I have just finished cladding the ceiling of my van and used the router and flush trim bit after your recommendation. Was amazing how easy it was and saved so much time! Thanks!
When you get to pulling wires through that conduit...use a vacuum cleaner to suck a piece of cotton or fishing line through (tie something small to the end to help the vacuum pull it through) then pull the wires through using the fishing line. Otherwise it can be a nightmare, especially corrugated conduit going around corners! Good luck :-)
Yep, will show that when we get to it. Usually I tie it to a bit of foam and suck it through with the shop vac, did it to run hoses under the patio and worked great. Pretty sure that corrugated conduit would be a nightmare to push through.
nice one doing the ceiling by yourself and fair play on the flush trim bit cut. Most people would be faffing around with a jigsaw and handsaw. Super helpful vids now that I've got a T5 to convert. Thanks!
Another excellent video. Full of very useful tips and great production and editing. That's no mean feat when you are trying to get a job done! As an aspiring van builder, this the best set of videos I've seen with really good rationale as to why you are doing what you are doing and how. I'm looking forward to seeing more.
I used the router method to cut openings for windows and the door when I insulated and sheeted my garage walls. It worked a treat, and as you say no messing about trying to cut to perfect size. Nice job.
Hi, My wife and I have been fo,long your van redo, what a great job, looking terrific, unique ideas we'll be watching, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!!
Great video as always. The parcel shelf is actually attached at the back by three bolts which can be undone using a torx bit (can't remember what size). Fiddly but doable. My arms are slim so could squeeze them in. I used a scope camera to see what I was doing!
Ahh, i did try and film with my phone down there but couldn't make out a head on the bolts. Oh well, it's actually a pretty clean base for the storage area and I should be able to get the insulation down beyond it.
Excellent, enjoying the videos and tips....don't think my van would ever get done to that standard. ...use it for window cleaning, but the gear comes out....the bed from pulls down. ..And off we go around Cornwall when I've time off...😉😎
absolutely hooked loving the series makes me want a van just for the project, was only looking for some inspiration for a land rover defender conversion but now I might need a van!
It would be really helpful if the van conversion was organized in its separate playlist. I wanted to look at the framing but I just can't find the video on your channel.
Just wondering, did you screw the back end of the cladding by the back doors to the ribs of the van? Or did you just screw it to the nearest rib by the back doors?
What is the opening u have In the ceiling that isn’t a fan. It looks like u can open and close with a accordion type door? If u can provide the name. I have a MaxxAir fan above the bed, which I love, but I’d like another opening near the stove area closer to cab. I have the Ram Promaster 2500 159 (2019). Thanks for great videos.
Hi. This is another ask about where you got your 4.2 cladding from, I can;t find it anywhere! Cheers: UPDATE: Just found your response in the comments below..."Bradfords building supplies. Just ask at any merchants and they can get it longer than off the shelf. So much better than joining."
Do you have any tips for ensuring that the panelling finishes at the same position at each side (so that you can angle them down symetrically to the van sides)? Thanks
This might be the FAQ, but when you have foil taped above the button, but later on you screw metal screws to the same button aren't you breaking the water seal barrier?
Screwing through a vapour barrier is usually unavoidable however there is still very lowrisk of an issue as the screw will pretty much self seal once in.
Couple of follow up questions: 1. Do you find the pine panels rattle at all when you drive? Did you consider glue as well? 2. Have you noticed much expansion and contraction in different climates? 3. Did you stain them afterwards, or would you recommend staining before installing? Thank you!
No rattling. Never glue t and g as it needs to move. In the height of summer there was a slight shrink which needed a touch up of paint here and there in the v groove. This can be avoided if you paint first but go thin to make sure they fit still.
I like your attention to detail! Wish you all of the best with the project. Are you keeping track of the hours you spend on the conversion? I know everyone who wants to do this would like to know all the costs for this project. Money and time values... half of any good job is well sorted out plan and preparation.
Clean install! Your right using full length boards anytime possible will always have the best look. I'm iffy on using wood/sheet metal screws on this kind of application because of vehicle movement/twist/vibration. I get it, it's the easiest solution. I had the thought of using rivnuts/nutserts with connector bolts (easier than..) or countersunk fasteners, 1/4-20 (6mm)? This would be much more complicated (A lot of neck straining upside down layout!) to locate the holes but would be much more robust and less likely to have any issues with brittle or loose fasteners. This route would most likely need to use VHB tape to isolate the wood from the metal as rivnuts have a lip so your contact point would be small. VHB would fill the void and isolate. Also if spaced properly the fasteners would have a cleaner look and allow for use of wider boards on the flat area anyways, which would be less work/fasteners. My 2 pence, Good videos!
The boards are screwed with regular wood screws into ply battens, not directly to ribs. The ply was attached with self drilling screws but with adhesive too. Have looked at rivnuts for another part of the build but not sure if necessary in my design, great system though.
Hi there, thank you for the awsome explainations on your conversion! I have a question: Does it not affect the functionality vapor barrier if you run screws through it? Best, Andrew
Hi Restoration Couple … thanks for sharing this DIY . The 16 mm screws you used . What type were they . I was thinking of using finishing trim torx screws with a small head but can’t seem to find them that in length I want . Not sure what to use .
Fantastic series of videos and really helpful in my planning for next years van conversion. I'd like to ask a couple of questions please. As I don't own a router I thought I would fit one full length strip at a time cutting each, in situ, at the skylights as I go, do you see any problems with this approach? Did you consider doing a lot of the prep and painting work on the timber pre-fitting and then just the finishing fill and paint once up? Finally, if you had the same van roof to insulate again are there any things you would now do differently? Many thanks and keep up the great work.....Al
Why tough and grove cladding? Just aesthetics? It's heavy and it might get squeaky. I plan to use plywood or siding panels, any problem with big sheets of 5 mm plywood?
It’s very lightweight and easy way to have no end joins, plus we liked the look. Ply fine too albeit harder to scribe and fit in one piece on your own. No reason not to if you are lining it with carpet or vinyl though.
hi am only on your paneling of the ceiling video :) very much a beginner to the campervan world and late to the party so everything is brand new for me but great build by the way i have a Q just as you started to stick your flexi pipe in your van where did you start from and and were does your end stop at the back of your van or front .. have you stuck it on both side of your van or just down one side and up to the points of were you want you ceiling fixtures ie fan light and so on does this make any sense :)
How did you insulate above the cab. With Celotex or the plastic wool. I have just reached this stage in my van build and can't decide the best way to go about it.
Wondering if you screwed the tongue and groove into the furring strip on the ceiling cross members or self taping screws through to the actual metal cross members.
Loving your Van conversion videos! Been very helpful so far as I work on my own project. Would you be able to tell me where you purchased the 4200mm cladding please? Love the seamless look! Cheers, Dan.
My wife and are really enjoying your camper conversions as we're doing one ourselves and it's good to know we're not the only crazy ones!We'd like to T&G our ceiling but have concerns about swelling/shrinking/squeaking of the wood. Do you think this'll be an issue? Any tips to stop these things happening?
Hi, loving your videos, really informative and you make it look so easy! We will need to expand our tool range as only have a drill and a jigsaw at the mo. We have the mwb boxer so very interested in how you created the over cab storage. Perhaps you have posted a video on that but I haven't found it yet. Will cut off the lip as you have done but what next?
My personal preference would have been to use a carpeted head liner over a thin hardboard stuck on with spray adhesive to give it that more warm look and so that is would give that little extra head room all be it maybe 20mm
still did not understand how you applied the wood to the metal panels of the car. just screw them in? are there any special screws? will they be strong enough? will they hold to vibrations and all?
Hi - how do you know that the tongue and groove panels are straight when you are putting them up? Is there a particular method you use or is it guesswork? Also, why don't you start from the side rather than the middle?
I wanted to have a single centre board so it looked balanced. I measured but also went off some of the vans holes and fixings which were centred. You can then use a story stick make sure you are staying straight. Tbh if you get the centre right the rest should end up fine.
Can I ask what merchant you managed to get your t&g cladding from for your roof because I’m struggling to get it in that thickness and in a full length. Many thanks
How did you secure the insulation to the roof? Also I see you screwed the wood to the insulation what screws did you use for this to stop it falling down?
Hey! Just wanted to ask you how did you attach the matchboards on the roof? Did you use screws or nails? If screws, did you pre-drill each board to avoid it to breake? Thanks a looot!
Hi,loving your conversion.The best and most informative videos I’ve seen. I’ve been wondering if there’s a reason why you screwed your roof panels back rather than using T&G clips like a lot of van converters seem to use Keep up the excellent videos
Hi there.. thanks for the vids.. really helpful! How is the 8mm cladding bearing up? I'm thinking to use 3m lengths from Wickes, but they seem really flimsy and I'm worried they'll distort over time. Also, I can't find 4m + lengths (too thin for builders merchants, too long for DIY places) apart from one quite expensive timber yard (ripped to spec for £160+).. can I ask where you found yours? Thanks loads!
8mm is fine, if painting you will get a little wood show on teh tongue when they shrink a bit unless you paint first I guess. Apart from that, fine. We have teh same stuff in our loft rooms and looks great. Wickes cladding is very poor and super brittle. the 4.2m 8mm we used was from Bradfords, it's just over £1/m I think, the timber merchants they use/own is Snows Timbers and I believe it's nationwide.
Hi. Can you please tell me where you sourced your roof cladding please? I too want extra long cladding. I have a Boxer so basically the same as your van. Loving your videos. Thanks in advance.
I think he’ll find it hard to push small, stranded wire through that corrugated conduit. As you’re installing the conduit you should thread a stout piece of nylon twine through the conduit so it is end-to-end when you’re done. Then you attach your wires and pull them thru, pulling another piece of twine with the wire(s). So you always have a “pull string” in the conduit should you ever need to add a wire later.
sunbin64 He knew where the box was enough to get a pilot hole somewhere inside the square, though if unsure he could've drilled pilot hole from top/roof side. Anyway the 'trick' is the type of bit he used in his router. That particular bit probably had a ball-bearing wheel on the end. The result being that the wheel follows the preexisting fan box hole so you get a perfect cut. While the cutting part of the bit only cuts wood and never touches the metal hole because the wheel holds the bit the perfect distance away from the metal hole. ( Sorry to be so wordy. )
sunbin64 For anyone interested here is a random link to a router bit seller. But of interest is their 'banner' at the top of their web page, it shows 5 router bits - the two on the ends have the little wheel to which I was referring. goo.gl/images/ZDdjnw
@ Time 8:40 he mentions a 'Flush Trim' router bit. I didn't know the name of that type of bit. But that will help you find the right type of bit when you need it.
Hi, I've been doing internet searches into which van to buy. I'm a bit confused because either I'm looking at the wrong vans or everyone whos done a van conversion is only about 5'6 in height. Most of the High Roof vans only list an internal load height of about 6'1. This means after floor and roof insulation and boarding, Most people would be walking around with their heads bent over, but that's not what I see. What am I missing? Am I reading/converting the load heights wrong?
Mange 2 our van is now 6'2" with the finished insulated floor and ceiling. That might be an issue fit some but fine for us and doesn't seem too low. Other vans may be much less though.
Hi I got a question. How do you mount the panels? You just use tapping screws into the insulation material? I'm still not sure how I can fix the panels on my roof :/
I apologize if this is mentioned somewhere, I spent a fair amount of time looking thru your blog etc. Maybe my Yank accent is not translating very well :) But what brand/type of tube adhesive were you using for the metal to wood adhesion? You seem to be impressed with it. Did it also work well on the insulation foil face to metal connection as well? Thanks for the vids, very informative.
8mm from local builders merchants. They might not stock it but it will only take a few days to get hold of and so much better than diy store type shorter lengths.
Hey. Happy Birthday! Great work and nice how you explain everything! Maybe strange question but how tall are you? Compaired to the height of the roof? And how high is the step to get into the cockpit (cabin) ? Isn't it too low to get in confortly?
The ceiling height is just over 1.8m, which is fine for us. Others may want to reduce the floor insulation to gain height or get the extra high model. If you mean the step behind the front seats, it's around 100mm or so, without the swivel seats I can't tell you how access is but don't see it as an issue as will only be sat anyway.
I have just finished cladding the ceiling of my van and used the router and flush trim bit after your recommendation. Was amazing how easy it was and saved so much time! Thanks!
It certainly saves all that measuring. Works well on lost of things, I did the shed windows the same way.
When you get to pulling wires through that conduit...use a vacuum cleaner to suck a piece of cotton or fishing line through (tie something small to the end to help the vacuum pull it through) then pull the wires through using the fishing line. Otherwise it can be a nightmare, especially corrugated conduit going around corners! Good luck :-)
Yep, will show that when we get to it. Usually I tie it to a bit of foam and suck it through with the shop vac, did it to run hoses under the patio and worked great. Pretty sure that corrugated conduit would be a nightmare to push through.
nice one doing the ceiling by yourself and fair play on the flush trim bit cut. Most people would be faffing around with a jigsaw and handsaw. Super helpful vids now that I've got a T5 to convert. Thanks!
Another excellent video. Full of very useful tips and great production and editing. That's no mean feat when you are trying to get a job done! As an aspiring van builder, this the best set of videos I've seen with really good rationale as to why you are doing what you are doing and how. I'm looking forward to seeing more.
I used the router method to cut openings for windows and the door when I insulated and sheeted my garage walls. It worked a treat, and as you say no messing about trying to cut to perfect size. Nice job.
Hi, My wife and I have been fo,long your van redo, what a great job, looking terrific, unique ideas we'll be watching, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!!!
Firstly... HAPPY BIRTHDAY.
Second, Your videos are complied perfectly and Your delivery of the topic is practically perfect.
Lastly, what a man!! 😜
Many thanks for this series. Will be doing a simmilar project upcoming months and learning a lot, very practical and honest style of presenting.
Looking good, I like knowing your thought process behind what your doing, great stuff
Just want to say im loving your channel mate keep up the good work 👍
Impressed with the overhead routing, I have enough trouble controlling it on ther bench in fron of me. Great series of videos!
Great video as always. The parcel shelf is actually attached at the back by three bolts which can be undone using a torx bit (can't remember what size). Fiddly but doable. My arms are slim so could squeeze them in. I used a scope camera to see what I was doing!
Ahh, i did try and film with my phone down there but couldn't make out a head on the bolts. Oh well, it's actually a pretty clean base for the storage area and I should be able to get the insulation down beyond it.
Love it, looks Fantastic. Can't beat the panel look. Quality is in the details. 👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
Great decision with the roof lights, you achieved an excellent neat finish there :-) Good job!
Excellent, enjoying the videos and tips....don't think my van would ever get done to that standard. ...use it for window cleaning, but the gear comes out....the bed from pulls down. ..And off we go around Cornwall when I've time off...😉😎
Looks very neat! Really like your videos I am new to your channel but I am looking at your older vids bless you and yours
Where did u manage to find 4.2 meter lengths please. I'm struggling to find them for my build and I really really need them 😊
absolutely hooked loving the series makes me want a van just for the project, was only looking for some inspiration for a land rover defender conversion but now I might need a van!
Just watched the 2 previous to this video, automatically liked before this video started.
Fabulous job again. Your videos are really going to help me with my build. You're doing all the thinking for me!
How do you find cables for the lights after you put the ceiling?
Hi, love your videos!! Just started my own van project and was wondering where you got the full roof length tongue and groove from? Thanks 😊😊
Nice work
Well done 👍
I watched the 'samurai carpenter' use the same technique with the router on paneling over a window frame - brilliant!
I noticed that too! It works well and saves alot of measuring, just a bit more mess!
Very nice job
Nice idea with the router. Might do it that way myself now
Great job as always (many happy returns)
Thank you for the very detailed video.
It would be really helpful if the van conversion was organized in its separate playlist. I wanted to look at the framing but I just can't find the video on your channel.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
Just wondering, did you screw the back end of the cladding by the back doors to the ribs of the van? Or did you just screw it to the nearest rib by the back doors?
Great work, very impressed and lots of inspiration..Great job..Look forward to the next video..Happy Birthday..
What is the opening u have In the ceiling that isn’t a fan. It looks like u can open and close with a accordion type door? If u can provide the name. I have a MaxxAir fan above the bed, which I love, but I’d like another opening near the stove area closer to cab. I have the Ram Promaster 2500 159 (2019). Thanks for great videos.
How to you avoid hitting screws that are already in the battens when you screw anything to the buttons it self?
No great science, I may have hit one or two out of 200. :-)
Hi. This is another ask about where you got your 4.2 cladding from, I can;t find it anywhere! Cheers:
UPDATE: Just found your response in the comments below..."Bradfords building supplies. Just ask at any merchants and they can get it longer than off the shelf. So much better than joining."
What screws are you using to hold up the T&G?
Do you have any tips for ensuring that the panelling finishes at the same position at each side (so that you can angle them down symetrically to the van sides)? Thanks
How did you affix the pine to the ceiling. What did you screw into? The wooden struts?
This might be the FAQ, but when you have foil taped above the button, but later on you screw metal screws to the same button aren't you breaking the water seal barrier?
Screwing through a vapour barrier is usually unavoidable however there is still very lowrisk of an issue as the screw will pretty much self seal once in.
Couple of follow up questions: 1. Do you find the pine panels rattle at all when you drive? Did you consider glue as well? 2. Have you noticed much expansion and contraction in different climates? 3. Did you stain them afterwards, or would you recommend staining before installing? Thank you!
No rattling. Never glue t and g as it needs to move. In the height of summer there was a slight shrink which needed a touch up of paint here and there in the v groove. This can be avoided if you paint first but go thin to make sure they fit still.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks!
I like your attention to detail! Wish you all of the best with the project. Are you keeping track of the hours you spend on the conversion? I know everyone who wants to do this would like to know all the costs for this project. Money and time values... half of any good job is well sorted out plan and preparation.
If you’re using celotex for the roof, do we not have to use another layer of thermawrap to cover it afterwards or?
Clean install! Your right using full length boards anytime possible will always have the best look. I'm iffy on using wood/sheet metal screws on this kind of application because of vehicle movement/twist/vibration. I get it, it's the easiest solution. I had the thought of using rivnuts/nutserts with connector bolts (easier than..) or countersunk fasteners, 1/4-20 (6mm)? This would be much more complicated (A lot of neck straining upside down layout!) to locate the holes but would be much more robust and less likely to have any issues with brittle or loose fasteners. This route would most likely need to use VHB tape to isolate the wood from the metal as rivnuts have a lip so your contact point would be small. VHB would fill the void and isolate. Also if spaced properly the fasteners would have a cleaner look and allow for use of wider boards on the flat area anyways, which would be less work/fasteners. My 2 pence, Good videos!
The boards are screwed with regular wood screws into ply battens, not directly to ribs. The ply was attached with self drilling screws but with adhesive too. Have looked at rivnuts for another part of the build but not sure if necessary in my design, great system though.
Another excellent job
Hi there, thank you for the awsome explainations on your conversion! I have a question: Does it not affect the functionality vapor barrier if you run screws through it? Best, Andrew
my thoughts exactly. Have you found any answers Andrei? thanks
Hi Restoration Couple … thanks for sharing this DIY . The 16 mm screws you used . What type were they . I was thinking of using finishing trim torx screws with a small head but can’t seem to find them that in length I want . Not sure what to use .
Nice video. You mentioned something about soft plywood. Would it be possible to use 12mm soft plywood for the battens?
Great video! Where did you get your tongue and groove? I can't find any 8mm at longer then 3m...
Fantastic series of videos and really helpful in my planning for next years van conversion. I'd like to ask a couple of questions please.
As I don't own a router I thought I would fit one full length strip at a time cutting each, in situ, at the skylights as I go, do you see any problems with this approach?
Did you consider doing a lot of the prep and painting work on the timber pre-fitting and then just the finishing fill and paint once up?
Finally, if you had the same van roof to insulate again are there any things you would now do differently?
Many thanks and keep up the great work.....Al
happy bday for when ever you recorded this :)
Why tough and grove cladding? Just aesthetics? It's heavy and it might get squeaky. I plan to use plywood or siding panels, any problem with big sheets of 5 mm plywood?
It’s very lightweight and easy way to have no end joins, plus we liked the look. Ply fine too albeit harder to scribe and fit in one piece on your own. No reason not to if you are lining it with carpet or vinyl though.
Great work, where did you source the lounge and Greece form in 4.2 meters? Cheers
Hello, thanks for video! Did you drill this cladding straight into the metal of the van? Or is it necessary to use wood strips along the ribs first?
hi am only on your paneling of the ceiling video :) very much a beginner to the campervan world and late to the party so everything is brand new for me but great build by the way i have a Q just as you started to stick your flexi pipe in your van where did you start from and and were does your end stop at the back of your van or front .. have you stuck it on both side of your van or just down one side and up to the points of were you want you ceiling fixtures ie fan light and so on does this make any sense :)
Just to where I need it and from the control panel/fuse box location. I then left the option to run future bits within the upper cabinets if needed
Very interesting. I'm hooked. Great videos
Happy belated birthday!!!
hi , you have screwed the tongue and groove in the ceiling , why did you choose not to use tongue and groove clips so the screws do not show?
How did you insulate above the cab. With Celotex or the plastic wool. I have just reached this stage in my van build and can't decide the best way to go about it.
25mm pir against roof and carpeted, some sort insualtion at sides and then boxed out with pir.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks for the quick reply. Your videos have been super helpful so far
Wondering if you screwed the tongue and groove into the furring strip on the ceiling cross members or self taping screws through to the actual metal cross members.
T and G just screwed to the ply strip.
Don't run negative back to the fuse box, just to any local metal, the whole van body is negative
Iain's Craft Beer & Brewing yes they will eventually terminate to the body. Just rather do it where I can access and not delay insulating walls.
Happy belated birthday!
Hi
Just came across your van build videos and I’m keen to watch the rest
Can you tell me the thickness on the boards you used on your roof please
8mm finished thickness.
Loving your Van conversion videos! Been very helpful so far as I work on my own project. Would you be able to tell me where you purchased the 4200mm cladding please? Love the seamless look! Cheers,
Dan.
My wife and are really enjoying your camper conversions as we're doing one ourselves and it's good to know we're not the only crazy ones!We'd like to T&G our ceiling but have concerns about swelling/shrinking/squeaking of the wood. Do you think this'll be an issue? Any tips to stop these things happening?
Hi, loving your videos, really informative and you make it look so easy! We will need to expand our tool range as only have a drill and a jigsaw at the mo. We have the mwb boxer so very interested in how you created the over cab storage. Perhaps you have posted a video on that but I haven't found it yet. Will cut off the lip as you have done but what next?
My personal preference would have been to use a carpeted head liner over a thin hardboard stuck on with spray adhesive to give it that more warm look and so that is would give that little extra head room all be it maybe 20mm
Keep up the good work with the channel , quick question.. where was the T&groove classing from ?
What wood should I use for my wall and roof Battons? Type and size / width. Thanks mate.
still did not understand how you applied the wood to the metal panels of the car. just screw them in? are there any special screws? will they be strong enough? will they hold to vibrations and all?
Battens omn first with adhesive and self drilling screws. All panels were then fixed to that.
happy birthday
Hey great series! Where did you buy the tongue and groove cladding from?
Bradfords building supplies. Just ask at any merchants and they can get it longer than off the shelf. So much better than joining.
Hi - how do you know that the tongue and groove panels are straight when you are putting them up? Is there a particular method you use or is it guesswork? Also, why don't you start from the side rather than the middle?
I wanted to have a single centre board so it looked balanced. I measured but also went off some of the vans holes and fixings which were centred. You can then use a story stick make sure you are staying straight. Tbh if you get the centre right the rest should end up fine.
hope your taking account of all the extra weight your adding which will affect the final payload.......looking good...
Yep stil looking on target for weight. This pine T&G is quite a bit lighter than the equivelant in py which surprised me.
Can I ask what merchant you managed to get your t&g cladding from for your roof because I’m struggling to get it in that thickness and in a full length. Many thanks
Bradford’s/Snows timber.
How did you secure the insulation to the roof? Also I see you screwed the wood to the insulation what screws did you use for this to stop it falling down?
It's shown in the video before this one. It's not actually fixed to the roof per se, it's wedged between the timbers
Def could have used a SawzAll to remove that edge along plastic over-cab liner. Maybe SawzAlls are rare in the U.K.?
Hi do you remember the thickness of the tongue and groove that you used?
Hey! Just wanted to ask you how did you attach the matchboards on the roof? Did you use screws or nails? If screws, did you pre-drill each board to avoid it to breake? Thanks a looot!
Just a tiny trim screws, no drilling. It was a bit of a pain as we needed to fill and paint. So you could look at the clips which avoid that.
Happy birthday..
would love it you listed your materials in description thickness etc maybe with links
Hi,loving your conversion.The best and most informative videos I’ve seen.
I’ve been wondering if there’s a reason why you screwed your roof panels back rather than using T&G clips like a lot of van converters seem to use
Keep up the excellent videos
I was painting so no need. anyway however they are useful if staining.
Brilliant!
Hi. Just a question. What screws did you use for the batons to screw in to the metal roof ribs?
Great videos
Just some self drilling screws. The adhesive does most of the work but worth putting a few in.
Hi there.. thanks for the vids.. really helpful!
How is the 8mm cladding bearing up? I'm thinking to use 3m lengths from Wickes, but they seem really flimsy and I'm worried they'll distort over time.
Also, I can't find 4m + lengths (too thin for builders merchants, too long for DIY places) apart from one quite expensive timber yard (ripped to spec for £160+).. can I ask where you found yours?
Thanks loads!
8mm is fine, if painting you will get a little wood show on teh tongue when they shrink a bit unless you paint first I guess. Apart from that, fine. We have teh same stuff in our loft rooms and looks great. Wickes cladding is very poor and super brittle. the 4.2m 8mm we used was from Bradfords, it's just over £1/m I think, the timber merchants they use/own is Snows Timbers and I believe it's nationwide.
Ah great. There's a Bradfords not too far.. I'll try them on Monday. Thanks!
Absolutely love the videos and in-depth tips. I might have missed it but what thickness pine cladding are you using?
8mm finished thickness. 👍
Hi. Can you please tell me where you sourced your roof cladding please? I too want extra long cladding. I have a Boxer so basically the same as your van. Loving your videos. Thanks in advance.
Most builders merchants can get it. I used Snows timber via Bradford’s building supplies.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thank you.
I think he’ll find it hard to push small, stranded wire through that corrugated conduit. As you’re installing the conduit you should thread a stout piece of nylon twine through the conduit so it is end-to-end when you’re done. Then you attach your wires and pull them thru, pulling another piece of twine with the wire(s). So you always have a “pull string” in the conduit should you ever need to add a wire later.
Really enjoying the videos, loads of useful information. I really like the wood panel ceiling, what will you use for the walls ? Thanks.
Plywood walls but probably grooved/planked effect. Not quite there yet!
@@TheRestorationCouple any reason you didnt use groove effect ply on the ceiling?
Where did you manage to source the 4m lengths of cladding?
Any timber merchants should be able to. Snows was the source of ours I think
LOVE your videos! Would you still recommend fitting the roof vents prior to insulating/ paneling the ceiling or could we add add them after?
How did you know where the box was?
sunbin64 He knew where the box was enough to get a pilot hole somewhere inside the square, though if unsure he could've drilled pilot hole from top/roof side. Anyway the 'trick' is the type of bit he used in his router. That particular bit probably had a ball-bearing wheel on the end. The result being that the wheel follows the preexisting fan box hole so you get a perfect cut. While the cutting part of the bit only cuts wood and never touches the metal hole because the wheel holds the bit the perfect distance away from the metal hole. ( Sorry to be so wordy. )
Thanks. I'm clueless about that kind of stuff. This guy is a real carpenter.
sunbin64 For anyone interested here is a random link to a router bit seller. But of interest is their 'banner' at the top of their web page, it shows 5 router bits - the two on the ends have the little wheel to which I was referring. goo.gl/images/ZDdjnw
Carpenter Family Tricky,and all detailed info is always appreciated by us novices who are learning through watching these builds and reading comments.
@ Time 8:40 he mentions a 'Flush Trim' router bit. I didn't know the name of that type of bit. But that will help you find the right type of bit when you need it.
A retrospective Happy Birthday:) Your planning and execution credentials are faultless!
Hi, I've been doing internet searches into which van to buy. I'm a bit confused because either I'm looking at the wrong vans or everyone whos done a van conversion is only about 5'6 in height. Most of the High Roof vans only list an internal load height of about 6'1. This means after floor and roof insulation and boarding, Most people would be walking around with their heads bent over, but that's not what I see. What am I missing? Am I reading/converting the load heights wrong?
Mange 2 our van is now 6'2" with the finished insulated floor and ceiling. That might be an issue fit some but fine for us and doesn't seem too low. Other vans may be much less though.
Thanks for the reply. I will be careful when making measurements. Your videos of the build have been so informative and easy to follow. Thanks.
Hi I got a question.
How do you mount the panels? You just use tapping screws into the insulation material?
I'm still not sure how I can fix the panels on my roof :/
Job van de Noort if you watch the previous video you will see that there are plywood strips, they are foil taped over in this video. 👍
The Restoration Couple oh yea forgot about that ;) good one tnx!
I apologize if this is mentioned somewhere, I spent a fair amount of time looking thru your blog etc. Maybe my Yank accent is not translating very well :) But what brand/type of tube adhesive were you using for the metal to wood adhesion? You seem to be impressed with it. Did it also work well on the insulation foil face to metal connection as well? Thanks for the vids, very informative.
Really like your work. Are you a professional contractor/builder? One thing: How did you know exactly where to cut the roof flush with the openings?
Awesome job bud, Where did you source your long pine batten from?
Loving your videos👍👍
Phillip Hinter ,
Where did you get the long lengths? & What thickness did you use?
8mm from local builders merchants. They might not stock it but it will only take a few days to get hold of and so much better than diy store type shorter lengths.
How thick is that panel?
Hey. Happy Birthday! Great work and nice how you explain everything!
Maybe strange question but how tall are you? Compaired to the height of the roof? And how high is the step to get into the cockpit (cabin) ?
Isn't it too low to get in confortly?
The ceiling height is just over 1.8m, which is fine for us. Others may want to reduce the floor insulation to gain height or get the extra high model. If you mean the step behind the front seats, it's around 100mm or so, without the swivel seats I can't tell you how access is but don't see it as an issue as will only be sat anyway.