Everybody with this issue please listen to my comment I looked underneath my truck and sure enough the dealership had electrical tape on both of my speed sensors so before I went to work that morning I just touched them a little bit pushed and my truck work fine all the way to work so so that's where you guys need to look this guy this guy has saved a lot of people thousands of dollars but not me because I fixed everything before I found this video. Thank you so much sir🙏
Thank you for this video, my 14' is having the same issues. In my research so far most people with this issue report taking it to the dealer and get charged $1k-$2k to replace an abs module and some other module only to have the issue pop up again. Mine is intermittent which seems consistent with loose/broken wiring.
Highly recommend finding someone with a scanner like his or like a solid edge snap on to tell you the code. Mine is also a mostly on and sometimes off problem. I’m hoping after repairing wiring and replacing a couple sensors that had an erratic performance will solve the issue.
I just had the same issue with my 2011 Ram Sport with one minor change. Only the Svc 4X4, traction control lights and Trl Brake switch was flashing a "CF" code but not the ABS light. Also, the cruise control was not working. It turned out to be the brake stop light switch at the pedal out of adjustment. The fix was to remove the brake light switch, unplug it, and then pull the small black plunger to full extension then push the plunger back into the body of the switch about halfway or enough that your brake lights are not illuminated once your brake pedal is released to the rest position.
I have a 2011 ram longhorn. I have and had same problems. My backup sensor stopped working. I found that rode grime wash wax may be cause. I cleaned them with wd40 and they went right back to working. I replace from wheelberring assembly, learned that complete assembly with sensor was cheaper than just buying the sensor. Light came on week later driving in rain. I tried taking them out cleaning them with wd40 they went right back to working. The traction control light took it to dealer. The price was ten times higher than quote from reputable locale guy. I also had him replace the evaporator, due to no cabin filter.( leaking freon in cab)Also had him install cabin filter kit on line for $20. He saved me 800.00 dollars on evaporator change. We used original parts. Do your research and save much money. Always get 3 quotes and never tell other quotes or who. Ask if they warranty their work.
Definitely not polarity sensitive. Voltage from abs through wheel speed sensor generates a square wave signal with duty cycle proportional to vehicle speed. Square wave signal is then sent back to abs module for interpretation.. 1 of the 2 wires is positive but the sensor itself works in either direction.
I meant the two wires have to be connected with the correct polarity as you mentioned one is power. Hook it up backwards and it won't work. I know the sensor reads speed in either direction.
My Durango 07 has same symptoms..i believe its window harness at door jam..them wires run to tipm and can be causing a short..i replaced alot of things so far..also when i drive car and get it warm..it has no start till it sits..
I have a ‘10 Ram 1500. Having the issue, scanner is placing the problem on the driver rear. When I do the live data graph, it’s showing it still reading speed while the three others are not moving and I switched the rear sensors to see if that was the problem. Still the same. What could it be?
@justinbegay3613 so the driver rear sensor is showing a speed signal sitting still? And you switched left to right and it's still the same? What scanner are you using? I'd try a different scan tool and if it's still the same try plugging in a used ABS module. You will likely have a vin mismatch code but see if the speed signals are normal. I'm not sure if a used ABS module can be used and reflashed to the truck though.
Philip, Thank you for the video! I have a 2010 Ram 1500 with the same exact issues. Its been doing it for about a year now. I am trying to trade it in and I want to fix this problem as quickly and cost efficiently as possible.. could I fix this problem without going to a mechanic?
Lol that's like asking me if you can do dental work... you need a scan tool to read the codes from the ABS controller to start with. Most OBD2 code readers will only read the engine controller. Once you have the code from the computer it will suggest where the fault lies. Other than that you can visually look for broken speed sensor wires and you may get lucky. Hope this helps you.
We have a 2015 1500 n this has been a problem for a year now! We've done everything possible n still have problems, well it comes and goes! We'll never buy another dodge again!
Hay bud i got a 2011 4x4 5.7 and iv replaced cam and crank sensors even cleanded my throttle body. anyway i cant get on the gas without it cutting power like it bogs down then starts gaining power then the engine light flashes and code pops up cylinder1 missfire. But if i just ease into the gas it runs kinda normal. Do u think its a cam and lifters? I really hope its not because thats gonna be a long weekend
Well if the MIL is flashing and the ECM is setting code P0301 then you have to figure out why its misfiring. try replacing the plugs, swap the coil etc to eliminate ignition first. confirm it is actually misfiring on number 1 by unplugging injectors one at a time and noting the expected change while its idling. check the injector drive, compression test etc. good luck
I forgot to mention i did put new plugs and tryed switching coils. I did take the fuel rail off one the number one side and looked at the injector/ injectors but didint test number one injector but it looked clean.. and thanks for the help i appreciated the feed back
@@justbraaapit2311 Well you need to start over again seems. First with it running try unplugging each injector one at a time to confirm the problem is actually number 1. Sometimes its not. If it is number 1 and you have already swapped plugs and coils then the next easiest thing to do is swap the injector for a different cylinder unless you have an injector flow tester. If its still the same have to pull the valve cover and watch the rocker arm movement cranking. If one of the rockers on number 1 is not moving as much as the others then you need a cam and lifters job. Not nice... Good luck
Can the wheel bearings do this to my front driver makes some kind of grind humming noise and now this comes up abs lights all those exact light came on my 2011 ram
Any of the speed sensors can set codes but they should be specific to each sensor. The front sensors are in the hub bearing and are affected by play in the bearing so if its noisy replace it.
I have a 2011 ram 1500, same 3 lights on dash. One wire going into connector is exposed and copper is slightly damaged, is this enough to cause lack of reading of rear wheel speed on the scanner?
@@angelanguiano4707 two things. Some codes will not self clear, need to clear with scan tool. Some ABS codes won't clear until driven a short distance. You could have a break in the wire above the fuel tank in the harness. Had one like this affecting the left rear. There is a connector under the truck inside the frame that you can separate and check continuity of the wires. Had one where I had to make a new twisted pair.
I'm just wondering how you got the old pig tails out and the new ones in? I'm having exact same problem got the old connector off and new and sensors in, but abs light still on after changing so found this video and found broken wire on driver rear sensor don't want to fumble around with rewiring new harness in either.
Fairly confident with solder and heat shrink tubes. I pulled on the wires but they're solid in the connection and at a stand still. I have mechanical inspection and need this last piece of the puzzle done so I can get my registration back up to par.
@@johnsmarc1440 so you have fixed the wiring but the ABS light is still on? You may just need to clear the code with a scan tool. If not is it still setting the same code? Did you mix up the two wires because the polarity must be correct for the sensor to work. Hope this helps you.
Very helpful video, mine is still not working, my wires were touched in the past and I redid it but not sure if I set the wires in the right position. 2 questions I need to ask-- 1. If I did the wires the other way,will it fry my new wheel speed sensor? 2. Does the white and green colors go to the same position on the harness on the left rear?(I know one side has the red clip on upside down)
I doubt it would damage the module but might damage the sensor. It's the same as the other side as well. If it's wrong try relocating the wires. If it still does not work you can try swap sensors side to side if you can get it out. Be sure that the key is off when disconnecting the sensors as that will set a code and shut down the circuit. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey i took it to autozone and it checked the abs system, engine and electrical and it came up with no issues, do I need to take it to somewhere that can do a deeper scan?
@@damiant1781 yes you likely need a more professional scan of all controllers. There are quite a few Bluetooth phone based scanners that are reasonably such as the Autel Maxiap200 and the Thinkdiag tool but you're looking at around $100 to $150 investment. Try to find someone with a more capable scanner. One that can scan all the controllers in the truck.
@@damiant1781 likely the issue is setting a code in the 4wd controls but it may also be in the instrument cluster. There are likely 11 to 14 modules in this truck...
There are literally dozens or maybe hundreds of possible causes for these lights to illuminate. The module itself is least likely but it is possible. What code/s is it setting? If the ABS module will not talk to a scan tool then powers and grounds to the module need to be confirmed. Good luck.
@RED2K2TIMMY try thinktool and their thinkdiag phone based scanner. It's pretty good for the money. Does all module code scan, all module code clear, reads data, graphs data, does most bidirectional tests even some module coding.
Everybody with this issue please listen to my comment I looked underneath my truck and sure enough the dealership had electrical tape on both of my speed sensors so before I went to work that morning I just touched them a little bit pushed and my truck work fine all the way to work so so that's where you guys need to look this guy this guy has saved a lot of people thousands of dollars but not me because I fixed everything before I found this video. Thank you so much sir🙏
My pleasure sir!
Thank you for this video, my 14' is having the same issues. In my research so far most people with this issue report taking it to the dealer and get charged $1k-$2k to replace an abs module and some other module only to have the issue pop up again. Mine is intermittent which seems consistent with loose/broken wiring.
The exact video I was looking for thank you for making this
Keep making videos love the details can tell you know what your doing
Thanks for watching.
Highly recommend finding someone with a scanner like his or like a solid edge snap on to tell you the code. Mine is also a mostly on and sometimes off problem. I’m hoping after repairing wiring and replacing a couple sensors that had an erratic performance will solve the issue.
good looking repair on that harness appreciate your videos
Thanks for the feedback.
I just had the same issue with my 2011 Ram Sport with one minor change. Only the Svc 4X4, traction control lights and Trl Brake switch was flashing a "CF" code but not the ABS light. Also, the cruise control was not working. It turned out to be the brake stop light switch at the pedal out of adjustment. The fix was to remove the brake light switch, unplug it, and then pull the small black plunger to full extension then push the plunger back into the body of the switch about halfway or enough that your brake lights are not illuminated once your brake pedal is released to the rest position.
@@Mistein764 glad you figured it out
I have a 2011 ram longhorn. I have and had same problems. My backup sensor stopped working. I found that rode grime wash wax may be cause. I cleaned them with wd40 and they went right back to working.
I replace from wheelberring assembly, learned that complete assembly with sensor was cheaper than just buying the sensor.
Light came on week later driving in rain. I tried taking them out cleaning them with wd40 they went right back to working. The traction control light took it to dealer. The price was ten times higher than quote from reputable locale guy. I also had him replace the evaporator, due to no cabin filter.( leaking freon in cab)Also had him install cabin filter kit on line for $20. He saved me 800.00 dollars on evaporator change. We used original parts.
Do your research and save much money. Always get 3 quotes and never tell other quotes or who.
Ask if they warranty their work.
Good advice. Thanks
Definitely not polarity sensitive. Voltage from abs through wheel speed sensor generates a square wave signal with duty cycle proportional to vehicle speed. Square wave signal is then sent back to abs module for interpretation.. 1 of the 2 wires is positive but the sensor itself works in either direction.
I meant the two wires have to be connected with the correct polarity as you mentioned one is power. Hook it up backwards and it won't work. I know the sensor reads speed in either direction.
My Durango 07 has same symptoms..i believe its window harness at door jam..them wires run to tipm and can be causing a short..i replaced alot of things so far..also when i drive car and get it warm..it has no start till it sits..
Have to start with a network scan of all controllers see what codes are setting
I have a ‘10 Ram 1500. Having the issue, scanner is placing the problem on the driver rear. When I do the live data graph, it’s showing it still reading speed while the three others are not moving and I switched the rear sensors to see if that was the problem. Still the same. What could it be?
@justinbegay3613 so the driver rear sensor is showing a speed signal sitting still? And you switched left to right and it's still the same? What scanner are you using? I'd try a different scan tool and if it's still the same try plugging in a used ABS module. You will likely have a vin mismatch code but see if the speed signals are normal. I'm not sure if a used ABS module can be used and reflashed to the truck though.
Philip,
Thank you for the video! I have a 2010 Ram 1500 with the same exact issues. Its been doing it for about a year now. I am trying to trade it in and I want to fix this problem as quickly and cost efficiently as possible.. could I fix this problem without going to a mechanic?
Lol that's like asking me if you can do dental work... you need a scan tool to read the codes from the ABS controller to start with. Most OBD2 code readers will only read the engine controller. Once you have the code from the computer it will suggest where the fault lies. Other than that you can visually look for broken speed sensor wires and you may get lucky. Hope this helps you.
My 2010 ram has same problem. I changed out the speed sensor and light are still on
If you replaced the sensor it's still setting tge same code then you probably have a break in the wire somewhere.
We have a 2015 1500 n this has been a problem for a year now! We've done everything possible n still have problems, well it comes and goes! We'll never buy another dodge again!
The wires are prone to physical damage especially if you drive on gravel roads. There needs to be a shield installed to protect the wire harness.
Hay bud i got a 2011 4x4 5.7 and iv replaced cam and crank sensors even cleanded my throttle body. anyway i cant get on the gas without it cutting power like it bogs down then starts gaining power then the engine light flashes and code pops up cylinder1 missfire. But if i just ease into the gas it runs kinda normal. Do u think its a cam and lifters? I really hope its not because thats gonna be a long weekend
Well if the MIL is flashing and the ECM is setting code P0301 then you have to figure out why its misfiring. try replacing the plugs, swap the coil etc to eliminate ignition first. confirm it is actually misfiring on number 1 by unplugging injectors one at a time and noting the expected change while its idling. check the injector drive, compression test etc. good luck
I forgot to mention i did put new plugs and tryed switching coils. I did take the fuel rail off one the number one side and looked at the injector/ injectors but didint test number one injector but it looked clean.. and thanks for the help i appreciated the feed back
@@justbraaapit2311 Well you need to start over again seems. First with it running try unplugging each injector one at a time to confirm the problem is actually number 1. Sometimes its not. If it is number 1 and you have already swapped plugs and coils then the next easiest thing to do is swap the injector for a different cylinder unless you have an injector flow tester. If its still the same have to pull the valve cover and watch the rocker arm movement cranking. If one of the rockers on number 1 is not moving as much as the others then you need a cam and lifters job. Not nice... Good luck
Alright ill try that and get back with you if i need more help. Like i said thanks for the help
Can the wheel bearings do this to my front driver makes some kind of grind humming noise and now this comes up abs lights all those exact light came on my 2011 ram
Any of the speed sensors can set codes but they should be specific to each sensor. The front sensors are in the hub bearing and are affected by play in the bearing so if its noisy replace it.
Thanks I will replace the wheel bearings I have both front left n right bearings.
I have a 2011 ram 1500, same 3 lights on dash. One wire going into connector is exposed and copper is slightly damaged, is this enough to cause lack of reading of rear wheel speed on the scanner?
It could be especially if salt water shorts it out.
When you fixed the wheel speed sensor did it fix the 4wd and the abs and traction control lights?
Yes it did.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you! I'll give it a try before going to a dealership. I replaced the actuator yesterday and it didnt fix it.
I have a 2015 6.7
Same lights
Scanner told me right wheel sensor...replaced but lights stayed on..any info ?
@@angelanguiano4707 two things. Some codes will not self clear, need to clear with scan tool. Some ABS codes won't clear until driven a short distance. You could have a break in the wire above the fuel tank in the harness. Had one like this affecting the left rear. There is a connector under the truck inside the frame that you can separate and check continuity of the wires. Had one where I had to make a new twisted pair.
Check out this truck...th-cam.com/video/yPlxOGWIps0/w-d-xo.html
I'm just wondering how you got the old pig tails out and the new ones in? I'm having exact same problem got the old connector off and new and sensors in, but abs light still on after changing so found this video and found broken wire on driver rear sensor don't want to fumble around with rewiring new harness in either.
Fairly confident with solder and heat shrink tubes. I pulled on the wires but they're solid in the connection and at a stand still. I have mechanical inspection and need this last piece of the puzzle done so I can get my registration back up to par.
@@johnsmarc1440 so you have fixed the wiring but the ABS light is still on? You may just need to clear the code with a scan tool. If not is it still setting the same code? Did you mix up the two wires because the polarity must be correct for the sensor to work. Hope this helps you.
Very helpful video, mine is still not working, my wires were touched in the past and I redid it but not sure if I set the wires in the right position. 2 questions I need to ask--
1. If I did the wires the other way,will it fry my new wheel speed sensor?
2. Does the white and green colors go to the same position on the harness on the left rear?(I know one side has the red clip on upside down)
I doubt it would damage the module but might damage the sensor. It's the same as the other side as well. If it's wrong try relocating the wires. If it still does not work you can try swap sensors side to side if you can get it out. Be sure that the key is off when disconnecting the sensors as that will set a code and shut down the circuit. Good luck.
Okay I will try that, again thank you for the helpful advice, this has been bugging me for days
My doing same thing. It turned out right rear speed ring (tone ring)
What was wrong with the tone ring?
I have the same thing with the abs, service 4wd, and tracking control but I don't get any codes and after a short time driving the issue goes away.
How are you scanning for codes? What scanner are you using and are you scanning the ABS controller. Need to scan all controllers.
@@PhillipBailey i took it to autozone and it checked the abs system, engine and electrical and it came up with no issues, do I need to take it to somewhere that can do a deeper scan?
@@damiant1781 yes you likely need a more professional scan of all controllers. There are quite a few Bluetooth phone based scanners that are reasonably such as the Autel Maxiap200 and the Thinkdiag tool but you're looking at around $100 to $150 investment. Try to find someone with a more capable scanner. One that can scan all the controllers in the truck.
@@damiant1781 likely the issue is setting a code in the 4wd controls but it may also be in the instrument cluster. There are likely 11 to 14 modules in this truck...
My 2020 is having the same issue
Into the dealer it goes.
What kind of scan tool are you using?
Im using a Snap On Verus Edge Tablet
I have same problem whit my ram 2011 3 lights on Abs 4x4 they told me I have to replace abs module
There are literally dozens or maybe hundreds of possible causes for these lights to illuminate. The module itself is least likely but it is possible. What code/s is it setting? If the ABS module will not talk to a scan tool then powers and grounds to the module need to be confirmed. Good luck.
So. A abs sensor will throw service 4x4 codes ?
Absolutely since the automatic 4x4 system needs wheel speed sensor signals to function.
@@PhillipBailey thank you I believe I ripped mine on a cam and lifter swap I just did. Would you recommend a scanner for home use I could buy?
@RED2K2TIMMY try thinktool and their thinkdiag phone based scanner. It's pretty good for the money. Does all module code scan, all module code clear, reads data, graphs data, does most bidirectional tests even some module coding.
@@RED2K2TIMMY here's me using a thinkdiag phone based scan tool on an F150 Lightning
th-cam.com/video/cKaa4qla4Hc/w-d-xo.html
This has to be it!
Very good video
LOAD TEST THE BATT
Why?