gluing the foam board to the wooden floor of the van (my box van has a 1 3/8” thick wooden floor) and the plywood to the polyiso. I expect that this sandwich construction will increase the floor’s stiffness quite a bit. Given your recent hands-on experience, what are your thoughts on my approach? I understand that you’ve installed the battens in order to provide a means to fasten down your cabinetry as well as to support/fasten the plywood subfloor, but in my case I am not as concerned with the holding power of the screws I drive down into my plywood, as the cabinets will be held in place by bolts I’ll be fastening to the metal studs in the van’s walls. Looking forward to your next installment. Cheers! Pete
Hello Pete, the PIR board is surprisingly solid and with 1/2”ply over it to spread the load it may well be adequate in your application. I couldn’t say what it would be like over time in heavy traffic areas down the middle. Mine choice was structural to secure walls as well as support the floor.
Thanks for the quick response, Greg. Now you've got me questioning my approach (which is a good thing). I'll place a 1/2" panel on top of a sheet of the foam board and jump up and down on it to see if the polyiso compresses significantly. Regardless of the outcome of my little experiment, I think I'll place a narrow batten long the base of my cabinets and down my center aisle.
Hey Pete, I'm currently converting a 2011 Ford E350 cutaway with 12' Superior Corporation box, and am planning on a reverse approach. I'm sanding and finishing the existing hardwood floor (only in the areas to covered by cabinets, etc.), then insulating BELOW the floor (between the box joists, if you will) with 1" XPS (better moisture retention characteristics), then affixing tanks and such to frame rails and/or box joists. I've chosen this route to maximize interior height while minimizing weight. Plus, the floors, once finished, will look amazing. For the ceiling, I'll turn the reflective face of 1" polyiso sheets outward to act as a radiant barrier (ceiling is translucent). The ceiling will then be covered with a continuous foil vapor barrier (with seams taped). For the FRP walls, per manufacturer's recommendation, I'm going with vertical ¾" battens, covered by 1" polyiso sheets. With the ¾" air gap, this results in a near R-10, and provides a convenient chase between every stud to run conduit/wiring for any unforeseen requirements.
It stands to reason that the larger the surface area the smaller the pressure per m² area. The ply on top should help to distribute the weight over a greater surface area. Like to the comparison of a stiletto heal exerting the same pressure (PSI) as an elephant foot.
Hi John, Sounds like a good approach although installing the insulation from below with the drive shaft, gas tank, exhaust, brake lines, etc. in your way sounds like a bit of a pain. Hope you have access to a lift! My van is a Ford Transit cutaway with a 16' Unicell fiberglass body. I have plenty of headroom despite being 6'2" tall, so I'm adding 1" of polyiso to the floor and 2" to the ceiling, as well as the walls. My pine floorboards (what I'm calling my subfloor) would also make a nice finished floor, but instead I'll be adding cork flooring on top of the 1/2" ply that's going on top of my insulation. My gf and I like the look of cork, plus it's durable, soft underfoot, and even adds a tiny bit of insulation. :-) My walls and ceiling have 1" deep metal studs (joists on the ceiling, I guess) fastened to the fiberglass. I've glued 1" polyiso to the fiberglass between each stud. I'll add another layer of 1" polyiso on top of that, covering each stud, thereby eliminating the thermal bridge each stud creates. I'll have a few channels cut into the second layer of polyiso where I'll run my wiring. I wonder if you'd be better off from an insulation standpoint if you filled most of that 3/4" gap with foam insulation instead of an air gap (except for whatever wiring looms you need). I understand that you'll be facing the foil outward, creating a radiant barrier, but I'd think the foam would be a slightly better option. Maybe Greg can chime in, given that he is expert in these matters. Regardless, your current scheme sounds great. I'm not going to tape my seams. Instead, my strategy has been to leave a small gap around each sheet of polyiso and then follow up by filling the gap with closed cell foam (spraying Great Stuff Window & Door into the gaps and then cutting off the excess after it's cured). I figure I'll effectively have a solid sheet of foam (two layers, actually), so there really won't be much opportunity for moisture to travel through all that. Of course, I could be wrong. Best of luck with your build! Pete
Greg what is the impact of spray bed liner inside? Waste looking at musti1 doing a retro on east coast where road salt is used. He documented the body coating trapped in moisture and created rust. On the coast of WA salt air trusts all metal. Driving on the beach requires a car wash each visit. Hauling wood requires bed spray liner
Nice and easy way to do the job. However would you consider for a future project to skip the framing and rely on the compressive strength of the insulation? Once a sheet of 12mm ply is on top the load will be well distributed, I think the biggest pressure it will be exposed to will be a person standing on one foot, and to secure using the same screws from the ply side through the insulation into the van floor? I compare this to when polystyrene is used to insulate concrete slab floors which will be exposed to possibly much greater loads. I'd also use some adhesive and make sure all joints were taped.
love all your informative videos, Greg. Doing a van build myself at the moment, could you answer a question, please? I've done the 50mmx25mm subfloor, with rigidboard in each 300mm x 300mm square. Then foil taped it all. Can I now just use 8mm thick Laminate planks, glueing and screwing where needed? Trying to eliminate the plywood. Will do the same on walls and ceiling, too.
So happy I found this video. I just did my floor insulation and it looks identical to this. I was wondering if it was an overkill because I see people debate insulation so much. I didn't watch very many videos due to so many opinions. I love my turnout
Have you considered putting thin layers of wool Insolation in the gaps bellow Celotex boards? To fill up those grooves of the metal flooring? Would that add any significant benefit?
Here are my answers to a few of the most common questions about this video.
I'm using bright zinc plated BZP self drilling screws without the wings.
I have found the wings don't knock off on thin sheet steel and you end up with an oversized hole that the screw won't fix into.
No water will get into the van from below because the screw is plugging its own hole very tightly.
Treat the exposed screw below the van with WAXOYL underbody car sealant to prevent rusting.
Hi Greg, are the screws 38mm as stated in the description or the 50mm as shown on the box in the vid? Cheers mate, loving the series.
Good question, at 5:30 the writing on the box says 4.8 x 50mm. Maybe Greg initially used these and then decided that 5.5 x 38mm were long enough to secure the battens and don't protrude so much underneath? I've just ordered 4.8 x 38mm and will let you know how I get on.
@@lotorojo so what did you use in the end to go through your 25mm batten and floor of the van?
Hi Greg, top vids Are you referring to Celotex brand as being the best R value insulation PIR board to use compare to kingspan, Ecotherm etc.
Hi, how far apart did you lay the baton centres please?
Newbies like me really appreciate how you narrate every step. Even the ones that may seem obvious to more experienced builders
Hands down Greg the way you insulated your van and vapour barrier is best on the net i used this method on my Citroën Dispatch hope life is treating you well 👍🍻👌
Thank you 🙏🏼 really do appreciate the nice feedback. I’m busy working atm but hope to be back out travelling soon.
Somehow he even does Velcro calmly. He’s the bob ross of van life.
Happy accidents
I have watched countless videos on how to do this but no one explained it. THank you.
Its so beneficial to find a channel such as this. Fantastic instruction, easily understood, no over the top nonsense. Channels such as this are the gems of TH-cam. Many thanks, Greg. Tip top!
Really appreciate your kind comment, glad you liked the videos, Thank you
Completely agree.
You are the man! Done my roof insulation yesterday. Followed this video and pleased with how it turned out. Batons and ply to finish. Top advice Greg!
Really great 👍🏼 I’m glad it has helped you 😃
Greg, because I really enjoy watching your videos, and want to make sure you continue bringing these A+ class, I have to get on your case and ask you to use proper posture when working. Can’t avoid it, I’m a therapist and i see a lot of people with chronic back injuries and other postural related issues... use you knees by bending them when lowering your body, this will take your body along way my friend....greetings!
Great advice, thank you. I'm normally very aware of posture especially when lifting as I do have lower back problems which I have regular adjustments on. Nice that you are looking out for me, appreciate it.
Mr Greg just want to let you know that you are the man and you really have the best videos out there. Thank you
Paul Mann that’s really nice of you thanks for taking the time to let me know. Cheers
@@GregVirgoe Could you have put small patches or strips of insulation foil or fabric such as thinsulate under those square foam boards for more insulation?
The BEST tutorial on how to secure the floor and insulate. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your kind comment
Once again great video, followed this and today got floor battens in and most of noggins in. Insulation and taping up tomorrow. Cheers Greg, proper advice and tips!
Hi Greg, Was just finishing my floor today and a guy came up to me and was asking if I had seen any of your videos :) We were both saying how great they are. Cheers!
Oh my word, crazy how word gets about. thank you for letting me know.
Very thorough and you capture every step. You are the demi god of van build ,👍
Thank you very much 👍🏼😃
Super informative Greg! I know this is an old set of videos, but the information you give and the delivery is timeless.
I appreciate that! It's all still very relevant and useful to anyone doing thier own build.
Thanks for making these videos. I’m doing the same to my van and your workmanship and techniques have been of great help to me. Cheers.
I’m glad you liked them. Good luck with your build 👍🏼😃
Why is a British accent so lovely...being respectful...but you know what I mean...
Suzie Q why, thank you my lady. How delightful 😁😊
Ha - just saw you've already answered my question..... keep up the great work mate, we all really appreciate you. Trust me....
Just wanted to thank you for this well informed and well delivered series, It'll help me and many others, amazing job!
You are very welcome Holly, really pleased you are enjoying the videos. Thank you
Hi Greg. I came across your videos looking at camper builds as I am in the process of buying a van. The quality and content of your videos is superb. I am already an avid viewer. I think you will be guiding me through the complete build of my van. Thank you!
Jon Williams hope it really helps you. Have you subscribed? 👍🏼😃
@@GregVirgoe Yes mate. Picked up my van today.
absolute legend, explained everything perfectly, put all my worries to rest. thank you!
No problem Pipp, really glad it was useful to you. 😊
nice job...i do same thing on my old van..........100 years old....'greetings from croatia
Just want to extend a Thank You for your video series on van conversion. I have only watched a few of your videos so far and I really appreciate your attention to detail and accurate fitment. You are an excellent craftsman! I am just now getting interested in converting a van into an RV and find your instructional videos very helpful. Once again, Thank You for all the work you have done in making your videos and for sharing your knowledge and ideas. -Dave from South Texas
Huge thanks for taking the time to give such great feedback Dave and I'm really pleased you are enjoying the channel and hope you like the rest of the series too
Greg - Love your accent, and your calm detailed description of your build! I'M A FAN! ;-)
Excellent Greg, I can watch this stuff all day long 👍😄
Thank you mate, really appreciated.
Getting close to following your steps for my Nissan NV2500 HT. Almost finishe insulating the walls! :)
Thank you So Much for your very helpful videos!
Hi Greg, I've been watching a fair amount of your videos now, because I'm planning to convert a classic bus into a mobile home. I have to say, your level of professionalism is unmatched. Those videos of yours are just brilliant! The love to detail and your expertise are astonishing. I also like your calm and confident way of explaining everything. It makes your videos a pleasure to watch. Keep up the good work, mate! 👍🏼😉
Thank you very much for those wonderful kind words. I'm really pleased you are finding them to be useful. Best wishes with your own build.
Very clean, very tidy, great explanation, the timing of the video is great!!! One of the best I have seen. Thanks for sharing!!! : )
You are obviously at the same stage, what van do you have?
No van at the moment, just accumulating info for the project. : ) The work you do is amaziing!!! You got really great skills. ...and the videos are really cool, great patience in explanations, really really helpful. : )
Thanks again Greg extremely well presented and explained, Im sure it instills confidence in others as it does for me.
Thank you Paul, appreciate your support.
I’m so grateful to have found you! Thank you!
Nicely done Greg - best info on the net.
Thank you Fraser, much appreciated
That's awesome you had the floor boards you pulled up to use as templates.
If you don’t you can make cardboard ones before cutting the new wood.
@@GregVirgoe What are your thoughts on using Tyvek house wrap on the raw metal sided of the van? Before putting in the rock wool insulation, then the vapor barrier, then the interior walls, (of which I hope to have a large wall of peg board to hang/clamp stuff to.) I'm still in the planning stages of my build. My thought was that any condensation that happens to form on metal walls then wont soak into the rock wool. I live in a place that gets really cold in winter and hot and humid in the summer. For humidity issues I plan on using silica beads and rock salt. Very informative videos; thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@Wendy-il3lu if you make a very good job of the vapour barrier you will not get any condensation. The key is to stop it forming in the first place so you don’t need to worry about any problem cures. 👍🏼😊
You can use the old floor as a template for the new one :-). Really clean setup you made. Best so far i have seen on youtube. Great job. Happy new year.
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
Yep, that’s a brilliant idea, I did notice it was about 10mm smaller across the width before I took it up so I could draw around it and make allowance for a little extra 👍🏼
Thank you 😊
Greg Virgoe your very welcome ;-)
You love your series... you are a wise, knowledgeable man, in many areas and explain things well. Thank you for that. :)
Your work is excellent! Can’t wait to see more
Many thanks and great to have you on board.
Once again a very clear narrative and well thought out and executed task. Thanks Greg for yet another winning video. R & T
Really appreciate your continued support guys and as always such lovely comments. Cheers
Did you seal the screws underneath? Personally I would cover all the screws with a rust protector.
Great build by the way, thus has to be the best explained and thought out van conversion I've seen on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing it all with us. Really inspiring stuff.
Can't wait to see the finished product.
Yes of course, that’s an excellent suggestion and I’ll make sure to cover that in the next video. Thank you for your kind feedback.
Greg, before sealing them, use a cut off grinder, knock them down to 1/4" then use pure silicone for extended life and pliability, be sure to clean b4 applying it.
Thank you so much for scrolling though the previous comments Derek to find your answer, that really does help me loads and would save lots of time if everyone did that first. Many thanks 👍🏼😃
Best tutorials I’ve watched .glad I found your channel before I started my new conversation.
Thank you very much Steven, I'm glad you liked it
Your channel is an excellent resource! Thank you!
I am preparing a 23ft step van, which has a cargo area of 7ft x 14ft. How should I insulate it for a tropical climate? I am in Puerto Rico.
Thanks in advance!
David Sage it’s still a good idea to use the same principles as insulation will also work to keep the place cool in the heat and you also still need to protect against moisture from inside so follow these rules and you will be good. If it’s a box shape you can easily use PIR board which has the best thermal properties will be easy to install and most already have the foil covering.
Thanks Greg for all the fantastic videos. We are converting a Ford Transit right now and we reference your content frequently! Just ordered basically all the same materials you have used here to do our subfloor. Been using plenty of your ebay links, hope you get a few quid from it! Cheers, Rick
You got very lucky in regards to pulling that old ply up with having the Velcro. lucky it wasn't stuck down with liquid nails or similar 😱
Yes, it could have been a lot worse. Nice when some things go your way.
Thought the same here...even a "simple" double sided tape could make a real pain to remove or even lifting the floor...
That's what mine was Adam..
Thankyou. I'm starting my build with a Chevy express 2500. Its a very overwhelming process to start just tearing out what is there omg. your videos are great I'm working as I watch…. Thanks again.
BIG D planning is everything watch my Q&A video where I talk about my van bible 😊
Hi Greg I’ve just started my conversion and to say your videos have been helpful is an understatement
Watching other videos your name is mentioned a fair bit as to the advice given
Well done mate
Glad you found us and hope it helps you with your build 👍🏼😃
Thanks for all the great videos Greg. I've recently seen people put down similar rigid insulation on the floor followed by plywood but without any batons. Will they face issues later in the build? Are batons necessary if the weight on the insulation will be distributed over the plywood flooring?
You've made a cracking job of that floor mate much better than some commercial brands I could mention lol
Hello Mate, Happy New Year to you. Hope you had a nice break.
What insulation do you guys use in your campers? Cheers
Greg Virgoe we don't in the floor mate just lay the battens down then 12 mm ply on top we only use the wool stuff in the walls p#ss poor really for the prices
Greg, great video series. Learning a lot of info. 1 question I have is do you have to screw your floor baten into the body of the van itself? Or would construction adhesive be good enough?
No need to screw, not the best information imo
Just found Greg’s channel and the Sprinter van build series probably are the best on TH-cam (or anywhere in DIY fashion). Subbed right way! Great work on the van and thank you for sharing it!
Hi Greg, Thanks for another great video! Question for you, do you think screwing the boards into the floor was really necessary? I ask because I know you kept replaceability in mind when choosing insulation, but I feel with screwing in the floor it is now very permanent, and for a benefit I don't really see. Were you concerned with it sliding if not screwed in? Thank you very much for your time and keep up the great work!
Great question Taylor and thanks for asking. The floor is the one constant that now its down will never change. The decision to fix it down came from the need to have a very solid foundation to secure walls, cabinets, and internal fitting too. There's a lot of movement and G-forces when driving and I didn't want anything moving about. If the van was ever in an accident I don't want things flying toward the cab because the floor is not fixed down properly.
Hey Greg. Thanks again for sharing. I was showing your video to my wife as we are planning our conversion ourselves. She was looking at how clean and organized your shop was and said...look honey somebody just like you:). Actually as other have said, your clean and organized area and work is a great sign of craftsmanship and from my opinion reconfirms the quality of your build.
With regard to this video and above question. I completely agree with your floor design and reasoning. I have read through all other responses but didn't see where anybody asked the question about having to screw the flooring members down at all. This would avoid any concerns with screws going through the deck and having to seal to prevent rust, etc. The reason I ask because as a wood worker I have grown up believing that a glued flat joint with sufficient bonding surface area is infinitely stronger than any fastener and therefore the only reason to use fasteners/screws in some applications is to 'clamp' the surfaces together to get good adhesion between the surfaces long enough for the glue to dry. With that, did you consider not screwing your wood floor members to the the steel deck and perhaps just weight the boards down to get good contact adhesion and rely on the glue/sealant for structural requirements? Or in this installation you believe the screws were necessary from a structural standpoint in addition to the glue/sealant?
"There's a lot of movement and G-forces when driving " - Will this effect the alignment of the van over time? I would think it might be better to not have it screwed down, and leave it somewhat flexible to movement, much like the construction of bridges. What is your thought since you've had it for 2 months now?
Jonathan I totally agree with glue in wood joints. I wasn’t convinced with a glue to painted van floor so the screws are there to secure it and the sealant is more for anti vibration than glueing.
The shop does need a tidy up.
Thanks for great feedback.
Hi Belinda, I’m my opinion there is absolutely no way you want anything floating about.
In an accident anything that is not secure will be launched towards the cab. At any other time flexing in the floor or furniture will cause all your joints to prematurely fail due to additional stress of constant flexing. I personally cannot have it fixed enough for my choice. Thanks 😊
Mate, absolute class helpful videos. Thanks so much for sharing your time and effort.
I'm now going to go back to No.1 and go through then.
I've now got the bug and inspiration to do my own. Cheers
All the best to you and your family Greg for 2018.
Barry (Wirral)
Hi Barry, how nice to hear from you.
Hope you had a great holiday and my very best wishes to you and your family for 2018
Nice work again Greg, love the neatness of it all, well presented video yet again.....cheers mate.
Thank you David, you will no doubt see a trend here. 😊
I’m a bit of a perfectionist and like to do things as best I can.
Nothing wrong with having pride in your work
Best video on youtube mate for this kind of thing you didnt miss any steps perfect for others to follow. One thing id say would be pricing on the instolation and timber would be good 👌
Hello Pete, the insulation came in 8'x4' sheets and I used 3x25mm Celotex for the floor, 3x50mm Kingspan for the roof and 2x50mm Kingspan for the side panels and rear doors. 3xpacks of Earthwool for the walls. Total cost including timber batten and new plywood floor just under £500 for the lot.
Meticulous work! Pleasure to see such a thorough job.
Hi Greg, I have decided to do the floor of my van close to the way you did it, I’m in Canada and I have a Dodge Promaster (the sister of the fiat Ducato). I’m trying to find a similar foam with the foil side like the Celotex, i can seem to find it, maybe one of your followers from Canada or even you could suggest a similar product. Your vlogs have given me the confidence to do this challenging work myself, thanks for all your super help!
Natalie
Hi Natalie, there is a product that is exactly the same called "IKO Enerfoil" and it is sold in Canada by LOWES or ROOFMART
www.iko.com/na/publication/enerfoil-brochure-2/wppa_open/
Wow thanks I had not view lowes product! And again I love your vlogs.
@@GregVirgoe I have also been wondering this, I'm glad someone else asked!! Thank you for your amazing videos, all the the replies! I am also starting my own build thanks to you and your amazing content.
great work as always, thrilled to have found your build well ahead of my scheduled start. getting fantastic information and ideas out of you!
That’s great Allen, pleased you found them to be useful. What are you planning to build?
This is the most informative guide I have watched on TH-cam regarding these topics. I like your clear and concise delivery, no endless waffle which many of the stateside videos tend to be (no offence intended or implied). Just one question though. I notice you didn't apply any rattle stop matting material. Was that a conscious omission and if so what was your reasoning and how has the decision played out. Atb and again, fantastic stuff. Definitely my go to guide now.
Hello Dave, I have done sound deadening but not on the floor and I explain why in this video
th-cam.com/video/fmvxtaZjFww/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the compliments 👍🏼
Hi Greg, your videos have been a great help. I've jus brought a transit mini bus to convert, i have no solid plans yet but your videos have pointed me in the right direction. Thanks! Suscribed!
Absolutely brilliant Greg, I love theses videos just what you need to know and to stop you making those big and expensive mistakes, Thanks very much Andy & Bev Weston
Not sure why you needed the battens at all but a very neat job!!
Two reasons Graham,
1. So there was something solid securing my furniture to the floor of my van, in the event of a crash it's not going to all fly towards the cab and kill us both.
2. The PIR board overtime in well-trodden areas does compress a little over time so it gives the new floor more support.
Thanks for watching :D
Nice work yet again, full of learning to be had.....hope you keep the old flooring, just in case you ever want to convert back before selling it on...cheers Greg 👍🏼😊
Hello Marc, The vehicle will be a permanent conversion and I will be changing the DVLA registration class of vehicle.
Once completed my £7k panel van with £8k worth of additional equipment will be worth 3x it’s initial value. It doesn’t make sense to then rip it all out and go backwards.
The old floor will be cut up and scrapped I’m afraid. 😊
Greg Virgoe I also suppose it’ll be worthless for an additional van once you’ve won the lottery...😉😂😊
Greg, save the old flooring for a "Template" and note where fastener holes if any were, they will help with future build design and plans. Also, there is a possibility of others in need of your flooring, a "moving" company???
Hello Dak, I did exactly that. Clamped the new board to the old and traced around them.
Saved a lot of time measuring and marking etc. Video is in the cutting room right now.
Greg, just found your channel, scribed! You definitely explain the tiny details with reasons. If I may, one thought I'd add is to not walk on the material between your ribs but to try and stay on the wood rib itself. Your insulation will "crush" and may get punctured by dropping a tool or to step on a screw. I'm looking forward to your other build vids in this endeavor. Fantastic job. As always with me, Free Ideas, Use M or Lose M. Larry
Hello, you will notice from this and the next video that we either use another board to spread across the battens or just stand on the battens like you say so as not to damage the new insulation. If you did puncture it make sure you repair with foil tape. Cheers
I appreciate the SketchUp tutorial, it was very helpful.
You are welcome Larry, glad you liked it.
To clarify: I've seen 1x6 pressure treated that I could use as the support base mot the finish product.
I was thinking of what to use compared to your 25mm timber.
Most of the TH-cam videos have the low spaces filled in with foam board insulation to level it with the raised ribbed.
And all put lengthwise. The plywood in the home stores are in metric thickness.
You are the first one to put timber and plywood across.
I like your method better.
Sorry I understand, so you will rip the 1x6 into strips to use as battens. Excellent thinking.
You don’t need to fill all the little voids between the ribs having an air gap is not a problem at all in fact an air gap does offer some resistance to heat transfer.
The most important part of any van insulation process is having a complete vapour barrier on the van side of the insulation before you ply the floor. It’s this vapour barrier that prevents your van floor from sweating. Make sure to seal right up to the edges and you are golden. Thanks for watching my videos and hope that helps 😊
Brilliant work, as always, Greg!
Thanks John, really appreciated. What field of work are you in as you know your stuff. Construction?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍Excellent way of installing a van floor.
great video, thankyou. Hadn't seen anyone else screw right into the base of the van on their build videos, but was wondering about doing this myself for extra security. Thanks for the tips
Well done Greg. Great video and well explained details.
That’s made my day to see your comment, thank you 👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe hi Greg? Is that just sound deadening you put on the wheel arches in the back?? Please thank you
@@muffyvalentine not sound deafening it’s a couple of layers of foil faced bubble wrap to act act as thermal break and continue the vapour barrier.
Hi Greg. Excellent video. I'm about three stages behind you in building my camper and your video's are proving invaluable! I really loved the consumer unit you built. I don't suppose you would consider building another one for me would you? Cheers and keep up the great work. Chris
Hello Chris, thank you for your kind comments. As you may appreciate my time is extremely limited. As well as this channel and my own build I have a full time job in London. You would probably be able to get one made for you at about £500 but there are also commercial ones available.
Look up Power Management Systems. This one on eBay is less than what I paid for parts.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261652598767
Here is Helio from Brasil. Excelente video serie so far.
Just fantastic help, and very empowering videos. Thank you very much Greg.
My Sprinter was a converted workshop. Took the floor up and the bitchim sound deadening had left "tar" on the floor. It came off with some petrol. Couple of the hold down "bolts" had to be drilled out. No ordinary drill would touch them but I had purchased a set of Lidl HS drills and they went straight through them. Used a 4 mm for a start then switched to a bigger drill which bit and turned the bolt straight through the holding nut out on to the ground through the floor.
This is what I like very clean job
Thanks for the information and I will use your suggestion for waxoyl for the rust spots on van floor.😊
Super info Greg. Thanks! Love from Scotland, X.
Inquisitive1 thank you for all the lovely comments 😊😃
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, your channel is great, lots of good ideas.
Very informative series Greg . I really enjoy watching you go through everything so thoroughly .
Learning a lot and looking forward to watching the rest of your series .
As a carpenter / builder myself I am learning a few tips from you about the insulation components etc .....
👍
Brilliant video i am converting a small transit very informative information 👍
Why did you not just stick the Celotex down onto the van floor without the timber? Makes it better insulated. Worst case scenario if the Celotex ever came loose would be a floating floor. But that would never happen with the modern grab adhesives today. I done my last van like this and it’s still firmly affixed.
I was thinking this - is yours still firmly fixed now?
Hi Greg, good day, Again a very fantastic video, thank you so much. I read all the comments and answers before penning my own comments here. You are the best....!
My conversion is seeing some light... shall keep you updated....
Can you please share your floor plan for your build
You can see my build plan in glorious 3D in the first video of this build series.
th-cam.com/video/RLwaqbn_f6s/w-d-xo.html
All the diy conversion videos that i've watched, i think yours is the most intelligent and effective way ever. Thank you for sharing this awesome video series.
Hello Greg, fisrt of all thank you so much for your amazing videos and professionalism ! They are truly my guides in my van conversion 😊
My question would be about Osb sheets. The van what I got have 20mm thick osb covering the floor and some 5mm carpet underneath. Do this have any insulating capabilities? I wanna insulate the roof and the walls with 19mm armaflex and put some plastic wool to the places where is hard to reach. Just as you did in this video. But for the floor I really considering what to put cause I don't wanna loose to much of the inner height cause I'm a tall guy and with sealing the roof I already balancing the edge 😞 . What would be your advice? If the osb worthless in therms of insulating capabilities, then I would go for 20mm xps 9-10 mm plywood (or osb) and a pvc vinyl (about 4mm)to close these layers and help it to keep clean. Thank you very in advance for your answer !
Hey Greg. Firstly just want to say you've been my hero throughout my whole van build. Turning to you at each stage has been so helpful and the detail you go into always puts me at ease. I am days away from finishing my build and I'm so excited, however... as is always the way with van builds, one step forward two steps back... I've noticed that my floor in front of my kitchen is creaking A LOT. It's the space most used and as I'll be living in it full time I just don't think I can live with it. I followed your video when doing the insulation and just wondered if there is anything you could suggest... obviously I don't want to have to take up the whole floor at this point, but also don't want it to get worse? Appreciate all the time you put into this channel and wish you all the best on your travels :)
Hi Stacey thank you for the nice comments. If you know where your battens run you can try fitting more screws to secure the ply and restrict its movement.
Is the ply floor covered yet?
@@GregVirgoe Yes, unfortunately, but the vinyl flooring I've used is in strips so I could potentially take a few up and try it. I was concerned it could be the insulation board, which is much trickier to access. Its only that one patch. I will have a go! thank you for your quick reply!
@@staceykeay9082 it’s most likely to be a join between two boards which is flexing.
Another solution you could try is to drill a hole near the site of the creak and inject some silicone. Once cured it will adhere to the timber and provide a flexible cushion to give extra support. If it’s any comfort we have a few squeaks but I don’t worry about it 😊👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg. You are the best. If we ever meet one day on the road I would love to make you a cuppa in the home you helped me to build! :)
@@staceykeay9082 that’s the best offer I’ve had all day. Look forward to it 😊👍🏼
Loved the video & the tips. Super useful !! Thank you !!
You are most welcome Maria, thank you for watching
Great videos on van build... To battens or not to battens... Facing this problem. Wats the main purpose of the battens? My ply will be screw into the floor on top of the insulation. Thx.
Jementa T it because over time the insulation is compressible and I wanted something solid for my walls and furniture to fix to to also help in event of a crash as we have no bulkhead. Just makes the structure more solid.
Just amazing you are! Absolute life saver thanks so much for making the most informative and easy to follow van build vids I have ever seen (it's been years!) Why use celofex on the floor and the other insulation board (not the earthwool bits) on the ceiling and walls please? Really appreciate your time and this channel!
Looks like one board was 25mm/1in and the other looked to be 50mm/2inch for the cieling. Use 2in up top, but you don't want 2in for the floor as it might break plus its more needed up top due to the sun.
Excellent work, as always. Very much enjoy your channel.
I’m also working on a van build (box van) here in the States. I have not yet put down my floor, but I am also planning on putting down a layer of 1” polyisocyanurate followed by a layer of 1/2” ply (rather than 3/4” to save weight). I wasn’t intending on adding any battens in order to eliminate thermal bridging (I understand that wood is a fairly decent insulator, but as you know, the polyiso is superior). I am assuming that the foam board will be rigid enough to prevent the floor from flexing noticeably, especially given that I plan on gluing the foam board to the wooden floor of the van (my box van has a 1 3/8” thick wooden floor) and the plywood to the polyiso. I expect that this sandwich construction will increase the floor’s stiffness quite a bit. Given your recent hands-on experience, what are your thoughts on my approach? I understand that you’ve installed the battens in order to provide a means to fasten down your cabinetry as well as to support/fasten the plywood subfloor, but in my case I am not as concerned with the holding power of the screws I drive down into my plywood, as the cabinets will be held in place by bolts I’ll be fastening to the metal studs in the van’s walls.
Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers!
Pete
Hello Pete, the PIR board is surprisingly solid and with 1/2”ply over it to spread the load it may well be adequate in your application. I couldn’t say what it would be like over time in heavy traffic areas down the middle. Mine choice was structural to secure walls as well as support the floor.
Thanks for the quick response, Greg. Now you've got me questioning my approach (which is a good thing). I'll place a 1/2" panel on top of a sheet of the foam board and jump up and down on it to see if the polyiso compresses significantly. Regardless of the outcome of my little experiment, I think I'll place a narrow batten long the base of my cabinets and down my center aisle.
Hey Pete, I'm currently converting a 2011 Ford E350 cutaway with 12' Superior Corporation box, and am planning on a reverse approach. I'm sanding and finishing the existing hardwood floor (only in the areas to covered by cabinets, etc.), then insulating BELOW the floor (between the box joists, if you will) with 1" XPS (better moisture retention characteristics), then affixing tanks and such to frame rails and/or box joists.
I've chosen this route to maximize interior height while minimizing weight. Plus, the floors, once finished, will look amazing.
For the ceiling, I'll turn the reflective face of 1" polyiso sheets outward to act as a radiant barrier (ceiling is translucent). The ceiling will then be covered with a continuous foil vapor barrier (with seams taped).
For the FRP walls, per manufacturer's recommendation, I'm going with vertical ¾" battens, covered by 1" polyiso sheets. With the ¾" air gap, this results in a near R-10, and provides a convenient chase between every stud to run conduit/wiring for any unforeseen requirements.
It stands to reason that the larger the surface area the smaller the pressure per m² area. The ply on top should help to distribute the weight over a greater surface area. Like to the comparison of a stiletto heal exerting the same pressure (PSI) as an elephant foot.
Hi John,
Sounds like a good approach although installing the insulation from below with the drive shaft, gas tank, exhaust, brake lines, etc. in your way sounds like a bit of a pain. Hope you have access to a lift!
My van is a Ford Transit cutaway with a 16' Unicell fiberglass body. I have plenty of headroom despite being 6'2" tall, so I'm adding 1" of polyiso to the floor and 2" to the ceiling, as well as the walls. My pine floorboards (what I'm calling my subfloor) would also make a nice finished floor, but instead I'll be adding cork flooring on top of the 1/2" ply that's going on top of my insulation. My gf and I like the look of cork, plus it's durable, soft underfoot, and even adds a tiny bit of insulation. :-)
My walls and ceiling have 1" deep metal studs (joists on the ceiling, I guess) fastened to the fiberglass. I've glued 1" polyiso to the fiberglass between each stud. I'll add another layer of 1" polyiso on top of that, covering each stud, thereby eliminating the thermal bridge each stud creates. I'll have a few channels cut into the second layer of polyiso where I'll run my wiring. I wonder if you'd be better off from an insulation standpoint if you filled most of that 3/4" gap with foam insulation instead of an air gap (except for whatever wiring looms you need). I understand that you'll be facing the foil outward, creating a radiant barrier, but I'd think the foam would be a slightly better option. Maybe Greg can chime in, given that he is expert in these matters. Regardless, your current scheme sounds great.
I'm not going to tape my seams. Instead, my strategy has been to leave a small gap around each sheet of polyiso and then follow up by filling the gap with closed cell foam (spraying Great Stuff Window & Door into the gaps and then cutting off the excess after it's cured). I figure I'll effectively have a solid sheet of foam (two layers, actually), so there really won't be much opportunity for moisture to travel through all that. Of course, I could be wrong.
Best of luck with your build!
Pete
Good choice in using that blue wood to raise the subfloor.
Lose some height in there but at least the floor won't get soggy from condensation.
Great explanation about insulation. Thank you.
göker çermik if you haven’t seen it watch my insulation workshop too there are lots of helpful tips in that too 😀
Greg Virgoe i Have already watched that too. Actually before this one. That was also good. I am about to finish all about conversion. Great job. 👍👏👏
Greg what is the impact of spray bed liner inside? Waste looking at musti1 doing a retro on east coast where road salt is used. He documented the body coating trapped in moisture and created rust. On the coast of WA salt air trusts all metal. Driving on the beach requires a car wash each visit. Hauling wood requires bed spray liner
Nice and easy way to do the job. However would you consider for a future project to skip the framing and rely on the compressive strength of the insulation? Once a sheet of 12mm ply is on top the load will be well distributed, I think the biggest pressure it will be exposed to will be a person standing on one foot, and to secure using the same screws from the ply side through the insulation into the van floor? I compare this to when polystyrene is used to insulate concrete slab floors which will be exposed to possibly much greater loads. I'd also use some adhesive and make sure all joints were taped.
Omg this is the professional job so far
Thank you Cora 😊
nice job ,doing the same thing at the mo to my new high roof on my vw t5.
They are really nice vans, hold their money too, bit pricey for us.
love all your informative videos, Greg.
Doing a van build myself at the moment, could you answer a question, please?
I've done the 50mmx25mm subfloor, with rigidboard in each 300mm x 300mm square. Then foil taped it all.
Can I now just use 8mm thick Laminate planks, glueing and screwing where needed?
Trying to eliminate the plywood. Will do the same on walls and ceiling, too.
Beautiful job.
Thank you 🙏
That insulation is nice and thick!
Beautiful work ❤
So happy I found this video. I just did my floor insulation and it looks identical to this. I was wondering if it was an overkill because I see people debate insulation so much. I didn't watch very many videos due to so many opinions. I love my turnout
Fantastic workmanship and so informative, I’m really enjoying your videos lol you ran out of 100 meters foil tape 😂👍🏻
Hi Neil, I have gone through quite a few rolls of foil tape. 😁
@@GregVirgoe how many ?
another great video Greg.
Thank you Nell, pleased you're enjoying this series
Super helpful, thank you for sharing 🙏🏻🧡
I’m glad you liked it 🤩👍🏼
Have you considered putting thin layers of wool Insolation in the gaps bellow Celotex boards? To fill up those grooves of the metal flooring? Would that add any significant benefit?
It's such a small void I would not worry about filling them, it will make little to no difference overall.
Thanks for nice videos and reply!
You are most welcome.